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Troit the engine at idle to hot. Why is a car engine troit? Causes

"One of the cylinders does not work ...", - this malfunction does not belong to the category of too frequent, but nevertheless it happens and sometimes causes some difficulties with its diagnosis. This phenomenon has received the name "Missing" ("missing "), Which in" free-technical "translation can mean the same as" engine troit "(everyone is free to call this phenomenon as he likes). In the case of missing (if you stand near the exhaust pipe and listen), we will hear a clearly distinguishable and uniform "boo-boo-boo ...". And when one of the cylinders does not work - this causes additional problems, because in this case (apart from the loss of power and "uncomfortable driving" ... although you probably still need to look for such a reckless driver who, when the engine is "tripled", will continue to drive hard!) the self-engine begins to wear out catastrophically quickly, and here's why:
  • gasoline that continues to flow into the "non-working" cylinder does not burn out, but settles on the walls (mirror) of the cylinder, mixes with the oil and enters the crankcase. Engine oil gradually begins to "liquefy", its quality deteriorates and after a while into all cylinders substandard oil begins to flow. Because of this, the compression of the engine decreases, “good” conditions are created for creating “scuffs” on the “mirror” of the cylinder, on the pistons, precision planes of hydraulic compensators and in general on everything that “moves” inside the engine and is washed by oil. The engine starts working in a different temperature regime, starts to overheat slowly, because the oil (oil of normal quality) also serves to remove heat from moving parts, and what is already in the crankcase can hardly be called "engine oil".
Here is an incomplete list of what "troubles" a "non-working" cylinder can bring to us. At first glance, the definition of this malfunction is quite simple. At first sight… But sometimes it turns out that it has been checked, like everything, and this "everything" is working fine, but the engine still "troit". Therefore, we will try “point by point” to analyze the procedure for diagnosing electronic fuel injection systems for “missing” in an “ordinary workshop” or “just in the garage”, where there are no special devices to “look inside” the engine when it is running and very accurately determine the cause of "missing". The check, as usual, can and should be started by checking the spark formation. That is, check and make sure: "is there a spark or not." Spark plug To begin with, we will unscrew the candle from the cylinder and examine it carefully. What will we see? If the engine is running (running) normally and "correctly", then the color of the side electrode and insulator will be light and slightly brown. Such a plug should work. If we see the soot of the electrode and insulator, this is a "bell" for us: "Something and somewhere is not working correctly." There is "enrichment" with fuel or "throwing" oil. And because of such a "smokiness", the spark plug may also not work or work extremely disgustingly, you can even say so - "irregular", because such carbon deposits interfere with the normal course of sparking.
  • prolonged operation of the engine at idle speed and in warm-up mode if the spark plug of the "wrong" glow number is screwed into the engine.
  • malfunction of the "non-return" valve
  • reduced compression in the cylinder
  • displacement or violation of valve timing
  • improper operation of injectors (nozzles) - "overflow"
  • incorrect operation of the oxygen sensor (Oxygen Sensor)
Next, let's look at the spark plug body. It should be white (we are not covering some individual dark-bodied spark plugs) and should not have vertical black stripes or black dots. The presence of this indicates that the candle is already "breaking through" and will not work normally. Such a spark plug is only "for the waste". Well, if the visual inspection satisfied us, then we will check directly the spark itself when scrolling with the starter. We insert the spark plug into the tip of the high-voltage wire, put it on the “ground” of the engine and crank the engine with the starter, see if the spark “jumps” between the electrodes of the spark plug or not. Slips? Okay. But that is not all. Let's remember that the spark plug “works” inside the cylinder, where the pressure is created within 10 kgcm2 (on average). And we checked for "the presence of a spark" at normal atmospheric pressure. And in order to try to get closer to the pressure that is created in the engine cylinders, we need to carry the spark plug at a distance of 15-20 mm from the "mass" and also turn the engine with a starter. If, under this condition, a good “healthy” spark of a “saturated” blue color jumps between the candle and the “mass” - everything is fine. If the wife at such a distance the spark “does not skip” or “skips”, but is barely noticeable, it can be said that we have a “weak spark” on the engine and the reasons here may be:
