The stabilizer bushings are one of the things that drivers pay little attention to. Roughly speaking, they can be completely removed from the car's suspension and nothing terrible will happen. Yes, the car will start to work a little worse - there will be knocks and vibrations when driving, but the car will continue to drive, and this is the most important thing. But if you want to monitor your car fully, it is recommended, among other things, to pay attention to the bushings and their work.

Why do you need a stabilizer

Before dealing with the direct role of the bushings, you need to understand what the task is on the car at the stabilizer. As the name suggests, this element stabilizes the vehicle. The stabilizer is activated every time the car enters a turn and brakes. When cornering, there is a risk of lateral roll, and when braking longitudinal, and in each of these situations, the stabilizer does everything to keep the car parallel to the roadway.

The stabilizer is structurally a conventional rod that connects the subframe to the wheel mount (we can say that with the suspension arm when it comes to MacPherson strut front suspension). In a MacPherson suspension, the camber angle is static and changes as the vehicle rolls. Changing the camber angle will inevitably lead to a decrease in the contact area of \u200b\u200bthe tire with the road. To minimize the risk of such a situation, you need to reduce the roll force, which is what the stabilizer does. In fact, we can say that it takes on the role of a torsion bar: at the slightest probability of lateral roll, the transverse ends located in the levers begin to move in different directions, thereby twisting the middle part. The moment that occurs during such a movement is sufficient to prevent the wheels from continuing relative movement, which reduces roll.

Purpose of stabilizer bushings

The stabilizer bushings are extremely important for the correct operation of the entire mechanism. Since the stabilizer must necessarily be able to twist from multidirectional forces on the left and right wheels, it is customary to mount it with bushings. In the process of operation, the stabilizer bushings begin to wear out, and backlash occurs, which leads to malfunctioning of the entire mechanism, increasing the freedom of the part. If you do not take any action to eliminate the backlash (replacing the stabilizer bushings), all sense in the stabilizer operation will disappear - the car will begin to roll in corners.

How to change stabilizer bushings

Replacing the stabilizer bushings is a fairly simple process that can be performed at almost any service center. You can also replace worn parts yourself, if you have all the necessary tools.

To replace the stabilizer bushings you will need:

• The lift, since the work will be carried out under the car;
• New stabilizer bushings. Basically, the hub is just a regular piece of rubber, so there is no critical need to purchase original parts. On sale you can find a lot of analogues from well-known manufacturers, for example, from Sidem and Sasic;
• A pair of keys (or heads).

The anti-roll bar is an interesting thing. Its main feature is that it is often underestimated by motorists, especially those who have recently been driving or have not seen anything cooler than a nine with leaked shock absorbers. Indeed, it can be removed and thrown away altogether - the car will still drive. True, bad.

What are bushings and why are they needed

The main task of the bushings is to reduce the noise of the suspension while driving and to attach the stabilizer to the car body. They are usually made from two materials: polyurethane and rubber. The parts have high elasticity and strength, which is why there are no squeaks and knocks when the height of any of the wheels changes. In addition, it is impossible to rigidly attach the stabilizer to the body, since the distance from the attachment point to the edge of the stabilizer changes during bending.

Often, various sounds arising from movement and sharp turns - squeaks, knocks, and so on, can indicate a malfunction of the bushings. This phenomenon is associated with the loss of elasticity of the sleeve, as a result of which it becomes very rigid. Also, dust or sand can accumulate under this part.

Stabilizer design features

In the field of mechanical engineering, the stabilizer appeared along with the first cars, the maximum speed of which exceeded the 20 km / h mark. Due to the large rolls that occur when turning, it became necessary to install this component. The main purpose of the stabilizer is to protect the vehicle from overturning, since during a turn the load on the outer wheels increases, while on the inner ones, on the contrary, decreases. This causes the machine to rock. The stabilizer makes it more stable on the road, preventing it from rolling over.

On a note! All car suspensions are equipped with a stabilizer, not only at the front, but also at the rear. A stabilizer is not needed only if a torsion bar is installed at the rear of the car: the stabilizer functions will be assigned to the suspension itself.

