According to the general structure, the washing machine belongs to rather complex units, in case of a breakdown even, at first glance, an insignificant part, the operation of the entire system as a whole may depend. The main purpose of the washing machine oil seal is to prevent the ingress of water with detergents from the drum onto the bearing. Bearings, without proper protection from the oil seals, quickly wear out.

Checking the condition of the oil seal and, if necessary, replacing it is a rather laborious procedure, which is trusted by professionals. If noise and rattling are heard when the drum rotates, then with a high degree of probability we can say that the problem is in the bearings and seals. Contact our service center "RemonTechnik", highly qualified specialists will be able to diagnose the breakdown and fix it. Replacing the gland involves almost complete disassembly of the unit, without the necessary skills, it is highly discouraged to carry out large-scale repair work on your own.

Oil seal functions

The role of the gland is important - it acts as a seal between the drum (static part) and the shaft (movable, dynamic part) of the washing machine. Thus, the seal prevents any penetration of moisture onto the shaft and bearings in particular. Externally, the gland is a small rubber ring of different diameters.

Manufacturers of household appliances use oil seals of different diameters, which depends on the overall design of the tank. Therefore, before you go to the store to buy a new oil seal, you need to disassemble the machine and see which oil seal is needed in a particular case.

How to ensure the performance of the oil seal and extend its service life?

Since the stuffing box is supplied with constant friction and temperature fluctuations, it must be protected from negative influences. During operation, cracks may occur on the rubber tab, as a result of which the oil seal does not perform its functions. To prevent wear of the packing and prolong its life, it is recommended to use special greases that reduce friction.

When choosing such a lubricant, you should pay attention to its properties. It must meet the following requirements:

• Moisture resistance, the lubricant must contain organic substances that have a water-repellent effect;
• Do not contain chlorine and other aggressive components that can damage the rubber gasket;
• Heat resistance, one side of the stuffing box (adjacent to the drum) gets very hot. It is important that the grease does not lose its properties when heated;
• The consistency of the grease must be tight to seal the gland tightly.

Guided by the listed rules, you can significantly extend the life of the oil seal and bearings.

Breakdown diagnostics

The following factors indicate the incompetence of the oil seal:

• During the streak, even at low-speed modes, noise and grinding are heard;
• Strong vibrations and knocking;
• Strong drum play. You can check after washing by rotating the drum yourself;
• The drum does not rotate.

If the symptoms described appear, the condition of the oil seal should be checked immediately. Ignoring the problem can lead to complete destruction of the bearings.

How to replace the oil seal?

To replace the oil seals, a complete disassembly of the washing machine is required.

The parsing procedure includes a number of the following steps:

• Remove the top cover, for most models it is fastened with two screws located on the back;
• Remove the back wall, you need to carefully examine it, since there may be hidden bolts;
• Remove the drive belt. The easiest way to do this is by rotating the shaft and simultaneously tightening the belt;
• In the loading door window, it is necessary to remove the rubber casing separating the drum and the door. The seal is pressed against the opening using a metal rim. You need to pry it with a screwdriver and pull it towards you;
• Then it is necessary to disconnect all the wiring from the heating element and the engine. Remember to disconnect the ground;
• Remove all pipes connected to the drum. Disconnect the water level sensor;
• Disconnect the shock absorbers and springs holding the drum.
• It is necessary to remove the upper and lower counterweight;
• We dismantle the engine, it is necessary to unscrew the mounting bolts and move the motor forward;
• After removing the drum, you must open the latches and unscrew all the screws;
• Then, using the hexagon, you must unscrew the pulley.

After performing the listed manipulations, access to the oil seal and bearings is opened. The oil seal is easy to remove by prying it with a screwdriver.

Then it is necessary to check the condition of the bearings and install a new oil seal. The assembly process is carried out in reverse order.

The oil seal replacement procedure is very laborious and requires special knowledge, the availability of the necessary tools. We recommend that you contact our specialists for high-quality repair work.

The video will help you to clearly understand the procedure for replacing the oil seal:

Despite the fact that the washing machine is constantly in contact with water, there are parts in it that should not get moisture. To a large extent, this applies to the drum bearings, which wear out quickly when the grease is washed out. The bearing is protected from water penetration by an oil seal - a hermetic seal.