  • increased resistance of high-voltage wires
  • faulty ignition coil
  • switch failure
High voltage wires Let's remove and just as carefully consider each high-voltage wire separately. First, inspect the tip of the wire inserted into the spark plug. It must be solid (black or red, depending on the type) and not have:
  • light gray on the inner surface
  • gray-brown dots outside (they can be from 1 to 3 mm in diameter)
Both the first and second "tell" us that this high-voltage wire "worked" in "extreme" mode (faulty spark plug, increased gap in the spark plug), which was the reason for such a light gray plaque or gray-brown dots (breakdown). From practice, we can say that at first a light gray bloom appears, and already only from this “experienced glance” it is possible to immediately determine that the candle is working in an “abnormal” mode. And if you do not pay attention to this color change inside the tip of the high-voltage wire in time, then the high-voltage wire will simply “break through”. High voltage wire resistance - best measured with a digital multimeter. Values \u200b\u200bmay vary for each specific engine. For example:
  • Mitsubishi with 4G engine 63 - from 5 to 9 Rooms. With engine 6G 73 - from 8 to 16 Kom.
  • Toyota with 3 S - FE engine - from 7 to 12 Kom, with 1 engineG - FE - from 8 to 15 Kom
The resistance of high-voltage wires depends (naturally) on their length, but should not exceed (on almost any engine) the value of 20 Kom. If the device showed us a resistance of more than 20 ohms, we must look for the reason. What can happen to a high voltage wire? To begin with, of course, you need to disassemble it, that is, remove the rubber (plastic) tip and expose the same metal tip that is directly worn on the spark plug. In the picture above, all the "details" of the tip are shown slightly with increased distances - to make it a little clearer. In fact, the high-voltage wire should fit very tightly to the tip of the tip. This is the possible reason # 1 for the increased resistance of the high-voltage wire. Due to ordinary "aging", the contact of the inner core of the BB-conductor with the "stubborn penny" is oxidized and the resistance of the wire as a whole grows very strongly, sometimes up to 150-190 Kom. It is simple to check this statement: you need to touch the second probe of the multimeter not to the tip itself, but to the central core of the high-voltage wire itself. In most cases, the multimeter immediately shows normal and “correct” resistance. If this did not happen and the resistance of the high-voltage wire is "infinity", then the following procedure must be done carefully: I don’t know how from anyone, but we have a set of "positive" probe with a very thin needle at the end. When carrying out ordinary measurements, we do not use it, but use it precisely for such cases: we begin to pierce the high-voltage wire to the central core through every five to ten millimeters and see if resistance has appeared or not. It happens that this very "central vein" simply "burns out" by its length, and with the help of such a simple check we find the place of the break. Then everything is simple - we cut off the "affected" area and restore the performance of our high-voltage wire as a whole. However, if the wire length is "at the limit" (this is often found on engines of the "3S - Fe "," 4 A - FE "And impeccable) - you have to regret and change the wire entirely. If there is nothing to replace the BB-wire, then you can temporarily do this: splicing two BB-wires. You just need to very carefully connect the central veins of the BB wires to each other, isolate everything well in the end and try not to throw such a "new" wire onto the metal when installing it. Ignition distributor cover We also carefully and thoroughly examine it both outside and inside. A common "disease" is a "breakdown" of the distributor cap due to the increased voltage created by a faulty spark plug or high-voltage wire. If it is, we will see it in the form of a thin and winding strip of dark or grayish color, usually in the "area" of contacts. We draw attention to the so-called "coal" inside the lid: it itself should easily "walk" in its nest (it is spring-loaded and you can pull it out for prevention and stretch the spring a little), and not have pronounced signs of "burning" - as on it, and near its seat. And the last thing that can be done to check the ignition distributor cover is on the "working", that is, the engine running with a wire that is well screwed to the "mass" at one end near the distributor cover at a distance of no more than 0.5mm - 1mm. In case of a "breakdown" of the cover, we will see a slipping spark in the place of this "breakdown". Distributor with Hall sensors Let's look at the picture: This figure shows the engine ignition distributor connector 6G 73 "Mitsubishi". Location: contact number 1 - the one that is closer to the passenger compartment, contact number 4 - closer to the radiator. Wire colors:
  1. Blue-red
  2. Blue yellow
  3. Red (the "thickest" of the rest)
  4. The black

