And what to do if water still gets into the salon

In view of recent hurricanes and rainstorms, it will be helpful to remind you how you can avoid flooding your car and what to do if water does get into the cabin.

One day it may happen that, leaving the parking lot, you will see a drowned car in the place of your beloved beauty. To reduce the risk of such an emergency to a minimum, do not be lazy to take preventive measures, which the Autocenter talks about.

The only thing that will have to spend a significant amount of time is a trip to a branded service station, the masters of which will show you the gutters, the cleanliness of which must be monitored in order to avoid flooding the car. Typically, these channels or tubes are located at the rear of the engine compartment in front of the windshield. Dry leaves, fluff, dried insects, inflorescences of shrubs and trees, and other debris can prevent the flow of water through them. The accumulation of water in the "wrong" place can lead to its ingress through the ventilation system into the passenger compartment.

In many cars, it is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the drain holes in the lower part of the doors, thresholds, and structural body structures. If rainwater collects in these cavities, the car may not flood, but moisture that has accumulated and is not removed in time will lead to corrosion of the body. As a rule, most of these holes can be cleaned with the simplest tools at hand - at least a match, a toothpick, etc.

Sometimes the reason your Mashian becomes a drowned person is simply an open window or hatch. The reasons are very different: they simply forgot to close it, the children played about, the security system closer did not work, etc. Therefore, leaving the car for a long time on days in such weather as it is now, check the condition of all windows and hatches.

If, nevertheless, it happens that the flooding of the car has occurred, and a large amount of water has entered the cabin, it is imperative to dry all wet places. Otherwise, all the signs of a drowned car will be inevitable: mold, musty smell, vagaries of salon electrical equipment, floor corrosion. The latter circumstance is especially unpleasant and expensive to eliminate. Therefore, even if you have to dismantle the carpeted floor for complete "drainage", the machine must be dried. The seats and door trim can be dried by leaving the car in the sun and opening as many windows as possible.

If during the flooding of the car some parts of the electrical equipment got wet: low switches hidden under the seats and dashboards, electronic units, electronic gas pedal, etc., you should contact the specialists at the service station, even if no failures have occurred. Water can provoke corrosion or oxidation in electrical appliances and on their terminals, which will only be felt after a while. And the prevention carried out by specialists in time will help to avoid this.

Kind time reader :)

This article was written with my own hand, so that you do not suffer, as I did :))

To start looking for a water problem, do you need to analyze the problem?

1. Water enters ONLY when driving cars in rain / wet weather
2. Water enters CONSTANTLY

If in your case water gets into the cabin even when parked in rainy weather, then read below:

What cars flow most often - national rating

But then it happens closer to home, and this time it's your car, not the whole village. There's a water line midway through the windshield and a few inches of dirt in the cabin and trunk. It smells like a swamp, and only the hot sun only gets worse. And the insurer says he'll be there in a few days.

Don't wait for the regulator to arrive. Mold and corrosion will now appear. You need to clean up as much liquid and dirt as possible, and dry your car as soon as possible. If there is water in the engine, transmission, or fuel system, you simply connect the damage.

Water under the soundproofing in the cabin under the standard soundproofing may appear for the following reasons.

1. Poorly glued / unstuck windshield
One of the most common causes of water leaks into the interior. It is quite difficult to see this defect, it mainly flows in the lower corners. In the upper ones, everything is much simpler, water flows along the windshield pillars, or over the sun visors

How do you find this evil place?

Disconnect the battery grounding strap first - you must do this, otherwise you will be frying something. Then start judging how deep the water is. Honestly, if the waterline is as high as the dashboard, you'd probably be better off talking to an adjuster in the car's sum and get another one. Mechanical systems and interiors can be difficult to dry or clean, but the electrical systems on modern cars are extremely complex. These low voltage signals are extremely sensitive to corrosion on connectors and problems can occur for many years.

