The Rapid liftback is gaining popularity and is about to come out on top in terms of sales among its relatives, overtaking the current leader - Octavia. To make the car attractive both externally and in terms of filling, and at a price, the developers made a win-win move - they borrowed many solutions from other cars of the Volkswagen concern: the platform from the Polo Sedan, some of the nodes from Fabia, the exterior from the Octavia.

We will check how this "hybrid" is doing with service. Recall that we assess maintainability in points that correspond to the total standard hours (according to the official grid) spent on certain operations.

REPLACING CANDLES AND OIL FILTER: THREE FROM BASKET

Rapid for the Russian market is available with three gasoline engines - aspirated 1.2 and 1.6 and turbo 1.4. They are well known for other models of the concern. All - with a timing chain drive, which does not require maintenance.

The younger engine - a three-cylinder 1.2 - is found mainly on the Fabia of the previous generation. The attachment belt is designed for the life of the engine, but typically covers 100,000–150,000 km. Its automatic roller tensioner is located next to the generator and has a stopper to secure it in a loosened position. But using it for an easier belt replacement is extremely inconvenient, it is better to completely forget about it. To loosen the tensioner, a "50" torx is used under the black plastic roller cover. The strap is easier to change from above, but remember to sketch or photograph how it stood. Surprisingly, you can easily put it wrong.

The individual ignition coils are hidden under a decorative plastic cover with four latches. As with most modern Volkswagen gasoline engines, they sit in vnatyag candle wells. To remove the coils, you need a special puller or its homemade counterpart, otherwise there is a high risk of damaging them. Another inconvenience: the connectors on them are upside down. For an inexperienced person, removing the connectors without seeing the type of retainer is problematic. And it is impossible to remove the coils with them from the wells. For candles you need a head "on 16". Replacement according to the regulations - every 60,000 km.

The air filter housing is located behind the battery, on the left. The top cover is secured with four self-tapping screws. Element replacement interval - 30,000 km.

The middle brother is the four-cylinder 1.6-liter engine familiar from the Polo Sedan. It has a belt tensioner roller that is more conveniently located than the 1.2 motor. We loosen it with the key "17" counterclockwise and put any suitable stopper in a special hole when it goes beyond the tide on the block. To do this, like changing the belt itself, is easiest from the bottom.

The plug replacement algorithm is the same as on the 1.2 motor. The only difference is in the fastening of the decorative coil cover: two latches in the front and two guides in the back.

The air filter housing is located behind the motor. The top cover is secured with five self-tapping screws. For more convenience, when replacing the filter, remove the ventilation hose from the valve cover. It is simply put on the fitting.

The 1.4 supercharged engine has the same attachment drive as the 1.6 engine. But replacing the candles turned out to be more difficult. The lid is fixed with four “30” torcs, access to the coil of the fourth cylinder is very limited. At a minimum, you need to dismantle the ventilation pipe running directly above it. Then it all depends on sleight of hand - removing the connector from the coil interferes with the branch pipe from the turbine to the throttle assembly. If the connector does not lend itself, it will have to be removed by unscrewing two "30" torxes on the turbine, and squeezing out a couple of large latches on the throttle. Remove all hoses and lines from the branch pipe, as well as the air flow sensor connector. When reassembling, it is important to lubricate the O-ring rubber on the turbine, otherwise it may break. The air filter housing is located on the left. The top cover is secured by six "20" torxes.

The engine does not affect the layout of the engine compartment. All motors have the same inconvenient oil filler neck. It has internal sills, so the grease must be poured very slowly so that it does not overflow.

The oil filter for all units is located in front, above the generator. When replacing the filter, use a rag to avoid oiling the parts underneath. The 1.2 engine has a cartridge-type filter with a replaceable inner element. We turn out its plastic case with a “36” head. Other units have one-piece filters. We use pullers or improvised tools for them.

Antifreeze drain plug is not provided. The fluid is rated for the life of the motors. In the event of a forced drain, you will have to remove the lower radiator pipe.

Russian buyers are offered three gearboxes to choose from: a five-speed manual, a six-speed automatic and a seven-speed DSG robot. Oil change is regulated only for the machine - every 60,000 km. In other units, it is filled for the entire service life. But no one is safe from repairs that involve draining the oil.

The mechanical box is friendly with motors 1.2 and 1.6. Engineers nevertheless took care of the ease of changing the oil: there are the usual filling and drain plugs. The filling hole is also a control hole. The normal oil level is at the edge.

The hydromechanical automatic device is only available for the 1.6 engine. It is installed on many models of the concern, and the most common on the Polo Sedan. The drain hole is both a control hole and a filler hole. A measuring tube for a "5" hexagon is screwed into it. The height of the tube corresponds to the normal oil level in the box warmed up to 35–40 degrees and the running engine. To drain the grease, unscrew the tube completely, then put it in place and fill in the oil.

