Electrical equipment of UAZ vehicles

Electrical circuits

Instrumentation and Alarm Devices

Generator

Lamps, headlights, lanterns

Connection of additional consumers

Other questions about electrical equipment

Electric winches - see the Equipment section

When modifying the fuse box, it must be borne in mind that the fuse must be the thinnest part of the entire circuit. ANY place behind it must be thicker, withstand a current MORE than its setting (overheating or knock-off by heat), for a short time (without destroying during the actuation time) the current of the EM clutch (however, for machines this is insignificant, this is never applied there with an automatic only for high-voltage systems) and, finally, in the case of a short circuit at the farthest point of the circuit, have a resistance small enough for the current in the circuit to EXCEED the setting of the fuse (for patomtp - the current of the thermal setting).
These are requirements from the PUE, but it is clear that exactly the same for the same reasons is applicable to low-voltage circuits, to a car.
Accordingly, it is impossible to hang everything at once on one big button, even though it will be 100A. The wires will burn and the button will not disengage. hang them on separate guards.
Fusible, thermal, whatever - if only for some. Because their setting is more than 20-30A, it simply cannot be, so much (long-term) wires in the bundle do not withstand see Selecting the cross section of the automotive wire If there are more consumers, divide them into different guards, the same headlights - one for the guard, the stove for your own, etc.

I put two standard blocks - 6 fuses, more than enough. One unit is powered only when the ignition is on, others are constantly. Advantages of a standard unit: you can use both wire and standard Volgov (Zhiguli) fusible links (just straighten it). Quite reliable fasteners for the fuse-link and the fuse itself, the cost of the inserts is a penny, not to mention the wire (an argument against very modern blocks and fuses for them). In general, it's a matter of taste. I like it when all the equipment is of the same type in the car.

From my experience it turns out like this:
if you leave the old block without making changes to the standard wiring, and you need a new (second) one for additional consumers installed by you, then it is better to use the Volgov block, put it somewhere in the salon.
It is good for the simplicity of replacing fuses, the ease of selecting their power (not only 10A, like a native wire, but also 12A and 14A and even 20A), etc.
Also, the regular has such a bug that if you push the fuse into it too hard. It can be short-circuited to the body "behind the block".
In addition, the Volgovsky fuses do not hang out in the sockets, the contact is more reliable and the wire does not end

There is an extremist option - to hang up an assembly of conventional 220V automatic machines. It works, and very effectively, and reversibly (bran - turned on byyuly), but it was too big. Here, some maniacs do just that, they are screwed right on the torpedo.

I set myself a Volgov ruler. But they are still not enough, I will put the second one. It is done like this: a large luminous plate, on it there is a line of fuses, on it all the relays (headlights, bibikalka) and interrupters (turn signals, wipers). It is not very convenient to bring the common bus, but I turned out like this: 2 contacts leave each fuse, I bent the neighboring ones and soldered them well, but I don't think this is reliable, in the future I will solder a thick copper rod. There were no doubts about the reliability yet - the contact of the fuses is flat and wide, it clamps very well. There is an idea to make an indication of a blown fuse in order to immediately see if everything is working properly, since each one leaves two contacts - hang an LED for each, but there are doubts whether it is necessary. Yes, I dragged this whole block into the salon. [Hippo 4x4]

UAZ Patriot (UAZ-3163)

Electrical vector diagrams 316X: (schemes were sent by Gudkov Victor)

Electrical circuits for cars,,, (error - three diodes in the generator, those that are on the common (to ground?), Must be turned over -) ( Attention! - very large size, about 1.7 MB each scheme, sent by Maxim Smirnov):

Wiring diagrams for cars (size 415K), (453K), sent by [Sergey AS])
Diagram of the engine control system (242K) UMZ-4213, UMZ-420, ZMZ-409, sent by [Sergey AS])

UAZ-3151 (31512, 31514, 31519)

UAZ-3159 (Bars)

By the way, I hope the lamps are not Taiwan or the Emirates? And then I bought somehow (I was young, green) such - beautiful, 100/90, super-duper, and then I measured the current with a tester and it turned out that they were 55/60, and even shone crookedly. But the German (Narva, Philips) thing - and the shine is cool and the quality is excellent - you change the lamp, and you don't need to adjust the headlights - everything remains exactly in its place. [Chief]

As an expert in this matter, I can say with confidence that it is not worth saving on light bulbs.
All automotive halogen bulbs fall into three main categories:
1st (cheap) - these are light bulbs made from g% # a, i.e. normal glass flask, low quality spiral metal, poor soldering.
2nd (expensive) - these are high-quality lamps, i.e. quartz glass flask, high-quality free of impurities metal spiral, neat stamping and soldering of the base.
3rd (fakes) - these are light bulbs made from materials of the first category, but neatly, and sold at prices slightly lower than the second.

The vast majority of car headlights are rated for 55 or 60/55 watt bulbs. The use of any other higher power is not advisable, since the increase in heating of such a lamp much exceeds the increase in illumination, which by the way is very small. In modern lamps, other methods are used to increase the luminous flux.

I have the last ones in both cars, PHILIPS VISION PLUS + 50%. In Niva, the light bulbs have survived countless baths (naturally, when turned on) and four or five sets of headlights, I don’t remember exactly how many. In UAZ they are going through the second set of headlights. And here and there the bulbs are working and are not going to die yet.

Yes, I want to add, it is always better to buy such bulbs as a set! And unfortunately, there are also fakes on them ... :-(
As far as I know, the "native" PHILIPS VISION PLUS has never been released in a transparent plastic container! Only in cardboard boxes (set of 2) or in a blister on cardboard (per piece).
Konstantin Martyanov March 2004 (http://www.auto.ru/wwwboards/uaz/0686/212047.shtml) How to improve standard lighting without using additional headlights

Halogen optics can be supplied. (For cars that don't have it - (U) ABC) For halogen headlights, optics must be with the H4 index. If H2, then the reflector will burn out over time. I installed H4 optics for myself, 90/130 lamps and turned on the power to the bulbs through the relay. The foot switch will not pull, it will burn out quickly, and there will be losses on all kinds of connections. And then I dragged the power supply to the relays with a thick wire (two reels hang on the front wall near the left headlight), from the relay to the lamp power supply (closest to one relay, farthest from the other) and used the old standard native wires as command wires for the relays. The light is beautiful, it shines far away, only occasionally the plastic case of the contacts leading to the lamp melts. Well, once every half a year, not more often.

