The suspension of a vehicle is one of the most important parts that is subjected to a lot of stress and takes all the shock of uneven roads. Thanks to its work, the driver can feel comfortable and not be afraid that while driving, the situation may get out of control. However, due to heavy loads, especially when driving on bad roads, which is not uncommon in the Russian Federation, its parts often fail. The most common problem is stabilizer bushing breakage. Let's take a closer look at why this happens and how the stabilizer bushings are replaced.

What are stabilizer bushings for?

The answer to the question: "Why do we need stabilizer bushings?" very simple. The main purpose of this car part is that it will affect the noise produced by the suspension when the vehicle is moving, reducing it. It is also used to attach the stabilizer to the body of your car.

A feature of this part is its elasticity. Due to the fact that it is made of materials such as polyurethane or rubber, you will not hear any sounds when the wheel height changes. The choice of these materials allows the stabilizer to be fixed to the body, despite the constant change in the distance between them, which occurs during bends.

Note! The shape of the stabilizer has a similar appearance for most vehicles, but it can be modified due to design features.

Why change stabilizer bushings?

If you do not take care of timely replacement of the stabilizer bushings, the following will occur. When entering a turn or when driving on a road with an uneven surface, the vibration of the suspension that occurs during these actions will not be damped. The fine-tuning of the stabilizer bar on the car will also deteriorate.

With such malfunctions, you can drive for quite a long time, but this will wear out the resource of your suspension and the entire car much faster. In addition, the failure of the stabilizers leads to a rather unpleasant noise.

How to identify signs of wear on stabilizer bushings?

The occurrence of the following malfunctions during the operation of the vehicle will indicate a malfunction of the stabilizer bushings:

• the first call, when the bushing fails, will be the appearance of noise and knocking in the suspension when the car is moving. The difference from faults with shock absorbers will be that the suspension will knock not only when passing uneven surfaces, but also when entering turns with a small radius. Moreover, the road surface in this case may be in good order and not contain irregularities;
• if you do not pay attention to the knocking in the suspension and continue to operate the car, the situation will deteriorate. Suspension noise will increase and will be generated whenever the suspension position is changed. This will happen due to an increase in cracks and deformation of the stabilizer bushings;
• the next step is to roll the car too much when making tight turns. The body will sway strongly;
• some vehicles may experience steering wheel play. This is due to their design features;
• further ignoring the situation will lead to the fact that the car's handling will fall. The car may start to drive from side to side when trying to make a maneuver.

You should not bring the car to such a state, because it endangers not only your life, but also the safety of other road users.

Important! Most stabilizer bushings have a working life of 30 to 40 thousand kilometers. Do not exceed this figure and risk your safety.

If you are unable to take the car to a service for diagnostics, you can make sure that the bushings are malfunctioning on your own. To do this, you need:

• find a flyover or pit for inspection. In this case, do not use jacks or lifts. The fact is that the test will be accompanied by a strong rocking of the car and a strong physical impact on the stabilizer. This can cause the vehicle to become unstable and jump off these devices. At best, it can result in injury, at worst, death. Therefore, to ensure maximum safety, it is recommended to use ramps and pits;
• then a visual assessment of the condition of the rubber bands is carried out. If any cracks or tears are found, such a part must be replaced;
• then it is necessary to make a strong physical impact on the stabilizer. Pull it in different directions. Squeaks and noise accompanying this action will mean the need to replace the bushing.

How to change stabilizer bushings?

Repairing rubber bushings is cheap and can be done in service with the help of experienced technicians. This procedure shouldn't hit your budget hard. If you prefer to carry out repairs on your own or you do not have the opportunity to visit the service in the near future, then you need to follow these steps:

• drive the vehicle onto a pit or overpass. You can use a lift or jack, but these are less reliable and safe methods;
• loosen the bolts of the wheels, next to which there are defective parts, and then remove them;
• the next step is to remove the nuts that secure the strut to the stabilizer. At the end of this procedure, disconnect the stand and stabilizer;
• then you should pay attention to the bracket mounting bolts. The rear ones must be loosened, and the front ones must be unscrewed;
• the next step is to remove the dirt and clean the new stabilizer bushings. Carry out this procedure carefully, because the service life of the new bushings will depend on the quality of its implementation;
• grease the bushings from the inside. To do this, you can use silicone spray or regular soap solution;
• insert new bushings in their place of attachment and bring the vehicle to its original state.