2. Absence of plugs for the hydrocorrector \\ clutch \\ wiring harness going from the ECU to the engine compartment.
This defect can be calculated by visual inspection.
Hydraulic corrector plug - may be absent or hang on the nozzles of the hydrocorrector, for the reason that there are krivoruky masters who conduct the wiring for the alarm through this hole, thereby removing the plug, and forgetting to put it in.
You can find it from the inside, if you open the mounting block, feel the hydraulic corrector pipes and follow their direction, you can grope a hole behind the standard Shumka.
Outside, the process is more complicated, but much more reliable. We remove the frill, move the coolant expansion tank, crawl up to the trapezium drive mounting bracket (I don’t know how it is scientifically called there) and under it you will see a technological hole. You can put a plug and fill it with sealant for reliability.
Clutch plug - sick part of the 10th family, frequent breaks of the cable. When replacing it yourself, you may not fit tightly or just not put the plug at all.
Wire harness going to the ECU from the engine compartment can be found just below the steering rack. A common problem is that this tourniquet is wrapped in a corrugation, which, in turn, is cut in half, the cut is directed towards the top :))
On it, the plug may be missing or loose in the body.

This can be easy if the water was dirty or there was a lot of floating grass and leaves. But clean water leaves no residue. Look for water inside doors and taillights, and dampness in carpets and interior trim. This will allow you to avoid unnecessary cleaning of certain areas or systems on the vehicle. Let's go through these systems.

Drying the car interior after winter

Check the dipsticks for the engine and transmission. If there are water droplets clinging to the end of any dipstick, you absolutely need to positively change the oil and filter, even after thinking about starting the engine. If the water was dirty, it would probably be wiser to remove the oil pan from the engine and wash out the dirt. Change the oil and filter again for a few hundred miles.

3. Drain plugs in the bottom.
Actually controversial moment. There are myths that if you do not install plugs, condensation can drain off on its own. But logically, regular sound insulation can absorb water.

4. Holes in the bottom... I think no comment

5. Maybe coolant?
Make sure that water is flowing to the floor in your situation, not coolant.
The coolant has a characteristic smell in the cabin, and the liquid itself.
Possible reasons: The stove pipe, the fan, the radiator are leaking.

6. Leakage of the clutch pedal cover

This casing is located to the right of the VUT. To analyze this leak, it is enough to spill water on the casing and look in the cabin for a leak.

7. Factory seam between the passenger compartment and the engine shield... Quite a common problem. Here are some quotes:

Some front wheel drive cars have sealed bearings in the front seat and you just have to wait for them to fire because it is almost impossible to clean and reinstall. And then change these fluids again a thousand miles or so if there is evidence of murky water.

What You Need to Know About Salvation Titles

As incredible as it may seem, it is possible for a dealer or individual to obtain legal title to a vehicle that has been flooded and accumulated, which does not reflect damage. In most states, common Title cars have a salvage mark in the title. But a dealer can sell a car to a state that releases a new headline without putting the car as a bailout. It doesn't matter because once the name is washed off it can be renamed in any state, clean as a whistle.

Out of anger, he tore out all the Shumka over the fuse box and saw a familiar picture. At the junction of the shield of the engine compartment and the sidewall in the very corner, the gap into which two fingers will crawl on the Vase was covered with a non-drying sealant. This sealant has not dried, on the contrary, it is even very liquid, but it oozes precisely through this joint. It condenses somewhere, and pours directly into the salon. During the fall, 3 liters were poured. I’ll add kilograms of sealant myself.

So beware. Always check any potential yellow-eyed used car or truck purchases. Look carefully if the vehicle was wet: i.e. dirt in unusual places in the trunk, watermarks inside the instruments, an owner's manual that looks like it was wet, frayed by the fiberboard door panels or the glove compartment.

You hoped you'd never have to learn how to deal with it, but it ultimately happened: you left your car windows or opened your convertible top, and a sudden storm of rain completely permeated your car interior. Do not panic; there are a number of things you can do to make sure you don't have to deal with any kind of permanent damage.

All the same, I took off the torpedo and all the pike. Took a bucket of water filled the entire windshield. As a result: a slight leak in the seams of the motor flap and the wing on the left and right.

