According to statistics, every car owner, during a long service of the car, experiences problems with traction, depending on the reasons, the car either accelerated poorly, or could not even move at all. In other words, the engine simply does not have enough power to cope with all the loads - to gain speed and revs.

Dashboard

The most interesting thing is that the motor behaves in such situations as completely "healthy". You will not hear from him no noise, no knocking, no other evidence of a malfunction. I would like to note right away that the list of possible causes of power loss is huge and it is very difficult to describe all the malfunctions. We will give a list of only the most common ones, as well as analyze in detail their nature and possible reasons for their appearance.

Top causes of power loss

If no other problems are found along the way, as soon as there is a loss of traction, then first of all it is worth paying attention to the quality. As the practice says, in 51% of cases low-quality fuel is associated with the loss of power. The tank is filled with bad or not appropriate fuel for the given model. It is not uncommon that modern cars, especially foreign-made ones, do not tolerate 92 brands of gasoline. Sometimes it can be done quite simply, it is enough to dilute it with better fuel. Often, such manipulations help with unstable operation of the internal combustion engine, "" rpm and the like. Then along the way there is "" on the tidy.

Owners of gasoline engines can easily check the quality by looking at the candles. If the reason lies in combustion disorders, as well as the presence of impurities, this will be displayed on the candles, soot will appear, and the color will change.

For example, when the fuel is oversaturated with third-party metal-containing components, the skirt and contacts will become reddish. The formation of black carbon is indicative of incomplete combustion of the mixture. In any situation, in case of malfunctions in the combustion processes, the engine loses power.

Also, do not forget that when checking candles, you need to remember about the service life. They are not durable, especially if they were not of high quality initially. Now an interesting fact, if after replacing the entire set of spark plugs, "scale" forms just as quickly and the engine experiences the same problems, then the cause should be looked for in filters or cylinders.

Problems with valve timing arise due to incorrectly installed "marks" of the belt, timing chain. Belts stretch, chains jump, after which, due to ignoring problems, the consequences can be much more sad.

Banal engine wear. Do not forget that used cars lose 10-15% of power on average. If the power loss is much greater in your opinion, then it is wise to check the compression. Weak compression, and this is often less than 10 kg / m. indicates burnt-out cylinder walls, wear of rings, burnout of valves, and the like. Compression data for each model is different, but usually it is 12-14 kg / m. More details about which one you have can be found in the service book.

The reasons are in the transmission. Worn clutch in manual transmission or automatic transmission slipping. It is better to entrust the check to experienced craftsmen, especially for automatic transmissions.

VAZ-2114 cars, from the beginning of production, are equipped with eight-valve engines with a volume of 1.5 liters. Since 2007, they have been equipped with an eight-valve 1.6 liter engine with an environmental class Euro-4. Operation of the car, sometimes not correct, over time presents "surprises". not at full power, the thrust decreases. Let's try to figure out the reasons and methods of elimination.

The dynamics of the car, first of all, depends on the stable and stable operation of the engine. When the indicators of this characteristic decrease, this indicates that there are problems in the operation of the engine.

VAZ-2114 engine

Unstable engine operation is caused by the following:

• The fuel filter is dirty.
• The diaphragm of the fuel pump is clogged.
• Do not work or.
• Insufficient.
• The on-board computer is malfunctioning.
• The nozzles are clogged (cleaning is required or).
• The clutch disc is worn out.
• Malfunctions of sensors that control: the position of the crankshaft; coolant temperature; ; detonation.

These are just some of the possible reasons why the engine can pull poorly throughout the rpm range.

It is worth mentioning about the fuel pump, which fails. The real state of affairs is determined by detailed diagnostics.

A brief analysis of the causes and their consequences for the VAZ-2114

1. Fine filter dirty ... Determined visually. Debris particles present in the fuel tank, gasoline accumulate in the filter, the channels are clogged. Insufficient fuel supply. "Treatment" -.

   Changing the fuel filter

2. The diaphragm of the fuel pump is clogged ... The reason is the same, there are dirt particles in the gasoline. Solved by digging, washing, blowing with compressed air

   We change the grid of the fuel pump

3. Clogged air filter ... For a short time, it is solved by blowing the filter, you can knock on a solid object. Ideally, the filter is replaced with a new one.