Note! Some car models, due to their design features, require removal of the crankcase protection.

The most difficult part is considered the process of replacing the front bushings of the vehicle. During its implementation, additional difficulties may arise due to the design features.

What causes the stabilizer bushings to fail?

The main reason due to which the wear of these parts occurs is the strong effect on them during the operation of the machine of the following factors:

• exposure to chemicals. It occurs due to the proximity to the wheels of the car. During movement, various chemical compounds enter the open parts of the bushings. The most dangerous of these are substances used in winter to remove ice on the road. They have a strong effect on the structure of the bushings, causing them to dry out and crack;
• strong mechanical impact. The quality of the roads in each region differs from each other. However, even in the most favorable areas there are many trails, the quality of which leaves much to be desired. Accordingly, the more the car is used on roads with serious damage, the faster the strength of the parts is consumed. This is due to the increase in friction that occurs when the suspension compensates for the unevenness of the roadway;
• the quality of the material from which the bushings are made. Usually even the best rubber grommets have a relatively short lifespan. But it is them that most manufacturers put on their cars. Therefore, when replacing old bushings with new ones, experts recommend using products made on the basis of polyurethane. These products have a significantly greater margin of safety and will last significantly longer.

Which cars have the most common stabilizer problems?

This type of breakdown, sooner or later, occurs on all cars. However, there are vehicles that experience these problems more often than others. These include the following vehicles:

• Lada Vesta;
• Volkswagen Polo;
• Skoda Rapid;
• Renault Megan;
• Mercedes Sprinter.

What tools may you need when replacing stabilizers yourself?

This work will not require high-tech devices from the driver. To do this, you must have the following tools:

• jack;
• extension key;
• spanner key for 10 and 13;
• ruler;
• socket heads 13 and 14. It is desirable to be elongated;
• ratchet key.

This is the minimum required set of tools, without which you definitely cannot carry out repairs. However, you may need an additional kit. This need may arise when removing the fastening nuts. The fact is that during operation they can stick to the part. In this case, you may need a grinder or a hacksaw for metal. You need to be very careful when using these tools as you can damage the stabilizer struts. If this happens, then you will need to change them too.

Output

Despite the sufficient simplicity of eliminating this type of malfunction, perform all actions with utmost care. Especially in cases where a jack is involved in the process.

Any careless movement can end in disaster. If possible, contact a service where they will fix your car quickly and inexpensively, without threatening your health and the condition of the vehicle.

If the lateral stabilizer bushings are out of order in the suspension, this can hardly be called a critical breakdown that requires immediate repair. Because of this breakdown, the car will not lose control and the wheels will not fall off. But in order to drive a car with broken bushings, the driver will need very strong nerves. Because the knocking and grinding noise from worn bushings will be heard in any cab. In this article, we will tell the reader how to do it yourself with your own hands to replace the roll bar bushings in passenger cars, both domestic and foreign.

Anti-roll Bar Bush Functions

In most modern cars, an anti-roll bar is a required suspension element. When the car enters a corner, its roll increases and it can tip over due to centrifugal force. When the car exits a bend, its body begins to sway, making it difficult to align the trajectory. As a result, anti-roll bars appeared in the suspensions of cars to prevent unwanted swaying. The stabilizer is attached to the suspension with steel brackets, under which there are elastic bushings made of polyurethane (or extra dense rubber). Their purpose is to dampen suspension vibration and guide the stabilizer bar when entering a corner and when driving on rough roads.

Signs of wear

• Severe squeaking when driving on uneven roads. When entering a corner at high speed, this squeak turns into a grinding sound.
• Stabilizer rod play. It manifests itself in the form of a dull blow, which is heard when the front wheels of the car simultaneously fall into a deep pothole in the road.

