Checking the generator may be required when sunbathing the battery charge lamp on the instrument panel, and this means that the battery is charging. Each driver is useful to know how to check the generator and its details that will be described in detail in this article.

The lack of charge of the battery can occur not only by the wine of the generator, and for example, due to the failure of the regulator relay. And before checking the generator, you should first make sure that the regulator relay is good.

How to check the proper function of the relays of different types of regulators, I wrote in detail here in. And about the generator device and its main faults can be read. The generator and the serviceability of its some parts can be checked without the generator disassembly or disassembly and the methods of verification will be described below.

If, when checking, some of the malfunction of the generator will be detected, it will be possible to eliminate them as described here in, about the repair of the generator.

Check generator in parts.

Stator check Generator. The generator stator is checked separately after generator disassembly. All conclusions of the stator must be disconnected from the diodes (valves) of the rectifier block.

First, you visually make sure that the lacquer of the stator winding wires has no traces of overheating (and even more so melting), which can occur with a short closure in the rectifier valves. The stator with traces of melting isolation should be replaced.

Checking the generator using the stand .

Checking on the stand allows you to most accurately determine the operation of the generator and the correspondence of its characteristics nominal. To assemble the stand, you will need to fix the electric motor with a plug on the welded frame from angle (or profile tube), then fasten the generator on the same frame so that the pulley of the electric motor rotates the pulley of the generator using the belt.

Reostat 4 will still need (see the connection circuit on the left) Voltmeter 3, the control 12-volt light bulb (3 W) 1, ammeter 5, switch 6, and automotive 7 (the generator itself is 2 in the figure). Everything connects according to the scheme in the figure.

Before checking the generator, it is necessary to clean the contact rings of the generator from the tax, and the brushes must be well sorted in shape to the contact rings. After connecting all the components of the stand according to the figure, turn on the electric motor and the retail 4 set at the output of the generator voltage equal to 13 volts. Then brought the rotor of the generator rotor to 5000 rpm.

With such revolutions, we give the generator at least two minutes, then measure the strength of the recoil current. A serviceable generator of front-wheel drive vases (VAZ 2108 - 09) The current will be at least 55 amps. For more powerful generators of foreign cars, the current of the return current of course is greater, and how much exact ampere can be clarified in the specifications of a particular generator.

1 - Generator, 2 - Voltmeter, 3 - Control Light Bulb, 4 - Reostat, 5 - Ammeter, 6 Switch, 7 - Battery.

The walls for checking generators of foreign cars are almost the same, only the findings of imported generators have other notation (D and B +), as in the figure just above.

If it turns out that the current is less than laid, this indicates the faults in the winding of the stator or the generator rotor, or the damage to the diodes, or the wear of the contact rings or brushes. In this case, the disassembly and testing of windings and diodes will be checked, as described above.

Checking the voltage at the output of the generator is checked during rotor revolutions 5000 rpm. In this case, we set the recoil current of 15 amps and measure the voltage at the generator output. It must be 14.1 ± 0.5 volts, at a temperature of 25 ± 10 ° indoors where the stand is located.

If the voltage has a different value (less or more than 14.1 ± 0.5 volts), then the regulator should be replaced with a new or obvious and re-repeat check. If the replacement of the relay does not help and the voltage will still differ from the norm, it means that the regulator is not in the relay, but in the windings of the stator or rotor, or in the faulty diodes of the rectifier block.

Checking the generator using an electronic oscilloscope .

The electronic oscilloscope is not far from all, but it allows the shape of a rectified voltage curve quickly and accurately check the operation of the generator and determine the nature of the damage. Therefore, it makes sense to write this method of checking the generator.

To check the scheme should be collected as shown in the picture on the left. Then, disconnect the total output wire of three additional diodes from the terminal in the voltage regulator relay and wind the tip of the disconnected wire with a tape (so that it does not corner on the generator body).

Next, to the terminal in connect the wire from the battery (see Figure) through the control light 1. Now the excitation winding will be powered only from the battery. Include the electric motor of the stand and we achieve the rotor of the generator rotor approximately 1500 - 2000 rpm. Then the switch 6 turn off the battery from the generator terminal 30 and with the help of the 4 amp of the recoil current.

We check the voltage on the oscilloscope on the generator terminal 30. With good rectifier diodes and a serviceable stator winding, the straightened voltage curve has the shape of the uniform teeth of the saw as in Figure A (see Figure just below).

