Courses are over, your driver's license is in your hands, and you still don't know how to drive. You were taught to get under way and change gears, accelerate and brake, but inside there is a vague feeling that this is not all. You hesitate to go out on the road during the day when there is traffic. You have no confidence in the safety of your own movement. How to be? Where to study? And what should you do next to master the art of driving? How to learn to drive a car?

Driving training: with an instructor or alone

The best training is with an instructor in a specially equipped machine with double pedals. This is the safest way to learn to drive from scratch. However, this training does not always work productively. Often, driving instructors, worried about their own car, actively use their pedals. By switching them instead of the student, they deprive him of the opportunity to make a mistake and gain the necessary experience. It is difficult to learn how to drive a car from such an instructor.

The second training option is with a good instructor without duplicate pedals. Of course, there is some danger in such a lesson. On the other hand, you realize that you are really driving. And think differently. After all, the instructor in the next seat can only give advice or suggest something that you have not noticed. But it cannot press the brake, gearshift or gas pedal for you.

This type of training turns out to be much more productive.

You can find detailed information on what and what nuances to pay close attention to in the article of our author.

After two or three weeks of such training, a person sits on the steering wheel independently and moves around the city quite well. Of course, if during this time he really learns, and not just thinks about how difficult or how quickly it is to learn to drive through the city streets.

Sometimes you have to finish your studies yourself. Drive a car to vacant lots or supermarket sites, move along the streets in the early morning, when there are few cars. In this case, you should rely only on yourself. And actively use other people's advice, experience, instructions, descriptions.

What tips can a beginner inexperienced driver take on board?

These tips will help those novice drivers who have some training, have learned to drive, but have no experience. They should drive at a reduced speed in the far right lane, avoiding difficult intersections, multi-lane roads and rush hour traffic. It is also worth excluding driving a car in the dark. At least until you have experience and confidence.

So what tips will help aspiring car enthusiasts get on the road?

1. The obligatory presence of the sign "Novice driver" on the rear window is information for other drivers about your inexperience. warns them that you cannot get off the side road quickly, that your car may stall in front of traffic lights or roll back too much when starting on a slope. Do not be shy about this letter, and even vice versa - make it large and visible.
2. For female drivers - the sign "shoe". It is also information for other drivers, especially male “racers”. Psychologists confirm the fact that men and women have different thinking. Male logic does not correspond to female logic. Therefore, it is worth hanging a shoe sign on the car for a more condescending attitude. Note: the worst thing for the "racers" is the combination of signs "Novice driver" + "shoe". Surrounding drivers will be especially careful with such a car.
3. Calmness and low speed are the main means of safety in traffic situations. At first, you will have many difficult intersections. Each exit to the main one will seem difficult. Remember - you must always be sure of traffic safety. Stop in front of the main road, assess the situation. Skip as many cars as you see fit. And only after - go to the roadway.
4. If they honk you from behind and demand to leave faster, do not follow the lead. Listen only to your own assessment. If an experienced driver gets to the intersection quickly, then you cannot yet assess the situation with lightning speed. So trust your yardstick. Note: if the driver from behind continues to honk loudly, turn on the emergency light and go through the intersection at your own pace. And more - hang on the car one of the catchphrases, like "Don't push the signal, remember how you started yourself." This will help reduce the fervor of the "rider".
5. Feel free to twist your head. Especially when you give back. When reversing, it is better to navigate not by the mirrors, but to turn half-turn and look into the rear window. When changing lanes and other maneuvers, be sure to look in both mirrors, quickly turning your head. A glance without turning your head, out of the corner of your eye, does not always allow you to fully see the road.
6. The UDD rule, or “give way to the fool,” on the roadway can be called a golden remedy. Even if you are driving on a main road, evaluate the movement of drivers on secondary adjacent roads. They don't always follow the rules. If the car clearly does not stop on a secondary road, skip it. It's cheaper for yourself.
7. Issue CASCO and OSAGO. These insurances will protect you from the material costs of car repairs. CASCO - protection for your car. With this insurance, you will be paid to repair your car, in any case, regardless of the culpability of the accident. OSAGO - protection for the second car, if it turns out that you have violated the rules and are the culprit of an accident. God saves man, who save himself.
8. Install an Internet traffic congestion service and use its messages. Avoid driving on roads showing traffic jams. Traffic in heavy traffic is not for you yet. So is haste. Your credo is speed and Olympic calmness.

What else to add? At the beginning of your independent driving, choose 1 - 2 routes around the city. Let these be the most frequent commutes - to work, to school, or to visit your parents. And roll them in. Memorize intersections, signs at intersections, holes, rainstorms. And only after having mastered the first routes, start driving more freely on other streets.

And one more thing: driving a car requires concentration. You need to see everything: pedestrians on roads and roadsides, cars in your and oncoming lane, signs along the roads and traffic lights at intersections. Concentration creates tension, which in turn causes fatigue. After the first independent trips, I often want to sleep. This is the result of mental stress.

To prevent the occurrence of a traffic accident, you need to know while driving.

Over time, you will learn to assess the traffic situation without undue stress. Then you will no longer be tired of driving. There will be ease and pleasure of driving a car. This will become possible after several thousand kilometers.

Attention: girl driver

An experienced driver will drive well regardless of gender or age. After 10 years of driving, women and men are equally at home with the car. But during the period of study, the girls have more fears, uncertainties, questions about how to learn how to drive a car.

Among the students of the courses, as a rule, from one third to half of the class are ladies. The following tips will help them learn to drive like men.

1. In order not to be afraid of the steering wheel, you have to drive. Experience is an invaluable gift that money cannot buy. Therefore, daily business trips, shopping is the key to successful mastering of driving skills.
2. It is not necessary to understand the internal structure of the car. But be sure to regularly show it at the service station. This will reduce the likelihood of breakdowns on the road.
3. When driving a car, you have to think about the road. While driving, it is necessary to leave thoughts of family and school, cooking dinner and lunch. Focusing your attention will help you avoid road accidents.
4. During the first months of driving, do not wear high heels. It is better to drive the car with shoes with a flat platform. And if you really want to leave the house on stiletto heels - change your shoes in the cabin, sitting behind the wheel.
5. In the parking lot - do not hesitate to ask for help. However, one must be sure that the person adequately estimates the size of the parking space and the size of the car. Ideally, if it is a paid parking worker who is responsible for the safety of cars. He is at least responsible and interested in safety.
6. Think concretely and logically. Less emotion, more analysis of facts and clear action.

For lovely ladies, and not only, it will be useful to know how to do it right. A qualified specialist tells about this.

Despite the fact that men consider women to be illogical, there are many good drivers among the latter. Although the statistics confirm the fact that women drivers are more likely to get into accidents.

After the first 2 - 3 thousand kilometers, the recent beginner develops real stable riding skills. And after 5-6 thousand confidence appears. Sometimes it develops into self-confidence, a desire to be on a par with experienced drivers. The question is not how to learn to drive, but how to be on a par with everyone. Smartly rebuild, cut and drive at prohibitive speeds. This euphoria is dangerous and often leads to traffic accidents.

What advice is it worth remembering for a recent newbie who graduated from a driving school 3-4 months ago and is already confident in his own professionalism? Let's consider them.

1. The main criterion for professionalism is the ability to stop the car on any road, at different speeds for a limited braking distance. Usually, there are no overclocking problems while driving. Problems and accidents occur during braking when the driver is unable to keep up with the speed of the vehicle. Therefore, despite the experience gained and the example of other drivers, observe the speed limit. Remember that 86% of accidents involve overspeeding. With a permitted high-speed mode, an accident could not have happened.
2. Distance is another indicator of driving professionalism. Only the inexperienced or novice will keep close to the vehicle ahead. An experienced driver will always suspect the incompetence of others. And therefore - be prepared for stupidity on their part.
3. Remember to look in the mirrors every 10 to 15 seconds. Even if you are not changing lanes or passing an intersection, you are driving on a flat road.
4. Brake as soon as you see a danger, unexpected obstacle or brake lights on the vehicle ahead. Slow down as soon as there are reasons to do so. Even seconds of delay can cost someone their lives.
5. Make it a rule to inspect tires every month, assess the condition of the treads, show the car to the technician at the service station to assess the brakes and chassis. The cost of malfunctioning your vehicle can be a human life. Do not buy used tires. Only use new tires with good tread on your wheels.
6. Listen to the sounds of your engine and chassis. When unconventional sounds appear, new ones that you have not heard before, show the car to the technician. Some mechanism in it began to break down. Likewise, always look at the ground or asphalt under the car after parking. If there are oil stains or other leaks - contact the service station. The serviceability of a car is your safety and the lives of people around you.

And one more thing: the most dangerous thought for an experienced beginner is the thought "how well I can drive a car." It is after her that unpleasant incidents often occur. If only you heard something similar inside yourself, be very careful, slow down, look around, correlate the movement of your car and neighboring cars.

Tips for the Experienced: Rules That Keep You Life

After two years of driving, the driver is no longer a beginner. From this time on, the speed limits (70 km per hour) are removed from it and the letter "U" disappears from the car glass. If a person has actually driven a car for two years, he is an experienced driver with 2 years of driving experience. If the car was parked more in the garage, and trips were rare, then the beginner's experience is not enough, and his level of driving is "Apprentice".

Even an experienced driver who drives a car with confidence must be attentive and control the speed. There are a number of tips that GAI inspectors recommend for every driver to take. They allow you to prevent accidents.