Some users ask themselves: do I need to lubricate the oil seal of the washing machine? Let's figure it out.

To begin with, consider the device and the principle of operation of the oil seal. No washing machine is complete without this detail.

This rubber sealing ring serves to protect the bearing at the joints from water. For high-quality sealing, the washing machine tank gland should sit as tightly as possible. That is why it is recommended to replace it at the same time as the bearings.

A metal bushing passes through the central axis of the tank, which, when rotating, contributes to the wear of the oil seal. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to use a water-repellent oil seal grease.

Some users use folk remedies like oil or fat. Of course, this seems to be more cost effective, since a grease that meets all regulations is expensive.

Dear users! Remember, saving on grease will reduce packing life. Subsequently, you will have to spend money on new parts and replace them.

Before replacing the oil seal, let's figure out which lubricant to choose.

Properties that the grease should have:

1. Moisture repellent.
2. No aggressive chemical components. Otherwise, under their influence, machine parts will be destroyed.
3. Resistant to temperature extremes.
4. Viscosity - for long service life.

Experts recommend using LIQUI MOLY "Silicon-Fett" silicone water-repellent grease for oil seals. It is able to withstand temperatures from -40 ° C to + 200 ° C. It is considered the most effective of all.

Other means are also popular. What else can you lubricate the oil seal in the washing machine, read below.

Italian-made grease has a neutral chemical composition and water-repellent properties. Withstands temperatures up to + 190 ° С. Perfectly retains its properties when heated. Suitable for all types of oil seals.

Ambigon is a grease for oil seals from an Italian manufacturer. The product perfectly retains its properties when exposed to temperatures from -28 to + 192 ° C. It is water-repellent and chemically inert. It is packaged both in portions in syringes of 2 ml, and in packs of 100 g.

Water resistant multipurpose grease. Unlike non-professional products, it does not harden when heated. Able to withstand temperatures from -40 ° C to + 120 ° C. Chemically and mechanically stable.

The product has a moisture-repellent effect, reliably protecting the components from corrosion. Withstands temperatures in the range from -40 ° С to + 120 ° С. Compatible with other greases, does not seal in water, mechanically stable.

Homogeneous multipurpose grease.

Replacing the oil seal in a washing machine requires the lubricant to withstand temperature extremes. CIATIM-221 is able to withstand from -60 ° С to + 150 ° С. It is successfully used in friction units, does not lose its properties when boiled.

However, there are also disadvantages: the grease is hygroscopic, therefore, absorbing moisture, it thickens and loses its properties. In addition, it cannot be used in conjunction with other products. Chemically inert.

Make your choice and purchase the right lubricant.

Now let's look at how to change the oil seal.

Let's see how you can get to the oil seal. Here's the step-by-step steps.

1. After disconnecting the machine from the mains and communications, drain the remaining water from the drain filter. It is located under the front panel, behind a small hatch.
2. Remove the two screws from the back to remove the top panel. Now unscrew the screws around the perimeter of the back panel, set it aside.
   
3. Remove the drive belt from the drum. Having locked the pulley with the hammer handle, unscrew its central bolt and remove it from the tank.
4. Disconnect the wiring that may be attached to the drum. It is usually secured with plastic straps, so use wire cutters.
5. After disconnecting the motor wiring, remove the mounting bolts and pull the motor out of the housing. Also unfasten the wires from the heating element.
   
6. Unscrew the upper tank counterweight bolts. Move it aside.
7. Pull out the detergent dispenser by pressing the center latch. Remove all bolts that hold the control panel. Opening the plastic clips, remove it and place it on top of the case.
   
8. Loosen the filler valve clamp and disconnect it from the tank. Pull out the powder hopper together with the filling valve. To do this, unfasten the wires from the valve and unscrew the fastening bolts at the back.
9. Remove the pressure switch hose, which is usually attached to the tank.
10. Open the hatch door by bending the sealing rubber, remove the outer clamp. Place the collar inside the tank. Unscrew the UBL lock screws by running your hand behind the SMA housing, pull out the lock and unfasten the wiring.
    
