All the latest models of front-wheel drive cars, which are produced by the car plant located in Togliatti, have a timing belt in the timing mechanism. Lada Granta fully refers to these models.

The car is equipped with several engine modifications, which can have 8 or 16 valves in the cylinder head. Many owners service and repair this model on their own, so it will be useful for them to learn about how to change the timing belt on a Lada Granta with 8 valves.

Lada Granta engines with 8 valves in the cylinder head have an index of 11183 and 11186. The first of them began to be produced in 2004, the second later, namely in 2011. The power of the "83" unit is 82 horses, at 87 hp for the "86" modification. The 11186 motor is an improved model 83 engine. It uses a lightweight connecting rod-piston group. It was possible to achieve a reduction in the mass of the piston group by almost 30%. The cylinder head is subjected to specific heat treatment, which increases its strength and durability.

And also the cooling system of the power unit received some changes. The skirts of lightweight pistons are coated with graphite grease, this avoids the appearance of scoring on the cylinders of an unheated engine. The compression ratio "86" of the engine was 10.5 against 9.6 for the "83" modification. The cylinder head gasket of the new engine is now thinner, it is equal to 0.43 mm versus 1.2 on the old model. The diameter of the intake valves was increased, which improved the filling of the cylinders with the air-fuel mixture.

Does the valve fold

This problem, unfortunately, is present for Lada Granta. It appeared from the moment the production of the first cars with front-wheel drive VAZ 2108 began. Later the working volume of the power unit of this model was increased, it became equal to 1.5 liters. The engine index became 21083, in which the pistons have a notch in the head. This made it possible to exclude the meeting of the pistons with the valves when the toothed belt breaks in the timing drive or if it is incorrectly installed. This particular power unit was taken as the basis for the engine for Grants, so the valves did not bend.

The upgrade of this motor to model 11186 provides for the installation of lightweight parts of the connecting rod and piston group. The piston has become shorter in height, which does not allow making recesses in the head to avoid meeting with the valve. Therefore, a break of the toothed belt is always accompanied by damage to the valves on the 8 valve Grant, sometimes connecting rods, pistons. This problem accompanies all subsequent modifications of engines for Lada Grant.

Replacement procedure

Many owners of this car prefer to carry out this operation in specialized workshops, but some do it themselves. There is nothing super complicated in this procedure, there is no need to purchase special equipment or devices. You can replace the toothed belt in the garage yourself. You will need to prepare a set of wrenches, a mounting spade, a jack, a support for the body, chocks, gloves, and rags. Use round nose pliers as a key for adjusting the tensioner roller.

Replacing the timing belt on the Lada Grant is performed in approximately the following sequence:

1. The car is installed above the inspection pit or on a flat surface, the handbrake cable is tightened, and chocks are installed under the rear wheels.
2. Open the hood of the engine compartment, disconnect the terminals from the battery.
3. The drive belt of the generator set will interfere with work, so it is removed.
4. Now "5" with the number of the hexagon unscrew the four screws that secure the front protective casing of the timing drive.
5. To avoid accidentally damaging the crankshaft position sensor, it should be removed from the cylinder head and set aside. Do not allow metal filings to come into contact with the sensor, they can further distort its readings.
6. Next, you need to set the piston of the first cylinder to the top dead center position.
7. Removal of the toothed belt is prevented by the alternator drive pulley on the crankshaft, which must be removed. To do this, rip off the wheel bolts of the right front wheel, raise the body with a car jack.
8. A stand is installed under the body, the wheel is removed, the protective shield is on the mudguard.
9. An assistant is needed to remove the crankshaft pulley. Ask him to put in fifth gear and push the brake pedal hard. Some specialists insert a powerful screwdriver into the hatch on the gearbox cover between the flywheel teeth.
10. Applying some effort to the head "17" unscrew the bolt, remove the pulley from the crankshaft.
11. Again, you need the fifth hex number, which you need to unscrew the three screws of the lower timing case, then you can remove the protection.
12. Now it is necessary to loosen the tension roller fixing bolt, the “15” spanner wrench is best for this. After that, the roller will turn, release the tension on the drive belt, which can be easily removed from the toothed gears and removed from the engine compartment.

