Test Drive

What is permanent four-wheel drive?

And then why is there a lever in the field " differential lock"? The answer is for driving on really bad roads and also in the complete absence of those. After all, the presence of three differentials (two bridge and center) means that it is enough to lose traction on one wheel (mud, ice, hanging in the air) as it is right there will begin to rotate at a quadruple speed and all the other wheels will stand (although the grip on them can be good). The locked center differential no longer transmits equal moments, but equal speeds - so already two wheels will always transmit moment, one on each axle. And the car will stop only if they both lose traction - for example, when hanging diagonally (two wheels diagonally on hills and the remaining two are hanging in the air) or when one side falls into some ditch or snow. but unfortunately for the cornfield there is no such serial version, only a variety of amateur finishing touches (vpl until one of the differentials is tightly brewed, then the car completely loses its ability to drive normally on the roads).

Niva is a tank! But light and shallow

Namely, the niva is still a compromise between a road car and an SUV. Of course, you can ride it to Everest and storm the expanses of the Siberian taiga - but it's better not to do that. Have pity on the technique and it will live much longer. This is not a military Urals, it is impossible to load 10 tons on it and jump from a cliff of 5 meters - the suspension is still almost from a classic Zhiguli, although it is reinforced. You should not dive into the ford after the T-80 tank either, the factory depth of the ford to be overcome is only 60 cm (and it is achieved without special preparation only with extremely slow movement, otherwise it will splatter and stall, and the fan can be turned off and the electrician can be burned). And in general, you don't have to assume that now you can handle everything and you will go everywhere - no, with this approach you will just sit much further and deeper than, for example, on the same classics.

But on the roads of a state that is very below average, the cornfield drives quite nothing. A grader and a country road, a soggy collective farm track or a river bank - these are the places where you can drive in the field calmly, at a speed determined solely by the wishes and skills of the driver, and the car will not let you down. You will not fly away in a corner due to the demolition of the only drive axle controlled by it, and you will not feel that you are simply being carried sideways as on a rear wheel drive. Even in comparison with the standard 4 * 4 on a field in such conditions, it is much better to drive - you can go through turns by rolling in and not sliding with all four wheels. You will not drown in a puddle 10 cm deep and a pit of the same size will not require your head to poke through the ceiling.

Transfer and low gear

And this is a handout. Transfer case if officially. A device that from one shaft coming out of the box (the most common one, practically does not differ from 2107) makes two - on both bridges.

One of the levers controls the low gear. In fact, this is an additional gearbox with a ratio of the order of 1: 2 included after the box. That is, where you had a 4th (direct) transmission, something like the 2nd is obtained, where the 2nd is the 1st, and where the 1st is there is something even lower, even slower, but with twice the effort. It is used for two purposes - firstly, when there is not enough engine torque in the 1st gear of the upper row (1c) - on the off-road or when pulling a heavy trailer with a tug (a niva by 1n can easily move a trolleybus from its place and pull on a flat surface - and this is, by the way, 8 tons - although, of course, without much agility). And the second goal is to reduce the speed below the 1st gear in conditions when there is enough torque, but there is no control speed. For example, when maneuvering (entering a narrow place or into a parking lot), driving in a very sluggish traffic jam (where everyone does nothing but pull the clutch - the engine does not pull at less than 1000 rpm and even stalls, and there is no speed corresponding to these rpm in the traffic jam). It is very convenient then to turn on the lower row and calmly move without burning out the clutch and without jumping forward at each start-stop.

You can turn off the bottom row without stopping the car. As on a conventional gearbox only unsynchronized (maybe you heard "experienced stories" about all sorts of double squeezes and "grinding of gears"? That was all when the main gearboxes were unsynchronized). That is, with the selection of revolutions on the shafts and a neat and rather slow engagement of the gears. The plant prohibits turning on the bottom row so only by stopping the car. But practically when driving at a very low speed (up to 5 km / h - the speed of a pedestrian), this is quite possible if you practice a little, and without the terrible grunts in the box. Just in no case try to put pressure on the gear - if it crunches and does not climb, then the application of effort can only turn off the transfer case with subsequent expensive repairs.

The second lever is the control of the above-described center differential. Forward - normal mode, backward - locked, for difficult road conditions. Attention - enabling and especially disabling this blocking is not always possible. It may simply "not go" - if the shafts are not in the right position, or "bite" if an effort is applied to this blocking (turning on the road with noticeable wheel traction). Drive a little forward (and maybe back) and the lever will move to the desired position without much difficulty. Again, do not try to suppress the inclusion - if it already crunches, then the shafts are turning relative to each other and the inclusion is impossible. Stop or go straight ahead (when there is no path difference between the bridges). When the lock is on, a yellow light comes on on the dashboard - this is to remind you that you cannot drive on good roads in this mode.

I am a steep wide jeeper - I turned on the second bridge and drive!

These are the ones we treat: Once again, you cannot drive in a field with a locked differential on good roads... The razdatka, gearboxes and cardan shafts will crumble, the tires will quickly erode and there is a noticeable risk of going outside when cornering but they have not yet grasped the essence of the phenomena. For all the reasoning about the moment, differentials or razdatka they have a reasonable, parity answer: "Cho, this jyp, fuck!")

The only mode when the inclusion of blocking is justified when driving on more or less decent roads is on a grader. When there are no turns, there is speed (the car allows you to drive 100 or more on a completely average collective farm grader - be careful only with the brakes, they move away from lateral vibration and one or two presses are required to bring the pads into place) and every cobblestone, bump or yamina strives turn the car around the vertical axis (along the course in the sense). Niva is a short-wheelbase car and therefore side impacts on it have a very significant effect on the course. Turning on the blocking allows you to slightly reduce the effect (at the cost of naturally reducing the resource and increasing gasoline consumption - slippage during turns and small deviations will not disappear anywhere).

So when to include what?

The basic rule is to first turn on and then go to the assault. If you can see an endless swamp ahead with traces of the Kirovets tractor going into the abyss, then you need to stop, turn on 1n and the lock, look around: and turn into a detour. The cornfield practically cannot overcome such obstacles, but it sits in them thoroughly, so pushing it out by the crew is unrealistic.

If there is a dry but uneven and generally questionable road ahead (lane), then it is usually enough to turn on the lower row. And move forward according to the situation - where exactly by 2n (this is approximately the same as 1c) and can even be up to 5v (this is something between 2v and 3v - you can accelerate up to 80 kilometers), where there is a hillock - reducing the speed and passing down to 1N.