The service uses special containers and hoses for this, but you can do with an ordinary syringe for boxes. You only need to make a tip for the hose for the hole with the tube. To be fair, I note that such an inconvenient scheme is also used by other manufacturers.

The DSG box is paired only with a 1.4 turbo engine. It is much easier to change the oil in it than in a hydromechanical machine: there is an ordinary drain plug from the bottom, and oil (in a volume of 1.9 liters) is poured through the breather from above.

To replace any technical fluids, it is necessary to remove the plastic crankcase protection that does not have technological holes. It is secured with nine "25" torxes. Do not overtighten them, otherwise you will rip the threads in the embedded elements.

REPLACING BATTERIES, FILTERS AND BRAKE FLUID: EVERYTHING EXCEPT

Replacing the battery will not be difficult. The power fuse plate is secured to the positive terminal and the battery case with two large latches. We unfasten it from the battery and remove it together with the weakened terminal. The battery itself is secured in front by a metal plate with a “13” bolt.

The parking brake adjustment mechanism was transferred from Fabia. Access to it depends on the equipment of the machine. On machines without an armrest, simply pull out the rectangular niche behind the lever. And if you have an armrest, you will have to suffer - it has hard-to-reach mounts. Even after removing the armrest, you will have to partially dismantle and slightly raise the center console and manage to crawl to the adjustment mechanism. There is no need to go there without an urgent need.

The cabin filter is located at the feet of the front passenger, on the left (as in the Fabia and Polo Sedan). The replacement interval is 15,000 km.

The remote fuel filter is located to the right of the tank. The replacement interval is every 60,000 km. When it is removed, the servicemen do not release pressure in the fuel system. This does not affect the amount of spilled gasoline. The filter has an arrow for the direction of installation, but even without this it is impossible to place it incorrectly. It is secured to the body with a plastic clamp.

The design of the braking system depends on the motor. Cars with a 1.4 engine have all disc brakes. The front caliper is secured by two guides for a hexagon "7", and the pads are devoid of anti-squeak springs in the guide brackets. The rear caliper is tightened with two “13” bolts, and to replace the pads, a “recessed” is needed - the caliper piston can only be pressed in by rotation.

Rapids with 1.6 engine have the same front brakes, and drum at the rear. No special tools are needed to replace the rear pads.

Cars with a 1.2 engine have smaller front brake discs and, accordingly, all the elements are different. The front pads are equipped with anti-squeak springs, and the caliper is secured with two “12” bolts. Rear drums - as in versions with a 1.6 engine.

Changing the brake fluid is simple - the fittings are conveniently located. It needs to be updated every two years.

Access to the lamps in the right headlight is free, but on the left everything again depends on the motor. On machines with motors 1.2 and 1.4, the battery is shifted slightly forward, and this eats up some of the free space. Fortunately, lamps and their sockets have a simple fixation. Remove the battery if you are running out of room to maneuver. Removing the headlight is not an option - you cannot do this without dismantling the bumper.

We change the halogen lamps in the front fog lights outside. First, remove the edging, and then the headlights themselves. To gain access to the bulbs in the tail lamp, it will have to be dismantled, which does not require special skills.

Usually everyone starts to write about MOT with MOT 0. But it’s not my destiny, because the car was taken from my father with a range of 51 300 km. Prior to that, it was serviced by a dealer's rukozhopov ... For 60,000 maintenance, the dealer broke 18,500 rubles ... I called for the sake of interest to the dealer in Ivanovo, they charged 19,600 rubles. In short, well, they nafig. I went to the service center Sokol:

Where is my friend working now, who is a great specialist in VAG, for he previously worked at OD Ruslan (dealer of PV). It was he who previously served my Priora and moves on the 12shke, about which I wrote here. In general, I like that in those parts my cars are made by 1 person, and electronically by 1 person. I do not start up any rukozhopov) Spare parts were bought as follows:

all this cost 2930r Candles for 360r / piece, Oil filter 310r, plug 70r, air filter 170r, fuel 940r.

These are the candles, as shown by the "opening" - exactly the same were from the factory. 360r piece ... on priori I bought 4 candles for 200-250r))

The process has begun.

the secret is revealed why the dealer did not remove the protection when changing the oil. The bolt on the right is scrolling. As a result, it was decided to change the mortgage piece, into which the bolt is screwed (I forgot the name), we will change it later. I am very sorry that being at the dealer I didn’t create a scandal and didn’t make them change it. And so - "quality" on the face. A year and a half, and the bolts cannot be removed. What did Suvfan say about Kalina? Obviously the steel is the same here.

We started with butter. I gave up Liquid Molly and switched to Lukoil. Genesis 5-40, picked up at Deacon.