1. If you are planning to turn left and are standing in the leftmost lane in front of a traffic light, keep your wheels straight. This will allow you to stay in your lane and not fly into the oncoming lane if someone from behind enters your car.
2. Never drive through an intersection at a yellow light. The worst and most unpleasant collisions take place at yellow traffic lights. When some cars still stop moving. Others are already starting it. These accidents are often fatal. If only you have airbags in your car.
3. To avoid skidding when cornering, slow down before cornering. On an arc of a turn, drive with a small set of speed - this will prevent skidding and hitting the oncoming lane.
4. If an oncoming car rushes towards you, slow down and turn to the side. In any case, a side impact is better than a frontal impact. And a ditch at the edge of the road is better than an oncoming collision.

And finally, the most important and commonplace - do not exceed the speed. The speed limits on the roads are designed for the general safety of you and the people around you.

Emergency maneuverability training

In addition to the usual driving courses, there are so-called "refresher courses" or "extreme emergency driving courses". They teach experienced drivers how to learn to drive a car safely in all weather conditions.

How to behave in a difficult traffic situation, when a child, an animal runs into the lane, or a car rushes towards you? Some of these courses can be done on your own machine. This will require an empty area or a wide deserted road. What to do?

1. Drive onto an empty area (road), accelerate to 40 km per hour and brake quite sharply. See how the car behaves during emergency braking and how long the braking distance is. After that, do the same at speeds of 50, 60, 70, 80 km per hour. Measure the distance required for emergency braking at various speeds. Do the same after the rain, on a wet, empty road. These exercises will teach you how to quickly stop the car, visually remember the distance required to stop completely on a wet road.
2. Obstacle Avoidance Training - Put down a crumpled plastic bottle, start moving towards it, accelerate and dodge around it sharply. Do this at low speed first. Gradually - increase your speed and learn how to avoid unexpected obstacles at 60, 70 and 80 km per hour.
3. A similar exercise can be done if you have an assistant. He should roll out old tires under your wheels, while you move along the road. In this case, the wheel imitates an unexpected obstacle or a person who appears on the road in the wrong place.
4. Classes on slippery surfaces - for them you will need a snow-covered or ice-covered area. It is necessary to accelerate and brake in order to work out the reaction when skidding to automatism. Automatic reactions are the foundation of your driving safety. In difficult road situations, seconds are decisive. There is no time to think and weigh. Note: in cases of skidding, the driver's actions are determined by the car's drive. If the driving wheels are front, then you need to turn the steering wheel towards the skid and smoothly accelerate. If the driving wheels are rear, then you need to turn the steering wheel in the direction opposite to the skid and do not put pressure on the gas.

Completely independent training from scratch is possible in rare cases, if a person is a driver from God. This is possible if a person has watched the driver work from childhood. Therefore, children of drivers who have absorbed the skill, if not with mother's milk, then with the words of their father, can learn to drive a car without the help of an instructor. Through frequent observation, they memorized foot and pedal movements, steering wheel movements, wheel and vehicle movements.

Self-driving training is the exception rather than the rule. It is still better and safer to study with an instructor. It is necessary to study. And the more competent drivers there are on the roads, the fewer accidents and other unpleasant traffic accidents will be.

(12 estimates, average: 5,00 out of 5)

An article on how to use a manual transmission correctly so that the device does not fail are important nuances of operating a manual transmission. At the end of the article - an interesting video on the topic.

The content of the article:

Despite the fact that the car is considered to be a single mechanism, all its components can be conventionally divided into two large groups: entourage and base.

The conditional main class includes all mechanisms, components and assemblies that allow the car to drive. The entourage includes those components that are created for the comfort of the driver. And if there is no proper operation of the main systems that provide good speed, then comfort becomes simply unnecessary. Is it only for those connoisseurs of cars who purchase an "iron horse", put it, like a ship, on "eternal joke" and admire the beautiful shapes and perfectly working air conditioning in the cabin.

One of the main components of the car is the transmission, on the correct operation of which it depends whether the car will drive on the road, twitch on the road or stand on the same road. How not to kill the manual transmission with your own hands and in a short time?

Modern cars with manual transmission are equipped with synchronization system, which distinguishes them from rare cars, where there was a "neutral". The work of the system is to equalize the angular speeds of the gears until they mesh. Until the moment, until the alignment of the speeds of the two gears, it is impossible to engage the required gear. But nothing is impossible for our drivers.

This condition of the synchronizer operation is noticeable to every driver; resistance is felt on the lever for some time. This is not a defect in the transmission, it is a condition for the correct operation of the device. Novice drivers push through mechanical resistance and ... break off the teeth on the gears. This principle of work of modern "mechanics" just needs to be remembered.

What else should the driver know so that the gearbox does not "fly away" during the year?

Many drivers turn into blondes when, after many years of operating a car with an automatic transmission, they switch to "mechanics". They just forget to squeeze the clutch when shifting the lever. The result is always the same - the crackle and crunch of a broken gear.

In the best case, the gears "lick", the car can still drive well for some time, but after a few weeks the gearbox fails. To make it easier for a beginner to remember and not get confused in the pedals - the left foot is always near the clutch pedal, the right foot only presses not the brake or gas pedal.

If you constantly move away from high speeds, the clutch disc burns out, then the flywheel and the clutch basket begin to collapse, the box begins to knock and fails.

The reason why drivers do not start properly is often due to inattentive training at the driving school. Newbies get used to squeezing out the clutch at idle, adding throttle and dropping the clutch pedal. A jerk occurs, and in 90% of cases the car stalls. Future drivers get used to driving revs to the maximum and getting under way without delay.

The following option would be correct:

• Bring the revs up to 1200 - 1500, while the gas pedal goes off a third of its stroke.
• Release the clutch smoothly while increasing throttle.

This will prevent a drop in rpm, save discs and save the gearbox.

A typical mistake of drivers, which is considered almost a classic of the genre. During a sharp turn at speed, when the driver realizes that he may not fit into the corner of the turn, he begins to try to engage the reverse speed without completing a full stop. The transmission responds to such barbaric movements of the driver with an unambiguous nasty grinding of lubricated gear teeth.

If you practice these cornering approaches frequently, reverse gear will soon fail. This threatens that the box will go for overhaul.

A manual transmission cannot offer the driver such comfort as an automatic transmission, where gear shifting depends on the solution of the electronic unit. But only the manual transmission gives the driver full control over the control. All race cars, where the human factor plays a major role, are equipped only with manual transmissions, and they are unlikely to ever be replaced by an automatic transmission.

But despite the fact that the "mechanics" allows the driver to decide for himself what speed to engage, the clutch pedal does not need to be controlled for a long time. We are talking about the habit of drivers to keep the clutch pedal recessed for more than 3-5 seconds. This often happens at traffic lights, in traffic jams.

When the car is on a slope, new drivers feel that by squeezing the clutch all the way, they have more control over the car. These habits will lead to rapid wear of the mechanical box parts. Drivers should get used to braking and holding the car on an incline with the brake pedal.

Rapid wear of the release bearing and clutch disc occurs. The first sign that a bearing is worn out is the unpleasant hum of the part. There is a risk that it will fall apart on the move. To replace it, you need to remove the gearbox and carry out expensive repairs.

To increase the service life of the gearbox and clutch system, you need to develop the habit of switching the gearbox lever to neutral at any short stops of the car - only in this case you can not release the pedal. In this position, the release bearing does not press on the clutch basket.

During the first months of driving, drivers show the same mistake: driving at low revs with a high gear engaged. This can become a habit, and the driver will shift into gear above third at speeds up to 50 km. The box is under heavy strain trying to synchronize uncharacteristic parameters.

A second similar mistake, which is already common for more experienced drivers, is downshifting at high speeds. This is a much more dangerous mistake than driving at low speed in high gear.

Each gear has a maximum speed - if you turn on a low speed, for example 2nd, at a wheel speed corresponding to 4th gear, emergency engine braking will occur. As a result, not only the gearbox may fail, but also the RGM belt may fly off the teeth (or break). This is always a major renovation.

The danger of improper downshifting is not only a failure of the manual transmission. Such actions can lead to uncontrollability of the car on a slippery road. In winter, about 20% of all accidents occur precisely because of this gear change: Speed. Engine braking. Skid. Ditch.

Professional drivers almost always keep their right hand on the gear lever, but if you look closely, they do not press on the knob or use the handle as an armrest. Beginners grab the handle tightly and press hard on it.

There is a human reflex in case of any loss of balance (on a slippery road, after a push, when you stumbled or when turning a car) to grab onto everything that is nearby in order to hold on. When driving, the gearshift lever should oscillate slightly erratically in response to uneven road surfaces.

When a beginner unconsciously uses a lever as a means of restraint, a gradual loosening of the box occurs. The synchronizer system loses the necessary density, the handle dangles in the box, and this is always an expensive repair, because you have to diagnose the entire transmission and change almost all the gears.

In order for not only the manual transmission to serve for a long time, but also all the power units of the car to work with maximum efficiency, drivers need to constantly monitor the oil level and completely change it once a year. Driving on constant topping up is unacceptable. The nodes are polluted, karst layers are formed and the box can fail due to elementary pollution.

In order for a manual transmission to serve its maximum service life without major repairs, it is required to follow simple rules for driving. But this only comes with experience.