How do you find this evil place?

At the same time, high-quality products used according to the instructions are completely invisible (therefore, they do not require removal at the end of the season). Even if four or five people are accommodated in an unheated cabin, such preparations do not allow moisture to linger on the treated glass.

Folk remedies for combating fogged up windows in the car:
To prevent windows from fogging and freezing, experienced drivers rub the glass with glycerin. However, when traveling at night, this method must be used with caution, as the glycerin layer on the glass creates reflections.

In the old days, if the misted glass began to freeze, the drivers rubbed the glass with salt wrapped in a rag. In a frost of about 10 ° C, this procedure had to be repeated from time to time. The method is bad in that the glass remains wet, and salty moisture flowing under the dashboard and behind the door trim provokes corrosion. In the zone of action of the "stove" salt on the glass dries up, leaving white streaks - "salt marshes".
The most "harmless" folk way is to keep one of the windows ajar. But in this case, some temperature discomfort is inevitable.

Anti-fogging glass:
The preparations work on the principle of changing the surface tension. The moisture-repellent film applied to the glass, due to the low surface tension, does not allow microdroplets to form and remain on the glass surface, i.e. the moisture settling in a thin even layer spreads over the glass surface.
Such funds operate, as a rule, in two stages. First, the anti-fogging agent cleans the glass (almost all brands have cleaning properties), and then the applied and rubbed layer of the preparation creates protection from moisture. If the glass is dirty, the effectiveness of the defogger deteriorates due to the unevenness of the formed film.

That's probably all. Now you know how to dry your car and get rid of moisture in the cabin so that the windows do not fog up. Good luck on the road.

P.S. Read mine, subscribe to updates, watch videos, leave comments. Comments are open as always, if someone can add to the post - write.

• If water leaks are observed after body repair, the cause can be identified using the methods described below. Finding water intrusion points requires a sequential check based on logical considerations. Before starting the checks, a complete inspection should be performed.
• An external examination for existing leaks may indicate the following symptoms:
  • The following symptoms may indicate existing leaks:
  • Check the clearances and fit of components such as bonnet, tailgate, tailgate, doors, etc.
  • Check the correct installation and possible damage to the sealing elements: plugs, rubber door seals, etc.
  • Check that the water drain holes are not blocked.
• Various checks can be used to obtain more information on the presence of possible leaks:
  • Checking using a water hose
  • Water splash check
  • Road test
  • Checking with chalk (powder)

Practical execution of tests and inspections

Checking using a water hose:

NOTE: Never aim the water jet directly at the rubber seal.

• Perform a hose test with the help of a second person (in the vehicle).
• Use detachable spray tips (water nozzle for fine water spray).
• Start at the lower part and spray the entire area, gradually working upward.

Water splash check:

• Additional checks can be performed at the sink.
• Some leaks start here or only show up here.
• The interior of the vehicle concerned should be checked using the lighting during the wash procedure.

Road test:

• If no leaks are found when performing the above checks, a road test should be carried out on wet roads.
• Road tests in various conditions:
  • At various speeds.
  • On various road surfaces (from asphalt to cobblestones).
  • With a loaded or unloaded vehicle.
  • Driving through puddles (splashing water).

Chalk (powder) check:

• This test checks the clamping and bearing surfaces of the seal.
• Checking in:
  • Powder or chalk the door seal.
  • Coat the bearing surface of the seal with a thin layer of grease.
  • Close the door slowly and open it again.
  • Check the width and continuity of the stamp on the door seal.

Other testing equipment:
Other equipment can be used to search for leaks: stethoscopes, ultraviolet lamps, special mirrors or ultrasonic devices.

