Any car owner is not insured against the fact that sooner or later the moment will come that even such a reliable and constructively perfect car like the Volkswagen Jetta simply will not start for no apparent reason. What should be the actions of the driver in order to eliminate the malfunction quickly enough and with the least financial expenditure and soon go on the road. We will now look at the main ways to start a VW Jetta engine and the related precautions.

As a rule, there are several determining factors according to which you can decide which method and which means to use to start a VW Jetta engine. If the battery is discharged and your Jetta car does not start in any way, then it can be started from the battery of another car. The main thing is to check the charge level before starting.

Starting the engine from the battery of another car

If the engine does not start in a VW Jetta, then you should use the most popular way of starting through the battery. In order to start the Volkswagen Jetta power unit, you will need the appropriate DIN 72553 cables, with a cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bat least 25 mm 2 for starting a gasoline engine, for a diesel analogue at least 35 mm 2. Then you need to connect to the battery of another car, taking into account the following precautions:

• the discharged battery must be correctly connected to the vehicle's on-board network;
• the vehicles involved in recharging should not touch each other with bodies, since if there is a contact between them, then a current can flow when only positive terminals are connected;
• use only fully serviceable contact wires in work;
• if the power unit does not start operating in normal mode within 10 seconds, then turn off the starter and repeat everything again after a few minutes;
• the starting cables must be connected according to the scheme A - B - C - D;
• turn on the ignition on both vehicles;
• connect the end of the red wire with the "plus" contact on the discharged VW Jetta battery;
• connect the other end of this cable to the "plus" contact supplying the battery;
• in a car without the "Start - Stop" system: connect one end of the black cable to the "minus" terminal of the supplying battery;
• in a car with the "Start - Stop" option: one end of the black auxiliary wire must be connected to the screwed-in front towing eyelet, with a passing "minus" terminal, with the cylinder block or a metal element screwed to the block;
• connect the other end from the black cable to the screwed-in front towing eyelet, with a suitable negative terminal, with the cylinder block or a metal element screwed to the block, which will be located further from the battery;
• lay the wires in such a way as to exclude any contact with moving parts and mechanisms in the engine compartment;
• start the source vehicle engine and leave it to idle;
• start the vehicle engine with a discharged battery and wait 2-3 minutes until the operation of the power unit becomes "even";
• upon completion of the recharging process, it is necessary to disconnect the jump cables according to the diagram: D - C - B - A.

Starting Volkswagen engine by towing

If the Volkswagen Jetta does not start when using the previous method of starting the engine, then there is another way with which you can try to start the car engine - this is towing. In order to get the expected result, you must:

1. include II or III gear;
2. squeeze the clutch;
3. turn on the ignition and "emergency gang";
4. at the moment when both vehicles are in normal driving mode, release the clutch pedal;
5. do not forget to depress the clutch and disengage the gear when starting the engine to avoid collisions with the towing vehicle.

When choosing this method of starting a VW Jetta engine, remember that when towing a car, there is a possibility that unrefined gasoline will penetrate into the catalytic converter and, as a result, it may be damaged. Therefore, it is highly discouraged to use towing to start the engine. It is also worth remembering that this method is contraindicated for VW Jetta cars with automatic transmission, as well as with Keyless Access control of access and engine start, since the electronic steering wheel lock may not be disabled. Thus, thanks to the descriptions and instructions proposed above, you can find a way out even in the most unexpected situation and start the Volkswagen Jetta engine yourself.

6 responses to ““ VW Jetta won't start? ”

In short, it starts well on a cold one, but not on a hot engine. Volkswagen Jetta what is the reason? Thanks in advance.

Definitely a fuel system. Check the pressure in the system, which is given by the fuel pump and flush the injectors. It will not hurt to replace the fuel filter.

drowned out at the store, after 10 minutes it did not start, what could be?

Valery, the same problem! I have a VW Jetta 2012 onwards. Nobody came across?