Video on how to properly change gears on the "mechanics":

M.A. Henningson.
Tutorial for driving

To readers

Learning to drive a car is not as difficult as it might seem at first. The professional level of the driver is very different. As in any other business, you can be a master in driving, or you can just be a driver. But a prerequisite for everyone who decided to travel by car is to learn how to drive safely and reliably. It must always be remembered that the car is a source of increased danger, and therefore it is necessary to take training very seriously.
The main purpose of this tutorial is to help future drivers acquire driving skills. These skills can be independently practiced at any site that is safe for yourself and those around you. As for driving a car on the road, here you will need an assistant with at least three years of driving experience. The self-study guide provides recommendations for driving a car in various conditions. His task is to minimize the role of your volunteer driver-assistant, that is, only to hedge your actions on the road.
It is recommended to set aside enough time for classes so that it is not a burden for you, but a pleasure, but no more than two hours at a time. Otherwise, you will get tired.
The last wish is addressed to not very decisive people. Listen to the skeptics who can question your ability to drive, discourage learning, and destroy your faith in yourself. Let's give a typical example. Suppose one of the familiar drivers suggested that you try to learn how to drive his car. After explaining how and what to do, you do "everything is wrong." As a result, you hear a categorical conclusion: "You are not given to drive a car, you should not even start." Do not attach any importance to this. After all, it is known that you can be a good driver, but not every driver is able to teach another person to drive. The old saying is true: "There are no bad students - there are bad teachers."

Section I. PRIMARY TRAINING

1. A quick idea of \u200b\u200bthe car you are going to drive

Figure: 1. The simplest kinematic diagram of a classic car

1 - engine
2 - clutch
3 - checkpoint
4 - cardan transmission
5 - the main transfer
6 - differential
7 - semi-axis

ENGINE (fig. 2) drives the vehicle

Figure: 2. Engine

1 - cylinder block
2 - piston
3 - connecting rod
4 - crankshaft
5 - flywheel
6 - inlet and outlet valves

CLUTCH (Fig. 3) provides the transfer of torque by means of friction force from the engine to the driving wheels, serves for short-term separation of the engine from the driving wheels and their smooth connection.

Figure: 3. Clutch

1 - engine flywheel
2 - driven friction disc
3 - the leading pressure disk
4 - disc spring
5 - release bearing
6 - working cylinder
7 - hydraulic line
8 - the main cylinder
9 - clutch pedal

Checkpoint (gearbox) serves to convert the torque in magnitude (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th gear), change the direction of travel (reverse gear) and long-term separation of the engine from the driving wheels (neutral gear).
In the diagram shown in Fig. 4 shows the principle of converting torque in one of the gears.

Figure: 4. Checkpoint

1 - driving (primary) shaft
2 - intermediate shaft
3 - driven (secondary) shaft
4, 5, 6, 7 - constant mesh gears
8 - synchronizer hub
9 - toothed (connecting) coupling
10 - gearshift lever

DRIVE GEAR (fig. 5) serves to transmit torque at a variable angle.

Figure: 5. Cardan transmission

1 - cardan joint
2 - cardan shaft

MAIN GEAR (fig. 6) serves to transmit torque at right angles and increase it.

Figure: 6. Main gear

1 - a driving gear
2 - driven gear

DIFFERENTIAL (fig. 7) serves for the possibility of rotation of the driving wheels with different angular speeds (when cornering).

Figure: 7. Differential

1 - half-axle gear
2 - satellite
3 - semi-axis

2. Preparation of the driver's workplace

Any car is necessarily equipped with an adjusting device for the driver's seat (longitudinal seat movement and backrest tilt) and rear-view mirrors (salon and side).
So, we get into the car and adjust the driver's seat "for ourselves." When adjusting, one must proceed from the following: the legs should be free to reach the pedals, and the bend of the legs in the knees should be small for any position of the pedals (Fig. 8). It is easy to feel with your left foot operating the clutch pedal. To do this, put your foot on the pedal without pressing it. If you have a tiny foot and the heel does not reach the floor, it's okay - the leg will work on weight.

Figure: 8
In this position, the leg should not be uncomfortable. Then the clutch pedal is fully depressed (all the way), without the leg stretching. A slight bend in the knee remains. We achieve this by longitudinal movement of the seat.

Fig. 9
The backrest tilt is adjustable so that your hands are comfortable on the steering wheel. The correct position of the hands on the wheel rim is shown in fig. nine.

Figure: ten
The arms should also be slightly bent at the elbows (fig. 10).
The next thing to look out for is the rear view. The rear-view mirrors are adjusted so that the rear window of the car is maximally visible in the salon mirror, and the side of the car is tangentially visible in the side mirror.

3. Familiarity with vehicle controls

Main controls:
* steering wheel
* clutch pedal
* brake pedal
* accelerator pedal
* gear control lever (gear shifting)
* parking brake lever ("handbrake").

The governing bodies also include:
* direction indicator
* side light switch
* headlight switch
* wiper switch
* ignition switch (lock).

Now let's get acquainted with each control body separately.
WHEEL... We already know how to properly hold the steering wheel. In the case shown in Fig. 9 hand positions have the greatest freedom of control, are ready for any quick maneuver and do not get tired, as their weight lies on the steering wheel. The steering wheel should be held with two hands, avoid one-handed operation. You should take your hand off the steering wheel only when necessary, for example, when intercepting the steering wheel when cornering, when changing gears, turning on the windshield wipers on the move, etc. Fancy handling with one hand can lead to trouble: when a car wheel hits an obstacle or when puncture the steering wheel can not be held with one hand.
CLUTCH PEDAL... Driven by the left foot. When the pedal is released, the discs in the clutch are closed, with the engine running and the gear engaged, torque is transmitted from the engine to the drive wheels through the clutch. When the pedal is depressed, the discs are open and there is no connection between the engine and the drive wheels. At this moment, we can easily turn on the desired gear.

Figure: eleven
The clutch pedal works as follows. The pedal is squeezed out completely (to the stop) and quickly enough. The clutch pedal is released smoothly, as if in two stages (fig. 11).
First step - when the pedal is released from position I to position II, the gaps between the clutch discs are selected. This movement is done quickly enough. Distance and is approximately 1 / 3-1 / 2 of the full pedal travel and depends on the correct clutch adjustment.
Second phase - when the pedal is released from position II to position III, the clutch discs are pressed against each other. Torque is being transmitted. This movement is done smoothly with a slight delay.
BRAKE PEDAL... Controlled by the right foot. Unlike the clutch pedal, the brake pedal cannot be fully depressed to the floor. We will feel the stop of the pedal in an intermediate position, when the brake pads rest against the brake drums or discs. The force of pressing the brake pedal determines the braking efficiency. The lower the vehicle speed, the less effort must be applied to the brake pedal. Otherwise, there will be an unpleasant "nod" of the car.
ACCELERATOR PEDAL... It is operated in the same way as the brake pedal - with the right foot. The right leg can handle two pedals quite well. We need either movement (accelerator) or deceleration (brake). The accelerator pedal has a very small range. The operating mode is smooth. When the engine is running, pressing the pedal will respond by increasing the speed.
GEAR LEVER... Controlled by the right hand. The lever is set by the driver in a position corresponding to a particular gear. In the neutral position (no gear engaged), the lever has a fairly tangible freedom of movement in the lateral direction. With the lateral movement of the lever, we choose which gear to include. The gear is engaged by longitudinal movement of the lever forward or backward.

Figure: 12
For a 4-speed gearbox, the scheme shown in fig. 12. For your own car, the gear shift pattern is indicated in the car's operating instructions.
PARKING BRAKE LEVER... Controlled by the right hand. When the vehicle is moving, the lever must be fully lowered down, which corresponds to the released state of the rear wheels. The parking brake is equipped with a ratchet device that holds the lever in the braked position (pulled up). When the lever is tightened, characteristic clicks of the ratchet device are heard (there should be 3-4 of them). To release (release) the lever, a button is provided at its front end. To make the button easier to press, pull the lever up, then press the button and lower the lever down.

4. Testing controls with the engine off

Having familiarized ourselves with the controls of the car, let's proceed to the exercises for working out the controls. So,
* sit comfortably and freely
* the view from the car is good both in front and behind
* hands rest comfortably and correctly on the steering wheel
* feet freely reach the pedals.
We train the left leg. We squeeze the clutch pedal quickly and all the way to the floor. We release it quickly enough by 1/3 of the stroke and then smoothly and slowly until it is completely released.
Let's do this exercise several times: let the leg get used to the elasticity of the pedal.
We train the right leg. While the engine is not running, we will not press the accelerator pedal. The right foot is above the accelerator pedal, lightly touching it. Place your foot on the brake pedal and press down on it. To coordinate the right leg, we will do this exercise several times with different pressures on the brake pedal.
We train to include transfers. Depress the clutch pedal. In this case, the right foot should be above the accelerator pedal, without pressing it. Calmly and clearly move the lever to the 1st gear position. Next, with the clutch pedal depressed, we will do the gear changes sequentially in ascending order and in any order.
Remember: the mechanism loves clarity and smoothness.
Recommendation. For ease of engaging second gear from first, it is not necessary to move the lever to neutral. Slightly pressing it to you (to the left along the way), move it all the way back.
In doing these exercises, you inevitably looked at the controls of the car. Now do the same without looking at the controls, get used to them. This will help you later.

5. Starting the engine

After making sure that the car is on the parking brake, depress the clutch pedal and set the gear lever to neutral (or make sure it is in this position). The fact is that the included gear with the engine off is sometimes used to hold the car in place (instead of the "handbrake"). In this case, if we try to start the engine without disengaging the gear or squeezing the clutch, the following will happen: when the starter is turned on, namely we start the engine, the car will make a leap forward. This is fraught with trouble. After making sure that the gearshift lever is in the neutral position, turn the ignition key (Fig. 13) clockwise until the starter is activated. As soon as the engine starts, the ignition key must be released immediately.