After several experiments, I came to the conclusion that increasing the power of the lamps is not an option. Increases heating and generator load
I now have headlights with H4 optics and 100/90 lamps, but after installing additional headlights with optics from WWII (hella), I realized that domestic headlights are not very good. I installed two low-beam headlights from a BMW 5 Series in the back of an E12 (model of the 70s) - the result exceeded all expectations: the low-beam headlights with 55W lamps are several times better than the standard 90W b / s.
With the same energy consumption, Hell's headlights give 2 times more light output than ours.
Also, in my opinion, headlights from Volkswagen cars of the Golf family or the Transporter family may be suitable.
In addition, imported headlights have flat glass, which simplifies the task of removing and setting them behind the kangarin.

I came to buy light bulbs - I chose not the most expensive and not the cheapest. I paid, take it, open it and look - one is frankly a curve, the other is not a curve, but there is also something wrong in it. I notice something with my eye, but I cannot explain. I ask the seller to find direct. I have nothing to do, the seller too, he is well-fed and kind ... As a result of direct bulbs at a price of up to 30 rubles (an inexpensive store) we do not find at all. However, we do not find it for the price "up to 50" either. That spiral is crooked, then something else. Well, what is written on the light bulb "made in Germany" means nothing at all. I looked, I looked at this whole bunch, and I was tempted by normal German lamps of 85r. apiece - you take it in your hands and see that this product, even if it is not made in Germany (well, what is written that "made in germany" - no one can guarantee this anyway).
In the evening I went to install. I installed it, went into the pitch darkness, and then I understood why I had to adjust / unregulate the headlights before - anyway, the oncoming ones were blinded. IT IS IMPORTANT HOW THE BULB GIVES A BEAM. Even without adjustments, just after changing the bulbs, it was clear that the footprint on the ground became significantly "closer" to the car, even along the borders and uniform. In 5 minutes, everything was adjusted according to the book, drove around the area, then lowered the bunch a little more to the level when the light border begins "where the earth crawls out" from under the hood.
Yes, I put the usual 60/55 bulbs - and they will live longer and warm up like more powerful ones ...

For the second year I have had Phillips blue visions, I am very satisfied ... It seems that they dazzle oncoming people less (from the observation of friends), they give a kind of blue-white light, very different from the standard one for the better ...

In terms of endurance, the best I have found out of halogens is Tungsram 90/100 (Hungarian, I think), quite cheap. They have been with me since 1999. With them I have experience driving for about 2 weeks (including in the Rostov region in the rain and at night about 8 hours) with optics smashed by a stone. The light bulb is still alive, only wiped the dirt with a rag :-))) It is better to put a special optics under H4 (Zhiguli is suitable), without any adapters there. I also inserted the backlight bulbs there: on the one hand, it is effective :-))), on the other, when driving in light rain and fog (when the headlights are not particularly needed), the optics warms up, preventing condensation from settling inside itself.

Do not get carried away with lamps with a power of more than 55/60 W. The following reasons:

1. The use of lamps of higher power is prohibited in Europe on public roads and serious companies do not produce such lamps. Accordingly, there is no need to talk about any quality (lighting, first of all).
2. 90% - that the power of such a lamp (90 \\ 100 or more watts) does not actually correspond to the declared one.
3. Due to the low quality of workmanship, such lamps illuminate anything - flying helicopters, stars, blind oncoming drivers, just not the road. Although it may seem that the headlights shine brighter.
4. In addition, the visibility of objects for the human eye in the yellow spectrum is higher than in the blue, because it (yellow) is closer to natural sunlight. This is to the question of "painted" xenon

Diameter and headlight seats are unified:
Zhiguli (2101), Moskvich M408, IZH412, Niva, UAZ, GAZ 24-2410, ZAZ968, trucks GAZ, ZIL, Kamaz, Buses PAZ, LIAZ, LAZ, Kavz.
It is only necessary to remember that there are optics designed for halogen lamps and not designed. Also in some headlights there are holes for backlight lamps of gaabarit.
and Gasoline indicator switch

I have a fuel level sensor switch under my seat (I put it there so as not to pull the wires under the instrument panel) Trip computer for UAZ

For carburetor models, you will have to install a fuel consumption sensor and a speed sensor (as a rule, this is a pulse counter, which is placed in the gap of the speedometer shaft)

Fuel flow sensor

Trip computer

The tachometer (from the six) looks perfect next to (to the right) of the speedometer. The connection is standard - everything is written on the tach case. One - per coil (either low-voltage end). One - + 12V. One is mass. One is taha lighting. For fun, you can connect the parking brake light. The generator failure lamps will remain, but this cannot be connected without a relay. And the bulb of the open (closed) air damper of the carb. The last three are not connected to me, I don't want to mess around yet. He drilled the hole with a 2.5 mm drill in a circle less than the diameter of the tach circle by 3 mm, then finished it with a round file. The holes need to be screwed first. Do not press too hard with a drill! Otherwise, the panel will be wrapped on the last holes.

I wanted to bet from "Gazelle", since the six-speed one uses only 1/3 of the scale - the revolutions are not the same. And you can put it on the left side of the panel instead of the gear shift plates. Moreover, the arrow is clearer than digital and less inertial. [Michael and Punto]

Installed a tachometer 35.3813 (from Gazelle) (frameless). I took the body from the old speedometer, cut the tachometer scale to the diameter of the speedometer scale (at the same time, the numbers were cut off a little, but the readings are readable). It is important to keep a transparent light guide ring (from the speedometer) to illuminate the scale, without it the scale cannot be seen at night. The installation site can be seen in the photo. Connection diagram.