A - generator is good.
B - Diode breaks.
B is a break in the diode chain or in the stator winding.

If there is a break or short circuit in the rectifier diodes or a break in the stator winding, then the curve form will be with uneven teeth with deep depressions (see Figure B and B).

When the terminal 30 was checked and made sure that the curve shape is normal, you should check the voltage on the plug 61 or on the tip of the wire, which is disconnected from the plug in the regulator relay. These points are a common output of three additional diodes that feed the excitation winding during the operation of the generator.

And here the shape of the voltage curve should have the right shape of the teeth. If the shape of the curve has an irregular shape of the teeth, then this indicates the failure of additional diodes.

More about checking and restoring the generator and the relay of the foreign car regulator can be read.

Well, finally, several warnings that are important to know each driver.

• The minus wire from the battery should always be connected with a mass, and the plus wire is connected to the generator terminal 30. Reverse (erroneous) Connecting the battery instantly causes the increased current through the diodes of the generator rectifier and the diodes will fail.
• You can not allow the operation of the generator with a disconnected battery, as it causes the occurrence of short-term overvoltages on the terminal 30 of the generator and it will damage the voltage regulator and other electronic on-board network devices of the modern vehicle.
• It is strictly forbidden to check the health of the generator on the spark, even a short-term connection of the terminal 30 of the generator with a mass. At the same time, a high current flows through the diodes of the rectifier block and they fail. You can check the operation of the generator only with a voltmeter and ammeter.
• The generator rectifier diodes cannot be checked by a megommeter (it is too large for voltage diodes) or voltage of more than 12 volts. Since the diodes are punched with such an inspection (a short circuit occurs).
• It is also prohibited to check the wiring of the machine with a megommeter or lamp, powered by voltage of more than 12 volts. If such wiring is necessary, you should pre-disconnect the wires from the generator terminals.
• Checking the insulation resistance of the generator generator winding with increased voltage can only be on the stand, but necessarily with the phase windings disconnected from the rectifier.
• For body work using electric welding, it is necessary to disconnect the wires from all terminals of the generator and battery.

That's it seems to be all. Of course, the generator check is not such a simple matter, but with a competent approach and the availability of appropriate knowledge, it is quite possible to identify any malfunction and eliminate it without the help of an autoelectrician, success.

The lack of battery charging threatens unpleasant consequences: lacking energy to power consumers, the engine stops running. To deal with the cause of a malfunction, it is necessary to check the generator, in the car services, the diagnosis is often carried out on a special stand, for this, the node is removed.

But there are also methods to check the source of charging in place where it is not necessary to dismantle the generator, in some cases it is possible to eliminate the problem quite easily. In this article we will look at what is the ways of fast diagnostics, and that it may be necessary for this.

How to check the generator in place

There are basic causes of bad launch of the engine, the starter turns badly if:

• the battery is old or defective, it does not charge and does not hold the load;
• battery wires do not provide reliable contact, for example, due to oxidized terminals;
• there is no reliable mass of the engine with the body;
• the generator does not give the desired charging;
• weakly stretch the drive belt, because of this, the generator rotor is not fully spinning, since under the loading strap slips.

The generator breakdowns are different, the most characteristic of them:

• breaking suitable wires;
• sample diode bridge;
• malfunction relay-regulator;
• closure (brave, breaking) rotary or stator winding;
• bearing wear;
• erasing brushes or their breakdown.

The worst thing that can happen is to join the bearings or the combustion of windings, but in this case, check the generator for performance simply, its condition is easily determined by external signs:

• the generator pulley is not spinning with the shaft on the engine center;
• there was a specific smell of burner windings.

The main methods of checking the generator in place are an external inspection of the generator node parts and the voltage measurement (U) multimeter (voltmeter). On a running engine under load, the voltage must fall a few, but only to a certain value, if it is below the norm, it is necessary to specifically understand the generator device.

The operation of the generator without its removal from the car is checked by the same principle, regardless of the car model, be it a foreign car or VAZ-2106. At the same time, it is not necessary to connect the multimeter to the generator connectors, the stress measurements are obtained directly on the battery. Check the generator with the tester as follows:

If charging is almost not falling under load, it is very good, means that the generator is almost new, as well as the battery in excellent condition. When the Voltmeter engine shows a voltage of less than 12 V, first needed to maintain the battery, first of all it should be recharged. It should also be borne in mind that the permanent underscipment of the battery leads to the destruction of the battery plates, in the running cases there are and repair the generator, and to engage in the restoration of the battery performance (sometimes it is replaced).