Repairing leaks using recommended tools, accessories and materials

Tools and accessories:

• Dry absorbent cloth
• Detachable spray tip
• Backlight, fluorescent tube
• Mirror
• Compressed air
• Sealing lip installer
• Vacuum cleaner for wet / dry cleaning
• Compressor for sealant
• Interior trim remover
• Blade or pocket knife
• Wedge (wood or plastic)
• Heat gun
• Special mirror for detecting hidden leaks
• Test device using air supply
• Sealant (tape and plastic compound)
• Universal label
• Curved edge sealant
• Window sealant
• Waterproofing (PVC)
• Double-sided waterproofing tape
• Denatured alcohol (available in stores)
• Polyurethane adhesive
• Silicone remover
• Composition for removing tar

Water leaks according to mileage or service life

The increase in mileage affects the problem of leaks in the car. Existing factors:

• Service and maintenance of seals:
  • Lack of maintenance, inadequate or incorrect maintenance
  • Use of unsuitable materials
• Damaged seals:
  • As a result of aging, wear or mishandling / improper installation.
• Heavy pollution of the car:
  • Heavy dirt on the vehicle can seriously impair the function of the water drain channels and the rubber seals.
• Lifetime factors:
  • terms of Use
  • Ultraviolet radiation
  • Extreme climatic conditions
• Corrosion can have a serious effect on body components, especially as a result of the following processes:
  • Light or heavy rusting of the seal mandrel
  • Rusting welded seams of the body
  • Through corrosion

Water leaks after body repair

If a leak is observed in the car after body repair, the following points must be considered:

• Check that the accessories are correctly installed and sealed.
• Check for correct installation of the doors, including the tailgate and tailgate. The corresponding seals must not be damaged and must be installed correctly.
• Check the correct sealing of the welds.
• Check the correct installation of the rubber O-rings.
• Airtight glazing windows must have a correct and complete adhesive bond.

Water drain system

If there is water intrusion in the vehicle, the areas into which water enters or through which water is discharged should be checked first.

Water drain system

Water leaks. Diagnosis and elimination: Front of the passenger compartment

Windshield

• Diagnosis: Water ingress into the A-pillar area, the instrument panel area or the sill panel.
• Cause: Breaks in the sealant bead
• Elimination:
  • Tears in the sealant bead can be found from the inside using compressed air. The leak can be identified from the outside by the escaping air.
  • The second test method is a water test. The outer cladding panels must be peeled off carefully using a plastic tool. The leak should be looked for from the inside with outside help.

Side windows

The side windows can have the same problems as the windshield. Therefore, you should use the same troubleshooting steps.

Door seal

• Diagnosis: Water intrusion into the lower part of the interior door trim or the sill panel area.
• Cause:
  • A waterproofing screen installed behind the inner door lining serves to drain water that has entered the door cavity. The water is drained down or out through the drain holes. If the water shield is damaged or improperly installed, water can enter the passenger compartment.
  • Also, the drain holes can be clogged with leaves, dirt, or excess material to protect the cavity. Water collects in the doors and enters the vehicle interior.
  • Check the waterproofing shield for damage or improper installation.
  • If the waterproofing shield needs to be re-glued, only an approved joint sealant should be used.
  • Before installing the waterproofing screen, check the cleanliness of the drain holes.

Door seals

• Diagnostics: Water intrusion into the sill panel area
• Cause: Insufficient clamping force between seal and door.
• Remedy: Check the clamping force: The easiest way to check the clamping force between the seal and the corresponding bearing surface is with paper tape. Insert strips of paper at various points between the door and the seal and close the door completely. If the paper can be removed without much resistance, the clamping force is too low. Adjust the clamping force: The clamping force is usually adjusted using the counterpart of the door lock. In this case, you should check the alignment of the edges of the door and side panel or front and rear doors. Another adjustment method is to change the position of the seal mounting flange. The clamping force increases as the flange moves towards the door.
• Check the seating surface: Apply chalk evenly to the sealing surface. Coat the door supporting surface evenly with Vaseline. Close the door completely - the lock should click into place. Open the door. The chalk imprint (bearing surface) is clearly visible on the lubricant film. The supporting surface must be at least 5 mm wide at all points.
  • Check the Clamping Force: The easiest way to check the clamping force between the seal and the associated seating surface is with paper tape. Insert strips of paper at various points between the door and the seal and close the door completely. If the paper can be removed without much resistance, the clamping force is too low.
  • Adjust the clamping force: The clamping force is usually adjusted using the counterpart of the door lock. In this case, you should check the alignment of the edges of the door and side panel or front and rear doors. NOTE: When adjusting the clamping force, always check that the profiles of the different components are correctly aligned.
  • Another adjustment method is to change the position of the seal mounting flange. The clamping force increases as the flange moves towards the door.
  • Check the seating surface: Apply chalk evenly to the sealing surface. Coat the door supporting surface evenly with Vaseline. Close the door completely - the lock should click into place. Open the door. the chalk mark is clearly visible on the lubricant film (bearing surface). The supporting surface must be at least 5 mm wide at all points.