Important! After that, you can not turn the engine crankshaft so that the pistons do not meet the valves.

Usually, the belt is replaced in conjunction with the idler roller and the coolant pump, so they must be removed from the cylinder block. There is an adjusting washer under the roller, which is installed back during assembly. When removing the pump, a certain amount of antifreeze is poured into a previously prepared container. The installation of a new timing belt is carried out in the reverse order. Please note that you need to check the position of all alignment marks on the crankshaft and camshaft, the cylinder block and the timing case.

Setting labels

This is an important procedure when replacing the timing belt, so it must be taken seriously. This motor has four timing marks in the timing drive. Two on the crankshaft and camshaft gears, one on the cylinder block in the area of \u200b\u200bthe crankshaft, the last on a metal protective casing. Two more marks are located on the flywheel and gearbox housing. They will be clearly visible when the rubber plug is removed. It is the marks of the flywheel and the box casing that will indicate the position of the piston of the first cylinder at top dead center.

Turn the crankshaft with a “19” wrench clockwise until all marks of the mechanism match. The tapered groove or tide mark on the camshaft pulley will be horizontal and aligned with the lip on the guard. The mark on the crankshaft pulley will look strictly vertical and coincide with the mark on the cylinder block.

Tension

The installed new toothed belt must be tensioned to the required parameters. Before that, be sure to check the position of the alignment marks again, if everything is in order with them, you can tension the drive. To do this, turn the tension roller counterclockwise until the marks on it coincide. One notch-like mark is on the outer cage, the second on the inner one in the form of a ledge. You can turn the tension roller with a special wrench, round-nose pliers.

Some craftsmen insert drills suitable in diameter into the holes on the movable part of the roller. Between them, a screwdriver as a lever and turn the clip until the marks coincide. Then you can tighten the tension roller fixing screw. After all the work has been done, it is necessary to manually turn the crankshaft a few revolutions, making sure that the marks have not moved. Then you can install the protective cover.

How long does it take to replace

The factory operating manual for the car recommends replacing the toothed belt with a mileage of 75 thousand km. This norm is not always fulfilled by the owners; there are good reasons for this. How long the drive takes before replacement depends on many factors. This is the quality of the parts used, the operating conditions of the vehicle, the technical condition of the engine. At each maintenance, the tension and condition of the timing drive should be checked. When cracks, delamination, or other damage appear, the belt is changed.

With a high mileage of the machine, natural wear of the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys occurs, this significantly reduces the service life of the entire timing drive. And also the drive is afraid of engine oil getting into the belt operation zone. It softens its structure, the teeth are easily cut. If the car has been standing still for a long time, it is also better to replace the drive due to aging. Most owners, experts recommend changing the belt after a run of 50 thousand km.

Which kit to buy

In addition to the toothed belt, a tension roller and a coolant pump are purchased. The main supplier of industrial rubber goods is the RTI plant in Balakovo. Products from the companies GATES, BOSCH, DAYCO, CONTITECH have proven themselves well. If the pump in the engine cooling system is replaced, you will need antifreeze to top up.

Dear customers, in order to avoid mistakes when sending ptiming belt POWER GRIP 5050 XS , in the line "Comment" indicate the model, year of manufacture of your car andnumber of valves, engine displacement.

The simplicity of the design lies in the fact that rotation is transmitted from one shaft to another with the help of this part. Each type of engine has its own design features, therefore belts are produced differently.

Their differences are assessed by the following parameters:

Length;

Width;

Number of teeth.

The part is under heavy loads, so it must be strong, elastic, and ensure good interaction with pulleys and rollers.

High strength polyester belt cord"GATES »Increases the belt's ability to withstand heavy loads, maintains stable belt tension and provides excellent belt length stability. The upper part of the fabric layers provides elasticity and flexibility. Premium Fiber Reinforced Chloroprene Rubber (strong fiber optic tension strands are spirally laid for increased flexibility and tensile strength), gives the belt oil, heat, and wear resistance and prevents sludge build-up.

Thanks to the successful design, they retain their length throughout the entire service life.

