Replacing the Opel Astra G gasoline pump must be carried out in compliance with all appropriate conditions and with the subsequent check of the installed device. The reason for the replacement may be a periodic loss of traction or errors that pop up during the operation of the car. Also, the fuel pump should be checked if extraneous sounds, hum and howling appear in it.

Do-it-yourself Opel Astra G fuel pump replacement

Replacing the fuel pump with Astra G is carried out only after diagnosing the fuel supply system and installing the cause of the malfunction. If the cause was precisely the failure of the fuel pump, it is necessary to replace it with a new one, having previously dismantled the damaged part. An original Bosch fuel pump is suitable for replacement - catalog number 0580314195 - or any suitable analogue.

How to remove a gasoline pump Opel Astra G:

• Remove the seat from the rear seat.
• Bend the carpet and fix it in this position.
• Remove the plastic cover of the fuel pump using a flat screwdriver.
• Knock the retaining ring off the cover using the same screwdriver and hammer. WD can be used to facilitate ring removal.
• Disconnect the power plug, remove the petrol line. In this case, gasoline residues will flow out, which will need to be wiped off with a rag.
• Unfasten the four clips, remove the fuel pump and remove it from the housing.

In the process of dismantling a damaged fuel pump, it is important to remember all the attachment points of the parts, the order of disassembling the pump and the location of the part. The new fuel pump is installed in place of the old one in the same position, all elements of the system are assembled in the reverse order.

The gas line and the power plug are turned on strictly after the retaining ring is put on. This completes the replacement of the Opel Astra G fuel pump.

After replacing, it is necessary to check how the Opel Astra G fuel pump works at idle speed. If everything is normal and the pressure in the fuel supply system not less than 300 kPa, then you coped with the task successfully and in the future there should be no problems with the fuel pump.

For a long time the muse did not visit me, and now, finally, I gathered my thoughts and decided to describe the process of a small engine repair X16XEL volume of 1.6 liters and a capacity of 101 hp. Opel Astra G car born in 1999.

Separately, I want to say that all the names of manufacturers mentioned in the article do not carry any advertising hints.

What are the reasons for this repair? Of course, increased oil consumption. Due to inoperative oil scraper rings on the pistons and hardened valve seals (valve stem seals), bluish smoke appeared from the exhaust pipe after engine warming up and at high revs, and candles began to “clog up”.

In general, it was decided to make minimal engine repairs, namely, it was necessary to replace the piston rings and valve stem seals.

What tools and accessories are needed for the repair?

• At least one jack (preferably two). Raise the front of the vehicle and place it on the props.
• Supports for installing a car on them.
• Chocks or bricks.
• A set of Torx keys.
• Key 15. Needed to loosen the belt tension add. units (there are rollers (for example, LYNXauto) with a bolt 14).
• It is advisable to get an internal gauge somewhere.
• Piston ring kit. To immediately order what you need, it is advisable to first disassemble the engine and measure the diameter, as well as carefully inspect the cylinder walls.

In my case, the cylinders remained the standard size of 79 mm, and there was even a honing mesh on the walls, which is necessary to keep the oil on the cylinder walls in order to increase the lubrication of the rubbing surfaces.

I have ordered 4 sets of standard size piston rings from Goetze, part number 0830780000.

• Valve oil seals, they are valve stem seals, they are also valve seals, they are valve stem seals. I ordered Victor Reinz oil seals.
• o-rings of injectors. It is advised to replace the injector O-rings with new ones. One nozzle has two different rings: upper and lower. The upper is thicker.

For example, article number: 1280210796 - top ring from Bosch. But I did not find an analogue of the lower O-ring, I found only the original - 5817563 - General Motors.
- Connecting rod bearings. I have purchased a Kolbenschmidt earbud set part number 87409600.
- Set of bolts for cylinder head. As much as I would not like to save money, but you cannot do without new bolts. During disassembly, the heads of two bolts broke off. I ordered a set from Victor Reinz, part number 143210301.
- Cylinder head gasket. For myself, I ordered a Victor Reinz gasket article 613199510.
- Valve cover gasket. The part number of the original General Motors is 90573498. Or an analogue, for example, Victor Reinz 713428800.
- A camera for fixing parts and assemblies assembled so that later questions do not arise: "What is this?" And "Where is it from and where?"
- Comrade. Not always, but sometimes you can't do without his hands.
- An old oil canister.
- Clean plastic bottle 5 l.
- Clean rags.
- And of course the desire to understand everything and do everything yourself!

