An important part of the car's design, which connects the camshaft and crankshaft, is the timing belt - the timing belt. Replacing the timing belt is strictly regulated and spelled out in the car's manual, however, not all car owners have an idea of \u200b\u200bwhere the timing belt is located, not to mention its function and replacement.

When to change the timing belt

The movement of the car is ensured by the transmission of torque from the crankshaft to the camshaft. The timing belt is responsible not only for this, but also for the synchronization of the operation of the shafts. The gas distribution mechanism also regulates the process of supplying the fuel mixture and removing the internal combustion products.

The timing belt is responsible for the transmission of torque and the synchronization of the vehicle shafts

A break in the timing belt leads to a loss of shaft synchronization. At the moment of breakage, the valves are in the lowered position and collide with the pistons, which ultimately leads to defects and bending of the valves, failure of the pistons, breakage of the seats and the appearance of scratches on the cylinder walls, followed by deformation of the valve bushings.

The result of such damage is the need for an overhaul of the engine or its complete replacement.

Reasons for a broken timing belt:

• improper vehicle operation;
• untimely replacement of a part;
• poor quality tape;
• the appearance on the surface of the product of stains of technical liquids;
• natural wear and tear of the consumable;
• interruptions in the operation of other nodes and systems.

If the following defects appear, it is worth inspecting the timing belt and replacing it:

• the appearance on the surface of the product of cracks, bulges and traces of wear;
• lack of several teeth, tears;
• presence of oil or other liquids on the surface;
• stratification of the base of the belt;
• frayed end surfaces.

The rollers are usually changed along with the timing belt. Detection of scratches, chips, backlash and other defects on the water pump is the basis for its replacement. If oil stains are found on the surface of the belt, then the oil seals should be checked - the failure of these parts can cause such marks to appear.

Replacement frequency

Normal wear and tear, improper operation or other reasons lead to failure of the timing belt and the need to replace it. At the same time, it is not worth taking the situation to an extreme: it is enough to conduct regular diagnostics and visual assessment of the part. Such a check will help to avoid breakage at the wrong time.

The frequency of replacing the timing belt depends on the specific car brand and is indicated in the transport operation manual. Despite the standards set by automakers, many experts advise changing a spare part every 50 thousand kilometers.

When buying a used car, you will have to independently check the condition of the timing belt - it is enough to visually inspect it for wear. Abrasions or cracks on the belt surface are considered obvious signs of wear. However, the presence of such defects does not mean that the belt will immediately fail, since inside it there is a base consisting of metal rods. Thanks to them, the part withstands shock loads and maintains its working condition throughout the entire service life.

Timing belt cracking is another clear sign of wear.

Some cars are equipped with timing belts with reinforced metal cords, which affects their service life, increasing it by an average of 30%. Modern car models are equipped with rubber and metal belts that have a limited shelf life.

Such parts cannot be repaired - in case of failure, they are simply changed. The decision to replace the belt is taken not only if it breaks, but also if it sags, stretches or decreases in tightness, which negatively affects the synchronous operation of the valves. As a result, this can lead to malfunctions in the functioning of the entire vehicle, the main symptom of which is malfunctioning of the engine.

Almost always, along with the timing belt, they change the water pump, or pump. On most cars, this device perfectly copes with its duties until the death of the car, however, in some situations, it must be changed before the established deadline. For this reason, experts advise changing the pump at the same time as the timing belt..

How to choose a part

When choosing timing belts, they rely on several main criteria:

• invariability of the characteristics and properties of the part throughout the entire operational period;
• no deformation due to stretching;
• absence of defects and obvious traces of destruction.

Today, a wide range of timing belts is presented in car stores, which makes it difficult for many car owners to decide on the choice of a particular model.

Products made in Europe are considered to be of the highest quality. This is explained by the strict quality control of parts manufactured in European factories: every stage of production is checked, starting from the selection of raw materials and ending with the verification of an already finished part. For this reason, many car owners value Gates mechanism belts very highly.