If there is a slippery and highly questionable area ahead (mud, snow, puddle, ford), then stop and turn on the lock and the lower row. Then it may be too late - if you wait until the moment when the car starts to stop for natural reasons (lack of momentum or wheels slip), then there is a noticeable chance not to move from the place anymore.

What about the city?

Fine. I sit high and look far away, I am not afraid of hatches with tram rails, and a snowdrift at the entrance to the courtyard is not a terrible and terrible insurmountable obstacle. The doors are just not enough - it is not very convenient to carry passengers in the field, there are problems with the entrance and exit (as on all two-doors). In terms of dynamics in urban conditions (speed 40-90 km), it is quite at the level of the rest of the flow, in terms of ease of control, etc. - a Lada like a Lada. On the other hand, it is durable (of course, you should not go to the frontal line, but small collisions often do not even leave a trace - with such and such bumpers), load-carrying (there is no problem to take half a ton of cargo, if only it fits inside), short (essential when parking) The turning radius is only larger, but what to do is pay for the front-wheel drive of huge 16 "wheels.

Will it bring you ...?

Will take you. As well as bringing, the carrying capacity and cargo capacity of the cornfield is very impressive. Rigid energy-intensive suspension springs are able to keep the car well away from the travel stops even if passengers are loaded there according to the principle "as much as fit" or the load "as much as fit". Well, unless of course you do not load it with bricks, bags of cement or ingots of gold. She almost does not feel 200 kg of load (and in a classic Zhiguli, mud flaps rub on the asphalt if you push so much into the trunk, and the side members burst).

For transportation of goods in the field, the rear seat is folded down. The backrest forward and then it, together with the pillow, forward again. Unlike 2121, for a complete cleaning of the seat, it is necessary to flip the hinges of its attachment - this is described in the instructions.

But there is also a second option for folding the seat, which is not described in the instructions and is generally little known. It turns out that the Niva rear seat can be folded out completely horizontally! To do this, you need to turn it out - pull the loops between the pillow and the backrest back and forth, thereby placing the pillow vertically up and the back horizontally back. Then push the backrest under the brackets of its attachment for the rear wheel arches and lower everything down. It turns out an almost flat surface from the front seat (and even the front panel if you unfold the passenger seat - you just need to pull out the headrest) to the rear door. Two and a half meters - more than in the Volga-"shed" (her right seat is flush with the back seat). And decently high, up to the roof. You can carry something long or pack up for the night in nature.

VAZ 2121, in other words, "Niva" - entered mass production in the 70s of the last century. Such a car belongs to the class of off-road passenger cars. In the history of the domestic car industry, Niva became the first car in the design of which four-wheel drive was used. Let's take a closer look at the transmission device. This should be done in order to understand why, given the almost 40-year history of the Niva transmission, it differs from many other similar machines equipped with all-wheel drive and the ability to switch in the classical way or using a viscous coupling.

The transmission in the Niva family (2121, 2131) is designed in such a way that four-wheel drive is supplied. The presence of an interaxle differential is also characteristic. The transmission includes a gearbox, a transfer case, a pair of cardan shafts, and both axles. The 2131 features a long body. Otherwise, the predominant similarities with the first model can be traced throughout. From the motor there is a transfer of torque through the gearbox to the "razdatka", and she, in turn, transmits the moment to the bridges.

Then it goes through the driveshafts to the gearboxes. The front gearbox transmits torque to the wheels through a differential and constant velocity joints. Likewise for the rear, also protruding leading, wheels. Precisely because the torque is distributed to 4 wheels simultaneously, the drive is called complete. The designation is as follows - 4WD. Another domestic car, arranged according to a similar principle to the Niva, is the UAZ.

Such a mechanism is a kind of distributor of traction forces coming from the motor to the wheels. An important feature is that the latter have the ability to rotate at different speeds. The importance of the presence of a differential mechanism is due to the fact that during the turning maneuvers, the inside wheel makes fewer turns, if we compare them with the number of outside turns.

In the absence of a differential mechanism, this would cause disastrous consequences, such as wear and damage, because the following would turn out: one wheel would be in the axle box when cornering, and the other would simply rub against the road surface. The design features of the Niva transmission provide for the presence of 3 differentials. They are located in each of the axles and in the dispensing mechanism.

When the machine is moving on a flat road and in a straight line with differentials, the traction force is divided equally between all 4 wheels. In case of insufficient adhesion of the wheels to the coating, the appearance of slipping, the differentials will redistribute the load on the skidding and sliding wheel so that the first receives more force, and the second, respectively, less.

We have already mentioned the UAZ. Despite many similarities, it should be understood that the all-wheel drive of the VAZ is made in the "pat-time" style. This means that when connected, the axles are firmly connected to each other, and the rotation occurs at the same speeds. Such a device imposes some restrictions on the use of all-wheel drive - the possibility of its use only in cases where road conditions allow slippage. In cases with hard asphalt roads and tracks, it is recommended to switch the car to mono drive mode.

Blocking differentials

Sometimes you can come across a misconception about why you need a small knob next to the shift lever on the Niva. Some car owners believe that it is needed to connect the front drive. However, the front-wheel drive of this car is permanently connected. As well as the back. All-wheel drive is permanent in cars of the Niva family. The handle is actually used to switch the operating modes of the transfer gear differential.

In the "forward" position, the work of the differential proceeds normally, but if you move it backward, the differential is blocked, and the forces from the motor go to the axle differentials, which makes the drive more rigid. It should be noted that there are also special types of locks for the front and rear axles.

In theory, when applied in conditions where the car is stuck, it will be able to overcome an obstacle if there is sufficient grip on at least one wheel. Differential lock in this case is best done before overcoming an obstacle, but should never be done after hitting a difficult area to overcome. This use of interlocking will avoid wear and damage to the transmission.

A number of gears down

A common misconception is that shifting the rear handle can increase the power performance of the motor. But this is not true. It serves to change the gear ratio between the motor and the wheels. With its increase, the traction forces on the wheels will increase. There is also a reduction gear in the dispensing mechanism.

Here its work can be controlled by means of the rear handle. When shifting the lever back, we will have a gear ratio of 2.135 - this is the low gear. It is recommended to engage such a downshift only when the machine is stationary and the clutch is depressed. Despite the fact that the manual does not contain such a restriction, it is not recommended for beginners and inexperienced Niva drivers to switch while driving, since the Niva dispensing mechanism is not equipped with a synchronizer.

