In a vehicle, many equipment power circuits are protected by a fuse (Fuse). Powerful consumers are connected to the vehicle electrical system via a relay. If problems arise with electrical equipment, the PCB and relays are checked first. The article discusses the Ford Focus 2 fuses: purpose, location, instructions for replacing the mounting block and each element are given.

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Location, purpose and wiring diagram

PP and relays are located in special blocks called assembly. There are two of them at Ford Focus. One is located in the cab of the car. For convenience, it was placed under the glove box, and the second - in the engine compartment not far from the battery (video by Eduard Kantsurov).

Blocks in Ford Focus 2 dorestyling and 2 restyling have differences, so you need to disassemble their purpose separately. The Ford Focus 2 dorestyle uses medium-sized flat plug-type fuses, they are also called knife fuses. The end face indicates the fuse rating - the possible maximum current.

If the current exceeds the permissible, a metal plate melts inside. Thus, the fuse opens the circuit in which it is used.

The PP color determines the denomination.

PP decoding from F1 to F36:

Description of the purpose of the Ford Focus 2 relay:

Decoding of the power supply unit in the cabin for Ford Focus 2 dorestyling:

PP scheme Ford Focus 2 restyling

Decoding the purpose of the PP in the Ford Focus showroom:

Instructions for removing and replacing a power supply unit with your own hands

Replacing the power supply unit is rarely performed; replacement of individual fuses or relays is required, which may burn out. In case of malfunctions with electrical equipment, first of all, the PCB and relays are checked. Burnt-out elements are replaced with new ones.

Tools and materials

To replace the PCB, no special tools are required; there are tweezers on the cover of the mounting block, with which the elements are removed. If tweezers are not available, you can remove the parts by hand.

When choosing fuses for replacement, you should pay attention to their rating. Install new elements with the same characteristics. If the PP does not match the rating, it will burn out and permanently open the circuit. In the worst case, the electrical appliance included in the network will burn out or a fire will occur.

It is impossible to install jumpers instead of the PP, this can damage the electrical equipment or even fire.

Stages

The process of removing and replacing the PSU is simple and differs in the location of the PSU.

If it is located under the hood, then the following actions are performed:

1. To access the mounting block, you need to raise the hood. The power supply unit is located to the right of the motor and is a small black plastic box.
2. The cover can be easily removed using, for example, a flat screwdriver. You just need to pry off the lid on one side.
3. On the inside of the lid there are tweezers and a PCB layout diagram.
4. Using tweezers, the fuse is removed from the socket. A new element is installed in its place.
5. Next, the block cover and the hood are closed.

Photo gallery

Photo 1. The location of the power supply unit in the engine compartment Photo 2. Location of the power supply unit in the cabin

To replace the PP in the cabin PSU, you must perform the following steps:

1. First dismantle the protective shelf. To do this, you need to pull it down.
2. Then you need to unscrew the two PSU latches by turning them counterclockwise and pull it down.
3. To make it easier to change the PP, the block can be pulled forward a little and moved to other slots in the brackets on which it is held.
4. Replacing the PP is done in the same way as in the PSU under the hood.

If you want to do it yourself, there are free connectors in the mounting block.

Conclusion

Fuses and relays are designed to protect electrical equipment from voltage surges. Each element is responsible for a specific section of the chain. Therefore, if problems arise related to the electronics in the on-board network, diagnostics should start with the fuse box.

Any car enthusiast can replace the PP. Most often, the cigarette lighter fuse in a car blows. To fix the problem, it is enough to know where the PPs are located on the Ford Focus 2, and there will be no problems with how to change the fuse for the cigarette lighter or fuel pump.

Ford Focus 2 is one of the most popular foreign cars produced in Russia. This car is very reliable and meets all international standards. But, despite this, sooner or later, the owners of the Focuses have problems with electrical equipment. This is especially true for new owners of used cars. The very first sign of problems with electrical appliances is the failure of fuses (PP) or interrupting elements (relays).

Fuses that are used in the Ford Focus 2 are called "knife" fuses, they are flat, medium-sized, plug-in, that is, they consist of two plug contacts with a fusible jumper in a plastic case of different colors. On top of the case, the rating is knocked out - the current strength, when exceeded, the part burns out (the jumper melts). The main function is to open the electrical circuit to prevent damage to electrical equipment and possible fire in the vehicle. For the most powerful current consumers, relays play a protective role.