The design of the stabilizer on many cars is a U-shaped metal bar made of spring steel. To attach the device to the body, special clamps and bushings are used to allow the stabilizer to rotate. For greater stability of the car and increase the elasticity of the stabilizer, bushings are used - all the shocks from various suspension elements fall on them.

Stabilizer bushings. Malfunction symptoms. Effects.

For the best damping of vibrations and forces acting on the car body, the vast majority of suspension elements are connected by means of elastic elements. The same goes for the stabilizer. For its fastening, special bushings (rubber bands, pillows) made of durable rubber or polyurethane are used. Over time, as the vehicle is used, these bushings can begin to collapse and noticeably lose their elasticity. This results in unsatisfactory operation of the stabilizer \u003d. More serious defects may begin to appear, which will only grow faster over time.

The first symptom that heralds the replacement of the bushings will be a slight knocking of the suspension. A similar knock can be observed with "tired" shock absorbers. Only in the case of bushings, it will be heard not only on pits and bumps, but also when entering relatively sharp turns. At the same time, the car often feels too wobbly and sluggish. The resulting knock will be the result of a backlash in the connecting nodes of the stabilizer levers due to worn bushings.

If measures are not taken in time, the knocking will only intensify in the future and will begin to accompany the work of the suspension everywhere due to the increasing deformation and destruction of the bushings. Side roll and excessive play in the steering wheel may occur. It is possible to "yaw" the car not only in corners, but also in cases of braking or lane change. Most automakers advise changing the stabilizer bushings every 30-40 thousand mileage. However, in our conditions, it is better to focus on the wear of the bushings. Therefore, a sudden knock and slight bounce in corners will be clear signs of an impending replacement of components.

As a popular method of checking the bushings for serviceability, it is proposed to move in the 2nd gear of the "speed bump" obliquely. There was a dull thud in the area of \u200b\u200bthe pedals - most likely the Khan's bushings. You can also just crawl under the car to inspect everything yourself. A worn-out bushing will "please" with the presence of cracks and abrasions typical for worn and cracked rubber. These cracks are sometimes also called "daisies" by the car maker.

Also, the rubber of the bushings can simply harden and lose the necessary elasticity. If the stabilizer bushings do not work well, then just swing your hand hard up and down and to the sides of the stabilizer itself. If you feel a backlash, squeaks and knocks in the lower part of the suspension, then the bushings have become unusable.

But for the best result, it is better, of course, to drive onto an overpass, inspection pit or use a lift. Of the tools, you only need a crowbar or a mounting paddle, which you just need to rest on the bottom of the car and slightly "shake" the stabilizer, in the places of its docking with the body. If you feel a noticeable backlash or a loss of elasticity is found, then it's time to think about replacing the bushings.

List of required tools

You definitely need to have the following set of tools: new bushings; to unscrew the subframe bolt, an open-end wrench of size 24 is required; keys 17 and 15; for unscrewing screws from the motor protection - a key for 10; for fastening bolts - a key 13; clamps of metal material for 20 - for clamping the stabilizers, since the old ones must be replaced; anti-scale and rust treatment agent - WD 40; graphite grease; jack.

Benefits of timely replacement

Every driver will be able to cope with the replacement of bushings on his car, because this process is not a super-complicated repair. Everything can be done with your own hands, but if you do not have time or desire, then it is advisable to seek help from specialists. This will help protect the anti-roll bar from premature wear.

Driving on poor-quality road surfaces will recede into the background if you have previously installed brand new bushings. And in general, the installed new bushings are the absence of difficulties and problems when driving, as well as comfort and safety.

Replacing the stabilizer bushing "Kia"

Replacing the Kia stabilizer bushings involves the following algorithm: Raise the front of the car and dismantle the wheels. Find the steering shaft and make a mark (for easy further installation in the original place), remove the mounting bolt. Raise gearbox using a jack, unscrew the rear cushion and subframe. To facilitate access to the rear cushions, four bolts are removed to secure the subframe. Raise the front section of the subframe with a jack. Remove the mount and treat with an oil solution to prevent the development of corrosion processes on the metal. Screw them into place only four to five turns.