Figure: thirteen
Key positions:
I - the ignition is off, you can turn on the dimensions and headlights
Oh - everything is disabled
II - ignition is on
III - starting position (spring loaded)

Recommendation.If you are not sure if the gear is in neutral, depress the clutch and start the engine in this position. When the engine is running, do not drop the clutch pedal, but slowly try to release it. If the vehicle jerks, immediately depress the clutch pedal and disengage. And in order to avoid any accidents, before starting the engine, check whether the "handbrake" is tightened. This precaution will prevent the vehicle from moving if the gear is engaged. The engine will then simply stall.
You should be aware that a rich fuel mixture is required for a reliable cold start. In the case of an injection engine or a carburetor engine with an automatic air damper control, the composition of the mixture is automatically adjusted when starting. In a car with a conventional carburetor, to start a cold engine, a manual air damper is provided, which must be closed to ensure a rich mixture composition at the time of start. This is achieved by extending the control knob. Pulling out the choke knob, start the cold engine, as discussed above. After a few seconds of operation, the engine speed will begin to increase as it warms up. In this case, it is useful to correct the rpm (by ear) by the position of the control knob, i.e., slightly recessed the knob, to achieve stable but low rpm (about 1500 rpm).
When starting a warm engine, the air damper should be fully open (the handle is recessed) to avoid over-enrichment of the mixture and "throwing" spark plugs.

6. Starting off, driving in a straight line, braking and stopping

Up to this point, we have been self-taught in our car at its parking lot. Driving off the vehicle requires compliance with certain safety conditions. To acquire the initial driving skills, you need to choose any site free of people, cars, etc. If this site has a size of at least 30x30m, this will be enough for a start. Of course, the car must be driven to this site by the driver.
Before trying to move the car from a place, you need to clearly understand how to stop it. To stop the car, do the following: the left foot quickly squeezes the clutch pedal, the right foot acts on the brake pedal (the degree of depression is determined by the need). At the same time, the released clutch excludes further forced movement of the car by the engine. The brake pedal will naturally stop the vehicle from moving.
It is psychologically important to convince yourself that you know how to respond to an out-of-control process. If something is not clear, something is wrong - the clutch pedal is "on the floor", the brake pedal is pressed. After that, you must turn off the transmission.
So, your car is parked on the site. And in such a way that there is a lot of free space in front of him. After making sure that the car is in neutral with the handbrake tightened, we start the engine.

Exercise 1. Practicing the clutch engagement moment

The right foot is above the accelerator. Depress the clutch pedal, engage 1st gear. Keeping the clutch squeezed out, remove the car from the "handbrake". The car is ready for the exercise.
In order not to miss the moment when the clutch engages, you begin to release the clutch pedal very slowly, observing the behavior of the car. You will feel the moment of clutch engagement by the engine speed. When the clutch is triggered, the engine will be loaded, its speed will drop (decrease).
The left foot must memorize this trigger position.
As soon as you feel that the engine has responded by decreasing the rpm, you do not need to release the clutch pedal further (in this exercise). After some delay, depress the pedal "to the floor" again and disengage the gear.
If the engine slows down, but does not stall, the exercise goal is achieved. If the engine stalls, remember to turn off the transmission before restarting it.
Repeat this exercise several times.

Exercise 2. Starting a car from a place

To move a car from a place, the engine needs a certain power, which depends on its speed.
At idle speed, at which the engine runs without load when the accelerator pedal is released, its power is minimal. At the moment of starting the car, the engine is loaded, overcoming the rolling resistance of the car, and so that it does not stop, it is necessary to add revolutions to it by slightly pressing the accelerator pedal.
To begin with, let's try to simply add momentum, i.e. work with your right foot only. Step on the accelerator pedal very carefully. The engine without load will be responsive. We control the turnover by ear.
Now let's start doing the exercise. The preparatory steps are the same as in Exercise 1:
* squeeze the clutch pedal;
* turn on the 1st gear;
* letting go of the clutch pedal, we find the actuation position (engine speed dropped slightly).
Then, after adding revolutions with the accelerator pedal, release the clutch pedal literally 1-2 mm, keeping the left leg in tension. This will cause the vehicle to move forward. At the moment the car starts moving, we slightly release the accelerator pedal (with a stable movement, the engine does not need power anymore), and completely release the clutch.
Having rolled the car in a straight line for several meters, we squeeze the clutch and brake with our right foot. After stopping the car, immediately turn off the transmission.
If the car “nodded” while braking, then the brake pedal was pressed too hard.
Take your time to try again, calmly analyze your actions.

1. When starting off, the car jerked - the clutch was released too sharply
2. Engine stalled - when the clutch was released, the revolutions were insufficient
3. Engine “roars” - rpm is too high and added before the clutch engages, ie. without load
After analyzing your actions, try again, but do not forget to make sure there is a lot of space in front of the car. Lack of space can scare you and cause a mistake when starting to move.
In case there is not enough space in front of the car, this exercise is performed while driving backward. Do not be intimidated by reversing. You are required to smoothly move the car without interfering with the trajectory of its movement, i.e. the same as you just did when moving forward.
When driving backward, sit so that it is comfortable and clearly visible where the car is moving. To do this, turn around on the seat half a turn to the right. We put our left hand on the rim of the steering wheel from the top in the center, we throw our right hand over the back of our seat, leaning freely on it. We make sure that we can clearly see through the rear window of the car all the space behind it. In this position, without looking at the pedals, we will try to squeeze the clutch and release it smoothly (not including the gear). With the right foot, slightly add revolutions (by ear). Imagining the car in reverse motion, we simulate its stopping: we squeeze the clutch and press the brake. If it worked out, then you did everything right.
Getting started with the exercise... We squeeze out the clutch and put into reverse gear. Keeping the clutch squeezed out, we sit comfortably. The car and we are ready to move. We do the rest the same way, paying attention to footwork and engine speed.
We emphasize once again that before starting the movement, you must remember about your further actions, i.e. clearly understand what needs to be done to stop the car.
Exercise 2 is very important in the learning process. Try to achieve good results in doing it, but do not bring yourself to fatigue. Fatigue dulls attention.
To practice starting a car, an intermediate exercise can be recommended, in which the clutch pedal is not fully released. The initial steps are the same as in the previous exercise.
We squeeze the clutch pedal, turn on the 1st gear, release the clutch, find the position of its operation (the engine reacted by reducing the speed). Further, after adding revolutions by ear, release the clutch pedal by 1-2 mm, thus achieving a slow movement of the car, while the clutch is no longer released. After rolling the car for 1-3 meters, the clutch must be fully squeezed out and the gear must be disengaged.
Let's say right away that this exercise makes the clutch work in an unfavorable mode (the driven disc works more time with slipping), but from the training point of view it gives the best result in training the foot to control the clutch.

7. Movement along a curve trajectory, maneuvering

Exercise 1. Moving in a circle of arbitrary radius

The starting location for this lesson is the same as in the previous exercise.
Having outlined an arbitrary trajectory, we smoothly touch the car in 1st gear and slowly move in a circle, first counterclockwise.
When practicing taxiing skills, it is important that the task does not distract you from the main thing - the ability to stop the car in any situation. The fact is that at the initial stage of training, the car, quite possibly, will not move quite along the trajectory that you intended. In this case, correction in taxiing can be safely carried out only with full control over the movement of the vehicle. If at the time of the exercise you suddenly did not have enough time to make the right decision, you should calmly stop the car without being sprayed on other actions.
Now let's talk specifically about what you need to pay attention to when performing the exercise.
1. You should look not in front of the "nose" of the car directly, but at the place where the car is headed by you (shown by arrows in Fig. 14).

Fig. 14
2. It is necessary to take into account some inertia of the steering of a car (as opposed to a motorcycle, bicycle), since the steering mechanism has a free play (play) within 10 °, provided for by the design. During taxiing, this play is quickly selected.
3. When driving on a curve, do not try to turn the steering wheel in the direction of the turn all the time. The desired trajectory is provided by a certain position of the steered wheels.
It is useful to make intermediate stops during the exercise. After driving a few laps (5-6), change the direction of movement and do the same exercise clockwise.

Exercise 2. Acquisition of taxiing skills while driving in the figure eight (Fig. 15).

Fig. 15
In this exercise, pay attention to correct steering. The rudder turns are performed freely with interception, approximately as shown in fig. 16a and 16b.

Fig.16a. Turn right

Fig.16b. Turn left
In the process of performing this exercise, make intermediate stops.
For the success of the following maneuvering exercises, it is very important to be able to move the vehicle at any minimum distance. This is achieved by competent clutch operation.
When the clutch pedal is released, a certain amount of time elapses for the vehicle to travel a certain distance. In other words, if you try to release the clutch pedal and press the brake immediately when starting the car, you can make sure that the car will roll several meters during this time. But sometimes it is necessary to move the car quite a bit, literally by centimeters. How to do it? To do this, it is enough to move the car on the semi-disengaged clutch, then immediately depress the clutch pedal.

Fig. 17
I - fully depressed pedal
II - clutch engagement position
III - fully released pedal
IV - pedal position (conditional) at which the car will start moving
As we already know, position II (Fig. 17) determines the moment when the clutch engages. From position II the car will start moving. Therefore, the less we release the pedal from position II with the subsequent release, the less distance the car will travel. This will be the goal of our next exercise - to move the car to the minimum distance.