    
11. Unscrew the screws around the perimeter of the front panel, pull it up and set it aside.
12. Remove the counterweights from the tank by unscrewing the bolts.
13. After unscrewing the shock absorbers, remove the tank from the hooks and pull it out.

You have coped with dismantling the tank. Now let's figure out how to properly get and put the oil seal in the washing machine.

A washing machine is usually purchased with the expectation that it will last at least a dozen years, but this does not always happen. The service life of a washing machine depends on many factors: the conscientiousness of the manufacturer, the frequency of use and compliance with the rules of operation.

Gentle care includes not only the choice of high-quality detergents, timely cleaning and prevention of scale formation, but also control over the condition of the internal elements of the washing machine.

One such element is the oil seal. You can find out what it is and how to keep it in working order by reading this article.

What is an oil seal and why is it lubricated

The stuffing box (or, as it is more correct to call it, the stuffing box) is a part of the mechanism that serves as a sealing element between its two parts, one of which is movable and the other is not. The gland is usually made of rubber, so it not only seals, but also seals the connection.

In a washing machine, oil seals are needed in order to protect the bearings from water ingress. They are located on top of a bronze bushing, which, in turn, is fixed along the axle shaft. The oil seals must be replaced with the bearings so that the connection always remains tight and sealed.

The axle shaft is a rotating shaft on which the tank and drum of the washing machine are fixed. Rotating, the shaft comes into contact with the inner surface of the stuffing box. Constantly exposed to friction, this part wears out quickly. To slow this process down, a special oil seal lubricant is used to provide sliding, thereby reducing friction. If the grease is not renewed in time, the oil seal will dry out and water will begin to pass through, which will lead to bearing failure and malfunctioning of the washing machine.

Lubrication requirements

There is a category of washing machine owners who, instead of specialized compositions for the care of stuffing box devices, prefers to use folk remedies, for example, vegetable oil or fats. Such a solution, of course, is more economical, but it does not affect the state of the mechanism in the best way.

• they are moisture resistant, that is, they do not lose their properties, being in constant contact with water;
• have a non-aggressive chemical composition that does not destroy the surface of the stuffing box and metal shaft;
• resistant to temperature changes, do not disintegrate and do not lose their qualities when exposed to heat;
• have sufficient thickness and viscosity so as not to wash off with water for a long time.

Oil seal grease is usually sold in shops specializing in washing machines or parts for various types of household appliances. The price of this consumable may unpleasantly surprise you: this is due to the fact that this is a narrow-purpose product that is difficult to find on sale.

Often, manufacturers of household appliances are engaged in the production of greases for oil seals, which are intended directly for this brand of washing machines, but in reality they are suitable for all models. Most lubricants are interchangeable, you just need to pay attention to the main component of the composition. Silicone and titanium lubricants are popular, which repel water well and are able to withstand temperatures up to 200 degrees.

Instructions for use

To replace the oil seal or renew the lubricant, you first have to almost completely disassemble the washing machine, pull out the tank and remove the drum from it. We described in detail how to do this in the article "How to remove a bearing from a washing machine drum?"

Having replaced worn out bearings and seals with new ones, you need to make sure that they last as long as possible. To do this, we need to properly lubricate the oil seal. First, the grease is applied to the outer surface of the gland in an even, thin layer. Then we start processing the inner surface. The layer should be a little thicker here. The oil seal can then be reinstalled.

Visually and in more detail, the whole process, see the next video.

How can you replace the lubricant?

Sometimes it is not possible to find a special grease for the oil seals. In this case, craftsmen replace it with petroleum-based products similar in action, for example, solid oil or lithol. Experts warn against the use of these funds, as they contribute to the rapid wear of the oil seals. Similar lubricants are used in the automotive industry, but they do more harm than good to household appliances. Therefore, it is better to spend time and money on purchasing specialized products that have a lasting effect and are completely safe for washing machines.

Today, you will not surprise anyone with automatic washing machines, like any other household appliances that greatly facilitate a person's life. And yet, it is SMA that amazes with its ability to combine seemingly incompatible - a container with soapy water and electrical components and mechanical parts that are afraid of moisture. And it is clear that the designers took care of this contradiction by creating special protection for metal parts - cuffs (oil seals).