Breakdown reasons

• Physical deterioration. Most cars (especially domestic ones) are initially equipped with rubber cross bushings, the service life of which is short. Already after 2-3 years, they fully develop their resource, become covered with cracks and fall apart (for this reason, prudent car owners change rubber bushings to polyurethane ones immediately after purchase).
• Chemical attack. Because the bushes are located close to the wheels, they are regularly exposed to anti-icing chemicals, which can significantly reduce the life of the rubber bushes.
• Mechanical impact. If the car is constantly used on roads, the quality of which leaves much to be desired, even reliable polyurethane bushings will not last long (since in such conditions they are subject to increased frictional force and are constantly subjected to strong impacts).

Which bushings to choose

When choosing new stabilizer bushings, preference should be given to polyurethane products. Motorists often opt for bushings from SASIC, 555 and TRW.

Tools and supplies

1. A set of new anti-roll bar bushings.
2. Open-end wrench set.
3. Flat screwdriver (medium size).
4. Set of socket heads with a knob.
5. 2 jacks.
6. Wheel chocks.

The sequence of replacement for a VAZ 2107

1. The car is installed on the inspection pit, after which the crankcase protection (if installed) is removed using open-ended keys. Then chocks are placed under the rear wheels of the car, and the front wheels are jacked up.
2. Now, with a 12 open-end wrench, the nuts on the brackets are unscrewed, where they are attached to the lower suspension arm. This is done on both sides of the stabilizer bar. There are engraving washers under the nuts. They are removed manually.
   Nuts are shown by arrows
3. The staples can now be removed. After removing them, the bushings can be removed. To remove them, the stabilizer bar is bent with a crowbar. The bar is held in place with a crowbar and the sleeve is removed manually. The sleeve on the other side can be removed in the same way.
   For this, scrap is used
4. In addition to the two outer bushings, the VAZ 2107 has a pair of central stabilizer bushings. If you need to replace them too, you will have to completely remove the stabilizer bar, which is attached to two brackets. The nuts on the brackets are unscrewed with an open-end wrench 14.
5. After removing the rod, the bracket is clamped in a vice, and the rod is carefully removed from the bushing, then the central bushing itself is removed.
   The bushing is inside the bracket, clamped in a vice
6. Worn bushings are replaced with new ones, after which the stabilizer bar and crankcase protection are installed in their original places.

Video on work

Important points

• Care should be taken when unscrewing the nuts on the brackets: the studs on which the brackets are attached become fragile over time and easily break with an open-end wrench.
• It should be remembered: the brackets holding the outer sleeves are different, although it is far from always possible to see this with the naked eye. The distance between the holes for the studs in the left and right brackets differs by 3 mm. Therefore, before removing it, it makes sense to mark the staples with a marker or chalk so as not to confuse them when reassembling.
• Removing the stabilizer bar from the bracket can be tricky, especially if it is badly rusted. To facilitate the task, the boom and bracket should be liberally lubricated with WD-40 fluid. If you don't have liquid on hand, a liquid dish detergent or regular soapy water will do.

The sequence of replacing bushings on Mitsubishi Pajero 4

1. Using a 12 open-end wrench, 4 bolts are unscrewed, which hold the car's crankcase protection.
   For this, 4 bolts are unscrewed
2. Bolts on the anti-roll bar mounting brackets are accessible.
   There are bushings under them
3. These brackets are easily unscrewed with a ratchet socket.
   Removable with a socket head
4. After the brackets are removed, the stabilizer bar is pushed down, and access to the bushings opens. Fitted instead of worn out

If we compare the device of antiroll bars on domestic cars and foreign cars, you will notice that it is a little more difficult to get to the stabilizer bushings on our cars. If on a Mitsubishi Pajero 4 it is enough to unscrew a few bolts to replace the bushings, and this can be done in any garage, then in the case of the "seven" you will need a scrap and a viewing hole. Nevertheless, with the proper patience, the breakdown can be repaired on your own.

