If the lateral stabilizer bushings are out of order in the suspension, this can hardly be called a critical breakdown that requires immediate repair. Because of this breakdown, the car will not lose control and the wheels will not fall off. But in order to drive a car with broken bushings, the driver will need very strong nerves. Because the knocking and grinding noise from worn bushings will be heard in any cab. In this article, we will tell the reader how to do it yourself with your own hands to replace the roll bar bushings in passenger cars, both domestic and foreign.

Anti-roll Bar Bush Functions

In most modern cars, an anti-roll bar is a required suspension element. When the car enters a corner, its roll increases and it can tip over due to centrifugal force. When the car exits a bend, its body begins to sway, making it difficult to align the trajectory. As a result, anti-roll bars appeared in the suspensions of cars to prevent unwanted swaying. The stabilizer is attached to the suspension with steel brackets, under which there are elastic bushings made of polyurethane (or extra dense rubber). Their purpose is to dampen suspension vibration and guide the stabilizer bar when entering a corner and when driving on rough roads.

Signs of wear

• Severe squeaking when driving on uneven roads. When entering a corner at high speed, this squeak turns into a grinding sound.
• Stabilizer rod play. It manifests itself in the form of a dull blow, which is heard when the front wheels of the car simultaneously fall into a deep pothole in the road.

Breakdown reasons

• Physical deterioration. Most cars (especially domestic ones) are initially equipped with rubber cross bushings, the service life of which is short. Already after 2-3 years, they fully develop their resource, become covered with cracks and fall apart (for this reason, prudent car owners change rubber bushings to polyurethane ones immediately after purchase).
• Chemical attack. Because the bushes are located close to the wheels, they are regularly exposed to anti-icing chemicals, which can significantly reduce the life of the rubber bushes.
• Mechanical impact. If the car is constantly used on roads, the quality of which leaves much to be desired, even reliable polyurethane bushings will not last long (since in such conditions they are subject to increased frictional force and are constantly subjected to strong impacts).

Which bushings to choose

When choosing new stabilizer bushings, preference should be given to polyurethane products. Motorists often opt for bushings from SASIC, 555 and TRW.

Tools and supplies

1. A set of new anti-roll bar bushings.
2. Open-end wrench set.
3. Flat screwdriver (medium size).
4. Set of socket heads with a knob.
5. 2 jacks.
6. Wheel chocks.

The sequence of replacement for a VAZ 2107

1. The car is installed on the inspection pit, after which the crankcase protection (if installed) is removed using open-ended keys. Then chocks are placed under the rear wheels of the car, and the front wheels are jacked up.
2. Now, with a 12 open-end wrench, the nuts on the brackets are unscrewed, where they are attached to the lower suspension arm. This is done on both sides of the stabilizer bar. There are engraving washers under the nuts. They are removed manually.
   Nuts are shown by arrows
3. The staples can now be removed. After removing them, the bushings can be removed. To remove them, the stabilizer bar is bent with a crowbar. The bar is held in place with a crowbar and the sleeve is removed manually. The sleeve on the other side can be removed in the same way.
   For this, scrap is used
4. In addition to the two outer bushings, the VAZ 2107 has a pair of central stabilizer bushings. If you need to replace them too, you will have to completely remove the stabilizer bar, which is attached to two brackets. The nuts on the brackets are unscrewed with an open-end wrench 14.
5. After removing the rod, the bracket is clamped in a vice, and the rod is carefully removed from the bushing, then the central bushing itself is removed.
   The bushing is inside the bracket, clamped in a vice
6. Worn bushings are replaced with new ones, after which the stabilizer bar and crankcase protection are installed in their original places.