And so, let's go! If you have a garage with a lift or a viewing pit, this is ideal. But in this case, all work was carried out in a garage without a pit, so everything described below applies to this case. The first step is to put the car on the handbrake. Install stops under the rear wheels of the car so that the car does not roll in any direction.

Then you need to jack up in front of the car. A prerequisite for the successful completion of all work is to set the raised car on supports. The height to be raised in front of the car should be sufficient to remove the wheels and so that you can easily climb under the car (and of course get out back).

Even before starting work (while the car starts up), the pressure in the fuel system must be relieved. This can be done in several ways: in the relay mounting block under the hood, find and pull out the fuel pump relay (usually purple), start the engine and wait until it stalls; it is not possible to start the engine, but to relieve pressure using the valve located at the end of the fuel rail on the passenger side, after placing a container for the remaining gasoline under the valve.

Disconnect and remove the battery.

We climb under the car, remove the crankcase protection.

We drain the oil.

It is better to drain all fluids from the engine before it cools down. We unscrew the oil filler cap so that when draining the oil flows out in an even stream. Then unscrew the drain plug from the bottom of the oil pan. The oil can be drained into a canister cut in half. Then you need to unscrew the oil filter. There are a lot of different devices and methods for removing the filter: special keys, chains, piercing the filter with a screwdriver, using a belt of additional units, just unscrew it by hand.

We drain the coolant.

In front, under the bumper on the passenger side, we unscrew the plastic butterfly-shaped stopper to drain the antifreeze. We pour it into a 5 liter bottle. When draining, part of the antifreeze will still spill past the bottle, so it is better to put something underneath, for example, cardboard.

Removing the air filter.

Disconnect the air temperature sensor on the intake tract. It is removed simply - two contacts, one latch. Next, we disconnect the intake tract from the throttle assembly. The wide hose is attached to the throttle valve with a hose clamp. It is very convenient to unscrew this clamp with a head of 6 with a flexible extension.

Then a thin plastic tube is pulled out, inserted into a rubber hose. And one more hose going under the valve cover is attached with quick-clamping clamps. The clamps are removed with pliers. It is better to remove the hose completely and leave the clamps on it.

Removing the belt of additional units.

If the belt will be used in the future, then before removing it is necessary to mark the direction of its rotation. And when assembling, put it on in the marked direction. A 15 open-end wrench must be thrown over the bolt securing the tensioner roller. Using a wrench, move the roller counterclockwise, loosening the belt tension, and fold the belt.

Remove the right front wheel.

Now you need to remove the accessory belt tensioner. For some manufacturers, the roller is fastened with a bolt of 14, for some with a bolt of 15. The bolt must be unscrewed clockwise.

Disassembly of the X16XEL engine.

Removing the timing belt.

Remove the ignition module. Disconnect the driver's side connector, unscrew the four Torx screws (internal) securing the module. We take out the module. You can immediately remove the short pipe connecting the tube from the crankcase to the valve cover.

At the same time, you can see how much dirt has been deposited in this compound. The tube can then be removed by unscrewing 2 bolts and cleaned.

On the passenger side, unscrew 3 screws and remove the upper section of the timing belt cover.

We unscrew the 2 screws and remove the camshaft sensor (in the photo he looks at the gear of the right camshaft (release)). Disconnect the sensor connector. The wire goes under the plastic cover, which contains the wiring harness going to the injectors.

To remove the lower section of the timing protection cover, you must unscrew the crankshaft pulley. It is secured with one Torx bolt (outer). We put the 5th gear on the car. We fix the brake disc of the right wheel, which is removed. To fix it, you can insert a thick screwdriver or a 10-inch hexagon into the gap between the cross members of the two disc halves (ventilation) and rest it against the brake caliper. Now you can unscrew the pulley and remove the lower section of the timing cover. It fastens with snaps.