Table: the most popular brands of timing belts in the opinion of domestic motorists

Manufacturer	Manufacturer information
Dayco	An Italian company specializing in the production of joints, drive belts and roller mechanisms.
Gates	One of the market leaders in the production and sale of power transmission belts. Products under the brand name of this manufacturer are found not only in the automotive industry, but also in agriculture, metallurgy, in the field of computer technology. The company is based in Belgium.
Contitech	A group of manufacturers whose products are installed directly into new vehicles when they are assembled. In addition, the company is engaged in the manufacture of air suspension mechanisms, drive systems, technical fluids and accessories and parts for the car interior. German firm.
Bosch	The most famous and oldest German company specializing in the production of automotive parts, construction and garden equipment, power tools and household appliances. The company is located in Gerlingen, Germany.
Lemforder	Many car enthusiasts are familiar with the company under the name ZF. Manufactures suspensions, drives, transmissions and steering systems. Country of origin - Germany.
Balakovo	Domestic manufacturer of rubber products, specializing in the production of various household parts, mineral and chemical mixtures. The plant is located in the city of Balakovo. The parts produced by him are very popular among domestic motorists.

When buying timing belts, it is advisable to pay attention to several nuances that will help determine and understand which spare part is original and which is fake. You can take a closer look at the example of Gates belts.

Packaging

The original spare part is sold in a dense cardboard box with a high-quality printed pattern. Unlike a fake, genuine packaging is not as soft and pleasant to the touch.

Belt teeth

The profile of the belt teeth on the original is even and uniform, there are no traces of uneven cutting along the edges of the rubber. It is also worth checking the reverse side - inscriptions and numbers are usually poorly printed on a fake, the marking is not white, but a dirty yellow shade without indicating the country of origin.

Hologram

The original packaging of Gates belts always has a holographic mark on it.

When buying a drive belt, it is advisable to immediately purchase a complete timing belt set - its fake is more complicated and demanding in execution. It is worth checking how the packaging looks and the quality of the packing of the components - the belt itself and the rollers to it.

Do-it-yourself timing belt replacement

The drive belt replacement scheme is not the most difficult process that you can do yourself in order to save money. The car owner does not need to have special knowledge - it is enough to familiarize yourself with the operating instructions for the car.

Change the belt

To replace the timing belt or the complete set of the mechanism, you will need the following tools:

• the key with which the tension roller is adjusted;
• spanner keys;
• large screwdriver;
• circlip puller.

Work order:

1. Before starting work, the negative terminal must be removed from the battery. To provide free access to the gas distribution mechanism, the engine protection, generator belts, the generator itself, and the power steering fluid reservoir are removed. The listed parts may interfere with belt replacement.

   The open timing mechanism after removing all the parts is impressive

2. Then the piston of the first cylinder rises to the top dead center and the bolt that secures the tension roller is unscrewed. The roller rotates slightly to loosen the belt tension. After that, the part can be safely removed from the pulleys of the rollers, camshafts and the pump.
   

   After unscrewing the bolts, the tension roller is removed

3. It is a little more difficult to remove the pulley bolt from the generator drive - you will have to fix the crankshaft in one position. It is best to carry out this procedure with an assistant - he will hold the teeth of the flywheel rims with a screwdriver while the clutch housing plug is removed.
   

   Fix the crankshaft in one position

4. The crankshaft pulley bolt is unscrewed and removed along with the washer.
   

   Using a screwdriver, the crankshaft pulley block is removed

5. The alternator drive pulley is removed from the crankshaft. Then the timing belt washer is removed from it, after which you can remove the belt itself.
   

   After the crankshaft, the old timing belt is removed

Video: how to remove the timing belt

How to add labels

The marking of the timing mechanism is often carried out using a special tool, clamps - conductors, which are resorted to if the old belt was incorrectly put on or the phase regulator is turned. They allow you to fix the crankshaft in one position and eliminate its scrolling.

When using such assistants, timing marks are set as follows:

1. The crankshaft and camshaft are fixed by conductors.
2. The tension roller is loosened with a wrench.
3. The camshaft gears are loose.
4. The timing belt is tensioned with a roller.
5. The camshaft gear is tightened.