Main technical characteristics

The timing belt profile is trapezoidal, meets the requirements of the US, UNECE and Russian GOST standards. The main dimensions of the belts are indicated on the packaging.

The toothed belt has an internal profile of 113 projections (teeth), 17 mm wide.

During the production process, all belts undergo 100% quality control in terms of geometric dimensions and control tensile strength. All stages of production, as well as suppliers of component materials are certified for compliance with the requirements of ISO 9001. Identical technologies and materials are used in the production of timing belts, which are supplied to assembly lines VAZ, GAZ, UAZ, General Motors, Ford, Daimler-Chrysler, Toyota, Honda and other car manufacturers.

The optimal combination of materials allows to achieve high wear resistance of belts, low noise level. Also the belts"GATES »The US can handle a wide range of tensioning forces without significantly compromising durability, reducing the risk of belt failure due to improper tensioning.

Estimated service life of timing belts"GATES »USA - 125,000 km or 2 years.

Monitoring the tension and condition of timing belts must be carried out at each scheduled maintenance of vehicles.

Before replacing the timing belt, you need to check and pay attention to the following:

If the belt is damaged, it needs to be replaced;

Check the degree of tension;

The belt must be dry and clean.

There is a tension roller in the design, the whistle may be due to its wear. Replacing the part completely solves the problem.

If the cause cannot be determined, the belt should be replaced with a part from another manufacturer.

A break in the timing belt can be caused by the following factors:

Natural wear and tear (operation was carried out over the established period);

The part was originally defective;

Malfunction of pulleys, shafts, tensioners;

Excessive or insufficient belt tension.

The bearing is the most vulnerable part that often fails. After the belt is removed, it is easy to diagnose the bearing failure.

Off-center roller. When rotating, the belt is tensioned, the degree of tension is fixed with a bolt.

It is important to monitor the condition of the timing belt tensioner roller It is the roller that makes the tension level of the belt drive optimal.

It is necessary to check the condition of this part, if necessary, make repairs.

There are three tension options:

Insufficient;

Excessive;

Normal.

Other articles of goods and their analogues in catalogs: 21116100604000,5050 XS.

VAZ 2190.

Any breakdown - this is not the end of the world, but a completely solvable problem!

How to replace the timing belt yourselfby car of the Lada Granta family.

With the Internet Shop AvtoAzbuka repair costs will be minimal.

Just COMPARE and MAKE SURE !!!

In today's test, we will focus on the most important drive in a car - the timing drive, or timing. We will test timing belts for the most popular car on the Russian market - Lada Granta with an 8-valve 21116 engine and its modifications (a round-toothed belt with 113 teeth and a width of 17 mm).

The tests will take place in two stages: bench and resource.

The first is divided into several tests, but the results of the resource test will be known only by the end of summer. So, let's see.

During a search in stores, it turned out that in our region you can buy this belt from only three manufacturers: ContiTech, Gates and Trialli.

The first two belts can be purchased separately, only the Trialli is sold as a tensioner pulley repair kit.

Continental CT 1164

Producer: ContiTech Antriebssysteme GmbH (Germany)

Price: 800 rubles

Belt in branded cardboard packaging, on the box - a sticker with a QR code. The kit includes a sticker indicating the date of replacement and mileage, as well as which of the nodes - the roller, belt, pump - were replaced. It is convenient: you will not need to suffer to remember when the last belt change was made and what exactly was replaced. On the belt, in addition to brand and general designations, a batch number is applied.

Gates 5670XS

Producer: Gates Corporation (Belgium)

Price: 1100 rubles

Belt in branded cardboard packaging, there is a QR code and a holographic sticker to protect against forgeries. The belt is individually numbered on the outside. The set includes a sticker for filling, where you must enter the serial number of the product, individual for each belt, and the date of replacement.

Trialli GD 790

Manufacturer: Trialli S.L.R (Italy, developed under the supervision of Carville LLC in China)

Set price: 1900 rubles (1000 rubles + 900 rubles video)

The belt is sold only as a repair kit along with a tension roller, the whole kit is packed in a cardboard box with a plastic insert inside. The belt comes with a sticker with the mileage and date of replacement, as well as a warranty card with instructions on how to replace the belt - this is a plus.

