Timing replacement Lada Granta 8 valves required once every 75 thousand kilometers. If you ignore the planned replacement of the belt, tension roller and sometimes the pump (coolant pump), then you can run into a serious repair of the Lada Granta engine. After all, a break in the timing belt almost always leads to damage to valves, valve seats and even pistons. Therefore, the timing drive must be treated very carefully. Once 15 thousand, it is imperative to inspect the belt for breaks, cracks, delamination or oiling.

A detailed diagram of the timing drive Lada Granta more.

• 1 - crankshaft toothed pulley
• 2 - toothed pulley of the coolant pump
• 3 - tension roller
• 4 - back protective cover
• 5 - toothed pulley of a camshaft
• 6 - timing belt
• A - lug on the rear protective cover
• B - mark on the camshaft pulley
• C - mark on the cover of the oil pump
• D - mark on the crankshaft pulley.

To replace the timing belt, we should remove the alternator belt or accessory belt for Grant with air conditioning. With a "5" hexagon, unscrew the four screws securing the front upper timing cover and remove the plastic casing.

To avoid damage to the crankshaft position sensor, remove it as well. With the ignition off, squeeze the lock of the wiring harness block and disconnect the block from the sensor connector. Using the "10" head, unscrew the sensor mounting bolt.

We take out the sensor from the tide hole of the oil pump cover and put it aside in a place where there are no steel filings that could subsequently disrupt the operation of the sensor.

Before dismantling the belt, it is necessary to check the valve timing of the engine - set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC (top dead center) position of the compression stroke. Using the “17” head, turn the crankshaft clockwise by the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley until the mark 1 on the camshaft toothed pulley aligns with the tide 2 on the rear cover of the timing drive.

To make sure that the crankshaft is in the correct position, remove the rubber plug of the sight glass at the top of the clutch housing. Risk 2 on the flywheel should be located opposite the slot 1 of the scale that is visible in the window of the clutch housing cover.

Before unscrewing the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley, we ask the assistant to fix the crankshaft from turning by inserting a screwdriver through the window in the clutch housing between the flywheel teeth.

Using the "17" head, unscrew the bolt securing the generator drive pulley, remove the pulley and washer.

With a "5" hexagon, unscrew the three screws securing the front lower timing cover. Remove the cover.

Using a 15 spanner spanner, weaken the tightening of the tension roller bolt.

This will rotate the tension roller and release the belt tension. Remove the timing belt from the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys. We take out the belt from the engine compartment Grants.

Attention! After removing the timing belt, the crankshaft and camshafts must not be turned to avoid the pistons sticking into the valves. The dimensions of the timing belt of the Lada Granta timing belt with an 8-valve engine are 17 mm wide, the number of teeth is 113.

To remove the timing belt tensioner, unscrew the bolt and remove the tensioner along with the bolt.

We rotate the plastic clip of the roller, holding it by the eccentric. The roller should rotate quietly, evenly and without jamming. Otherwise, the roller must be replaced.

At the same time, you can check the serviceability of the coolant pump by twisting and shaking it by the pulley. We install the tension roller in place, completely without tightening the bolt of its fastening. For different engine modifications, two threaded holes are made in the cylinder head for the tension roller bolt. Screw the roller mounting bolt into the upper hole of the cylinder head. In the photo below, the hole is indicated by a red arrow.

Install the Grant timing belt in reverse order. Before installing the belt, make sure that the timing marks of the crankshaft and camshaft are aligned. We put the belt on the crankshaft toothed pulley, then tightening both branches of the belt, put the rear branch on the coolant pump pulley and start it over the tension roller, and put the front branch on the camshaft pulley.

If necessary, turn the camshaft pulley in the direction of the smallest stroke until the belt teeth coincide with the pulley grooves. To tension the belt, turn the tension roller counterclockwise. To do this, insert the rods (diameter 4 mm, distance between the rods 18 mm) into the grooves of the outer disk of the roller with a special key (for clarity, it is shown on the removed roller).

Such a key was used to adjust the belt tension in all front-wheel drive VAZs, you can buy it at any auto parts store.

Also, to adjust the tension of the Lada Granta timing belt, you can use pliers to remove the retaining rings. We tighten the belt by turning the belt tension roller counterclockwise until the cutout of the outer disk of the roller coincides with the rectangular protrusion of its inner sleeve, and tighten the roller mounting bolt to a torque of 34–41 Nm.

