Ignition key from Skoda Yeti Outdoor.

An extremely rare case, but still there is a precedent, so it is worth considering the procedure for dealing with such a problem.

Two options for the same situation

The first is that when you try to start the car, the "key" icon lights up on the screen and the engine stalls. But after several attempts it still starts up and for a while no problems arise, until the next time.

Second the option is even worse - the "key" on the display also lights up, but after that it is already impossible to start the car from any time. Neither removing the terminal nor trying to start the car with a second key helps.

It should be said right away that such rare problems occur, as a rule, during the warranty period of car maintenance, in the first 5-10 thousand car mileage. That is, you will not have to pay for repairs. It's a good news.

But there is also a bad one. Firstly, if your Skoda Yeti starts up after the nth attempt, then I advise you to immediately go to the service. Because the next time the car may no longer work and you will have to get to the service already on a tow truck.

Secondly, the cause of this problem is in the immobilizer unit, which will need to be replaced. And the order of the cylinder of the ignition lock with the immobilizer unit will most likely be in the Czech Republic, so the replacement time can stretch for a month. This is the biggest inconvenience in this situation.

The only thing that can be advised in this situation - do not forget to demand replacement car during the repair of your Skoda Yeti. After all, not all families have more than one car, and being without a car for a month is very inconvenient.

And again, very few owners of a Czech SUV faced such a problem.

Children's diseases of the car Skoda Yeti (Skoda Yeti) with a 1.2 liter engine, turbo, TSI

This car has become a fairly frequent guest here ...

From the name of the car it is clear and immediately attracts attention: "Motor volume of 1.2 liters." And without the "turbo" and the TSI system, it would be rather difficult for this motor to carry such a body: in the photo, the height of work on the elimination of an extreme malfunction during the period of service in our service center.

But I'll start from the very beginning: first the sound of the engine was heard, then this Skoda appeared from around the corner. The sound made it clear: "Something is wrong with the engine" ... I looked into the salon, saw a burning oil pressure light and told the client:

You first need to contact the mechanics, a burning oil lamp is for them.

The car was redirected to the locksmith's post, where our specialists, after opening the oil pan, determined the malfunction: "the oil receiver is clogged." Moreover, it is not clogged with some kind of garbage, but “with something resembling tar,” as Sergei, a plumber post specialist, said.

But the owner was surprised and said that he was and is undergoing maintenance regularly, as it should be: once every fifteen thousand kilometers.

After the elimination of this malfunction, the engine was started, they gave it a little work and the engine began to come to life, the sound of its operation became much softer, the light on the instrument panel did not light up anymore.

The locksmith's post was just the beginning. Sergey saw that the oil pressure light on the dashboard went out, but others lit up: "directional stability" and "check the engine". And again, the car moves to its original place, to the post of automobile diagnostics and repair, that is, to us. For diagnostics, the original scanner is used, which shows the following error:

From the practice of working with such motors, I know that one of the reasons for the appearance of this error may be an elementary contamination sensors. However, cleaning them thoroughly did not help.

While the car was idling (it takes some time to drive out all the excess oil from the intercooler - it is built into the intake manifold and is liquid-cooled), continued to think and analyze the situation. Then he turned off the engine and began to look for information in more detail. All reference books, service manuals, manuals and other sources of technical information on the topic of the question said that “we need to check this and that, measure the voltage there ... check if there is a leakage” ... however, everything was checked and found no deviations. I thought: "What else can affect this malfunction?"

Finally I got to the throttle valve assembly, everything looked clean there, but for some reason I really wanted to look there - I just wanted to see ... Which was done.

Indeed, outwardly everything was clean and did not arouse any suspicion:

But, despite the seeming cleanliness - I did not believe this cleanliness, I was reinsured and the throttle valve was carefully cleaned (you can read how to clean it correctly in the articles of Legion-Avtodat and on the Legion-Avtodat forum: http://autodata.ru/article/ , http://forum.autodata.ru/index.php ).

After that, with some impatience, he started the engine and carried out the adaptation of the throttle valve. What it turned out: there were no motor errors after cleaning the throttle valve, and the pressure error disappeared after adaptation.