Test procedure

Strength tests of belts were carried out in the testing laboratory of PJSC NPO Zavod Volna on tensile testing machines R-10 and MR-05.

Frost resistance and endurance tests were carried out in the testing laboratory of NPO Talis.

The testing of the timing belts was carried out in accordance with TU 38.1051912-90 "Toothed belts with a parabolic tooth profile for engines of VAZ vehicles". The factor of the parabolic profile standard for belts with a rounded profile in this case is not significant, since the tested belts are actually intended for the good old "eight" engine, which means that the forces transmitted by the timing belt remained at the same level.

The first test was the bending resistance of the belts. This test uses a smooth pulley with a diameter of 50 mm. One belt of each type undergoes an artificial aging procedure, which is carried out as follows: the belt is placed in a heat chamber with a temperature of 120 degrees and kept for 70 hours. The other belt is frozen together with the pulley at -45 degrees for 24 hours.

After the belts are removed, and they are bent over a smooth pulley with teeth outward 180 degrees. Breaks and cracks are not allowed in the bend zone. The frozen belt is bent on the pulley previously cooled with the belt.

All belts passed this test.

At the next stage, we checked the strength properties of the belts.

First, the belts were tested for breaking force. According to the standard, the minimum breaking strength of the belt should be at least 8 kN / cm for a new belt and 7 kN / cm for a belt that has undergone artificial aging. Thus, with a belt width of 17 mm, the minimum breaking force should be at least 13 600 N, and for artificially aged ones - at least 11 900 N.

This test is carried out as follows: the belts are installed with their teeth outward on smooth cylindrical pulleys and stretched at a speed of 50 ± 15 mm / min until they rupture on a P-10 tensile testing machine.

The results of tensile tests are given in Table 1.

As can be seen from the test results, all belts have a good margin of cord strength (1.43 to 1.8 before aging and 1.68 to 2.1 after aging). Continental CT 1164 has the strongest cord: it can withstand loads of up to 2.5 tons.

But in a belt, cord strength is not the most important indicator. Therefore, as a second strength test, the tooth resistance to tearing of new belts and artificially aged belts was checked. This indicator should be at least 92 kgf for every centimeter of belt width - both new and old. Knowing that the width of the tested belts is 17 mm, we obtain a force of 156.4 kgf.

This test is carried out using a special tool that has a toothed pulley with a tooth profile corresponding to the tested belt. The device contains a calibration spring, which presses the belt through the metal plate to the toothed pulley with the required force, in our case it is 119 N. The belt is cut, one end is installed in the device so that the fifth tooth from the top of the cut belt falls into the pulley socket. The lower end is fixed in the clamp, and the MP-05 tensile testing machine pulls down on it.

The results of this test are shown in Table 2.

On the new belts, the cut of the teeth did not occur: the rubber is still plastic, the tooth is simply deformed and jumps over. But for aged belts on their "strengthened" teeth there is a cut of the tooth - this is what happened with the Continental CT 1164 and Trialli GD 790; Gates 5670XS had a tooth deformity and jumped over. The test results show that all belts have good shear strength (from 1.95 to 2.43 before aging and from 2.1 to 2.51 after aging). The most resistant to cutting a tooth was the Trialli timing belt.

Some may find it strange that the strength increases after artificial aging. This is due to the properties of heat-resistant rubbers, which are used to make belts: with prolonged heating, their internal bonds are strengthened.

According to statistics, replacing the timing belt tension rollers occurs more often than replacing the belt itself. Therefore, it is worthwhile to periodically listen if there is any noise from the rollers, because a failed roller will ruin the timing belt, no matter how good it is, which can lead to expensive engine repairs.

Resource test

To determine the resource of belts, there are special stands, one of which is located in the laboratory of OOO NPO Talis. This stand completely repeats the geometric arrangement of the nodes (pulleys and belt tension rollers) that come into contact with the drive belt when working on the engine, more precisely, when creating this stand, standard units were used, which are installed on internal combustion engines manufactured by VAZ. The stand is universal and provides for the possibility of installing belts, which are used for both 8-valve and 16-valve engines of front-wheel drive vehicles manufactured by Avtovaz. Also, by replacing the pulleys, it becomes possible to test belts with both a trapezoidal tooth shape and a semicircular one.