Excessive belt tension will reduce belt life and the life of the coolant pump and idler roller bearings. Insufficient belt tension also leads to its premature failure and can cause a violation of the valve timing. We turn the crankshaft two turns clockwise. We check the belt tension and the coincidence of the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks. With the generator drive pulley removed, it is convenient to check the correct position of the crankshaft by aligning mark 1 on the crankshaft toothed pulley with rib 2 of the oil pump cover. Photo for clarity below.

If you are not confident in your abilities, then you can entrust the work of replacing the belt on the Lada Granta to a car service. For an engine with an 8-valve timing mechanism, this is cheaper than for a version with a 16-valve engine.

If the gas distribution mechanism of the Lada car breaks down, starting the engine and full operation of the car will be impossible. In order to prevent such a nuisance, it is necessary to monitor the condition of all units of the device, including timely change the timing belt to Lada Granta.

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When and how much should you change?

According to official regulations, the engine belt 21116 or 11186 changes with a run of 60 thousand kilometers. In fact, many car owners make repairs and change the timing belt, as well as the tensioner roller, usually after 50 thousand kilometers. The norm for checking the condition of the product is every 15 thousand kilometers traveled.

What signs indicate the need for replacement:

1. Wear of the strap structure. As a result of wear and tear, the product will slip on the pulleys and eventually break. This usually occurs at increased load or high humidity. A worn belt may have pieces of thread and tissue debris.
2. In most cases, the rapid wear of the product is due to the deviation of the position of the tension roller or pulley. The strap will fail faster if the operating temperature of the bearing is too high or the part is not functioning properly.
3. The appearance of cracks or delamination on the structure.
4. The working side of the belt is less elastic and harder. With such a problem, the strap may shine. Due to the increased hardness, the product will not be able to make good contact with the camshaft pulley.
5. Increasing the length of the belt. If the size of the product is larger, it must be changed. A decrease in the elastic characteristics of the strap will lead to its rapid breakage.
6. Deviation of the position of the product from the standardized indicators. This problem suggests that you need to change the tensioner pulley.

Crack on the strap structure

Causes of rapid wear

Why does the timing belt on the Lada Granta wear out:

1. Poor quality of the material from which the strap is made. Many manufacturers save on raw materials, which leads to premature product breakage.
2. Poor assembly quality of the components and mechanisms of the power unit, through which the timing belt passes.
3. Operation of a belt that has begun to wear out. When there are signs of damage on its structure, the belt should be replaced and not continued to be used.
4. Errors made during installation. If the belt is incorrectly set and does not fit tightly on the rollers and pulleys, then it will wear out much faster.
5. Failure of the tension roller. If this element is not replaced when installing a new strap, it may wear out faster, which will also lead to the product breaking.

You can learn about the consequences of the Lada Grant belt breaking from the video filmed by the user Denis Gorban.

Belt selection

Now let's figure out which one is better to choose a belt for the VAZ 2114 timing belt with eight or sixteen valves.

Buying a good product that can be installed and tightened on a gas distribution mechanism is not easy. After all, the required strap must be of high quality.

Today, consumers are offered several worthy products from manufacturers:

1. ContiTech Antriebssysteme GmbH. The original belt packaging has a QR code sticker. In the kit, you can find a label where the date of the change, vehicle mileage and information about the units that have changed in due time are noted. When carrying out repairs, installation, belt tension, as well as replacement of rollers, you can indicate all the information on paper and, if necessary, see when and what exactly changed the last time. On the strap itself, you will see the brand designation and batch number.
2. Gates 5670XS. The packaging of the original product contains a QR code, as well as a hologram designed to protect against counterfeit goods. A serial number is applied to the outside of the strap. The product comes with a sticker on which you can indicate the belt number and the date when it was replaced.
3. Trialli GD 790. Italian-made goods are sold in our market in the form of a repair kit with a tensioner roller. The product is packed in a cardboard box with a plastic insert inside. The set of this belt also includes a sticker with the vehicle mileage and the date of the part change. You will also see the warranty card here. The manufacturer took care and added detailed replacement instructions to the kit.

How to replace it yourself?

You can replace the strap on an 8 or 16 valve Lada Grant in a garage or at a service station. In order to avoid mistakes and do everything right with your own hands, follow the steps indicated in the instructions.