To make driving your car comfortable, check out some important points:

1. The usual, standard front and rear handle positions are forward and backward, respectively. Driving in this mode can and should be carried out on areas characterized by an even and smooth surface.
2. Locking the differential by shifting the front handle to the rear position is best on slippery roads. Such a measure will give Niva stability. It should be understood that after overcoming the problem area, the handle will need to be returned to its original position.
3. As noted earlier, downshifting should be activated in front of a potential obstacle, but not while the car is already stuck.
4. It should be understood that it is sometimes impossible to activate the lock on a stationary car, even if you squeeze the clutch. This may be because the clutch teeth are pressed against the gear teeth. In this case, you can try to activate the lock by starting a slow movement and performing a gentle turn. If problems arise with disengaging the lock, then it is recommended to follow the same procedure with the clutch depressed and a little shaking of the steering wheel.

All-wheel drive Niva (VAZ-2121) and its features

Any VAZ car is different from the Niva. And not only VAZ, but any other. The fact is that Niva has permanent four-wheel drive. This required the introduction of a transfer case into the transmission (the connection between the wheels and the engine). Because of this difference, there is a lot of confusion and many questions. Here are the answers to some of them.

1. No car without differential... What it is? This is a mechanical device that distributes the tractive effort from the engine to two wheels and allows them to spin at different speeds. A differential is vital for a car - when turning, the inner wheel travels less, and the outer wheel travels more. If there was no differential, there would be heavy wear of the rubber or when cornering, one wheel would skid, rotating faster, the other would brake, rotating slower. All this would provoke a skid. And the axle loads would be very high.

In the drive transmission of the Niva such differentials three... one in each axle (interwheel), so that the wheels have different speeds of rotation and one more, center. located in the razdatka, to distribute traction between the axles. This differential allows the wheels of different axles to move at different speeds. In a normal straight-line motion without slipping, the tractive effort is halved by all differentials, and the same torque is supplied to all wheels. When the wheel slips through the differential, all the torque will go to the skid wheel, and the traction force of the other wheels will decrease.

2. One of the main misconceptions regarding the Niva drive, it is a myth about the possibility of connecting the front drive with the front handle "transfer case"... The fact is that the front end of the Niva is always on, it is a car with a permanent all-wheel drive. And the mentioned handle changes the work of the transfer case differential. When the handle is in the forward position, the differential works, in the reverse position it is locked. Why is this necessary? When the lock is disabled, the traction force is equally distributed between the axles, but if the center differential is blocked, then the traction force is distributed in a completely different way. In this case, the tractive effort is transferred towards greater resistance. If, for example, the rear wheel slips, then all the moment is spent on the slipping wheel. But if you turn on the inter-axle lock, then the torque will begin to flow to the front axle, and the Niva will be able to overcome the obstacle. If at the same time the front wheel also stalls, then the Niva will definitely not be able to leave. True, if you put an interwheel differential lock, and there are such automatic locking differentials, then the Niva will be able to leave on one wheel.

3. Another misconception associated with the Niva drive: when shifting the rear handle (large) we increase the engine power... This is not true. This knob can be used to change the gear ratio between the wheels and the engine for the transmission and to change the tractive effort on the wheels. In the razdatka, in addition to the differential, there is a reduction gearbox, which is like a two-stage gearbox. The operation of this gearbox is controlled by this handle. When engaging a low gear, we shift the gearbox operation towards the transmission of increased tractive effort. the speed of movement is significantly reduced.

Therefore, before off-roading, it is best to engage a lower gear, which will increase traction. It is best to turn it on and off when the vehicle is stationary.

http://auto-vnedorozhnik.ru

When creating the first SUVs, almost no manufacturer thought about such a component as comfort. And why is this, if the main consumers of such machines then were the armed forces. But over time, many began to think about the development of a car that combines the high cross-country ability of an SUV and the comfort of a family sedan. It is gratifying that our country was one of the pioneers in this.

The history of the creation of the domestic SUV produced so far began in the summer of 1970. The newly launched Volzhsky Automobile Plant was visited by Chairman of the Council of Ministers Alexei Nikolaevich Kosygin. Then the question arose about the possibility of creating a comfortable car with a 4x4 wheel arrangement, intended for agricultural workers. At that time, one phrase from a high official was enough to start work on an all-wheel drive car. And not only at the WHA. Many automobile factories of the USSR presented their projects. This is not to say that the birth of a compact all-terrain vehicle was simple. Only seven years after Kosygin's visit, on April 5, 1977, the serial production of the VAZ2121 began. But the result was impressive. Suffice it to say that the design of the car turned out to be so innovative for that time that later many of the ideas applied on it migrated to the models of leading world manufacturers, and the Niva itself is still the most popular SUV in Russia.

Body and interior

Unlike the overwhelming majority of all-terrain vehicles of thirty years ago, the Niva lacks a supporting frame. Its role is played directly by the power structure of the body. As with all products of domestic manufacturers, its corrosion resistance leaves much to be desired. Therefore, thrifty owners perceive the annual anti-corrosion treatment of the car as inevitable, akin to trips to scheduled maintenance.

However, even if this rule is observed, very few people succeed in delaying the formation of through holes in the rapids for a long time. In addition, it is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the ventilation holes in the lower edges of doors and thresholds (if they are clogged with dirt or anticorrosive compounds, moisture begins to accumulate in the internal cavities of these parts, which significantly accelerates the corrosion process). With the frequent acquaintance of the car with domestic anti-icing agents, the spars in the front of the car very quickly rust, and traces of corrosion in the welding places of body elements may appear already in the first year of operation. But, perhaps, the most vulnerable place is the part of the floor in the area of \u200b\u200bthe transfer case mounting. In the absence of proper processing, it simply rots. Vibrations from the transmission also contribute to the destruction of this area. Therefore, many experienced "nivovody", often leaving the hard surface, reinforce this place with an additional sheet of iron. The pre-styled version of the Niva with the factory index of 2121 had a short tailgate: its lower edge is one of the fastest decaying places in the car. On the updated model 21213, the cargo compartment door opening was lowered to the rear bumper, and the corrosion resistance of the third door was slightly increased. By the way, if on the VAZ-2121 it can only be opened from the outside, then on the modernized version it can be opened exclusively from the passenger compartment by the handle located at the knee of the rear left passenger.

