Volkswagen Polo Sedan won't start. The battery is charged. When turned on, a click of the starter and silence are heard. Doesn't even twist. (Vladimir)

Hello Vladimir. In fact, there can be a lot of reasons why the Volkswagen Polo won't start. Now we will try to tell you in general what to do in such cases.

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Why won't the car start?

The malfunction in this case may be:

1. In the work of the oil pump. In practice, such cases are quite common. A malfunction of this element will make it impossible to start the engine.
2. Breakdown of the fuel pump.
3. No spark. This problem is also one of the most common. If there is no spark, it is necessary to check the performance of the spark plugs, as well as high-voltage wires suitable for them. It may also be a loose contact of the starter terminals, which will need to be cleaned and, in general, check the operation of the device itself. A broken starter will never allow the engine to start.
4. It will not be superfluous, as well as the device for the crankshaft position regulator.

The problem is most likely in the starter!

In any case, it will be most important to make a complete diagnosis of all systems of your vehicle. The procedure for a complete diagnosis of the on-board computer will identify all existing malfunctions, as a result of which you will know exactly what to do next. To do this, you need a test adapter, a dedicated cable, and a laptop.

1. The first step is to download and install the diagnostic software on your computer.
2. Having done this, you will need to connect the adapter to the laptop and at the same time to the diagnostic connector, which is located in the passenger compartment. In Volkswagen Polo Sedan cars, this connector is located on the left side and slightly below the steering column and is hidden by a plastic trim. Remove the cover and connect the cable to the outlet.
3. Once done, wait a few minutes for the program to synchronize the computer and the connector.
4. Then press "Start" or "Start" and the vehicle diagnostic procedure will start. Thus, the codes of all the faults present in the auto system will be read. You will need to decipher these codes in order to subsequently know what faults and errors they indicate.

Video "Diagnostics of the Volkswagen Polo via Bluetooth"

You can learn more about the wireless diagnostic process below.

For reading 8 min.

The main advantage of a new car is that it is new. There is no need to change "consumables" before the first maintenance, the body is perfectly "clean" without a single scratch, the chassis sits firmly at all levels, the engine runs like clockwork.

But the very moment comes when things go awry. Cars also age, and their old age is a snowball: small "troubles" over time turn into full-fledged problems that require real resuscitation of the "iron horse".

Each car has its own medical history. Some suffer from rapid wear of the chassis, others have difficulties with the electronics, and still others complain of problems with the engine and transmission.

The worst is when malfunctions occur in the components of the power plant. The motor is the most valuable "organ" of a car. Accordingly, the cost of repairing it is one of the highest.

Engine operation is directly dependent on the ignition system. Thanks to her, it is possible to start the power plant. Failure of the starting system elements is a real nightmare for any motorist, especially for a beginner.

Imagine: get into the car early in the morning to go to work, turn the key in the ignition, try to start the engine, but it won't start! Repeat the procedure over and over, but it's all for nothing. Just heat with gasoline. You have to walk to the bus stop and go to work by public transport. The whole day is ruined.

Many car enthusiasts face this situation. There can be a lot of reasons for its occurrence. The first thought that should creep into the head of a motorist is whether the starter works? And also how briskly it "turns".

Possible problems with poor engine starting

If the starter is not activated at all and the traction relay does not work, then two points of malfunction are possible: the starter itself is "dead" or there are violations in the electrical circuit. A rare occurrence - installed on a power circuit. Fortunately, Volkswagen Polo does not own such a device, so we exclude the possibility of fuse failure.

The reason for the lack of power is a dead battery or poorly tightened wires at the terminals. With the wires, everything is simple: we tighten them, and the power is restored. If the battery is at "zero", then one cannot do without outside help: we are looking for a good Samaritan who will give "a light".

Sluggish starter work is also not good. It is a sign of poor battery charging. Therefore, we either charge the battery or replace it with a fresh one.

The vigorous operation of the starter eliminates battery-related causes. The drooping motorist faces two other problems. The first is in a plane called the ignition system. The second lies in the fuel supply system.

The first problem is most common. The engine won't start because there is no spark. There is only one question - in which part of the system did the problem occur?