Required tools

Before proceeding with the task, prepare the following:

• a set of wrenches, you will need tools for 10 and 17;
• a special tool for tensioning the roller, the device can be bought at a car dealer;
• jack;
• a set of star keys;
• forceps.

Channel Dmitry Berbraer provided a video showing the consequences of a broken timing belt.

Step-by-step instruction

How to install and properly tension the product:

1. Drive the car into the garage, open the hood and loosen the bolt securing the battery terminal with a wrench. The contact is disconnected.
2. Remove the genset drive strap. To replace the timing belt, you will need to provide access to the aggregate components and mechanisms. Remove the front right wheel. Loosen the wheel bolts with a wheel wrench, unscrew them, then dismantle the wheel by placing the front of the car on a jack.
3. Remove the bolts securing the upper timing belt cover. The plastic cover is used as protection, remove it. After that, set the first piston of the vehicle power unit to the top dead center position.
4. The next step is to adjust the tensioner roller nut. Correct setting of this element ensures a long service life of the strap. To dismantle the drive belt, unscrew the roller nut with a wrench, this will weaken the product. After completing the task, you can proceed with the removal. It will not work to dismantle the belt by cutting it without unscrewing the screws. In any case, the rollers will have to be unscrewed in order to install a new strap in the future.
5. Remove the main alternator pulley screw using a wrench. When difficulties arose during the dismantling process and the bolt does not come out of the shaft, remove the plug located in the clutch housing of the machine. If you have a mounting blade, then you need to fix the teeth of the flywheel with it. A long screwdriver can be used if necessary. This will prevent the generator set pulley bolt from turning as the crankshaft is secured with a tool.
6. Remove the generator shaft. This procedure is performed after the scapula is removed. When the pulley is removed, it should be set aside on a clean surface. Make sure that no dirt adheres to it, otherwise it may cause seizure.
7. The next step will be to dismantle the lower part of the timing mechanism drive. To do this, unscrew the three fixing screws. Set the drive aside.
8. Then the strap is removed - first from the camshaft, and then from the crankshaft. When dismantling, assess the condition of the roller. If it is worn out or there is a large gap in the mechanism, it must be replaced. Experts recommend doing this at every belt change. During further installation, the strap must be pulled first over the crankshaft and then over the camshaft pulley. In this case, it is important to observe the tension force. If the belt is too tight, it will wear out quickly, just as if it is loose. The assembly procedure for parts is carried out in reverse order.

The cost of a belt produced by Continental averages 800 rubles. The Gates product will cost the consumer about 1100 rubles. This option is considered optimal and reliable among car owners. You can purchase a Trialli belt, its cost is about 1900 rubles, but the package includes not only a strap, but also a tension roller.

Consequences of a broken timing belt

If the vehicle is equipped with an 11183-50 engine, then if the belt breaks, the consequences will not be scary - the unit will stop starting and you will not be able to use the car.

When a break occurs on another engine, the problems will be serious:

1. In the event of a break, the camshaft will remain in the position in which it was working at the time of damage. In this case, the crankshaft will continue to move.
2. This will lead to the fact that the pistons will hit the engine valves with high force, which were in the open position at a break.
3. As a result of impacts, these elements will bend, possibly damage to the piston itself. With such a problem, the car owner will have to overhaul the power unit.

We hang the right front wheel and include the fifth gear in the gearbox. Turning the wheel clockwise, we turn the engine crankshaft and inspect the timing belt. With normal belt tension ...

The surface of the toothed part of the belt should not have folds, cracks, undercuts of teeth and peeling of fabric from rubber. The underside of the belt should be free of wear, exposing the cords, and signs of burning. There should be no delamination or loosening on the end surfaces of the belt. If defects are found on the belt or a significant mismatch of the belt tension control elements (see photo above), the belt must be replaced. You should also change the belt to a new one if traces of engine oil are found on it (before installing a new belt, the cause of oil getting on the belt must be eliminated) or when replacing the coolant pump.

Attention! Failure of the timing belt (breakage and shearing of teeth) can lead to the valves sticking into the pistons due to mismatch of the angles of rotation of the crankshaft and camshafts and, as a result, to expensive engine repairs.

We replace the timing belt in accordance with the maintenance regulations every 75 thousand kilometers or in case of defects on the belt.