Warming up, the motor began to enter the operating mode. Here's what I thought: “The suspicions turned out to be justified: the turbine on this engine is interesting, it is like a pump for the ventilation system of crankcase gases, the branch pipe of the crankcase gas system has an outlet directly before the air intake of the turbine ... and in all likelihood, due to the installation of a non-original air filter or a certain degree of its contamination , the turbine sucks in an excessive amount of oil vapor into the intake manifold, and the oil, burning, thereby cokes the engine. "

The air filter was replaced with the original one, and the client was advised to change it every ten thousand kilometers and to do chemical cleaning of the injectors as prevention of engine coking. After some time, the car was again with us for checking, we looked at it and made sure that after the operations we carried out, the throttle valve, intake manifold were clean, without traces of oil contamination.

The problem with the motor and errors was resolved, but after a while this car again found itself at the gates of our box, but this time with other troubles for the client: the door opening / closing indication stopped working. And everything happened quite cleverly: if the driver's door is opened halfway, the indication shows this, and as soon as the door is brought to full opening - that's it, the indication shows that the door is closed. Moreover, at this moment, the indication on the rear door also did not work.

The car of 2010, as they say about such - "advanced", and most of the faults can be viewed using the original scanner. I looked. It turned out that when the doors were fully opened, there was no communication with the driver's door control unit, just as there was no communication with the rear left door unit. The scheme is as follows: control is via the CAN bus, only power supply and CAN itself are suitable. There are few wires. Control units are located in each door. I look further: when the door is closed, the connection is restored. I already had experience of such work, so I immediately looked into the wiring harness leading to the door, lifting up the rubber casing for this. And here it is! ... (pictured below).

The work, at first glance, is simple, nothing complicated! However, take a closer look at the photo - it was necessary to disassemble a lot in order to pull the injured harness out of the door to a sufficient length for convenient operation and high-quality repair.

He took off the protective cover and determined the place of the malfunction: at the point of bend (break), the wires were broken off. Everything is correct: when closing - opening the door, the contacts were connected and then disconnected, thereby the control unit determined the error, and the power wires were broken off. This could not lead to anything good in the future, it is good if the fuse just closes and burns out. And if the fuse is fake, the one "Chinese" that does not burn out, but "burns with a blue flame"? Here and not far from the fire.

We take out the wires a little and begin to build them up. I want to draw your attention: I carry out such extensions and connections only with a silicone acoustic wire. I take the junction as far as possible from the point of the previous junction so that there is no repetition. Why such a wire - "acoustic". They are much nicer, softer and more flexible, more reliable with good (minimum) resistance (oxygen-free copper is used in good wires).

Two words about why in recent years there are more and more calls to a car service for electrical connections. Don't laugh, but my personal opinion: "Greens are to blame for everything and their sometimes unreasonable demands on the environment." German cars and some others using the same technologies suffer from brittle wires, but Japanese-made cars with these problems are handled less often. I think that it was in accordance with the requirements of "green" environmentalists that such technologies began to be used, because of which electric automobile wires began to serve a shorter period. However, this also plays into the hands of manufacturers: the sooner the car stops working, the more people will buy new cars. "Environmental electrical wires are more brittle and less reliable."

All connections must be made with soldering:

I did not manage to put the rubber casing on the outside of the door, I had to unscrew the window regulator and only after I pushed it a little inside, I was able to stick my hand in and push the casing from the inside.

Finally, I can say: this car is only three years old, and it has already started such serious problems. It must be assumed that very soon similar cars with similar malfunctions will flow into car services.

Happy repairs to everyone!

D.A. Gorshkov
© Legion-Avtodata

Gorshkov Dmitry Alexandrovich (8 926 171 75 95), Elektrostal, Mira ave. 27-a, building of the auto technical center

432 ..

Skoda Yeti 1.2 TSI / Skoda Yeti, 5dv crossover, 105 hp, 7 automatic transmission, 2013 - the starter turns, but the engine does not start

Skoda Yeti 1.2 TSI 5dv. crossover, 105 HP, 7АКПП, 2013 - the starter turns, but the engine does not start

Starter cranking but engine won't start

Causes

There can be quite a few reasons for this behavior of the car. The main ones are listed below. We've divided them into two categories. First, let's take a look at those that any beginner can handle:

Human factor:
You forgot to turn off the anti-theft device, which blocks, for example, only the fuel pump.
Clogged exhaust pipe. Kind people put a rag or a potato in it, or maybe you just drove into a snowdrift - there are many options. The exhaust pipe must be free.

