Antifreeze for Chery Tiggo T11

The table shows the type and color of the required antifreeze for pouring into Chery Tiggo T11,
produced from 2005 to 2011.

Year	Engine	A type	Colour	Lifetime	Recommended manufacturers
2005	gasoline, diesel	G12 +	red	5 years	Chevron, AWM, G-Energy, Lukoil Ultra, GlasElf
2006	gasoline, diesel	G12 +	red	5 years	Chevron, G-Energy, Freecor
2007	gasoline, diesel	G12 +	red	5 years	Havoline, MOTUL Ultra, Lukoil Ultra, GlasElf
2008	gasoline, diesel	G12 +	red	5 years	Havoline, AWM, G-Energy
2009	gasoline, diesel	G12 +	red	5 years	Havoline, MOTUL Ultra, Freecor, AWM
2010	gasoline, diesel	G12 +	red	5 years	Havoline, AWM, G-Energy, Freecor
2011	gasoline, diesel	G12 +	red	5 years	Frostschutzmittel A, VAG, FEBI, Zerex G

When buying, you need to know the shade - Colour and A type antifreeze approved for the year of manufacture of your Tiggo T11. Select the manufacturer at your discretion. Do not forget - each type of fluid has its own service life.
For example: for Chery Tiggo (T11 body) 2005 onwards, with a gasoline or diesel engine type, suitable - carboxylate class of antifreeze, type G12 + with shades of red. The approximate next replacement time is 5 years. If possible, check the selected fluid to meet the vehicle manufacturer's specifications and service intervals. It's important to know Each type of liquid has its own color. There are rare cases when a type is colored with a different color.
The color of red antifreeze can be from purple to light pink (green and yellow have the same principles).
Mix liquid from different manufacturers - canif their types match the mixing conditions. G11 can be mixed with G11 analogues G11 cannot be mixed with G12 G11 can be mixed G12 + G11 can be mixed G12 ++ G11 can be mixed G13 G12 can be mixed with G12 analogues G12 cannot be mixed with G11 G12 can be mixed with G12 + G12 cannot be mixed with G12 ++ G12 cannot be mixed with G13 G12 +, G12 ++ and G13 can be mixed with each other Mixing of Antifreeze with Antifreeze is not allowed. No way! Antifreeze and Antifreeze are very different in quality. Antifreeze is the trade name of the traditional type (TL) of the old-style coolant. At the end of its service life, the liquid is completely discolored or very tarnished. Before changing one type of fluid to another, flush the car radiator with plain water.

Antifreeze is an antifreeze process fluid designed to cool a working Chery Tiggo (T11) engine at an external temperature from + 40C to -30..60C. The boiling point of antifreeze is about + 110C. The function of antifreeze also includes lubrication of the internal surfaces of the Chery Tiggo (T11) system, including the water pump, to prevent corrosion. The life of the unit depends on the condition of the liquid.

Tosol is a brand of domestic antifreeze, developed back in 1971, which began to be produced in Togliatti during the Soviet era. There were only 2 types of domestic antifreeze: antifreeze-40 (blue) and antifreeze-65 (red).

Antifreezes are distinguished by the additives included in it:

• Traditional antifreeze;
• Hybrid antifreeze G-11 (Hybrid, "hybrid coolants", HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology));
• Carboxylate antifreezes G-12, G-12 + ("Carboxylate coolants", OAT (Organic Acid Technology));
• Lobrid antifreeze G-12 ++, G-13 ("Lobrid coolants" or "SOAT coolants").

If you need to top up the Cherie Tiggo (T11) coolant, it is safe to mix only one type of antifreeze, not the color. Color is just a dye. It is forbidden to pour water (even distilled water) into the Chery Tiggo (T11) radiator, since in the heat at a temperature of 100C the water will boil and scale will form. In cold weather, the water will freeze, the pipes and the Chery Tiggo (T11) radiator will simply burst.

Replace the coolant with Chery Tiggo (T11) for several reasons:

• Antifreeze expires - the concentration of inhibitors in it decreases, heat transfer decreases;
• The level of antifreeze from leaks has decreased - its level in Chery's expansion tank must remain constant. In this case, it can go through leaks in the joints, or cracks in the radiator, pipes.
• Decreased antifreeze level due to engine overheating - the antifreeze begins to boil, a safety valve opens in the plug of the expansion tank of the Cherie Tiggo cooling system (T11), discharging antifreeze vapors into the atmosphere.
• Cherie Tiggo (T11) cooling system parts are being replaced or engine repair;

Frequently triggered radiator fan in the heat is a reason to check the quality of antifreeze. If you do not timely replace the antifreeze with Chery Tiggo (T11), then it will lose its properties. As a result, oxides are formed, there is a danger of engine overheating in hot weather and its defrosting at negative temperatures. The term of the first replacement for G-12 + antifreeze is 250 thousand kilometers, or 5 years.

Signs by which the state of the spent antifreeze in Chery Tiggo (T11) is determined:

• Test strip results;
• Measuring antifreeze in Chery Tiggo (T11) with a refractometer or hydrometer;
• Changes in color shade: for example, it was green, became rusty or yellow, as well as turbidity, fading;
• The presence of shavings, chips, scale, foam.

Replacing antifreeze with Cherie Tiggo (T11) is not a complicated procedure:

Flushing the Chery Tiggo (T11) cooling system, before pouring new antifreeze, completely removes the protective layer and remnants of the old antifreeze, this is necessary when changing from one type to another. To flush the Cherie Tiggo (T11) radiator, use a special product, which is often diluted with water in accordance with the instructions.

The finished flush is poured into the expansion tank of the Chery Tiggo (T11) radiator with the engine stopped. It must first be warmed up to operating temperature in order for the thermostat to open and antifreeze to begin circulating in a large circle of the cooling system.

Then the engine is started, it is allowed to idle for 30 minutes. Discard the flushing liquid. The operation is repeated depending on the composition of the outflowing liquid. The flushing mixture can be used only in the first run, in the following - distilled water. The time for replacing antifreeze with Chery Tiggo (T11) is from half an hour, with flushing - up to 1.5 hours.

Chery Tiggo 2005. Condensation in the engine

Condensate is a liquid that has changed from a gas to a liquid state. Water in the engine will inevitably damage it - it will start to rust. And in winter, at low temperatures, the water turns into ice, which makes the engine freeze. This can cause the cooling system pipes or the cylinder head to simply burst. Therefore, the appearance of condensation must be treated with due attention.

Condensation in the engine may appear as a deposit or a small amount of whitish foam forming on the oil filler cap. This is a sign that there is water in the system. Its presence can alert the motorist, since similar signs can signal certain problems. Excessive foam formation may indicate a damaged gasket in the cylinder head, or antifreeze entering the oil system. With such problems, the engine often overheats. But if there is a little foam, in such cases, as a rule, you should not worry.

Why does this foam form in the engine? It remains on the engine after it has cooled down and is the result of oil and water mixing. As a rule, after a short time after starting the engine, this plaque will be washed off from the valve cover, but it may remain on the oil filler neck. Does this indicate the need to change the oil? No. The amount of water in it is not so significant as to affect its quality.

In addition to the engine, condensation can form in other automotive systems. For example, in a muffler, it appears from a sharp temperature drop. If water appears in a gas tank, the first thought can often be that it got there with gasoline. But this is not the only reason - if you leave the car warm, condensation can also appear. Special fluids - water removers from the tank will help to cope with this problem. They transform water in such a way that it turns into easily combustible compounds. It is enough to use them only once a year. Condensation may also appear in the body due to temperature changes. The most optimal solution in this situation would be to use special corrosion protection.

After the trip, the air in the crankcase cools down and its volume decreases. As a result, additional humid atmospheric air is sucked into the crankcase. As it cools further, moisture condenses on the walls of the engine.
Condensation build-up is facilitated by short trips when the engine does not have time to fully warm up.

WHY EMULSION APPEARS IN THE ENGINE

A white substance with a yellow tint on the dipstick, under the oil filler cap, indicates an admixture of foreign liquid in the engine oil. But where exactly does the emulsion come from in the engine and why does it happen mainly in cold weather? Let's consider the main causes and methods of troubleshooting.

Emulsions are formed by two immiscible liquids. In most cases, one of the phases of the emulsion is water. In other words, when engine oil and water are mixed in the engine, you will find a white-yellow coating in the sump, on the dipstick, and the oil filler cap. There are only 2 reasons for the appearance of an emulsion in the engine:

Ingress of coolant into the oil, of which water is an integral part. Antifreeze leakage manifests itself not only as an emulsion, but also in a decrease in the amount of coolant in the tank, an increase in the oil level in the sump;
In no case, do not continue to operate the car if you find emulsion on the dipstick. In this state, the oil loses its lubricity. It is no less dangerous to get engine oil into the cooling system, which is why the engine overheats are likely.

Condensation on the oil filler cap during the winter season.

WHITE DEPOSIT ON OIL FILL COVER

Many drivers are seriously scared when they see a white emulsion on the inside of the lid. But in most cases, their fears are unjustified, since plaque occurs due to the peculiarities of the engine's operation in the frosty season.

The ingress of moisture into the crankcase ventilation system is a natural process. But when operating the car in the warm season, it manages to evaporate. With the onset of frost, moisture actively condenses on all cooled surfaces. When the engine warms up, this moisture completely evaporates from the surface of the heated parts. But since the oil filler cap does not always have time to heat up in cold weather, condensation accumulates on its inside. Water droplets, mixing with oil vapors, forms a yellow emulsion.

In other words, the main reason for the emulsion on the lid is the short runs of the car, during which all engine parts do not have time to warm up thoroughly. That is why the owners most often notice such a raid in winter, late autumn and early spring. If you find emulsion on the oil filler cap, but the oil is in good condition on the dipstick, do not worry. It is enough to wipe the cover and periodically observe the condition of the oil in the engine.

To reduce the amount of emulsion, periodically drive your car more than a few kilometers from home to work and back. At the same time, we strongly advise against warming up the engine at idle for a long time.

HOW CAN ANTIFREEZE GET INTO THE OIL?

Breakdown of the cylinder head gasket. It is extremely rare that the cause of a malfunction is in a manufacturing defect of the gasket. More often, a loose fit of the cylinder head to the BC becomes a consequence of engine overheating. Weakening zones of the gasket appear due to deformation of the cylinder head, BC. It is in such places that antifreeze breaks out from the engine cooling jacket into the oil circulation channel. Also, the reason for the leakage of the mating surfaces can be the use of extended bolts, poor milling / grinding of the mating surfaces, incorrect order and tightening torque of the cylinder head bolts.
Erosion of the cylinder block. Poor quality coolant can eat up cylinder blocks and cylinder heads. The consequence of this aggressive behavior is craters near the coolant circulation channels. If the erosion zone spreads in the direction of the oil circulation channel, then over time this will lead to a weakening of the cylinder head gasket and the formation of an emulsion in the engine.
Crack between the oil and antifreeze channels. The cause of microcracks, through which mixing occurs when the engine heats up, most often in engine overheating.
Heat exchanger gasket leaks. The unit is designed to effectively cool the oil and maintain the thermal balance of the engine. On some cars, this kind of oil cooler is a real headache. First of all, we are talking about the owners of Opel, in particular, car models with Z18XER engines. The problem of emulsion on the dipstick in the coolant reservoir on such motors is a common design defect in the heat exchanger.

HOW TO DETERMINE WHY ANTIFREEZE GETS INTO THE OIL?

It is quite rare that coolant and oil are mixed unilaterally. It is more likely that if you find emulsion on the dipstick and under the valve cover, you will find traces of oil in the expansion tank.

When looking for the cause of the emulsion in the engine, we recommend going the path of least resistance, starting with readily available units. If an oil heat exchanger is installed on the car, inspect its housing for antifreeze leaks, oil misting. These symptoms can serve as an indirect indication that the cause of the malfunction is precisely in the cooler.

Having found a white emulsion on the dipstick and an antifreeze leak at the initial stage of the onset of the problem, you can limit yourself to flushing the engine by changing the oil n times. For such purposes, even cheap mineral-based products can be used. But even so, it is important to know how not to buy counterfeit.

If the entire filling volume of the engine oil has turned into an emulsion, you cannot do without completely disassembling the engine. At the same time, be sure to blow through the lubrication channels of the crankshaft journals, oil nozzles of the piston group. The emulsion can clog the channels, which will lead to the unfortunate consequences of oil starvation.

DEFECTIVE BC, BLOCK HEAD AND GASKET

After removing the cylinder head, carefully inspect the gasket and mating surfaces. The zones of weakening, which cause the mixing of oil and antifreeze, are usually clearly visible on the old gasket.

If the gasket does not cause any complaints, most likely a microcrack has formed in the cylinder head or BC. In the article on replacing the cylinder block, we talked about how you can check the BC at home using kerosene. If possible, we recommend using professional help. As practice shows, only a check on a pressure test bench can reliably determine the fact of leaking liners, oil circulation channels, coolant.

How to deal with emulsion?

Do not warm up the engine at idle speed for a long time. Firstly, at idle, the crankcase ventilation system is little involved, and secondly, warming up at idle is very slow. It is necessary to start driving after a little warm-up (as, incidentally, the operating manuals advise). If you suspect a breakdown of the cylinder head gasket and the ingress of gases or antifreeze into the oil system, then for this you should look at the radiator of a heated car for bubbling, as well as the crankcase of a heated engine for a significant emulsion in the crankcase. On the valve cover, the emulsion disappears when the engine has been running under load for a sufficient time - i.e. driving without frequent stops, for example, on a suburban highway at speeds above 80 km / h.

If an abundant emulsion is found on the oil dipstick, then this is an occasion to take a closer look at the state of the engine, warm it up well and make diagnostics aimed at finding possible problems.

Also, an increased formation of emulsion will be if the crankcase ventilation system is clogged or the outlet of crankcase gases is not forced, but simply a hose hanging down from the engine cover. Attention: making artisanal changes to the crankcase ventilation system, namely hanging the hose into the atmosphere, significantly reduces the service life of the engine oil due to its contamination with both fuel vapor and water and deposits of tar and other fuel combustion products. Therefore, if you did it all the same, then you should shorten the interval between oil changes.

The level and condition of the coolant should be checked every 10 thousand kilometers or 1 year of operation.
You will need: coolant, a clean rag, a container for drained coolant with a capacity of at least 10 liters.
Warnings.
Use coolants based on ethylene glycol (antifreeze).
Change the coolant only when the engine is cold.
Coolant is toxic, so be careful when handling it.
When starting the engine, the caps of the expansion tank and radiator must be tightly closed. The cooling system is under pressure when the engine is running, therefore, with a weakly closed plug, coolant can flow from under it.
1. Park the vehicle on a level, level surface.

2. Turn counterclockwise and remove the radiator cap.

3. Open the cap on the expansion tank.

4. Place a container under the drain tap of the cooling system radiator located in the lower part of the left radiator tank, unscrew the drain plug by 2-3 turns and drain the liquid.
Useful advice.

For the convenience of draining the coolant, put a small piece of hose on the drain tap fitting.
Warning.
Antifreeze is poisonous and deadly for all living things. In order not to pollute the environment, drain it from the radiator through a funnel (for example, made from a plastic bottle for soda water).
5. Hand-tighten the drain plug.
Note.
If the expansion tank is very dirty, then remove (see) and rinse it.
6. Flush the cooling system by slowly filling the system with water through the radiator filler neck to the level of the steam pipe.
7. Start the engine and let it run until the electric fan turns on.
8. Stop the engine and drain the water.
9. Flush the cooling system until clear water flows out.
10. Refill the engine cooling system by slowly pouring coolant into the radiator up to the level of the vapor pipe.
11. Start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature (before turning on the fan). Add coolant to the radiator as air escapes from the system. Until the air is completely exhausted, the fan turns off 3-5 times.

12. Replace the radiator cap and add coolant to the expansion tank up to the "MAX" mark. Then stop the engine and let it cool down.
13. Check the coolant level, if necessary add it to the expansion tank up to the “MAX” mark.
Note.
When the engine is running, observe the coolant temperature on the gauge. If the arrow has reached the red zone, and the radiator fan does not work, turn on the heater and check the air that passes through it. If the heater supplies heated air, the fan is most likely faulty, and if it supplies cold air, then an air lock has formed in the engine cooling system.
To remove it, stop the engine, let it cool down and unscrew the radiator cap. Start the engine, let it run for 3-5 minutes, then screw the radiator cap back on.
Helpful hints.
To better fill the system (no air pockets), periodically squeeze the radiator hoses by hand.
Check the coolant level a few days after replacing the coolant. Replenish it if necessary.
If after a very short time the color of the fresh liquid has turned brown, then you have poured a fake into which the manufacturer “forgot” to add corrosion inhibitors. Another sign of a fake is a sharp, complete discoloration of the liquid. The dye of high-quality coolant is very stable and only darkens over time. Liquid tinted with linen blue becomes discolored. This "antifreeze" must be replaced as soon as possible.

You will need: coolant, funnel, clean cloth.

Note

The manufacturer recommends using an ethylene glycol-based coolant (antifreeze).
Do not mix liquids of different colors and brands. If you need to top up coolant, but you do not know the brand of fluid filled into the system, replace all fluid in the cooling system. Only use products from trusted manufacturers. Remember that using poor quality coolant will result in costly engine repairs! Place the vehicle on a level surface before starting work.

Warnings
Check the coolant level on a cold engine only. Coolant is toxic, so be careful when handling it.
Do not pour liquid into the tank above the “MAX” mark, as its volume will increase when the engine is running.
When starting the engine, the expansion tank cap must be tightly closed.

Useful Tips
Monitor the coolant level at all times. Its sharp decrease or increase should be a signal for an immediate check of the engine cooling system.
If the freshly poured antifreeze suddenly suddenly quickly changed color to brown, you were sold a fake, in which you "forgot" to add corrosion inhibitors. Change the fluid as soon as possible before it has time to corrode the cooling system.

The expansion tank is installed in the engine compartment on the right side.
1. The coolant level must be between the "MAX" and "MIN" marks on the wall of the expansion tank

2. To add fluid, remove the expansion tank cap ...

Notes

If the expansion tank is completely empty, remove the radiator cap by turning it 90 ° counterclockwise and add fluid to the radiator up to the edge of the radiator neck. Then close the radiator with a plug and add fluid to the expansion tank to the required level.

4. Close the cap on the expansion tank.