I just bought a tachometer from tidy 3110, it's so beautiful with backlit arrows and numbers. When trying a simple connection, nothing happened. After studying the faxes and docks, everything fell into place. It is connected like this: there are 3 contacts behind the tachometer, and 3 wires go to them: red (we connect it to the "+" of the ignition switch, I connected it to the "+" of the switch), blue (it to ground), and yellow (it must be through a 62 kOhm resistor with a power of at least 1 W is connected to the "short circuit" contact of the switch or to the ignition coil to the contact that is connected to the switch). Everything works. Yes, device index 449.3813. [Hippo 4x4]

Digital Multitronics, for example, the simplest option (only 3 wires): Power supply from a key (panel) and a wire on additional resistance (see the "Volga" section for instructions)
Burned a couple of times (either from unstable power supply, or such a design) - changed under warranty. Then the electricians made a fuse in it (on a pipette) and wound a coil (?) - additional resistance. While working ...
Very useful stuff - now the MAIN DEVICE. [Beard W]

The installation took 15 minutes. You don't need to drill anything. Fastened with Velcro. The installation location must be carefully selected. If you degrease it well, then you cannot tear it off by any force. I glued the same one on the 8-ke inconveniently. Then, when he was tearing it off, he broke the body of the device. Velcro is power! [Faun]
Photograph of a digital tachometer mounted on the steering wheel cover. [Chief]

It measures the engine speed (dual-range: when passing over 1500, the readings become coarse so that the numbers do not flicker), the air temperature in the cabin (or by the fence, if the sensor is thrown out into the street), shows the time, the temperature can be memorized and written into memory, i.e. it remembers the maximum and the minimum temperature per day and sets the time (it will be convenient in winter to see what happened to the UAZ at night). The brightness is adjustable in three positions so it is not annoying at night.

Electronic tachometers "die" periodically.
Perhaps this is due to high voltage wires (more precisely, with the distributed resistance of these): my electronic tachometer wanted to work only with "relatives" wires that originally stood on my long Goat.
Other sets of wires for UAZ, including
1) silicone,
2) black oak with thick copper veins,
3) red, almost similar to "native", but more rigid, with a thin copper vein
caused periodic glitches in the readings, which ultimately ended with the device freezing.

Basically nothing good:
the clock / alarm clock is inconvenient, the speed shows correctly only at a temperature of at least +5 C, then it starts to glitch, the numbers jump ... in general, it is better from 2106

It only makes sense if you need to know the established momentum. It is very braking, while 2000 on it can actually be from 0 to 3500. You need a switch ... Econometer for UAZ

The thing is necessary and useful, but this is not a device, but an indicator, that is, it shows exactly the vacuum in the intake manifold. By pressing the pedal it is not always possible to determine what is happening, and when driving with an econometer on the highway in the green zone, it is not even bad to control the amount of gasoline flying away. It is guaranteed that spare parts for trucks on the Moscow Ring Road are sold in the South Port even in the yellow shop. A trip computer is an order of magnitude more expensive, and it still needs to be mounted. He helped me very well ... and it is not the device that saves gasoline, but you think yourself, and the indicator only shows with an error of 20-30 percent, but this is quite enough. (from UAZ-Hunter to a regular UAZ)

Electronic speedometer AR 20.3802 (two-line display:
the upper line - the total mileage (6 digits, insignificant zeros are highlighted), the lower line - the resettable daily travel counter), the AP 68.3843 speed sensor (six-pulse, no-pass, thread М22, Kozmodemyanovskiy connector). RAR production (Riga).

There was only one difficulty during installation - a complete lack of information about both the speedometer and the Hunter's electrical circuit. Searches have yielded no results. It was also not possible to find a native harness with connectors. I had to use the scientific poke method. Everything is clear with the sensor: red - power supply (+12 V) (after the ignition switch), blue - signal, black - ground. (The connector was simply cut off). The speedometer connector looks like this (the numbering of contacts is conditional):

The purpose of the conclusions was established:
1. Earth.
2. Power supply (+12 V). (After ignition switch). (When voltage is applied, the liquid crystal digital display turns on. When the voltage is removed, the distance traveled readings are saved).
3. Signal from the sensor. (To blue sensor wire).
4. Night illumination (for lighting devices).
5. Output 12 volts to power the speed sensor.
6. High beam indicator (the symbol in the center of the scale lights up).
7. Nothing happens. (Probably not involved).
Due to the lack of a mating connector, I connected it with single wires with soldered lugs ("mothers") from the audio equipment. Everything works. Doesn't make noise. The arrow does not jump. The error is minimal. And at night - generally beautiful.
October 2005
Why the red fuel level indicator light does not work and how to fix it

On UAZ goats, on the fuel level sensors in the tanks, there is no "extra" contact with the light bulb.

The installation of a non-standard fuel level sensor will help to correct this situation. For example, from GAZ-53, it is the same in size. I put it in the left tank, shortened the float bar to the UAZ one by making a loop. I connected the reserve control lamp to the second output, and put the lamp itself on the dashboard in the fuel level indicator (new sample). When gasoline is running out, I find out about it right away and do not guess as before. How to prevent the fuel gauge from twitching on the slightest bump in the road?

In parallel with the display meter, cut a capacity of about 500.0 microfarads at 16v - I guarantee it will not twitch. (+ On the gas tank sensor, just in case).

Or maybe the problem is in poor contact on the potentiometer slider, which is in the tank? Installation of alarm on UAZ

The Alligator seller advised me. Well, I also bought it with installation. At the service, the installers frowned, but once the money was paid, they delivered it. We fumbled for a long time with the wiring to the back door - the UAZ was bare, and the wire was pulled below, in the frame. And then it turned out that the UAZ is too heavy for such an alarm. That is, if you accelerate the sensitivity, then any touch to the car near the sensor triggers the siren. And at the back, the spare tire can be freely removed, and the sensor does not feel it. And so it happened once ...

The signaling must be installed either by yourself or by pull! I put it on pull - so the masters cursed everything in the world! The metal is thick, the approaches are uncomfortable and all that. According to them, it turns out that during the installation (correct and good, as for yourself), you can put 3-4 Zhiguli on the UAZ! Hence the moral - just from the street - they will not put it well!
P. S. I have a Mongoose - happy! Itself does not work, but when the rear wheel penetrates or is removed, it yells.