Next, we should dismantle the alternator drive belt or the accessory drive belt.

Remove the crankshaft position sensor to avoid damage.

Before dismantling the belt, it is necessary to check the valve timing of the engine - set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC (top dead center) position of the compression stroke.

Before unscrewing the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley ...

Using the "17" head, unscrew the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley, ..

This will rotate the tension roller and release the belt tension. Remove the timing belt from the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys.

Attention! After removing the timing belt, the crankshaft and camshafts must not be turned to avoid the pistons sticking into the valves.

To remove the belt tension roller, unscrew the bolt of its fastening ...

The roller should rotate quietly, evenly and without jamming. Otherwise, the roller must be replaced. At the same time, you can check the serviceability of the coolant pump by twisting and shaking it by the pulley. We install the tension roller in place, completely without tightening the bolt of its fastening. For different engine modifications, two threaded holes are made in the cylinder head for the tension roller bolt.

Install the timing belt in reverse order. Before installing the belt, make sure that the timing marks of the crankshaft and camshaft are aligned. We put the belt on the crankshaft toothed pulley, then ...

If necessary, turn the camshaft pulley in the direction of the smallest stroke until the teeth of the belt coincide with the grooves of the pulley. To tension the belt, turn the tension roller counterclockwise. To do this, we insert into the grooves of the outer disk of the roller ...

Such a key was used to adjust the belt tension in all front-wheel drive VAZs.

We tighten the belt by turning the belt tension roller counterclockwise ...

… Until the cutout of the outer disk of the roller coincides with the rectangular protrusion of its inner sleeve, and tighten the roller mounting bolt to a torque of 34–41 Nm.

… Until the cutout of the outer disk of the roller coincides with the rectangular protrusion of its inner sleeve, and tighten the roller mounting bolt to a torque of 34–41 Nm.

Excessive belt tension will reduce belt life and the life of the coolant pump and idler roller bearings. Insufficient belt tension also leads to its premature failure and can cause a violation of the valve timing. We turn the crankshaft two turns clockwise. We check the belt tension and the coincidence of the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks. With the generator drive pulley removed, it is convenient to control the correct position of the crankshaft ...

The release of the domestic modification Lada Granta has been carried out for several years. The car has gained significant credibility due to its acceptable quality and level of performance, as well as the presence of several different versions of the equipment.

Today we will figure out when to change the timing belt, as well as which timing belt is better.

Some general provisions on the belt

The timing in any engine serves to ensure the timely intake of the prepared mixture and the release of exhaust gases. The composition of this node implies the presence of such elements:

• camshaft and crankshaft;
• the valves themselves with oil seals, springs, guide bushings and other parts.

Which timing belt is better? Separately, in the specified mechanism, the belt mechanism is positioned, acting as a connecting link between the camshaft (or two) and the crankshaft. It is the belt drive that is able to provide synchronization in the functioning of the elements included in the timing kit.

Finding this important element on the motor does not take much effort. To do this, you just have to open the hood lid of the Lada Granta and a closed with a special casing will appear in front of you. This protection prevents contamination and the ingress of foreign objects and dirt.

The design of the belt mechanism includes a rubber base and a working inner surface made in the form of teeth with a certain pitch.

What are the AvtoVAZ factory regulations in terms of replacement?

Cars of the Lada Granta model line are equipped with various versions of the power unit. Some of them are not without problems in the event of an unpleasant breakage of the belt drive. This is caused by the collision of the pistons with the valves, as a result of which the latter are bent, and the motor requires repair.

The possibility of bending (if a break occurs) is absent on the 11183-50 version of the motor, which is equipped with the standard equipment.

Another not unimportant question: when to change the timing belt? To exclude this unpleasant situation, the manufacturer deliberately regulated the periodic period for the mandatory replacement of the specified "consumable". The answer to the question of how long to change the timing belt from the manufacturer's company is after 15 thousand kilometers. This requirement applies to both 8-valve motors and their 16-valve modifications.

Even in spite of the equipment of the modification "21116" with a motor with an imported head, if the belt breaks, a similar sad fate awaits him.

The manufacturer does not recommend independent implementation of the procedure for checking the condition of the belt and for replacing it. And therefore, when the time has come to change the timing belt, you should contact the service center. If the fact of the handwritten execution of the indicated operation is revealed, the probability of depriving the owner of the possibility of warranty service is high. For self-replacement, the manufacturer provides an authorization regarding:

• cabin filter;
• a similar element for the intake system.