An interesting feature in the body structure for those who often use the Niva as a tow truck. If the front towing eye is bolted directly to the side member and withstands heavy loads, then the rear is attached to the joint of three body parts, therefore, there are cases when, under heavy loads, it was torn out along with part of the elements of the body itself

Engine

The first serial VAZ-2121 was equipped with a 1.6-liter carburetor engine inherited from the VAZ-2106 model. The engine had an overhead camshaft driven by a roller multi-row chain. In general, the power unit is considered to be quite reliable and unpretentious. A little later, for countries where the tax depends on the engine size, a version with a 1.3-liter engine was prepared. We practically do not find such specimens. After modernization in 1994, the car, which received the index 21213, was equipped with a 1.7-liter carburetor engine with a contactless ignition system. In comparison with the unit of its predecessor, it had a noticeably better traction on the "bottom", but at the same time it was more prone to detonation when consuming low-quality fuel. VAZ-2131 was equipped with 1.8 liter engines.

On all carburetor versions, the cooling system used a radiator blower with a mechanical drive from the crankshaft. A significant disadvantage of this scheme is insufficient air flow to the radiator when the engine is idling. Therefore, in traffic jams, especially in hot weather, the operating temperature rises very quickly above the critical value. The result is a banal overheating, which, if not prevented in time, can "get" to a serious engine repair. This problem was eliminated only with the advent of the VAZ-21214, where two electric fans are installed. These vehicles do not have frequent overheating problems. In addition, the engine of this version received an injection system instead of a carburetor. Both the central GM firm and the multi-point Bosch were used. The gas distribution system was also slightly reworked, using hydraulic clearance compensators in the valve drive. On the one hand, this innovation helped to get rid of the frequent procedure for adjusting them, and on the other hand, the engine became more demanding on the quality of the oil.

Expert opinion

Most often, the following engine malfunctions are encountered on the Niva: the timing chain tensioners and dampers fail, after the overhaul, the partition of the fourth cylinder becomes thinner, and the engine begins to overheat. On machines 2121 and 21213, a mechanically driven fan was installed, so the engine often overheats at idle.

As for the transmission: the fifth gear often "flies out", since the load on the box, designed for the VAZ-2106, is much higher here. The clutch usually withstands 40-50 thousand km, but when doing off-roading, it can be burned in one day. The elastic coupling of the flush shaft wears out over time, as a result of which vibrations are significantly increased. The crosses need regular maintenance.

Ball joints in the front suspension also serve 40-50 thousand. The upper right rear silent block, located next to the exhaust system, overheats and breaks down faster than others. Sometimes the support axle of the front lower arm bends, it has to be strengthened. The style of driving influences the wear of the steering rods - they fail earlier in the "racers".

Transmission

The highlight of the car is the permanent four-wheel drive. Starting from the very first "Niva" to this day, the scheme has not changed. A symmetrical free differential is used as a mechanism that distributes torque between the axles. To increase cross-country ability, it has the ability to force blocking. In addition, as befits a serious SUV, the transfer case has a reduction row.

The torque from the transfer case to the drive axles is transmitted through shafts with two cardan joints. The main disadvantage of the Niva transmission is the increased vibration. If on a well-adjusted and serviceable car they are almost not felt, then at the slightest imbalance in one of the elements responsible for the transmission of torque, the comfort in the cabin is noticeably worse. There are plenty of reasons for the appearance of vibrations - this is a sour cross in the cardan, and a biting CV joint of the flush shaft, and broken spline joints, as well as a misalignment of the transfer case. Sometimes, during long-term operation with such a malfunction, the eyes of the body of this unit may burst. However, due to the fact that they are not molded together with the body, their replacement is not difficult.

Due to the unification of the vehicle design with the then produced VAZ passenger cars, the crankcase of the original transfer case is spaced apart from the gearbox crankcase borrowed from the classic "Zhiguli". Until 1994, an elastic compensating coupling and a universal joint were used as an intermediate shaft between the transfer case and the gearbox. After 1994, the output shaft of the gearbox and the input shaft of the transfer case began to connect the drive shaft, in which the cross was replaced by a constant velocity joint. Thanks to this solution, vibrations were slightly reduced. By the way, recently many owners began to use a Chevrolet Niva shaft with a more efficient torsional vibration damper.

On many vehicles that have not been used outside the asphalt, the transfer box control mechanism may acidify. Since 1999, gears with fine-modular teeth have been used in it, as a result of which it was possible to significantly reduce the noise from the transmission. Starting with model 21213, they began to install a five-speed manual transmission instead of a four-speed one. By the way, if the "four-stage" was considered an almost eternal unit, then with the addition of one more stage, problems arose. Due to the oil starvation of the fifth gear block, their teeth crumble over time, and the housing in the place where this gear works can crack. Sometimes this happens after a run of only 30 thousand km. Repair will cost about 4000 rubles.

The constant velocity joints in the front wheel drive are quite reliable. However, with frequent off-road forays, their anthers quickly wear out and break. Therefore, you need to closely monitor them, otherwise breakage is inevitable.

The rear axle is a continuous beam, which usually does not cause any special problems. By the way, if it still has to be repaired, then we must remember that the details of this unit are not interchangeable on modern and pre-styling versions.

Chassis

Independent front and rear-dependent spring suspensions provide good handling on hard surfaces and a decent ride. The weak point in the front is the ball joints, which sometimes do not take care of even 40 thousand km. The springs practically do not sag, keeping the ground clearance unchanged for almost the entire life of the car. With careful operation, there are no problems with shock absorbers, which sometimes can last more than 100 thousand km. The bipods of the steering gear and the pendulum arm of the worm steering mechanism of machines manufactured before 1994 differ from those installed later. In this case, the effort on the steering wheel of the latter is noticeably less, but the turning diameter is larger. During the retrofitting of the swing arms, the plastic bushings were replaced by plain bearings, although the former are considered more reliable. The steering shaft has also changed: on the VAZ-21213, instead of a solid one, they began to use a safety one, consisting of several parts. Bearings in the hubs of both the front and rear wheels do not cause any particular problems, however, periodic adjustment of the clearances by tightening the hub nuts is required.

Brake system

Regardless of the year of manufacture, the car was equipped with front disc and rear drum brakes. The system includes one circuit acting on the front wheels, the second on all wheels. The front brake pads most often need to be replaced after 20-30 thousand kilometers, and the rear ones after 60-70 thousand kilometers. When replacing the front ones, it is recommended to clean and lubricate the caliper guides, as they can sour over time. The brakes of the rear wheels of cars of the first years of production require constant adjustment of the clearance. Cars since 1994 of release do not need this operation, since the working cylinders from the VAZ-2101 were replaced with those that were used on the VAZ-2105 model. At the same time, the vacuum amplifier was replaced with a more powerful one from the VAZ-2108. The brake fluid is changed every 20-30 thousand km or every two years, whichever comes first.