So what are oil seals?

Oil seals are a sealing material, which is also called a rubber shaped cuff. Cuffs are used in any washing machine, and play the same role, only they have a difference in size and profile. The difference between oil seals for SMA is that they have different points of abutment to the rotating axis and additional edges.

In addition, it will be useful to know that the characteristics of the cuffs are also dependent on the type of rubber that was used during production. So the cuffs can be made of nitrile butadiene, fluoroelastomer and silicone rubber.

If we touch upon the manufacturing method, then there are 2 options: a reinforced oil seal with a molded edge and with a machined edge.

All existing types of cuffs contain a metal reinforcing insert, which is very sensitive. Therefore, when replacing the oil seal, the masters must observe all precautions so as not to inadvertently injure the insert and nullify the useful properties of the entire important part of the washing machine.

In addition to the above presented oil seals, there is one more type of them - in-ring (V-RING). V-shaped cuffs are used in conjunction with a baffle disc that is rigidly attached to the tank. Its uniqueness lies in the fact that the oil seal, during its installation on the axle, fits very tightly with its V-shaped edges to the disc.

The wisdom of installing oil seals in automatic washing machines

To make it more clear what the oil seal is used for, we will consider in detail using the example of the now popular automatic machines with front loading. So…

The drums of these automatic washing machines are fixed on a special support (bracket) with 3 or 4 "paws". Sometimes it is also called "spider". In the middle of the caliper there is a semi-axle made of steel, which is necessary for mounting in the tank on the bearing assembly. This property allows the drums to move while spinning. And the semiaxis is driven from the electric drive of the machine.

As you understand, the gland is not attached directly to the shaft itself, but to the bronze bushing - bushing + gland \u003d paired parts of the sealing assembly. And they are entrusted with the main mission of protecting the entire bearing assembly and axle.

That is why, as soon as the oil seal is worn out, the entire system of the washing machine-machine will instantly fail. And the owners will only have to contact the repair service as soon as possible, where highly qualified specialists will easily cope with the malfunctions that have arisen not only in the AGR, but also in any other household appliances.

What are the differences in the installation of the oil seal according to the type of material of the CMA tank?

If the tank of the washing machine is plastic, then a metal sleeve is pressed into its center. In it, during assembly / repair, a cuff is pressed in together with bearings, then a "spider" with a drum device is inserted into them, and the oil seal falls into its rightful place in the middle of the sleeve. And at the opposite end of the axle there is the thread required for the drive belt (pulley). But it also happens that in a plastic tank or its lid, there are sometimes pre-made marks for a bearing with a seal.

In an automatic machine with an iron tank, the bearings and the cuff are embedded in the caliper or in the silumin base.

You need to know that there are also ready-made rotary assemblies, in which there are sealing inserts (ring) made of graphite plastic.

Ready-made rotation units for automatic washing machines

Such knots are a very convenient application. And all because the ring inserts contain graphite, which has a self-lubricating property. This is what helps the inserts to get used to each other as best as possible during the working period, which helps to achieve high efficiency.

Rotary pre-assembled assemblies are attached to the tank container on both sides of the drum device or directly to its lid using annular rubber cuffs. The half shaft of each finished unit has a faceted recess and a threaded place for a drive belt. The base on which the nodes are attached is a silumin support. But in this case, there is a drawback - its interaction with the cleaning solution, which is not a sign of durability.

A few words about specials. lubricating oil seals of washing machines

Many specialists sometimes use lubricants to install oil seals. Specialist. the lubricant is designed to give the best water-repellent properties both to the cuff with the sleeve and the axis on which they are located. And here ATTENTION! In no case should you use machine lubricant - it has a bad effect on the rubber of the cuffs, making it less resistant to water-washing solutions. And it is clear that its warranty period is significantly reduced.