Video: why process a part and place marks using conductors

However, conductors are not an obligatory device for setting timing marks - this can be done without them. It is enough to stock up on keys for 17 and 19. In more detail, the process of marking the mechanism can be considered using the example of a VAZ 2109 car:

1. A new tensioner roller is installed.
2. The camshaft pulley turns until the mark on the shaft itself is opposite the bar located on the engine block. After that, it is advisable not to touch the shaft, so as not to move the marks.
3. A bolt is attached to the crankshaft, designed to align with the pulley marks. The shaft itself is turned so that the pulley mark is in a strictly vertical position. The correctness of its location is checked by pulling out the rubber plug from the clutch housing.
4. A viewing window appears through which the flywheel can be seen. There is a mark on it: if the alignment was carried out correctly, then it will be located opposite the engine block strip.
5. Finally, the timing belt is pulled over the crankshaft pulley and camshaft.

Video: tagging a part

Instructions: how to put the timing belt correctly

Timing belt tension is one of the important parameters affecting the performance of a car engine. Overtightening a part can cause rapid wear on the bearings, idler roller and water pump. A weak tension can provoke violations of the valve timing and jump of the belt teeth.

The tension level of the belt is adjusted using a tension roller - it is turned around an eccentric axis.

To tighten the timing belt, you need the following tools:

• socket head equipped with a ratchet wrench or a 17 key;
• special wrench for turning the tension roller. You can replace it with conventional drills and a large screwdriver.

The process of tensioning the timing belt or how to make it "change":

1. The front cover is removed from the mechanism belt.
2. The crankshaft turns clockwise one revolution neatly and smoothly. You do not need to turn it harder - you can unscrew all the spark plugs.
3. The crankshaft turns in the opposite direction by two teeth of the camshaft pulley, thereby reducing the tension on the driving part of the belt.
4. The tension of the part is checked. With a little finger pressure, a correctly tensioned belt turns 90 °.
5. If the belt is too loose or too tight, then its position is corrected. For this, the nut securing the tensioner roller is loosened. After that, the roller turns counterclockwise by 10-15 ° for tension, clockwise - for loosening.
6. If there is no special key at hand, drills are inserted into the holes of the roller, and the part itself is turned with a screwdriver.
7. The fastening nut is tightened and the belt tension is re-checked.

Video: timing belt tension

Normally, the tension of the timing belt should be such that the part deflects by 5.4 mm when exposed to a force of 100 N. The belt tension is checked only on a cold engine.

How to replace and tighten the timing belt without special tools

The timing belt is tensioned using special tools. However, if they are not at hand, you can use a screwdriver and two nails or drills, between which the screwdriver is placed. In a similar way, you can use a table fork - two prongs in the center break off, and the remaining ones are bent at the desired angle.

There are several ways to check the belt tension without a special tool:

1. Use a regular ruler and 10 kg weight. The ruler is placed on the belt between the pulleys, and a weight is placed on it. The belt should be pulled from the plane by no more than 5 mm.
2. Use the scales - a steelyard. A hook of the scales is attached between the pulleys to the central part of the belt, after which the steelyard is pulled upward until it shows 10 kg. After that, the distance over which the belt stretched is measured - it should not exceed 5.4 mm.

The tightened belt of the mechanism during the operation of the car will screech unpleasantly, while the service life of the part itself, tension rollers and pump bearings will be significantly reduced.

Video: checking the tension of the installed timing

How to install a new pump, change tension rollers and oil seals

The water pump has a longer lifespan than the timing belt, so experts advise changing it at the same time as every other belt. It is impractical to change the pump separately, since the path to it is similar to the path to the timing belt, and you don’t want to go through half of the engine compartment once again.

The situation is similar with oil seals: they change as they wear out and fail - for example, if engine oil leaks appear.

But with tension rollers, the situation is diametrically opposite: they can be changed without fail simultaneously with the timing belt.