However, on their own, many car owners still carry out the replacement, but not all newly-made drivers know how much to change the timing belt, and which timing belt is better than the rest.

Many owners of Lada Granta, especially those equipped with 16-valve versions of power units, recommend not to wait for the coveted mark of 60 thousand km. This is due to the possibility of using low-quality components capable of provoking wear of the replaced elements after a run of 20 thousand km.

This fact prompts many "Grantavodov" to resort to the use of products with good quality, and many of them, when asked which timing belt is better, answer that from the manufacturer "Gates". But we note that there are fakes of spare parts of this brand, and therefore, it is recommended to stop at purchasing items only from trusted suppliers.

If you set out to replace the component yourself, then you should not neglect some of the following guidelines. In particular, do not forget to observe the interval after how much to change the timing belt.

After hitching the belt, its correct tension is required. This is done by using a dedicated key. Some "leaders" will object, they say, you can do without him. However, here it is very problematic to dare to guarantee a high-quality result.
The force applied to the belt branch (when turning it through a 90-degree angle) located between two shafts (commonly known: camshafts and crankshafts) should not exceed 20 Nm, but it should not be less than 15 Nm either. If there is no "hit" in the indicated interval of parameters, then this indicates an incorrect belt tension. The consequence is one - a new adjustment!

What are the signs of a worn out belt?

The indicated factors will make it possible to accurately determine the moment of the onset of damage to the Lada Granta belt, which will prevent an unexpected onset of its failure (breakage). When to change the timing belt, how to understand that it is worn out?

1. Among the primary signs, there is a significant degree of material wear. This fact will easily provoke slipping or breakage of the "consumable" with an insignificant load on the motor or in conditions of high atmospheric humidity.
2. The appearance of wear is often provoked by a violation of the correct position of the roller in relation to the pulley. This can be confirmed by the increased heating of the bearing and the fabric remnants of worn out cords sticking out to the sides, which are used to reinforce the rubber base of the belt.
3. The next sign will be the fact of the presence of cracks and delamination. The greater the number of these defects, the higher the chance of a speedy belt break.
4. If excessive hardness appears on the back surface, the presence of gloss can give it away. This factor, associated with a loss of elasticity, indicates a loss of sufficient contact between the belt and the pulleys.
5. During operation, it is possible to lengthen the belt surface, which can provoke its jumping on the teeth of the shaft pulley. Replacing the belt in this case is unambiguous.
6. Failure of the roller, as a direct evidence of the incorrect position of the belt in relation to its working plane.

What are the consequences of the cliff?

As agreed, no problems with the Lada Granta engine in the 8 valve version, if the belt drive breaks, does not arise only in the 11183-50 version of the unit. The rest of the engines are at risk of failure in the indicated unpleasant incident.
In view of this, there was a dispute among Grantavodov about the advantages of LADA Granta engines with 16 and 8 valves, and which unit has more of them. Your point of view will also be very interesting.

In the event of a break in the belt drive, the camshaft stops in a position corresponding directly to the moment of breakdown. In contrast, the crankshaft is subject to continued rotation. This causes the pistons to hit the valves that were in the open position at a given moment. Further, the latter is bent, but sometimes there is a breakdown of the piston crown. In the popular way "fist of friendship"!

It is precisely based on this fact that experts are inclined to recommend changing the timing kit of the required period of action previously declared by the manufacturer.

findings

Now you know how long it takes to change the timing belt. Undoubtedly, a broken LADA Granta belt is a source of unprecedented problems. This circumstance does not mean that one should be inactive. Below are some recommendations, whose goal is to minimize the indicated risk.

1. Be very careful when checking the belt for wear. This action is recommended to be carried out after 10-15 thousand km.

2. Do not neglect checking the condition of the oil seals. The defect manifests itself in the form of characteristic stains under the underside of the vehicle.

3. The flashing of the lamp registering the oil pressure in the LADA Granta engine may indicate a problem. If this fact manifests itself, we urgently turn off the engine and take measures to find the source of the breakdown.

4. Use only original spare parts, although the procedure for monitoring their condition has not been canceled.

In today's test, we will focus on the most important drive in a car - the timing drive, or timing. We will test timing belts for the most popular car on the Russian market - Lada Granta with an 8-valve 21116 engine and its modifications (a round-toothed belt with 113 teeth and a width of 17 mm).