Interruptions in sparking may be due to the "unfair" operation of this distributor. We will not delve into these reasons, because this is a separate topic, we will only tell you how to correctly check the performance of this type of ignition distributor.

  1. With the ignition off, check for the presence of a "mass" (or "minus") on contact 4. This is usually a thin black wire.
  2. We turn on the ignition. Checking availability +12v on contact # 3. Please note that this contact must have a battery voltage, no less and no more.
  3. We "sit down" with the terminal ("positive") of the multimeter contact No. 2 and with the ignition on, we begin to slowly crank the engine, but not with the starter, but "manually" (either by the generator pulley, or by the crankshaft pulley). We look at the scale of the device: when the engine is slowly cranking, "0" and "+ 5 volts" will alternate there. It should be noted that after, for example, 5 volts on the scale of the device followed immediately "0", and there would be no gradual decrease in voltage.
  4. On contact No. 1 we repeat the verification procedure described in point No. 3.

The most important thing here is to find out that the signals from the Hall sensors are "correct", that is, there is always "logical 1" after the "logical 0", that is, our 0 and 5 volts.

After that, we will check the reliability of the connections of both the "plus" and "minus" wires. It happens that due to the oxidation of these contacts in the "work to create sparking" breaks occur. "Runner" of the ignition distributor Checking it comes down to determining the absence of an "internal breakdown": To do this, we will assemble a "serious structure", as shown in the figure and, turning the engine with a starter, we will carefully observe whether a spark "slips" between the "wire" and the "slider" itself or not. If it "slips" - the engine, naturally, will run unevenly (stumble) and have interruptions at idle. Nozzle (injector) The engine can "triple" because of the injector in the following cases:
  1. Malfunctions of the injector itself (a winding burned out, for example, but this is quite rare - you have to "try hard").
  2. Due to the use of low-quality fuel or improper use of various types of "fuel system cleaners", especially "SUPER CLEANERS", the injector after a while is simply "clogged" with foreign impurities (the same "scraps" from the fuel tank) and stops letting fuel into cylinders.
  3. Open or short circuits of power supply or control to this injector.
The figure above shows two common schemes for connecting injectors with a control unit (ECU ), which are used on almost all Japanese-made machines. It should only be noted that the circuit with the use of a current-limiting resistor was used on cars manufactured before 1990 ("Toyota ", eg). The appearance of the nozzle is shown in the following figure: Having assembled the above circuit, we can quite easily and quickly check both the presence of "power" on the injector and the receipt of "control" signals to the injector. When the engine is cranked by the starter, the light should flash. If everything is fine here, go to the next item:
  • Using a medical stethoscope while the engine is running, listen to each injector, pay attention to the difference (if any) of sounds between the injectors. If the sounds (clicks) emitted by the nozzles are almost the same at all, then we look at the next point:
  • Unscrew the spark plug on an inoperative cylinder and two adjacent spark plugs, lay it out on a table, carefully inspect and try to find the difference between the color of carbon deposits on the spark plugs in working cylinders and on the spark plug in an inoperative cylinder. carbon deposits are lighter than on neighboring (working) ones - you need to remove the nozzle and check, first of all, the filter at its inlet (see the figure above). It is likely that it is clogged with various kinds of sediments.
There is also a longer, but more accurate check of the injectors' performance. To do this, it is necessary to completely remove the fuel rail (rail) and turn it 180 degrees in such a way that the nozzles of the nozzles "looked" either up or to the side. High voltage wires are interchanged It happens, indeed, when one of the cylinders (or several at once) does not work because of this, and instead of immediately paying attention to this and thoroughly checking everything, the master confines himself to the question: “Did you touch the wires? " and having received a negative answer, he calms down on this. Quite often, such a "misfortune" happens on "Mitsubishi »With 4 enginesG 63 and 6 G 73, because on the ignition coils, although there are "numbers" indicating the cylinder number on which this ignition coil "works", but not everyone, firstly, knows about it, and secondly, they are sometimes just poorly readable due to mud. Below are the pictures that indicate "which ignition coil works on which cylinder":

On all other cars, the cylinder numbers are written (squeezed out) on the ignition distributor, you just need to thoroughly clean the covers from dirt and everything will immediately become visible. And there will be fewer problems.

Vladimir KUCHER, city of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk
http://www.efisakh.ru

  • Reprinting is permitted only with the permission of the author and on condition of placing a link to the source

Some drivers noticed that after warming up, the engine begins to triple, that is, its power drops due to malfunctioning of one of the internal combustion engine cylinders. In addition to a noticeable deterioration in speed characteristics, with an increase in speed, body vibrations, significant fuel consumption and a variable number of idle revolutions can be noticed. Where this problem comes from, and how to solve it, you need to find out.