Video on work

Important points

• Care should be taken when unscrewing the nuts on the brackets: the studs on which the brackets are attached become fragile over time and easily break with an open-end wrench.
• It should be remembered: the brackets holding the outer sleeves are different, although it is far from always possible to see this with the naked eye. The distance between the holes for the studs in the left and right brackets differs by 3 mm. Therefore, before removing it, it makes sense to mark the staples with a marker or chalk so as not to confuse them when reassembling.
• Removing the stabilizer bar from the bracket can be tricky, especially if it is badly rusted. To facilitate the task, the boom and bracket should be liberally lubricated with WD-40 fluid. If you don't have liquid on hand, a liquid dish detergent or regular soapy water will do.

The sequence of replacing bushings on Mitsubishi Pajero 4

1. Using a 12 open-end wrench, 4 bolts are unscrewed, which hold the car's crankcase protection.
   For this, 4 bolts are unscrewed
2. Bolts on the anti-roll bar mounting brackets are accessible.
   There are bushings under them
3. These brackets are easily unscrewed with a ratchet socket.
   Removable with a socket head
4. After the brackets are removed, the stabilizer bar is pushed down, and access to the bushings opens. Fitted instead of worn out

If we compare the device of antiroll bars on domestic cars and foreign cars, you will notice that it is a little more difficult to get to the stabilizer bushings on our cars. If on a Mitsubishi Pajero 4 it is enough to unscrew a few bolts to replace the bushings, and this can be done in any garage, then in the case of the "seven" you will need a scrap and a viewing hole. Nevertheless, with the proper patience, the breakdown can be repaired on your own.

The bushing is an important element of the suspension, as the safety of driving depends on it. If, as a result of diagnostics of the vehicle, it was found that the stabilizer bushings have become unusable, they must be replaced in time. The replacement process is not difficult, so it can be done in the garage, armed with a small number of tools.

What tools are needed?

If the suspension starts to make noise when the speed increases or when you hit an obstacle, we can talk about a malfunction of its elements. In such cases, replacement of the stabilizer bushings is most often required. To do this, you need to prepare the tools:

• knob for heads,
• ratchet,
• a metal brush, which is needed to clean the seat and stabilizer from rust,
• a brush for applying a penetrating lubricant,
• clerical knife for cutting the sleeve.

Dismantling features

Replacing such an important structural element of the machine's undercarriage as the bushing requires a responsible approach. If rubber products were previously installed, it is advisable to replace them with polyurethane products created by the brand "Point of Support". Polyurethane parts make driving easier, even when overcoming difficult road conditions. In addition, they protect the suspension and bodywork and have a long service life.

Dismantling begins with stripping the mounting bolts and applying a penetrating grease to facilitate the process. After that, the fastening nuts are unscrewed, the brackets of the stabilizer bush are dismantled. Rust and rubber residues must be removed from all working surfaces. Grease is used for additional protection. After removing old products, you need to inspect the stabilizer itself and the seat.

Installation of polyurethane parts

New bushings come in a set of two, waterproof lubricant for installation and instructions. To begin with, they are cut in the place where the dismantled parts were cut. For this, a clerical knife is used, which is pre-moistened in water to facilitate work.

A brush is applied to the inside of the bushing. The clamps must be protected from dirt and rust. Otherwise, the product is deformed, a creak will appear inside it. It is imperative to clean the seat, and the stabilizer must be treated with a special lubricant to remove dirt and dust.

Polyurethane products must be cut in the same direction as the worn parts. It remains to put the staples in place, bait and tighten the nuts. The tightening torque should be set in accordance with the instructions. The video will tell you more about replacing the stabilizer bush.

Why the brand "Point of Support"?

We recommend using polyurethane bushings of the "Point of Support" brand as new elements of the car's suspension. Spare parts made of polyurethane prevent premature wear of the undercarriage. In addition, due to their elasticity, resistance to natural factors and unpretentiousness, polyurethane products are ideal for use in the climatic conditions of Russia.

Most rubber bushings lose their properties due to adverse factors. Polyurethane parts will maintain performance even at low temperatures. In this case, vehicle handling will be better, and the frequency of replacement of suspension elements will decrease.