The tests will take place in two stages: bench and resource.

The first is divided into several tests, but the results of the resource test will be known only by the end of the summer. So, let's see.

During a search in stores, it turned out that in our region you can buy this belt from only three manufacturers: ContiTech, Gates and Trialli.

The first two belts can be purchased separately, only the Trialli is sold as a tensioner pulley repair kit.

Continental CT 1164

Producer: ContiTech Antriebssysteme GmbH (Germany)

Price: 800 rubles

Belt in branded cardboard packaging, on the box - a sticker with a QR code. The kit contains a sticker on which the date of replacement and mileage are indicated, as well as which of the nodes - the roller, belt, pump - have been replaced. It is convenient: you will not need to suffer to remember when the last belt change was made and what exactly was replaced. On the belt, in addition to brand and general designations, a batch number is applied.

Gates 5670XS

Producer: Gates Corporation (Belgium)

Price: 1100 rubles

The belt is in a branded cardboard box, there is a QR code and a holographic sticker to protect against counterfeiting. The belt is individually numbered on the outside. The set includes a sticker for filling, where you must enter the serial number of the product, individual for each belt, and the date of replacement.

Trialli GD 790

Manufacturer: Trialli S.L.R (Italy, developed under the supervision of Carville LLC in China)

Set price: 1900 rubles (1000 rubles + 900 rubles video)

The belt is sold only as a repair kit along with a tension roller, the whole kit is packed in a cardboard box with a plastic insert inside. The belt comes with a sticker with the mileage and date of replacement, as well as a warranty card with instructions on how to replace the belt - this is a plus.

Test procedure

Strength tests of belts were carried out in the testing laboratory of PJSC NPO Zavod Volna on tensile testing machines R-10 and MR-05.

Frost resistance and endurance tests were carried out in the testing laboratory of NPO Talis.

The testing of the timing belts was carried out in accordance with TU 38.1051912-90 "Toothed belts with a parabolic tooth profile for engines of VAZ vehicles". The factor of the parabolic profile standard for belts with a rounded profile in this case is not significant, since the tested belts are actually intended for the good old "eight" engine, which means that the forces transmitted by the timing belt remained at the same level.

The first test was the bending resistance of the belts. This test uses a smooth pulley with a diameter of 50 mm. One belt of each type undergoes an artificial aging procedure, which is carried out as follows: the belt is placed in a heat chamber with a temperature of 120 degrees and kept for 70 hours. The other belt is frozen together with the pulley at -45 degrees for 24 hours.

After the belts are taken out, and they are bent over a smooth pulley with teeth outward 180 degrees. Breaks and cracks are not allowed in the bend zone. The frozen belt is bent on the pulley previously cooled with the belt.

All belts passed this test.

At the next stage, we checked the strength properties of the belts.

First, the belts were tested for breaking force. According to the standard, the minimum belt breaking strength should be at least 8 kN / cm for a new belt and 7 kN / cm for a belt that has undergone artificial aging. Thus, with a belt width of 17 mm, the minimum breaking force should be at least 13 600 N, and for artificially aged ones - at least 11 900 N.

This test is carried out as follows: the belts are installed with their teeth outward on smooth cylindrical pulleys and stretched at a speed of 50 ± 15 mm / min until rupture on a R-10 tensile testing machine.

The results of tensile tests are given in Table 1.

As can be seen from the test results, all belts have a good margin of cord strength (1.43 to 1.8 before aging and 1.68 to 2.1 after aging). Continental CT 1164 belts have the strongest cords: they can withstand loads of up to 2.5 tons.

But in a belt, the strength of the cord is not the most important indicator. Therefore, as a second strength test, the tooth resistance to tearing of new belts and artificially aged ones was checked. This indicator should be at least 92 kgf for every centimeter of belt width - both new and aged. Knowing that the width of the tested belts is 17 mm, we obtain a force of 156.4 kgf.

This test is carried out using a special tool that has a toothed pulley with a tooth profile that matches the belt being tested. The device contains a calibration spring, which presses the belt through the metal plate to the toothed pulley with the required force, in our case it is 119 N. The belt is cut, one end is installed in the device so that the fifth tooth from the top of the cut belt falls into the pulley socket. The lower end is fixed in the clamp, and the MP-05 tensile testing machine pulls down on it.