   We clean or change the air filter

4. Candles do not work or work poorly ... Determined by inspection, after unscrewing. One of the reasons - . The gaps are checked with a feeler gauge, the necessary one is installed. For this, the side electrode is bent to the required value.

   Checking the gap between the spark plug electrodes

5. Formed. The electrodes are cleaned with sandpaper (zero), cleaned, and the gap is checked.

   Cleaning spark plugs from carbon deposits

6. The serviceability of the spark plugs is checked on a stationary stand. If problems occur, need to be replaced.

   Candles are best checked at a stand in a car service

7. Insufficient compression in the cylinders ... This defect appears as a result of high wear of the cylinder-piston group. The result is increased oil consumption, incomplete combustion of the combustible mixture, and gasoline enters the crankcase. In some cases, it is sufficient to replace the piston rings, in others, an overhaul of the engine is required.

   We measure the compression in each cylinder

8. Failure or breakdown of the electronic control unit ... It is impossible to repair without special knowledge. Diagnostics is carried out with special devices. A flashing is possible, or the control unit changes completely.

   We carry out diagnostics of the control unit

9. Clogged nozzles ... ... There are additives in fuel, but they do not give much effect. Replacement may be required, so read the resource: ““.

   You can clean the nozzles at home

10. The clutch disc is worn out ... In motion, with an increase in revolutions, the car does not pick up the required speed, slipping is felt. Expertly checked by pulling off in fourth gear. If it stalls, everything is in order with the disk, if the engine is running, then there are problems. Solved by replacing the clutch disc.

    Illumination of the Check engine sensor indicates a malfunction of the sensors

conclusions

Maintenance (MOT), which should be carried out according to the manufacturer's recommendations, will avoid many problems. The only question is where to go, at the "kulibins", or at specialized service stations, equipped with the necessary equipment and apparatus. The choice remains with the vehicle owner. The sooner the prerequisites for the failure of a particular part are revealed, the less financial losses in the future.... It should be remembered that timely maintenance increases the safe operation of the vehicle.

Self-diagnosis: causes of low engine power

Poor maintenance can result in reduced engine power.

Low engine power usually means that your engine lacks power during acceleration, or that your engine is suddenly unable to reach normal driving speed. While low engine power may mean that normal wear and tear is gradually taking away a significant portion of your vehicle's power, this manual deals with abnormal power loss - a failure caused by a system or component not working properly due to malfunction or lack of adequate maintenance.

An engine low power condition can be caused by one or more of a long list of components requiring attention. Fortunately, you can narrow the list a little by knowing that some of the most common causes of reduced engine power are related to fuel delivery, ignition, or emissions.

Whether you are dealing with a faulty part or a lack of proper maintenance, the tests and strategies below will help you regain the power of your motor. The tests refer to various systems, specific faults and conditions known to reduce engine power. Finally, you are reminded of some important diagnostics that may apply to your particular case. Each component or condition mentioned includes a What You Can Do section so that you can take some action when you deem it necessary.

Systems that can cause low engine power

We'll look at the systems in order:

1. Ignition system
2. Fuel system
3. Exhaust system
4. Computer system
5. Vacuum leaks
6. Gearbox or clutch
7. Exhaust system
8. Compression

But first, I'm going to list some very simple checks that you should do before you start testing.

Four checks you must make

Here are some important but simple checks to consider first.

1. If you notice right after doing some work on your car, make sure everything is plugged back in. Check for loose hoses, disconnected electrical connectors and loose bolts, and if fluids have been changed, see if the correct engine or transmission oil has been used.
2. ... With insufficient pressure, your tires will wear out faster and the car will consume more fuel to accelerate the car. Check the tire pressure with a pressure gauge when the tires are cold. Inflate the tires 1–3 psi. An inch below the maximum pressure printed on the tire sidewalls.
3. Even (CEL) did not light up,. Perhaps you have pending code to help you determine the cause of the problem. A defective sensor or actuator can cause the car computer (or transmission) to receive incorrect voltage signals, causing the computer to change the air-fuel mixture and drain power from your engine (or transmission). Whatever codes you find, always check the circuit or components indicated in the DTC. It is possible that the error could cause the computer to “think” of a failure in another circuit or component. On some vehicle models, a faulty camshaft position (CMP) sensor can cause a sudden loss of engine power - the computer will most likely set a code if it detects a problem with this sensor.
4. Many GM vehicle models are equipped with a reduced engine power (REP) warning light similar to the check engine light (CEL). When this indicator (or both) comes on, you will notice that the engine is barely responding to the accelerator. This is a scary situation if the problem occurs while driving on the highway or in heavy traffic. The most common triggers of this warning light are the harness connecting the throttle position sensor (TPS), or the TPS itself. Other problems that can trigger the REP indicator are related to the throttle body (including wiring), the oxygen sensor, the accelerator pedal position sensor (or wiring harness), or.