Removing the battery terminal during engine operation - the old test method for checking the generator performance, this method was still applied on Soviet cars. Perform checks like this:

• run the motor;
• disconnect the minus terminal, we assign it to the side;
• if the engine is turned off, it means there is no charging, it is necessary to deal with the generator;
• without installing the terminals, add revs, the DVS should not stumble.

It should also be paid at such a moment - when installing a minus wire in place during operation, idle turns should not change significantly. A significant reduction in revolutions suggests that the battery is strongly discharged, and attention should be paid to it. A discharged or defective battery can be suspended on the road, it is better not to ride with such a battery.

An important point - to remove the terminal on the running engine is very neat, the wire should not touch the current parts of the machine (body, engine housing, etc.). On many modern cars, disconnect the terminal during the operation of the engine, it is not recommended at all, with insufficient confidence in the test results, this method is better not to be applied.

It is worth noting that there is still a way to check the control light, but this method will not be considered - the lamp only indicates the presence or absence of charging, using it it is impossible to determine the voltage value in the network, its dependence on the load.

Signs of weak generator charging

In order to understand that the generator does not provide a normal charging, it is not necessary to make measurements, it is possible to determine the malfunction on various features:

• during operation of the engine, the charge lamp on the instrument panel lights up or lights;
• under load (inclusion of headlights, rear window heater, etc.) the engine turnover falls;
• the headlights are burning dimly, it is especially noticeable when turning on the high light;
• with increasing engine speed, the whistle is heard, the cause of which is a weakly stretched drive belt, so drops and charging.

The onboard network state control lamp must light up when the ignition is turned on and go out on the engine head. If the lamp on the instrument panel does not ignite at all, it may have overloaded, it must be replaced. Light indicators are now installed almost on all modern cars, earlier voltmeters were mainly used to control the state of the power grid. These meters have ceased to be applied due to a large error in the testimony: it is difficult to determine which charging of the instrument panel to determine which charging is given by the generator, but it's hard to notice a signal lamp if it caught fire.

The reasons for the shortage of the battery

The car battery is a power storage device: during engine operation, it is charged from the generator, and then gives its energy to the starter to start the engine. If the battery does not charge in a complete measure, it cannot provide a normal scrolling starter, because of this problems arise:

• motor does not start or starts with great difficulty;
• when the headlights or other consumers are turned on, light on the instrument panel;
• the car has to start various unpopular methods - from the pusher, from a tug, with the help of a chubby to another battery.

When there is an off -rate accumulation, the control lamp on the instrument panel is lit in half the heat, the main reasons for such a phenomenon here are as follows:

• there are damage in the diode bridge - one of the diodes is broken;
• faulty relay regulator (PP);
• generator brushes are worn, or they are easily adjacent to the ring at the end of the anchor (there is no reliable contact).

The voltage regulator (relay) is more often the cause of this malfunction, this is one of the most vulnerable parts in the electrical part of the machine. To check or replace the relay controller, often you have to remove the entire generator assembly, but there are many models of the car, where the removal and replacement of the RR can be performed on the spot, without dismantling the generator node.

Recharge battery

The generator is not always unshaoted acb, it often happens when the reload is happening, that is, the generator node produces voltage over the required norm. As a rule, the cause of recharging is a faulty voltage regulator, it does not work, as it should be, and the generator continues to produce current with a fully charged battery.

Without removing the generator from the car, the relay controller is checked in the same way as under subwage, only in this case the multimeter shows the voltage of the on-board network when the load is turned on more than 14.7 V (readings can be even higher, for example, even more than 17 volts) . Permanent relear is dangerous because because of him:

• begins to boil the electrolyte in the banks of the battery;
• picky plates acb;
• sulfation arises (plates destruction), the battery becomes inoperable;
• due to high voltage, light bulbs can be broken, the electrical equipment, fuses burn.

There is also a danger of an explosion of a battery that occurs due to clogging of holes in the tubes of battery cans with a boiling electrolyte.