For the procedure, you will need a Torx T45 wrench, a 5 Allen key and fine forceps:

1. Dismantle the oil sump. To do this, remove the engine splash shield and drain the oil from the lubrication system. We remove the flywheel shield and unscrew the twenty fasteners of the crankcase itself. Gently knock on the edges of the crankcase with a rubber hammer and disconnect the part.
2. Then we dismantle the pump sprocket protection and the tensioner spring in its drive.
3. Unscrew the bolt securing the tensioner to the cylinder block and remove the component.
4. Then remove the pump sprocket by carefully unscrewing the bolt.
5. Finally, unscrew three more screws holding the pump casing and remove the part.
6. In place of the old one, we put a new oil pump and assemble everything in the reverse order.
7. We fill the tank with oil and check if the car starts.

A fresh oil pump for the Polo sedan, just brought from a German plant, costs about 12,000 rubles. A worn-out copy can be purchased at a price several times cheaper. It all depends on the mileage of the car.

Replacing a failed fuel pump

Replacing the fuel pump on the Polo sedan will also cost a pretty penny. A malfunction in this unit is one of the common reasons why a car will not start.

An electric fuel pump, through the injection system, pumps a certain amount of fuel to the engine injectors, which is necessary to start the power plant and move the machine. The service life of a device depends on many criteria. Among them, an important role is played by the quality of the fuel received at the filling station, as well as the amount of dirt entering the system. The main signs of a clogged pump, in addition to the engine not starting, are unpleasant sounds in the engine, which from time to time starts to stall.

The principle of the fuel pump is simple. The device uses a special float, which is lowered as the fuel level in the tank decreases. A potentiometer that responds to float maneuvers increases the resistance of the sensor while simultaneously decreasing the voltage on the needle indicating the amount of fuel on board. The more the voltage drops, the closer the "0" mark becomes.

When dismantling a faulty fuel pump, you should be aware that gasoline vapors contain toxic substances that are harmful to the human body. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out work outdoors.

The sequence of actions for replacing the fuel pump on the Polo sedan:

1. We dismantle the battery.
2. We remove the cover at the bottom of the trunk.
3. To separate the pump from the sensor, you need to unscrew the fasteners located on the sides of the device with a small screwdriver.
4. We loosen the pipe clamp and remove both types: supply and return.
5. We close the holes of the tubes.
6. Unscrew the union nut 3217 with a special wrench. The device costs a lot (around 2,000 rubles!), So you can use a wooden peg and a hammer instead: we substitute the end of the "piece of wood" to the edges of the nut and lightly beat it with a hammer.
7. We take out the gasket and metal flange from the neck of the tank.
8. Disconnect the fuel pump from the bayonet shutter and remove it.
9. When reassembling, the following points should be taken into account: before installing a new fuel pump, the O-ring must be moistened with engine oil; the fuel sensor should not get damaged, and it should "look" towards the pipelines.

The original VAG fuel pump for the Polo sedan costs from 11,000 rubles. Its code number is 6rf 919 051 d. The pleasure is expensive, but you can't change the filter!

If an uneven hum appears in the engine, accompanied by a loss of car power and an increase in fuel consumption, then there are clear signs of wear on the fuel filter. Such a thing is inexpensive. The original will cost the owner of the sedan 1500 rubles. A similar sample of the popular Filtron brand costs about 1000 rubles. Agree, there is a difference: either buy a whole fuel pump for more than 10,000 rubles, or purchase for 1,000 rubles. a fuel filter that will not only save the unit's resource, but also increase its service life.

At the end of the "fuel" topic, it is worth noting another culprit of the problem, why the engine does not start. It is the fuel pressure regulator.

The main idea of \u200b\u200bthe device is to maintain the required pressure in the injectors, which changes depending on the operating mode of the power plant.

The pressure is not difficult to check: we connect the pressure gauge between the fuel hose and the fitting, while disconnecting the vacuum wire. With proper operation, the pressure in the system should rise. If this does not happen, then we change the vacuum hose and again check the value with a pressure gauge. If there have been no changes, then now we know where the dog is buried - we are replacing the regulator.