As can be seen from the above, self-repair of the oil seals is undesirable in order to avoid disruption of the correct operation of all the main units of the AGR. Therefore, it is best to contact the repairmen. Well, you can buy installation fittings, spare parts and accessories for all large and small household appliances from us - in a company that has 13 years of experience with such a product. Our stores offer goods and spare parts only from recognized global manufacturers

Hi, I'm Mat, today we'll show you how to get your car repaired. Before starting work on the machine, disconnect it from the mains to completely eliminate the possibility of electric shock. Also make sure you turn off the hot and cold water supplies. In this video, we show you how to replace bearings and oil seal on an LG washing machine. This will be a difficult and rather lengthy renovation. You can buy bearings and oil seal in online stores. When you open the bags, you will have a new bearing and oil seal in your hands. They can be purchased separately. Your machine may have different oil seal and bearing, but this video shows the general principle of replacing them. The bearings and oil seal are located at the rear of the tank. The main reason for replacement is bearing wear, when you hear a grinding sound, or when you see a leak at the back of the tank, it is a damaged oil seal.
Let's start by removing the top panel. Remove the screws from the bottom that hold the panel. Once we remove these screws, we can remove the top panel. Now we can pull the top panel back. It must be moved back 3-4 centimeters to remove it from the restraints. If you slide it too far, you won't be able to lift it up because the panel will hit the restraints on the other side. So, just move the panel back a little. Next, take out the detergent dispenser tray, push down on the latch in the center to get it out. Now we can unscrew the 2 cross screws ... Then we have to disconnect these connectors, for this we have to unscrew these little holders and disconnect the wires ... Then we can pull the wires and disconnect the connectors. All you have to do is locate the latch, push it in, and disengage the connector. Now we can detach the front control panel. It has clips that go along the entire length. Thus, we will squeeze them out and draw out the panel. Once you've squeezed them all out, you can lift the panel up a bit and tilt it, thread those disconnected panel power wires through the hole, and then you can remove the panel.
Now we can open the door and remove the collar that holds the cuff. The clamp has a spring located at the bottom, it can be lifted. Take a small flat head screwdriver and gently pry the clamp so as not to damage the cuff. Once you grab the collar, pull it out of the groove around the door to release the collar. Now that we have removed the clamp, we can detach the sunroof collar from the front panel and tuck it in, and then we can get to the back of the door lock and disconnect the connector with the wires from it. Press the latch and disconnect the connector. After disconnecting the connector, we close the car door, take a small flathead screwdriver and open this little service cover ... It opens immediately, nothing holds it.
We get access to the parts under the cover. There is a drain hose right here. If you are going to work with a pump or hoses inside the machine, you need to pull out this hose, place a dish under it on the floor and drain the water from the machine into it. All the water will not drain completely, but it will make the job much less messy. After you have drained as much water as you can, put the hose plug back in. Take a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the panel. After removing the screw, we can pull out this little panel by threading the drain plug through it. Now we can remove the cross screw that holds the front panel. We can now remove the 4 screws from the top holding the panel. To unscrew them, use a Phillips screwdriver. While loosening the last screw, hold the panel on the machine. If nothing holds her, she may fall. All screws are removed, we can lift the front panel and remove it from the car.
There are several different options for this cuff. This one has one hose attached at the top, some have a hose at the bottom, in any case they all need to be disconnected. We have to disconnect this hose at the top which is attached to the cuff through a small white tube. Take a screwdriver and, after you have loosened the hose, pull it off. The collar on the tank is attached with the same clamp as on the front. Using our flat screwdriver, pull the clamp by the spring and remove the clamp. Once you have done this, you can remove the cuff from the machine. After removing the cuff, we can remove these upper and lower tank weights. Their fastening can be unscrewed by a head by 10, we will remove them to make it easier to get the tank.