After installation, the rollers and belt are treated with special lubricants to eliminate wear. Lithol is considered a good composition, however, experts recommend using special silicone lubricants.

Signs of improper removal and replacement

After installing a new timing belt, car owners often record the appearance of unpleasant noise and whistling while driving. There can be two reasons for this:

1. Technical fluids get on the belt. If whistling and noise appear after a cold start of the engine, then there is a high probability that either the coolant or engine oil has leaked.
2. Poor quality of the installed part. In this case, only repeated belt replacement will help.

The whistling and noise after replacing the timing belt is eliminated simply - just lubricate it. For this, special aerosols are used, which can be purchased at automotive stores.

If the grease does not help and the whistle persists, then you will have to check all the components for leaks. When found, they are eliminated, parts are replaced if necessary, after which the external noises should disappear.

Often, after replacing the tension rollers and the timing belt, an unpleasant hum and vibration of the engine appears. The main reasons for this are incorrectly set marks or errors when installing the balancer belt, which turns 180 ° in the wrong direction. Vibration is eliminated by checking the marks and reinstalling them, as well as adjusting the position of the balancers.

The timing belt is a consumable part that plays a huge role in the operation of a car engine. It may well break and fail, but this problem can be solved. Regular replacement and correct tension ensure the proper functioning of all machine systems and guarantee driving safety.

The gas distribution mechanism is one of those that determine the performance of a vehicle. If you do not pay attention to checking its performance, then later it may happen that it simply breaks off. All about when you need to change the timing belt and chain, what must be done during the change process and how the timing belt is replaced with your own hands with the video, you can learn from the article.

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We change the timing belt ourselves

So how does a timing belt change work and how often is it done? Read on.

Replacement frequency

The first question that interests many motorists is the frequency of replacing the timing belt. After how many thousand kilometers does this component change? For the correct answer to this question, certain nuances must be taken into account. Firstly, it is the quality of the strap itself. It has long been known that the domestic car market is teeming with counterfeit products and counterfeit products, so sellers often offer consumers a non-original. As you might guess, such parts are not particularly distinguished by their strength and reliability, as a result of which the car owner has to change the element much more often.

It should also be noted that the frequency of the part directly depends on the manufacturer. On average, the interval at which the timing belt is replaced is from 60 to 70 thousand kilometers. It is with this mileage that the strap usually changes. Another factor to consider is the age of the car. If your vehicle was produced 20 years ago, then it must be borne in mind that the general wear of all components and mechanisms occurs faster as a result of aging of the machine structure itself.

After how many kilometers does the component change in this case and how often should this be done? In practice, this procedure is carried out necessarily after 35-40 thousand kilometers.

It's another matter if you bought a car from hands. In this case, the question of when to change the timing belt cannot be postponed.

Algorithm of actions

If everything is clear with how many kilometers and when to change the timing belt, move on to the next question. How to change the timing belt - this question is no less relevant.

Let's look at general instructions for changing a component.

1. The battery is disconnected first. The drive belt of the generator should also be disconnected, and the piston of the first cylinder should be put in the top dead center position.
2. Then, with a wrench, the screw of the tension roller must be unscrewed, after which the roller itself is turned to loosen it so that the tension indicator is reduced.
3. Next, you should dismantle the part from all shafts - from the camshaft, roller shafts, as well as the pump shaft.
4. To remove the drive shaft fixing screw, the crankshaft must be secured so that it cannot turn. Usually the crankshaft is fixed with a powerful screwdriver. The bottom line is to dismantle the plug, while the pulley should not turn.
5. Using a wrench, you will need to unscrew the screw that secures the crankshaft disc. The pulley itself is removed and the component drive washer must be pulled out with extreme care. The strap itself is removable. The element is assembled in the reverse order.

Is it necessary to change the pump when replacing the timing belt?

In general, how to change the timing belt is a rather laborious question that requires certain skills. Let's consider a few more specific nuances. How often, after how many kilometers, when to change the timing belt - these questions of frequency are everyone's personal business. But it must be remembered that along with the strap, other components must be changed.

Sorry, there are currently no polls available.