The main task of the suspension is to provide an elastic connection between the body and the wheels. Thus, the suspension softens jolts and jumps that occur when the vehicle is moving on uneven roads or the absence of it. The smooth running of the car is directly dependent on the suspension.

The suspension serves as a kind of shock absorber, absorbing the energy that occurs when driving over irregularities, or falling into pits and potholes. However, it does not guarantee complete softness of movement and wears out a lot with frequent movement over bumps.

Pendants are divided into the following types:

• McPherson;
• double wishbone;
• multi-link;
• adaptive;
• "De Dion";
• back dependent;
• rear semi-dependent;
• pickups and SUVs;
• trucks.

McPherson suspension

The McPherson suspension is one of the oldest. It was developed by the talented engineer Earl MacPherson in 1960. Consists of anti-roll bar, arm and block. Changing the camber angle is a serious disadvantage of the suspension, but it is very popular due to its availability and reliability.

Double wishbone suspension

The double wishbone suspension is one of the most advanced designs. This is a suspension with two arms of different lengths (upper short and lower long). This design allows the vehicle to remain stable on the road and ensures the durability of the tires. Each wheel takes its own obstacle independently and does not transfer the load to the other wheels.

The multi-link suspension was recently developed and represents an even more advanced design. It is a set of many levers, silent blocks and hinges. All of these components are designed to absorb shocks and strong shocks while riding. The noise level from the wheels in the passenger compartment is also reduced. The suspension has separate lateral and longitudinal adjustments. The wheels are independent from each other. The design is ideal for all-wheel drive vehicles.

The cost of a multi-link suspension remained quite high for some time, but now even golf-class drivers can afford it.

Adaptive suspension

The adaptive suspension is very interesting in terms of design. For a long time it was primitive and weighed a lot, but now it has been greatly modernized. Thanks to this, it allows maximum body roll and wave swing at high speed and allows it to automatically adapt to any type of road surface. The adaptive suspension includes: adjustable anti-roll bars, active shock absorbers, a chassis control unit and electronic sensors that detect road irregularities and other parameters.

"De Dion"

"De Dion" is named after its French creator. The main function of such a suspension is to reduce the load on the rear axle of the vehicle by separating the final drive housing. In this case, the crankcase rests on the body. This design allows you to make the suspension dependent or independent. But there are also disadvantages. When starting off abruptly, the body of the vehicle can press hard on the rear axle.

Rear dependent suspension

The rear dependent suspension is a real classic version, as it was used on many old VAZ cars. The suspension is based on cylindrical helical springs, which are elastic elements. The rear axle beam "hangs" on springs and is fixed to the body by means of four trailing arms. The reactive transverse rod acts as a roll absorber and has a positive effect on handling. But do not expect comfort and smoothness from this suspension, since the rear axle weighs a lot.

Semi-independent rear suspension is most commonly used in all-wheel drive vehicles. Its main elements are two trailing arms attached in the center to the cross member. This suspension weighs a little and does not require any special maintenance or major repairs. But such a suspension cannot be installed on rear-wheel drive cars.

Other types of pendants

The suspension of trucks is most often dependent with transverse or longitudinal springs and hydraulic shock absorbers. This design makes it easier to manufacture and repair trucks.

Anti-roll bar: design and purpose

The anti-roll bar is an indispensable suspension component. It reduces body roll when cornering, increases wheel traction and evenly distributes the load on the frame. The shape resembles a metal bar with curved tips. It is attached on each side to the wheels of one of the axles, most often in the front (front stabilizer). Also, this structural element is attached to the car body.

Suspension diagnostics in the service center

The cost of such diagnostics varies from five hundred to one thousand rubles. Diagnostics allows you to identify suspension defects. Since this part of the car is most susceptible to wear and tear, diagnostics should be carried out promptly and in a timely manner.

You can determine that it is time to check the suspension for serviceability by an uncharacteristic knock and an increase in the braking distance of the car. Vehicle stability on the road also decreases over time. Diagnostics in service centers is carried out using high-precision equipment (backlash meter, side care tester) and provides maximum information content. After diagnostics, you will receive a special diagnostic card with the results of the work.