Testing eight systems that can cause low engine power

Now, here are eight systems that typically help reduce energy consumption and how you can test them yourself.

Worn or dirty plugs slow down the engine

Ignition system

Sluggish behavior of the engine can very often be traced back to worn or faulty parts in the ignition system. Several components in the system need service at regular intervals. For example, spark plugs and spark plug wires, but you should also check the ignition coil and ignition timing. If any of these components result in you not getting a good spark, the engine will not develop full power.

What can you do: When you feel like you are not pulling the engine, one of the first checks should be to check the strength of the spark. Use an adjustable spark tester (Thexton is an acceptable brand) to test the quality of the spark. Check for 40 kV and 30 kV. If your spark is unable to close this gap with these settings, you may have worn wires, a weak or faulty distributor, a bad ignition coil, or a bad ignition control module, depending on your particular module. Check subsequent tests and refer to your vehicle repair manual for the correct diagnosis for your specific model. If you don't have a manufacturer's service manual, I highly recommend getting an after-sales service manual for your exact model.

When visually inspecting ignition system components such as distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil, look for traces of carbon, carbon build-up and damage (oxidation). Carbon footprints are like little lines that form around these components. They can shut off the voltage passing through the system, depriving the spark plugs of the required voltage to produce a good spark. Replace them if necessary.

After checking the spark strength, if necessary, check the following individual system components.

Spark plug

Spark plugs can be contaminated with carbon deposits (carbon deposits) and other chemical byproducts, especially if the vehicle is not being serviced according to the suggested schedule.

Dirty spark plugs cannot generate enough spark to ignite the air / fuel mixture. In addition, with high mileage, the gap between the electrodes of the spark contact will increase due to wear.

What can you do: Visually inspect the spark plugs, check the electrode gap with a feeler gauge and adjust if necessary. Your repair manual or service manual for your vehicle has an appropriate spark plug gap. Your service manual can help you analyze your spark plugs, which can tell a lot about the condition of your engine.

Just like spark plugs, spark plug wires wear out and after many kilometers they can prevent the spark from reaching the spark plugs.

What can you do: Check the resistance of each wire with a digital multimeter (DMM) and compare your reading to the specifications in your repair manual. Typically you need about 5000 ohms per foot of wire. Otherwise, replace them with a quality set of wires.

Ignition coil

The ignition coil generates the high voltage required for the spark to bounce between the spark plug electrodes. This voltage is usually between 4,000 and 30,000 volts, depending on the specific vehicle model.

Ignition coils also wear out or fail, resulting in a faint spark, an intermittent spark, or no spark at all.

What can you do: You can check the ignition coil (s) in your vehicle with a DMM using your vehicle repair manual.

Ignition time

Ignition timing refers to the relationship between the spark and the position of the piston in the cylinder during the stroke.

The ignition timing must be correct for correct combustion of the air / fuel mixture. When the ignition is delayed, you may notice an increase in fuel consumption, a decrease in engine power, and poor acceleration.

Timing problems can occur due to a worn (overstretched) or damaged timing belt or chain. Even a 2 or 3 degree difference from the correct time can cause engine problems.

On most modern cars, the ignition timing cannot be adjusted directly, but you can still check the timing yourself. On older models, you can check and adjust the time yourself.

What can you do: Check the ignition timing using the timing indicator and tachometer. If your ignition system uses a distributor, you can adjust the timing yourself if necessary. Refer to your vehicle repair manual. Your manual may also include a service interval for a belt or chain.