In practice, almost all specialists today are replacing the gas distribution mechanism strap along with the pump. This is due to the fact that for the normal functioning of the entire mechanism, it is desirable to install new auxiliary parts. In fact, we also recommend replacing the pump along with changing the timing component.

Do I need to change the rollers when replacing the timing?

How many kilometers do you need to change the rollers? The answer is unequivocal - the rollers change along with the strap. This must be done for the same reason that the pump changes along with the main component. To avoid having to climb and disassemble the mechanism once again, it is recommended to install new parts.

Change the timing chain

Now we will consider all the nuances that relate to the chain of the gas distribution mechanism.

When should you change?

The first thing we are interested in is when to change the timing chain. In contrast to the previous case, in foreign cars equipped with chains, this procedure is carried out less often. But again, it all depends on several nuances. The first is the general state of the mechanism. If certain elements need urgent change, then this can affect the resource of the chain as a whole.

As a rule, the chain does not have a service resource in km. In most cases, it is installed for the entire service life of the car, after which it is simply disposed of. However, in Russia and the countries of the former CIS, vehicles are rarely scrapped and are usually used "to victory", respectively, here they go much longer than their service life. Domestic motorists usually face the need to change the chain after 250-300 thousand kilometers.

Tools and replacement steps

Let's consider a general instruction. The video is provided below.

Prepare your tool:

• set of heads;
• two screwdrivers;
• keys set;
• jack;
• torque wrench;
• sealant.

Let's start replacing:

1. Regardless of the design of the vehicle, the straps of the air conditioner, generator and power steering are dismantled first. It is also necessary to remove these devices. After that, the crankshaft and timing pulley sensors are removed. The crankshaft disc must also be removed.
2. The starter is disconnected and the screws that secure it are unscrewed. the device is removed.
3. It is necessary to unscrew all the screws that secure the oil pan, after which it must also be removed.
4. If the right engine mount prevents access to the chain, then it must also be removed.
5. After that, all the bolts securing the front chain cover are unscrewed with the keys, and the cover is dismantled.
6. When the cover is removed, dismantle the hydraulic tensioner and guide. To do this, unscrew all the screws required for this. The piston of the first cylinder is set to the TDC position. All marks on the pulleys and chain must match. The old chain is removed, after which a new one is installed. Don't forget about labels.

Now you know how to replace the timing belt and chain.

Video "Replacing the timing chain"

In this video, see the process of replacing the timing chain using the example of a Kia car.

The accessory drive belt must be replaced if cracks, tears or peeling of rubber from the fabric base are found on it. Forcibly, regardless of the condition, the belt is replaced every 60 thousand kilometers.

There are three options for the drive schemes of auxiliary units, depending on the configuration of the first generation Renault Logan / Sandero car.

Replacing the accessory drive belt of the first generation Renault Logan / Sandero with power steering and air conditioning

Driving diagram of auxiliary units of a car with power steering and air conditioning:

• 1 -
• 2 - tension roller;
• 3
• 4 - generator pulley;
• 5 - air conditioner compressor pulley;
• 6 -support roller.

The tension of the accessory drive belt for vehicles with power steering and air conditioning is automatically adjusted by the tensioner.

To replace the belt, remove the right mudguard in the engine compartment. The sequence of actions is shown in the photo below.

To loosen the belt tension, we put a spanner wrench or a "13" head on the tension roller mounting bolt from the bottom of the car and turn the roller bracket clockwise, overcoming the tension of the tensioner spring, until the hole in the roller bracket and the recess in the device body are aligned (for clarity, shown on the removed engine).

We fix the roller bracket by inserting a 6 mm hexagon or a 6 mm diameter rod into its hole and recess in the tensioner housing.

Remove the accessory drive belt.

Marking of the drive belt for auxiliary units of a car with power steering and air conditioning - 5K 1747 (five-strand, 1747 mm long).

When replacing the belt, the idler and idler rollers must also be replaced.

To replace the support roller:

Using a spanner wrench or a "13" head, unscrew the bolt of the support roller ...