Special bushings are used to install the stabilizer. What is a bushing? These are elastic elements that provide the car with a smooth ride. These bushings also ensure that there is no noise or vibration from the stabilizer.

The sleeve is molded from rubber or polyurethane. The shape is identical for most models. Additionally equipped with grooves that protect against mechanical stress.

Signs of wear on stabilizer bushings

There are several signs:

• the formation of a play in the steering wheel during turns;
• shaking of the steering wheel;
• body roll with various knocks and clicks;
• vibration and extraneous noise;
• "Wobble" of the car to the side when driving straight;
• instability on the road.

Causes of malfunctioning bushings

Bushings most often fail due to poor road surface, the use of various reagents. Reagents used during icy conditions are no exception. Aggressive driving with hard braking and starting quickly leads to wear on most vehicle structures, including the stabilizer bushings.

Low temperatures can be a serious cause of wear. The rubber of poor quality bushings will harden strongly and lose the necessary elasticity.

Finally, the biggest factor in wear is time. The stabilizer bush, like most elements of the car's structure, is a spare part with an expiration date. Any bushing sooner or later is subject to wear and requires replacement.

Before replacing the stabilizer bushings, carefully inspect the suspension. The suspension must be cleaned from dirt. You can visually determine the wear on the bushing: it will have patterned cracks and various abrasions. The rubber of worn out bushings loses its elasticity. A special inspection hole or lift will help you to inspect the bushings. If there are no such amenities, use the "folk" method. Put your hands on the top of the car roof and rock it. Knocks and squeaks at the bottom of the case will be a signal to replace the bushings.

Some car owners are trying to prolong the life of the bushings by using special lubricants. This method is not recommended, as the lubrication "collects" various road debris and dust while driving. But if you still decide to use a lubricant, then purchase a quality product that does not destroy rubber. "Litol-24" and "MOLYKOTE CU-7439" will suit you. These are versatile products. They can even be used to lubricate brake calipers. Bushing grease is often available in a repair kit. In some cases, you may need a crowbar.

You will need one or more jacks to replace the bushings. It is advisable to carry out the replacement at the inspection pit, where special supports may also be needed. From the tools you will need wrenches, a screwdriver and a repair kit.

Step-by-step instructions for self-replacement

The process of replacing the front and transverse stabilizer bushings is slightly different.

To replace the front stabilizer bushings, you need to perform a number of steps described below:

1. Place the vehicle stationary above a pit or on a lift.
2. Loosen the front wheel bolts using the tools.
3. Remove the wheels.
4. Unscrew the nuts securing the struts to the stabilizer.
5. Disconnect the struts and stabilizer.
6. Loosen the rear bolts securing the bracket that frames the hub, and then remove the front bolts.
7. Thoroughly remove dirt from the places for installing new bushings.
8. Lubricate the inside of the bushings with silicone spray or soapy water. The special grease available in the repair kits may also be suitable for this.
9. Install the stabilizer bushings and reassemble all parts.

To replace the anti-roll bar bushings, you also need to position the vehicle stationary over a pit or on a lift. After that, take a series of actions described below:

1. Place chocks under the rear wheels of the vehicle and lift the front wheels slightly.
2. Using a special open-end wrench, unscrew the nuts on the brackets in the places where they are attached to the lower arm of the car's suspension. Do this on both sides of the stabilizer bar. Washers-grovers under the nuts are removed manually.
3. Remove the staples and remove the worn bushings. To do this, bend the stabilizer bar with a crowbar and hold it with the same crowbar when removing the bushing.
4. If there are central bushings, you will have to remove the stabilizer bar, which is attached to the two brackets. You can unscrew the nuts on them with an open-end wrench.
5. After removing the bar, clamp the bracket in a vice. Then you can remove the rod and then the bushing.
6. Replace the bushing by cleaning the installation sites from dirt and lubricating.
7. Then, as usual, reverse installation is carried out.

You can determine whether it is necessary to replace the stabilizer bushings by knocking or squeaking that appears in the suspension when braking and driving over bumps. And given that sometimes there are more holes on our roads than asphalt pavement, the replacement process must be carried out regularly. The bushings themselves are not very expensive, their timely replacement will save them from rapid wear and tear, and the car owner from the extra cash associated with replacing them.