And other diseases ...

The traditional Niva disease is the same as that of all classic Zhiguli - frequent leaks of the cockpit of the cabin stove. A car can be cured of it only by replacing the factory product with ceramics, which is considered more reliable and durable.

In view of the rather primitive circuit of electrical equipment, there are practically no serious problems with it. And the biggest troubles in the electrical circuit arise due to the fault of oxidized contacts due to not the most successful wiring.

All fuses are grouped in two blocks located on the left under the instrument panel. It is very important that, due to the simplicity of the design, the transmission and reception of electricity from another vehicle does not pose any problems.

In conclusion, I would like to say that, despite a lot of shortcomings (the main of which, by the way, are far from a design miscalculation), "Niva" has been holding on to the conveyor for the fourth decade and, apparently, is not going to retire in the near future. And who else can offer such a car at a very budget price?

And as for congenital and acquired ailments, in our native land, they have long and quite successfully learned to deal with them even in the most average hand of a car service.

The main technical characteristics of the "Niva"

Approximate prices for spare parts *, rub.

* For modification with a 3-door body (after restyling 1994)

All off-road enthusiasts purchase all-wheel drive off-road vehicles to overcome various obstacles. Four-wheel drive is a system for distributing speed and power along two axles of the vehicle. Cars equipped with all-wheel drive have permanent all-wheel drive or plug-in. To ensure the transmission of angular speed to all wheels, a transfer case is installed in cars of this type. There will be a further article about her.

What is a car transfer case

The transfer case is the mechanism that distributes the torque from the engine to the drive mechanisms, that is, the differentials. Most often, the transfer case is used in off-road vehicles, as well as in some sports cars, which increases their stability on the road.

In SUVs, the transfer case performs the following functions:

1. Distributes the moment between the axles, which ensures the best cross-country ability of the car, and in this way the full potential of the engine is realized. The possibility of such a phenomenon as power circulation is automatically eliminated.
2. Increases torque to the drive wheels by using a downshift, this helps drivers overcome serious off-road obstacles.
3. Provides a stable position and movement of the car at low speed when all the torque is involved.

What are the transfer cases

Transfer cases can be divided into several types:

1. By switching positions:
   1. Non-switchable. A car with permanent all-wheel drive, without the ability to turn it off;
   2. Connectable. In this case, if necessary, you can connect an auxiliary bridge, while one of the axes will always be the leading one, the other is connected;
   3. Equal. With such a transfer case, any axle can be driven, depending on the choice.
2. By control system:
   1. Automatic transfer control. All shifts take place automatically using a torque converter or servo drive. All decisions about the need for any switching are made by the electronic control unit. Such a system can also be called electronic all-wheel drive. The main plus is that the electronics correctly distribute the torque between all wheels. And the disadvantage is that it all depends on electronics and hydraulics, and such a system also adds extra weight to the car.
   2. Semi-automatic. The main difference from the automatic machine is that the driver can intervene in the all-wheel drive control at any time through various buttons on the panel. This allows the driver to independently choose the driving mode depending on the situation and need, namely, connect or disconnect the all-wheel drive at a certain moment.
   3. Manual or mechanical. The main governing body of the mechanism is a lever brought into the car salon near the gear lever.

      The main advantage of such a system is its reliability, as well as the absence of the risk of failure of the electronics. But the downside is that you cannot switch modes on the go, for this you first have to completely stop.

Handout on Niva 21213: basic malfunctions and their elimination

The Niva has excellent off-road potential, and that is why it becomes an indispensable assistant when going out into the wilderness. But, as with any car with a domestic SUV, problems can also occur.

Like any mechanism, the distribution box also fails, and by the following symptoms it can be easily determined:

1. Delays when turning on the front axle, turning it off abruptly. This situation can only happen in the case of early modifications with a demultiplier. All Niva cars have permanent four-wheel drive, but many craftsmen upgrade their cars, after which they have the ability to turn off the front axle.
2. Constant overheating under load. A possible reason will be a low oil level, if the reason is in it, then the oil must be added, if not, then this is caused by increased friction of the parts.
3. Increased oil consumption for the gearbox. The reason is any leakage due to wear of the oil seals, poorly tightened crankcase bolts, or simply an incompletely tightened drain plug.
4. Looseness of the transfer case and gearbox mountings. Leads to strong vibrations in the passenger compartment. May be associated with fastening mechanisms or centering the transfer case.
5. Vibrations can also be caused by damaged transmission mounts, this issue is solved by simply replacing broken parts.
6. Looseness of the flange bolts, as well as its wear. It is solved by replacing or tightening the bolts, in the worst case - by purchasing an intermediate shaft. This breakdown leads to noise and vibration at first only when starting from a place of the car, later it turns into a constant hum at a speed of over 80 kilometers per hour.
7. Seized driveshaft joints. Breakage occurs due to the drying out of the elements; to eliminate it, you will have to renew the lubricant with the help of a syringe. If the re-injection did not help, then you will have to replace the whole part.
8. Similarly, the CV joint can jam, this is either due to a lack of lubrication, or due to deformation. In case of severe wear, you will have to buy the entire intermediate shaft, if it was only about the lubricant, you can simply replace it.
9. Cardan backlash is solved by replacement.
10. Differential wear can lead to noise and crackling when driving in corners, only replacing the differential will correct this cause.
11. Satellites and their obstructed movement are also a possible cause of cornering noise. This is due to burrs that can be removed with a file.
12. Often, it is not the transfer case itself that fails, but the lever, rod and fork, which impede the full control of the unit. Also, these parts can simply stick, for this they need to be cleaned of dirt or, in case of severe wear, replaced.

How to remove the distributor from the Niva

There is nothing complicated in the removal and repair of the demultiplier, this procedure can be carried out by any person who has the right tool. The main difficulty of this car is that the transfer case is not attached directly to the checkpoint itself, as in modern SUVs, in Niva they are connected using intermediate shafts.

The dismantling of the unit itself is quite simple; for this, the car is driven into the inspection pit. All levers in the passenger compartment are set to neutral. Then the plastic cover is removed from the tunnel and all covers and handles are removed. Then the hatch is unscrewed, which opens access to the distributor. The speedometer sensor is also removed, after which the cardan shafts are disconnected. At the end, it remains to unscrew several fasteners of the box itself, and then remove it. After the mechanism is removed, you can proceed to disassemble it for further replacement of worn parts. In general, the installation takes place in the reverse order, but it is worth paying attention to centering the transfer case with the gearbox, that is, it is necessary to convince the flange of the gearbox drive shaft to dock with the transfer case intermediate shaft, after which you can tighten the mounting bolts of the range itself.