On many cars of the VAZ of the Classic family (in particular, on the VAZ-2106), the voltage relay changes fairly easily, so it is located separately, located next to the front wing of the car. The VAZ-2105 and 2107 relay regulator is placed in the generator itself, it is difficult to get a little more difficult, but it is also easy to replace it.

The main source of electricity in the car is the generator. It starts simultaneously with the start of the engine, after which it produces energy and charges the battery. When it fails, the battery charge is not enough for a long operation of the car, so the driver is obliged to monitor the state of the generator.

Problems due to which the generator may fail during operation, weight. It can be both mechanical problems and electrical. The generator malfunction is also manifested by various symptoms, among which are the most common:

• The emergence of foreign sounds emanating from the generator;
• Battery Problems: Discharge, Recharge, Switching Electrolyte;
• Reduced brightness of headlight headlamps with increasing revolutions. Such a situation is considered normal if it occurs briefly when switching to the first transmission from the idle mode on the "cold" engine;
• Signaling the control lamp on the discharge of the battery during the movement of the car;
• Failures in the operation of electronics, including the dim burning of headlights and a weak beep.

If the symptoms described above arise, it is necessary to check the car generator. Diagnostics, most often, is performed in four parameters:

• Verification of current flow rate;
• Diagnostics of the operation of the diode bridge;
• Checking the voltage regulator of the generator;
• Verification of excitation windings.

Depending on the identified problem in the diagnosis, the question of the feasibility of repairing the generator is solved.

Security rules when checking the generator

Before you begin checking the automotive generator, you should familiarize yourself with the basic safety rules that will allow to maintain the health of the diagnosticity and not to deduce the aggregate. The basic rules for safe check and generator repair are as follows:

Please note: if not only the generator check is performed, but also welding with the body of the machine, you must begin to turn off the generator and the battery completely from the on-board network of the car.

Verification of the flow of the generator

For this generator verification, a multimeter is required, equipped with a special probe for measuring the current flowing in the wire. This probe looks like a clamp that covers the wire, and most often it supplies with a diagnostic device. To check the power of the generator gathering current:

1. Throw the clamp on the wire, which comes to the "B +" pin ("30") of the generator;
2. Next, start the engine and set high speed;
3. After that, one must include electrical consumption for car - radio, air conditioning, heating steering wheel and others. When you turn on each consumer, you should record the indications from the multimeter;
4. Next, you need to measure the strength of the recoil current when all consumers are turned on (which are included in the previous test).

When all measurements are obtained, you must compare the total indicator of the alternate inclusion of consumers and the indicator of the instantaneous inclusion of all consumers. It is considered invalid if the indicator when the instantaneous inclusion of all consumers per 5 or more ampere is less than the amount with alternately inclusion.

Checking the diode generator bridge

To check the state of the diode generator bridge, you must translate the multimeter to the alternating current measurement mode. Connect one measuring probe diagnostic device to the "B +" exit ("30"), and the second to the ground. Voltage with such a connection of probe should be no more than 0.5 volts. If the voltage is more, a short circuit of diodes occurred.

You can also check the diodes on the breakdown. To do this, the battery from the generator is turned off and the wire is also turned off, which is suitable for the "B +" terminal ("30"). Next, the multimeter is connected between the disconnected wire of the generator and "B +" ("30"), after which the readings are removed. If the discharge current multimeter shows more than 0.5 mA, the probability of a breakdown of diodes is large.

Checking the voltage regulator generator

To diagnose the status of the automotive generator regulator, you must use a voltmeter or multimeter in a voltmeter mode. Before the measurement starts, you need to start the motor, turn on the headlights and make the engine for 15-20 minutes. The measurement itself is carried out by the senses, which are connected between the mass and the output of the "B +" ("30") diagnosed automotive generator. The obtained values \u200b\u200bare recorded, after which they must be compared with normal numbers for a specific car model. These figures can be found in the technical documentation of the machine. For most machines, the normal voltage varies in the range from 14 to 16 volts. If there are deviations from the norms specified by the manufacturer of the car, the likelihood of the failure of the voltage regulator is large, in such a situation it will be necessary to replace it.

Verification of excitation windings

To check the good speed of the automotive generator excitation windings, the preload is necessary to remove the controller and the brush holder to access the contact rings. For diagnostics, an ommeter will be required, the probes of which should be applied to the generator contact rings. As a result of the inspection, the resistance must be at the level of 5-10 ohms. It is also necessary to make sure visually that there are no cliffs in the winding.