In our online store you can buy stabilizer bushings made of polyurethane brand "Point of Support": there is always a large selection of products of this brand. Experienced managers will help you with the selection of goods in the IXORA store.

The suspension of a vehicle is one of the most important parts that is subjected to a lot of stress and takes all the shock of an uneven road. Thanks to its work, the driver can feel comfortable and not be afraid that while driving, the situation may get out of control. However, due to heavy loads, especially when driving on bad roads, which is not uncommon in the Russian Federation, its parts often fail. The most common problem is stabilizer bushing breakage. Let's take a closer look at why this happens and how the stabilizer bushings are replaced.

What are stabilizer bushings for?

The answer to the question: "Why do we need stabilizer bushings?" very simple. The main purpose of this car part is that it will affect the noise produced by the suspension when the vehicle is moving, reducing it. It is also used to attach the stabilizer to the body of your car.

A feature of this part is its elasticity. Due to the fact that it is made of materials such as polyurethane or rubber, you will not hear any sounds when the wheel height changes. The choice of these materials allows the stabilizer to be fixed to the body, despite the constant change in the distance between them, which occurs during bends.

Note! The shape of the stabilizer has a similar appearance for most vehicles, but it can be modified due to design features.

Why change stabilizer bushings?

If you do not take care of timely replacement of the stabilizer bushings, the following will occur. When entering a turn or when driving on a road with an uneven surface, vibration from the suspension that occurs during these actions will not be damped. The fine-tuning of the stabilizer bar on the car will also deteriorate.

With such malfunctions, you can drive for quite a long time, but this will wear out the resource of your suspension and the entire car much faster. In addition, the failure of the stabilizers leads to a rather unpleasant noise.

How to identify signs of wear on stabilizer bushings?

The occurrence of the following malfunctions during the operation of the vehicle will indicate a malfunction of the stabilizer bushings:

• the first call, when the bushing fails, will be the appearance of noise and knocking in the suspension when the car is moving. The difference from faults with shock absorbers will be that the suspension will knock not only when passing uneven surfaces, but also when entering turns with a small radius. Moreover, the road surface in this case may be in good order and not contain irregularities;
• if you do not pay attention to the knocking in the suspension and continue to operate the car, the situation will deteriorate. Suspension noise will increase and will be generated whenever the suspension position is changed. This will happen due to an increase in cracks and deformation of the stabilizer bushings;
• the next step is to roll the car too much when making tight turns. The body will wobble strongly;
• some vehicles may experience steering wheel play. This is due to their design features;
• further ignoring the situation will lead to the fact that the car's handling will fall. The car may start to drive from side to side when trying to make a maneuver.

You should not bring the car to such a state, because it endangers not only your life, but also the safety of other road users.

Important! Most stabilizer bushings have a working life of 30 to 40 thousand kilometers. Do not exceed this figure and risk your safety.

If you are unable to take the car to a service for diagnostics, you can make sure that the bushings are malfunctioning on your own. To do this, you need:

• find a flyover or pit for inspection. In this case, do not use jacks or lifts. The fact is that the test will be accompanied by a strong rocking of the car and a strong physical impact on the stabilizer. This can cause the vehicle to become unstable and jump off these devices. At best, it can result in injury, at worst, death. Therefore, to ensure maximum safety, it is recommended to use ramps and pits;
• then a visual assessment of the condition of the rubber bands is carried out. If any cracks or tears are found, such a part must be replaced;
• then it is necessary to make a strong physical impact on the stabilizer. Pull it in different directions. Squeaks and noise accompanying this action will mean the need to replace the bushing.

How to change stabilizer bushings?