In general, according to the standard, fuses come in 17 colors, while the shades may vary. For Ford Focus, the following colors are used to mark these parts:

The location of the connectors, relays and fuses differs in cars produced from 2005 to 2007 (the part number starts from 37), and in 2007 and after the restyling in 2008 until the end of production of this model in 2010 (the numbering starts from 100).

In post-styling Focuses, released in the Russian Federation, there are four options for the location of the safety elements and relays. Versions B, C, D, E (F, J) depend on the vehicle equipment. Clarification of which model the unit is made by the last letters of the serial number. For example, 7M5T-14A073-DG belongs to modification D.

Location

Under the hood, if you stand facing the engine, then on the right at the side there are PP and relay for the power unit and other components located in the engine compartment (high-current). In the passenger compartment - fuses and interrupting elements of the mounting block (low-current) are located under the glove compartment. The assembly is fastened to the body with two latches with a pivoting mechanism. Covered with upholstery held by two buttons.

Working with the under-hood fuse box

1. We raise the hood.
2. We open the lid. This can be done by pulling the lever on the back of the PCB assembly case. Does not work? Take a medium flat screwdriver and insert it into the cover lock. Slightly tilt the screwdriver and the lid rises. We remove it.
3. On the inside of the lid there is a special tweezers fixed in the grooves. It is very convenient for them to remove the fuses. Using pliers can damage the body if squeezed too hard. Please note that tweezers are only found in the box near the power unit. There are also slots for spare fuses on the cover and there should be a schematic graphical representation of the location of the fuses and relays.
4. We check the diagram and use tweezers to remove the burnt element, and then insert a new one.
5. We test the operation of the appliance and close the box, after placing the tweezers in the nest.

Working with the passenger compartment fuse box

The most common electrical problems:

The air conditioner does not turn on.

1. This unit in FordFocus 2 is switched on only if the ambient temperature is not lower than +5. First of all, make sure there is enough Freon in the system. A special pressure sensor is responsible for this. If the pressure is sufficient, it transmits a signal to the electronic control unit and the interrupting element of the air conditioning compressor clutch is switched.
2. If, when you turn on the air conditioner, you hear a click of the clutch engagement and the engine does not increase speed, then you need to make sure that the compressor shaft pulley rotates.
3. If the pulley is stationary, open the block near the engine, look at the fuse F27 (10A) on the cover and check its condition. This PP is responsible for supplying current to the clutch. We remind you that the marking and color of the case is different, depending on the year of manufacture of the Ford Focus 2 and the fuse assembly option.
4. If replacing the fuse is not required, then check F35 (10 A), which is responsible for supplying power to the air conditioning compressor relay.
5. If everything is in order here, we clarify where it is located and diagnose the compressor relay. You can only make sure that this element is in good working order by replacing it.
6. The last option is to make sure that the hoses and wiring are intact, especially the wires going to the coupling, where a break occurs most often.

The beep has disappeared (beep)

1. Check F20 (15 A) in the assembly under the hood.
2. If it is intact, you must try the dial tone. To do this, remove the radiator grille and connect it to the 12 V horn contacts. The easiest way to do this is from the battery. No sound - replacement.
3. If the horn functions, then there is a break in the wiring or it is necessary to clean the horn contacts on the steering wheel.

Instrument panel power supply

Rear window heating disappears

1. Most often, a breakage of the filament on the glass is possible. Carefully inspect and, if necessary, seal the break with glue and silver or, in extreme cases, replace the threads.
2. Checking F52 (25A). Location: PP block in the cabin.
3. We call the wiring, clean the switch contacts.

Important! If, when replacing a fuse, it quickly blows out again, you should ring the entire power supply circuit of this device.

The simplest and most common method for checking fuses is to replace them. Defective fuses sometimes do not visually differ from the working ones, they can even be called by the tester.

This note says where the fuses in the Ford Focus 2 car are located, the diagram and fuse numbers. What fuses are used.

In a Ford Focus 2 (dorestyle) car, medium-sized flat plug fuses are installed, also called blade fuses. Fig. 1 Medium size automotive fuses

At the end of the fuse, you can see the number corresponding to the maximum current that can flow through the fuse (fuse rating).