Hello. I have a Jetta 2012 onwards. (made in Mexico) 105 l / s, mechanics, mileage 67000, took a new one from the salon. Today I was driving in 4th gear, the speed was about 60, a beep was heard and the EPC inscription lit up on the instrument panel. The engine stopped picking up speed quickly (it became dull). He stopped, turned off the engine, started the EPC inscription, but the engine began to work as before. After 7 kilometers, history repeated itself, only the engine remained dull. Tell me what happened and how to fix the problem. The instruction manual says to contact the service center.

DO NOT START AT COLD TEMPERATURE 28-30.

Volkswagen Polo Sedan won't start. The battery is charged. When turned on, a click of the starter and silence are heard. Doesn't even twist. (Vladimir)

Hello Vladimir. In fact, there can be a lot of reasons why the Volkswagen Polo won't start. Now we will try to tell you in general what to do in such cases.

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Why won't the car start?

The malfunction in this case may be:

1. In the work of the oil pump. In practice, such cases are quite common. A malfunction of this element will make it impossible to start the engine.
2. Breakdown of the fuel pump.
3. No spark. This problem is also one of the most common. If there is no spark, it is necessary to check the performance of the spark plugs, as well as high-voltage wires suitable for them. It may also be a loose contact of the starter terminals, which will need to be cleaned and, in general, check the operation of the device itself. A broken starter will never allow the engine to start.
4. It will not be superfluous, as well as the device for the crankshaft position regulator.

The problem is most likely in the starter!

In any case, the most important thing will be to make a complete diagnosis of all systems of your vehicle. The procedure for a complete diagnosis of the on-board computer will identify all existing malfunctions, as a result of which you will know exactly what to do next. To do this, you need a test adapter, a dedicated cable, and a laptop.

1. The first step is to download and install the diagnostic software on your computer.
2. Having done this, you will need to connect the adapter to the laptop and at the same time to the diagnostic connector, which is located in the passenger compartment. In Volkswagen Polo Sedan cars, this connector is located on the left side and slightly below the steering column and is hidden by a plastic cover. Remove the cover and connect the cable to the outlet.
3. Once done, wait a few minutes for the program to synchronize the computer and the connector.
4. Then press "Start" or "Start" and the vehicle diagnostic procedure will start. Thus, the codes of all the faults present in the auto system will be read. You will need to decipher these codes in order to subsequently know what faults and errors they indicate.

Video "Diagnostics of the Volkswagen Polo via Bluetooth"

You can learn more about the wireless diagnostic process below.

Before blaming Volkswagen for the malfunction of your car, you should remember that this is a German brand. This means that a car simply cannot be of poor quality or with manufacturing defects. Most likely, if the car does not start, the driver needs to think about which of the rules for the normal operation of the vehicle he violated or simply did not consider it necessary to follow. Unfortunately, even Volkswagen, with its unsurpassed German quality and high-tech performance, can fail.

Possible reasons

In most cases, when the owner of a German car complains that it won't start, the reason may be a battery failure. As soon as he turns off, all the electrical equipment of the machine turns off after him. Turning off the AK does not mean that it is completely unusable. You may just need to clean the terminal or put it in place by slightly tightening it. However, if the starter is sluggish after another attempt to start the engine, experts may advise you to recharge the battery. In any case, three simple tips should be followed as a preventive measure:

• you should not overdo it in installing additional sources of energy consumption in the car;
• it is necessary to check the insulation of the terminals from time to time in order to identify its damage;
• it is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of all existing contacts and terminals, as well as their dryness.

In this case, the battery will not cause the starter to idle. But not only the battery can cause a stalling engine. Usually, car service technicians always try to carry out additional diagnostics of the following systems that affect the normal operation of the engine:

• starting system;
• nutrition;
• ignition.

In the starting system, close attention is paid to the condition of the starter. It happens that its contacts have either undergone an oxidation process or become carbonized. Bendix gears may become unusable. You should also not forget about such auxiliary nodes as:

• brushes;
• flywheel teeth;
• retractor relay.

Wear on each of these parts can prevent the starting system from firing and the engine not starting. If the cause of the malfunction lies in the power system, then you should take time to check the fuel pressure. Do not skip checking the total voltage in the network. And car service workers can also advise to investigate the integrity of the camshaft tape and the operating condition of the ECU.