About triple engine

The term "troit engine" appeared in Russian when citizens began to use cars with a 4-cylinder engine. If any of the 4 cylinders stopped working properly, they said that the engine was troit. Now the same designation is used even for 6- and 12-cylinder ICE models, although this is not an entirely accurate designation of a malfunction.

A feature of the problem is that it is detected only after starting the motor, and significant heating of the parts.

During heating, internal parts can change their characteristics and dimensions, which is why breakage manifests itself during movement. Since 1 cylinder is malfunctioning, a trip even for short distances becomes unforgettable: the vibration of the body in the first 2 minutes will already prove that the car is not able to move. However, the triad may disappear and then reappear.

Spark plug

The main thing is that it is impossible to immediately determine why one of the cylinders has failed. That is why even experienced motorists and experienced drivers can dig into the insides of their car all day long, so in the end they will not achieve any result. You have to check everything several times.

How can you speed up this procedure, and pay attention to the most important problems. Most often, the engine troit exactly when it warms up due to a malfunction of the spark plugs.

Candles are one of the causes of malfunction if:

  • Contacts and insulation of candles are covered with oil or black smoke.
  • Plugs or their contacts are damaged.

The problem is this:

  • excess oil flows from the crankcase into the combustion chamber;
  • the air-fuel mixture, which is in the combustion chamber, is not ignited due to a faulty spark plug.

The solution to the problem is trivial: you need to replace the entire set of candles, and then check the rest of the parts next to them for damage. Change oil and start engine. If the tripping has stopped, then everything is done correctly, if not, you need to look for other sources of the problem.

Possible variants of the problem

  • There is an additional leakage of air into the combustion chamber, you need to check the hoses and wiring.
  • Somewhere in the wiring a breakdown has occurred, you should check their insulation for damage.
  • The problem is in the capacitors - check, replace if faulty.
  • Inspect valves for burnout.
  • Next, you need to look at the pistons and their rings. If there are broken rings, burnt pistons, the problem may be in them.

If it continues to run hot after a detailed inspection of all parts and replacement of all damaged components of the units, then you need to contact the service station for the help of masters and computer diagnostics of the car. The cause of the malfunction is extremely difficult to find, so even finding it can take not several hours, but several days. In rare cases, even a trip to the service center can end in nothing.

How do I check the wiring?

There is one, rather risky way, to find the triple cylinder: disconnect the high-voltage cables from the running engine one by one. By disconnecting the power supply from the ignition, it will be possible to understand which of the cylinders does not work, thereby significantly narrowing the search circle.

However, there is a risk of electric shock. This is not fatal, but it is quite painful, so you need to take care of your protection. You can get started by putting on rubber gloves and standing on a rubber mat. Then follow these tips:

  • Start the engine, raise and fix the hood.
  • One by one, it is necessary to disconnect the cables from the candles. It is necessary to hold on to the insulation, not the tip of the wiring, you cannot touch the body when removing the live wiring.
  • If you turn off the slave cylinder, you will hear that the sound of the engine running has changed. But if it is faulty, then nothing will happen.

After the approximate location has been identified, it is necessary to go through all the details associated with this cylinder. Damage can even be a small break in the hose or peeling of insulation on the wiring.

  • ignition;
  • gas distribution (in such cases, something does not have to be heated);
  • fuel - check hoses.

List of possible problems

Problem. After refueling with new gasoline, the engine check signal began to light up, the car has time to warm up, but starts to triple after about 20-30 minutes of driving. Answer. In this case, it is not ignition, the power supply and gas distribution system can also be discarded. It is necessary to check the integrity of the carburetor and the fuel supply system. Replacing gasoline sometimes does not solve the problem.

This happens with some foreign cars with an automatic transmission. If you couldn't find anything on your own, you should go to the service station, computer diagnostics should identify the problem. It is not necessary to agree to the replacement of nodes for no reason, if the option only possibly solves the problem. It is recommended to visit another service station.

Problem. Gasoline engine, injection type of injection, shows gaps in different cylinders during diagnostics. The spark plugs were replaced, all parts of the gas distribution system were cleaned and checked. Answer. A breakdown can be in the distributor cover or in the ignition supply: wiring, coils. It remains to check the fuel system as well.