The replacement process is quite simple and you can easily do it yourself, using the proposed instructions.

The stabilizer bushings are among the parts that are subject to the highest dynamic loads. They require regular replacement, depending on the maintenance regulations adopted by various car manufacturers and models. The maximum mileage before replacing the rear and front hubs is typically 15,000 to 30,000 km. Taking into account the condition of our roads, it is recommended to replace them after wear.

Untimely replacement can lead to the formation of a roll in the stabilizer bar of the car, and this, in turn, increases the risk of the car overturning at speed. The complete set is subject to mandatory replacement, regardless of the difference in external signs of wear. The cost of such a repair service in a service station is often overstated, given the ease of replacement for most car models, so it is advisable to replace the front and rear bushings with your own hands.

Diagnostics

The knock of the stabilizers is a guaranteed sign that the bushings need to be replaced immediately. In addition to it, squeaks may appear, especially during a cold snap, when the rubber loses its elasticity.

It may be necessary to remove the crankcase guard to determine if replacement is necessary. To check the source of vibration, place your hands on the stabilizer post and directly on the mounting bracket. The partner should press hard on the hood of the car several times. If vibrations are felt on the brackets, which are transmitted to the rack, a new kit must be installed, even if no backlash was noticed when inspecting the seats on the stabilizer.

If the hole inside the sleeve has taken the shape of an ellipse, cracks are visible on the surface, and the material has hardened, immediate replacement is necessary. Continued use of the vehicle will significantly reduce the service life of the stabilizer struts.

Tool

To replace the front or rear bushings with your own hands, you will need:

• small ratchet with extension and cap head;
• open-end wrench, it should be thin and small;
• large ratchet, cardan adapter and union head;
• you may need an L-shaped extension cord.

Sequence of work

1. The car is securely fixed in the jacked state.
2. Wheels are unscrewed and removed. There is an engine guard in the right wheel arch. Its fasteners are unscrewed and the shield is removed.
3. Most of the fasteners under the bottom are pretty acidic, so to speed up the process of replacing the stabilizer bushings, they must be thoroughly treated with WD 40, which removes corrosion.
4. Using the open-end wrench, we fix the finger on the left stand. It is a little hidden from direct access, so the grooves must be found almost by touch.

1. We throw a box wrench, preferably a ratchet, onto the nut that secures the shock absorber. We unscrew both fasteners.
2. Having freed the stabilizer struts from the mountings, disconnect them from the shock absorber strut.
3. Install a jack under the left rear part of the subframe. With its help, the subframe is fixed so that when removing the fasteners, it does not suddenly jump off the studs. A metal plate of considerable size must be placed under the jack support head so as not to deform the subframe.

1. Smoothly lower the jack a few centimeters from the body. Thanks to this, the subframe also lowers slightly, opening access to the bushings.

1. A pipe is inserted into the resulting gap, and the subframe is additionally pushed down. A stopper is inserted into the resulting gap. A head for 27 is suitable, when installing it between the body and the subframe washer, it is better to use pliers. This will save your hand from injury if the tube slips off the subframe washer.
2. We water the bracket mountings generously with WD-40. Unscrew the bolts gradually, not pressing too much.

1. Remove the released bracket from the bushing, and then remove the bushing itself.

1. Install the bushing from a new kit. The cut on the parts must be directed strictly backward. We position the new part exactly in the place of the old one.
2. We install a clamp over the sleeve. We lightly bait the fasteners with our fingers, and then tighten with a wrench, alternately and evenly tightening all the bolts.
3. The stopper, which was used as the key head, is removed. The subframe is lifted by hand and screwed onto the body.
4. All these steps are performed in the same way with respect to the second clamp.
5. After the bushings are installed, both legs are screwed into place.

IMPORTANT! Before installation, all threaded parts of the fasteners are coated with graphite grease to avoid sticking.

When performing the specified work, you should be careful and pay attention to safety. In general, such work can be done by hand.