How to quickly fix the problem

Drivers who are stuck at a roadside tavern or somewhere on the side of the forest are in an unequal position. Because in the tavern you can recharge the battery or call the emergency team from the nearest car service. But in the forest, all this is much more difficult to do. Especially when the mobile connection doesn't work. What can be done in this case? First, always have a spare battery with you in the trunk for long journeys in the desert. Secondly, try to stop a passing car and ask to be towed to the nearest settlement or call a tug.

When the cause lies in a malfunctioning starter motor and there are several people in the car, they may try to push the car to start the engine. Unfortunately, this method is not effective for all modern cars.

When examining the ignition system, do not neglect thick rubber gloves. Otherwise, electric shock is possible. After checking the high-voltage wires for damage and shrinkage strength, it is necessary to make sure that there is a spark in the spark plugs. If the spark never comes up, it’s bad. Replacement of the entire coil or individual wires will be required. If you have a weak spark, you can get off with a simple replacement of the spark plugs. In any case, such manipulations are best done in a car service. Therefore, the very first emergency measure should be to call a tug and repairmen. Going on a long trip, the driver must first find out the availability of service stations along the entire route.

If there is no result

Of course, sometimes all you need to do is clean the throttle to fix an engine problem. As a rule, the use of low-quality fuel causes frequent contamination. By removing them, you can return the engine to working condition. Along the way, you should also clean out the spiral of the sensitive element. Otherwise, the sensor will give incorrect readings, which also leads to engine malfunction.

But in the absence of any visible result from the manipulations carried out, a high-quality repair and complete replacement, for example, of the idle speed regulator or other important unit in the car, may be necessary. Then, first of all, you need to contact specialized car service stations.

The successful start of a car engine depends on a number of factors. Proper operation of all components of the starter and ignition lock, a charged battery is a prerequisite.

The engine will start if there is fuel in the cylinders mixed with air in a strict proportion. In addition, ignition from a spark must occur at the right stroke of the engine.

Violation of the conditions of functioning

When the Volkswagen Passat does not start, regardless of the model range, it means that the operation of one or more nodes responsible for starting the internal combustion engine is disrupted. To find the exact cause, you need to consistently check the performance of all elements. It is recommended to start diagnostics with the most probable details, which is determined by the primary symptoms and operating conditions.

terms of Use

The car will not start in cold weather for a number of reasons. The most common breakdowns in Volkswagen Passat cars of the B3 and B4 generation:

• low battery charge - to eliminate it, it is enough to charge the battery, take a charged one or "light" it from another car;
• incorrect readings of the coolant and air temperature sensors - replace the sensors with working ones to eliminate them;
• thickening of engine oil - carry out a complete oil change with the required temperature characteristics.

These reasons are typical for the next generations of the Passat. The effect of low temperature can be eliminated by driving the car into a heated room. If in the heat the problem with starting has not recurred - the most probable breakdowns are in the list above.

Starter / ignition unit malfunctions

Turning the ignition key to the extreme position starts the ICE starter. If this does not happen and the engine does not start, the reason may be as follows:

• discharged battery;
• faulty ignition switch, contact group;
• problems with the power supply of the starter (constant + 12V comes to it);
• the solenoid relay does not work and does not supply power to the starter windings;
• burnt out starter.

In new Volkswagen models, starting with Passat B5 and further B6, B7, the Starter will not twist in case of problems with the ELV unit (steering column lock). This malfunction will be signaled by the inscription "steering wheel lock defective" or a yellow or red steering wheel icon on the instrument panel.

Checking the fuel system

During the start of the Passat internal combustion engine, the starter turns the crankshaft, but the engine does not start. The cause may be a problem with the fuel supply:

• Fuel pump not powered - blown fuse, relay, or wiring problem. Sometimes, non-standard anti-theft equipment can block the pump operation.
• There is no fuel in the tank. The gauge on the instrument panel is faulty and indicates the presence of fuel, but in fact the tank is empty.
• The fuel line is damaged.
• The fuel filter is dirty. In frost, moisture trapped in the filter element can freeze and impede the pumping of fuel.
• Defective injectors or control unit. When checking, remember that the injectors are controlled by the negative wire.