Before removing the timing belt, I recommend checking the alignment of the marks. This will require the help of a friend. It is necessary to unscrew the spark plug from the first cylinder (counted from the timing). Lower the inside of the cylinder, for example, a long screwdriver so that it rests against the bottom of the piston. Then, with the 5th gear engaged, rotate the brake disc of the right front wheel clockwise (normal direction of rotation of the crankshaft) to match the marks on the camshaft gears and on the crankshaft gear.

On the camshafts, the marks should be opposite each other (if you look at the gears, then the mark on the right (outlet) should be at 9 o'clock, and on the left gear (inlet) at 3 o'clock). The mark on the crankshaft should be opposite the mark on the timing case (about 5 o'clock).

When the gears rotate, the screwdriver inserted into the 1st cylinder will go down and up with the piston. The marks on the gears should line up when the screwdriver is at the highest point (top dead center for the piston of the first cylinder).

To remove the timing belt, you need to loosen the screw in the center of the tensioner pulley (inner Torx). Then, with a hexagon, take the eccentric of the roller, until the timing belt looses as much as possible (this is not much, but you can see it).

Before removing the timing belt, you must turn the crankshaft 60 degrees counterclockwise so that the compressed springs on the valves do not crank the camshafts. Because the piston in the first cylinder is at the top and when turning the camshafts (without a timing belt), the valves may be damaged on the bottom of the piston. When the crankshaft is turned 60 degrees back, the piston in the first cylinder will lower slightly, and the spring forces on the valves will become approximately the same.

The camshafts will now not crank. You can remove the belt from the camshaft gears. If this is not enough to remove the belt, then you can still loosen the pump mount. It is attracted by 3 screws with wide washers. The screws just need to be loosened a little to turn the pump. Before loosening the screws, remember (or better take a picture) the position of the pump. The pump is made by an eccentric, therefore it also plays a role in the timing belt tension. The screws are difficult to reach due to the plastic cover. If you plan to change the belt, you will also need to unscrew the right engine mount. If the belt has recently changed, then it can simply be folded to the side.

Removing the valve cover.

Disconnect the 2 tubes going to the throttle valve (they are on quick-clamping clamps). The cover is secured with Torx screws (external). From the side of the camshaft gears, the edge of the cover goes under the timing case, which slightly interferes with the removal of the cover. Therefore, the presence of two more hands of a friend is desirable, with which he will slightly pull the casing from the lid.

Then you first need to raise the edge farthest from the casing and pull the cover sideways and up so that it comes out from under the casing. Remove the cover very carefully so as not to damage the gasket. But if the gasket is not new, then it is better to replace it. Cover the camshafts with a clean cloth after removing the cover.

To remove the camshaft gears, you need a 24 open-end wrench and a friend who will hold this key. There is a place on the camshafts near their oil seals just under the open-end wrench. Before unscrewing the camshaft gears, it is recommended to turn the crankshaft slightly counterclockwise (backward) so that the valves do not hit the bottom of the piston.

If the mark on the crankshaft gear was at about 5 hours, then it will be enough to turn the crankshaft so that the mark is about 3 hours. Then, with a key, we hold the shaft from turning, with another Torx key (external) we unscrew the gear bolts.

Removing the intake manifold and fuel rail with injectors.

Remove the support that holds the intake manifold. It is located under the car on the passenger side and is secured with two bolts (pictured to the left of the generator bracket).

Disconnect the brake pipe to the brake booster from the intake manifold. To disconnect it, you need to press the latch on the side of the connector.

Then we unscrew the EGR valve (2 screws), having previously disconnected the connector from it. It is located on the driver's side of the intake manifold.

We pull out the accelerator cable a little to pull the outer shell out of the rubber ring, then remove the ring together with the cable from the metal bracket. The cable is removed from the ball joint. We disconnect all connectors from the assembly (sensor and idle speed regulator), in general, everything that fits the throttle assembly.

Now disconnect all connectors from the wiring harness located above the fuel rail.

It is also necessary to remove the two negative terminals on the two studs on the right side of the intake manifold (10 nuts). If you forgot to release the pressure in the fuel line, you can do it now using the valve. Disconnect the supply and return fuel pipes from the rail.

To do this, unscrew the 2 union nuts. The fuel rail is attached to the manifold with two screws. Now we remove the fuel rail along with the injectors and the harness. The nozzles simply fit tightly into the respective wells. The manifold itself is secured with 5 or 6 Torx screws (internal). We unscrew them and remove the manifold together with the throttle assembly.