Also, the fuse rating can be determined by the color of the insulator:

1A - black
2A - gray
3A - purple
4A - pink
5A - orange-yellow
7,5A - brown

10A - red
15A - blue
20A - yellow
25A - white
30A - green
35A - light purple

40A - orange
60A - blue
70A - brown
80A - light yellow
100A - lilac

If the current exceeds the fuse rating, the metal plate located inside the fuse will burn out (melt). A blown fuse will open the electrical circuit in which it is installed. This protects electrical appliances from failure and the machine from fire. Fig. 2 Working fuse and blown

In a Ford Focus 2 (dorestyle) car, the fuses are located in two blocks, one of which is located under the hood of the car, and the other under the dashboard on the passenger side (under the glove compartment, popularly referred to as the "glove compartment").

The fuse box, located in the engine compartment, is located on the left side, near the battery.

It is convenient to open the fuse box cover with a small flat screwdriver, which must be inserted into the cover lock and tilted slightly towards the car radiator. Then remove the cover. Fig. 3 Screwdriver inserted into the cover lock

Tweezers are stored on the inside of the lid, which are used to remove and replace fuses. There is no such tweezers in the fuse box under the glove compartment! Fig. 4 Tool for removing fuses

The fuse diagram in the block, which is installed in the engine compartment, is shown in the photo. This scheme corresponds to Ford Focus 2 cars produced until the end of 2007, that is, Ford Focus 2 dorestyle. Fig. 5 Fuse diagram in the engine compartment Ford Focus 2 Fig. 6 Fuse numbers in the engine compartment Ford Focus 2

Inside the car, the fuse box is suspended under the glove compartment and is secured with two locks similar to self-tapping screws. The locks must be turned counterclockwise, after which the front of the block is folded down. The unit can be slightly raised and pushed back, then it will fold back wider and access to the fuses will be more convenient.
Fig. 7 Location of fuses in the passenger compartment Ford Focus 2

The fuse numbers are printed on the fuse block. They are hard to see in the photograph. On the diagram, they are located as follows:
Fig. 8 Scheme of the fuse box located in the passenger compartment of Ford Focus 2

The table below shows the correspondence of fuse numbers to their ratings, as well as the electrical circuits in which they are installed.

This car model is very common, the second generation of "Tricks" was produced in the period from 2004 to 2011. Despite the reliability of the brand, any car sooner or later has problems related to the electrics, devices and equipment. If you bought a used car, it is not known what the previous owner did with it, so before operating it is worth checking all the fuses and relays of the Ford Focus 2. Therefore, during operation, defects, missing contacts and other unpleasant surprises may appear.

The new Ford Focus 2 may also have some electrical problems, and over time, poor-quality soldering, oxidation of contacts, etc., makes themselves felt. To cope with all possible problems, you need to be fully armed.

Fuse box in the passenger compartment Ford Focus 2

The fuse numbering differs on models from 2007 to 2011 and from 2004 to 2007. Since 2007, the block numbering goes from 100 fuse numbers, and in models up to 2007, the fuse numbers start with F37.

Fuses and relays for the Ford Focus 2 are located in the block, under the dashboard on the right, on the passenger side under the glove compartment. To get any fuse out of it, it is convenient to use tweezers.

Cabin fuse box in models up to 2007:	Cabin fuse box in models after 2007:

Both old and new serial numbers are listed below for each fuse.
The first number is for new models (starting from 2007), then the second number in brackets is for older models before 2007. This is followed by the amperage rating, description, and possible solutions to the associated problems.

F100 (F70), 10A - power supply of electronic modules from the ignition switch.

F101 (F40), 20A - electric sliding sunroof, heated driver's seat, electric roof (for removable).
If your sunroof stops opening, check the ambient temperature. At subzero temperatures, he could just freeze. In this case, warm it up by driving into a warm garage or heated box. In the worst case, the hatch opening / closing mechanism itself could be damaged. To get to it, you need to remove the roof sheathing. Check that the glass does not bite anywhere, that the cables and gears are intact.

F102 (F43), 10A - stove regulator, steering column, diesel fuel filter, remote control receiver.
If your stove stops working only in certain positions - in the last, 4th position it works, and in the first it does not, the point is in the resistor (additional resistance). To replace the resistor, you need to remove the pedal assembly to get to the place of its installation, disconnect the connector, unscrew the bolts and get the burned out resistor, then install the worker in its place. The price of the resistor is within 1000 rubles.