If, after 2-4 attempts, you still manage to start the engine, the possible cause is the fuel pressure regulator. After a while, the required pressure is created in the fuel rail and the engine starts. A non-working valve must be replaced with a new one.

When operating a car in the winter, many owners of the Passat B3 with single injection, are faced with problems when starting the internal combustion engine "to cold". The reason is in the design features of this unit. Blow-by gases pass through it and over time condensate accumulates, which freezes and prevents the air supply flap from opening.

Volkswagen Passat B7 vehicles with an FSI engine (with direct fuel injection) have a tendency to damage the fuel pump control unit. The task of this unit is to ensure the supply of fuel and maintain the pressure in the line that comes to the injection pump. This unit is located under the rear seat and can be damaged even on low-mileage vehicles. Visually, the unit may have traces of thermal deformation - which is the result of pump overheating due to a low fuel level in the tank. A defective pump unit must be replaced.

Ignition system, candles

The absence of an ignition spark at the right time will prevent the engine from starting. Items that need to be checked for troubleshooting:

• Passat B3 and B4 - distributor, high-voltage wires, spark plugs;
• Passat B5, B6, B7 - ignition coils, candles, ECU;
• in any gasoline engine - a crankshaft position sensor, it is responsible for the ignition moment.

If the distributor is working properly, you need to take a working spark plug, connect the high-voltage wire and put the candle with a thread on the negative contact of the car.

On Volkswagen vehicles with a contactless ignition system, check the coils on each cylinder. After visual inspection for blisters and cracks, insert a working spark plug into the coil tip and thread it onto a source with good mass.

With the spark plugs secured, turn the key to the start position and check for a spark. The absence of a spark indicates a possible failure of the high-voltage wire, ignition coil or crankshaft position sensor. Defective parts must be replaced.

Features of starting a diesel engine

For Volkswagen Passat of any model range, diesel internal combustion engines were installed, which are marked TDI (TDI). In addition to the problems common with gasoline engines, the diesel engine has its own characteristics:

• a more powerful battery is needed;
• correct operation of the pre-glow plugs;
• at low temperatures, it is necessary to use a winter diesel fuel;
• at temperatures below -20, it is recommended to use an antigel fuel additive.

Diesel engines are more sensitive to a decrease in compression in cylinders - it is almost impossible to start an internal combustion engine with low compression, since the mixture ignites during compression.

Modern diesel internal combustion engines, for example the popular 2.0 TDI engine with the letter designation BMR, with direct injection, over time have problems with starting due to a breakdown of the injector pump. To diagnose this unit, you need special equipment and an experienced specialist.

Breakdowns specific to certain models

A popular power unit installed on the Passat in the back of B5, B6 is the 1.8-liter AEB turbo engine. If this internal combustion engine does not start well "hot" - the probable cause is faulty ignition coils. Over time, the valve timing cover begins to leak and the engine oil enters the spark plug wells, which eventually puts the ignition coil out of action.

For Passat B5 cars, produced in 2000, in severe frosts (below -20), after starting, the engine stalls after a while. After the coolant warms up to 40-50 degrees, the problem goes away. The likely reason for this behavior is an unadapted throttle valve.

B3 trade winds with mono injection often experience problems when starting due to air leaks after the damper in front of the manifold or on the vacuum hose that goes to the brake booster. To eliminate it, it is necessary to replace the gasket or hose.

On new models in the B7 body, the engine control unit will not allow the engine to start when the engine oil level is low. In this case, a signal in the form of an oil can lights up on the instrument panel.

Your technical equipment must be impeccable - after all, the time you have is the same money that we hope you also have. Do not lose either one or the other. If you know where a missing tie or an iron-burned trouser leg can disrupt a business meeting, then what can we say about a car that does not want to start an hour before the scheduled negotiations.

In the early morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans (a child - to school, a wife - to a hairdresser, and he himself - to forge a labor penny), you jump into the car, "the key to start" and ... What the hell ... Once again. More ... Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is ruined from the start. Plans and mood - down the drain.