Repairing rubber bushings is cheap and can be done in service with the help of experienced technicians. This procedure shouldn't hit your budget hard. If you prefer to carry out repairs on your own or you do not have the opportunity to visit the service in the near future, then you need to follow these steps:

• drive the vehicle onto a pit or overpass. You can use a lift or jack, but these are less reliable and safe methods;
• loosen the bolts of the wheels, next to which there are defective parts, and then remove them;
• the next step is to remove the nuts that secure the strut to the stabilizer. At the end of this procedure, disconnect the stand and stabilizer;
• then you should pay attention to the bracket mounting bolts. The rear ones must be loosened, and the front ones must be unscrewed;
• the next step is to remove the dirt and clean the new stabilizer bushings. Carry out this procedure carefully, because the service life of the new bushings will depend on the quality of its implementation;
• grease the bushings from the inside. To do this, you can use silicone spray or regular soap solution;
• insert new bushings in their place of attachment and bring the vehicle to its original state.

Note! Some car models, due to their design features, require removal of the crankcase protection.

The most difficult part is considered to be the process of replacing the front bushings of the vehicle. During its implementation, additional difficulties may arise due to the design features.

What causes the stabilizer bushings to fail?

The main reason due to which the wear of these parts occurs is the strong effect on them during the operation of the machine of the following factors:

• exposure to chemicals. It occurs due to the proximity to the wheels of the car. During movement, various chemical compounds enter the open parts of the bushings. The most dangerous of these are substances used in winter to remove ice on the road. They have a strong effect on the structure of the bushings, causing them to dry out and crack;
• strong mechanical impact. The quality of the roads in each region differs from each other. However, even in the most favorable areas there are many trails, the quality of which leaves much to be desired. Accordingly, the more the car is used on roads with serious damage, the faster the strength of the parts is consumed. This is due to the increase in friction that occurs when the suspension compensates for the unevenness of the roadway;
• the quality of the material from which the bushings are made. Usually even the best rubber grommets have a relatively short lifespan. But it is them that most manufacturers put on their cars. Therefore, when replacing old bushings with new ones, experts recommend using products made on the basis of polyurethane. These products have a significantly greater margin of safety and will last significantly longer.

Which cars have the most common stabilizer problems?

This type of breakdown, sooner or later, occurs on all cars. However, there are vehicles that experience these problems more often than others. These include the following vehicles:

• Lada Vesta;
• Volkswagen Polo;
• Skoda Rapid;
• Renault Megan;
• Mercedes Sprinter.

What tools may you need when replacing stabilizers yourself?

This work will not require high-tech devices from the driver. To do this, you must have the following tools:

• jack;
• extension key;
• spanner key for 10 and 13;
• ruler;
• socket heads 13 and 14. It is desirable to be elongated;
• ratchet key.

This is the minimum required set of tools, without which you definitely cannot carry out repairs. However, you may need an additional kit. This need may arise when removing the fastening nuts. The fact is that during operation they can stick to the part. In this case, you may need a grinder or a hacksaw for metal. You need to be very careful when using these tools as you can damage the stabilizer struts. If this happens, then you will need to change them too.

Output

Despite the sufficient simplicity of eliminating this type of malfunction, perform all actions with utmost care. Especially in cases where a jack is involved in the process.

Any careless movement can end in disaster. If possible, contact a service where they will fix your car quickly and inexpensively, without threatening your health and the condition of the vehicle.

Broken bushings of the front anti-roll bar of Daewoo Lanos, Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos) can hardly be called an emergency breakdown. It is their fault that the wheel will not fall off, the brakes will not disappear and the car will not lose control while driving. But, these "minor" rubber bands can provide 100% of the headache and excess consumption of nerve cells. Since the knock and rumble that appears in the suspension of your car due to the fault of the "killed" stabilizer bushings will not be heard. And it is even more difficult, every time you pass even small irregularities on the road, to convince yourself that the sounds that the suspension of your car makes does not bode well. Why endure, be nervous and turn up the volume of the radio tape recorder, trying to drown out extraneous sounds? It's easier to solve a problem than to put up with it. Moreover, after reading this article, you will know not only the procedure for performing the work, but also about possible unpleasant surprises that you may encounter in the process. And here you can remember the catch phrase - "Forewarned is forearmed." That is, you should not have any problems, and if they do appear, you will cope with them successfully. Hopefully convinced. And you will read the article to the end))).