The UAZ-469 was equipped with a G250-E1 generator and a PP350 voltage regulator (201.3702). Can now be installed:

The G250-E1 and G250-P2 generators differ from each other in the size of the drive pulleys, in addition, the G250-P2 generator has not one, but two "Ш" terminals.
A distinctive feature of the regulator PP132-A (2702.3702) is the presence of a three-position switch, with which you can change the range of regulated voltage:

Yes, it gets up without problems, only the PP needs a new one, tk. the standard one is designed for a current of 3 A, but it is needed for 5 A. So buy a Volgovsky PP. By the way, it is connected differently - "+" from the short circuit goes to one brush and to the terminal without letters on the PP, and the terminal "SH" PP is connected to the second brush. The PP itself is attached to ground.
It is worth changing the generator - it not only gives more current, but also gives it out at a lower speed of HF. [Chief] Volgovskiy relay-regulator

The Volgovskiy RR, unlike the UAZ one, will also allow the supply of a generator for 65 and 90 A.
If you don't have a remote PP right now, if I'm not mistaken, two wires go to it - one "+" from the ignition, the second wire to the generator brush. You put PP on the case, hook the wire to the brush on the "Ш" terminal, and the positive wire on the terminal without a designation. It is better to buy a block for the terminals - mother 2.
Next, check the brush assembly. If two wires fit - ("+" from the ignition and the second from the PP) - then leave it that way. Perhaps one is suitable - from the PP, then you will have to buy a Volgovsky brush assembly for two wires (two dads stick out there). On one you hook a wire from the PP, on the other "+" from the ignition. Better to wear a shoe too. [Chief] 90 ampere generator for UAZ

When replacing the generator with a more powerful one, it is desirable to lay the wire from the generator to the battery directly and use a wire of a larger section.

I put it from shishiga, I don't remember the name. I had to re-drill the fish soup on the cylinder block, in general they can move apart (you loosen the nuts and move) but only the rear moves, I had to move the front a little too, but now they are universal. And change the bolt to a longer one. I put the regulator in the salon, Volgovskiy p / conductor.
Generator sealed:
The stator winding was filled with epoxy, carefully, in several passes. The horseshoe is also a thin layer, the temperature regime will not go away much, it is quite heat-conducting. Cogs in sealant red. He must certainly be purged. Thus, it is not possible to seal the field winding, i.e. when immersed in water, it probably will not generate anything, but it should not fly out, although I have not tried it yet.

I stuffed myself from Gas 66. It looks like a small, but nuclear power plant. At first I thought it wouldn't fit there. But niche is a regular mount, it is adjustable in width at the bottom. it was necessary to file a little bit. And I also had to cut off the floor of the pulley :) it is two rivulets there, otherwise it clings to the meat grinder. For more than a month now I've been riding, pokatushki all sorts, Tver, chandelier winches, everything ... it works without problems.

Problems of a 90-ampere generator - diodes Having disassembled the buggy generator by 90 and found that 3 of 6 diodes burned out. The delivered new generator (also for 90 A) also raises doubts - there is an impression that at first it "fed" better (that is, apparently one diode burned out).

I took one for myself, at 90A, it was written that it was for GAZ-53 and UAZ. Before putting it, I opened it and looked. Inside - everything is OK (windings, brushes, bearings). Pulled out diodes, tested for current - 2 burned out

From GAZ-53 it is completely similar to the UAZ one. But, there are also 2 types of them, standard (65A) and 90A. The GAZ-53 generator has no tablet. Those. you throw out the brushes with the "Ш" terminal and put the pill.
By the way: the generators from UAZ, Bychka, 53rd Lawn are all like brothers, both in size and quality

Generator 90A from Audi 100.
Alterations: The ear for the UAZ bolt was bored + the standard mount was slightly altered with the addition of a sleeve for the bolt. The essence of the alteration of the fastening and the manufacture of the sleeve (several thick washers are possible) is that the generator pulley is located with the pump pulley in the same plane.
By the way, 90 ampere generators from the Audi 100 are of 2 types. You need one with one large ear for the bolt (the other type is two small ears). But I still recommend going in search of the generator with your own UAZ in your hands. And pulleys are also different, but there is practically the same as the UAZ one - take it. In our country (Minsk), such a generator costs $ 25-30. Why do you need to take out the diode bridge to the salon?

In difficult conditions, the temperature under the hood will be 80-100 degrees. And semiconductors retain their performance up to max 70 degrees. Those. diode bridge, PP, if they are under the hood, they will simply stop working.

There is another reason: as far as I know, the diodes are glass, and when heated to the operating temperature, they keep it while the generator is running, I you (well, me, or someone else: o)) enter the water, they burst into it due to the difference temperatures and at the exit from the ford, you get a dead generator. For these reasons, I actually take them to the salon.

Bus generator from LIAZ, type KATEK G-286 A, 14 V 80A. Its "plus" - it gives out current from 500 rpm, but here are its dimensions, weight and landing ... For its installation it was necessary to make a new bracket from a thick iron strip using a grinder and welding. Now the mount has gone down a bit. A small pulley allows you to feed the carlsons at idle without consuming the battery. Only one belt is not enough in this situation. The picture shows two belts and a Gas 24-10 pulley on the crankshaft.

I saw from the PAZ stood at 120A. The size is the same. The whole alteration comes down to cutting out the fasteners from the corner with a grinder. Why is a more powerful generator needed to charge a powerful battery?

The car uses a constant voltage battery charging circuit.
If you put a more capacious battery, then it will take more current from you when charging. Therefore, the supply of current from the generator should be large. That is why it is recommended to install with an enlarged battery - a more powerful generator.
The on-board network has a relay-regulator, the task of which is to keep the voltage within certain limits. With an increase in the load, the relay-regulator increases the duration of the control currents in the excitation winding of the generator and thereby forces the generator to give a larger current at a constant voltage.
This can continue until the load exceeds the generator maximum (in the first case it is 90A). If the maximum is exceeded, the relay-regulator can no longer maintain the voltage, because there is nowhere to increase the current. Accordingly, the voltage will subside (fall). And, of course, the voltage drop of a 100A generator will occur later. it can withstand 10A more load. That's all. And if the load is less than 100A, then it will behave exactly the same as 90A. [Professor] Isn't it dangerous to install a generator with more power than a battery?
When I start a UAZ car in the morning, all 85 Amperes (from the generator) charge the battery (albeit for a short time). At the same time, in any book on an auto electrician it is written that it is NOT POSSIBLE to charge the battery with a current greater than 1/10 of its capacity, that is, in my case, 6.5 A. And then there is a thirteen-fold excess?