Naturally, the design of different car brands is significantly different, so the replacement instructions are rather general recommendations. For more detailed information, a series of videos on carrying out this type of repair for various car brands is presented.

Video on replacing stabilizer bushings Ford Explorer:

Video Chevrolet Aveo 3 - the split bushings used in this model make the repair process quick and easy.

Nissan X-Trail video:

Video explaining workflows for Renault Logan:

The car's suspension is the first to meet all the irregularities in the path of the car, taking all the blows from pits, bumps and other "pleasant" surprises with which our roads dazzle. Each suspension unit has its own specific purpose, but in the aggregate, they are all designed to absorb the shock loads that arise when the machine is moving, as well as to ensure the proper handling and stability of the vehicle when cornering or making sharp maneuvers. Parts such as the anti-roll bar bush often require replacement. The work can be done by hand.

A little about the car suspension

It is not difficult to guess that the level of safety and comfort on the road for both the driver and passengers is almost directly dependent on the serviceability of the suspension, as well as how well it copes with its tasks.

Each component of a car's suspension is aimed at a specific function. The levers together with the trunnions hold the wheel in the required plane, parallel allowing it to rotate freely in two different planes (the moment of entering the turn).

Shock absorbers dampen vibrations that occur during movement, thereby ensuring the smooth running of the vehicle. At the same time, the springs are designed to ensure the rigidity of the suspension and the return of its components to their original state.

The main units and components of the front suspension of the car

But there is another important detail in the suspension, which no modern car can do without. And this detail is a stabilizer. It can be easily seen if the car is driven onto a lift or placed on an inspection pit. On the front axle, among the springs, shock absorbers and other levers, a curved steel bar will be easily noticeable, which is fixed with one of its arms to the subframe, and the other to the wheel hub. The stabilizer mounts are not rigid and allow it to move along the axis in one plane.

In the design of the suspension, the stabilizer appeared at the dawn of the automotive industry, when speeds began to reach 20 km / h and higher. The introduction of this element into the suspension design made it possible to maintain the stability of the vehicle during cornering and maneuvering.

Thus, the main task of the stabilizer during movement is to distribute the weight of the car body over all its wheels in the event of a roll. In particular, this applies to cases of sufficiently sharp turns or a sudden change in trajectory.

The principle of operation of the anti-roll bar

On a fairly common type of McFerson suspension today, the stabilizer is a torsion bar that works in torsion. This element is rigidly connected to the car body or subframe. The forces generated in the suspension are transmitted to the stabilizer through additional levers, which are communicated with the suspension due to the hinges. This simple scheme allows you to prevent even a serious roll of the vehicle and even more so its rollover.

The rear axle is most often equipped with this type of stabilizer in the case of a four-wheel drive vehicle. If we talk about cars with rear-wheel drive and a solid beam on the rear axle, then the role of the stabilizer is given to the reaction rod, also known as the Panhard rod.

Also, a number of Japanese off-road vehicles at one time, in addition to the Panhard thrust, were additionally equipped with another stabilizer, which in the form of a curved thrust went along the rear axle beam and communicated with the power components of the body through small levers.

Stabilizer bushings. Malfunction symptoms. Effects.

For the best damping of vibrations and forces acting on the car body, the vast majority of suspension elements are connected by means of elastic elements. The same goes for the stabilizer. For its fastening, special bushings (rubber bands, pillows) made of durable rubber or polyurethane are used. Over time, as the vehicle is used, these bushings can begin to collapse and noticeably lose their elasticity. This results in unsatisfactory operation of the stabilizer \u003d. More serious defects may begin to appear, which will only grow faster over time.

Diagram of the stabilizer device and its fastening elements

The first symptom, foreshadowing the replacement of the bushings, will be a slight knocking of the suspension. A similar knock can be observed with "tired" shock absorbers. Only in the case of bushings, it will be heard not only on pits and bumps, but also when entering relatively sharp turns. At the same time, the car often feels too wobbly and sluggish. The resulting knock will be the result of a backlash in the connecting nodes of the stabilizer levers due to worn bushings.