NOTE: When adjusting the clamping force, always check that the profiles of the different components are correctly aligned.

NOTE: Do not move the flange too far towards the door, as this can reduce the bearing surface of the seal against the door.

• Other reasons:
  • The door seal must completely seal the door where it meets the body.
  • Water can penetrate directly or indirectly into the passenger compartment if the seal is damaged anywhere.
• Elimination:
  • A damaged or worn door seal should always be completely replaced.
  • Observe the following when replacing a seal:
  • Always install the seal first in the small radius area (corners).
  • Then secure the seal evenly to the flange by tapping lightly with a rubber mallet.
  • Twisting of the installed seal is not allowed.

NOTE: Do not reduce the specified seal length.

• Another reason:
• Elimination:
  • Straighten the deformed weld flange using a hammer and anvil, preventing and, if necessary, repairing any damage to the paintwork.
• Another reason:
  • The door seal is in contact with the weld flange all the way around. If this weld-in flange is deformed or damaged anywhere (usually in areas with small radii), leakage may occur at that point.
  • An extended seal mandrel can also cause leakage.
  • In both cases, water enters the vehicle interior under the seal mandrel.

Sliding / lifting hatch

• Diagnostics: Water penetration through the roof hatch opening
• Cause:
  • The roof hatch is installed in the water trap. Water flows out through the water trap, water drain holes and drain hoses. The drain hoses run down on both sides through the A-pillars and C-pillars.
  • Drain holes or drain hoses can be clogged with leaves, dirt, underbody protection material, and so on.
• Elimination:
  • Check the water trap for leaks.
  • Check drain hoses for leaks and correct connection to water trap.
  • Check the drain system for blockages and blow out with compressed air if necessary.
  • Check the outer seal and correct adjustment of the sunroof.

NOTE: For sunroof leaks, first check the outer rubber seal and the lock actuator or latch mechanism.

Rear door and tailgate

• Diagnosis: Water infiltration into the rear headliner and luggage compartment.
• Cause:
  • Rear door and tailgate leakage problems are similar to other door problems.
  • In addition, the area to be compacted must be much larger. The openings for the cables and hoses must also be sealed.
  • The rubber grommets for cable and hose routing holes should be checked for damage and correct installation (completely disconnected).
  • The rear door and tailgate hinge attachment points may leak.
• Elimination:
  • Check the rubber o-rings and replace if necessary.
  • Check the hinge attachment points and, if necessary, re-seal them with sealant.

Forced exhaust

• Diagnostics: Water penetration into the side area of \u200b\u200bthe luggage compartment
• Cause:
  • The duct for forced air extraction from the passenger compartment is located in the tailgate pillar, behind the rear lights.
  • The rubber flap of the forced air suction must be free to stir.
• Elimination:
  • Remove the forced air suction.
  • Check the body-to-body seal area and the rubber flap.
  • Replace the seal if necessary.

Rear window and sunroof

• Cause:
  • Leaks in the rear window and sunroof.
  • Check for leaks in the same way as checking for windshield leaks.