Engine trochanter is a very unpleasant defect that is difficult to get rid of. It is necessary to check all of the above nodes, replace damaged parts - perhaps this will be a solution to the problem. If all attempts are in vain, then you should go to the service station for diagnostics.

A fairly common malfunction is the unstable operation of the engine in idle mode, at the moments of the so-called overgas, as well as when the speed during driving is low. In this case, the driver begins to feel increased vibrations on the steering wheel, gearshift lever and on the body.

In other words, the car shakes a little, because. In fact, under the term "troit motor" it should be understood that one or several cylinders do not work, that is, the fuel-air mixture in them does not ignite, ignites untimely, or the combustion of the charge does not occur in full.

Moreover, if the speed is increased by XX or when the engine is under load (while driving), the operation of the power unit is normalized, twitching disappears, the motor runs smoothly and stably. Next, we will look at why the engine troit at idle and what the driver should do in such a situation.

Read in this article

Motor troit at idle: common causes and quick diagnosis

It is quite obvious that with such a malfunction it becomes difficult to operate the vehicle, since it is necessary to constantly increase the speed to maintain the normal operation of the internal combustion engine. As a result, fuel consumption increases noticeably, it can also be very difficult, etc.

At the very beginning, you need to determine which of the cylinders does not work. To do this, start the internal combustion engine, and then, in turn, disconnect the high-voltage wires from the candles. If, after disconnecting the power supply, the engine operation changes, this means that the cylinder is working. Disconnecting power from a non-working cylinder, on the other hand, will not change the sound and nature of the power unit.

In some cases, replacing the spark plug or cleaning it allows you to normalize the engine and get rid of "triplets". It should be remembered that although candles can be calculated for 30-80 or even 100 thousand km. mileage, in conditions of driving on domestic fuel is often necessary.

It is also important to consider that when checking high-voltage equipment, you need to observe safety precautions. If you have no experience, then it is advisable to put a wooden block, rubber mat, etc. under your feet. Also, when disconnecting the wires from the candle, you can not hold on to the cap. You need to take on the high-voltage wire. In this case, you need to try not to touch the engine and car body.

In parallel, it should be understood that armored wires can also be damaged and punctured. By the way, if the spark “leaves” somewhere, in the dark it is enough to look under the hood to detect a breakdown.

We add that on engines with direct fuel injection, it is not necessary to disconnect the wires, since it will be enough to disconnect the fuel control chips from the injector, determining the problem cylinder by changes in the operation of the internal combustion engine.

Note that when a diesel engine is running, for checking it is necessary to turn off the diesel fuel supply to the injectors one by one. To do this, unscrew the fittings on the high pressure lines.

And now let's imagine that the required cylinder is found, while the spark plug gives a spark, the armored conduit is in perfect order, and the motor still troit. In this case, you need to unscrew the candle again and inspect the tip, determining whether it is wet or dry. This will usually indicate a blending problem.

If the plug is wet, then the air / fuel mixture may be too rich. A dry candle indicates an excessive depletion of the mixture. Both in the first and in the second case, the cylinder will not work on such a mixture even if the ignition system is in good working order. The reason may be contamination or damage to the nozzles, as well as the suction of excess air.

As part of diagnostics, you can quickly check the injectors by disconnecting the power chips from them. If, when the power is disconnected from any injector, the engine operation does not change, then this is the faulty element. To confirm or refute, this injector should be swapped with the one in the adjacent cylinder. If the cylinder works fine, then the injector is not the problem.

I would also like to note that triplet can be caused by a more serious reason - a decrease in engine compression. In other words, we are talking about problems with valves and / or CPG. In this case, low compression often occurs in only one cylinder. To determine this, you need to know.

Finally, it should be remembered that the injection engine also troit in many cases due to damage or failure of coils, switches, sensors, incorrectly aligned, etc. In some cases, there may be no spark, in others there is a spark and everything is fine with the fuel supply, but triplet is still present.

In such situations, it will be extremely difficult to solve the problem yourself, especially on the road. Better to go straight to. For example, a failure or an incorrect signal from the (mass air flow sensor) is often the reason that the engine runs unevenly and troit at idle.

As you can see, if the engine troit at idle or at low rpm, the reasons may be different. At the same time, it is important to understand that malfunctions in the operation of the distributor or can also lead to disturbances during the operation of the internal combustion engine, however, in this case, the motor will often triple through all the cylinders in turn.