This is how the liquidation-molly merged, after running about 7000 km on it. At first there was this color of oil, then it flowed darker.

We moved on to the fuel filter. The old one was sprayed with VDshka to easily remove

For me, as a former Priorovod, this arrangement of air and throttle is unusual.

On this side, the throttle is clean, on the back - not. I didn't clean it, because you need to google how it's done.

This is what the old air looked like.

There are also ignition coils, though of a different shape and a different price. And here is the pulp, candles. All addicts to change candles are dedicated to the regulations. Pay attention to the gap, especially when compared to a new candle. On this site, I often saw messages that there was no need to change the candles before the schedule, someone even reproached me for being too extravagant when I changed the candles every 20,000 km on the prior (against the 30,000 schedule).

Next, it was necessary to reset the maintenance interval, I did it according to the instructions from the drive: "The actions are as follows: we hold down the button on the dashboard (I remind you that since the 2016 model year there is only one button on the tidy and the algorithm for resetting intervals is slightly different), while holding the button, turn on the ignition. Release the button. The offer to reset the maintenance interval will be displayed, pressed the button - confirmed ".

Despite the replacement of oil and candles, no difference was noticed in the operation of the car) The total cost was: consumables: 2930r + oil 1600r, work 1260r \u003d 5790r, which is three times cheaper than the dealer's.

The fuel filter is an important element in the fuel supply system to the engine, which is installed between the car's gas tank and the pump leading to the engine. The functional purpose of the filter is to clean gasoline from dirt, small abrasive particles, as well as paraffins and various additives that may be contained in the fuel.

Neglecting to replace a faulty fuel filter degrades the quality of gasoline supplied to the internal combustion chamber, which negatively affects both the engine power and the operating life of the components.

Which fuel filter is best?

The design of the filters differs according to the type of fuel being filtered and the differences in the injection system. Skoda Rapid can be equipped with both a carburetor and an injection version of filters that purify gasoline or liquefied gas in the case of installing gas equipment. The design of the car provides for the installation of two treatment systems, namely:

• Submersible filters are a complex structural purification system that is installed inside the fuel tank. The functional significance lies in coarse filtration. Replacing the device is not difficult;
• Main filters - included in the pipeline from the gas tank to the fuel pump and are elements of spot cleaning. Depending on the degree of purification, in-line filters can remove both fine dirt and synthetic fats or oils diluted in fuel.

On Skoda Rapid, the best option would be to install filters of both types, which will increase the quality of the fuel supplied to the engine.

Overview of fuel filters for Skoda Rapid: analogues and original components

The manufacturer recommends replacing the fuel filter every 60,000 kilometers or 2 years after installation, which will guarantee maximum cleaning quality. It is also important to know that filters on different Rapid series are not interchangeable and differ depending on the engine size.

Note! It is recommended to select fuel filters by the VIN number of the vehicle or by checking the part numbers for compatibility on the manufacturer's official website - otherwise there is a risk of purchasing an unsuitable device that does not provide the proper filtration quality.

Replacing the fuel filter on a Skoda Rapid with your own hands

You can install a new filter on the Skoda Rapid on your own, without resorting to outside help. For repairs from tools, you will need a set of wrenches, a set of slotted and Phillips screwdrivers, pliers, a clean rag or a soft brush for cleaning accessories.

In order to replace the fuel filter, you must:

1. Drive the vehicle onto a lift or a viewing hole, you can also jack up the front of the car, having previously installed the locking stops under the wheels. The fuel filter is located on the bottom under the rear passenger seat - in this area the entire scope of work will be performed - this must be taken into account when staging the car;
2. Next, open the hood and put it on the stop, then disconnect the "negative" terminal from the battery in order to turn off the power supply;
3. After that, under the fuel pump, we find the fuse and take out the part in order to relieve pressure in the system and not spray the components with gasoline;
4. The filter is secured by a plastic latch that locks onto a Phillips screw. We clean the part from dirt with a brush and dismantle it. At the end of the procedure, the filter will freely mix in the plane and it will only be necessary to remove the fittings: a couple of pieces on each side;
5. In order to remove the fittings, you need to press the release button, and pull out the part with pliers. After dismantling, we drain the gasoline from the fittings and the filter - now you can start installing new components;
6. Having installed a new fuel filter, we drive the fittings to a characteristic crack. If the part is not attached, then the fittings are damaged and you need to replace the parts with new ones. Then we tighten the bolts and the installation is complete.

Note! When installing the fuel filter, it is important to ensure that no dirt or small abrasive objects get into the device. The best option would be to replace the filter in the garage, where there is no risk of dirt and dust entering the system due to wind.

In case of contamination of the spare part, it is recommended to rinse the device with technical alcohol and dry it - neglect of cleaning significantly shortens the operational life of the part.