Exercise 3. Moving the car for a minimum distance.

We turn on the 1st gear and find the moment of clutch engagement (position II, fig. 17). Further, while simultaneously adding a little engine speed, we release the clutch pedal to conditional position IV, literally by a few millimeters. After the car has moved, fully depress the clutch pedal. In this case, it is not necessary to use the brake pedal, since if you do everything correctly, the car will not have time to roll out and stop under its own weight.
In this exercise, you need to set for yourself the task of gradually moving the car to the shortest possible distance (10-20 cm).
Try to do the same when moving back. By practicing this exercise, you will gain confidence that the car can be tamed. There will be a pleasant feeling of complete control over the car.

Exercise 4. Reverse maneuvering.

We choose the trajectory of movement arbitrarily, for example, as shown in Fig. 18. In this exercise, the main thing to pay attention to is steering when reversing. We have already considered the movement in reverse in a straight line.
In the proposed exercise, when reversing, we make a turn. Here it is very important for the driver to choose for himself such a position behind the wheel so that it is comfortable, the movements are relaxed, the area where the car should be directed is clearly visible.

Fig. 18a

Fig. 18b
In fig. 18a shows the movement of the car in reverse with the right turn of the steered wheels. In this case, the driver must turn slightly to the right so that the area of \u200b\u200bthe glass of the rear right door and the rear window of the car is visible. You can turn the steering wheel with one hand, with your left hand, or with two hands. It depends on the steepness of the bend and the speed of travel.
In fig. 18b shows the movement of the car in reverse with the left turn of the steered wheels. In this case, the driver must choose a comfortable position for himself: or turn around, as in the previous case, but much more so that the area of \u200b\u200bthe rear window and partially the glass of the rear left door of the car is visible; or, which is probably more convenient when cornering, turn to the left and look through the side glass of the left rear door. Try both. Moreover, the driver can change the position during maneuvering in reverse. If you feel that you are uncomfortable while driving, change position, but first stop the car. The main thing is to see the area to which the car is headed.

8. Driving with gear shifting

For a car to move in different road conditions and at different speeds, it is necessary that the torque on the driving wheels is variable. This is provided by a gearbox (gearbox).
Each gear has its own speed range, which has lower and upper limits and is set by the engine speed.
The approximate range of speeds in each gear for a 4-speed gearbox looks as shown in table. 1.
I - 0 - 40
II - 10 - 60
III - 30 - 90
IV - 50 - max
When driving, the driver selects a convenient speed mode, and uses the gear according to the selected speed. To accelerate the car to the required speed, it is necessary to sequentially accelerate the car in each upward gear (I, II, III, IV gear). For example, the selected speed mode in 4th gear is 60 km / h. The final speed is not the maximum for the car, therefore, the acceleration in each gear should not be maximum:
* starting off the car in 1st gear and acceleration up to 20 km / h;
* switching to the 2nd gear and acceleration up to 40 km / h;
* switching to III gear and acceleration up to 60 km / h;
* switching to IV gear and maintaining the selected speed - 60 km / h.
In this case, the engine will operate in each gear in approximately the same speed range: from idle speed (700-800 rpm) to medium (2000-2500 rpm).

Exercise 1. Movement with switching to II gear.

There should be enough space for this exercise. You will move in a straight line without being distracted by taxiing.
Recommendation.For ease of implementation, divide the process of switching to II gear into several stages.
1. Starting off the car and smooth acceleration in 1st gear.
2. Depressing the clutch pedal while releasing the accelerator pedal.
3. Calm transfer of the gearshift lever from 1st gear to 2nd gear.
4. Sufficiently fast but smooth release of the clutch pedal.
5. Adding engine speed for subsequent acceleration.
As you acquire skills, the 4th and 5th stages can be combined.
At the 1st stage during acceleration, the speed sufficient to switch to 2nd gear can be controlled not by the speedometer. but visually, by eye, and according to the engine speed (the speed should be medium).
At the 2nd stage, take your time when depressing the clutch pedal, by all means immediately change gear. By squeezing the clutch and dropping the rpm, you will coast enough time for a quiet shift of the gearshift lever (3rd stage). The 4th and 5th stages are a matter of technology.
Possible errors and their causes:
1. After acceleration, at the moment of switching, the engine “roared”; gained excessive speed without load - when squeezing the clutch, they forgot to release the accelerator pedal.
2. After acceleration at the moment of switching, the car decelerated sharply. - clutch release is late. You have released the accelerator pedal and the clutch remains engaged. The engine worked as a retarder in 1st gear.
Practice this exercise.
The upshifts from II to III and from III to IV gear are similar to those discussed above. Just take into account that driving in higher gears is possible at higher speeds. Therefore, more space is required for training. It can be any traffic-free road. However, when driving on it during the training process, an experienced driver must sit with you.

Exercise 2. When the speed decreases, the transition to a lower gear.

Returning to Table 1, let's pay attention to the lower speed limit for each gear. It indicates that it is not permissible to move at a speed lower than the lower limit for a particular gear. In this case, the engine will operate intermittently at speed, below idle speed, and may even stop. At the time of operation, the engine will experience a very harmful "oil starvation".
If, while driving, a situation arose that requires a decrease in speed, then, having reduced the speed to the minimum allowable for a given gear, it is necessary to switch to a lower gear suitable for this speed. In this case, switching downward in the reverse order is not necessary.
Here are some examples.
The first. We are moving in IV gear at a speed of 60 km / h. There is an intersection ahead, at which we need to turn. Slowing down, we reduce the speed to about 50 km / h (the lower limit in 4th gear), squeeze the clutch, continuing braking. We turn on the II gear, since the speed we have chosen for cornering is about 10 km / h.
Second. We are moving at the same speed in 4th gear. There is a traffic light ahead, prohibiting traffic. We reduce the speed to 50 km / h, squeeze out the clutch, continuing to brake until a full stop in front of the traffic light. We put the gear in neutral.
From the two examples given, it can be seen that intermediate gears were not required.
Try the indicated transition exercise:
* from IV to III
* from IV to II
* from III to II gear.
You should only switch to 1st gear if the speed is practically zero.

9. Check-in to the garage

For further studies, you will need dimensional poles - wooden, plastic, ski poles, etc. The main thing is that they are about one meter in size or a little more; so that if you accidentally run over them, your car will not be damaged; so that the bearings on which they will be installed do not damage the wheels of the car. 7-8 of them are enough.
We put the car on the site and place poles around it, as shown in Fig. 19.

Figure: 19
The task is to leave the garage and drive into it in reverse. Moreover, this exercise must be performed from different sides.
When leaving the garage, it must be borne in mind that when turning, the trajectories of the front and rear wheels are different. The rear wheel runs along the inner radius. Therefore, leaving the garage, do not rush to immediately turn, otherwise the front pole (Fig. 20) will be knocked down (and if this is a real garage, the side of the car will suffer). To prevent this from happening, roll the car in a straight line about half, then turn in the chosen direction, controlling the inner side of the car.

Figure: 20

Exercise 1. Leaving the garage by turning to the right and driving back in reverse.

When leaving the garage, you need to focus on the right front corner (right front pole). We leave the garage to the right side and park the car as shown in fig. 20.
To enter the garage, we turn around in the driver's seat so that it is clearly visible. We will divide the race itself into three stages.
At the 1st stage, we focus on the nearest pole, which must be rounded at a distance of 30-40 cm from the side of the car along a steep radius. At the end of the 1st stage, the car should be located approximately 45 ° to the garage, the nearest pole should be visible in the rear right door glass and be at a distance of 30-40 cm from the side of the car, the steered wheels are completely turned to the right (Fig.21a).

Figure: 21a
At the second stage, all attention is directed to the middle section of the landmarks, which the car must pass in the center. Observing the movement of the car along a steep arc inside the garage, we wait until the rear of the car is oriented in the center of the middle alignment (Fig.21b).

Figure: 21b
At the 3rd stage, focusing on the rear gate (or on the central pole), we align the car so that inside the garage it moves strictly in a straight line.
It should be noted that correcting a possible mistake inside the garage by taxiing will not bring any benefit, it can only worsen the situation.
In the final phase inside the garage, the car should not move in an arc. Adjusting the rear of the car even for a small distance will entail a significant displacement towards the front (steerable) part of the car (fig. 22).

Figure: 22

Exercise 2. Leaving the garage with a left turn and reversing.

This exercise differs from the previous one only in the orientation of the driver in his place.
Getting into the garage will take patience. It is useful during training, setting landmarks for yourself, stopping the car in intermediate positions, getting out of it to analyze your actions.

10. Turn in a confined space

To conduct a lesson on the site, we will make a corridor of poles, as shown in Fig. 23.

Figure: 23

Exercise 1. Turn to the left using reverse.

For a U-turn to be most effective, three conditions are necessary:
* use of the corridor across the entire width;
* work as a wheel in the entire range;
* preparing the car before stopping by turning the steered wheels to move in the other direction.
So, let's try to make the U-turn rationally. We enter the corridor, snuggling to the right side (about half a meter from the poles). In the middle of the corridor we unscrew the steering wheel to the left to the full and in this position we pass 2/3 of the width of the corridor. We pass the rest of the way, quickly twisting the steering wheel in the other direction. those. to the right. You need to stop the car about half a meter from the restrictive poles.
Starting the movement in reverse, we continue to rotate the steering wheel to the right to failure. Thus, we also pass 2/3 of the width of the corridor. The rest of the way to the stop, turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction, i.e. to the left. After stopping, we resume moving forward with the rotation of the steering wheel to the left.
Recommendation.When performing maneuvering exercises, do not be afraid to use the "roll-forward", ie. movement with clutch release. In this case, the vehicle may move more slowly and will be easier to drive.
With the acquisition of skills and experience, your movements will be more rational.