To diagnose the closure of the excitation winding "For Mass", it will be necessary to connect one intriguing omemera with any contact ring, and the second is applied to the generator stator. As a result of the measurement, endless resistance should be displayed on the screen.

When diagnosing the generator, it is also necessary to examine it for mechanical damage. According to the results of all inspections, the feasibility of repairing the device or its replacement is determined.

This node ensures uninterrupted operation of all electrical systems in the car. The principle of operation lies in the processing of mechanical energy of rotation of the crankshaft into electricity. The generator is connected to the crankshaft belt, so its individual elements rotate, producing energy. If some breakdown happens to him, then problems may occur not only with electronics, but first of all with smooth operation of the motor. There is a chance to stall in the middle of the way somewhere far beyond the city. Therefore, when first suspicion, steps should be taken to eliminate it. However, it is necessary to be sure that the problem is in the generator, and many motorists do not have sufficient skills and do not know how to check the generator for performance. Therefore, the article will be discussed about the methods of correct diagnostics of this engine assembly.

How to check the generator service?

Before you start checking the health of the generator by car, it is necessary, as in other similar works, the first thing to learn a list of all unacceptable actions:

• First, it is impossible to check the generator by car by a short circuit, trying to get a spark.
• Secondly, it is forbidden to allow the contact of the "30" terminal with the terminal "67" or "mass". On some machines, the first terminal is marked as "B +", and the second as "D +".
• Thirdly, it is forbidden to operate the generator without connected electrical equipment. Worst of all affects work without a connected battery. Therefore, the AC generator must always be under load.
• Welding work should be carried out exclusively when the power off is turned off the entire car, that is, all wires should not be connected to the battery and the electric generator.
• Before you proceed to detailed diagnostics of the electric generator, be sure to pay attention to how the generator belt is stretched and check the condition of all connections. Often the reason for unsatisfactory operation of the device lies in poorly attacked belt or unreliable connections. When you press on its middle, the deflection should be not more than 1 centimeter, the maximum of one and a half.

So, following the safety and taking into account the items listed above, you can start checking the generator by car.

Check generator multimeter or voltmeter

The most affordable service control of the car generator is a multimeter diagnostics. For this purpose, the easiest tester is suitable for the minimum amount. Many car owners have such a device, and it will fine with this task.

But before checking the generator tester, the first thing is to examine. Since it is designed to start it, sometimes the cause of interruptions in the vehicle electrical system is concluded in the bush. Run the motor on a semi-bodied battery will not work. Therefore, the first measurements need to be carried out with it.

First, turn off the engine or make sure that it is muffled. Then open the hood and connect the red multimeter probe to the plus contact of the battery, and the black to the minus, that is, to the mass. In the case when the battery is charged and properly, the voltage in it should be about 12 V. If these indicators are lower, then, most likely, a malfunction is precisely because of it. Therefore, it must be charged or buy a new one. If everything is normal, then the case is most likely in the alternator of the AC.

To understand whether the generator works, you can use another way of diagnosis. Since it gives a battery charge on the go, the battery must be charged and the voltage value increases. Therefore, if you managed to start the engine, bring the speed up to 2000 and hold them so at least some short time. After that, without turning off the motor, check. The charge should increase to 13 volts. If it ranges from 13 to 14.5 volts, depending on the speed of the engine, the generator is working and copes with its work.

And yet, if all the manipulations with the battery showed the incapacity of the generator, then you will have to understand directly with it. This is a more complex and time-consuming process that requires at least some basic skills from the repairing person.

Monitoring the voltage issued by the generator

Since the measurement of the voltage using the battery may be inaccurate, it is best to make sure of it in sufficient value, checking the measurements directly on the generator itself.

If you decide to check whether the generator is working, then you first need to warm the engine for 15 minutes on medium turnover, including the headlights. Next, it will take measure the voltage between the outputs of the mass "30" on the generator. For each car there is its own rate of indicators. If the multimeter gives the data that is knocked out of normal boundaries, it says that the voltage regulator breakage will be replaced.

How to diagnose a malfunction in a diode generator bridge?

In addition to the ordinary probe, special clamps can go with the tester or, as they are also called, probes. They are designed to test power. Such a probe will be needed for the next stage of verification.