Thus, the main problem areas, due to which the "German" does not start, are the ignition, fuel injection and oil pressure regulation systems.

Your technical equipment must be impeccable - after all, the time that you have is the same money that, we hope, you also have. Do not lose either one or the other. If you know where a missing tie or an iron-burned leg can cause a business meeting to be disrupted, then what can we say about a car that does not want to start an hour before the scheduled negotiations.

In the early morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans (a child - to school, a wife - to a hairdresser, and he himself - to forge a labor penny), you jump into the car, "the key to start" and ... What the hell ... One more time. More ... Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is ruined from the start. Plans and mood - down the drain.

Take it easy. There is no need to rush under the hood in an English suit and, smearing an oily mud with a tie, try to make a diagnosis. Most likely, it won't cure in 5 minutes. Take another car, and leave the treatment of a sick friend until the evening. And it is better to entrust it to doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have an expensive car and you are not a specialist. It will be cheaper this way. Well, if your friend is well known to you and you consider yourself a healer - well, try it yourself, if you are not too lazy to get dirty or there is no other way out.

The diagnosis should be started calmly.

Examine the symptoms mentally. First, is the starter turning? And if so, how cheerful? You already know the answer - remember what happened when you first tried to start the car. If you don't remember, try again.

If the starter does not turn at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice given above: "Take another car ..."), or trouble with the battery - disconnected or sat down. Only in rare models, the starter power circuit can be protected by a fuse - a kind of 300 ampere - it is easy to find, especially if you know in advance where it is. If the battery is to blame, then, as a rule, all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case is that one of the terminals has fallen off or got dirty, but the battery is in order. Tighten the terminal fixings on it and on the starter (if any). If it turns out that the battery is completely empty (you forgot to turn off the headlights for the night), you can still leave. But with outside help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start from a push, from a slide or from a tug. Do not try to get around the pitfalls: a car with an automatic transmission or electronic fuel injection (if there is an electric gas pump) cannot be started by these methods. We'll have to light a cigarette at the neighbor's. However, in some machines this can lead to damage to the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If you twist the starter, but sluggishly (it happens in the summer, in the winter it is a subject of a separate conversation), most likely the battery is almost completely discharged. This will be seen by the weak headlights or weak signal. In this case, the above options for outside help come into play.

If the starter turns briskly, and the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, feel free to exclude everything related to the battery from further reflections. Blame the ignition or fuel supply system, you can't go wrong. When diagnosing and treating each of them, a systematic approach is required. Better to start with ignition - there are more problems there. Especially in wet weather.

A spark will ignite ...

So, we must look for a spark. Your car may be equipped with a classic (simplest) contact ignition system, a rather complex electronic contactless, or some combination. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part one is low-voltage (breaker contacts in a classic system or a special sensor in an electronic one, plus a box with electronic filling that forms a spark). Part two - a step-up transformer, called the ignition coil in the world. Part three is high-voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires through which high-voltage current is supplied to the candles). And naturally, the candles themselves. The inspection of all this economy must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.

Stage one... High-voltage part of the system. Check if there is a spark on the center wire - this is the one that connects the coil to the distributor. The wire tip must be removed from the distributor cover, brought closer to any part that has good contact with the vehicle ground (whether it is painted or not, it does not matter), and secured so that a gap of 5-7 mm remains between the tip and the selected part.

If the ignition of your car is electronic, the wire must be fastened especially securely - if it falls to the ground, the electronics will instantly order to live a long time. For the same reason, you cannot strike a wire over the body. We also do not recommend holding it with your hand, not even with your own - it will shock you great.

Stage two. Crank the engine with a starter. While doing this, watch what happens at the tip of the wire. There are two possibilities. More favorable - there is a spark. Powerful with a loud click. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.

The first step is to remove the distributor cover. It can be damp and dirty under it. A spark readily slips along such a "conductor" anywhere, just not where it should be. Wipe up, scrub and dry. At the same time, it is harmless to clean the distributor contacts, for example, with a fine sandpaper. Examine the so-called "slider". If you find a dark trace of electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cover, the part will have to be changed.