The belt is driven by a toothed pulley that rotates a 7.5 kW electric motor - it acts as a crankshaft, forcing all drive units to rotate using a timing belt. The belt is tensioned with a standard timing belt tension roller. The role of the camshaft is performed by an electric brake, which, when braking, creates a resistance of 27.5 N / m - this is a five-fold overload of the force that, during normal operation, transfers the timing belt in an 8-valve engine. Thus, we turn every hour of belt runtime at the stand into five hours of work on the car.

According to the test method TU 38.1051912 "Toothed belts for VAZ engines", the belt must run at least 100 hours, which turns into 500 hours of operation during normal engine operation. To fully simulate the working conditions, the space in which the timing belt operates is closed with a casing with thermal insulation installed in it, and the working area is heated to a temperature of +90 degrees - this requirement is not required by the TU, nor in any of the test methods known to us, but we decided complicate the job for the belt. When braking, an electromagnetic brake converts all the incoming rotational energy into heat and requires cooling, therefore an autonomous pressure cooling system is organized for the electric brake, which takes up no less space than the stand itself.

Test results

None of the timing belts we tested brought any surprises - all honestly worked the prescribed 100 hours at the stand. Upon examination after testing each timing belt, no damage was found that could indicate an imminent failure of any of the belts.

What's the bottom line?

According to the results of bench tests, it was not possible to identify a clear leader: in the tensile test, Continental turned out to be the winner, Trialli passed the tooth resistance test best of all. One way or another, all three subjects successfully passed the tests, showing good safety margins, which are almost twice the factory parameters. The Chinese belt, by the way, was not inferior to European counterparts, and even surpassed them in the tooth shift test. Any of the tested belts can be safely put on the car.

Continental CT 1164

The strongest cord of all belts we tested: the belt can lift a load of 2.5 tons - this is the weight of a good SUV. But at the same time, the resistance of the tooth to shear is slightly lower than that of the others (it exceeds the standard by 1.95 times), however, the cost of the belt in retail is lower than that of competitors.

Gates 5670XS

The most expensive belt, perhaps, is due to the fact that it is installed at the car plant to drive the gas distribution mechanism as a standard one. The smallest cord breaking force - 19500 N without aging and 20,000 N after (exceeds the standard by 1.43 times), the force on cutting the tooth is average among the subjects.

Trialli GD 790

The undoubted disadvantage of this belt is that it cannot be bought separately, without the rollers that come with it from the manufacturer. And together with the rollers, its cost rises to 1900 rubles. This belt has an average breaking force of 19,700 N without aging and 21,000 N after, but it turned out to be the most high-torque of all: one tooth will withstand a displacement force of up to 380 kgf.

Dear customers, in order to avoid mistakes when sending the belt tensioner bearing, in the "Comment" line indicate the model of your car, year of manufacture,number of valves.

On VAZ 21116 engines, a gas distribution mechanism drive with a tension roller is installed, thanks to this there is no need to check and adjust the timing belt tension, the service life of the belt itself is significantly increased.

Tensioner roller 3 located under the camshaft pulley 5. Designed to tension the timing belt and maintain it in the most stable position throughout the entire run. Moreover, we are talking here not only about the average indicator, but also about belt vibrations that need to be smoothed out.

1 - crankshaft toothed pulley; 2 - toothed pulley of the coolant pump; 3 - tension roller; 4 - rear timing belt cover; 5 - camshaft toothed pulley; 6 - timing belt; 7 - tide on the oil pump cover; A - mark on the crankshaft toothed pulley; B - mark on the tide of the oil pump cover;

C - protrusion on the rear cover of the timing belt; D - mark on the camshaft toothed pulley.

At the VAZ 21116 tension roller, the mounting hole is located eccentrically (offset from the center by 6 mm). Therefore, by turning the tension roller relative to the mounting stud, the timing belt tension is adjusted.