In short, autom. generator + (relay-regulator) is a voltage source - its task is to maintain a more or less stable pressure in the on-board network. After starting the engine, the current shown by the ammeter is determined by the "desire" of the generator to provide 13-14 V in the network, and the battery itself decides how much it needs, and takes from the belly, with fright from the discharge that just happened to it. Its technical characteristics are incorporated in the design and everything is provided - 10 hour charge - 1/10 capacity, 20 hour and accelerated - 300% of the first (for imported ones up to 500).
"DO NOT charge the battery with a current greater than 1/10 of its capacity" - I agree, but there is a parameter in the specification for the battery "short-term" or "non-destructive" charging current. So 1/10 is constant charge.

There are devices that "smooth out" this short-term charge; they try to replace the voltage source with a current source.
7A at the beginning of work will provide approx. 13B, and after acc. will charge (rather quickly) and "refuse" to take so much, the spill will begin to grow - up to the generator's open circuit voltage (approx. 18 V) to force the ACC. "get drunk". I made a similar device, and along the way I studied the question.
Summary: if acc. good - he will last 6 years, and if bad, greenhouse conditions will not help him. How to check the generator?

The field winding can be checked without disassembling the generator - the resistance between the slip rings should be 2.5 ohms.
To check the diode bridge, the generator must be disassembled (although I believe that if the generator is 65 A, the probability of diode emission is small). Nevertheless, they are checked as follows: you take a light bulb with wires, hook one wire to the "+", the other to the contact bolt of the winding (unhook the winding itself). wire "-" is applied in turn to the plus and minus terminals of the block. In one case, the lamp should be on, in the other not. If the lamp on the bolt does not light at all, the diode has burned out. If it is lit in any case, the diode is closed. You check all three bolts in turn, then change the wires going to + and - batteries in places and again check all three bolts. [Chief] Thoughts on improving power supply

I want to create a circuit with two generators, but so that their circuits do not touch, and one of the generators does not work at all in a normal state, but only switches on for additional load (chandelier, winch, etc.) ..
I copied this scheme from an old German (?) Jeep. There it is done exactly like this: 2 generators on both sides of the engine. And it looks like a regular ...

There are two aspects to the problem at hand - reliability and cost. Buy one powerful foreign-made generator, and put your own one in stock. Technical problems are solved, reliability - in which case we put the remaining spare generator, for the money, I think, at least, comparable costs ... [_ BYKA]

I have 2 fuse boxes in my plans - 1st (hood) - light relay (far and near), sound signals, carlosons. A thick wire with a battery goes to it, since there is a considerable current there. The control wires are thin, from the passenger compartment. All relay coils are protected by a 1m common fuse. Relay contacts and consumers are protected by their own. It turned out already for this CHA quite a lot of relays and fuses. I planned to make it airtight and place it on the front panel of the engine compartment, since there is not particularly vital electronics, but it will allow all the power wires to be made short. Although you can go to the salon.
2nd box in the salon. Everything else is in it - electrician of wipers and washers (rear and front), ignition systems, tidy, radio stations, music, turn signals / emergency lights, sockets, interior lighting, generator electrics (rectifier, PP), etc.

To prevent the battery from discharging to "zero", I advise you to slightly alter the light circuit so that the headlights turn on only when the ignition is on. In this case, you would have had dimensions that might not have had time to completely discharge the battery. And for short-term illumination of the picnic area, you can use a searchlight. 11.2001 [Chief] How to disassemble the bendix without damage?

With a sharp screwdriver, carefully pry the edge of the rolling and in a circle, in a circle! :-)) When the rolled body begins to move towards the gear, then to give the correct round shape to the ribbed (due to bending with a screwdriver) edges, slide one side onto the cylindrical part of the coupling body and push them with a hammer. You can do it differently (although this is a hassle :-)) - cut the rolled edge into sectors (3-5 mm) and bend them. Reassemble in reverse order using a hammer - gently bend the edges of the rolling, tapping them in a circle. [Chief] Bendix adjustment

Did you turn the starter axis? She's eccentric and regulates the "departure" of the bendix. It is checked this way - on the removed starter, you apply a plus to the control terminal of the retractor relay (do not hook the "+" to the power bolt, but attach the starter housing to the ground). In this case, the bendix jumps out, but the anchor does not spin. The bendix should not reach the stop ring 1-2 mm. From practice - even half-worn flywheel teeth are normally captured.
Bendix "under-income" is quite common on new starters. The other opposite is "transition". In this case, the bendix rests against the crown, and the power contacts of the starter have not yet closed - and it does not spin. That is, when turned on, the starter makes a "click" and is silent. [Chief] Why did the starter turn slowly?

If the battery is in good condition, then one of the reasons, perhaps, is a bad "weight" on the engine. Even if this is not the case, it will still not be superfluous to perform the following operation:
I bought a copper 8mm in isolation with copper ears (80r). I didn't want to crawl under the car in the mud, I screwed it in the place where I came up - one end to the cover of the rocker arms for fastening the bracket of some kind of hose (vacuum regulator hose - (U))... The other end exactly reached the nearest bolt on the body - it turned out to be the upper screw securing the coil. That's where I screwed it under the coil.
The effect was immediately noticed - the wire from the gene stopped heating up, the starter started spinning 2 times faster. I didn't touch the old braid at all - let it hang. The choice of the cross section of the automotive wire

Note: when laying wires with a cross-section of 0.5 - 4.0 mm2 in bundles, in the cross-section of which there are from two to seven wires along the route, the allowable current in the wire is 0.55 of the current in a single wire according to the table, and when the presence of 8-19 wires - 0.38 of the current in a single wire. [Lada FAQ site] Is there a "daytime mileage" speedometer for UAZ?