The screws have been removed, we can remove the top counterweight ... and set it aside. The upper counterweight is removed, remove the lower one. After unscrewing the screws, you can remove it and set it aside. At the top of the tank, we need to remove some hoses. Using our Phillips screwdriver, we will loosen their fasteners to remove them. Hold the clamp nut if necessary. Now that you have loosened the clamps, we can detach the hose from the tank. To disconnect the hose, simply pull it off. The third hose has a clamp on the other side, so we have to twist and loosen it. You won't be able to see what we are doing. Again, hold the nut while unscrewing the clamp on the other side. Once you have loosened the clamp, you can disconnect the hose from the tank. In addition, the thermistor must be disconnected at the bottom of the tank. All you have to do is squeeze the connector latch and remove it. Then we can take our wire cutters and bite into the tie that connects the wire harness. And now we can remove the wires from the heating element and the grounding contact. The ground wire is secured with a 10 nut. Using our 10 head socket, unscrew it. We need to remove this service panel. It is secured with 4 Phillips head screws, which must be removed to remove the panel. When these screws are removed, we can remove the panel. On the back of the car, we have to remove everything that is attached to the tank, so we take our Phillips screwdriver and remove the clamp from the nipple that holds it to the tank. The clamp is loosened, we can disconnect the pipe from the tank. Now we unscrew the screws that hold the pressure take-off chamber. Unscrew these 3 cross screws so that we can disconnect the wires from the tank and remove the motor rotor. Unscrew the head bolt by 16, which holds the rotor. Remember to hold the rotor, otherwise you will not be able to remove the bolt. And if you still can't unscrew it, have an assistant hold the drum from the inside. After loosening the bolt, we can remove the rotor assembly. Now we will take our 10mm head and remove all the bolts that hold this stator assembly. When unscrewing the last bolt, hold the stator with your hand so that the stator does not fall and is not damaged. When all the bolts have been removed, take the stator and tilt it down. Disconnect these two connectors. Press out the connector latches, and then disconnect the connector. From this side, you just need to press the latch and then disconnect the connector. We can now remove the pins that hold the shock absorbers. They have two locking antennae. All pins are removed the same way. We will take the 13 head and slide it over the pin in such a way as to squeeze the retaining tendrils, and then we can pull the pins towards ourselves using the pliers. After pulling out the pin, we can detach the shock from the tank and lower it down. On the other side, we do exactly the same. By removing the pin, you can grab the shock absorber and turn it to the side. Removing the rear pin, we found that the head did not fit between the tank and the pin. We found that a 12 mm spanner wrench works well for depressing the latch. We'll use the wrench and then you can pull the pin out with the pliers on the other side. It's the same with the front shock absorber. Disconnect it from the tank and set it aside. Now that we have everything disconnected from the tank, we can disconnect the springs. There are two of them, one on each side. They have a small plug that prevents them from disconnecting. We use a small flat head screwdriver to remove ... And then you can lift the spring to get it out of the hole on the frame, and you can lower it down and remove the spring from the tank ... And hang it back on the frame so that you do not confuse the springs later ... On the other side, everything is done exactly the same. On this side of the tank, we remove the spring in the same way, as soon as you remove the spring, hang it on the frame. Now we have everything disconnected from the tank, we can pick it up and put it on the floor. It is quite heavy, so it will be better if you call an assistant.
Now that we have taken the tank out of the washing machine, we will place it on a few wooden blocks so that we can walk around and unscrew all the bolts with our head by 10. When all the tank bolts are removed, you can split the tank in half. It should separate quite easily, but you may need to use a screwdriver to separate them. There is a separate video about the seal, but whenever you disassemble the tank it is a good idea to replace the seal so that there are no leaks when you put the tank back. When you take out the front half of the tank, make sure there are no impact cracks and no holes in the tank. If there are cracks or holes, then the front half of the tank may need to be replaced as well. We have removed the top half of the tank and the drum can be taken out. If it cannot be removed, it may be that a bearing is stuck there. It is necessary to turn the tank over again and knock out the drum. Place the plastic part of the tank on a block of wood so you can hit the drum shaft. Before attempting to knock out the drum, spray the seat with any penetrating grease such as WD-40 ... and let it soak for a minute.