The tool required to replace the bushings (rubber bands) of the front suspension anti-roll bar on Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos). I'll start with him, since the list of instruments is small and it won't take much time to compile it. What can not be said about spare parts .... But, more on that below. And so, what tool you need in this work: a spanner wrench for 13, socket heads for 13 and 14 (it will be very nice if an extended head for 13 is available), a ratchet wrench, a cardan (will significantly speed up the work), an extension cord and vernier caliper (if not available, you can use a ruler). See photo 1. This is the minimum, in the presence of which, you can replace all bushings of the front stabilizer without tangible difficulties. Yes, about the difficulties ... It happens and not uncommonly that it is impossible to unscrew the stabilizer strut nut (it has rusted hard, the edges of the nut are heavily "licked") and in this case there is only one correct solution - the grinder. In its absence, you can work with a hacksaw. True, in this case, replacing only the bushings (rubber bands) is indispensable, you will have to buy an assembled stabilizer stand (which means "assembled" can be found in the paragraph below - Spare parts). And a few words about the place of work. To replace the stabilizer struts or their bushings, it will be enough to raise the required side with a jack, remove the wheel and calmly proceed to action. True, in this case, when assembling and tightening the front stabilizer struts, you will have to resort to a little trick that will allow you to do everything "according to science." But, we will talk about this in more detail a little later. But with body bushings (pillows) stabilizer, you can't figure it out without a viewing hole or a lift.

Spare parts. What details relate to front suspension anti-roll bar? I list - stabilizer struts 2 pieces (through the bar eyelet connects the stabilizer to the front suspension arm), body bushings (pillows) stabilizer 2 pieces, stabilizer mounting brackets to the body 2 pieces. It should be said right away that stabilizer struts and naturally bushings (rubber bands) of these struts on Daewoo Lanos and Daewoo Nexia cars are the same... What can not be said about body bushings (also called pillows) stabilizer... On Daewoo Nexia, the stabilizer bushings are much smaller than on Lanos. Plus, to this - stabilizer bushings for Daewoo Lanos cars (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos) are of two types - with lamella (new sample) and smooth (old style)... See photos 2, 3 and 4. This is worth remembering. And before going to the car market, it will not be superfluous to look under the car again and determine which stabilizer bushings (pillows) you should buy. In principle, the inner diameter of these stub bushings is the same and they are interchangeable, but only together with mounting brackets))) (photo 5). Yes, the stabilizer brackets are also not eternal, they burst regularly. Approximately the same as in photo 6. And in this case, a metallic clang joins the booming blows "in the chassis". So what else about the bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer wanted to say ... Oh, here! Repair bushings of the stabilizer appeared on sale at the car market Losk. True, so far only in one version - smooth. With severe wear of the stabilizer (yes, this happens, especially if the car ran 300,000 km in taxi mode;)) will come in handy. See photo 7. Well, in addition, photo 8 - quite noticeable wear of the stabilizer bush (pillow))))).

So a few more words on stabilizer struts... Anti-roll bar front suspension of Daewoo Lanos, Daewoo Nexia, Daewoo Sens, Chevrolet Lanos consists of: four rubber bushings (1), four metal support washers (2 ), spacer sleeve (3), bolt (4) and nut (5). Photo 9. All parts of the rack wear out over time. And washers, and a spacer sleeve, and, of course, rubber bushings. I have already spoken about the rusty nut of the stabilizer post, plus I can also add a stuck spacer sleeve to the bolt and the only way to deal with this problem is a grinder. So, taking into account all of the above, it is advisable to buy the entire rack. But, remembering the difficult financial situation in the country and the desire of any person in such a situation to spend as little money as possible. You can try to get by only by replacing the rubber bushings - a set on two sides consists of 8 pieces and, of course, will cost five times cheaper than assembled stands. True, before making a decision, you should at least try to untwist the rack - clean the thread, spill it with oil or VD-40 and then start acting. If it works, the nut turns and the bolt turns in the spacer sleeve, and not with it, then buying only rubber bushings is your option (photo 10). If not, the nut is licked, the bolt stuck, the thrust washers are noticeably pressed, then the right decision is to buy the entire racks (photo 11). Something like this...