This is done crosswise to provide additional security and uniform contraction of the plane. Loosen the jack until you can reach the bushing bolts. The bushing on the right side can be easily unscrewed through the engine compartment, and on the left side - from below. Insert the staples. This procedure is carried out in a neat way so as not to damage the collar on the steering boot. The process is repeated in reverse order. The peculiarities of the Kia Sid car are that the steering shaft has a telescopic view, and therefore it is installed at the last moment.

There are the following types of bushings:

1. Spherical (or "iron") bushing. By design, it resembles a ball joint;

2. Rubber bushing.

Today, more and more popularity is gained stabilizer bushings of polyurethane type. They are quite easy to replace, which is an important plus, and they also have good performance characteristics. Experienced drivers can safely say that these are the most convenient parts.

If there is a malfunction in the area of \u200b\u200bthe stabilizer bush, it must be replaced without fail. Otherwise, it can have a very bad effect on the running and handling of the vehicle. When the bushing is deformed or cracked, some noise may appear in the area of \u200b\u200bthe car suspension (mainly when the car runs into an obstacle or increases speed). In principle, problems in the suspension area are determined precisely from such noises.

For, to make sure that it is necessary to replace the bushings,periodically, it is necessary to carry out a diagnosis of the suspension, after which a malfunction will be identified or prevented.

In the event that it is revealed that it is necessary to replace the stabilizer bush, you can do it yourself. Moreover, there is nothing complicated in this and the procedure is very simple. First, the bolts are unscrewed, with which the clamp is attached. The stabilizer is then pulled to the side and the old parts are removed. Well, and for the final action, a new part is very carefully installed.

It is according to this scheme replacement of both the front stabilizer and the rear... After replacing parts, driving a car will be much more pleasant and comfortable, and various road obstacles will be overcome without any difficulty. Among other things, the new elements will maximize the performance of the racks.

If the cars always drove in a straight line, and even if they didn't accelerate or slow down, the stabilizer would not be needed at all. Its work starts every time the car tries to tilt. Whether it's lateral roll when cornering or longitudinal when braking, the stabilizer tries to keep the body parallel to the road surface. And despite the elementary design, he does it well.

The stabilizer is just a link connecting the subframe to the wheel mount (today we'll talk about MacPherson strut front suspension, so let's put it simply - with a suspension arm). It should be noted that MacPherson really, really needs to use a stabilizer, mainly due to some design compromise. The camber angle is static there, but during rolls it changes due to the peculiarity of the suspension scheme. Why is that bad? The fact that changing the camber angles inevitably reduces the contact area of \u200b\u200bthe tire with the road. And the only way to avoid this phenomenon is to lower the roll. This is where the stabilizer helps, which works like a torsion bar: during lateral roll, the opposite ends fixed in the levers begin to move in different directions, twisting the middle part. The resulting torque prevents further relative movement of the wheels, reducing roll. As you can see, it works very simply.

But in order not to become a fan of the stabilizer cult, it is necessary to say a few words about its shortcomings. First, the stabilizer willy-nilly reduces the suspension travel. Of course, this is not critical for a passenger car, but for an SUV it can be harmful. Well, and secondly, you should not get carried away with replacing the stabilizer with some more rigid ones, which some car owners sometimes like to do. In their opinion, a more durable stabilizer will help almost completely avoid rolls and make a Formula 1 car out of Zhiguli. This is a very dangerous delusion.

The first thing that Kulibin will face with a piece of iron as thick as an arm in the front suspension is an unexpectedly easy drift due to an unhealthy imbalance in the adhesion of the front and rear wheels to the road (it will be insufficient for the rear wheels). It should be understood that the engineers who develop the suspensions carefully calculated not only each of the suspensions, but also their joint work. And if it is incorrect to intervene in the work of one of them, the overall handling will decrease, although the roll, it is quite possible, will become a little less.