The throttle assembly will then need to be removed to rinse. It is attached to the intake manifold with 4 screws.

Disconnect the 2 connectors from the electronic control unit (ECU). The ECU is located on the driver's side, between the engine and the battery. To do this, lift the lever on the connector on the wire side.

Removing the generator.

The generator is easier to remove together with the bracket. The bracket is secured with 3 Torx screws (external) accessible from the bottom of the vehicle.

Then you need to unscrew a couple of screws from the generator from the side of the hood. After that, we take out the generator up.

It is necessary to disconnect another flange of the cooling system from the head. It is attached between the head and the generator with two Torx screws.

The thermostat does not have to be removed, but 2 hoses can be disconnected from it with quick-clamping clamps.

We carefully check what else fits the block head and what has not been disconnected.

Removing the exhaust manifold.

Disconnect the connector from the lambda probe, which is screwed into the exhaust manifold. My connector from the sensor itself was not disconnected, I disconnected the connector from the other end of the wire. Before removing the exhaust manifold, you must disconnect the receiving pipe of the muffler. It is attached to the manifold with 4 bolts of 13. It is better to unscrew the bolts using an extension and a ratchet.

The exhaust manifold is covered with a thermal protective casing (3 screws), mounted on 9 studs and pulled to the cylinder head using 13 nuts. One of the studs has a front eyelet for lifting the engine. The studs can be completely unscrewed, or they can remain in the cylinder head (only the nuts will be unscrewed).

Continuation ,

Replacing the Opel Astra G cabin filter: the importance of the operation to ensure the proper operation of the ventilation system, the frequency and order of work.

The Opel Astra G cabin filter participates in the air conditioning system. The operation of replacing this element is regulated by a German company for the first maintenance. The frequency with which the Opel Astra G cabin filter is replaced is set by the plant at around 15 thousand km. However, with intensive use in the urban cycle or in difficult conditions, it is recommended to install a fresh filter after 10 thousand kilometers. Many owners also use seasonal replacements - after a dusty summer or the changing climate of the winter season.

What you need to know

Timely replacement of the Opel Astra G cabin filter contributes to high-quality cleaning of the intake air. This circumstance is important for two reasons:

1. Ensuring the efficient operation of the air conditioner, which is directly related to the cleanliness of the air conditioner radiator surface.
2. Cleaning the air entering the passenger compartment. With increased contamination of the cassette, dust particles will not only penetrate inside, but also the contaminated surface of the filter material will become a breeding ground for pathogenic bacteria.

Even in the absence of an air conditioner in the blowing system, a filter is provided in the design. Instead of the model, a carbon element is installed to protect against dust.

The answer to the question of how to change the cassette in the Opel Astra G, you need to start from the installation site. Traditionally in Opel, the compartment where the replaceable element is located is located behind the glove box. Access to the place where the Astra G cabin filter is located will be prompted by a thematic video or the described work algorithm.

The procedure for replacing the cabin filter Opel Astra G

The upcoming replacement of the Opel Astra G cabin filter will require a Phillips screwdriver. At the initial stage, the fastening screws of the built-in glove box are unscrewed to get to the place where the Astra G cabin filter is located. There are 6 of them around the perimeter. After closing the glove compartment lid, we remove the entire glove box. Pay attention to the wiring that provides the illumination of the glove box. Rough handling can cause wire breakage.

Access to the compartment for replacing the cabin filter Opel Astra G is open. Closer to the central tunnel, a compartment cover with a removable cartridge is found. It is mounted on two clamps, and in some versions using threaded connections.

After opening the compartment, the spent element is removed. His condition is definitely assessed. With subsequent use, the owner can adjust the replacement frequency if the filter is heavily soiled.

Before installing a new filter element, remove any remaining dust from the plastic housing. The replaceable element must be installed taking into account the arrows marked, indicating the direction for installation. The assembly process is carried out in reverse order. Replacing the cabin filter Opel Astra G completed.