Take it easy. There is no need to rush under the hood in an English suit and, smearing an oily mud with a tie, try to make a diagnosis. Most likely, it won't cure in 5 minutes. Take another car, and leave the treatment of a sick friend until the evening. And it is better to entrust it to doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have an expensive car, and you are not a specialist. It will be cheaper this way. Well, if your friend is well known to you and you consider yourself a healer - well, try it yourself, if you are not too lazy to get dirty or there is no other way out.

The diagnosis should be started calmly.

Examine the symptoms mentally. First, is the starter turning? And if so, how cheerful? You already know the answer - remember what happened when you first tried to start the car. If you don't remember, try again.

If the starter does not turn at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice given above: "Take another car .."), or trouble with the battery - disconnected or sat down. Only in rare models, the starter power circuit can be protected by a fuse - a kind of 300 amp - it is easy to find it, especially if you know in advance where it is. If the battery is to blame, then, as a rule, all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case is that one of the terminals has fallen off or got dirty, but the battery is in order. Tighten the fasteners of the terminals on it and on the starter (if any). If it turns out that the battery is completely empty (you forgot to turn off the headlights for the night), you can still leave. But with outside help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start from a push, from a slide or from a tug. Do not try to get around the pitfalls: a car with an automatic transmission or electronic fuel injection (if there is an electric fuel pump) cannot be started by these methods. We'll have to light a cigarette at the neighbor's. However, in some machines this can lead to damage to the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If you twist the starter, but sluggishly (it happens in the summer, in the winter it is a subject of a separate conversation), most likely, the battery is almost completely discharged. This will be seen by weak headlights or weak signal. In this case, the above options for outside help come into play.

If the starter turns briskly, and the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, feel free to exclude everything related to the battery from further reflections. Blame the ignition or fuel supply system, you can't go wrong. When diagnosing and treating each of them, a systematic approach is required. Better to start with the ignition - there are more problems there. Especially in wet weather.

A spark will ignite ...

So, we must look for a spark. Your car may be equipped with a classic (simplest) contact ignition system, a rather complex electronic contactless, or some combination. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part one is low-voltage (breaker contacts in a classical system or a special sensor in an electronic one, plus a box with electronic filling that forms a spark). Part two - a step-up transformer, called the ignition coil in the world. Part three is high-voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires through which high-voltage current is supplied to the candles). And naturally, the candles themselves. The inspection of all this economy must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.

Stage one. High-voltage part of the system. Check if there is a spark on the center wire - this is the one that connects the coil to the distributor. The wire tip must be removed from the distributor cover, brought closer to any part that has good contact with the vehicle ground (whether it is painted or not, it does not matter), and secured so that a gap of 5–7 mm remains between the tip and the selected part.

If the ignition of your car is electronic, the wire must be fastened especially securely - if it falls to the ground, the electronics will instantly order to live a long time. For the same reason, you cannot strike a wire over the body. We also do not recommend holding it with your hand, not even with your own - it will shock you great.

Stage two. Crank the engine with a starter. While doing this, watch what happens at the tip of the wire. There are two possibilities. More favorable - there is a spark. Powerful with a loud click. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.

The first step is to remove the distributor cover. It can be damp and dirty under it. On such a "conductor" the spark willingly slips anywhere, just not where it needs to be. Wipe up, scrub and dry. At the same time, it is harmless to clean the distributor contacts, for example, with a fine sandpaper. Examine the so-called "slider". If you find a dark trace of electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cover, the part will have to be changed.

Check the wires going from the distributor to the candles in the most biased way. The wires and their ends must be dry and clean. If, in your opinion, everything is in order with them, you can put the cover back in place, restore the connections and try to start the engine. If the malfunction was hidden under the cover, the engine will start or, in the worst case, at least start to sneeze. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you have to turn out, clean and dry the candles - in your attempts to start the engine, you filled them with gasoline. If the engine doesn't even sneeze, the spark plugs will still need to be removed, cleaned, and inspected. Easier if you have a spare kit.