If the stove does not work in any of the positions, check the R10 relay in the unit under the hood, the coolant level, the serviceability of the heater mode switch knob, as well as its contacts. The stove motor could also have burned out. To change it and get to the heater, you need to remove the dashboard. You can do this without removing the panel with some experience and dexterity.

Also check the power fuse for the heater motor F10 in the unit under the hood.
If the stove is blowing only with cold air, the damper adjustment cable could fly off.
If a whistle appears during the operation of the stove, disassemble the heater and lubricate the fan.
If extraneous sounds come from the space under the radio, check the interior temperature sensor, which is installed there together with the fan.

F103 (F49), 10A - external light controls, battery power.

F104 (F80), 10A - energy saving system, interior light.

F105 (F52), 25A - rear window heating.
If the rear window heating does not turn on for you, it is possible that the matter is in the torn threads of the heating elements. Inspect them visually and, if there are breaks, replace them with new ones or glue them. You can glue it with glue with silver, the price of such glue is about 300 rubles.

There may also be a break in the wiring, ring the wire going from the switch to the rear window. Also check the switch and its contacts.

F106 (F41), 20A - keyless control system.

F107 (F46), 10A - instruments on the panel, OBD.
If the malfunction lamps start to light up on the dashboard or the devices stop working, the matter may not be in the devices themselves, but in the panel. But check this fuse first. Sometimes the car may not start at all or have problems with gear shifting on the move. By moving the panel, you can understand whether the errors disappear or not.

In models before 2007, the problem lies in the poor soldering of the contacts. To repair, you need to remove the panel and check the contacts on the board at the place where the connector is attached. Check all the tracks at the same time. Solder well cracked and crumbled contacts. If you do not know how to work with a soldering iron, it is better to entrust this work to an electrician.

If you decide to replace the dashboard with a new one, it is better to contact a car service, because in this case a flashing will be required - prescribing keys for the immobilizer operation, configuration of the panel and control units.

F108 (F68), 7.5A - audio system, radio tape recorder, GPS navigation.

If the radio stops working, check this fuse. Most head units (Ford 6000CD or Sony) may not work due to blocking and require you to enter a code. This happens after a power outage (for example, when replacing or disconnecting the battery). If you enter the wrong code several times, the radio is permanently blocked. The unlock code can usually be found in documents or in the interior of the car (on the inside of the glove compartment lid). When buying from hands, you can ask the old owner, when buying at a car dealership, contact a dealer.

F109 (F39), 20A - cigarette lighter, 12 V socket in the center armrest or in the back.

If the cigarette lighter does not work and you used its connector to connect any devices (navigator, recorder, pump, vacuum cleaner, etc.), most likely due to the mismatch of the connectors, a short circuit occurred and this fuse burned out. Replace it with a worker, even if you cannot see the traces of the break.
If the fuse is new, but the cigarette lighter still does not work, check the contacts themselves to the connector inside the panel and the wiring.

F110 (F71), 10A - outside light, daytime running lights.

F111 (F51), 15A - fuel pump for a gasoline engine.
If the engine does not start and gasoline does not flow into it, the matter may be in this fuse and relay R19. When the ignition is turned on, it is possible to determine by ear whether the pump is turned on.

If there was any severe shock or accident before the breakdown, the emergency fuel switch was most likely tripped. Located under the driver's door sill trim at the front. Check its performance by short-circuiting the contacts in the connector directly. If the pump starts up in this case, replace the switch.

If the fuel pump itself is faulty, you will have to change it, it is located in the gas tank, the price of a new one is about 15,000 rubles. To remove the old one, you must first remove the tank.

F112 (F58), 15A - audio system, radio tape recorder, telephone.
See information about F8.

F113 (F45), 10A - outside light, sidelights, parking light.

F114 (F67), 10A - instruments on the panel (powered by the generator), immobilizer.
If the gauges do not work, see also information on F107.
If the immobilizer does not work, then the car can be started with any key, even not registered as a label. If the immobilizer is working, the car can be started only with two keys registered in the ECU. For theft, they usually connect to the diagnostic connector and prescribe a label for their key.