A clogged air filter will reduce engine power.

Fuel system

While modern fuel injection systems can be configured in a variety of ways, they all share many common components such as fuel injectors, control modules, and sensors. Any of these components can fail and result in a loss of power to your engine.

The fuel system can be as much of a hassle for you as the ignition system. When the engine is not pulling, there are some details you should check.

The engine stops pulling, possibly the reason is in the fuel filter

Over time, the fuel filter becomes clogged, which reduces fuel consumption and prevents the engine from accelerating correctly or results in a loss of engine power.

What can you do: Check your vehicle manual or workshop manual for the fuel filter service schedule. Even if your filter is not the root cause of the problem, replacing the filter at the manufacturer's recommended interval will take stress off the fuel pump and extend its life.

Engine does not reach full power, air filter should be checked

When the engine is running, an air filter in the air purification system traps dirt, dust and other foreign particles and removes them from the air flow into the engine. Eventually, the filter becomes clogged. A heavily clogged air filter will make your engine run much harder. You will notice this in the form of such an effect as poorly pulling the engine or a sharp drop in engine power.

What can you do: Most car manufacturers recommend every 12 months. Therefore, be sure to check the air filter and replace it if necessary. Refer to your vehicle manual or repair manual.

Poor engine thrust check the fuel injectors

The most common problem with fuel injectorscausing a loss of engine power is a blockage. But they can also fail.

What can you do:

• On Throttle Body Injectors (TBI), you can check the fuel spray pattern in the injector by removing the cap from the air filter housing. Spraying fuel should be even and partially sprayed following an inverted V pattern. You can add fuel additive to clear a slightly clogged injector, or take it to your store for service. However, if the internal valve in the injector is broken and not just clogged, you will need to replace it.
• In a multiport fuel injection system, dirty or clogged injectors are more difficult to detect. Depending on the configuration of your particular system, it may be relatively easy for you to disconnect each of the injectors from their port to test their spray pattern. In other systems, disassembly is more difficult.

If you suspect dirty injectors or have not serviced the injection system for a long time, try adding a fuel additive to the fuel tank. Otherwise, you may have to hand over your vehicle for an injector balance check, which measures the amount of fuel each injector sprays when power is applied.

The engine power has dropped, we are looking for the cause in the Throttle valve

Throttle valve malfunctions are not common, but they do happen.

What can you do: You can quickly check the throttle body to make sure the valve - the throttle plate - opens fully when the accelerator pedal is fully depressed.

• Remove the air ducts or air filter box cover to gain access to the throttle body.
• Ask an assistant to fully depress the accelerator pedal with the engine off.
• Make sure the throttle valve responds appropriately to the pedal.
• If not, adjust or lock the throttle rod or remove carbon deposits from the valve and throttle bore. Build-up can also interfere with proper valve operation.

The engine does not develop power check the fuel pressure regulator

A defective fuel pressure regulator can allow too much fuel to flow into the engine or too little which can result in poor engine thrust.

What can you do: Check fuel pressure with a pressure gauge. The check could indicate problems with the fuel pump (low pressure or low volume), a clogged fuel filter, or a faulty fuel pressure regulator.

The exact procedure may vary from one engine model to another, but the general steps are the same:

• Locate the Schrader valve on the fuel rail (this is a test fitting similar to the air valve on your tires). If your model does not come with this valve, you can still connect the sensor directly to the fuel line using adapters (see MR).
• Then follow the steps in the repair or service manual and compare the reading with the specification.

A defective EGR valve can reduce engine power.

The engine does not pull the reason in the exhaust system

Another possible, although not common, cause of loss of engine power during acceleration is a malfunction of the EGR valve.

The EGR valve allows a measured amount of exhaust gas at higher engine idle speeds to re-enter the engine to reduce heat and emissions.

When the EGR valve fails, it can get stuck open or closed. If a valve gets stuck (or intermittently stuck), opens, or does not work properly, the most common symptoms you will notice are rough idling and dips during accelerationbut other times you will simply notice a lack of engine power when you press the accelerator.

What can you do: You can check the EGR valve at home using a hand held vacuum pump.