The results of this test are shown in Table 2.

On the new belts, the cut of the teeth did not occur: the rubber is still plastic, the tooth simply deforms and jumps over. But in aged belts on their "strengthened" teeth there is a cut of the tooth - this is what happened with the Continental CT 1164 and Trialli GD 790; Gates 5670XS had a tooth deformity and jumped over. The test results show that all belts have a good shear strength (from 1.95 to 2.43 before aging and from 2.1 to 2.51 after aging). The most resistant to cutting a tooth was the Trialli timing belt.

Some may find it strange that the strength increases after artificial aging. This is due to the properties of heat-resistant rubbers, which are used to make belts: with prolonged heating, their internal bonds are strengthened.

According to statistics, replacing the timing belt tension rollers occurs more often than replacing the belt itself. Therefore, it is worthwhile to periodically listen to if there is any noise from the rollers, because a failed roller will ruin the timing belt, no matter how good it is, which can lead to expensive engine repairs.

Resource test

To determine the resource of belts, there are special stands, one of which is located in the laboratory of NPO Talis LLC. This stand completely repeats the geometric arrangement of the nodes (pulleys and belt tension rollers) that come into contact with the drive belt when working on the engine, more precisely, when creating this stand, standard nodes were used, which are installed on internal combustion engines manufactured by VAZ. The stand is universal and provides for the possibility of installing belts, which are used for both 8-valve and 16-valve engines of front-wheel drive vehicles manufactured by Avtovaz. Also, by replacing the pulleys, it becomes possible to test belts with both a trapezoidal tooth shape and a semicircular one.

The belt is driven by a toothed pulley that drives a 7.5 kW electric motor - it acts as a crankshaft that forces all drive units to rotate using a timing belt. The belt is tensioned by a standard timing belt tension roller. The role of the camshaft is performed by an electric brake, which, when braking, creates a resistance of 27.5 N / m - this is a five-fold overload of the force that, during normal operation, transfers the timing belt in an 8-valve engine. Thus, we turn every hour of belt runtime at the stand into five hours of work on the car.

According to the test method TU 38.1051912 "Toothed belts for VAZ engines", the belt must run at least 100 hours, which turns into 500 hours of operating time during normal engine operation. To fully simulate the working conditions, the space in which the timing belt operates is closed with a casing with thermal insulation installed in it, and the working area is heated to a temperature of +90 degrees - this requirement is not required by the TU or in any of the test methods known to us, but we decided complicate the job for the belt. When braking, the electromagnetic brake converts all the incoming rotational energy into heat - and requires cooling, therefore an autonomous pressure cooling system is organized for the electric brake, which takes up no less space than the stand itself.

Test results

None of the timing belts we tested brought any surprises - all honestly worked the prescribed 100 hours at the stand. Upon examination after testing each timing belt, no damage was found that could indicate an imminent failure of any of the belts.

What's the bottom line?

According to the results of bench tests, it was not possible to identify a clear leader: in the tensile test, Continental turned out to be the winner, Trialli passed the tooth resistance test best of all. One way or another, all three subjects passed the tests successfully, showing good safety margins, which are almost twice the factory parameters. The Chinese belt, by the way, was not inferior to European counterparts, and even surpassed them in the tooth shift test. Any of the tested belts can be safely put on the car.

Continental CT 1164

The strongest cord of all belts we have tested: a belt can lift a load of 2.5 tons - this is the weight of a good SUV. But at the same time, the resistance of the tooth to shear is slightly lower than that of the others (it exceeds the standard by 1.95 times), however, the cost of the belt in retail is lower than that of competitors.

Gates 5670XS

The most expensive belt, perhaps, is due to the fact that it is installed at the car plant to drive the gas distribution mechanism as a regular one. The smallest cord breaking force - 19500 N without aging and 20,000 N after (exceeds the standard by 1.43 times), the force on cutting the tooth is average among the subjects.

Trialli GD 790

The undoubted disadvantage of this belt is that it cannot be bought separately, without the rollers that come with it from the manufacturer. And together with the rollers, its cost rises to 1900 rubles. This belt has an average breaking force of 19,700 N without aging and 21,000 N after, but it turned out to be the most high-torque of all: one tooth will withstand a displacement force of up to 380 kgf.