... and remove the bolt with the protective roller cover.

We remove the support roller.

Remove the tension roller in the same way.

If it is necessary to replace the tensioner (for example, if the spring breaks):

Using the "13" head, unscrew the two bolts securing the tensioner housing and remove it assembled with the roller.

Automatic tensioning device.

Install the removed parts in reverse order. Before mounting the belt, the idler roller bracket must be turned clockwise and locked (see above).

When installing the belt, we put it on the pulleys and put it under the tension and support rollers in accordance with the drive diagram.

Attention! The pulleys for the drive of auxiliary units, the generator, the air conditioner compressor and the power steering pump are six-lane, and the drive belt is five-lane.

We lay the belt on the pulleys so that it is offset to their outer edge, and the inner stream of pulleys remains free.

After installing the belt, slightly turning the tension roller with a wrench, remove the retainer from the roller bracket hole and the recess in the tensioner housing. Then, using the "18" head with a ratchet, we turn the crankshaft clockwise three turns for the bolt securing its pulley to achieve the correct position of the belt.

Replacing the accessory drive belt of the first generation Renault Logan / Sandero with power steering without air conditioning

Driving diagram of auxiliary units of a car with power steering (without air conditioning):

• 1 - accessory drive pulley;
• 2 - tension roller with bracket;
• 3 - adjusting bolt;
• 4 - the bolt of the tension roller bracket;
• 5 - generator pulley;
• 6 - pulley of the power steering pump;
• 7 - belt

The manufacturer recommends checking the belt tension of auxiliary units of a car with power steering and without air conditioning using a special tool (strain gauge tester) at a Renault dealership. Considering that the belt may have to be changed outside the dealership (for example, if it breaks), we will show you a method in which you can approximately estimate the belt tension.

Remove the right mudguard in the engine compartment. From the bottom of the car, with your thumb, press the belt in the middle between the pulleys of the power steering pump and the crankshaft. With a pressing force of ~ 10 kgf, the belt deflection should be 6–8 mm. To tension the belt, loosen the tightening of the two bolts 4 fastening the tension roller bracket and rotate the adjusting bolt 3 clockwise. After tightening the belt, tighten the tension roller bolts.

Attention! Excessive belt tension will result in premature failure of the belt and idler pulley, as well as auxiliary bearings.

To replace the belt, turn the adjusting bolt 3 counterclockwise a few turns and loosen the tightening of the bolts 4 that secure the tensioner roller bracket. After loosening the belt tension, remove it from the pulleys.

Marking of the drive belt for auxiliary units of a car with power steering and without air conditioning - 5K 1110 (five-strand, 1110 mm long). When replacing the belt, you must also replace the tensioner pulley. Install the accessory drive belt in reverse order.

Attention! The pulleys for the drive of auxiliary units, the generator and the power steering pump are six-strand, and the drive belt is five-strand.

We lay the belt on the pulleys so that it is shifted to the inner edge of the pulleys, and the outer stream of pulleys remains free.

Adjust the belt tension (see above).

For an accurate check of the belt tension, you must contact the service.

Replacing the drive belt for auxiliary units of the first generation Renault Logan / Sandero without power steering and without air conditioning

Generator drive diagram on a car without power steering and without air conditioning:

• 1 - accessory drive pulley;
• 2 -bolt of the lower mounting of the generator;
• 3 - alternator drive belt;
• 4 - generator pulley;
• 5 - the bolt of fastening the generator to the tension bar;
• 6 - tension bar

To check the tension of the alternator drive belt on a car without power steering and without air conditioning, you need the following:

With your thumb, press on the belt in the middle between the pulleys of the generator and crankshaft.

With a pressing force of ~ 10 kgf, the belt deflection should be 6–8 mm.

To tension the belt, remove the right mudguard of the engine compartment.

We loosen the tightening of bolt 2 of the lower fastening of the generator and bolt 5 of fastening the generator to the tension bar. Moving the generator away from the engine block with a mounting blade, tighten the belt. Tighten the generator mounting bolts.