Do-it-yourself Niva 21213 handout repair (video)

Outcome

Niva has permanent four-wheel drive, and the car itself is inexpensive. And that is why, in terms of reliability and price, it is the best fit for outdoor enthusiasts. Maintenance of an all-wheel drive for this car will cost symbolic money, however, the very design of the mechanism has a fairly high reliability for such a price.

Every decent SUV should have a transfer case in its design. VAZ 2121 Niva, as a decent SUV, also has RK on board, but not all owners use it correctly, and we are not talking about the device. In order to at least slightly dispel the aura of mystery on the distributor, we tried to describe its structure and features of operation.

Niva handout - device and diagram

Everything that you see in the drawing is called a transfer case with a range multiplier. It is easier to understand how it works if you consider its purpose and features of work.

Despite this, we have presented an open source diagram that fully describes the transfer case design.

Why such difficulties? Build a second gearbox to boost output torque? Exactly. Everything will become clearer when we consider the purpose of the VAZ 2121 transfer case. Everything seems to be simple - the transfer case is needed in order to correctly distribute the torque between the driving axles of the car. But not only for this. Another important function of the transfer case is to increase the output torque. Scientifically, this is called a demultiplier.

That is, such important functions of the handout can be distinguished:

• distribution of torque between the axles of the vehicle;
• center differential lock;
• the ability to disable one of the driving axles;
• the ability to mount a power take-off to ensure the operation of additional equipment;
• increasing the torque on the driving wheels by engaging a low gear.

The order of work of the distributor VAZ 2121

When the vehicle is driven on a flat, dry road, the grip is satisfactory and there is no need to use the additional functions of the RC. The rotation of the drive shaft is transmitted equally to the front and rear axles. Thus, the amount of torque transmitted to each of the axles directly depends on the load on each of them.

... and a gasket.

We remove the rear axle drive shaft from the rear cover and disassemble it in the same way as the front housing shaft of the VAZ 2131.

Rear axle drive shaft parts and rear cover.

Using the "13" key, unscrew the two nuts securing the gear lever bracket to the transfer case housing ...

… And remove the gearshift bracket with the lever.

Disconnect the gear lever from the bracket in the same way as removing the differential lock lever.
Having finally unscrewed the nut of the drive shaft flange, ...

… Remove the flange.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew three nuts ...

… And remove the drive shaft front bearing cover.

The connection is sealed with a gasket.

Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the four nuts securing the hatch.

Remove the hatch and gasket.

We remove the lever spring from the shift fork rod and move the rod cover.

Inside the hatch with a 10-ring spanner, unscrew the bolt securing the plug to the rod.

To prevent the ball and spring of the retainer from jumping out, ...

… Cover the hole with your finger and gradually pull out the stock with pliers.

In this case, the ball of the retainer falls out through the side opening of the crankcase.

Remove the retainer spring with tweezers.

Pulling the rod further, remove the shift clutch fork ...

... and a spacer plastic sleeve.

We take out the stock.

The rods of the differential lock fork and the gear shift fork of the VAZ 2121 are sealed with rubber rings. Let's show their removal using the example of the gear shift fork ring.

Prying off with a screwdriver, ...

… Take out the rubber sealing ring.

We unlock the nuts of the rear bearings of the drive and intermediate shafts of the VAZ 2131.

With a spanner wrench "27" we unscrew one of the nuts, keeping the shafts from turning by the other nut with a wrench or a head of the same dimension.

Remove the nut and washer.

Insert the propeller shaft mounting bolts into the flange holes and put the flange on the splines of the drive shaft of the transfer case of the VAZ 2121.

We unscrew the second nut, keeping the shafts from turning with a mounting blade inserted between the bolts.

Remove the nut and washer. Remove the drive shaft flange.

Remove the drive shaft front bearing thrust washer.

Using the "13" key, unscrew the three remaining nuts securing the front cover of the transfer case.

The remaining nuts of this cover were removed when removing the drive shaft front bearing cover, the front axle drive housing and the gear lever bracket.

Remove the front cover of the VAZ 2131 transfer case with a differential.

Remove the gasket from the transfer case crankcase studs.

Using the pliers, remove the adjusting ring of the front bearing of the differential housing.

Disconnect the Niva 2121 differential and the front cover of the transfer case.

We take out (or knock out through a drift from soft metal) the outer ring of the front bearing of the intermediate shaft from the seat of the front cover.

Using pliers, unclench the locking ring of the front bearing of the differential housing ...

... and take it off.

Remove the spring washer.

We install a suitable stop for the puller screw in the hole of the front case of the Niva 2131 differential ...

... and a three-armed puller ...

… We press the front bearing.

If necessary, remove the rear bearing of the Niva 2121 in the same way.
We put marks on the front and rear differential housings so as not to disturb the balance of the unit during assembly.
Clamping the differential case in a vice with soft metal jaw pads, ...

… With a 17 ”spanner wrench, unscrew the six bolts holding the driven gear, front and rear differential cases.

Disconnect the front and rear differential housings.

In this case, the driven gear remains on the front housing.

We knock it off the body through a drift made of soft metal.

Disconnect the driven gear and the front differential housing.

Remove the support washer from the front axle drive gear ...

... and take out the gear itself.

Using pliers, unclench the locking ring of the satellite axis and remove it.

Remove the Niva 2131 satellite axle spring washer.

Hooking with the pliers on the other retaining ring, we take out the axis of the satellites.

We take out the support washer and satellite from the rear differential housing.

Taking out the second satellite and its washer, we remove the rear axle drive gear.

To remove the input and intermediate shafts ...

… With pliers, remove the locating ring of the rear bearing of the drive shaft.

Similarly, dismantle the intermediate shaft rear bearing ring.

We take out the drive shaft from the crankcase ...

... and the intermediate shaft.

We clamp the spline part of the drive shaft in a vice with soft metal jaw pads, ...

... and, hooking the puller paws on the gear shift clutch, ...

… Remove the rear bearing, bushing, low gear and clutch.

Remove the coupling hub and the top gear from the shaft.

With a puller we press the front bearing of the drive shaft.

Remove the rollers from the front bearing of the intermediate shaft with a screwdriver ...

... and remove the separator.

We clamp the intermediate shaft of the Niva 2121 in a vice with soft metal jaw pads.