11. Car parking

The car can be parked in three ways (fig. 24):

Figure 24a, parallel to the carriageway;

Fig.24b, perpendicular to the carriageway;

Fig.24c, at an angle to the carriageway.
Parking perpendicular to the carriageway is similar to driving into a garage. Parking at an angle to the carriageway is easy if you can handle perpendicular parking.
Let's stop at the car parking parallel to the roadway. If the space for your car between the cars standing on the sidewalk is limited, but sufficient, then it is advisable to enter in this gap in reverse. The fact is that with the help of the front steerable wheels, the "nose" of the car is easily skidded.

Exercise 1. Parallel parking.

We put the poles and the car relative to them, as shown in fig. 25.

Figure: 25
As an example, we will use a graphical representation of the phased arrangement of the car during a drive (see Fig. 26).

Fig. 26
In position 1, the steered wheels must be turned to the right. In position 2, the distance from the side of the car to the nearest pole should be ~ 0.5 m. From position 2 to position 3, the car should move in a straight line. In position 3, the steered wheels must be turned to the left. The distance from the rear right corner of the car to the line of the poles is ~ 0.5 m. When driving from position 3 to position 4, it is important to control the right fender of the car. Position 4 shows the result that you should achieve after the workouts done. From position 4, correction is possible with the vehicle moving forward.

12. Check-in at the flyover. Driving off a car on a hill

For a successful arrival at the overpass you need:
* correctly coordinate the car;
* keep straightness when entering the overpass;
* be able to stop the car in any position on the overpass, preventing it from rolling.
The vehicle coordination training should be started without going over the overpass.

Exercise 1. Arrival at the flyover.

We put the poles (without foot bearings) in relation to the car, as shown in Fig. 27. In this case, the landmarks will determine the tracks of the overpass.

Fig. 27
Consider that in close proximity to the overpass, the car must move strictly in a straight line. That is, maneuvering must be done in advance. Otherwise, directing the front wheels to the overpass correctly, but continuing to move in an arc, you will not fall into the overpass ruts with the rear wheels.
Repeat this exercise several times. Now try to do the same with the offset of the car relative to the placed poles in the opposite direction.

Exercise 2. Stopping the car on the overpass.

To perform the exercise, choose a natural slope (about 16 °) and lay the poles on it in the same way as indicated above.
Aiming the car at an impromptu overpass. we stop it on the rise. To prevent the car from rolling back after stopping, while continuing to firmly hold the brake pedal, tighten the parking brake. While stopping on the rise, pay attention to the sequence of actions: when the clutch pedal is depressed and the brake pedal is depressed, the “handbrake” is first tightened, and only then the gear is disengaged and the pedals are released.

Exercise 3. Starting off the car on the rise.

So, the car is on the rise with the parking brake. Our task is to release the car from the parking brake at the initial moment of its starting.
The sequence of actions is as follows.
1. We turn on the 1st gear and put our right hand on the "handbrake".
2. We find the moment of clutch engagement and in this position we hold the left leg (remember that at the moment the clutch engages, the engine will react with a decrease in rpm).
3. Having increased the speed, we lower the brake lever to the end, after pressing the ratchet button.
4. Then we do everything as in the usual starting.
If your actions are correct, the car will not roll back.
Possible errors and their causes:
1. When starting off, the engine stalled - the "handbrake" was not released in time
2. The engine “roars”, the car rolls back - the “handbrake” is released ahead of time (the clutch has not yet worked). When the car rolls back, there is an involuntary desire to move the car forward by pressing the accelerator more, forgetting about the clutch
So, if the goal is clear, you need to start practicing actions. The main thing at the initial stage of training is not to rush to do everything at once. Learn to act sequentially, as we have discussed.
Recommendation. If the car rolls back, you must calmly continue to smoothly release the clutch until it engages. In this case, at the moment the clutch is activated, the car will first stop and then begin to move forward.
In this exercise, the most attention should be paid to the work of the clutch.

Section II. ROAD DRIVING

Having acquired sufficient driving skills, you have fulfilled only one of the requirements of Section 21 of the Road Traffic Regulations.
In order to enter the road in order to continue your studies, you need to fulfill the following requirements.
1. Know and strictly follow the traffic rules.
2. The vehicle must have front and rear markings for training driving and be equipped with a rear-view mirror for the trainer:

3. You must have a driving teacher with at least three years of experience.
When training on the road, you must wear your seat belts.
Except for the general prohibition of driving
On the highways marked with the sign below, there are roads in cities where training driving is also prohibited.

In Moscow, these are:
* center within the Garden Ring, including the ring itself
* all station squares Berezhkovskaya embankment ave. Vernadsky
* Vnukovskoe highway
* Volokolamskoe highway
* B. Dorogomilovskaya st.
* Ilyinskoe highway
* Novoarbatskiy ave.
* Komsomolsky ave.
* Krasnogorskoe highway
* Kutuzovsky Ave.
* Leninsky Prospect
* Leningradsky Prospect
* Leningradskoe highway up to 29 km
* Lomonosovsky Ave.
* Minskaya st.
* Minsk highway up to 19 km
* prosp. The world
* Michurinsky Ave.
* Mosfilmovskaya st.
* Mozhaisk highway
* Proletarsky Ave.
* Podushkinskoe highway
* Rublevo-Uspenskoe highway
* Rublevskoe Old Highway
* Smolenskaya st.
* Tverskaya (Gorky) st.
* Tverskaya-Yamskaya (Gorky) st.
* University ave.
* Uspenskoe Second highway
* emb. Shevchenko
* Sheremetyevskaya st.

1. Starting the movement and stopping at the curbstone (at the sidewalk)

Before driving, you must:
* make sure that you do not interfere with other road users;
* turn on the direction indicator.
It should be reminded that a warning signal (direction indicator) does not give the driver an advantage while driving.
If the car is parked on the sidewalk and the road is clear in front of it, it is convenient to start driving at a very sharp angle without making sudden maneuvers. In this case, you will not create inconveniences for a moving vehicle. Whether your car is standing on the sidewalk or moving at a low speed in the immediate vicinity is almost the same for the driver of another vehicle (Fig. 28).

Figure: 28
If there is an obstacle in front of your vehicle (for example, another vehicle), the driving maneuver requires great care. Vehicles moving on the road have the advantage. In this case, you will need acquired clutch skills to keep the exit slowly and in a controlled manner. Such departure implies suspension in any position in the event of a change in the situation (Fig. 29, item 2).

Fig. 29
In order to safely stop at the sidewalk, you must:
* clearly know in advance where we can do it;
* give a warning signal in advance (right turn signal);
* Smoothly reduce speed and, if possible, approach the curb at an acute angle.
It is very important that you approach the curb after slowing down. Driving to the sidewalk at high speed can lead to error and unpleasant consequences. If a wheel comes into contact with a curb, the wheel could be damaged or, even worse, lose control of the vehicle due to increased resistance on the right wheel.
Where stopping is prohibited, indicated in the 12th section of the SDA

2. Movement in a row with respect to distance

The speed and distance should be chosen so as to exclude a collision with the vehicle in front, even in the event of sudden braking.
When choosing a distance, the following factors should be considered:
* speed of movement (the higher the speed, the greater the distance);
* visibility (illumination, fog, etc.);
* condition of the road surface;
* the condition of your vehicle;
* own state (fatigue, decreased reaction, etc.).
Driving in its lane on the road is the easiest and safest. In this case, you are required to maintain a distance and competent use of gears when changing speed modes.

3. Movement with rebuilding from row to row

This maneuver requires increased attention from the driver. In this case, two conditions must be met. It is necessary:
* Give way to a vehicle moving in its lane.
* Give a warning signal.
Let's look at a few examples of rebuilding.
1. The speed behind the car going in the next lane is higher than yours (fig. 30).

Figure: thirty
Rebuilding is currently not possible. If the change of lane is caused by the upcoming turn and this turn is already close, it is necessary to reduce the speed in advance and wait for an opportunity to change safely. The main thing (especially at first, while there is no experience) is not to rush, not to succumb to impatient manifestations of other drivers (beeps, headlights) and not to take rash actions. Remember! Each action associated with changing the driving mode must be controlled.
2. The speed of the vehicle behind is approximately equal to yours, and there is a sufficient distance to it (fig. 31).

Figure: 31
Rebuilding is possible. In this case, for greater safety when changing lanes, the speed can be slightly increased (if the situation permits).
3. The speed of your car is higher than the speed of the car in the next lane (fig. 32).

Figure: 32
In this case, changing lanes is possible after the car in the next lane is visible through the rear window in the rearview mirror.
If you need to change lanes on a multi-lane road with overcoming several lanes, you should not "cut" the road diagonally. In this case, an error in assessing the speed and distance of several vehicles moving in adjacent rows at once is possible.
It is safer to perform this maneuver in stages from row to row, that is, after rebuilding to the next row, assess the situation in the next, etc. (fig. 33).