You can protect yourself from theft by changing the order of the wires in the diagnostic connector and making an adapter, which you should not forget to carry with you to the car service and to the dealer. It will not be superfluous to install a car beacon to determine the location of the car in case of theft.

F115 (F66), 7.5A - external light controls (powered by the generator).

F116 (F69), 20A - fog lamps, rear fog lamp.
If the front "fog lights" do not work, check if there is voltage on the contacts of their connectors, the ground contact, the lamps themselves in the headlights, as well as the switch on the instrument panel.

F117 (F73), 7.5A - license plate lighting lamps.

F118 (F82), 20A - rear left door module.

F119 (F59), 15A / 25A - 12 V socket in luggage compartment / towing hitch socket.

F120 (F81), 20A - rear right door module.

F121 (F86), 20A - heated front seats.
If the seat heating does not work, check the serviceability of the button on the panel, the contact on the connector under the seat, the serviceability of the wiring from the button to the heating element. The wire inside the chair could also bend; for inspection and repair, you will need to remove and disassemble the seat. Make sure that the wiring to the chair connector is intact.

Also ring the heater elements for a break. There may also be malfunctions in the control unit, which is located in the central tunnel near the gearbox. To get there, you need to remove the armrest and tunnel lining. Seat heating connection diagram.

F122 (F65), 10A - airbags.
If the icon for the absence of pillows lights up on the panel, but there was no accident, the matter may be in the contact of the pillows sensor connectors. The airbag connectors are located in the steering wheel, above the glove compartment, under the driver's seat. The pillow block is located between the seats.

If the problem cannot be resolved, it is better to contact a car service. Replace pillows with new ones if necessary.

F123 (F42), 7.5A - heated side mirrors.
If the heating of one of the side mirrors does not work, check the heating element and the wiring to it. In case of failure, replace the mirror element with a new one. The price of a new one is about 1000 rubles.
If the heating of both mirrors does not work, most likely the matter is in the power button or wiring, but malfunctions of the elements are also possible.

F124 (F53), 7.5A - lamps of left dimensions, left brake lights, parking light.
F125 (F54), 7.5A - lamps of the right dimensions, right brake lights.
If only one side of the dimensions, right or left, does not work, most likely the matter is in one of these fuses or the lamps are burned out.
If none of all the size lamps works, both fuses could have failed or the problem was in the wiring.

F126 (F56), 20A - keyless entry system.

F127 (F63), 25A - power windows.
If the windows open incorrectly, to the wrong height or the closers do not work, try the following method - start the engine, lower all the windows completely with the control buttons for one long press, then lift all the windows in turn with one long movement and hold the button up to raise, turn off the engine ... Start again and try.

If any one window regulator does not work, perhaps the matter is in the mechanism, disassemble the door trim, check the serviceability of the gears and the mechanism, the absence of jamming.
If the glass moves a short distance and stops when the up or down button is pressed, the anti-pinch protection is most likely triggered. Some mechanism in the door may jam or the glass rubs against the seal.

There may also be a problem in the modules, which are different for each door. When replacing a module with a new one, a flashing is required.
If there are any other problems in operation, also try programming the window regulators - close the car, open all the windows to the end by pressing and holding the button on the key fob. Close all windows and the car.

If the mechanism or gears are damaged, the entire window regulator mechanism can be replaced. The price of the new mechanism is about 4000 rubles. Sold in car dealerships, markets, showdowns and online stores.

F128 (F64), 20A - reserve.

F129 (F50), 20A - front wipers.
If the "wipers" stopped working, the steering column switch could be worn out, check its serviceability and contacts. In the mechanism itself, parts, rods, their connections and the trapezoid could be damaged.

F130 (F76), 7.5A - not used in new ones, in old ones before 2007 - all-wheel drive module.

F131 (F78), 15A - rear wiper.
If the rear wiper does not work, turn on the switch in the passenger compartment and check the voltage at the connector. If there is no voltage, the point is in the wiring or the switch. If voltage is present, remove and disassemble the motor. Check its operation and serviceability of the mechanism, shafts. They could have gotten water, dirt or foreign objects. Having found the cause of the breakdown, clean the entire mechanism and put it back together.

F132 (F74), 15A - stop signals.
If the brake lights do not work (none), the matter may be in the switch (frog), which is located in the pedal box, as well as in the wiring that comes from this switch. Also check the lamps.