All of the above, in general, is not a breakdown, and it can be solved in no time. And now let's look at the reasons associated with a technical malfunction:
If the starter turns very slowly, then the reason may be thickened oil in the engine in the cold. Or maybe a discharged battery after a long stay or its strongly oxidized terminals. In this case, the voltage of the on-board network can sink so that the engine control unit refuses to work. Well, everything is clear here: the oil should be filled according to the season, the battery should be charged or replaced.
Something is frozen - water in the gas line, diesel fuel in the tank or filter. Look for a warm box!
Defective fuel pump. This is easy to verify, unless you are trying to start a car near a busy and noisy highway. If it is quiet around, then a sensitive ear is able to catch the absence of the characteristic buzzing of the fuel pump during the operation of the starter. At best, poor contact in the circuit is to blame; at worst, you will have to replace the pump.
The flywheel crown turns. This sometimes happened on cars of previous years of production, up to the VAZ-2109. The Bendix can be heard grappling with the crown, and the crown screeches on the flywheel. Flywheel replacement is coming.

Starter does not engage with crown... Cause: wear of parts, chipped teeth, etc. When trying to start, teeth grinding is heard. Get ready to replace the ring or flywheel.

Bendix stuck... Either its drive flew, or the bendix itself - it doesn't matter. It is heard that the starter motor is rotating at high revs, but there are no more attempts to crank the engine. Get ready to repair or replace the starter itself.

Failure of the ignition system in gasoline cars... We check everything - candles, coils, wiring, etc.
Glow plugs do not work on a diesel car. The problem may be in the control unit as well as in the power relay. The candles themselves should also be checked - you will have to tinker with this.

Timing belt scattered to shreds... It is easy to feel: the starter has become easy to twist. If you are lucky (the pistons did not meet the valves), it is enough to replace the belt, if not, then half the motor.

The timing belt jumped a few teeth, disrupting the correct valve timing. Again, at best, you will need to put the belt back in place, but at worst, expensive repairs await you.
Increased resistance to crankshaft rotation: scuffing on shafts, bearing shells, parts of the cylinder-piston group, deformation of the shafts. Check if the engine can be cranked when pushing the vehicle with the highest gear engaged in the manual transmission. With an automatic machine, you will have to try to crank the engine by the bolt of the accessory drive pulley. If the engine can be cranked relatively easily, then the search for the cause will need to continue.

Seized generator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor... A defective unit prevents the engine from turning. To check, you can first see if the belt is straining too much when you try to crank the engine. If the suspicions are confirmed, then you can remove the accessory drive belt and try to drive to the service station on your own. Of course, this will only work on cars where the coolant pump rotates the timing belt. With a non-working pump, without circulation of coolant, even a cold engine will quickly boil.
They tried to steal your car at night, but something went wrong. As a result, the attackers dug, broke something and disappeared in disgrace. Here, without diagnostics at the service station, the problem cannot be solved.

What to do

If the starter turns, and the engine does not start, first of all, you should check the power system and the ignition system.
Please note that all of these checks should only be performed when the starter turns smoothly, without jerking. Otherwise (jerks when the starter is running or clicks instead of the usual buzzing), the problem should be looked for, first of all, in the starter itself.

The fuel system check should be performed in sequence - from the fuel pump to the injector (carburetor):

1. If you have an injector, then when the ignition is turned on, the buzzing of an electric fuel pump should be heard in the passenger compartment. If there is no buzzing, then either the gasoline pump motor has burned out, or there is no voltage on it. Therefore, it is necessary to check the fuel pump itself, as well as its fuse.

2. With carburetor cars, everything is a little more complicated: the gas pump is driven by the camshaft, so to check it will have to remove the end of the hose from the carburetor inlet or the gas pump outlet. If you swing the manual pumping lever of the fuel pump several times, gasoline should come from the fitting or hose.

3. To check for the presence of gasoline in the injector rail, press the valve of the connection for connecting the pump: gasoline should go from there.

4. Be sure to check if the fuel filter is clogged. Perhaps the engine simply doesn't have enough fuel, so it won't start.

5. Another reason why the starter turns and the car won't start is a clogged throttle.

After completing all the above steps, you can try to start the car again. If the starter is still turning, but the car does not start, then you need to proceed to checking the ignition system.