4. Passage of unregulated intersections

Unregulated intersections are divided into equal and unequal, i.e. with main and secondary roads.
Driving through an unregulated intersection is one of the most difficult elements on the road.
When approaching an intersection, the driver must clearly know:
* further direction of your movement;
* who has the priority right in traffic at this intersection.
The direction of traffic at an intersection requires that your vehicle be properly positioned in front of it. For example, when driving in a forward direction, the vehicle can be located in any lane. When driving to the right or left at an intersection, you must take the right or left lane, respectively.
If the directions of traffic intersect, the priority rights in traffic at the intersection are:
* vehicle with the included flashing light;
* vehicle located on the main road;
* tram;
* a vehicle that has no obstruction on the right.
Here are some examples.

Figure: 34
In Figure 34, although the vehicle with the rotating beacon is on a secondary road, it takes precedence.

Figure: 35
In Figure 35, a vehicle located on the main road has priority in movement. The tram also obeys this rule.

Figure: 36
In Figure 36, with an equal right to traffic (equivalent intersection), the tram has the advantage (despite the fact that the tram has an obstacle on the right).

Figure: 37
As Figure 37 shows, on equivalent roads, the one that has no obstacle to the right has the advantage (in the absence of a tram and a vehicle with a flashing light).
It takes time to properly assess the situation at the intersection. The lower the speed with which we will drive up to the intersection, the more time will be for assessing the specific situation and making the right decision.
Practice confirms that movement in a 15-20-meter zone in front of an intersection at a speed of no more than 10 km / h allows the driver to calmly understand the situation. We know that gear II must be selected for driving at such a low speed. If, having reduced the speed in advance, switch on the 2nd gear in 15-20 m, then you can focus all your attention on the main thing:
* in the absence of obstacles, continue driving in the intended direction;
* if there is an obstacle that does not allow moving on, stop in front of the intersection.
Let's consider the driver's actions using the example of specific intersections.

Intersection with STOP sign

If there is a sign prohibiting the passage of an intersection without stopping, the position of the driver is greatly simplified. He has a specific task - to stop. It must be done, and then other tasks must be solved. The question is: where to stay and how?

Figure: 38
According to the traffic rules, in the absence of the STOP line, it is necessary to stop in front of the intersected carriageway. It should be noted that driving beyond the conventional line (Fig. 38) without stopping is unacceptable. If you stop long before this line, the intersection will be less visible, making it inconvenient to resume traffic.
When stopping, you should also consider how to position the vehicle. If the further direction of movement is straight or to the left, the car must be coordinated strictly perpendicular to the intersected carriageway (moreover, when turning left, in the left lane); when turning right, the car must be stopped on the path along which the movement is planned.

Crossroads with the sign "Give way"

As in the previous case, we are on a secondary road. The difference is that this sign does not require an unconditional stop. Therefore, there is a temptation to overcome it on the move.
In order to drive through the intersection with confidence and safety, it is recommended to proceed as follows.

Figure: 39
1. For 15-20 m, reduce the speed to about 10 km / h and engage 2nd gear (Fig. 39, item 1).
2. Moving at low speed, first direct all attention to the left side (if from this position the left side of the intersection is poorly visible, you must first look in the direction of better visibility).
3. If an obstacle is detected from the indicated side, we calmly stop in front of the intersected roadway. In the absence of interference from this direction, continuing to approach the intersection, we direct all attention to the opposite direction.
4. 3-5 m before the intersected carriageway (Fig. 39, item 2), a decision should be made on the possibility of continuing movement.
If you did not have time to correctly assess the situation at the intersection, it is unacceptable to leave the intersected carriageway. Nothing will happen if you, having not orientated yourself in time, unnecessarily stopped in front of the intersected roadway.

Equivalent intersection

At an equivalent intersection, in the absence of a vehicle with a flashing light and a tram, the rule "interference from the right" applies. Therefore, you must give way to all vehicles on your right.

Figure: 40
The most difficult maneuver at an equivalent intersection is a left turn. In this case, the interference can be from two directions - from the right and towards. To pass the vehicle from the right direction, your car must be in front of the intersected carriageway (Fig. 40, item 1). When turning left to pass an oncoming vehicle moving straight or to the right, the car should be stopped at the intersection in the position from which the turn will begin (Fig. 40, item 2), ie. in the middle of the intersection. The steered wheels must stand straight to avoid unauthorized driving into the oncoming lane while waiting.

5. Passage of regulated intersections

An intersection is regulated if the order of movement on it is determined by a traffic controller or traffic light.

Figure: 41a

Figure: 41b
In fig. 41a, 41b show the permitted directions of movement for two main positions of the controller.
The traffic controller who raised his hand with the baton upward requires attention from the vehicles. The actions of the drivers in this case must be the same as in the case of a yellow traffic light.
When regulating traffic with a traffic light, special attention should be paid to a traffic light with an additional section. The included additional section allows movement in the indicated direction. But in this case, when the main section of the traffic light prohibits movement (red or yellow), then, moving in the direction allowed by the additional section, it is necessary to pass vehicles from other directions. For example, we need to turn right, as shown in fig. 42.

Figure: 42
Remember that the main red (or yellow) section of the traffic light indicates that traffic from the other direction is allowed. A driver moving towards a green traffic light may not be aware that a permit arrow is on from your direction. He knows one thing: there is a red light from your direction. If there are additional sections in the traffic light, in the direction of which you do not need to go, do not occupy the rows corresponding to the sections. Otherwise, you can obstruct other vehicles and, according to the Road Traffic Regulations, you will be obliged to clear the corresponding lane by going in the direction indicated by the section (fig. 43).

Figure: 43
One more recommendation. Never rush to touch the car when the green light comes on. An attempt to start moving as soon as possible, so as not to detain anyone, will lead to the fact that a mistake will be made and the engine will stall. With quiet actions, the delay at the intersection will not be more than 2-3 seconds.

6. Overtaking

Overtaking, i.e. advancing from the occupied lane is one of the most dangerous actions on the road. It requires increased attention from the driver if it is done with a drive into the oncoming lane.
In addition to the general requirements listed in the road rules, it is useful to know a number of techniques when overtaking to help you overtake safely.
If you decide to overtake the vehicle in front, you should move your car to the left in advance (approximately half the width of the car) so that the oncoming lane zone is clearly visible. With such a small offset, you will not interfere with oncoming vehicles (Fig. 44).

Figure: 44
In addition, it is necessary to maintain a sufficient distance to the overtaker, not to drive too close to him. When an oncoming vehicle is level with your fellow traveler you are about to overtake, this distance can be used to increase your speed.
The greater the difference in speed between the overtaking and overtaken, the less time it takes to overtake and the safer it will be to overtake with a departure into the oncoming lane.
Figure 45 graphically shows competent overtaking.
The speeds of overtaken and overtaken in Fig. 45a are equal, the distance is maintained, since the oncoming lane is occupied. At the same time, the overtaking one is slightly shifted to the left for better visibility of the oncoming lane.

Figure: 45a
In Figure 45b, the oncoming car caught up with the overtaken one. At this moment, the overtaking one increases the speed, the distance is reduced (if the lane behind the oncoming car is free).

Figure: 45b
In Figure 45c, the oncoming lane is cleared. The speed difference between the overtaking and overtaken is sufficient. A safe overtaking takes place.

Figure: 45c
After overtaking, you should rebuild into your lane no earlier than the one you just overtaken is visible in the rear-view mirror.
It should be borne in mind that top gear is not always useful for rapidly increasing speed. For example, you are driving at 50 km / h in 4th gear. A car is moving ahead at a slightly lower speed, say - 45 km / h. To overtake it with a speed difference of 5 km / h will take a lot of time and a large section of the track. During this time, the situation on the oncoming lane may change. You can increase the speed to 60 km / h in the same 4th gear, but the increase will be slow (the gear is weak). If we use the III gear (it works in the speed range of 30-90 km / h), then the acceleration will be more intensive, with much less time spent on increasing the speed.

The presence of a mechanical gearbox in the car provides for manual gear shifting by the driver. Most vehicles with "mechanics" are equipped with a unit with 5-6 forward gears and one for reverse. Having an idea of \u200b\u200bthe interaction of the engine and this type of transmission, as well as having theoretical knowledge about the principles of control of "mechanics" when a car is moving, it will be easy for a beginner to cope with the practice of driving this type of car.

Theory of Driving a Manual Transmission Vehicle

It is possible to master the technique of driving a car with "mechanics" by understanding the principles of operation of this mechanism, the purpose of the lever and pedals, and the rules for controlling them:

1. Clutch pedal... Serves to decouple the torque transmitted from the engine to the transmission during gear changes and emergency braking. On a manual transmission, it is squeezed out exclusively to the stop.
2. Neutral speed... This position of the gearbox prevents the transmission of torque from the engine to the wheels. From it, the driver can turn on any gear, including reverse.
3. First speed... Designed to start moving.
4. Reverse gear... Allows you to accelerate faster than at first speed, but is not intended for long-term use, not being the main means of transportation.
5. Gas pedal... By adjusting the speed of the crankshaft, it allows the driver to use in any driving modes.

The theoretical part of the knowledge of driving a car with a manual transmission includes knowledge of the sequence of actions for starting a car and the correct gearshift when driving and braking.

How to start driving a car with a manual transmission

Before driving, the driver must adjust the seat position so that he can freely depress the pedals and have a comfortable driving position, after which the following steps are performed:

1. The lever is transferred to the neutral position, after pressing the clutch.
2. Start and warm up the engine. To reduce the load on the starter, depress the clutch pedal when starting.
3. To start the movement, squeeze the clutch, turn on the 1st speed, release the parking brake, and, gradually, releasing the clutch, add engine speed with the gas pedal. This operation requires a certain amount of experience to be able to correctly balance the pedals so that the engine does not stall without sufficient RPM, or too abrupt start at too high.