Take it from the Volga - all one to one (speed and distance). I tried it myself. The gear ratios of the speedometer are the same, so it easily gets up from 2410. From 3110 it is worse - you need a speed sensor for the box. [Chief] Improving speedometer backlight

It bothered me very much that I don't see the speedometer in the dark ...
But in general it is not necessary to hurt, but not pleasant.
Disassembled. Constructive flaw - the backlight bulb is at the bottom and is closed by the speedometer mechanism. As a result, only the bottom is normally highlighted, which is of little interest and the mileage counter. Above is a high beam indicator lamp. An iron tube goes inside from it, so that only a hole on the dial shines and there is a blue filter on the tube.
The backlight has a green filter in the form of a cap. The whole thing is riveted.
I thought that the illumination of the upper part of the speedometer is more important for me - where the scale is and threw out the high-beam lamp, broke off the tube. I put the backlight lamp in place of the high beam lamp.
Now the speedometer backlight is just a fairy tale! I didn't even expect such a result :) Calibration of the coolant temperature gauge

At my UAZ, I put a variable resistance parallel to the temperature sensor in order to tare the temperature gauge. I did it because I was tired of his false testimony. The resistance rating is approximately 1 kΩ. You can tare it like this: take the sensor, immerse it in a mug of water (not completely), connect the wire from the car and the mass, heat the water with a boiler to a boil (100 degrees), set the trimmer resistor to 100 degrees on the device - and you can drive, controlling the real temperature ... [Gogi] Diagram of the electronic instrument cluster AR 110.3801

I bought a panel for 3162 from RAR. http://www.shop.3160.ru/index.php?productID\u003d3394

An excellent modern panel for the 3160 series. But I was looking for the circuit for a very long time, from the RAR factory they sent it away. In Ulyanovsk, I found out that it is in the book on service 3162, the circulation of the book is only 500 copies! I did find the scheme and would like it to be available to everyone. the copy is very bad:
Page 1, Page 2

Lepisa Dmitry (December 2007)
How to remove optical elements (headlights) with a standard bumper guard?

No way. It is necessary to remove the bumper guard - the work takes 15-20 minutes, there should be no problems, only 6 bolts.

I bent the top wire down. But you can break ...

These wires are not needed at all, there is only one hemorrhoid from them - neither wash after them, nor remove the eyes. I cut them down. I often go through the forest, on dirt roads with gravel - there were no problems with the headlights. So in my opinion - the wires are props.

By the way, for the headlights on the kengurin, the bracket for attaching the exhaust pipe of the muffler from 2141 is ideal. Both rigidly and in size. [Timosha] What kind of "piece of iron" is put on the headlights of military vehicles

This is called the SMU light-camouflage device is supplied only for military equipment and is worn on it during battles, reduces the visibility of a vehicle from an aircraft, an extremely necessary thing in everyday life (what if Aeroflot planes see you), it is only in military units, purchased from warrant officers at the established rate in currency (liquid).

In addition to narrowing the luminous flux, SMU has one more feature: you can insert light filters (like UV spectrum) into it, which, together with a binocular helmet-mounted night vision device (a rather ancient thing, such as a theater binocular attached to a tank helmet), allows you to ride with a horse, although almost groping. In normal life, adults do not need a hundred years, the headlights shine much better than this device can see. Where is it better to take "+" to connect a chandelier, SV-ishki and other extras. consumers?

It is better to power the SV with a battery, a chandelier after ignition. Everything is powered through the mandatory add. fuses to protect the wires. Better to install an additional fuse box. It is advisable to supply powerful consumers through a relay, although my IMHO is better to put powerful (~ 20A) toggle switches. It is also positive to lose the bimetal, scattering consumers on the same additional block. It is useful to introduce an ammeter into the torpedo, it will become clear whether the generator needs to be changed or not. What is the best way to connect add. energy consumers?

Necessarily through fuses - an axiom

1. It is highly desirable that the minuses of the power supply of each high-current consumer converge as a "star" at one point, and better - on akka. Otherwise, with poor mass contacts and a large distance of its connection points from the original, ringing (interference) and interference in radio and sound amplifying equipment are possible. The iron of the car body is not at all such a good and reliable conductor ... The same, in principle, applies to the advantages of nutrition, but weight is more important.
2. In the ministries there are ready-made power wires-braids to the akk, which have lamella taps ("dads") on the akka terminals for connecting additional consumers - they are wider than usual ones, they probably hold currents up to 30 A. Such wires seem to be regular are on the new "Volga". [ATZ]

There is a cable clamp (electrical terminal block) on sale - it is hung on a thick wire, connects a thinner one, which goes to some typical terminal block with bolts. These are all sold in industrial electrical shops. The negative terminal is generally a straight uninsulated zero from the electrical panel, bolted to the iron, a kind of copper stick with holes and bolts, sometimes at least 30 holes. Ammeter, its type, where is it better to connect

More often they come across on sale 30/30 (native UAZ, and there are many where they stand), there are 50/50, I nadybal 100/100 from the PAZ.
Connect: "-" of the device to the "+" battery, with a thick wire from the generator of squares 10 to the "+" of the device, from it we distribute to consumers, including the ignition switch, we tear off the thin wire from the starter at all. We leave the fat one between the battery and the starter, there is nothing to measure there - the current is large, but for a short time, so the starter is past the device!

To measure the battery charge-discharge current, you need to do this: connect the wire from the generator to the consumer wire (it goes from the + starter terminal, where the thick wire with the battery is still suitable), but from this connection, throw the wire to the battery through the ammeter. [Chief] The mains voltage "floats" when the add. consumers

This is due to a voltage drop in the generator-regulator circuit. If you measure the voltage on the battery, it will fluctuate approximately 14-16 V. The cardinal solution is to connect the generator "+" terminal to the "+" terminal of the regulator through a relay that closes when the ignition is turned on. This will also help to avoid overcharging the generator due to overvoltage. Also check all the contacts - including the "masses" ... [Chief]

When I got sick of a large voltage drop in the power supply circuit of the excitation winding of the generator (1.5-2 V!) And, as a result, the battery boiled out, I brought power to the relay-regulator directly from the "+" generator through a relay that closes when the ignition is turned on. After that, the voltage on the battery became stable at 13.9-14 volts, but consumers began to receive less of it (you can also see a consequence of the thin wire of the generator), having 12-12.5 volts. Then I connected the "+" of the generator and the "+" of the battery with a wire of 10 mm2. The result is excellent - the voltage is stable at 13.5! In this case, I cheated a little, having achieved the same effect as you - I did not begin to lay the alternator of the standard generator-starter wire, but laid it to the battery (before the starter, there is already a "fat-thick"!) [Chief]