It is also important to understand that usually the engine rarely starts to run badly without other symptoms that preceded it. Commonly common symptoms include cold start problems, smoky exhaust, excessive fuel consumption, etc.

In some cases, to solve the problem, it is enough to fill up with high-quality fuel, warm up the engine well, and then drive for 15-20 minutes at high speeds. In others, you just need to replace or replace the armored wires. Unfortunately, however, these simple methods do not always work.

Often, deviations in engine operation are already a reason for replacing not only candles and filters, but also checking the fuel pump and fuel pressure, as well as conducting computer diagnostics. If the problem is not corrected in a timely manner, the malfunction will progress, which in the future often leads to costly and complex problems.

Read also

Why the engine can vibrate at idle. Failure reasons, diagnostics. Tips and tricks for reducing motor vibration.

  • At idle speed "float" turns: why is this happening. The main malfunctions associated with idling on a gasoline and diesel engine.
  • Hello everyone, dear readers and blog subscribers! We all know how important the reliable operation of its power unit is for comfortable and confident movement by car. Without it, the car would have become an ordinary beautiful heap of iron. That is why I have written many articles about, and coolant. There is another unpleasant situation that almost every one of us probably had to face. The engine is troit - what to do with it, and what are the reasons, we will talk further.

    You need to start by how to determine that the motor is not working at full power. This is especially noticeable at idle, when, instead of rhythmic sounds, an intermittent coughing begins to be heard and a strong vibration appears. Immediately we recommend that you go for a diagnosis or try to identify the cause on your own. The fact is that the "triplet" syndrome decreases the compression in the cylinders, conditions are created for the appearance of so-called "scuffs" on the walls of the pistons and cylinders. The power unit in this mode often overheats. Do I need to talk about how sad this can lead to consequences?

    Motor triplet is caused by partial or complete malfunction of any of the cylinders. This is due to the deterioration of combustion of the fuel-air mixture. The engine begins to vibrate violently, as if it is about to break from its mountings. At the same time, muffler popping can be heard, which indicates that the fuel in the cylinders ignites too late.

    We start by checking the candles

    Most often spark plugs are provocateurs, although there are other more dangerous reasons. We will unscrew each of them and examine carefully with the naked eye. If they are efficient, then their color will be from white to light brown. They do not have oil streaks, black carbon deposits and other symptoms. It is carbon deposits that are a signal that re-enrichment with fuel is taking place - as a result, the candle cannot ensure the normal process of spark formation in the cylinder.

    The very carbon deposits on the candles may be the result of reduced compression, disturbed valve timing. It can be caused by an injector whose nozzles are set incorrectly or a faulty oxygen sensor. All these points will have to pay close attention. You can check the spark by turning the starter. To do this, insert it into the tip of the high-voltage wire and turn the key to hot. If the spark is visible, is blue, then everything is in order with them. If it is not there, or it is difficult to distinguish, you will have to change the candles.



    If you, in the company of your friends, say that your engine is missing, you may be misunderstood or simply look at you with "square" eyes ... It's another matter if you complain that the engine is troit or one of the cylinders does not work for you, in which case a large number of different versions and assumptions, supposedly taken from personal experience, as well as advice on what to do in this case, will be poured into your address. You can, in principle, listen to the advice of friends, there is nothing wrong with that, but I would also recommend to listen to the opinion of experts on this matter. In my article today I will talk about what engine triplet is and where it comes from, you will learn about the causes of this unpleasant phenomenon, as well as about ways to eliminate this malfunction. Armed with the information I needed, I decided to stop by the minders at one popular bus station in our city, in order to find out whether various "experts" write the truth on the forms and whether they should be believed. Simply put, I decided to ask why the engine troit from those who are directly related to this.

    Let's start with why the engine troit, and not "doubles" or "quadruples", for example :-)

    The fact is that quite recently, most engines had four cylinders, that maybe six, eight or twelve, probably no one would have believed 30 years ago, but oh well ... In general, when one of the four cylinders stopped working, then there were only three working cylinders left, and the sound of the engine changed significantly. This phenomenon is called troit engine, that is, the engine runs on three cylinders with a characteristic sound. Years passed, the number of cylinders changed, but the term troite remained unchanged.

    How to understand that the engine is troit?