After applying a penetrating lubricant, take a block of wood and place it on the end of the shaft to protect it, then hit it with a hammer. It turned out, we can raise the second half of the tank ... here is our drum, we see that the shaft is rusty and the problem is that the beams of the cross are cracked and the aluminum is falling apart. Therefore, when you take out your drum, and you see this situation, you will have to replace the drum spider. If everything is just dirty, you can clean the shaft with a wire brush to get it ready for further work. Now that we know the cross is broken, we will move the drum to the side and place the outer tank on the bars. Now we have the tank on bars again, you can take a flat screwdriver and simply pull the old oil seal out of the tank. You don’t have to worry about keeping it intact ... We will clean up the dirt around the bearings and we will pour our penetrating grease on them. We will grease the edges of the bearing, along the seats, so that it is easier to knock it out. On the other side of the bearing, I will do the same. It is important to clean up any residual oil after removing the bearings because the oil can weaken the tank material. We soaked everything with penetrating grease. We will hit the lower bearing with a drift through the upper one, knocking out the lower one first. Now that we have knocked out the bearing from the bottom side, we can turn the tank over and look. When this bearing is removed from us, we can knock out another bearing from the other side. We have both bearings removed, you can use a nylon or brass brush to clean the seat. Do not use steel brushes, as this may damage the tank material. Here are the old bearings and seals next to the new ones. If you already have them - great, if not - buy them in the online store. Before we put the bearings in the tank, we will take some liquid soap and apply a very thin layer to the seats to make it easier to put the bearings in place. Okay, put in a new bearing, put it in place and hammer it down. If you have a rubber or copper hammer, you can use that. In this video we are using a metal hammer. Be especially careful when using a metal hammer. Tap the edges of the bearing carefully to avoid damaging the bearing or tank. Make sure you hammer it flush with this metal surface. Now that we have this bearing in place, we can turn the tank over and put in the inner bearing. On the other hand, everything is the same. We will install it evenly and flat and siege it with a hammer ... After the bearing has been installed, we will push it down to the end with gentle blows with a punch. If you have a brass hammer, you can use one, or even a piece of wood. In this video we are using a metal hammer. Make sure you only lightly hit the outer race of the bearing to avoid damaging the bearing or tank. If the bearing has sat down to the end, we can supply an oil seal, having previously lubricated it from the inside with a special grease. To make it easier to fit the gland, apply a thin layer of soap around it. Don't overdo it, just a little. If everything is ready, we can take and press on the oil seal ... If the oil seal is flush around the edge, we can put the car back.
We can now fit the drum into the back half of the outer tank. We will lower it slowly down so that the shaft does not damage the oil seal when lowering. Okay, let's put the drum down into the tank. Make sure the shaft is right over the center of the hole ... and then slowly lower it down, you can probably feel it stop and then drop a little more down to the gland. Okay, the drum is in place, we can put the front half of the tank back. When you lower the front half of the tank to the rear half, make sure the heating element is inserted down into its bracket and positioned correctly. Now we will screw all the bolts back in a circle, then tighten them in a circle, and then tighten them again in a circle.
To tighten them, we use our 10 head with an extension. Now in a circle we will tighten all the bolts completely ... Now, the tank is assembled back, we will remove it from the bars and put the tank back into the car. It is quite heavy, you may need an assistant. Place it very carefully in the frame so that you can hang it on the springs and then install the shock absorbers. Let's approach the car from the side, take the spring and hook it to the tank ... And then lift it up and insert the spring into the groove. Now that the spring is engaged, we can put its retainer back on. We will do the same on the other side, hook the spring onto the tank .... Call an assistant if necessary, remember that the tank is quite heavy. Okay, now that the spring is on the tank, we can lift the tank up and hook the spring to the frame. Now that the spring is engaged, we can put its retainer back on.
Ok, now we can supply the shock absorbers. First of all, we will put the rear one. All you have to do is pull it back out and stretch the damper until it aligns with the hole in the tank so the pin can be inserted. Make sure to insert the pin just enough so that the tabs of the retainer come out on the back. We are now on the front right side of the car. We'll rock the tank and pull out the shock so that the holes line up and the pin can be inserted. Make sure the pin is fully pushed in and the tabs come out on the other side. We put the shock absorber on the left side in the same way ... swing the tank and lift the shock absorber up into place. After aligning the holes, you can put the pin in, making sure it is fully inserted and the tabs come out on the other side. At the top we will restore three hoses, this large rubber hose we will simply pull over the tube and, using our Phillips screwdriver, tighten the clamp. The little hose we're going to connect is an air hose, so all we have to do is push down until it snaps into place ... And we put on the third hose just like the first. We just push it down and tighten the clamp. We can reach the clamp with our Phillips screwdriver and tighten it ... If the clamp nut starts rotating, you can hold it with your other hand. At the bottom front of the tank, we will connect the electrical connectors to the heater and thermistor. Red was on the left, yellow was on the right, put the ground wire under the housing nut and tighten it. For tightening we use our 10 head. To connect the thermistor, we just plug in the connector and make sure it snaps into place ... And then we take the tie and reconnect the harness to the tank. After tightening the tie, you can cut the ends with wire cutters. Now we are at the back of the machine, we will attach the tank-to-pump connection. All you have to do is align it and push it up onto the tank tube. Now we can tighten the screw with our Phillips screwdriver. If the clamp nut is spinning, you must hold it with your hand. Now that we have the clamp secured, we can put back the screws that hold the pressure chamber in place ... Now we can connect the stator. We'll just plug in the electrical connectors and make sure they snap into place. Once we attach them, we can swing the stator up ... We will insert one bolt to hold it in place while we connect the ground wire and stuff. Okay, first we'll install a small clamp that holds the wire harness to the metal base. .. then we can restore our ground wire ... And then we can install this wire holder to the bottom of the tank. Now everything is connected, we can install all the stator bolts and tighten them. Now we take the head by 10 and tighten them all in a circle ... Install the rotor back, process the threaded connection of the bolt with a thread lock, before putting it back ... And then, using our head by 17, tighten the bolt. Remember, if the rotor starts to spin, you can ask the assistant to hold the drum inside the tank so that you can tighten the bolt just enough. You can now replace the back panel. All you have to do is align the tabs to the bottom, insert them, bend the panel a little. to insert tabs at the top. And then we can tighten the 4 screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Now we can put back the bottom and top weights. Install the bottom first. to install, press it into place ... then we can insert the screws and tighten them with the head by 10. The upper one is put in the same way. We will step on the front of the tank to line up the holes and put it on. After installing the counterweight, make sure it sits flat. We can put the screws in and tighten the head to 10. Okay, now we can put the sunroof collar back on. Make sure that this little pointer is right at 12 o'clock, and then we can tuck the cuff around the tank .. There is not enough finger sensitivity to fit the cuff while wearing gloves, so we removed them to fit the cuff and show you how. Make sure the collar is seated in the groove to place the collar ring. The cuff is tucked into the groove in a circle, we can put a clamp and tuck it around the entire perimeter. Align it, the spring should be in the 3 o'clock position. And then we grip the ring with pliers and thread the spring to stretch the clamp and put it on.
After installing the rear cuff clamp, we can connect the hoses. Not all hoses will be on your machine ... Make sure they sit well and tight. Move on and place the front panel. We put it on 3 protrusions ... check that the hoses are not pinched. And then we can tilt it and fix it with 4 screws. Next, put back this cover. First, screw back the little screw that holds the front panel ... Now put the decorative cover, pull out the drain hose and tuck it into the hole so that the cover snaps into place ... And then tighten the screw ... Take this little drain hose and put it in the latch ... And then we can put the drain filter cover back ... and close it. Now on the side, behind the door seal, find the electrical connector and plug it back into the door lock. Tuck in the front hatch collar ... go around and make sure the gasket is in this groove so that when we put on the spring clip it will hold the collar in place. Now we take the spring clamp and make sure the spring is 6 o'clock down. Once we have tucked most of the clamp around, we will very carefully stretch the spring with the pliers and tuck the spring clamp into the groove. Be careful not to pull the collar out of the groove when you pull back on the collar. Everything is ready, we can close the door. We put the front console back, feed the wires through the hole in the back of the panel and pull them out to the end. Then we can rotate the panel up and lock it in place. All wires are stretched, we can connect all the electrical connectors of the panel. All you have to do is insert them until they click and make sure they snap into place. And tuck the wire harnesses onto the holders ... The console is connected, you can tighten the screws that hold the detergent dispenser ... Now we can insert the detergent dispenser drawer. All you have to do is align it and then press the release latch and slide the tray all the way in. Now let's put the top panel. Make sure the stoppers fit into these small cutouts and push the panel down and push it forward to lock it in place. We can now tighten the screws that hold the top panel in place. Now that you've finished repairing the machine, plug it back in, open the water supply and start spinning. Thank you for joining us. For other successful repairs, watch the repair video on our website.