So, what has the bushings to do with it, and why change them? As I said before, the stabilizer must be able to twist from the multidirectional forces on the right and left wheels. If it is welded or rigidly attached to the stretcher in any other way, it will be deprived of such an opportunity, therefore it is attached to it with the help of bushings. Over time, they wear off, and the stabilizer begins to "walk" in them.

This play, like any other, increases the degree of freedom of the part, which negates all its ability to prevent roll. And then, in the corners, the car begins to fall on its side more than it should.

Not every motorist will immediately notice this, so they change the bushings in other cases: if wear is detected during the diagnosis of the suspension, or if it already starts knocking. However, the second situation is usually more typical not due to physical wear and tear, but due to a good impact or other mechanical impact.

So, we were imbued with the understanding that the bushings must be replaced periodically, and this is completely normal. Let's see how to do it.

What do you need?

What's great about this renovation is that it's inexpensive. And I would even say that there is no point in making it with your own hands, no matter how skillful they are. Therefore, let's go to the service and just watch how the specialist does it.

You will need a minimum of tools: a head of 18 mm and a key (or head) of 10. But look at the key: why did life cripple him so much? In fact, before us is not just a key, but the Modernized Special Tool by Alexey Teleshov, we will call it that.

Since we will be changing the bushings on Logan, we will have to take into account some of its features, so such a clever key may come in handy. In addition, you will have to look for a lift, and it is likely that the hydraulic rack (we, in any case, used it) together with the "grinder". So, despite the seeming simplicity, everything is not so simple.

Now about the cost of spare parts. There is no point in chasing the original, there are very decent manufacturers, especially since the sleeve is a piece of rubber, and it is not so hard to do something there. Therefore, we pay attention to two running models: the French Sasic for 160 rubles and the Belgian Sidem for 180. We will choose Sasic.

We go into the box and get on the lift.

As is usually the case with the threaded connections at the bottom of the machine, they all have long been covered with a layer of dirt and sour. Therefore, before starting work, it makes sense to water the WD 40 bolts. We wait a little and take out that same key with a broken fate and try to unscrew the bolt ten times from above (seen in the photo).

Naturally, this is as useless as asking the cat to go through the open door faster (if you have a cat, you will understand the futility of the plan). But in this case, the very design of the Logan suspension helps us: this bolt is usually simply cut off, because its purpose is incomprehensible to anyone, even in the heavier and off-road Duster, this unit is made simpler and slightly softer (and the bolt is of a smaller diameter). Therefore, the specialist draws a mark with a white marker along which it will be necessary to cut off the ear of the clamp. Now it's up to the "grinder": cut off this ear and go to the other side.

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Here the matter is complicated by the dangerous proximity of the clamp with the fuel pipes. They will have to be removed. It is simple to do this: we unscrew the nearest bolt to protect the oil pan, after which the tubes can be pulled out of the clamps and taken to the side. So that they do not interfere, they can be fixed with a hook made of any sufficiently rigid wire. But all this will have to be done only if you have to cut off the eyelet from this side too - for some reason, the bolt here unscrewed easily.

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Now we remove the clamp. We unscrew the only fixing bolt with the head. Removing the clamp is not so easy, so we take the assembly and hook it up by the hole in this bolt. That's it, the clamp is in our hands. Now, with the same assembly, we remove the stabilizer from the subframe and take out the bushing. For fun, let's compare the new and old bushings. The part we just removed shows wear, but it's not critical yet. A well-pronounced ovality is noticeable in the finally killed sleeve. But if we started to change, then we do the work to the end.

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Take the mounting again and again move the stabilizer away from the subframe. We put in the sleeve, after which the assembly can be removed. To make it easier to put the clamp, we use grease (we used copper). It is also applied to the clamp and the bolt.