Instruction in the photo

Using TORX 20, unscrew the three screws securing the glove box
... and three screws for the bottom fastening
Pulling the box towards you, take it out

Disconnect the block of wires
Remove the cabin filter cover fastening

A rare gasoline engine 1.2 (X12XE and Z12XE) with a 16-valve cylinder head and a timing chain boasts a tenacious piston group, however, a thin single-row chain brings it up. Most live up to 150 thousand, but there were cases of stretching up to 100 thousand run. Replacing the chain with all the accompanying parts by the standards of a small old machine will not please the price. The second most popular problem is the wear of the variable geometry intake manifold flaps, which, in the worst case, fall inside the cylinders.
- Eight-valve 1.6 (75 hp X16SZR and 84 hp Z16SE) quietly go for 400-500 thousand kilometers or more, with a minimum tendency to oil burnout and minimal costs. These are really the best motors on the Astra.
- In the middle and end of the 2000s, the main "horror story" about the Astra G was a 16-valve 1.6 (101 hp, X16XEL), which in 2000 was quietly changed to a modified X16XE of the same power. The problem is in the quickly worn out valve guides, which is why the oil burner started at completely children's runs up to 100 thousand and required the removal and re-assembly of the cylinder head. Now, most likely, all these unsuccessful motors have been repaired and this is hardly really relevant. However, 8-valve valves are still better - there are problems with the ECU.
- All other 16-valve valves - 1.4, 1.8 and 1.6 after the update - are quite decent options, except perhaps the aforementioned problem with the ECU, which is typical for the entire series. The main thing is to change the timing belt every 60 thousand, monitor the spark plugs and eliminate leaks in gaskets and oil seals. Maintenance costs are generally minimal.
- The rare X20XEV - the legendary "chumotek", is good for everyone, except that it is practically impossible to find it on the Astra G, and if it succeeds, then this car will be until 1999.
- The turbocharged Z20LET on powerful versions is made on the basis of the "chumotek", and it survived the forcing without difficulties. True, old charged Opels are rarely in good condition.
- On coupe versions, there is a 2.2 Z22SE engine. This option, as already mentioned, is not very successful. Firstly, the timing here is chain (as in 1.2), the service life of the chain is unpredictable (maybe 150, and 250 thousand), and replacement is quite expensive in comparison with the belt. Secondly, the cylinder head is made of frankly low-quality aluminum: this is expressed not only in frequent damage to the threads of the spark plug wells, but also, in the most advanced cases, in tearing out the tensioner and / or damper of the timing chain, which are attached to the cylinder head. Thirdly, if the car is very old and it's time for a major overhaul, do not look for the repair dimensions of the pistons - they are not there, you need to overload and set the denomination. In short, by the standards of old Opel with a motor, a lot of problems.
- Diesels are bad mainly because they were taken for everyday driving over long distances, and over the years their mileage has most likely crossed the 500 thousandth mark. Diesel is expensive to run, much more expensive than a gasoline engine, even taking into account fuel savings. And if you nevertheless decide, then most of all the diesel operators like: the old vortex chamber 1.7TD (X17DTL) and already "direct" 2.0 (X20DTH) and 2.2 (Y22DTR), provided that they are equipped with Bosch fuel equipment (sometimes Denso) ... Reviews for 1.7 with direct injection (Y17DT and Z17DTL) are worst of all, they scold both the injectors and the pump.

Every vehicle owner at some point is faced with brake failure, Opel cars are no exception. Brakes are one of the most important components of safe driving, since the slightest malfunction can lead to fatal consequences.

Causes of car brake breakdowns

Replacing the rear pads of the Opel Astra G is carried out only after a comprehensive diagnosis of the entire brake system in the absence of the possibility of repairing. The most common cause of brake failure is faulty control units. And this happens due to non-compliance with the rules for operating vehicles. Another problem is the breakdown of wheel sensors, the main task of which is to constantly monitor the speed of rotation of the wheelset.

Replacing brake pads Opel Astra G

If you begin to notice that your car has started to slow down badly, then you should visit our AutoPilot car service in Moscow as soon as possible. Our masters will quickly diagnose the unit, and if any malfunctions are found, they will repair or replace the rear pads of the Opel Astra G. We will help to establish the brake system, which will ensure the comfort and safety of travel in your car. Our arsenal has modern equipment and diagnostic stands, which allow you to detect the smallest malfunctions in the brake system and instantly eliminate them.