Panel joints with sealed welded seams

• Diagnostics: Water intrusion into the luggage compartment
• Cause:
  • Some panel connections are made during vehicle manufacture in the wheel arch and luggage compartment. These connections are sealed with a sealant.
  • Uneven application of the sealant can lead to rupture in the sealed weld.
• Elimination:
  • Sand the sealed weld seam.
  • Look for a leak in the sealed weld.
  • Re-seal with sealant.

Everything is very simple: if something liquid has added under the car, then, most likely, this very liquid has decreased inside the car ... or in the vicinity of several meters - it also happens, and in the process of reading the article, you will understand why. In fact, a leak under the car is always fraught and deserves close attention, unless it is condensation from the air conditioning system. But how do you determine if he is the one or something else? That is why we propose to figure out what is flowing under the car, and for this we will have to stare, smell or even taste (highly not recommended)!

So, which of the indicators-properties are available to us in the fluid that appears under the car and what will give us an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat is flowing under the car? This is, of course, the color of the puddle, its texture, smell, viscosity, the ability to absorb - we can determine all this, and for this it is desirable that you have napkins or some unnecessary piece of rag in your car. Well, let's start our checklist, what's flowing under the hood? All options and examples below are considered when the machine is standing on an asphalt or concrete surface.

Condensate flowing from the air conditioner

Perhaps the most harmless thing that we can see under the hood of a car is the condensation of the air conditioner. If you read, you know that the air conditioner dries up the absorbed air, and the resulting fumes drip under the car. In this case, the puddle under the car is nothing more than water - air condensation on the asphalt. This puddle is located under the hood (although a trickle can leak anywhere), it is colorless, odorless - however, it is not for us to explain what water looks like, and it is very easy to identify it. Condensation from the air conditioner is released only when it is turned on, so this puddle can only be detected if the car has been standing still for a long time. And if you just drove up and turned off the engine, then quite a bit will drip under the car - you, most likely, will not even notice this puddle, because it will not leave the limits under the bottom of the car.

Well, if your car is not equipped with climate control or air conditioning, then the reason may be different. But if you see for sure that this is still water, then perhaps you poured it into the washer reservoir. In the end, it gathered somewhere (in the drainage channels of the hood, for example) and did not flow out immediately.

Leaks from the exhaust pipe

It also happens that liquid flows out of the exhaust pipe - and the same water as in the case of the condensate of the air conditioner. Do not worry if very little water flows out, or if it splashes right after starting the engine, and there is no more water, then this is a normal operation of the catalytic converter - you can and where water comes from in it.

Automatic transmission fluid flows

In the vast majority of cases, the automatic transmission fluid is red. In fact, it is a very deep red. It is a little greasy (viscous) and generally has a very good repelling effect on asphalt - it is absorbed very slowly into it. The automatic transmission fluid has a pungent smell, which, perhaps, is best described as "I have not smelled anything like this before" - in general, the smell of automatic transmission fluid is unique.

Power steering fluid flows

Power steering fluid is most often slightly yellowish (if it has not exhausted its resource - otherwise it is light red), which has an average level of viscosity - it looks slightly oily, it can be caramel color. Absorbs into concrete quickly. It has very little smell, but if the nose detects it, then the smell will be chemical, mechanical.

If all this is so, then most likely power steering fluid is flowing under the car. Additional symptoms that there is little fluid in the system are, of course, a low level of this fluid in the reservoir under the hood, as well as the squeal of the power steering pump, as well as heavy and slipping steering turns.

"Non-freezing" (washer fluid) flows

Windshield washer fluid - you've probably seen it hundreds of times and you know what color it is and what smell it has. The fact is that there is such a diverse selection of characteristics of such fluids on the market that it is possible to determine that it has flowed under the hood in each specific case, knowing which anti-freeze is poured into the washer reservoir. However, generally speaking, it is most often bluish, blue, green, orange or red - but in all cases it is partially transparent, not at all oily and not viscous, has a slightly sweetish and pungent odor, and is absorbed into concrete very quickly.

For a more precise definition, sit in the car, start it and sprinkle a little liquid on the windshield - you will most likely be able to recognize its color, and after getting out of the car, smell it on the windshield, and then compare it with the smell of a puddle under the car.