And at the choice of the brand of the manufacturer of spare parts... On the racks of the front stub, we can safely recommend - Febi, Ruville, Anam, CRB (factory china, very good quality). On the bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer - CRB, Gumex (excellent rubber quality), FSO.

Smoothly, we turn to the description of replacing the bushings (rubber bands) of the front suspension anti-roll bar on Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos):

1. If you decide to replace only the stabilizer struts or the bushings of the struts, then you do not need a viewing hole or a lift. It is enough to place the car on a level surface, put on the handbrake and speed, loosen the wheel bolts, jack up the required side, unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel. And here it is - the stabilizer bar! As I said, be sure to clean the bolt thread from dirt and process it with VD-40, brake fluid, oil and try to unscrew the nut. To do this, you will need two keys for 13. At least - one socket, and the second ring. Approximately as in photo 12. Or using two socket wrenches with an extended head (photo 13). If you can't unscrew it, but you bought the racks entirely, but you can not suffer for a long time and pick up a grinder or a hacksaw. If there are no racks in stock, then we continue to fight hard.

When the strut or stabilizer struts are untwisted, sawn and removed, you can shake the stub bar up and down. If it hangs freely, knocks, then this is a sure sign of worn out body bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer. And they, if not immediately, then soon will have to be changed.

So, in the event that you decide to limit yourself to replacing the racks or their bushings, then you can start installing new parts. If you plan to replace the stabilizer bushings (pillows), then we are not in a hurry to install the racks and read point number 3.

2. By installing stabilizer struts... There is nothing complicated here, but there is a small nuance. How to make a set of stabilizer legs correctly? I do this according to the instructions given in the repair book - " The rubber bushings are projected to each other, and the thrust washers are projected to the rubber bushings ". The first option in photo 14. Some of these thrust washers are put on the contrary. They say it's better. I won't argue. I don't see any serious violations in the assembly. Just like a weighty reason for discussions on this topic. But, I do it as recommended.

Lubricate the strut bolt before installation. It is necessary to tighten the strut in the "car on wheels" position until the moment when the distance between thrust washers will not be 38 mm (photo 15). It is not difficult to do this on the inspection pit when the car is on wheels. But, if this is not possible, then you will have to press the lever up with the help of the second jack (photo 16). Simulate the "car on wheels" position and then tighten the strut nut, observing the required distance between the washers.

3. With the body bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer, everything is a little more complicated.... We drive the car into the inspection hole, if the engine compartment protection is below, then you will have to remove it. Next, we untwist the stabilizer struts (read point # 1). You can, of course, not unwind the racks. But, then the stabilizer will be clamped and tightened, which will create problems when installing the bushing, bracket and mounting bolts.

We take on the mounting bolts of the stabilizer bush brackets. On the right side, this will be much easier (Photo 17). But on the left, access to these bolts will be difficult. Will come to the rescue ratchet + extension + cardan + head 14... Here's how in photo 18. Without this tool, work will take more time and effort. In turn, on each side, unscrew the bolts, remove the brackets and change the stabilizer bushings. We install the brackets, bait the mounting bolts and tighten them, but do not fully tighten. The final tightening of the bolts of the brackets of the stabilizer cushions should be done only after the final tightening of the stabilizer struts (read item 2).