Causes:
First: Belt tension.
Second: The diode bridge (horseshoe) partially burned out. This is a replacement
Third: What I had. The bastardly thin wiring from the generator should pass all 65a. charging current, and mine was charred and half burnt near the attachment to the generator. This was the reason. It is imperative to change it entirely. [Timosha] How to connect the electric winch correctly? Weight does not turn off (goes through the winch)

In the general case, the "minus" from the battery is also duplicated by a wire to the winch. When the ground switch is turned off, the ground will still be on the car body (closes through the winch). It was decided as follows: since the car was being prepared for the trophy in the TP2 category, an emergency disconnect switch of the "SPARCO" company was installed with the possibility of turning off the engine when it was turned off. It has 2 bridged power contacts (and not one and the case as on the standard one). One of them was connected to a minus battery, to the other two power wires: one minus the winch, the other minus the ground. Thus, when disconnecting the ground, the winch chain is also broken. The machine is completely de-energized ... As an alternative to the expensive ($ 35) switch from "SPARCO", you can install a two-pole disconnect switch with a powerful metal key, which is sold in truck parts stores. Price - 250 rubles. In general, in my humble change, this device for a combat off-road vehicle is not superfluous .. Since it greatly reduces the likelihood of fire due to short circuit wiring ... How best to wire to the roof

The wires go from the switch under the dashboard under the torpedo, then along the rack, where there is a small triangle connecting the roof and the windshield frame, a hole is drilled through it along the rack of the rack (I have a chandelier - an integral part of the trunk) - to the headlights. The wires are not frayed by the door. September 2003
Battery charging indicator

There is such a thing, a voltage regulator, called RN-4. So there is an indicator light. When there is not enough generator at low engine speeds to power consumers, the light comes on. The same is true in the absence of charging. In general, it burns when there is an email consumption. with battery. And it goes out when there is sufficient power from the generator. Very comfortably. I have had RN-4 for 5 years and probl. did not have. Replacing the standard sound signal with Volgovsky We have two wires that fit, one of which, as I understand it, is constantly energized, the second is apparently a control, from a button on the steering wheel. There is one terminal on Volgovsky (though there are two snails)

Everything is quite simple - you need to plug in a 527 or universal relay. On the 527, you cling "+" to the middle leg, to the extreme (which is closer) wire from the signal button, and the remaining one you cling to the signals. On the universal + you throw on 85 and 30, on 86 - the button, on 87 - signals.
For good sound, the signal must resonate - do not support it directly to the body, but through a 1.5-2 mm steel plate about 30 mm wide. [Chief] Speedometer adjustment

There is a coil spring with a regulator inside the speedometer. With this regulator, increase (if the readings are overestimated) the "tension" of the spring. To do this, you will have to disassemble the case. [Chief] Simplified engine starting

It is necessary under the hood next to the add. the starter relay put a small button that closes the 2 terminals of this relay ("+", and the one to which the wire from the ignition switch comes). This will allow the engine to be cranked with the ignition and generator off. A few tips for the electrical rework procedure

I did everything piece by piece. The electrics are all homemade. To begin with, he threw out all the old wiring (left it only for connectors, etc.) and began to make his own from separate wires. I started with this diagram: http://akolubaev.narod.ru/myfiles/uazka/2.jpg. Wires took about 3mm in diameter (high currents and speak well for winter). Then I fasten the wire, make a mark on the diagram, etc. When you connect everything according to this scheme, do not be lazy, go over it with your eyes, just in case. If no errors are found, you can try to start. If everything is OK, we form the wiring into a harness. That is, you fix it with electrical tape at the points of divergence (detachment) of the wires. Further, all this economy can be removed and insulated thoroughly. Next, I prepared diagrams for connecting devices and sensors, that is, I took a diagram for 31512 from the site and removed unnecessary wires in Paint (tedious, but reliable). Further, as I did before. And so on. As a result, the wiring turned out to be no worse than the standard one. It took a lot of time only to pick out the old connectors and mounts. Headlight-seeker: which is better - a native UAZ or Chinese handicrafts of 500-1000 e?

"Native" with modifications. You take your own headlight, with smooth glass. The glass is clamped by petals on the reflector, you take out the glass. You need it. Further in the store you buy a high beam headlamp from 2106 (under a thin halogen). You knock out the glass neatly, you need a reflector. Don't scratch it. Glue the glass of the searchlight there, and insert it into the body. All! You have a halogen headlight with a very good character. [Alien, RoadHawk]

You can immediately look for a "native" for halogen optics - (U). Alteration of the battery mount

After another kurtosis with a battery that flew out of its place (tearing off the standard basket), which almost ended in a fire in under the hood space, I decided that it was necessary to do a more competent fastening of the battery. Since the car goes to sports, the battery mount is one of the main safety requirements. With such thoughts I came to our garage where Shura "Alien" is working on his 469th UAZ. Because Shura completely reworked the face of his UAZ (mudguards, fenders), then he already had to face the problem of installing a battery. This problem was solved by making a "basket" for a battery from a steel corner ... This design looks like this:

Having estimated what was happening, Shura quickly piled a basket for me, taking into account its installation on 31512 ... It was fixed in place with three bolts. After that, I hit the road to the nearest store, where I bought two straps for attaching the expansion tank from the VAZ "classics" .. Slightly conjuring with fasteners, these belts were installed on the wall of the engine compartment above the basket, like this:

According to my estimates, this design provides a fairly rigid fastening of the battery, but at the same time does not complicate its replacement ...
Sergey Kirsanov
Luggage compartment lighting

I made the trunk light according to this scheme. The location of the tip and switch can be seen in photo 1, the lanterns in photo 2. If there is no secret police, then decoupling diodes are not needed. It is possible without a tip, then you can only turn it on manually (now there are three positions: off, on manually, on automatically when you open the trunk). [Anatoly Khokhryakov (HOHAN)]

It will not be an exaggeration to call the legendary model "452" the ancestor of a whole family of multipurpose utility vehicles under the UAZ brand. This is really so, and experts are well aware that the wiring diagram of the UAZ 3962, the units and transmissions of the 3904 model, as well as other modifications, are unified with the "452".