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This is necessary so that, firstly, it is easier to put on the clamp, and secondly, it is easier to unscrew the bolt next time. It is not always possible to press the clamp into place with your hand. I would even say it always fails. It is usually useless to hit the rubber with a hammer, so pulling a hydraulic stand under the machine. We rest it on the collar and slightly raise it. If everything is assembled correctly (although what can be assembled there incorrectly?), Then the holes on the clamp and the stretcher will coincide, and we will only have to add the bolt and then tighten it to the end.

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It happens that the clamp does not want to get into place. In this case, there is no need to try to pull it over the bushing with excessive force: it can be damaged or deformed and simply tighten it crookedly. It will turn out even worse than it was, because the stabilizer is equally contraindicated in excessive play and too tight a position when it cannot work as a torsion bar. Most likely, the matter is in the insufficient amount of lubricant - without it, the friction between the clamp iron and the bushing rubber will not allow the part to be installed correctly and without unnecessary effort. Add a little of it and everything will go much easier.

And now we repeat exactly the same operation on the other side, not forgetting to put the fuel pipes back in place and tighten the protection bolt if they still had to be removed. That's all.

What's the bottom line?

In principle, there are no cardinal differences on other cars with MacPherson front suspension. And there is hardly anything complicated in this work, if not for the use of a lift and some other tools to deal with sour bolts.

Work in the service would cost 440 rubles per side. Inexpensive, but you can try to do it yourself. There is a charm here: if something went wrong, you can carefully drive to the service station without a stabilizer at all, and everything will be assembled there as expected. Well, maybe they will laugh, but this is already in your absence.

It will be much worse to continue driving with broken or worn bushings. Even if nothing knocks at the bottom (and at first nothing knocks for sure), controllability will decrease, sometimes even to disgrace. It is not worth bringing to this point, each turn will be much more dangerous than it actually is.

For help in preparing the material, we thank the network of specialized stores and car services "Logan-Shop" (St. Petersburg, Shkolnaya st., 73/2, tel: 928-32-20)

Ever had a stabilizer bar?

The elements in a car that have the function of ensuring stability while driving on the road are called stabilizers. For quiet operation, stabilizers are installed on the bushings. The stabilizer bushings are relatively soft and resilient rubber parts.

What is a stabilizer bush?

The sleeve is made by casting. Material used for manufacturing: rubber or polyurethane. The shape of this part is almost the same for all car models. To strengthen the structure of the bushings, grooves and tides are made in them.

When to change the front anti-roll bar bushings?

Visually inspecting the stabilizer bushings from time to time can reveal wear. If there are cracks on the bushing, the shape has changed (there are large abrasions), then the stabilizer bushings must be replaced.

The resource of the stabilizer bushings for most brands and models of cars is 30 thousand kilometers. If only one bushing is worn out, it is recommended to replace the complete set to increase the overhaul period for bushing replacement.

If dirt is visible on visual inspection, it is better to clean them, thereby protecting against accelerated wear.

Signs when you need to change the stabilizer bushings in the car:

• if there is wheel play when cornering;
• if the steering wheel beats;
• if there are creaks when the car is tilted (roll);
• if the suspension vibrates (while there is extraneous noise);
• if the car pulls to the left or right when driving straight;
• and, if there is any instability at all while riding.

These signs primarily indicate wear on the stabilizer bushings. The same signs may also be accompanied by the wear of the silent blocks. Such problems are eliminated and the subsequent passage of work on wheel alignment. Therefore, you should check them and carry out repair work with your own or someone else's hands to replace the stabilizer bushings. Backlash can also appear if the wheel balance is severely imbalanced. Disrupts balance when hitting a pit, or, for example, when pumping, to close a puncture.

How to change the front bushings of the car stabilizer

Although there are a huge number of brands and models of cars, the principle and procedure for replacing the front bushings is practically the same. Basically, the tools used differ.

The correct procedure for replacing the front bushings:

1. Install the car on a lift (if available) or install it above the inspection pit.
2. Loosen the front wheel bolts.
3. Remove wheels.
4. Then the nuts securing the struts to the stabilizer should be unscrewed.
5. Disconnect.
6. Then loosen the rear bracket bolts and unscrew the front bolts.
7. Clean the places for installing the bushings from dirt.
8. New bushings on the inside should be lubricated with soapy water or silicone grease.
9. Install the bushings and perform the reverse steps to disassembly.