Do not overtighten the belt! Excessive belt tension leads to premature failure of both the belt itself and the generator bearings.

When replacing the belt, weaken its tension (see above) and remove the belt from the crankshaft and alternator pulleys.

The marking of the alternator drive belt on a vehicle without power steering and without air conditioning is 4RK 718 (four-strand, 718 mm long).

Install the alternator drive belt in reverse order and adjust its tension. For an accurate check of the belt tension, you must contact the service.

How can the user know if there is a problem with the drive belt? Certain signs indicate defective parts: error codes, extraneous sounds.

Find out how you can diagnose a breakdown yourself, what signs you need to pay attention to and how to replace the drive belt in a washing machine.

How to determine that there is a problem with a drive element in the CMA:

1. The washing machine's self-diagnosis system showed an error code on the display.
2. During washing, the drum does not rotate, but it can be rotated by hand.
3. During operation, the drum rotates very slowly, extraneous scraping sounds are heard.

Why is such a breakdown dangerous? The fact that, in the event of a break, the belt could catch and cut the wiring or damage the sensors.

You can accurately determine the cause of the problem by removing the wall of the washer and inspecting all the details.

Why does the belt come off? The most common causes of the problem are:

• Drum pulley problems. Incorrect loading of laundry, overloading and imbalance can lead to malfunction and damage to the pulley. As a result, the belt jumps off, falls off, which leads to a stop of the SM operation.

• Wear. Each belt has its own lifespan. But few products work before the end of this period. The design of the washing machines is a likely cause of wear. Narrow machines have cramped parts that lead to quick wear.
• Incorrectly loaded laundry. If the load is overloaded, an imbalance of the drum appears - all the laundry moves to one side. When spinning at high speeds, the drum can hit the tank sharply, causing the drive element to jump off.
• Bearing problems needed to keep the drum running evenly. If the bearings are not replaced in time, this will result in strong pulley vibration. Therefore, the belt can not only fly off, but also break.

• Too little use of the AGR will cause the belt to break. How does this happen? With infrequent use, areas of the drive element shrink. At the next start, they fray, which leads to stretching and breakage.

Choice to replace

How to install the belt on the washing machine correctly? First you need to purchase a similar product that will suit your SMA.

The models with asynchronous motor use the wedge type. Its section is compared to a triangle or trapezoid. Due to the rigidity of the material, they rarely break. You can identify their number and brand by the designation on the outside.

A feature of the installation of a wedge-shaped product is considered to be a strong tension and a slight deflection in the middle part.

For the CM collector motor, poly-V products are used. Consists of several serrated wedges.

How to tighten the drive belt in this case? The installation differs from the wedge - it is not tensioned so much. However, in some models of narrow machines, this poly-V type can be very tight to put on. Therefore, you will need to use a lot of force for installation.

To buy a belt in a specialized store, just name the brand and model of the car, after which the seller will offer a suitable option.

It is not difficult to install a drive belt in a washing machine or to replace it, and the work is done in the same way.

Perform the preparatory phase first. Disconnect the washing machine from the power supply. Close the water inlet valve. Prepare a container to collect water. Unscrew the intake hose from the rear wall and drain the remaining water into a container. Now you can start disassembling.

To do this, take a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screws around the perimeter of the back cover of the CMA. With the cover aside, inspect the belt and nearby parts - wiring and sensors - for damage.

If everything is okay, it's time to learn how to change the belt. Replacement of wedge and poly-wedge products is carried out in the same way. For this:

• First pull the product onto the motor shaft and then onto the drum pulley.
• In the process, pull the belt with one hand, turn the pulley with the other.

Now you know how to insert the belt into the washing machine, so carefully inspect the installation site - it should be located clearly in the groove. It remains to install the back panel in place, fasten it with bolts and connect the CM to communications and the network.

Start the machine and check that the new belt works.

As you can see, you can change the belt yourself at home. Be careful, because some products are so tight that you will have to make a lot of effort to tighten them.