F133 (F77), 25A - central locking relay, right front door module.
F134 (F55), 20A - central locking, driver's door closing module.
If your central locking does not work, check how the alarm is connected to it, in the GEM module or in the module of one of the front doors. Try to disconnect the central locking from the alarm and check its operation. The case may be in the signaling unit, tracks and contacts on its board.

If the central lock spontaneously opens and / or closes, check the battery charge level, locks in the front doors. Disconnect and check the driver's lock actuator. There may also be a case in the button for closing one of the doors, the door is closed, and there is no signal-information in the control unit. Check if all buttons work (you can check for example by turning on the interior lighting mode, in which the light comes on when you open any door).

Also check the trunk lock contact, transmitting information to the unit about its closing.
If you have no experience, it is better to contact a car service.

F135 (F48), 20А - backlight during daylight hours.

F136 (F47), 15A - windscreen washer pump, heated washer nozzles.
If your washer stops working, check the fluid level in the washer reservoir. Perhaps the pump itself has stopped working and needs to be replaced. The nozzles could be clogged or, in the cold season, the liquid in the channels of the windscreen washer system could freeze. Also, the steering column knob for turning on the "wipers" could fail, check its contacts.

F137 (F57), 10A - sound signal of the autonomous alarm siren, electric folding side mirrors.

F139 (F38), 10A - high beam in the right headlight.

F140 (F37), 10A - high beam in the left headlight.
If you have lost the high beam in both headlights, check the steering column switch, it may be worn out, broken, or its contacts are damaged / oxidized. Also check the bulbs in the headlights for burnout.

To turn on the high beam, you need to pull the turn signal lever towards you, the first position is blinking, the second position is switching the light, after switching to the far lever it is not fixed, but returns to its previous position, but the high beam is already on, the corresponding lamp lights up on the panel.

F141 (F84), 10A - reversing lamp, electric side mirror adjustment, rear wiper.
If your reverse light does not come on, check the light bulb and contacts in the connector. Otherwise, the matter is in the reverse gear sensor, which could fail, is located on the gearbox. You can get to it from under the hood by removing the air filter. Unscrewed with a 22 key. Replace the sensor with a new one.
If the rear wiper does not work, see also information on F131.

F142 (F60), 15A - low beam in the right headlight (models after 2007) / in the left headlight (models before 2007).
F143 (F61), 15A - low beam in the left headlight (models after 2007) / in the right headlight (models before 2007).
If the dipped beam is off, check if the light switch is in the correct position. In the first position, it includes the dimensions, in the second, the headlights. Check it for serviceability. Check the pins of the connectors in the headlights, lamps and wiring.

Block in the engine compartment

Most of the relays and some of the fuses are also located in the mounting block under the hood of the car.

Fuses under the hood

F1, 40A - radiator cooling fan.
If the cooling fan does not turn on, it is possible that the coolant simply does not heat up to the desired temperature. Check its level in the expansion tank. Top up if necessary. The fan usually turns on at a coolant temperature of about 100 degrees. It could also be due to the operation of the thermostat.

If it works correctly on a cold, running engine, the lower branch pipe should be cold. The coolant temperature sensor could also fail.
Also check the performance of the fan motor itself by applying a 12 V voltage directly from the battery.

F2, 80A - power steering.

If your power steering stopped working, the steering wheel began to spin hard, with difficulty, first check the fluid level in the power steering tank. If the level is low or not there, most likely there is a leak in some hose or its connections. To check, add fluid to the normal level (a special fluid for hydraulic systems is poured, do not confuse it with a brake one, otherwise the power steering pump will fail), turn the steering wheel in different directions, while asking someone to look at the hoses under the hood coming from the power steering tank.

If you are doing the diagnostics alone, turn the steering wheel to the extreme position and inspect all hoses for leaks or traces of fluid. Replace a worn hose with a new one. Also inspect the power steering pump itself, you may find leaks at the connections of the fittings.
If the steering wheel spins tightly only at idle, and at rpm above 1000 it starts spinning easily, most likely the matter is in the belt tension or in the power steering pump. The defective pump can be repaired or replaced with a new one.

F3, 60A - cabin fuse box.
F4, 60A - cabin fuse box.

F5, 80A - air conditioner, climate control.