If measures are not taken in time, the knocking will only intensify in the future and will begin to accompany the work of the suspension everywhere due to the increasing deformation and destruction of the bushings. Body roll and excessive play in the steering wheel may occur. It is possible to "yaw" the car not only in corners, but also in cases of braking or lane change. Most automakers advise changing the stabilizer bushings every 30-40 thousand mileage. However, in our conditions, it is still better to focus on the wear of the bushings. Therefore, a sudden knock and slight bounce in corners will be clear signs of an impending replacement of components.

As a popular method of checking the bushings for serviceability, it is proposed to move in the 2nd gear of the "speed bump" obliquely. There was a dull thud in the area of \u200b\u200bthe pedals - most likely the Khan's bushings. You can also just crawl under the car to inspect everything yourself. A worn-out bushing will "please" with the presence of cracks and abrasions characteristic of worn out and cracked rubber. These cracks are sometimes also called "daisies" by the car maker.

Stabilizer bush and bracket for fixing it

Also, the rubber of the bushings can simply harden and lose the necessary elasticity. If the stabilizer bushings do not work well, just swing your hand hard up and down and to the sides of the stabilizer itself. If you feel a backlash, squeaks and knocks in the lower part of the suspension, then the bushings have become unusable.

But for the best result, it is better, of course, to drive onto an overpass, inspection pit or use a lift. Of the tools, you only need a crowbar or a mounting paddle, which you just need to rest on the bottom of the car and slightly "shake" the stabilizer, in the places of its docking with the body. If you feel a noticeable backlash or a loss of elasticity, then it's time to think about replacing the bushings.

Stabilizer bushing replacement process

Replacing the bushings will not take much time. You just need the right tools, plus a well-lit and comfortable working area. It is unlikely that the average driver will have access to a professional lift during work, so it is better to get a pair of jacks and a special rigid support in advance.

The tool you may need

1. Open-end wrench and possibly a ring wrench.
2. Ratchet with extension.
3. Vorotok.
4. Cap head.

Tools Required to Replace Bushings

Work order

• The machine is hung out on jacks and securely fixed.
• Wheels are removed. The crankcase protection and wheel arch liners are also dismantled.

View of the stabilizer pad before starting work

• The next step is to raise the lower lever with a jack or place an emphasis under it. If the bushings on the side of both wheels are changed (which is highly recommended), then it is better to put stops under the axle of the front wheels or use a jack. All this is necessary in order to remove the load from the stabilizer beam and facilitate the further replacement of the bushings.

Jacks up the lower arm for easy rubber band replacement

• Further, you can loosen on both sides of the attachment of the anti-roll bar to the car body or subframe. In case of difficulties with the bolts due to dirt and oxide - treat them with a "vedashka" or other similar solution to facilitate their subsequent loosening.
• The bushing mount and the bushing itself are removed. Most of the latter are now made cut, which greatly facilitates the process of their removal.

The old bushing is removed from the stabilizer

• A new bushing is taken and put in place of the old one. Experienced auto repairmen recommend washing well and wiping the seat of the part on the stabilizer. You can also lather the sleeve a little to make it easier to move, or use a special lubricant, which is often included in the repair kit.

A pre-lathered or greased new bushing is installed

• The bolts of the sleeve clamp are tightened.

New bushing at the end of all work

• The jack or support is removed from under the lever and the wheel is placed.

It should be understood that the device and complexity of the suspension on different cars may differ significantly and the above instructions are not universal. But for a general understanding of the process and order of work, it is more than enough.

A selection of videos on replacing bushings on various cars

Replacement for VAZ: video guide

Replacement for Renault Megan 2: video instructions

Replacing the stabilizer rubber bands on the Chevrolet Aveo

Replacing stabilizer bushings on Hyundai Solaris (Accent)

The job of replacing bushings is not difficult or time consuming. Everything about everything can take an hour and a half or two. But in the price lists of the service station, this service does not belong to the expensive section. So here everyone decides for himself whether to be confused in the garage for an hour or two, or to give the car to the masters and do more pressing matters.