1. First you need to unscrew the candle and check for a spark on it. To do this, put a high-voltage wire on the switched off candle, touch the metal part of the engine with the skirt of the candle and turn the engine with the starter (you will need an assistant for this). If there is a spark, then the candle is working.

2. If there is no spark in the injection vehicle, then the problem is in the ignition module.

3. If there is no spark in the carburetor engine, then the ignition coil should be checked. Pull out the center wire from the distributor cover, place it at the end 5 mm from the metal part of the engine (without touching) and ask the assistant to crank the engine with a starter. If there is no spark, the coil is faulty.

4. If there is a spark and the ignition coil is in good order, remove the distributor cover and see if there are any defects under it (carbon deposits, cracks, etc.).

There are times when all these checks are not enough, and the car owner has to carry out more in-depth checks to identify the reason that the starter turns and the engine does not start. Among the reasons why this can be, there are also:

1. Blown fuse. This is not common, but it is still worth checking the integrity of the fuses in the blocks.

2. Corrosion on any of the electrical parts.

3. Condensation under the hood. There were times when the car did not start precisely because of the excessive moisture under the hood.

Specifications

Specifications Skoda Yeti 1.2 TSI / Skoda Yeti in the back of 5 doors. crossover with 105 hp engine, 7 automatic transmissions produced since 2013

Your technical equipment must be impeccable - after all, the time you have is the same money that we hope you also have. Do not lose either one or the other. If you know where a missing tie or an iron-burned trouser leg can disrupt a business meeting, then what can we say about a car that does not want to start an hour before the scheduled negotiations.

In the early morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans (a child - to school, a wife - to a hairdresser, and he himself - to forge a labor penny), you jump into the car, "the key to start" and ... What the hell ... Once again. More ... Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is ruined from the start. Plans and mood - down the drain.

Take it easy. No need to rush under the hood in an English suit and, smearing an oily mud with a tie, try to diagnose. Most likely, it won't cure in 5 minutes. Take another car, and leave the treatment of a sick friend until the evening. And it is better to entrust it to doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have an expensive car and you are not a specialist. It will be cheaper this way. Well, if your friend is well known to you and you consider yourself a healer - well, try it yourself, if you are not too lazy to get dirty or there is no other way out.

The diagnosis should be proceeded calmly.

Examine the symptoms mentally. First, is the starter turning? And if so, how cheerful? You already know the answer - remember what happened when you first tried to start the car. If you don't remember, try again.

If the starter does not turn at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice given above: "Take another car ..."), or trouble with the battery - disconnected or sat down. Only in rare models, the starter power circuit can be protected by a fuse - a kind of 300 ampere - it is easy to find, especially if you know in advance where it is. If the battery is to blame, then, as a rule, all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case is that one of the terminals has fallen off or got dirty, but the battery is in order. Tighten the terminal fixings on it and on the starter (if any). If it turns out that the battery is completely empty (you forgot to turn off the headlights for the night), you can still leave. But with outside help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start from a push, from a slide or from a tug. Do not try to get around the pitfalls: a car with an automatic transmission or electronic fuel injection (if there is an electric gas pump) cannot be started by these methods. We'll have to light a cigarette at the neighbor's. However, in some machines this can lead to damage to the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If you twist the starter, but sluggishly (it happens in the summer, in the winter it is a subject of a separate conversation), most likely, the battery is almost completely discharged. This will be seen by the weak headlights or weak signal. In this case, the above options for outside help come into play.

If the starter turns briskly, and the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, feel free to exclude everything related to the battery from further reflections. Foam on the ignition or fuel supply system, you can't go wrong. When diagnosing and treating each of them, a systematic approach is required. Better to start with the ignition - there are more problems there. Especially in wet weather.

A spark will ignite ...

So, we must look for a spark. Your car may be equipped with a classic (simplest) contact ignition system, a rather complex electronic contactless, or some combination. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part one is low-voltage (breaker contacts in a classical system or a special sensor in an electronic one, plus a box with electronic filling that forms a spark). Part two - a step-up transformer, called the ignition coil in the world. Part three is high-voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires through which high-voltage current is supplied to the candles). And naturally, the candles themselves. The inspection of all this economy must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.

Stage one... High-voltage part of the system. Check if there is a spark on the center wire - this is the one that connects the coil to the distributor. The wire tip must be removed from the distributor cover, brought closer to any part that has good contact with the vehicle ground (whether it is painted or not, it does not matter), and secured so that a gap of 5-7 mm remains between the tip and the selected part.