Computer system

As part of the computer system, both the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor and the Manifold Air Flow (MAF) sensor affect the computer controlled air fuel mixture. Typically, the car computer stores the DTC in memory when a malfunction is detected using any of the sensors.

What can you do: even if the Check Engine light is off, it is recommended that you scan your computer for pending DTCs. The most common problem with MAF sensors is a dirty sensor element. You can clean it with an electronic contact cleaner or MAF cleaner. Whether your car is equipped with a MAP or MAF sensor, you can check it at home. Refer to your vehicle repair manual.

Vacuum leaks can affect engine power.

Vacuum leaks or why there is a loss of engine power

Leakage can occur from a loose, damaged or broken vacuum hose, a burnt gasket, or a damaged throttle body gasket.

What can you do: A common technique for detecting vacuum leaks is using a rubber hose:

• Start the engine and let it idle.
• Using a rubber hose, slide one end of the hose over your ear and the other end to listen to the various vacuum hoses.
• Trace the hoses with your diagnostic hose
• Check around the edge of the intake manifold and throttle gaskets.

A leaking vacuum hose or gasket will make a hissing sound and you can hear it with the rubber hose. Just be careful with moving engine parts when troubleshooting vacuum hoses.

Gearbox or clutch

If you have an automatic transmission and haven't checked your transmission fluid lately, it's time to do so. If you have a manual transmission, the clutch may be slipping.

A common symptom of low or dirty automatic transmission oil is slippage. Your engine is running, but your car is not moving. No power is sent to the wheels, giving the impression that your engine is running out of power. The same can happen in a car with a manual transmission, when the clutch is worn out, the force does not reach the wheels.

What you can do (automatic and manual):

Automatic transmission:

• Check the transmission oil after the engine reaches operating temperature (drive or idle for 20 minutes or more).
• Stop the engine and let it sit for three or five minutes.
• Then pull out the transmission oil dipstick.
• Use a rag to wipe the tip of the dipstick with oil.
• Insert the dipstick completely into its tube and pull out the dipstick again.
• Let the dipstick remain horizontal on the rag.
• The oil level should be between the ADD and FULL marks towards the end of the dipstick. If not, add the required amount of the recommended fluid for your car model.
• Check the liquid. It should have a distinct reddish color. If the color is opaque and brownish or black, or has a burnt odor, replace it. Refer to your vehicle manual or repair manual.

Manual Transmission:

• Park in a safe place away from traffic and people
• Install emergency brake
• Start engine
• Set gear to high gear
• Slowly release the clutch pedal fully for two seconds (so as not to burn the clutch disc or flywheel) and depress the clutch pedal again
• If the clutch is good, the engine should stall or stop as soon as you release the clutch
• If the grip is poor, your engine will continue to run normally.

Generally, water and acid are the most common enemies of a car's exhaust system. But pollution, overheating of the system, and high mileage can result in airflow restriction.

The most common victim of an exhaust system limitation is. In addition to failure or destruction from normal wear and tear, internal catalytic components can melt due to overheating and contamination.

Once the catalytic converter stalls, you will notice a decrease in engine performance and, depending on the type of failure, a strong smell of rotten eggs coming out through the exhaust pipe.

But problems may not stop there.

What can you do:

Check your exhaust system for high back pressure.

Temperature test:

• After driving for about 15 minutes, park your car in the garage and turn off the engine.
• Raise the vehicle and secure it to the jack stands.
• Using a kitchen thermometer, measure the temperature of the inlet pipe on the catalytic converter (be careful, temperatures may exceed 1400F).
• Take a reading of the exhaust pipe temperature on the catalytic converter.
• A clear temperature difference means a connected transmitter.

Rattle Test:
Depending on the type of converter installed and the type of malfunction, if the catalytic elements inside the converter have decayed, the converter will rattle when hit with a rubber hammer.

Pressure test:

• Remove the oxygen sensor in front of the converter.
• Install the pressure gauge into the threaded hole.
• Start the engine.
• Take pressure readings at idle speed and at higher speeds.
• A high pressure reading indicates a connected transducer or muffler.
• Unplug the muffler and repeat the test to find the obstruction.