    Personally, it seems to me that triplet cannot be confused with anything. This sound will be immediately heard, your car is like being replaced and it starts to work like an old Zaporozhets with some kind of vibration and "rattling". Instead of the uniform synchronous operation of the four cylinders, some kind of intermittent boiling is heard. In short, it's hard to describe. At the same time, instead of a smooth hiss, "banging" will be heard from the muffler.

    What is fraught with triplet?

    First of all, you will lose power no matter how cool, and the engine will not run on three cylinders as it does on four. Everything seems to be clear here. The second sign that the engine is troit is vibration and the characteristic "shiver" that comes from the engine compartment. The third characteristic sign that the engine is troit is excessive fuel consumption and the smell of gasoline in the exhaust gases. Do you think everything? No, this, as they say, is just flowers, if you do not detect and eliminate the malfunction in time, you will be in big trouble.

    Let me explain why. When one cylinder does not work, the combustion of the fuel-air mixture does not occur in it, which means that it all accumulates in the cylinder, then diluted and mixed with oil goes into the crankcase. The more fuel goes into the crankcase, the more the oil will be diluted, its viscosity and lubricating properties will completely disappear over time. As a result, you will receive a significant reduction in compression, critical wear of the piston and rings, which will rub in the combustion chamber without a drop of lubricant, creating seizure marks and erasing the cylinder walls. In the end, an overhaul of the engine is simply inevitable.

    Reasons why the engine can triple

    You already know how tripleting takes place, but the problem still lies in some kind of malfunction, which becomes the reason for the cylinder to stop working. Unfortunately, there can be several reasons why the engine is troit, this seriously complicates the search.

    So, to your attention the most common reasons for engine triplet

    First, let's start with a non-working cylinder:

    1. Start the engine and open the hood.
    2. Listen to the engine operation and try to remember it.
    3. Next, take turns taking out the high-voltage wires. When pulling out the wire, the operation of the engine must change, since the candle stops receiving current, therefore the cylinder stops working. If the engine operation has not changed, then this is the non-working cylinder. It is necessary to search until you find which of the cylinders does not work.
    4. Now, you need to know whether the spark enters the cylinder or not, this will allow you to understand the reason, and also indicate the direction in which you need to move.

    Now you need to check the spark plugs, for this

    1. Take a spark plug and unscrew the plug in the idle cylinder.
    2. Assess the condition of the electrode using the following criteria:

    Carbon deposits or smoke on the candle interferes with its normal operation, the spark is weak or completely absent. Cleaning the candle or just temporarily solving the problem, you need to look at the root of the malfunction and continue to look for the reason why the candle is in this state.

    Checking the spark plug

    To find out the real reason why you need to test the spark. To do this, unscrew the spark plug, then put on the high-voltage wire and put the spark plug with the metal body to the engine, while the spark plug electrode should not touch the engine. Next, you will need an assistant, he should twist the starter, and in the meantime you will watch the candle. If a spark does not appear during the rotation of the starter, remove it from the mass by 1 cm and try again.

    A weak spark or its complete absence suggests the following:

    1. High voltage wire problems - high resistance or open. with a multimeter, if the resistance is high, replace them.
    2. The ignition coil is faulty - check if this is so, change if necessary.
    3. Defective ECU. Make diagnostics and replace if necessary.
    4. DPKV (crankshaft position sensor) is out of order. As a rule, with such a breakdown, an error appears, which is issued by the on-board computer, and you can also find out about it in computer diagnostics. If needed .
    5. Displaced by a few teeth. Check how the belt is standing, if its position is violated, remove the belt and adjust the position of the shafts and gears according to the marks.

    If there is a spark and the candles are in perfect order, look further for the reasons why the engine is troit, among the possible ones may be: problems with compression, faulty rings, clogged nozzles, poor fit of valves or the need to adjust valves.

    Sometimes there are cases when the engine troit only "cold" or "hot"

    In this case, the valves are most often the cause, perhaps they are out of alignment. should be carried out every 20 thousand km. The essence of this problem is that most likely, the valves have large clearances, however, after the engine warms up, they become smaller and the engine does not troit. The same is "hot" - when the cold valve motor is normal and the engine is running smoothly, but after warming up, the unregulated valve clamps, as a result, the cylinder stops working and the engine starts to triple.

    I will end on this, I hope my article was useful to you and you found the reason for the triple engine. If not, seek help from specialists. If you know of other reasons for the triple engine, I'll be happy to hear them, use the comment form for this.

    & nbsp

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