If the ignition of your car is electronic, the wire must be fastened especially securely - if it falls to the ground, the electronics will instantly order to live a long time. For the same reason, you cannot strike a wire over the body. We also do not recommend holding it with your hand, not even with your own - it will shock you great.

Stage two. Crank the engine with a starter. While doing this, watch what happens at the tip of the wire. There are two possibilities. More favorable - there is a spark. Powerful with a loud click. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.

The first step is to remove the distributor cover. It can be damp and dirty under it. On such a "conductor" the spark willingly slips anywhere, just not where it needs to be. Wipe up, scrub and dry. At the same time, it is harmless to clean the distributor contacts, for example, with a fine sandpaper. Examine the so-called "slider". If you find a dark trace of electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cover, the part will have to be changed.

Check the wires going from the distributor to the candles in the most biased way. The wires and their ends must be dry and clean. If, in your opinion, everything is in order with them, you can put the cover back in place, restore the connections and try to start the engine. If the malfunction was hidden under the cover, the engine will start or, in the worst case, at least start to sneeze. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you have to turn out, clean and dry the candles - in your attempts to start the engine, you filled them with gasoline. If the engine doesn't even sneeze, the spark plugs will still need to be removed, cleaned, and inspected. Easier if you have a spare kit.

If you have already gotten to the stage of turning out the spark plugs, you can quite effectively (and effectively) check the entire ignition system as a whole. After connecting high-voltage wires to the twisted candles, collect the candles in a bundle, like carrots, and wrap the bare soft wire right along their threaded part. Make sure the wire is in contact with each spark plug but not touching the center electrodes. Connect the free end of the wire to ground. Having placed a bunch of candles in a place convenient for observation from the passenger compartment, turn the engine with a starter. At the same time, cheerful sparks should slip between the electrodes of the candles in turn (in accordance with the order of operation of the cylinders). If so, then the entire ignition system is in order. In this case, the sound of the engine will be very unusual - do not be alarmed, because it is spinning with the candles turned out. Do not twist for a long time. It is worse if at the second stage of the check there is another option: there is no spark between the central wire and the "body". So, it's not about high-voltage circuits. Further searches will be more difficult, evaluate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if voltage is supplied to the ignition coil. This is easy to do with a tester, and if not, you can use the engine compartment light. True, you need a couple of wires to connect it to the coil. In a classic ignition system, you need to connect a light bulb between ground and the input of the primary winding.

In the third stage, As usual, two options are also possible: the coil is either energized or not. If it is supplied, the coil is to blame - a breakdown or a short circuit, which, however, happens extremely rarely. The coil will have to be changed. Poor contact is more common in attaching the wires to the coil. Or the same wet mud, through which the spark flows away to no one knows where. Sometimes the coil is polished to a shine, but there is an invisible very narrow strip of dirt under it - a good conductor.

If at the third stage you made sure that the voltage is not supplied to the coil, the electronics or contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. You cannot cope with electronics (switch and, less often, a sensor in the valve housing) - special equipment is needed to diagnose them. You can only pull the sensor connector on the distributor housing - it suddenly helps. If you have a car with a classic contact ignition system, you can look further.

Remove the cover from the distributor and inspect the breaker contacts - they can oxidize, especially if the machine has been stationary for some time. Contacts should be carefully cleaned with a thin sandpaper or a special file.

Tug the cleaned contacts so that they close and open. The voltage across them is only 12 volts, so you can tug without fear. If the cleaning does not help and the voltage is still not applied to the coil, we again advise you to stop trying to resuscitate the car for a while, as further difficulties will begin.

If voltage appears (when the contacts are tugged, the light blinks), restore everything that has been loosened and disassembled, start the car and, perhaps, will still have time for its business. If it does not start, but at least sneezes, turn out the candles and ... (see above).

Don't press to the floor - it won't help

It may also happen that the entire ignition system was checked, everything is in order in it, and the engine, even if you crack, still will not start. This means that problems with another of the systems mentioned earlier - the power supply system, i.e. e. supplying fuel to the engine.

If you have a car with fuel injection (injection system), do not touch it (the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was she who broke down: there is a spark, the fuel is suitable - it means that she is, darling. Treatment only in a hospital. At home and at handicraftsmen, it is useless and even harmful to repair it.