Look like that's it! Somehow, the bushings (rubber bands) of the front suspension anti-roll bar are being replaced on Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos). I hope I explained everything clearly and did not confuse you))).

When using an article or photos, an active direct hyperlink to the site www.!

The anti-roll bar is an interesting thing. Its main feature is that it is often underestimated by motorists, especially those who have recently been driving or have not seen anything steeper than a nine with leaked shock absorbers. Indeed, it can be removed and thrown away altogether - the car will still drive. True, bad.

What are bushings and why are they needed

The main task of the bushings is to reduce the noise of the suspension while driving and to attach the stabilizer to the car body. They are usually made from two materials: polyurethane and rubber. The parts have high elasticity and strength, which is why there are no squeaks and knocks when the height of any of the wheels changes. In addition, it is impossible to rigidly attach the stabilizer to the body, since the distance from the attachment point to the edge of the stabilizer changes during bending.

Often, various sounds arising from movement and sharp turns - squeaks, knocks, and so on, can indicate a malfunction of the bushings. This phenomenon is associated with the loss of elasticity of the sleeve, as a result of which it becomes very rigid. Also, dust or sand can accumulate under this part.

Stabilizer design features

In the field of mechanical engineering, the stabilizer appeared along with the first cars, the maximum speed of which exceeded the 20 km / h mark. Due to the large rolls that occur when turning, it became necessary to install this component. The main purpose of the stabilizer is to protect the vehicle from rollover, since during a turn the load on the outer wheels increases, and on the inner ones, on the contrary, decreases. This causes the machine to rock. The stabilizer makes it more stable on the road, preventing it from rolling over.

On a note! All car suspensions are equipped with a stabilizer, not only at the front, but also at the rear. A stabilizer is not needed only if a torsion bar is installed at the rear of the car: the stabilizer functions will be assigned to the suspension itself.

The design of the stabilizer on many cars is a U-shaped metal bar made of spring steel. To attach the device to the body, special clamps and bushings are used to allow the stabilizer to rotate. For greater stability of the car and increase the elasticity of the stabilizer, bushings are used - all the shocks from various suspension elements fall on them.

Stabilizer bushings. Malfunction symptoms. Effects.

For the best damping of vibrations and forces acting on the car body, the vast majority of suspension elements are connected by means of elastic elements. The same goes for the stabilizer. For its fastening, special bushings (rubber bands, pillows) made of durable rubber or polyurethane are used. Over time, as the vehicle is used, these bushings can begin to collapse and noticeably lose their elasticity. This results in unsatisfactory operation of the stabilizer \u003d. More serious defects may begin to appear, which will only grow faster over time.

The first symptom, foreshadowing the replacement of the bushings, will be a slight knocking of the suspension. A similar knock can be observed with "tired" shock absorbers. Only in the case of bushings, it will be heard not only on pits and bumps, but also when entering relatively sharp turns. At the same time, the car often feels too wobbly and sluggish. The resulting knock will be the result of a backlash in the connecting nodes of the stabilizer levers due to worn bushings.

If measures are not taken in time, the knocking will only intensify in the future and will begin to accompany the work of the suspension everywhere due to the increasing deformation and destruction of the bushings. Body roll and excessive play in the steering wheel may occur. It is possible to "yaw" the car not only in corners, but also in cases of braking or lane change. Most automakers advise changing the stabilizer bushings every 30-40 thousand mileage. However, in our conditions, it is still better to focus on the wear of the bushings. Therefore, a sudden knock and slight bounce in corners will be clear signs of an impending replacement of components.

As a popular method of checking the bushings for serviceability, it is proposed to move in the 2nd gear of the "speed bump" obliquely. There was a dull thud in the area of \u200b\u200bthe pedals - most likely the Khan's bushings. You can also just crawl under the car to inspect everything yourself. A worn-out bushing will "please" with the presence of cracks and abrasions characteristic of worn out and cracked rubber. These cracks are sometimes also called "daisies" by the car maker.