If you have already gotten to the stage of turning out the spark plugs, you can quite effectively (and effectively) check the entire ignition system as a whole. After connecting high-voltage wires to the twisted candles, collect the candles in a bundle, like carrots, and wrap the bare soft wire right along their threaded part. Make sure the wire is in contact with each spark plug but not touching the center electrodes. Connect the free end of the wire to ground. Having placed a bunch of candles in a place convenient for observation from the passenger compartment, turn the engine with a starter. At the same time, cheerful sparks should slip between the electrodes of the candles in turn (in accordance with the order of operation of the cylinders). If so, then the entire ignition system is in order. In this case, the sound of the engine will be very unusual - do not be alarmed, because it is spinning with the candles turned out. Do not twist for a long time. It is worse if at the second stage of the check there is another option: there is no spark between the central wire and the "body". So, it's not about high-voltage circuits. Further searches will be more difficult, evaluate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if voltage is supplied to the ignition coil. This is easy to do with a tester, and if not, you can use the engine compartment light. True, you need a couple of wires to connect it to the coil. In a classic ignition system, you need to connect a light bulb between ground and the input of the primary winding.

At the third stage, as usual, two options are also possible: the voltage is either supplied to the coil or not. If it is supplied, the coil is to blame - a breakdown or a short circuit, which, however, happens extremely rarely. The coil will have to be changed. Poor contact is more common in attaching the wires to the coil. Or the same wet mud, through which the spark flows away to no one knows where. Sometimes the coil is polished to a shine, but there is an invisible very narrow strip of dirt under it - a good conductor.

If at the third stage you made sure that the voltage is not supplied to the coil, the electronics or contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. You cannot cope with electronics (switch and, less often, a sensor in the valve housing) - special equipment is needed to diagnose them. You can only pull the sensor connector on the distributor housing - it suddenly helps. If you have a car with a classic contact ignition system, you can look further.

Remove the cover from the distributor and inspect the breaker contacts - they can oxidize, especially if the machine has been stationary for some time. Contacts should be carefully cleaned with a thin sandpaper or a special file.

Tug the cleaned contacts so that they close and open. The voltage across them is only 12 volts, so you can tug without fear. If the cleaning does not help and the voltage is still not applied to the coil, we again advise you to stop trying to resuscitate the car for a while, as further difficulties will begin.

If voltage appears (when the contacts are tugged, the light blinks), restore everything that has been loosened and disassembled, start the car and, perhaps, will still have time for its business. If it doesn't start, but even sneezes, turn out the candles and ...

Don't press to the floor - it won't help

It may also happen that the entire ignition system was checked, everything is in order in it, and the engine, even if you crack, still will not start. This means that there are problems with another of the systems mentioned earlier - the power supply system, that is, the supply of fuel to the engine.

If you have a car with fuel injection (injection system), do not touch it (the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was she who broke down: there is a spark, the fuel is suitable - it means that she is, darling. Treatment only in a hospital. At home and at handicraftsmen, it is useless and even harmful to repair it.

In a conventional carburetor engine, the fuel system is simpler - a tank, a gas pump, a set of pipes and a carburetor. Here you can dig deeper yourself. The first step is to make sure that the gas is going to the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and press the manual fuel priming lever. If a rather powerful jet of gasoline is hammered, everything is fine, it's time to move on to the carburetor. It so happens that gasoline is supplied to the carburetor regularly, but for some reason it does not enter it. If you have time and desire, remove the air filter, and then ask someone to sharply press the accelerator pedal. Or, you can pull the throttle cable sharply yourself. At the same time, look into the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you will not see anything): if a trickle of gasoline does not appear in the first diffuser, it means that it is not in the float chamber. It is not there because the valve needle is stuck or (it happens not very often) the fuel filter in the carburetor is completely clogged - it is located in front of the float chamber. Or the jets are clogged. The filter is purged by blowing, however, if you do not have the necessary skills, it is better not to mess with the carburetor innards at all, to deal with a jammed needle valve, clogged nozzles and other subtleties - let the specialists do it.