In a conventional carburetor engine, the fuel system is simpler - a tank, a gas pump, a set of pipes and a carburetor. Here you can dig deeper yourself. The first step is to make sure that the gas is going to the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and press the manual fuel priming lever. If a rather powerful jet of gasoline is hammered, everything is fine, it's time to move on to the carburetor. It so happens that gasoline is supplied to the carburetor regularly, but for some reason it does not enter it. If you have time and desire, remove the air filter, and then ask someone to sharply press the accelerator pedal. Or, you can pull the throttle cable sharply yourself. At the same time, look into the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you will not see anything): if a trickle of gasoline does not appear in the first diffuser, it means that it is not in the float chamber. It is not there because the valve needle is stuck or (it happens not very often) the fuel filter in the carburetor is completely clogged - it is located in front of the float chamber. Or the jets are clogged. The filter is purged by blowing, however, if you do not have the necessary skills, it is better not to mess with the carburetor innards at all, to deal with a jammed needle valve, clogged nozzles and other subtleties - let the specialists do it.

If there is a trickle in the diffuser, pay attention to the carburetor trigger - it often fails. On foreign cars, since about the 70s, automatic air damper control has been used. The device without your participation, depending on the engine temperature, closes or opens the damper as needed, enriching the mixture when the engine is started. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulation of the air damper, but there are a lot of options and there is no universal advice. Before starting the manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. The air filter may not be installed yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and with God (after returning the air filter to its place). If, when checking the fuel supply with the gasoline pump, it turns out that the gasoline does not come from the hose or the trickle is very thin, the cause should be looked for in clogged pipelines, a fine fuel filter or the gas tank itself - you can well demonstrate your skill by pumping the gas line with a tire pump in the direction opposite to the movement of gasoline, i.e. e. from the carburetor to the tank. A booming, gurgling sound should be heard in the tank.

With a fine fuel filter, everything is simple. Although on almost all modern models it is made in a transparent case, the degree of its contamination cannot be visually determined. A dirty filter will allow the engine to start, but will not allow it to drive properly. If it is completely clogged, you will not start the engine. The most effective check: remove the filter and, if there is no new one, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example ballpoint pen casings, better transparent - you can see how the gasoline flows. Do not try to clean the filter - the sealed (or sealed) housing cannot be disassembled.

If you come to the conclusion that your car does not have a fuel pump, and there is no spare at hand - "Take another car ...".

We left the rare, but most unpleasant diagnosis for last. If the starter is working properly, you've already wasted a lot of time and made sure that the ignition and power are in good order, but the car still won't start - it's worth inspecting the camshaft drive belt. However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The difficulty is that you have to remove or at least partially bend the upper part of the plastic cover that covers the belt. Perhaps the teeth of the belt were cut off - belts, like people, lose teeth from old age. In this case, the camshaft will not rotate and the engine will not run. It is clear that the toothless belt requires replacement (for those who have a car with a camshaft chain drive, this trouble does not threaten). The belt replacement procedure is not difficult, but troublesome. Carried out in a hospital. It's good if everything is limited to replacing only the belt, and not the bent valves or the entire block head - this also happens.

Less freeloaders

It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since it is maintenance-free on most modern cars, it makes no sense to include operating instructions here. Let's give just a few additional tips on how to keep the battery viable for longer. Do not get carried away by stuffing your car with additional energy consumers. The fact that a certain reserve is provided in the energy balance of the car, allowing two or three "freeloaders" to connect, does not mean that you can hang six horns and ten fog lights on the car - have a sense of proportion. In addition, if you connect unintended tweets yourself, there is a high probability of damage to the insulation. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified, surgical intervention in the wiring of a car sooner or later makes itself felt. Trouble.

If your battery is running low, try not to dull your engine during countless stops in the city. Nothing rapes a battery like frequent use of the starter.

And the last (this applies not only to the battery, but to all electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire ends must be dry and clean and fit well to the "destination". Dirty, oily insulation sooner or later breaks through, and burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) reason for the failure of the ignition system. Or a fire.

We can stop here. Meticulous motorists have undoubtedly noticed some superficiality in our advice. We admit that we deliberately do not want to go deep into the jungle. In order not to provoke you to self-medication - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain in the lower abdomen on the right does not mean that you yourself have to remove your appendix. But you must accurately describe the symptoms of appendicitis to the doctor. It helps the treatment very much