Prying with two assembly blades, we press the inner ring of the front bearing ...

... and take it off.

We remove the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft in the same way as the front bearing of the drive shaft.
We assemble the transfer case of the Niva 2131 in the reverse order.
When assembling the center differential, we combine the marks on its housings.
We install a spring washer on the axis of the satellites from the side of the blind hole at the end of the axis.
Press on with suitable pipe sections ...

... inner race of the front intermediate shaft bearing, ...

... front axle drive shaft bearing (pipe rests on the inner ring) ...

... and differential bearings.

In the same way we press on the bearing of the rear axle drive shaft, the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft, the front and rear bearings of the drive shaft.
We install the drive and intermediate shafts in the transfer case at the same time.
All sealing gaskets are lubricated with a thin layer of silicone sealant.
After tightening the nuts of the rear bearings of the drive and intermediate shafts to the specified torque, we lock the nuts by pressing their collars into the grooves of the shanks of the shafts.
After assembly, fill in oil (see Oil change).

Stud attachment point:

1 - crankcase;
2 - bushing;
3 - the rest of the lug;
4 - hairpin

Repair of the transfer case crankcase stud fastening

At the transfer case of the Niva 2121, the right (long) boss bursts, into which a special pin is pressed, securing the box to the bracket. For repairs, you can grind the bushing out of duralumin, as shown in the figure, saw down all the ribs on the remaining part of the boss and saw off its outer diameter to fit the bushing tightly. Having installed the fastening pin in the hole, you need to press the bushing until it stops and weld it around the perimeter to the box body.

Transfer case VAZ 2121, Niva 2131

• - Dispenser device
• - Features of the design of the transfer case
• - Causes of vibration in the transfer case
• - Changing the oil in the transfer case
• - Replacing the transfer case oil seals
• - Speedometer gear housing
• - Transfer case suspension bracket
• - Differential lock lamp switch
• - Removal and installation of the transfer case
• - Disassembly and assembly of the transfer case

Nodes and transmission device VAZ 2121, VAZ 2131

Service and operation of the Niva 2121 box. Instructions for the repair of the cardan, axle and wheel drive Niva 2131.

1:1094 2:10498

Today, probably, every Nivavod has heard and knows about the wonderful "know-how" - Anti-vibration handles for handouts from niva-komfort.ru
The new tuning levers of the transfer case are assembled as a gearshift lever. These are no longer just metal rods, but levers with "stuffing" containing antiresonant bushings, which absorb vibration and noise - as I write about them on the site.

I found references to the Shniv clutch on the Internet, then I was looking for information on this topic.

rod to be replaced

this one no longer fits

At the service station, he began to persuade the master to screw it to the car - he completely refused. He does not repair the checkpoint, and even more so, the RK, but I persuaded him. While the checkpoint was being removed / installed, this device was also screwed in the "heap" - nothing complicated. It was more surprising how I could switch the control gear before when the old levers were removed - they practically did not move on their axles at all!

The new lever went into the salon a little in the wrong place, took aim and had to remove the RK again (it had not yet been fastened to the checkpoint and the gimbals had not been hung) to bend the lever "in place" - we hit the first time! (thanks to the master, he has a "diamond eye") and put everything in place.
I ran to the store and bought a rubber cover for the gearshift lever (a native detail) - it sat very well on the base of the new RK handle, and "nailed" the bottom of the cover with a tunnel lining, setting it into one of the holes for the old levers. And the second hole was "temporarily" plugged with a piece of parallelogram.

The best part is the anti-vibration handles! When I put the wings, I didn't think about it at all. It seemed to me that everything was standard and there was nothing like that in the fact that I put a set of bushings from the gearbox and a trimmed gearshift lever on the RK - I did just that.
As a result, I "killed several birds with one stone" at once:
- one lever on the RK while maintaining its performance;
- Smooth soft shifting like in ShNiva;
- the handle of the RK lever from the shniva (instead of the "clown" balls);
- "anti-vibration" handle, with one instead of two.

Two years later, I learned about the proprietary miracle pens and was happy that it cost me $ 20 instead of $ 65. for the yellow "invention".

The impressions from the installation are the most positive - I advise everyone! Doing it yourself, with welding, is not difficult, and the result surpasses everything.
Well, now in more detail:

1) If you want quiet levers, you can do this:

But we will go the other way, by altering the lever according to the principle of a checkpoint or RK Niva-Chevrolet. Everyone knows that there are ready-made, yellow levers:

The price of the issue without delivery is 2000r, which is not at all budgetary. Therefore, after reading articles on D2 and NivaFAQ, I decided to do it myself:

We go to the store to look for rem. set of backstage checkpoint from the Volga or Gazelle. Everywhere they offer these boxes:

A lot of unnecessary items included

The price is 380-420 rubles per piece, taking into account that you need two, and even the pipes themselves, which are put on top on the wings. As a result, it turns out a little more than 1000 rubles, which also did not suit me and decided to go to the market.

On the market, everything is simpler and there is more choice, you can separately buy only the slide and separately only the tube without the ball (handle) and the lower elastic band (boot).
As a result, we get:

17:1901 17:2068

I will show an example on the lock lever, it has a slight bend to the left.
Before welding:

We get:

19:1184 19:1384

Lever ready

You can use the tubes of the RC levers from Chevrolet Niva, but they are less common and more expensive.

Expenses:
- 2x Backstage checkpoint gazelle \\ volga 200r
- 2x Gear lever tube classic 160r
- 2x Rem. backstage kit for gearbox VAZ 2101-07 40r

Total: 400r

Time and money were well spent, a very useful improvement in the field:
- Solves 90% of the howl from handouts
- Vibration is no longer transmitted to the levers
- Soft inclusion, very similar to the checkpoint

After complete soundproofing, I noticed that a lot of noise was coming from the RK levers. On the Internet I met "tuned" handles, assembled according to the type of gearbox wings, but the price did not suit (2t.r)! You can make such pens yourself.
We need:
1. Gear lever, 5 speed manual gearbox Gazelle lower part (devil) (3302-1702140) 2pcs.

2. VAZ gear lever
(you can use the PK Shniva lever, but I didn't find it, it's not there anywhere)

i used 1 lever from the gazelle (it is the cheapest), and the second lever from the VAZ gearbox was lying in the garage.