If, when the engine is running, you hear extraneous noise from the timing belt, then the tensioner roller has begun to make noise and will have to be changed. From time to time it is necessary to check the condition of the timing belt, if cracks appear on it or the belt is stretched, then it also needs to be changed.

If oil gets on the toothed belt, its service life will be significantly reduced. Failure of the teeth on the belt will result in incorrect valve timing and possibly serious engine damage. A broken belt will inevitably cause the engine to stall. Considering all this, on engines with an automatic tensioning mechanism, it is advisable to check the condition of the timing belt, and replace it if defects are found on it.

During installation, sharp bends of the toothed belt with a radius of less than 20 mm are not allowed, so as not to damage the cord.

Other articles of goods and their analogues in the catalogs: 21116100623800, T-02233, KT 100540.

VAZ 2190.

Any breakdown - this is not the end of the world, but a completely solvable problem!

Reasons for failure of the belt tensioner bearing Timing for a car of the VAZ family.

How to replace the belt tensioner bearing yourself Timing by car of the VAZ family (8 V).

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Just COMPARE and MAKE SURE !!!

We hang the right front wheel and turn on the fifth gear in the gearbox. Turning the wheel clockwise, we turn the engine crankshaft and inspect the timing belt. With normal belt tension ...

The surface of the toothed part of the belt should not have folds, cracks, undercuts of teeth and peeling of fabric from rubber. The underside of the belt should be free of wear, exposing the cords, and burn marks. The end surfaces of the belt should not be delaminated or frayed. If defects are found on the belt or a significant mismatch of the belt tension control elements (see photo above), the belt must be replaced. You should also change the belt to a new one if traces of engine oil are found on it (before installing a new belt, the cause of oil getting on the belt must be eliminated) or when replacing the coolant pump.

Attention! Failure of the timing belt (breakage and shearing of teeth) can lead to the valves sticking into the pistons due to the mismatch of the angles of rotation of the crankshaft and camshafts and, as a result, to expensive engine repairs.

We replace the timing belt in accordance with the maintenance regulations every 75 thousand kilometers or in case of defects on the belt.

Next, we should dismantle the alternator drive belt or the accessory drive belt.

To avoid damage to the crankshaft position sensor, remove it.

Before dismantling the belt, it is necessary to check the valve timing of the engine - set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC (top dead center) position of the compression stroke.

Before loosening the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley ...

Using the "17" head, unscrew the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley, ..

This will rotate the tension roller and release the belt tension. Remove the timing belt from the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys.

Attention! After removing the timing belt, do not rotate the crankshaft and camshafts to avoid the pistons sticking into the valves.

To remove the belt tension roller, unscrew the bolt of its fastening ...

The roller should rotate quietly, evenly and without jamming. Otherwise, the roller must be replaced. At the same time, you can check the serviceability of the coolant pump by twisting and shaking it by the pulley. We install the tension roller in place, completely without tightening the bolt of its fastening. For different engine modifications, two threaded holes are made in the cylinder head for the tension roller bolt.

Install the timing belt in reverse order. Before installing the belt, make sure that the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks are aligned. We put the belt on the crankshaft toothed pulley, then ...

If necessary, turn the camshaft pulley in the direction of the smallest stroke until the belt teeth coincide with the pulley grooves. To tension the belt, turn the tension roller counterclockwise. To do this, we insert into the grooves of the outer disk of the roller ...

Such a key was used to adjust the belt tension in all front-wheel drive VAZs.

We tighten the belt by turning the belt tension roller counterclockwise ...

… Until the cutout of the outer disk of the roller coincides with the rectangular protrusion of its inner sleeve, and tighten the roller bolt to a torque of 34–41 Nm.

… Until the cutout of the outer disk of the roller coincides with the rectangular protrusion of its inner sleeve, and tighten the roller bolt to a torque of 34–41 Nm.

Excessive belt tension will reduce belt life, and the life of the coolant pump and idler roller bearings. Insufficient belt tension also leads to its premature failure and can cause a violation of the valve timing. We turn the crankshaft two turns clockwise. We check the belt tension and the coincidence of the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks. With the generator drive pulley removed, it is convenient to control the correct position of the crankshaft ...