In some vehicle designs, it will be more convenient to replace the front bushings if you first remove the engine crankcase protection.

The rear stabilizer bushings are changed by analogy with the front ones. Usually, the front ones are more difficult to shoot than the rear ones. When the rear bushings are worn, a squeak appears.

Squeak of stabilizer bushings

The driver and passengers often feel the appearance of a squeak when the car is moving. Especially they begin to creak in severe frosts.

Consider the reasons for the creak of the bushings:

1. The bushings were made of low grade material.
2. In the cold, the rubber melts oak and loses its elasticity, which causes creaks.
3. The bushing is badly worn.

Ways to eliminate squeak of automotive stabilizer bushings:

Logically, in order to eliminate the squeak, you need to lubricate the bushings, which is what some drivers do. But, grease, be it lithol 24, various oils - all this attracts dust and sand. Adhering abrasive substances will only lead to rapid wear of the bushings.

Also, lubrication will lead to a partial loss of function of the bushings themselves, since they must tightly hold the stabilizers. The bushings are torsional and therefore prevent the vehicle from rolling. For the bushings to work properly, they need to fit snugly. And if you lubricate them, they will already slide and can rotate.

There are craftsmen ways to improve the efficiency of stabilizer bushings. They wrap some of the bushings with electrical tape so that they fit snugly.

The video shows the process of replacing conventional bushings with polyurethane ones.

The car's suspension is the first to meet all the irregularities in the path of the car, taking all the blows from pits, bumps and other "pleasant" surprises with which our roads are dazzling. Each suspension unit has its own specific purpose, but in the aggregate they are all designed to damp the arising shock loads when the machine is moving, as well as to ensure the proper handling and stability of the vehicle when cornering or making sharp maneuvers. Parts such as the anti-roll bar bush often require replacement. The work can be done by hand.

A little about the car suspension

It is not difficult to guess that the level of safety and comfort on the road for both the driver and passengers is almost directly dependent on the serviceability of the suspension, as well as how well it copes with its tasks.

Each component of a car's suspension is aimed at a specific function. The levers together with the trunnions hold the wheel in the required plane, parallel allowing it to rotate freely in two different planes (the moment of entering the turn).

Shock absorbers dampen vibrations that occur during movement, thereby ensuring the smooth running of the vehicle. At the same time, the springs are designed to ensure the rigidity of the suspension and the return of its components to their original state.

The main units and components of the front suspension of the car

But there is another important detail in the suspension, which no modern car can do without. And this detail is a stabilizer. It can be easily seen if the car is driven onto a lift or placed on an inspection pit. On the front axle, among the springs, shock absorbers and other levers, a curved steel bar will be easily noticeable, which is fixed with one of its arms to the subframe, and the other to the wheel hub. The stabilizer mounts are not rigid and allow it to move along the axis in one plane.

In the design of the suspension, the stabilizer appeared at the dawn of the automotive industry, when speeds began to reach 20 km / h and higher. The introduction of this element into the suspension design made it possible to maintain the stability of the vehicle during cornering and maneuvering.

Thus, the main task of the stabilizer during movement is to distribute the weight of the car body over all its wheels in the event of a roll. In particular, this applies to cases of rather sharp turns or when a sudden change in trajectory.

The principle of operation of the anti-roll bar

On a fairly common type of McFerson suspension today, the stabilizer is a torsion bar that works in torsion. This element is rigidly connected to the car body or subframe. The forces generated in the suspension are transmitted to the stabilizer through additional levers, which are communicated with the suspension due to the hinges. This simple scheme allows you to prevent even a serious roll of the vehicle and even more so its rollover.

The rear axle is most often equipped with a stabilizer of this type in the case of a four-wheel drive vehicle. If we talk about cars with rear-wheel drive and a solid beam on the rear axle, then the role of the stabilizer is given to the jet rod, also known as the Panhard rod.