A video on the topic will help you:

According to the instructions, the alternator belt for Ford Focus 2 is not removed by loosening the tensioner or alternator, but is cut off, but in order to install it a special set of accessories is required which are used depending on which pulley (generator, power steering or air conditioner) the drive belt is worn. On engines 1.4 and 1.6 liters. FF2 there are no tension rollers on the drive belts of the ancillary units, but at 1.8 and 2.0, although there is a tension roller on the alternator belt, the belts are still disposable and they are simply cut off, and new ones are also installed with a special device. Since many do not have such equipment, and it is a pity for the money to buy it, they come up with other ways as possible or the FF2 generator without accessories. We will talk about some of them, and also show them clearly in the video. As a temporary measure, you can use a special tool - with which you can eliminate the creak of the drive belt and slightly enhance the grip performance.

Officials do not recommend replacing the Focus alternator belt on a 1.6-liter engine, because it is rough and improper handling can damage the belt during installation, but on engines 1.8, 2.0 you can do it yourself, it will be easier there.

To replace the drive belt Ford Focus 2 1.6 with air conditioning, you need a belt kit - 1708273 , its composition:

• generator belt;
• air conditioner belt;
• installation accessories (3 pieces).

If you don't take the original, then you can buy CONTITECH 6PK1059ELASTT2, it will cost 15 dollars cheaper.

A set of accessories: 1 - to drive auxiliary units (generator, power steering, pump); 2 - air conditioner compressor belt

Replacing the hinged belts with Focus 2 1.6

To change the alternator belt, a two-piece device is installed on the pump wheel (install the device until it clicks, when it becomes as needed). The pump pulley is turned by a special bolt (turnkey to "19") on the device. The belt should be wound in the following sequence: first we put it on the power steering pump pulley, while the belt is wound under the device on the pump, then we put the belt on the generator.

And to replace the air conditioner compressor belt, we take another device and put it on the crankshaft pulley, putting the drive belt on the compressor and putting it on the bottom of the device. Then we turn the KV bolt with a key (to "18"), turn the pulley clockwise, and hold the belt with our hand so that it does not come off.

Visual video instruction on how to put on belts on the Focus 2 fit

Replacing the belts of the generator, air conditioner, pump FF2 1.6 l without

Replacing the alternator and air conditioner belt with FF2 1.8 and 2.0

Now we will consider the independent replacement of the air conditioner and generator belt with Focus 2 with 1.8 and 2.0 liter engines, where you can do without priblud, saving on the purchase of a set, and taking belts from Gates:

• 6PK1305 - FF2 alternator belt;
• 5PK705SF - air conditioner belt.

To get close to the belts, as in the previous case, you will need to remove the decorative motor cover, the front right wheel, and behind it the mudguard and fender liner (key T25), and then you can act in several ways:

Option number 1 of replacing the air conditioner belt

• unscrew the five bolts of the air conditioning compressor;
• fix the air condition, so as not to break the hoses;
• remove / install the drive belt;
• we screw the compressor back, but there is one but. When the old belt is put back, the compressor can be screwed into place without problems, and if a new, not stretched, belt, then it may not work out so smoothly.

Option number 2 how to change the compressor drive belt

• without unscrewing the compressor, remove its pulley;
• turn the head on "10" and remove the pulley pressure plate;
• remove the pulley retaining ring, and then the pulley with the belt;
• put on a new hinged belt on the KV and compressor pulleys;
• we will select a pipe that is suitable in diameter (so that the diameter is larger than the compressor shaft, but smaller than the hole in the pulley);
• we pass the tube through the pulley and put it on the compressor shaft by about 5 mm and press down a little, the pulley itself jumps onto the shaft under the influence of the belt resistance;
• collecting everything back.

At the top of the engine, to change the alternator rivulent belt, unscrew the 2 tensioner bolts and leave it on the hairpin, take it to the right side of the car, remove the belt!

Reassemble in reverse order. Thus, it will take about an hour to replace the FF2 attachment belts without priblud.

Replacing the alternator drive belt Ford Focus 2 1.8 TDCi

Alternator belt replacement for Ford Focus 2 1.8 Flexifuel