Also, the rubber of the bushings can simply harden and lose the necessary elasticity. If the stabilizer bushings do not work well, just swing your hand hard up and down and to the sides of the stabilizer itself. If you feel a backlash, squeaks and knocks in the lower part of the suspension, then the bushings have become unusable.

But for the best result, it is better, of course, to drive onto an overpass, inspection pit or use a lift. Of the tools, you only need a crowbar or a mounting paddle, which you just need to rest on the bottom of the car and slightly "shake" the stabilizer, in the places of its docking with the body. If you feel a noticeable backlash or a loss of elasticity, then it's time to think about replacing the bushings.

List of required tools

You definitely need to have the following set of tools: new bushings; to unscrew the subframe bolt, an open-end wrench of size 24 is required; keys 17 and 15; for unscrewing screws from the motor protection - a key for 10; for fastening bolts - a key 13; clamps made of metal material for 20 - for clamping the stabilizers, since the old ones must be replaced; anti-scale and rust agent - WD 40; graphite grease; jack.

Benefits of timely replacement

Every driver will be able to cope with the replacement of bushings on his car, because this process is not a super-complicated repair. Everything can be done with your own hands, but if you do not have time or desire, then it is advisable to seek help from specialists. This will help protect the anti-roll bar from premature wear.

Driving on poor-quality road surfaces will recede into the background if you have previously installed brand new bushings. And in general, the installed new bushings are the absence of difficulties and problems when driving, as well as comfort and safety.

Replacing the stabilizer bushing "Kia"

Replacing the Kia stabilizer bushings involves the following algorithm: Raise the front of the vehicle and remove the wheels. Find the steering shaft and make a mark (for easy further installation in the original place), remove the mounting bolt. Raise the transmission with a jack, unscrew the rear cushion and subframe. To facilitate access to the rear cushions, four bolts are removed to secure the subframe. Raise the front section of the subframe with a jack. Remove the mount and treat with an oil solution to prevent the development of corrosion processes on the metal. Screw them into place only four to five turns.

This is done crosswise to provide additional security and uniform contraction of the plane. Loosen the jack until you can reach the bushing bolts. The bushing on the right side can be easily unscrewed through the engine compartment, and on the left side - from below. Insert the staples. This procedure is carried out in a neat way so as not to damage the collar on the steering boot. The process is repeated in reverse order. The peculiarities of the Kia Sid car are that the steering shaft has a telescopic view, and therefore it is installed at the last moment.

There are the following types of bushings:

1. Spherical (or "iron") bushing. By design, it resembles a ball joint;

2. Rubber bushing.

Today, more and more popularity is gained stabilizer bushings of polyurethane type. They are quite easy to replace, which is an important plus, and they also have good performance characteristics. Experienced drivers can safely say that these are the details that are most convenient.

If a there is a malfunction in the area of \u200b\u200bthe stabilizer bush, it must be replaced without fail. Otherwise, it can have a very bad effect on the running and handling of the vehicle. When the bushing is deformed or cracked, some noise may appear in the area of \u200b\u200bthe car suspension (mainly when the car runs into an obstacle or increases speed). In principle, problems in the suspension area are determined precisely from such noises.

For, to make sure that it is necessary to replace the bushings,periodically, it is necessary to carry out a diagnosis of the suspension, after which a malfunction will be identified or prevented.

In the event that it is revealed that it is necessary to replace the stabilizer bush, you can do it yourself. Moreover, there is nothing complicated in this and the procedure is very simple. First, the bolts are unscrewed, with which the clamp is attached. The stabilizer is then pulled to the side and the old parts are removed. Well, and for the final action, a new part is very carefully installed.

It is according to this scheme replacement of both the front stabilizer and the rear... After replacing parts, driving a car will be much more pleasant and comfortable, and various road obstacles will be overcome without any difficulty. Among other things, the new elements will maximize the performance of the racks.