If there is a trickle in the diffuser, pay attention to the carburetor starting device - it often fails. On foreign cars, since about the 70s, automatic air damper control has been used. The device without your participation, depending on the engine temperature, closes or opens the damper as needed, enriching the mixture when the engine is started. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulation of the air damper, but there are a lot of options and there is no universal advice. Before starting the manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. The air filter may not be installed yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and with God (after returning the air filter to its place) .. If, when checking the fuel supply by the gasoline pump, it turns out that the gasoline does not come from the hose or the trickle is very thin, the cause must be looked for in clogged pipelines, a fine fuel filter or the gas tank itself - you can easily demonstrate your skill by pumping the gas line with a tire pump in the direction opposite to the movement of gasoline, that is, from the carburetor to the tank. A booming, gurgling sound should be heard in the tank.

With a fine fuel filter, everything is simple. Although on almost all modern models it is made in a transparent case, the degree of its contamination cannot be visually determined. A dirty filter will allow the engine to start, but will not allow it to drive properly. If it is completely clogged, you will not start the engine. The most effective check: remove the filter and, if there is no new one, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example ballpoint pen casings, better transparent - you can see how the gasoline flows. Do not try to clean the filter - the sealed (or sealed) housing cannot be disassembled.

If you come to the conclusion that your car does not have a fuel pump, and there is no spare at hand - "Take another car ...".

We left the rare, but most unpleasant diagnosis for last. If the starter is working properly, you've already wasted a lot of time and made sure that the ignition and power are in good order, but the car still won't start - it's worth inspecting the camshaft drive belt. However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The difficulty is that you have to remove or at least partially bend the upper part of the plastic cover that covers the belt. Perhaps the teeth of the belt were cut off - belts, like people, lose teeth from old age. In this case, the camshaft will not rotate and the engine will not run. It is clear that the toothless belt requires replacement (for those who have a car with a camshaft chain drive, this trouble does not threaten). The belt replacement procedure is not difficult, but troublesome. Carried out in a hospital. It's good if everything is limited to replacing only the belt, and not bent valves or the entire block head - this also happens.

About the causes of atherosclerosis

Let's try to explain why the car's circulatory system is sometimes affected by "atherosclerosis". Gasoline is the blood of the car. And the blood must be clean and run through clean vessels. And the fact that "cholesterol" accumulates in blood vessels in excess of the permissible measure, as a rule, is our own fault. How often do you use a canister to refill the gasoline tank? If so, the chances of clogging the gas line and filters increase, especially if your funnel is without a mesh. The canister usually accumulates debris, rust, sand, and if the canister is painted inside, then paint particles. It is clear that the smaller the amount of intermediate containers is used on the path of gasoline from the dispenser to the tank, the better. Oddly enough, even at the most seedy gas station, there is less dirt in the tanks in the specific ratio than in the "home" canister. The scourge of our gas stations is not so much dirt as water. But here we are powerless. In our memory, only one swindler got burned on diluting gasoline, and even then not with water, but with donkey urine, and not in life, but in the movies (see "Gentlemen of Fortune"). So you have to put up. However, in order not to add water to domestic diluted gasoline with your own hands, try to always keep the tank full. Condensation accumulates in an incomplete tank, especially in the off-season, when sudden temperature changes occur.

Less freeloaders

It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since it is maintenance-free on most modern cars, it makes no sense to include operating instructions here. Let's give just a few additional tips on how to keep the battery viable for longer. Do not get carried away by stuffing your car with additional energy consumers. The fact that a certain reserve is provided in the energy balance of the car, allowing two or three "freeloaders" to connect, does not mean that you can hang six horns and ten fog lights on the car - have a sense of proportion. In addition, if you connect unintended tweets yourself, there is a high probability of damage to the insulation. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified, surgical intervention in the wiring of a car sooner or later makes itself felt. Trouble.

If your battery is running low, try not to dull your engine during countless stops in the city. Nothing rapes a battery like frequent use of the starter.

And the last (this applies not only to the battery, but to all electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire ends must be dry and clean and fit well to the "destination". Dirty, oily insulation sooner or later breaks through, and burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) reason for the failure of the ignition system. Or a fire.

We can stop here. Meticulous car enthusiasts have undoubtedly noticed some superficiality in our advice. We admit that we deliberately do not want to go deep into the jungle. In order not to provoke you to self-medication - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain in the lower abdomen on the right does not mean that you yourself have to remove your appendix. But you must accurately describe the symptoms of appendicitis to the doctor. It helps the treatment very much