The speed of the crankshaft when the torque converter is locked is below normal when the selector lever is in the "D" or "R" position. If the engine speed at which the torque converter locks up is below normal, then the reason for this may be a lack of engine power or a malfunction of the torque converter. Check the engine for misfiring of the mixture, as well as the tightness of the valves and the serviceability of the piston group (see "Checking the compression in the cylinders", page 78). If the engine is serviceable, then the torque converter is faulty.

If the performed check revealed a malfunction of the automatic transmission, contact a specialized car service for its repair.

engine stalled while driving

Sooner or later, every driver may find himself in a situation when a car, a few moments ago, obeying all commands, suddenly stops responding to pressing the gas pedal, and red lights on the dashboard turn on. The engine stops running and the vehicle loses speed. What to do in such a situation?

Most importantly, don't be nervous! Activate the hazard warning lights, depress the clutch pedal if the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, and using the vehicle's inertia, try to move carefully to the edge of the carriageway and stop as far to the right as possible at the curb, and if possible outside the carriageway.

WARNING

Please note that when the engine is not running, the vehicle's braking system is less effective and may require more brake pedal effort to brake. The same thing happens with the power steering.

Apply the parking brake; If the vehicle is stopped on a slope, use wheel chocks. In difficult driving conditions and on country roads, set up an emergency stop sign, as provided by the Traffic Regulations. Now it is necessary to identify and eliminate the problem that has arisen.

There are two main reasons:

The ignition system does not work;

The power system does not work.

First, find out if there is gas in the tank. Switch on the ignition and look at the fuel gauge. If the yellow reserve remaining fuel lamp is off, and the pointer arrow indicates the presence of fuel, it can be assumed that there is gasoline in the tank.

Open the hood and carefully examine the engine compartment. Pay attention to the integrity of all units. Check if all the wires are in place, if there are any broken, burnt, or damaged insulation. Os-

check the petrol hoses, fuel rail for leaks of petrol.

WARNING

If gasoline leaks, under no circumstances start the engine until the malfunction is completely eliminated!

Inspect the coolant expansion tank for coolant leaks. Also check the oil level in the engine crankcase. If everything is in order, proceed with the check of the ignition and power supply systems, which is described earlier, but before that check the condition of the timing belt. If the belt is torn, the engine will not start for no apparent reason.

In addition, a sudden stop of the engine and the impossibility of subsequent start-up can cause the failure of the crankshaft position sensor or the disconnection of the harness block from it.

fell

Your vehicle's instrument cluster has a warning light for an emergency engine oil pressure drop. For the engine to operate reliably, a sufficiently high pressure is required in the engine lubrication system at all times.

WARNING

If the oil pressure drop warning light comes on while the engine is running and remains on at increased engine speed, this is an alarm. Stop driving without delay, stop the engine and find out the reason. Further operation of the engine at reduced oil pressure can lead to serious damage and high financial costs for repairs.

Checking the lubrication system

1. Open the hood. Do not rush to immediately check the engine oil level, let it drain into the oil sump, it will take two to three minutes. During this time, carefully inspect the engine and find out if there are any fresh oil leaks on it.

2. Look under the front of the car to see if the engine oil sump is punctured or leaks.

HELPFUL ADVICE

If you find an oil leak from a punctured oil sump, try to temporarily repair it in place. To do this, you can use a car camera, a piece of rubber, a rag, a wooden cork, etc. A good result can be obtained from the use of modern repair materials such as "cold welding", available for sale in car dealerships.

3. Pay attention to the oil filter. Oil may leak from under the filter rubber gasket if it is damaged or the filter is loose. Sometimes it is enough to turn it clockwise a little.

WARNING

Hot engine parts can cause burns, so wear gloves and long sleeves.

4. Remove the dipstick, wipe it with a clean cloth and reinsert. Remove the dipstick again and check the oil level. It should be between the top and bottom marks.

5. If the oil level is less than the lower mark, add oil to the standard.

HELPFUL ADVICE

If there is no funnel for adding oil, you can use a funnel made from a plastic bottle.

b. Start up the engine. If at normal level, the emergency pressure drop lamp

As with most cars over the age of 5 years, in the Mitsubishi Lancer 9 certain problems may appear during operation. The most significant of these are engine malfunctions. Let's look at the main engine problems.

The check signal on the dashboard came on

Almost any problem with the engine is indicated on the dashboard of the Mitsubishi Lancer 9 car in the form of the "CHECK ENGINE" icon.

This indication indicates that there is an error in the engine control system, and it should be checked using diagnostic devices, then the error should be eliminated.

Car engine errors are classified into active, that is, active, and inactive (which have accumulated during the operation of the car, but are not currently relevant).

Inactive errors on the engine can be removed in a simple way yourself. To do this, remove one of the terminals of the storage battery for 15-20 minutes. After that, all errors from the engine control unit will be erased. At the moment of the subsequent ignition on, the check will only indicate if there are still valid errors in the control system. Such an indication may not appear immediately, but after several tens (and even hundreds) of kilometers. Usually such "pop-up" errors are associated with the catalyst system, temperature sensors.

If after self-removal of errors the check lights up again, the reasons for this may be different. To eliminate errors, computer diagnostics are required. This can be done at the service station or on your own with any simple OBDII diagnostic scanner, including Bluetooth ELM327 using a smartphone. After determining the error code, its decoding is performed and the indicated malfunction is eliminated.

Engine won't start

Such a malfunction is critical when the operation of the car becomes impossible. Often manifests itself in frost. When troubleshooting this problem, refer to the following table 1.

The engine starts, but it runs unstable, the speed is floating

When eliminating this malfunction, follow the recommendations given in Table 2.

Other common problems of Mitsubishi Lancer cars 9

In cars Mitsubishi Lancer 9 with a high degree of probability, the following "diseases" are manifested:

1. Sensitivity to fuel quality. This is, in principle, common to all Japanese cars. In some cases, when refueling the 9th Lancer with 98th gasoline, the engine overheats.
2. Increased fuel consumption. Most experts associate this fact with catalyst clogging. Even if computer diagnostics does not detect a malfunction in this system, catalyst wear causes a significant increase in fuel consumption. On a car with an engine capacity of 1600 cc, it can be more than 15 l / 100 km. Also, such a consumption may be the result of wear of the lambda sensor.
3. Moisture penetration into connectors. This problem causes corrosion of contacts and in turn can lead to malfunctions of electrical equipment and control systems, including the engine. For the prevention of contacts, you can inject a special agent into the area of \u200b\u200bthe connector contacts (you can spray silicone grease). The grease displaces water from the contact area, preventing corrosion.

Hello dear users of the site site. A story came up with me here. After replacing the battery idle speed began to fall on my Lancer 9 (or rather, not after replacement, but after my Lancer stood without a battery for about a day).

At the same time, the revolutions fell so that during the factory it was necessary to press the gas pedal so that the car did not stall. Those. Lancer went deaf immediately after the plant. I had to read a lot, a lot of information on the Internet, and now I am sharing with you.

According to information on the Internet, there can be two reasons for the fact that the revs are low, and the car sometimes even starts to stall.

Reason 1 (and the easiest to solve). The fact that Lancer has reduced revs are to blame for the "brains" of the car. They need to be retrained, or rather to teach idle.

On the internet, I found three ways idle learning Lancer 9... I will say right away that the third method helped me, the other two were not crowned with success, and the turnover was still low.

Method 1. This method is taken from the manual for Lancer. As I said, it didn’t help me, but you should definitely try it (the picture is clickable):

Method 2. Found it on the Internet:

1. We warm up the car to operating temperature
2. We reset the terminal for about a minute.
3. We put the terminal back on.
4. Turn off all consumers (turn off the air conditioner, stove, headlights, radio tape recorder) and start the car for 10 minutes (no load)
5. We turn off the ignition and start again, but turn on the load to the maximum (heating, air conditioning, high beam, etc.) for 10 minutes.
6. We jam the car - the training is over.

Method 3. I was already desperate to put the idle speed in order, fortunately I came across this method, and he helped me:

1. We remove the terminal from the battery for 10-15 minutes (the positive or negative terminal does not matter).
2. We put the terminal back on (after 10-15 minutes).
3. We start the car, let it run for exactly 10 minutes at idle, ALWAYS all loads are turned off (i.e., the lights, stove, air conditioner, radio, etc. are turned off). I had about 2000 rpm in this mode.
4. We jam the car, pause for 10 seconds, start it again.
5. We are waiting for the engine to warm up to operating temperature and look at the rpm - if we got up to 750-800, that's great. After that, I went on business and my turnover did not drop.
6. In the next 100-150 kilometers, everything should be normalized.

Reason 2 (already more complicated, and sometimes more expensive). For this reason, the removal of the battery only coincided with the main reason for the drop in idle speed. The idle speed regulator (IAC) is to blame, while it can be trivially covered (and it needs to be changed), or, you just need to clean it. In more detail, about what I dug up about the IAC on our Lancer 9, and how to maintain it, I will try to tell you in the next article.