Vacuum test:

• Connect a vacuum gauge to the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
• At idle, open and close the throttle valve, allowing the engine to reach approximately 2500 rpm.
• You should see the gauge pointer drop to near zero, return to a previous reading of about 5 inches Hg (inches of mercury), and return to the previous reading. If the needle returns too slowly to the previous reading, you may have a faulty exhaust system.

Worn cylinders or rings will reduce engine compression.

Compression

Poor acceleration can also cause compression problems in the engine. These problems are inevitable on engines with high mileage or those with a history of poor maintenance. And as miles accumulate, more engine power is lost due to wear on cylinders, rings, and pistons, and carbon build-up around the valves. Rebuilding an engine can be necessary and expensive.

Your car repair manual can help you pass this test.

Final thoughts

You can avoid many energy-efficient problems and many other problems by following a proper regular maintenance schedule. The ignition system and the fuel system are often the main culprits for failure to pull the engine, but a number of components in other systems can also cause the same problem. This guide will help you find the source of the problem, fix it, and save money.

For the engine to reach full power, the following conditions must be met:

1 - good compression of the engine;

2 - stable and abundant fuel supply;

3 - a lot of air.

If one of the above conditions is not met, then the engine efficiency will be low.

When the thrust is lost under load, this means that the engine control unit has entered emergency mode. Emergency operation of the engine is provided on all modern machines. This mode is necessary so that the car does not quickly, but safely reach its destination.

To find the right reason it is necessary to make computer diagnostics of the engine.

Based on the results of computer diagnostics, we will understand in which direction to move and where to dig in order to find out the true cause of the malfunction.

If diesel the engine runs out of fuel, then check the fuel equipment:.

If the diagnostics show that there is enough diesel fuel, and the turbine is underblowing and there are no errors in other systems, then it is advisable to measure the engine compression.

Failure to properly compress the engine will result in the engine will not pull and develop full power. If there is no compression of the piston, but there is a sufficient amount of air and fuel, then a strong explosion will not happen anyway, thus there will be no good exhaust, and as we know, the exhaust spins the turbine, so the turbine will not inflate the required volume of air. Lack of airflow will result in the car not pulling.

The most common reason for lack of air boost - problems in the operation of the turbine and the shutdown of the turbine itself.

Consider a variable geometry turbine engine (the most common).

Turbine shutdown, as a rule, occurs due to one of two problems: one is related to air, the other is due to a mechanical malfunction of the turbine itself (wear of impellers, axle backlash).

There are variable geometry turbines that are controlled by a vacuum, and there are those that are controlled by an electronic actuator.

There are four sensors installed in the machine, which completely influence the operation of the turbine.

1 - Boost pressure sensor. They measure the air pressure in the intake manifold.

2 - Boost pressure regulator. This is the valve that controls the geometry, i.e. turns the turbine on and off.

3 - Intake air temperature sensor. Shows the temperature of the air entering the motor.

4 - Atmospheric pressure sensor. Measures the atmospheric pressure where the vehicle is moving (normal atmospheric pressure relative to sea level).

Most often it happens that the tightness of the air intake system is broken in the car. Thus, the turbine drives all the air out (torn pipe, poor connection at the joints, cracked intercooler (air cooling radiator).

To identify such a problem, it is necessary to check the entire air intake system for leaks.

The next most common problem: Faulty geometry in the turbine.

To check the geometry on the car, you need to remove the vacuum hose from the actuator on the turbine itself. Put on another hose and try to draw in air with your mouth or a special device. After this procedure, the rod that controls the geometry should change its position. If it does not change its position, then there may be 2 reasons either the diaphragm in the actuator has broken, or the geometry itself has jammed.

Failure of the boost pressure regulator and boost pressure sensordetected by the presence of errors on them in the results of computer diagnostics.

The boost pressure regulator can also be checked with a vacuum gauge.

We must remember to check the vacuum pump and vacuum tubes throughout the machine for leaks. This is done as follows, disconnect the branch pipe in some place, put your hand, air should be felt.

A turbine with an electronic actuator can only be checked using computer diagnostics!

Note that swirl flaps can also affect traction loss (not available in all vehicles).

We hope this information will help you identify the reason why your car is not pulling or gaining full power, as well as gain enough knowledge to communicate with car service specialists.