Never fill the washer reservoir with ordinary water in spring, autumn and, especially, winter time - even if it seems to you that there will be no more negative temperatures. It is for this reason that non-freezing often begins to leak, forming puddles under the hood of the car.

Brake fluid flows

There is nothing worse than a brake fluid leak and this is no joke! If you suspect that you have a brake fluid leak somewhere, it is necessary to diagnose the brake system as soon as possible.

Brake fluid is very similar in appearance to power steering fluid in all aspects. They are both hydraulic fluids, so their properties are similar, if not identical. Brake fluid is medium viscosity and has a dull, mechanical odor. She's a little yellow. How can you tell them apart? Brake fluid can sometimes have a reddish tint and smell like alcohol. In addition, it is necessary to localize a puddle under the car - the power steering fluid usually flows out in the immediate vicinity of the steering system: that the power steering pump, that the reservoir, that the lines with the fluid - they are all located next to the steering system on the left (for left-hand drive cars). The brake fluid can flow out from anywhere, including the localization may not be under the hood at all, but behind the car.

Coolant flowing

Coolant (antifreeze) leaks are probably the second most common, with oil leaks coming first. A coolant leak will slowly drain the engine, making it susceptible to overheating. But this is not the only drawback - because of a leak, the coolant can be fatal to animals - the fact is that domestic and wild animals like to drink it, dying due to the content of toxins in it. Even if a small amount of coolant enters the animal's body, it can kill it.

The coolant can be pinkish or greenish, but in most cases it will be green in color - from light green to light green. It has a sweet smell and is very slightly viscous.

Engine oil is flowing

Moisture inside the car is an extremely undesirable phenomenon. Despite the seeming trifle, over time it can lead to irreparable consequences, so every responsible car owner seeks to immediately eliminate the source of possible troubles. If in summer it is not difficult to dry the interior of a car, since all external conditions favor this, then in winter drying becomes a real problem. Driving in a wet car is a dubious pleasure. In addition to stagnant water and mold, which does not add comfort at all, an even greater evil is the swollen and swollen upholstery of the car floor. If the problem is not eliminated in time, dampness threatens to destroy the bottom, and can also lead to short circuits in the on-board network, so you should start drying the interior immediately if moisture gets in.

Ways to get rid of moisture under car rugs.

The most moisture-prone place in the cabin is the car mat, it is he who takes the hit most often in the rainy season or in. If the driver left the car with the windows ajar and during his absence there was a heavy downpour, and a few minutes is enough for water to get inside, wetting the upholstery and the floor. Brought a wet passenger - the effect is the same, snow or mud can easily be brought into the shoes. At the same time, it is not always so obvious where the water comes from under the rug in the car. Humidity can also be triggered by the following reasons:

• Violation of the integrity of the rug;
• Depressurization of the cabin, for example, due to wear of the seals or poor-quality assembly after body repair;
• Condensation caused by temperature differences and poor air circulation in the passenger compartment;
• Malfunctions of the air conditioner or heating system;
• Unsuitable car mats that do not fit snugly to the floor;
• Use in winter or rainy weather of textile mats that are not intended for use in such conditions;
• Poorly performed dry cleaning of the salon;
• Moisture under the rug could be caused by spilled liquid, leaking antifreeze, etc.
• Under the passenger seat, the presence of water is inevitable if people got into the car in wet clothes;
• Submersion of the car in water.

Wherever the water in the car comes from, and whatever the scale of the situation, it is better to start drying right away, without waiting for the dampness to finally take over the territory. In some cases, the problem can be solved in a few minutes with the help of improvised means, in others, you have to tinker a lot, using "heavy artillery" to dry or even resort to the help of specialists.

What to do if there is little moisture

Of course, it is better to prevent the appearance of moisture in the car interior than to deal with it later. Motorists who pay attention to car maintenance in order to avoid unpleasant consequences are concerned about maintaining dryness as much as replacing consumables.