3. Canned backstage VAZ-2101, Volga, Gazelle 2pcs

I did everything on the removed transfer case, because I went through the box and changed the clutch

1. Cut off the excess part from the gear lever

cut off one centimeter higher from the end of the constriction

2. Cut off the native PK lever at the beginning of the bend to keep the handle tilted

3. We weld the cut parts

4. Cut the gearshift lever below 1 cm from the thickening

5. cut off the lever on the transfer case leaving 2 cm and weld the cut gearshift lever to it

6. We insert the repair kit into the resulting handle and put it on the distributor.

We do the same with the second handle and get

Also, with the units removed, I missed the tunnel with anti-noise mastic "Barrier".

Laundered and degreased first

Here's what happened:

http://www.4wd.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic\u003d16617, https://www.drive2.ru/l/393589/, https://www.drive2.ru/l/4812485/, https://www.drive2.ru/l/2534985/

36:1764 70097

Transfer case with drive

NOTE
In order to reduce the noise level, the manufacturer has been installing transfer cases with fine-modular gears on Niva cars since 2002. Production of transfer cases with large-module gears at AvtoVAZ has been discontinued. Externally, the modernized transfer cases are no different from those previously produced and assembled are completely interchangeable with them.

The transfer case is used to change the amount of torque and distribute it between the front and rear axles. The box has two gears with gear ratios of 1,200 and 2,135. The front and rear axles are driven constantly and are connected by an interaxle differential, which redistributes the torque between them depending on the resistance to the movement of the wheels. To increase the cross-country ability of the car, the differential can be blocked, while the front and rear drive shafts become rigidly connected to each other (their rotational speeds are equal).

The transfer case is attached to the floor of the body on two rubber-metal brackets. To adjust its position relative to the intermediate shaft flange, the holes in the brackets are made oval, and shims can be installed between them and the body. Centering the transmission is described in the section on Eliminating Transfer Case Vibration.

The body parts of the transfer case are cast from aluminum alloy and connected with studs and nuts. In the upper part of the crankcase there is a hatch closed with a stamped steel cover. The front cover is centered on the crankcase with two locating pins. There are cardboard gaskets between the covers and the crankcase (for repairs, you can use a sealant gasket instead). All shafts (including the speedometer drive shaft), as well as the gear shift and differential lock rods are sealed with oil seals. There are two holes in the front cover - filler (it is also control) and drain.

The drive shaft is mounted on two ball bearings in the seats of the front cover and crankcase. The inner race of the front bearing is clamped between the shaft shoulder and the thrust washer with a self-locking shaft flange nut. The inner race of the rear bearing is clamped between the shaft shoulder and the thrust washer with a nut at the rear end of the shaft. The nut is locked by pressing its edge into the grooves on the shaft. The drive shaft is secured against axial displacement by a locating ring in a groove in the outer ring of the rear bearing and clamped between the crankcase and the rear cover.

There are two drive gears on the drive shaft. Front (large) - top gear, it rotates freely on a heat-treated shaft journal. The rear (smaller) - low gear - rotates freely on a heat-treated bushing installed on the shaft with an interference fit. The gears have two crowns. The helical (large) rims are in constant mesh with the corresponding gears of the intermediate shaft, and the gearshift clutch is connected to the spur (small) rims when the gear is switched on. The clutch moves along a hub rigidly mounted on the splines of the shaft between the drive gears. In the middle position of the clutch, both gears are disengaged ("neutral") and the engine torque is not transmitted to the wheels.

The intermediate shaft is a block of two helical gears that are in constant mesh with the gears of the drive shaft. The front gear also meshes with the driven gear, which is fixed to the differential housing.

The intermediate shaft rotates in two bearings: front - roller, rear - ball. The shaft is secured against axial displacement by a locating ring in the groove in the outer ring of the rear bearing, which is clamped between the crankcase and the rear cover (just like the drive shaft). A steel drive gear of the speedometer drive is pressed into the front end of the shaft. The driven gear wheel of the speedometer drive is plastic, it is installed on a roller rotating in the bushing of the speedometer drive housing. The housing is attached to the front cover of the transfer case.

On a VAZ-21214 car with distributed fuel injection, in addition to the mechanical drive of the speedometer, a speed sensor is installed on the transfer case.

The front end of the front axle drive shaft rests on a ball bearing in the front axle drive housing, which is attached to the front cover of the transfer case. The inner ring of the bearing is clamped between the shaft shoulder and the thrust washer with a self-locking shaft flange nut. The bearing is secured against axial displacement by a retaining ring that fits into the groove of the front axle drive housing. The rear spline end of the shaft is connected to the front axle drive gear of the differential. A spur gear on the shaft serves to lock the differential. The design and installation of the rear axle drive shaft is similar, but there is no gear on it.

The differential housing is split, both parts are connected by six bolts. These bolts also attach the driven gear to the differential housing. The latter is mounted on two ball bearings. The inner ring of the front bearing is held against displacement by a spacer spring washer, which rests on the circlip in the groove of the differential housing. A groove in the outer ring of the bearing contains a locating ring sandwiched between the front transfer case cover and the front axle drive housing. Thus, the differential housing is kept from axial displacement by the front bearing; the rear bearing is not locked. On the front of the differential housing, there are slots along which the locking clutch moves. When the lock is engaged, the clutch is connected to the gear on the front axle drive shaft, connecting it to the differential housing.

The pinion axle is installed in the holes of the differential housing, held by two retaining rings. There is a spring washer under one of the rings, which prevents axial movement of the axis of the satellites. The satellites (bevel gears) located on the axle are in constant mesh with the axle drive gears. Support washers are installed between the differential housing and the satellites. Their thickness is selected so that the axial clearance of the axle drive gears does not exceed 0.10 mm, and the torque of resistance to rotation is 14.7 N.m.

Transfer case control - manual, with a mechanical lever drive. With the rear lever, the driver shifts gears, with the front lever, he engages the differential lock. The design of the gearbox control drives is similar. The arm swings longitudinally on an axle installed in the bracket lugs in front of the transfer case. To reduce friction, plastic bushings are inserted into the hole in the lever. The lower end of the lever enters the groove of the rod and is fixed with a curly spring. The other end of the rod is connected to the fork of the corresponding clutch (gear shift or differential lock) and is locked with a bolt. The stem at the exit from the box is sealed with a gland and protected from dust by a rubber bellows. A ball lock serves to fix the drive in the selected position - a spring-loaded ball enters the grooves on the rods. There are three of them on the gear shift rod - for "neutral", high and low gears, on the differential lock rod - two ("on" and "off"). A switch is screwed into the front axle drive cover, which closes the control lamp circuit when the differential lock is activated.