If your air conditioner stopped working after winter, most likely you need diagnostics and replacement of oil seals, or refueling. It could also be a burst hose. In winter, you need to periodically turn on the air conditioner so that gas circulates through the system. This should be done in a warm place, because at temperatures below +5 degrees, the air conditioner is usually not turned on.

If during the operation of the air conditioner the air temperature is not low enough for cooling, most likely there is not enough freon in the system. Check the pressure and fill the system with freon. To find the cause and eliminate it, it is best to contact a diagnostic station or car service.

If the climate control does not work, check the coolant level. The matter may be in the heater motor, if it does not work at all. Check if the voltage reaches it by ringing the connector. You can also apply 12 V directly to the stove motor, thereby checking its functionality.
If air blows only in certain air ducts, when the required mode is turned on, there is no air supply from some hole, most likely the matter is in the malfunction of the dampers, and possibly the heater unit that controls them. To eliminate it, you need to disassemble the torpedo.

F6, 60A - reserve.

F7, 30A - ABS hydraulic pump.

F8, 20A - ABS valves.

F9, 20A - winding and contacts of the main relay.

F10, 30A - stove fan motor.
If the stove does not work, see information on F102.

F11, 20A - ignition switch.

F12, 40A - ignition relay circuit.

F13, 20A - starter.
If, when turning the key, the engine does not start and the sound of the starter is not heard, most likely your battery is dead. Charge it or replace it with a new one. Also check the ignition switch, terminal block and wiring. Another matter may be in the retractor relay, bendix and bad contacts.

F14, 40A - windshield heating element on the right.

F15, 30A - radiator cooling fan relay.
See information about F1.

F16, 40A - left windshield heating element.

F17, 30A - reserve.
F18 - reserve.

F19, 10A - ABS anti-lock control unit.

F20, 15A - sound signal.
To get to the horn, you need to remove the trim over the radiator grill. Test the beep by connecting a 12V battery to it. If it works, then it's the wiring or contacts on the steering wheel.

F21, 20A - additional heater, heater.

Relay under the hood

In addition to the power fuses under the hood, the mounting block contains the relays of the vehicle's main circuits.

R1 is reserved.
R2 - horn relay.
R3 is reserved.
R4 is reserved.
R5 is reserved.
R6 - main relay, engine control.
R7 - relay for windshield heating elements.
R8 - ignition relay.
R9 - headlight washer relay.
R10 - stove fan motor relay.
R11 - air conditioning compressor relay.
R12 is reserved.
R13 - starter traction relay.
R14 - radiator cooling fan motor relay.

I hope this information will help you quickly find the cause of the breakdown and quickly fix it. I advise you to always carry spare fuses with you and if you have any problems, the first thing to do is to inspect the fuses and relays associated with the device.

Outwardly, when viewed, the fuse may look intact, but in fact, when installed in a mounting block, it does not work. Even a tester ringing a removed fuse may indicate that it is working, but if there are microcracks, its work will not work properly. Therefore, it is advisable to immediately change the problematic fuses to obviously new and serviceable ones. This will save your nerves and help you find the cause faster.

Good day. Today a Ford Focus 2 restaling (2008-2011) came to our car service. He came to us with a problem in electronics. After connecting the DVR, which shorted, many fuses flew out. Therefore, in this article, we will tell you how to remove and replace fuses under the hood and in the cabin of the Ford Focus 2 restyling. We will also show you the circuit and the location of the fuses in the car.

Vendor code: Fuses and relays of all ratings

Tools: To replace the fuses in the Ford Focus 2 restyling, there is a special tweezers under the hood

Scheme and location of fuses on the Ford Focus 2 restyling:

The first step is to open the hood. Then, under the number 8, you will see the fuse box.

The fuse box under the hood is highlighted with a red line.

Open the fuse cover under the hood.

By flipping the fuse cover, you will see the purpose of each of them.

Another photo of the cover with the fuse diagram.

Now let's look at the fuse numbers and their descriptions.

The location of the fuse box in the passenger compartment. Removing and replacing fuses

Now we go to the salon. The fuse box is located under the glove compartment.

We remove the protective shelf. To do this, simply pull it down.

Then we unscrew the 2 clips of the fuse box.

And we pull down the fuse box.

Fuse block diagram in the cabin of the Ford Focus 2 restyling:

Passenger compartment fuse box values \u200b\u200btable: