We present the ATV of our permanent author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm region. Another car he built testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself ...

A year has passed since I drove out of the garage and tried out my first ATV with rear wheel drive (). And then the thought came: why not now make an all-wheel drive ATV (from the English All Terrain Vehicle - all-terrain vehicle; such an international designation was given to such machines).

Fortunately, at this time a buyer turned up on a buggy (), and the proceeds went towards the implementation of a new project.

A year of labor for 3-4 hours after work and on weekends - and the new car was ready for testing, there were only small (and I would say pleasant) improvements: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.

The power unit for my ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid-cooled. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.

The frame of the machine is spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipes with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, crossbars, etc.) - of VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "cold". I welded the lugs (pairs of lugs) for fastening the levers and shock absorbers to the frame at once, and various brackets - as the assemblies and assemblies were mounted (in place).

1 - front wheel (from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);

2 - engine (from the car "Oka");

3 - front wheel drive transmission;

4 - gearbox (from the Oka car);

5 - rear wheel drive transmission;

7 - rear wheel (from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);

8 - fuel tank (20 liter canister);

9 - rear trunk;

10 - muffler;

11 - backrest of the passenger (headrest from the car "Oka");

12 - saddle;

13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);

14 - gear fixing lever;

15 - body kit (fiberglass);

16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);

17 - instrument panel (from the car "Oka");

18 - front trunk

The transmission of the all-terrain vehicle is peculiar. Although the car is all-wheel drive, there is no transfer case in it. As you know, in the "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheel (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. Here are just the power unit itself, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and gearbox, had to be shifted relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry a little to the left in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal pivot shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.

The transmission has been assembled from units of various domestic cars, mainly "VAZ" models. But the finished industrial units also had to be finalized. For example, from the gearbox (from "Oka") to ensure the optimal (reduced) speed and increase the torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod was also made different - elongated, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The stem can be fixed in three positions: to engage 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.

Interwheel reduction gears are from the rear axles of the VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts together with the "stockings" are removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints are used as hinges in the rest of the transmission intermediate shafts.

1 - motor (from the Oka car);

2 - clutch (from the Oka car);

3 - gearbox;

4 - SHRUS (from the VAZ-2108 car, 12 pcs);

5 - main gear reducer with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);

6 - shaft (from the VAZ-2108 car, 6 pcs.);

7 - wheel (from the car "Chevrolet-Niva")

There are no undershifts and differential locks.

Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and car type (with steering rods) - at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. At first I used the steering wheel from the Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and delivered it from a Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a tube with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. It has a travel stop at its lower end. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it turns in a split nylon bracket-sleeve.

The bipod is made of 8 mm thick steel sheet in the shape of the letter "T". At the edge of the "rack" a hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made - a steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears - tapered holes for ball ends of the steering rods. These holes are reinforced with matching welded washers. The bipod ears are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.

Wheels - 15-inch, from the Chevrolet-Niva car. Tires with the corresponding rim dimensions 205/70 (width / height as a percentage of the width) with an off-road tread pattern. The wheel roll-in diameter is about 660 mm.

1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3,2,2 pcs.);

2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

3 - stand (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

4 - support of the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3,2,2 pcs.);

5 - rear strut (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

6 - support of the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

7 - front strut (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

8 - the upper support of the front shock absorber (corner 35 × 35);

9 - front shock absorber upper support (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);

10 - front engine mounting support (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

11 - rear engine mounting support (sheet s3,2 pcs.);

12 - lugs for fastening levers and shock absorbers of suspensions (sheet s5, 18 pairs);

13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

14 - upper transverse link (pipe d20x2.8);

15 - lower transverse link (pipe d20x2,8,2 pcs.);

16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);

17 - front console of footrests (pipe d20x2);

18 - rear console of footrests (pipe d20x2);

19 - connection of the front and rear footrest consoles (pipe d20x2);

20 - cross member of the footboard (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);

21 - eyelet for attaching fiberglass body kit (s5 sheet, set)

Wheel suspensions are independent, on two triangular wishbones each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). The arms are welded from round pipes of the VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the Oka car (rear). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers - from the VAZ-2109 car. Both those and others had to be finalized. In the hubs I installed studs under the wheels from the "Niva", and in the front fists - homemade swivel levers.

The muffler is homemade, two-piece. To protect it from temperature warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.

ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

(a - upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm of the front suspension; c - lower arm of the rear suspension; d - upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except those noted specially, are made of VGT-20 pipe):

1 - beam (2 pcs.);

2 - cross member;

3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);

4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);

5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the Zhiguli car)

First, I made the required contours of the body kit from a steel square pipe with a section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe bends easily even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be easy to cut the "tacks". Then he bent "wings" from hardboard (fiberboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and lintels. Where the bend turned out to be steep, I attached separate strips of the same hardboard. The front end was taken out with styrofoam purchased from a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene or the same polyurethane foam, but expanded polystyrene turned out to be a more suitable material - it is cut well with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a general structure on polyurethane foam.

1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);

2 - rudder connection plate (steel, sheet s6);

3 - brace of the plate (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

4 - split bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (nylon, sheet s18);

5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);

7 - rudder travel stop (steel, sheet s6);

8 - bearing housing;

9 - a persistent tip (steel, circle 15);

10 - thrust bearing

The false tank is of a complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the space intended for it with layers of polyurethane foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise a thick foam volume may not dry out inside. I filled it until the layers went beyond the outline. Finally, after the foam was completely dry, I began to draw the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed out with coarse sandpaper.

A part of the “Oka” dashboard was used under the dashboard. I also fixed it on the disc using polyurethane foam. Since the foam is coarse, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to respond to the conceived design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the dummy, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, then plastering with plaster and painting the dummy could be neglected.

So, the idiot is ready and in order to glue a high-quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 running meters of non-thick fiberglass, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. Wearing respiratory protection is highly desirable. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable. But experience, as you know, cannot be bought, so I gained it in the process.

I used transparent tape as a separating layer between the dummy and the product. Carefully, without gaps, the whole blockhead pasted over it with stripes. It took only 1.5 rolls of wide tape.

Diluted the resin in 200 - 300 grams with a hardener and plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before that, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases lay on flat surfaces, and on irregularities, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making folds. By the way, fiberglass stretches moderately along the diagonal of the weave, "wrapping" the desired shape.

First, he smeared one area of \u200b\u200bthe boob with thick epoxy resin, put glass cloth on it and soaked it on top again with resin. The adjacent piece of fabric was glued using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. We had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also warmed up the resin a little near a powerful illumination lamp for better fluidity.

After obkpeyki boob with fiberglass in one layer, he began to paste over it with glass mat. I got the glass mat quite thick, and it turned out to be good for them to gain the thickness of the product. But it does not fit irregularities, so I used it only on flat (or with a slight deflection) surfaces and without overlap. Resin impregnation was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be taken into account that a lot of resin is used to impregnate the stekomat, so you need to dilute it more. Uneven surfaces after gluing the stekpomat were glued in several layers with a cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had a little set, so that the resin would not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day's break, it was necessary to "rough" the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease - after all, the resin is completely cured during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even one layer.

Trunks:

a - front; b - back

Since I needed a surface, as they say, the smoother the better, and the experience was not enough, the dips and pits still remained - I poured them somewhere with one resin, and sometimes with the imposition of pieces of fiberglass. There was not enough resin. I bought it already in the household store, in boxes. I liked working with her more, because it was already packaged, and all that remained was to mix the components. And it dried faster than the one purchased at the firm.

After the glued body kit had completely dried, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: the rear fenders and the rear, the false tank with a sub-seat, the front fenders and the front end. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands with poking, he separated the product in parts without much effort from the dummy.

Now, having removed the parts, I began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, the usual preparatory and painting work on "all" technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstaking filling of recesses with fiberglass putty; then sanding the outer surface and a primer with a plasticizer. In conclusion - painting with "metallic" and varnishing with a plasticizer.

The blockhead also carefully cut and put it in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded "in place" mounts on the frame.

In conclusion, I welded the front and rear trunks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them - "kenguryatniks" replacing bumpers.

ATV basic data:

Weight, kg ………………………………………… 430

Length, mm ……………………………………… 2300

Width, mm

(on the outer sidewalls of tires) ……… 1250

Height, mm:

on the steering wheel ……………………………………… .1250

on the saddle ……………………………………… ..900

Ground clearance, mm …………………… .300

Base, mm ………………………………………… 1430

Track, mm ……………………………………… 1045

Maximum speed, km / h …………… .65

S. Pletnev, Ocher, Perm Territory

How to make an ATV with your own hands is a difficult and responsible task, but feasible for a craftsman who has perfectly mastered welding and turning. The effort and time spent pays off not only with great savings, but also with the result obtained - an exclusive, author's quadric model, which no one else has.

The features of assembling a homemade vehicle are highly dependent on the chosen base - the engine and other elements that are used by a skilled craftsman.

The 6 best base ("donor") options for the aspirant on how to make an ATV.

1. Motorcycle "Ural".
2. Motorcycle "Izh".
3. Motor scooter "Ant".
4. Another motor scooter (scooter).
5. Niva car.
6. Oka car.

Most often, some structural elements are taken from a motorcycle, others from a car.

In addition to parts (components) for a quadric, its creator will need:

• assembly "shop" - a fairly spacious garage equipped with good heating and lighting is useful in this capacity;
• a set of equipment and tools;
• blueprints.

You may also be interested in the article by our specialist, which tells how to do it.

Preparation for work, tools and equipment

First of all, you need to carefully weigh when, where and for what purposes the future ATV will be used - hunting and fishing, motorcycle walks in nature, transportation of goods, etc. It is on this basis that the choice of a "donor" vehicle must be made, having determined how powerful the engine is needed, which suspension is suitable, which trunk, etc.

Drawings can be taken from the Internet ready-made, compiled from scratch on your own, or you can combine both options and ready to remake at your own discretion.

List of required tools:

• welding machine;
• bulgarian;
• drill;
• keys set;
• various small tools - vernier calipers, hammer, knife, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.

To make the frame yourself, you will also need pipe bending equipment. In the absence, you can rent it or give the necessary work “for outsourcing” to another craftsman. Only if you have extraordinary skill can you bend pipes by hand, heating the bend with a gas cutter or burner.

Quadric components:

• engine;
• frame;
• rear and front suspension;
• steering;
• brake system;
• cooling system;
• muffler;
• electrical equipment - battery, headlights;
• body, body kit.

The muffler can be made by yourself. Everything else is to be purchased on the shadow market for used parts.

Parts selection

ATV frame

Depending on the "donor" and the design of the quadric, the frame either has to be made by yourself, or you can reconstruct a ready-made, used one.

The most important thing is that the engine is bolted securely to the bottom along the frame, which can be positioned both front and rear. Also firmly, to avoid backlash, should be attached to the frame transmission and drive.

As a material, ordinary water and gas pipes are suitable, with a wall thickness of no more than 3 mm:

• for side members - 25 mm;
• for crossbars and struts - 20 mm.

The pipes are connected using spot welding, then one-piece welding is carried out. The lugs for mounting the shock absorbers and levers are welded to the frame immediately. Brackets - during the installation of units and assemblies.

Reconstruction of the existing frame

To reconstruct the finished frame, you should remove everything, leaving the frame, dismantle the rear and build up the front. Then weld the elements for fastening a complete set of components and assemblies of the ATV. When reconstructing the motorcycle frame, move the seat posts 40 - 45 cm.

Front and rear racks are cut from sheet metal and welded, welded to the frame. In conclusion, the finished frame is painted, no need to varnish.

Engine

The engine will fit from a car, motorcycle or scooter. Some "Lefties" even construct an ATV from a walk-behind tractor with their own hands, since newer models are equipped with four-stroke engines, the power of which in heavy devices reaches 15 "horses" - against 11 hp. "Ant".

The engine from the scooter compares favorably with low fuel consumption, besides, the quadric based on the scooter is the lightest, which makes it easy to pull it out when it gets stuck in mud and sand. But a quadric for transporting goods and / or driving off-road needs a more powerful engine.

The power of the Izh-1, Izh-2 and Izh Jupiter engines - 24 hp, the old Ural - 32 or 36 hp, the two-cylinder engine of the old Oka - 35 hp. , a three-cylinder machine of a later release - 53.

The ATV needs a cooled engine to ride in hot weather. Cooling was not installed on old motorcycles, so you have to pick it up (it will fit, for example, from a VAZ 2108) and install it.

The suspension can be used both rear and front. The easiest way is to take the front from the motorcycle.

2 rear suspension options:

1. Rear axle of the car, shortened to fit the dimensions of the quad. The advantage is the presence of a differential. The disadvantage is that the design will be heavier.
2. Cardan-reduction gear design - with a gearbox mounted on the rear axle.

Please note: for an ATV, an independent suspension with high ground clearance is required.

The suspension arms are bolted to the frame through rubber-metal hinges - silent blocks.

The front suspension strut must be tilted or the ATV may tip over.

Shock absorbers are suitable from Izh, but if the budget allows you to purchase gas-oil with pumping, the driver will be able to adjust the suspension according to road conditions.

Steering and chassis

The steering system of an ATV can be both on the basis of an automobile - with a steering wheel, and with a motorcycle steering wheel. Some craftsmen combine both types: motorcycle handlebars, lever and shaft at the top, car steering rods at the bottom. It is advisable to immediately take the fuel tank with the steering wheel of the motorcycle.

A homemade steering shaft is made from a 20 mm pipe with walls up to 3 mm. A travel stop must be placed below.

When making a quadric based on a car, it is better to replace the gear pair with a chain drive. This will greatly simplify and reduce the cost of maintenance.

The input shafts from the gearbox must be able to be directed directly to the rear and front axles.

Wheels are most often taken from small-sized VAZs ("Oki" or "Niva") and shoes with rubber that meets the operating conditions (weather, terrain, etc.). The brake system is selected depending on the wheels. The steering knuckles are also from Niva or Oka.

Four-wheel drive

If you prefer a 4WD vehicle, you need vehicle steering, differentials and manual transmission drive.

The existing frame will not fit in this case; a new one should be welded for the engine size.

Suspensions, like the steering system, must be taken from the car. At the front, it is necessary to provide a place for installing the gearbox.

Installing an all-wheel drive model requires not only special skills of the craftsman, but also additional labor costs. An alternative option is to buy a ready-made all-wheel drive unit - it costs money.

Housing

Manufacturing the body is not the easiest stage in history, under the title: "how to assemble an ATV with your own hands." Suitable materials are fiberglass and fiberglass, it is easier to make a body kit from the second.

First, you need to draw, cut and build from pieces of durable foam, glued or held together with foam, a "blank" of the case. Then - apply several layers of fiberglass to it, coating each with epoxy and inserting metal fasteners between them to attach the case to the frame. In conclusion, dry the case thoroughly, then prime, grind and paint.

How to make a homemade ATV is a question that is the dream of almost any young designer.

However, this kind of dreams come true not for everyone and not at the age at which we would like. But sometimes dreamers still make what they want into reality.

Skills in drawing up drawings, the ability to perform complex technological processes, money and time are the main requirements when creating a homemade vehicle.

Today we will tell you how to build a homemade ATV using Oki parts and show you this process with a photo selection.

You can find out one of the ways and be convinced of the reality of self-creation of an ATV from car parts in the example below.

Do-it-yourself all-wheel drive ATV based on the OKA car (amateur designer Sergey Pletnev)

Let's start with the general characteristics of the project:

• Length - 2300 mm;
• Width - 1250 mm;
• Height - (extreme points of the wheels) - 1250 mm;
• Base - 1430 mm;
• Clearance - 300 mm;
• Engine - inherited from the OKA car;
• Wheels - disks: "VAZ" 2121 (Niva);
• Tires - CoordiantOffRoadR15;
• Shock absorbers - "OKA";
• Hubs - "VAZ" 2109;
• Cross-axle gearboxes - "VAZ" classic
• Maximum speed - 60 km / h
• The gearbox taken from OKI was modified by replacing the standard main gear pair with a chain drive.

This was done to increase speed on a flat road. And it looks like this:

Assembled

Exploded view

Water pipes (VGP 25x3.2) act as supporting parts of the frame. They were purchased in the form of two segments of 7900 mm each and weighing 38 kg for the amount of 1150 rubles.

For levers and suspensions, water pipes were also required (VGP 20x2.8) - two lengths of 6100 mm each, weighing 20 kg cost 650 rubles.

Two used rear axles from "kopeck" (VAZ 2101) - in the amount of 3000 rubles.

From the "eight" (VAZ 2108), fists were taken complete with discs, calipers and other + drive shafts - in total, 4000 rubles were spent for all these BU parts.

Useful metal sheets, nuts, bolts, washers, silent blocks, etc. - consumable fasteners and materials for such cases should always be enough.

From the above parts, using welding, a pipe bender and locksmith tools, such a structure was created.

Most structural parts are welded together. A carburetor was installed.

Homemade 4WD ATV Carburetor

Metal strips for suspension, engine and axles are also welded

The hubs are connected to the suspension with new fittings, washers and bolts

After the frame was assembled, miscalculations of the nuances of the position of the engine, the functionality of the gearbox and its attachment, as well as the front suspension with steering wheel began.

As a result, the following moves were applied:

From the rear post, the axle shafts are brought to the hubs. Mount for shock absorbers welded

The gearbox uses a homemade extended stem

The picture shows how the mount for the box was summed up and the position of the stem outside

The steering knuckle is taken from the "VAZ" 2109 and the steering bipod is made of a metal plate independently

After a short test drive, it was noticed that a rocker would be needed to shift gears by hand - this is the most convenient option in the case of a modified gearbox.

I must say that it was modified to increase the gear ratio from the axle to the wheels, since without this intervention, the speed at maximum revs would not have been gaining more than 45 km / h.

Further assembly

Side steps are welded to the frame, a front axle is installed, a cardan from the gearbox is connected to the front axle, and front shock absorbers are installed. Front axle shafts are connected to hubs and axle

The brake system is installed separately for the rear wheels

Installed steering and braking system for the front wheels

Off-road tires purchased (in this case, the most suitable option)

The stage of creating the matrix of the ATV has come. Polyurethane foam, cardboard, resin, fiberglass, fittings, etc. came in handy.

The technology of using materials to create a matrix is \u200b\u200ba very complex process that requires deep and detailed study.

The frame of the wings, as well as the front and rear parts of the cladding, is set with light reinforcement and cardboard. The foam was poured with a margin in places where it was supposed to make convex shapes.

The dried foam has been processed with a file, a jackhammer, a knife and other tools

An oil cooler from the helicopter was installed and the first layer of fiberglass was applied

The front suspension is fully assembled. Native ball "VAZ" 2109 from below. Top steering tip from "UAZ"

Treated surface. Side view

The hubs were fitted to the NIVA wheels with special adapters

Side view of the hub

The matrix is \u200b\u200balmost ready. Additional parts of the frame have been prepared for use as a trunk and a bumper at the same time.

The seat is homemade. The steering wheel is borrowed from the Minsk motorcycle. The controls were brought up to it.

Painting an ATV

Painted suspension elements

Assembly

The final part of the work is assembly.

Used homemade mufflers. A plastic canister is used as a gas tank. Electronics mounted.

From a different angle.

End of work

Completed work.

The panel is borrowed from the OKA car.

A considerable number of offers on the ATV market for young drivers allows today to choose a modification with different characteristics and for any wallet. If you are not ready to spend an impressive amount on the purchase of an ATV, have a creative streak, minimal technical knowledge and some special skills, you can make an ATV for your child with your own hands. Of course, you need some tools as well.

There are many interesting ideas for ATVs on the internet, perhaps you have your own ideas. Their implementation will surely bring you great joy of creativity and allow you to get an original ATV with minimal financial costs.

How to make an ATV for a child with your own hands

A children's ATV can be made independently from old motor vehicles and additional spare parts. The main thing is that the vehicle you have made is safe - we are talking about children! If you plan to use new parts, then choose only high-quality ones, and used materials need the most critical evaluation. This especially applies to fasteners: bolts, screws, etc.

What is required to create a children's all-terrain vehicle?

First of all, decide on the appearance of your unique ATV and its dimensions. You can make an off-road unit for a child of any complexity - it all depends on your knowledge and skills. If you don't want to spend months building an electric ATV, stick with a simpler design - in the future, as your child grows up, it can be improved.

The basis of any vehicle is a frame. Do-it-yourself drawing of the frame of a children's ATV is necessary in order to maintain the dimensional accuracy of all structural elements. Surely you can make the drawing yourself. If you anticipate future enhancements and upgrades to your ATV, then the frame should have a good margin of safety in the suspension. For the frame, it can be used as a square profile of a suitable size (for example, 25x25mm), a ¾ inch pipe or a ready-made structure from a donor model - it all depends on your desire, imagination and capabilities. If the frame is made by yourself, pay attention to the quality of the welds.

Wheels, brakes and steering systems, shock absorbers are the next step in assembling an ATV for a child. Wheels most craftsmen recommend choosing new ones - you can, for example, take wheels for go-karting or even for a garden wheelbarrow of 320 mm diameter. If you are making an ATV for an older child, he will probably want to ride it off-road - then choose wheels with wide tread and buy stamped wheels (albeit the simplest ones). This will increase the safety of the ATV and enable the child to overcome serious obstacles.

A two-wheel drive for a children's ATV from an electric motor of sufficient power through a gearbox (homemade or ready-made) is a good solution. The throttle button on the handlebars will delight your young driver and make the children's ATV look like a real one. The steering system is an important element to keep the little driver safe and ensure that he can easily steer his square.

DIY electric ATV: engine and battery

The battery and engine for a homemade ATV are selected based on the capabilities and needs of the driver. So, you can use a pair of motors from the Volga or a screwdriver, take an electric motor from a donor transport (for example, an electric scooter) or use your own idea. The main thing is that the electric motor provides a sufficient speed for the child - the smallest will have enough and 5-8 km / h, older children will need more speed, which means that the engine is more powerful.

As for the battery, it is important to install it in such a way that there is no need to disassemble the entire structure for recharging. A battery from a donor scooter, uninterruptible power supply or whatever you can find will do.

When all the main components are assembled, it is time to deal with the appearance of the ATV - after all, aesthetics are extremely important for the baby. Ideally, you can use body kit elements from an old, non-working model of a children's ATV, but your imagination can tell you other original ideas.

Work on assembling the ATV will not only allow you to get a unique transport for little money. It will bring pleasure not only to adults, but also to children, as making a children's ATV with your own hands is an exciting, very interesting and useful activity for every man.

Editor

"Children's ATVs"

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Children's ATV on the battery El-Sport Kid ATV 800W 36V / 12Ah

Price: 37670 rub 34500 rub

Children's electric ATV El-Sport Children ATV 1000W 36V / 12Ah

Price: 43470 rub 37900 rub

Electric ATV Mytoy 500D

Price: 63000 rub

Mytoy 750E electric ATV differential

Price: 77 700 rub

Electric ATV Mytoy 500D Lux

Price: 69300 rub

Electric buggies MYTOY 500W

Price: 82900 rub

An ATV is virtually any four-wheeled vehicle, since the Latin word for "quadro" is "four". In the CIS, this name most often means four-wheel drive, representing the symbiosis of a motorcycle and a car. From a motorcycle, the ATV took over mobility, maneuverability, lightness, speed, and from a car - excellent characteristics of cross-country ability, power and controllability. The result is a unique vehicle designed for a variety of purposes.

The domestic market provides only foreign models of ATVs, the cost of which is often transcendental. At the same time, you can easily find used motorcycles and cars at an extremely low price on the secondary transport market.

For example, a motorcycle "Ural" - large, bulky, heavy and "gluttonous" has an excellent four-stroke engine with reverse gear and costs "a penny". For this reason, it is much cheaper and more fun for enthusiasts to create their own designs for these SUVs.

A typical factory ATV - shiny, neatly built, sturdy and powerful.

Its homemade counterpart, which is slightly inferior in appearance, and even more so in terms of power.

How to make an ATV with your own hands

Before you start assembling, you need to make a detailed list of units and parts that will be needed to create your own brainchild, develop a work plan and a design drawing.

Engine: the best choice

It is logical that first of all it is necessary to find the "heart" of the future "beast" - the power unit. Absolutely anything will do, from a conventional walk-behind tractor to a six-liter V12 - there are such precedents. In most cases, motorcycle engines are used - they are economical and small.

To use high gear ratios under normal operating conditions, a Minsk or Ural engine will suffice. In summer, the issue of overheating arises, so you should choose air-cooled models. Another good option is the Soviet-made boxer engines, the indisputable plus of which is powerful traction and a completely unpretentious cardan transmission.

Suspensions: rear and front

There are two common ATV rear suspension solutions.

1. Gear-cardan system. The design is as lightweight and simple as possible, but there is no differential, which, in principle, can be sacrificed for the previously mentioned advantages.
2. Using a road bridge. The design is extremely heavy, and if there is no desire to have an ATV with an automobile base, it is necessary to shorten the bridge, which is a very non-trivial task. Of the pluses, it is worth highlighting only the presence of a differential, which is useful when moving on highways.

There are tremendous possibilities for creating front suspension and steering. The suspension levers of an ATV carry a significantly lower load than automobile ones, respectively, they can be made independently, using improvised means for this. The best option is to create a suspension based on the existing Ural motorcycle.

Frame: drawings and alternatives

The best solution is a solid construction made of pipes or profiles welded together.

It is ideal to remove the frame from the donor motorcycle and add the necessary elements - this eliminates a number of problems, but the design can turn out to be unnecessarily complicated.

Assembling the ATV

Having prepared the necessary tools, donor vehicles and freeing up time, you can start creating your own ATV:

Thanks to its reliable, time-tested design, excellent power and traction, it is the Ural motorcycle that is the most popular donor for homemade ATVs.

Video clip: "Wasp" 4x4

The video below describes the design of a homemade ATV, its characteristics, properties and features.

Photo review

Photos of ATVs based on domestic motorcycles and cars:

As you can see, using the outdated and inexpensive achievements of the Soviet car industry, you can create amazing devices that will amuse your vanity and satisfy most transport tasks.