Sometimes the owners of the products of the domestic auto industry are faced with a situation when the injection engine does not pull on the VAZ 2114. This problem is not uncommon, so we will try to thoroughly understand the reasons for the “weakness” of the engine and eliminate them ourselves.

List of possible causes of power drop

To quickly answer the question: why the engine thrust of the VAZ 2114 with 8 valves has disappeared from the first time, not everyone, even an experienced driver, can.

To do this, you need to consider all possible sources of damage:

• debris getting into the gasoline filter;
• blockage of the gas pump diaphragm;
• malfunction of the sensor that controls the air flow;
• poor work of candles;
• a malfunction in the ECU (electronic engine control unit);
• dusty air filter;
• clogged nozzles;
• complete wear of the clutch disc;
• insufficient compression in the cylinders.

Analysis of the causes of poor engine traction and possible repairs

Dirty fuel filter

This may be due to low-quality gasoline (containing various small debris) or a rare cleaning of the fuel tank. In this case, you will have to completely replace the entire filter system.

Gas pump diaphragm clogged

As a rule, the reason for the blockage is poor quality gasoline. To clean it, just take out the diaphragm and rinse it thoroughly or blow it out with air.

Air flow sensor malfunction

This is the most common reason why the VAZ 2114 does not pull.

Malfunction symptoms:

• too high or low engine idle speed;
• intermittent engine idling;
• disturbed acceleration dynamics. The car becomes uncontrollable and often freezes.

It is worth checking the operating status of the air flow meter periodically to avoid wasting time and money in diagnosing the engine.

Dusty air filter

The more the filter is clogged with dust, the less air flows to the engine, therefore, the thrust decreases. What can be done in this case? Ideally, the filter should be changed to a new one, but if this is not possible, remove the filter, tap and blow to remove large debris (flies, dry leaves, insects).

Clogged nozzles

If the injector nozzles are clogged, you will have to go to a service station for ultrasonic cleaning, or purchase a special cleaning fluid.

Auto mechanics advise to purchase only high-quality injector cleaning products, for example, Wynn's (Vince), LIQUI MOLY, Carbon Clean.

The procedure itself is quite simple: the cleaning agent must be poured into the gas tank. But this method can only help if the fuel system is not heavily contaminated. An engine with a mileage of several hundred thousand kilometers is likely to require a complete replacement of the injectors.

Complete wear of the clutch disc

Disk wear can be determined by the following criteria:

• the pedal is easily "sunk", but does not come back;
• the clutch slips;
• when the clutch is engaged, a noticeable vibration occurs;
• the clutch cannot be disengaged.

There is another way to check for wear: if you try to move away in fourth gear and the engine stalls, then there are no problems with the disc. If the engine continues to run, then the clutch disc will most likely have to be replaced.

Poor candlestick performance

There are several signs by which you can determine if a spark plug is faulty:

• the engine makes an unpleasant noise when idling;
• a sharp press on the gas causes dips in power;
• the engine runs unevenly;
• increased fuel consumption with a decrease in power;
• the candles are filled with gasoline.

Visual inspection of the spark plugs can also help identify the problem. If the candle is covered with dark oil, has a gloss or velvety carbon deposits, then this clearly indicates problems.

Defective spark plugs must be replaced with new ones.

Insufficient compression in the cylinders

This defect appears due to high wear of the entire cylinder-piston system. As a result, the car owner notices that oil consumption increases, the combustible mixture does not completely burn out, and fuel enters the crankcase. This problem is serious and is solved either by replacing the piston rings, or by completely repairing the engine at a service station.

Malfunction of the electronic engine control unit (ECU)

There may be several signs of an ECU malfunction:

• various mechanical damages on it;
• lack of indicators from various sensors monitoring systems;
• lack of control signals for the fuel pump, idle system of the machine and other mechanisms controlled by the ECU.

Unfortunately, this device cannot be repaired in most cases. Even service station specialists will offer to simply replace the ECU with a new one after diagnostics.

Finally

The article lists all the possible reasons why the VAZ 2114 does not pull. It is possible for every motorist to independently analyze them and figure out the reason for the poor engine thrust. This will save you a significant amount of money compared to the cost of diagnostics at a service center.