It is also important to regularly monitor the integrity of the insulating materials, because the seals wear out over time and can leak water from the outside. In case of wear, it is better to replace the insulation immediately.

In summer, it is easy to provide conditions for quick moisture removal, for this it is enough just to slightly open windows or doors so that warm air flows circulate well. If the car is equipped with a climate control system, then in any bad weather you can organize a suitable microclimate in the cabin. To get rid of excess moisture will help the option "Defrost windows". Of course, you should not only shake off the snow from clothes and shoes when getting into the car, but also use the right rugs so that moisture initially has no chance. In winter, you should not use textile car mats; rubber mats are better for this period, since it is easy to remove water from them. Leaving the car in a well-ventilated vehicle, you don't have to worry about the accumulation of moisture in the cabin. Drying will not be difficult even in winter, if the room is well ventilated, since the water evaporating from the heat will not settle in the form of condensation. So, if you leave the windows or doors of the car open in such a garage, the problem will be solved spontaneously.

It is not always possible to provide ideal conditions for maintaining a car, and this is where many car owners are faced with the accumulation of moisture in the cabin, puzzling later how to dry the car interior under the rugs. A small amount of moisture is not such a daunting problem as serious wetting of upholstery and flooring, which requires special trouble to fix. First of all, you should get rid of the main water by blotting the places of accumulation with any of the materials that absorb moisture, for which dry rags, newspapers, disposable towels, diapers and other similar things that are not difficult to find are suitable. Car mats should be removed, washed and dried thoroughly. Those who have already dried the rugs in winter know firsthand that the process takes much more time than in the warm season, therefore it is necessary to provide appropriate conditions for drying, in the cold it will not be possible to perform the task properly. Further, the carpet is lifted, and the main moisture from it and the bottom is removed by absorbent agents to facilitate subsequent, more thorough drying. Rugs or carpet, where any other chemicals, require careful removal of the composition from the surface.

Motorists often use silica gel or regular salt to dry the interior under carpets. Choosing this option, one should not forget about the subsequent cleaning of granules, particles, which will require a powerful vacuum cleaner. In addition, toilet paper is often used, which also absorbs moisture well, for which it is laid out on a wet surface and changed as it gets wet. If the car is not so critically wet and there are no puddles under the rugs, drying will not take much time and effort. In dry summer weather, the easiest solution is to remove the car mats and leave the car with the windows and doors open in the sun. In a few hours, the problem will be solved without your further participation. In winter, heat and ventilation should be provided. An effective option is to use a heat gun or a hair dryer. Be careful not to burn yourself or provoke a fire. The stove and air conditioner used in tandem with each other will also cope with the task. Turning on the stove to blow off the legs and the air conditioner to recirculation, the car doors should be closed. When the cabin is warmed up, the water will begin to evaporate, and the vapors will not settle due to the ventilation of the air.

Actions in case of strong moistening of the floor

With a more global flooding of the passenger compartment, for example, when the car scooped water well from a deep puddle or dived into a pond, the problem cannot be solved by the considered methods. If you can drain the main water yourself, then for complete drying it is better to use the services of professionals, since in this case it is impossible to hesitate. The longer the interior contact with water, the higher the probability of moisture penetration into the noise and heat insulation layers of the upholstery. In addition to worries about removing water from the floor, in this case, you will have to disassemble the upholstery for its subsequent drying. This will take a lot of time and a place where it will be necessary to dry the materials, but if everything is done correctly and quickly, then the appearance of mold, an unpleasant odor of dampness and other related problems can be avoided.

The water in the car under the rug can easily be pumped out with a vacuum cleaner at the sink, after which you can directly dry the interior. It is up to you to dry the salon or resort to the help of specialists, but you cannot expect that the moisture will go away by itself, as well as delay the event. Where there is a dry cleaning service, there is also special equipment that allows you to thoroughly dry the car. This option will quickly lead to the desired result, and also save you from unnecessary trouble, while the main thing in achieving the effect is the high-quality performance of work.