This time you need to try to detect damage to diodes or isolation of the windings of the generator diodes. To do this, set the variable current measurement mode on the multimeter, and then connect to the "mass" and the output "30". If the voltage is more than 0.5 V, then the case can be in the breakdown of diodes.

Next, you should make sure that there is no breakdown of diodes and their isolation. First, disconnect the battery and remove the generator wire that goes to the "30" terminal. Then you need to measure between this output and the generator wire disabled. With current force, more than 0.5 and on diodes or isolation there are really damage.

Control current recoil

Cele a special probe with a wire that goes to the output of the mass "30". Run the motor and give it high speed during the measurement. Then start in turn to include electrical appliances in the car and measure the current separately for each. After counting the testimony, spend the same diagnostics, but with all the included electrical appliances. The value of the current obtained during the second test should not be less than the sum of the indicators in the first test. Permissible difference in 5 A in a smaller side.

Generator excitation current measurement

This stage of diagnostics is the most complex and requires the car owner of certain skills of working with. It will be necessary to place the probe on the wire that goes to the "67" conclusion or, as it is still labeled, "D +". Run the motor and the same as in the previous test, unwind it up to high revolutions. The multimeter will show the magnitude of the excitation current, which must be equal to 3 to 7 A.

In addition, it is necessary to check the magnitude of the excitation of the winding in the generator. As mentioned above, this stage is rather difficult. For such a test, you will need to dismantle the brief holder and voltage regulator. Most likely, only these actions do not cost the diagnosis and will have to clean the contact rings and check for the presence of the winding. You should also see if there are no closures on the "mass". For this purpose, the multimeter must be put into the resistance measurement mode. Measuring probes are applied to the contact rings. Resistance must be within 1.8-5 ohms. If the indicator is lower than normal boundaries, it indicates the presence of short-circuited turns, and if more, it says about the wose of the winding.

After such measurements, place one sensor on the contact ring, and then connect to the generator statist. If the generator is working, it will show infinitely important. With other indicators, the winding closes on the "mass".

Here, in fact, all major tests that can produce with a non-professional generator. For such an uncomplicated procedure, you do not need to have some special skills and skills. You just need to know at the base level, as the automotive motor is arranged, and have a desire to fix something. Try to perform all the above items and you will understand that checking the operation of the generator for performance is quite easy. Of course, if you first see everything that is under the hood, then it is better to entrust such work to the master, because errors are fraught with destructive consequences for the entire electrician electrician.

The malfunction of the car generator refers to the class of critical, under which the further operation of motor vehicles is not allowed. You can use a multimeter to perform a generator performance.

Signs of non-standard car generator may be:

• lack of "battery" on the dashboard during the inclusion of ignition;
• glow bulb "battery" after starting the engine;
• periodic blinking of the "battery" signal indicator during the movement;
• the smell of burner wiring in the generator area;
• refusal to start the engine after parking.

The lack of battery charge with a faulty generator leads to problems with the start of the engine. A more dangerous is a malfunction associated with an excess of current and voltage of the charge of a car battery. Many motorists use the engine running from the donor battery, after which the battery terminals are turned off to switch to charging their own battery. At this point, the power of the electrical equipment of the car is carried out from the generator.

If the generator is faulty, the voltage in the on-board network may be more than 17 volts, which leads to a breakdown of protective stabilion in the engine control unit. In this case, an expensive repair of the engine control unit is required.

Causes and Possible Fault Consequences

The inoperability of the generator is possible for the following reasons:

• voltage regulator malfunction ("Tablets", "Chocolates" in Slane car enthusiasts);
• wear (destruction) brushes;
• closure of exciting winding (rotor);
• breakdown of diodes (located in the horseshoe);
• bearing wear and sleeves.

The voltage controller malfunction usually leads to absence of battery charge. In this case, the "Battery" indicator icon is lit on the dashboard. The engine continues to work as long as the battery does not discharge to a voltage of approximately 8 to 9 volts.

In the bright time of the battery day, the battery may be enough for 30 -50 kilometers of the journey, provided that the battery at the time of failure was well charged.

When the output stage of the voltage regulator is triggered, a malfunction may occur associated with an increase in the output voltage of the generator to 17-20 volts. In this case, the rechargeable battery is occurring. The consequence of reloading is the process of boiling electrolyte. If the traces of corrosion appear in the hood appear in the battery area, you must check the generator.