Do you think that the manual transmission is too complicated for you? The automatic box has its drawbacks - many have.

How to properly shift gears on mechanics while driving

When driving a car, it is very important to understand when to shift gears to reduce fuel consumption, optimize driving dynamics and prevent transmission damage. The standard recommendations that are given for all types of cars, where each gear is tied to its own speed, is not entirely correct, since all cars have their own gearbox ratios and engine power.

Gear shifting from low to high and vice versa is performed depending on the speed of the machine. An experienced driver shifts gears at reflex level, which is achieved during practical driving. An inexperienced driver must remember certain switching rules: after reaching the required speed, the foot is removed from the gas pedal, the clutch is simultaneously squeezed, then the gear lever is moved to the next position, after waiting a second at neutral speed.

This pause is necessary to equalize the speed of rotation of the gears of the gearbox. When the lever is in the desired position, smoothly release the clutch pedal and depress the accelerator pedal, increasing the fuel supply to the engine. In this case, the speed of the car should increase. Then continue driving in the same gear, or accelerate to switch to the next.

In addition to gaining speed, one should not forget about the reverse action of gear shifting, that is, about the transition from a higher to a lower one. This is necessary when braking quickly, for which you need to release the "gas", slow down, squeeze the clutch, engage a lower gear and release the clutch. When performing such a shift, it must be borne in mind that a lower gear implies a smoother release of the clutch, so as not to cause a skid of the car, which is especially dangerous on a slippery road.

At what speed do you need to change gears

A manual gearbox allows a car to move at different speeds at the same engine speed, that is, at the same engine speed, the car has the ability to develop different speeds. In the lowest gear, the vehicle will have the maximum pulling power, and in the highest gear, the speed. The gearbox allows the engine to be used in the rpm range that is most beneficial in terms of economy and maximum efficiency.

Correct gear shifting while driving - this is the golden mean in the rev range, which corresponds to the maximum torque and power. And the first indicator determines the intensity of the vehicle's acceleration. Engineering calculations and experiments show that for an eight-valve gasoline engine with a working volume of 1.0-2.5 liters, upshifting will be optimal at speeds of 3-4 thousand rpm, when the torque is close to maximum.

In the operating instructions for cars, this is expressed in terms of speed, specifying its maximum value for each gear. For example, with a 1.2-2.0 liter engine with a 5-speed gearbox with moderate driving, the speed in 1st gear should not exceed 35 km / h, in 2nd gear - 50-60 km / h, in 3rd gear - 90 km / h, and on the 4th - 130 km / h. In this case, a short-term excess of the indicated values \u200b\u200bby 10-15 km / h is permissible on the rise or when overtaking, driving the tachometer needle into the red zone for a few seconds.

How to brake properly

Driving with manual transmission includes the ability to correctly reduce speed and stop when moving. Driving schools teach that the movement of a vehicle with a neutral position of the lever should be excluded from the practice of everyday driving, especially on wet and slippery roads. For this, the following types of braking are used:

1. The engine. Designed to reduce speed and stop in severe weather conditions, which requires:

• Release the "gas";
• Slowly press the brake pedal;
• Before the car comes to a complete stop, squeeze the clutch to prevent the engine from stalling;
• Shift into neutral.

2. In dry weather. Helps to brake sharply on dry roads:

• Release the "gas";
• Squeeze out the clutch;
• Press the brake and hold the pedal until the car comes to a complete stop;
• Apply neutral speed and parking brake.

3. Smooth braking. Used to reduce vehicle speed:

• Release the "gas";
• Without touching the clutch pedal, gently press the brake;
• When the speed is reduced to the required value, depress the clutch and change to the desired gear.

Many modern drivers prefer cars with an automatic transmission. It is understandable, because the very process of driving such a car involves less concentration on the control process, so you can pay more attention to what is happening on the road. The clutch pedal, which is one of the main controls on the mechanics, is absent in a car with an automatic machine, which frees the driver from the constant "dance" on 3 pedals.

However, the ability to drive a car with a manual transmission is widely appreciated in the world, it is considered more professional. In Russia, where the automotive industry got stuck in the last century, mechanics are still the most common. The assumption that driving a car with a manual transmission is much more difficult than an automatic one is wrong. There are many advantages here and, of course, it becomes a matter of habit. Is it possible to learn to drive a mechanic from scratch, what are the basic principles of driving such a car? You will find the answer to these and many other questions in our article.

A car with a manual transmission has 3 pedals... They are located in this way:

• The far left is the clutch pedal;
• In the middle is a brake;
• The far right is gas.

Most importantly, you need to understand how the clutch pedal works and how to properly shift gears. Learning and honing the skill of shifting gears on mechanics is better to hone on a running car. Learning to smoothly press and release the clutch pedal is also very important, otherwise the car will constantly stall.

It is worth understanding for yourself how it works. With the help of the clutch pedal, we control the coupling of the gears that go from the engine to the shaft. When the pedal is fully depressed, we can safely change gears without fear of damaging the mechanism. How much you release the pedal affects traction. So we can distinguish several positions of the pedal, the knowledge of which we will have to master from experience, but it is necessary to know about them:

• When fully pressed, the clutch is disengaged;
• The position of the slightly released pedal is the hitch point. For each car, this and the subsequent positions are purely individual, but in a properly tuned car, the hitch point is closer to the vertical position of the pedal, relative to the bottom;
• The position of the slightly depressed pedal, closer to the released one, is full grip. In this position, the car drives.
• The pedal is released - it is also full clutch. The range of motion from fully released pedal to slightly depressed is called idle. Here the car moves according to the selected gear, all that changes is the traction force.

When you start the car, the clutch must be disengaged, that is, the pedal must be fully depressed. Only after the first gear is engaged, and the engine is started, we can smoothly release the pedal to start moving. Driving a car for mechanics is not difficult, but this process has its own specifics.

Don't forget to adjust the mirrors and position the seat so that you can easily push the pedals all the way down. Do not forget to buckle up, because on the first you will often deaf, as a result of which you can hit the steering wheel and generally get injured. Safety comes first.

How to get under way

If you are driving for the first time, then it is better to choose a place where there are no other cars and pedestrians, so that you can calmly, without unnecessary eyes and fuss, learn how to drive a car. There are special racing tracks where everyone can hone their driving skills to perfection.

The first thing you see when you get into the car is the neutral vehicle on, the handbrake on. There is a simple procedure that you can take to get under way:

1. Start the engine;
2. Depress the clutch pedal all the way;
3. Engage first gear. Most often it is located so that you need to move the lever first to the left, then forward, in order to "stick" it;
4. Remove the car from the parking brake;
5. Keeping the clutch with your left foot, we lightly press on the gas with your right, raising the revs to 1.5-2 thousand. This will prevent the car from stalling. The number of revolutions is displayed on the dashboard, on the so-called tachometer;
6. Gradually release the clutch pedal to the engagement point. The machine should start moving, as soon as this happens, stop releasing the pedal, fix it in this position;
7. As soon as the car starts to move fully, smoothly release the clutch pedal, add gas if necessary.

When starting the movement, it is worth considering the position of the car. If you are standing uphill, the procedure will look different. This is what the procedure will look like if you want to drive up the hill without a parking brake:

1. We stand with the clutch and brake depressed, the first gear is engaged;
2. Release the clutch pedal smoothly until the engagement point. When the hitch occurs, you will see that the revs have dropped slightly;
3. Now release the brake with your right foot and press down the gas pedal, give 2 thousand revolutions, if the hill is steep, then more. The car starts moving uphill

Shifting gears on the go

In order to fully drive a car on mechanics, it is important to understand what actions are being carried out for what. The mechanism of the transmission is such that you, in essence, rearrange the gears to set the most suitable speed. If you change gears with the clutch released, that is, with a full hitch, you risk not only stalling, but also damage the working mechanism. Smooth and precise operation with the clutch pedal is the guarantee that you will not stall at every corner, and the car will be in good working order.

Shifting gears, as already mentioned, is the movement of gears to select the required speed. So:

• In 1st gear, the vehicle's speed reaches approximately 20 km / h;
• 2nd gear will give from 20 to 40 km / h;
• 3 - from 40 to 60 km / h;
• 4 - from 60 to 90 km / h
• 5 - from 90 km / h and more.

Do not forget that the limit within the city and other settlements is usually no more than 60 km / h, not counting the highway sections of the road, on which the limit may be higher. If you are just learning to drive, then chasing speed is overkill. First you need to master the driving method, and only then hone your skills.

To change gears on the go, you need to do the following procedure:

1. At the same time releasing the gas pedal, press the clutch pedal;
2. The car is coasting. We change the gear to the next, according to the scheme. It is usually depicted on the gear lever.
3. Now we smoothly release the clutch and add gas to raise the revs.

When driving a car with a manual gearbox, it is worth remembering that the most appropriate shift point is different for each car. It depends on the individual characteristics of the transmission. Every car you drive is worth getting used to.

To slow down and shift to a lower gear, you should do the following:

1. We release the gas, wait until the speed drops;
2. We squeeze the clutch;
3. We switch gear;
4. Release the clutch carefully;
5. Then you can gas.

We park the car

For novice drivers, it is best to park at the lowest speed possible, and hold the clutch so that in which case you can squeeze the clutch and press the brake to stop. If you press the brake without a clutch, the car will simply stall. Having parked the car, it is worth putting it on the handbrake and turning on neutral.