Also, a number of Japanese off-road vehicles at one time, in addition to the Panhard traction, were additionally equipped with another stabilizer, which, in the form of a curved thrust, went along the rear axle beam and communicated with the power components of the body through small levers.

Stabilizer bushings. Malfunction symptoms. Effects.

For the best damping of vibrations and forces acting on the car body, the vast majority of suspension elements are connected by means of elastic elements. The same goes for the stabilizer. For its fastening, special bushings (rubber bands, pillows) made of durable rubber or polyurethane are used. Over time, as the vehicle is used, these bushings can begin to collapse and noticeably lose their elasticity. This results in unsatisfactory operation of the stabilizer \u003d. More serious defects may begin to appear, which will only grow faster over time.

Diagram of the stabilizer device and its fastening elements

The first symptom that heralds the replacement of the bushings will be a slight knocking of the suspension. A similar knock can be observed with "tired" shock absorbers. Only in the case of bushings, it will be heard not only on pits and bumps, but also when entering relatively sharp turns. At the same time, the car often feels too wobbly and sluggish. The resulting knock will be the result of a backlash in the connecting nodes of the stabilizer levers due to worn bushings.

If measures are not taken in time, the knocking will only intensify in the future and will begin to accompany the work of the suspension everywhere due to the increasing deformation and destruction of the bushings. Side roll and excessive play in the steering wheel may occur. It is possible to "yaw" the car not only in corners, but also in cases of braking or lane change. Most automakers advise changing the stabilizer bushings every 30-40 thousand mileage. However, in our conditions, it is better to focus on the wear of the bushings. Therefore, a sudden knock and slight bounce in corners will be clear signs of an impending replacement of components.

As a popular method of checking the bushings for serviceability, it is proposed to move in the 2nd gear of the "speed bump" obliquely. There was a dull thud in the area of \u200b\u200bthe pedals - most likely the Khan's bushings. You can also just crawl under the car to inspect everything yourself. A worn-out bushing will "please" with the presence of cracks and abrasions typical for worn and cracked rubber. These cracks are sometimes also called "daisies" by the car maker.

Stabilizer bush and bracket for fixing it

Also, the rubber of the bushings can simply harden and lose the necessary elasticity. If the stabilizer bushings do not work well, then just swing your hand hard up and down and to the sides of the stabilizer itself. If you feel a backlash, squeaks and knocks in the lower part of the suspension, then the bushings have become unusable.

But for the best result, it is better, of course, to drive onto an overpass, inspection pit or use a lift. Of the tools, you only need a crowbar or a mounting paddle, which you just need to rest on the bottom of the car and slightly "shake" the stabilizer, in the places of its docking with the body. If you feel a noticeable backlash or a loss of elasticity is found, then it's time to think about replacing the bushings.

Stabilizer bushing replacement process

Replacing the bushings will not take much time. You just need the right tools, plus a well-lit and comfortable working area. It is unlikely that the average driver will have access to a professional lift during work, so it is better to get a pair of jacks and a special rigid support in advance.

The tool you may need

Tools Required to Replace Bushings

Work order

View of the stabilizer pad before starting work

Jacks up the lower arm for easy rubber band replacement

The old bushing is removed from the stabilizer

A pre-lathered or greased new bushing is installed

New bushing at the end of all work

It should be understood that the device and complexity of the suspension on different cars may differ significantly and the above instructions are not universal. But for a general understanding of the process and order of work, it is more than enough.

A selection of videos on replacing bushings on various cars

Replacement for VAZ: video guide

Replacement for Renault Megan 2: video instructions

Replacing the stabilizer rubber bands on the Chevrolet Aveo

Replacing stabilizer bushings on Hyundai Solaris (Accent)

The job of replacing bushings is not difficult or time consuming. Everything about everything can take an hour and a half or two. But in the price lists of the service station, this service does not belong to the expensive section. So here everyone decides for himself whether to be confused in the garage for an hour or two, or to give the car to the masters and do more pressing matters.