Check the wires going from the distributor to the candles in the most biased way. The wires and their ends must be dry and clean. If, in your opinion, everything is in order with them, you can put the cover back in place, restore the connections and try to start the engine. If the malfunction was hidden under the cover, the engine will start or, in the worst case, at least start to sneeze. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you have to turn out, clean and dry the candles - in your attempts to start the engine, you filled them with gasoline. If the engine doesn't even sneeze, the spark plugs will still need to be removed, cleaned, and inspected. Easier if you have a spare kit.

If you have already gotten to the stage of turning out the spark plugs, you can quite effectively (and effectively) check the entire ignition system as a whole. Having connected high-voltage wires to the inverted candles, collect the candles in a bundle, like carrots, and wrap the bare soft wire right along their threaded part. Make sure the wire is in contact with each spark plug but not touching the center electrodes. Connect the free end of the wire to ground. Having placed a bunch of candles in a place convenient for observation from the passenger compartment, turn the engine with a starter. At the same time, cheerful sparks should slip between the electrodes of the candles in turn (in accordance with the order of operation of the cylinders). If so, then the entire ignition system is in order. In this case, the sound of the engine will be very unusual - do not be alarmed, because it is spinning with the candles turned out. Do not twist for a long time. Worse, if at the second stage of the check there is another option: there is no spark between the central wire and the "body". So, it's not about high-voltage circuits. Further searches will be more difficult, evaluate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if there is voltage to the ignition coil. This is easy to do with a tester, and if not, you can use the engine compartment light. True, you need a couple of wires to connect it to the coil. In a classic ignition system, you need to connect a light bulb between ground and the input of the primary winding.

In the third stage, As usual, two options are also possible: the coil is either energized or not. If it is supplied, the coil is to blame - a breakdown or short circuit, which, however, happens extremely rarely. The coil will have to be changed. Bad contact is more common in attaching the wires to the coil. Or the same wet mud, through which the spark flows away to no one knows where. Sometimes the coil is polished to a shine, but there is an invisible very narrow strip of dirt under it - a good conductor.

If at the third stage you made sure that the voltage is not supplied to the coil, the electronics or contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. You cannot cope with electronics (a switch and, less often, a sensor in the valve housing) - special equipment is needed to diagnose them. You can only pull the sensor connector on the distributor housing - it suddenly helps. If you have a car with a classic contact ignition system, you can look further.

Remove the cover from the distributor and inspect the breaker contacts - they can oxidize, especially if the machine has been stationary for some time. Contacts must be carefully cleaned with a thin sandpaper or a special file.

Tug the cleaned contacts so that they close and open. The voltage across them is only 12 volts, so you can tug without fear. If the cleaning does not help and the voltage is still not applied to the coil, we again advise you to stop trying to resuscitate the car for a while, as further difficulties will begin.

If the voltage appears (when you twitch the contacts, the light blinks), restore everything that has been loosened and disassembled, start the car and, perhaps, will still have time for its business. If it does not start, but even sneezes, turn out the candles and ... (see above).

Don't press to the floor - won't help

It may also happen that the entire ignition system was checked, everything is in order in it, and the engine, even if you crack, still will not start. This means that problems with another of the systems mentioned earlier - the power system, i.e. e. supplying fuel to the engine.

If you have a car with fuel injection (injection system), do not touch it (the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was she who broke down: there is a spark, the fuel is suitable - it means that she is darling. Treatment only in a hospital. At home and at handicraftsmen, it is useless and even harmful to repair it.

In a conventional carburetor engine, the fuel system is simpler - a tank, a gas pump, a set of pipes and a carburetor. Here you can dig deeper yourself. The first step is to make sure that the gasoline goes into the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and press the manual fuel priming lever. If a fairly powerful jet of gasoline is hammered, everything is fine, it's time to move on to the carburetor. It so happens that gasoline is supplied to the carburetor regularly, but for some reason it does not enter it. If you have time and desire, remove the air filter, and then ask someone to sharply press the accelerator pedal. Or, you can pull the throttle cable sharply yourself. At the same time, look into the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you will not see anything): if a trickle of gasoline does not appear in the first diffuser, it means that it is not in the float chamber. It is not there because the valve needle is stuck or (it happens not very often) the fuel filter in the carburetor is completely clogged - it is located in front of the float chamber. Or the jets are clogged. The filter is purged by blowing, however, if you do not have the necessary skills, it is better not to mess with the carburetor innards at all, to deal with a jammed needle valve, clogged nozzles and other subtleties - let the specialists do it.