The sample of the diode bridge can occur in case of accidental ransom (installation of terminals in incorrect polarity). Usually diodes make their way in pairs in one shoulder. A faulty diode has resistance close to zero. The generator stator winding in this case operates in a short circuit mode, heats up.

After a few minutes of the engine, the winding engine is overheated, the smell of burner wiring appears under the hood of the car. In order to avoid ignition, the engine must be drowning, check the generator.

Wear brushes leads to a gradual failure of the generator. At first, during the move, the charge indicator light on the dashboard begins, then it starts glowing constantly. In many models of the generator, the brush changes in conjunction with the voltage regulator.

The closure of the generator windings can lead to a significant change in the output parameters, overheating the device.

Sequence of the initial check

Initial control of performance can be made without dismantling the generator. To do this, set the multimeter switch to the "Distant Voltage 20B" mode. Next, connect the black probe to the minus terminal of the battery, red - to the plus. After that, you need to start the engine, give it to the mode of stable idle speed. It is considered normal indications of the multimeter ranging from 13.5 to 14.5 volts.

If the multimeter shows a value less than 12.8 volts, the charge process, or does not go at all, or the charge current is extremely small. The generator works in non-standard mode. At voltage, more than 14.8 volts is a recharge battery. This can lead to boiling electrolyte, an increase in the concentration of acid, the destruction of the plates of the battery.

To monitor the voltage at the output of the generator, it is necessary to break the chain from the terminal 30 on the generator (the contact location with a thick wire leading to a positive battery terminal or starter) turn on the automotive lamp.

Next, connect the multimeter in the "\u003d 20V" mode with a red dipstick to the contact 30 of the generator, black to the smashed contact on the engine or the bodies. Turn the engine. The testimony at the multimeter should not be more than 15.5 volts at any press of the accelerator pedal. Otherwise, the further operation of the generator is dangerous for the electrical equipment of the car.

When checking, it is necessary to estimate the degree of tension of the generator belt. According to the simplified method, this can be done, pressing the finger on the belt.

The magnitude of the deflection must be in the range of 0.5 - 1 centimeter. At the same time, check the degree of belt wear.
To determine the causes of non-standard operation of the generator, the execution of the repair work requires the dismantling of the generator.

Check generator nodes

The check starts with the control of the voltage regulator. For this, the regulator is dismantled from the generator and create the simplest electrical circuit.

As an incandescent lamp use any car lounge. With a serviceable voltage regulator, 3 lamp 6 should not be glowed at full power. When connecting parallel to the lamp (brushes) of the multimeter, its readings should be from 5.0 to 10.0 volts. If the multimeter readings go beyond these limits, the knob must be changed. The design of some generator models provides for the possibility of replacing the regulator without dismantling the device.

Share check the excitation winding of the generator on the breakdown. To do this, the multimeter is installed in the measurement mode of the resistance to the limit 200 kiloma. Properties are connected: black - to collector lamella, red - to the metal part of the anchor. Resistance must be more than 100 kiloma or above the upper measurement limit, as shown in the photo.

Resistance between lamellas (rotor winding) is usually 0.5 - 2 Ohm.

Checking the stator starts with the control of windings on the breakdown. To do this, the red multimeter probe is connected to the metal part of the stator, black - sequentially to the windings.

Resistance must be above the upper limit of measurements. Then measure the resistance between the contacts of the windings. They should differ no more than 5%. The measurement limit of the multimeter is set to 200 Ohm.

If the winding has an electric breakdown, a short circuit of turns or a break, it is subject to replacement. There are workshops that perform the rewind of states and rotors.

To control the health of the diode bridge, the measurement mode of the multimeter is transferred to the "diode" check. Then the diodes are repeatedly "nicknamed" (their number on the horseshoe is usually 9) in direct and reverse turning on. In the forward direction (black dipstick to the cathode) resistance is 550 - 700 ohms, with reverse inclusion - more maximum measurement limit.

When testing diodes, resistance in all directions will be practically zero. Such a diode should be changed. The difficulty of replacing the diode is that the diodes in the generators are not soldered, but are welded with spot welding to ensure reliable contact at different temperature modes.

The car generator is a significant part of the electrical equipment of the car. With the first manifestation of the signs of inoperability, it is necessary to check it with a multimeter.