If there is a trickle in the diffuser, pay attention to the carburetor starting device - it often fails. On foreign cars, since about the 70s, automatic air damper control has been used. The device without your participation, depending on the engine temperature, closes or opens the damper as needed, enriching the mixture when the engine is started. If this automatics works, you can try manual manipulation of the air damper, but there are so many options here and there is no universal advice. Before starting the manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. The air filter may not be installed yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and with God (after returning the air filter to its place) .. If, when checking the fuel supply by the gasoline pump, it turns out that the gasoline does not come from the hose or the trickle is very thin, the cause must be looked for in clogged pipelines, a fine fuel filter or the gas tank itself - you can easily demonstrate your skill by pumping the gas line with a tire pump in the direction opposite to the movement of gasoline, i.e. e. from the carburetor to the tank. A booming, gurgling sound should be heard in the tank.

Everything is simple with a fine fuel filter. Although on almost all modern models it is made in a transparent case, the degree of its contamination cannot be visually determined. A dirty filter will allow the engine to start, but will prevent it from driving properly. If it is completely clogged, you will not start the engine. The most effective check: remove the filter and, if there is no new one, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example ballpoint pen casings, better transparent - you can see how the gasoline flows. Do not try to clean the filter - the sealed (or sealed) housing cannot be disassembled.

If you come to the conclusion that your car does not have a fuel pump, and there is no spare at hand - "Take another car ...".

We left the rare, but most unpleasant diagnosis for last. If the starter is working properly, you've already wasted a lot of time and made sure that the ignition and power supply are in good order, but the car still won't start - it's worth inspecting the camshaft drive belt. However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The difficulty is that you have to remove or at least partially bend the upper part of the plastic casing covering the belt. Perhaps the teeth of the belt were cut off - belts, like people, lose teeth from old age. In this case, the camshaft will not rotate and the engine will not run. It is clear that the toothless belt requires replacement (those who have a car with a camshaft chain drive are not in danger of this). The belt replacement procedure is not difficult, but troublesome. Carried out in a hospital. It's good if everything is limited to replacing only the belt, and not bent valves or the entire block head - this also happens.

Less freeloaders

It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since it is maintenance-free on most modern cars, it makes no sense to include operating instructions here. Let's give just a few additional tips on how to keep the battery viable for longer. Do not get carried away by stuffing your machine with additional energy consumers. The fact that a certain reserve is provided in the energy balance of the car, allowing two or three "freeloaders" to connect, does not mean that you can hang six horns and ten fog lights on the car - have a sense of proportion. In addition, if you connect unintended tweets yourself, there is a high probability of damage to the insulation. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified, surgical intervention in the wiring of a car sooner or later makes itself felt. Trouble.

If your battery is running low, try not to dull the engine during countless stops in the city. Nothing rapes a battery like frequent use of the starter.

And the last (this applies not only to the battery, but also to all electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire lugs must be dry and clean and fit well to their "destinations". Dirty, oily insulation sooner or later breaks through, and burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) reason for the failure of the ignition system. Or a fire.

We can stop at this. Meticulous motorists have undoubtedly noticed some superficiality in our advice. We admit that we deliberately do not want to go deep into the jungle. In order not to provoke you to self-medication - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain in the lower abdomen on the right does not mean that you yourself have to remove your appendix. But you must accurately describe the symptoms of appendicitis to the doctor. It helps the treatment a lot.

Group: Xenon

Group: Car alarm

Group: Xenon

Group: Car alarm

Group: Car alarm

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We are glad to welcome you to the online store " Car audio"which is in the city Dnepropetrovsk on the street. Space 1 15. Our entire assortment is high-quality acoustics for a car, car radios, head units, security systems and car alarms, video recorders, Internet tablets, rear and front view cameras, xenon, mechanical interlocks, parking radars, heated seats, amplifiers, optics, etc. ...

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