All world manufacturers of cars and utility vehicles are developing in a similar way:

1. Successful design serves as the basis for a whole family of cars;
2. Constant refinement and modernization allows you to update the model range;
3. The unification of parts and assemblies reduces the cost of creating new cars.

Famous "Polbatona" - photo of the UAZ 3904 model

For reference: When, in communication with each other, car owners mention the "civil" version of a particular UAZ unit, this is true. Initially "452" was created by order of the Ministry of Defense as a vehicle accompanying tank columns on the march. And for use on public roads, the car was modernized.

The famous "Loaf", thanks to its all-metal body, the model "452" served as a platform for the creation of a whole line of vehicles:

1. UAZ 2206 - a minibus for 11 people;
2. UAZ 3962 - a car for the ambulance service;
3. UAZ 396255 - civil modification of an ambulance car for the needs of rural areas;
4. UAZ 39099 - promoted under the name "Farmer". Designed for 6 passengers and 450 kg of cargo;
5. UAZ 3741 - a van for the carriage of 2 passengers and 850 kg of cargo;
6. UAZ 3303 - open-type flatbed vehicle;
7. UAZ 3904 is a cargo-passenger version that combines the convenience of an all-metal body for passengers and an open body for cargo.

For reference: in all modifications, the UAZ 2206 wiring is taken as a basis, from which unused components that perform certain functions in the car interior have been removed for each model.

Features of modification with multifunctional control

Variations with the body of the car did not affect its technical equipment too much. But when the changes affected the controls, they underwent modernization:

1. Internal wiring for UAZ;
2. Steering column control unit for cornering and outdoor lighting;
3. The control unit for the operation of electric wipers on the instrument panel.

Reason for modernization

For reference: in accordance with European safety requirements, when activating light and sound devices while driving, the driver of the vehicle should not remove his hands from the steering wheel. According to this principle, the wiring diagram of the VAZ 2112 and other models of the Togliatti Automobile Plant is built.

On cars of the UAZ family, the windshield wiper control unit was located on the instrument panel. And since this did not meet safety requirements, then on all subsequent modifications:

1. it was replaced by a more modern multifunctional unit located directly on the steering wheel;
2. began to install a new instrument panel.

Self-upgrade

Cars of new releases already have a multifunctional control unit in the database. But the owners of early releases can convert the car to modern safety requirements with their own hands.

This will require:

1. Original wiring UAZ 2206 - as the most suitable for self-alteration;
2. Factory instruction diagram, allowing you to correctly connect the steering column switches to the standard scheme;
3. Desire to do quality installation.

Advice: the cost of the issue of self-alteration is low, so you should not neglect it when operating UAZ vehicles in dynamic road conditions - on city highways or public roads. As a matter of fact, independent replacement of UAZ wiring on old models will also eliminate its failures in operation.

The work algorithm will be as follows:

1. Disconnect the battery;
2. We remove the control unit from the instrument panel;
3. We disconnect the wires, checking their compliance with the factory diagram in Fig. one;
4. Remove the standard switches from the steering wheel column.

For alteration, you will need to purchase several new parts:

1. Block of multifunctional steering column switches from the UAZ 390995 model;
2. Relay for the wiper circuit (best suited from the VAZ model, as well as the wiring 2112 connecting the relay and the switch block);
3. Terminal blocks in the amount of 3 pieces (one 8-pin for the side of the steering column switches and two 6-pin for the relay and the standard adapter).

Advice: a good help for any alteration of the electrical circuit can be e video on the pages of our site, which are shared by car owners who independently service their cars.

Getting started with the installation:

1. We replace the standard connector with a new one;
2. We cut the 4x4 wire (in Fig. 2 it is marked with a red cross);
3. We connect its ends to 31V and to S the contact of the wiper relay;
4. We connect wire 5-2 to pin 15 of the wiper relay;
5. Contact J of the relay is connected to the 2nd contact of the steering column switch;
6. We connect the 13-pin relay to ground;
7. We connect a new terminal block with an adapter cable;
8. We connect it to the block, which was previously connected with the standard switch on the instrument panel;
9. We close the contacts of the windshield washer motor to contacts 6 and 7 of the switch;
10. On the relay, pin 86 is connected to pin 6 of the steering column switch.

Motorists have improved the alteration scheme proposed by the manufacturer, making some changes to it (in Fig. 3):

1. A variable resistor R \u003d 10K was introduced into the circuit, thanks to which the pause in the intermittent mode of operation of the wipers can be smoothly changed from 4 s to 15 s;
2. Connect the resistor in such a way that the countdown of the operating mode starts from the moment the brush motor stops.

Conclusions: cars of the UAZ family are not only multipurpose unitary SUVs, but also easy-to-maintain vehicles. Almost any car owner, armed with knowledge and colored wiring diagrams, is able not only to restore a failed unit, but also to carry out useful modernization of the car and its individual elements.

The integrated microprocessor engine control system (KMPSUD) for utility vehicles of wagon layout, UAZ-3741 and UAZ-3909 vans, UAZ-3962 ambulances, UAZ-2206 buses and UAZ-3303 trucks includes an electronic control unit, sensors, actuating electromechanisms, control diagnostic fault lamp, wiring harness and diagnostic socket.

KMPSUD diagrams of cars of the UAZ-3741, 3909, 3962, 2206 and 3303 families with engines UMZ-4213, ZMZ-4091 and ZMZ-40911.

KMPSUD with the following electronic control units and controllers was installed on the wagon-type utility vehicles of the UAZ-3741, 3909, 3962, 2206 and 3303 models, depending on the engine and its class:

- For cars with UMZ-4213.10 Euro-2 engine - MIKAS-7.2 control unit 291.3763000-11
- For cars with UMZ-4213.10 Euro-3 engine - MIKAS M10.3 control unit 574.3763000-03
- For cars with a ZMZ-4091.10 Euro-3 engine - control unit MIKAS-11 825.3763001-01 or BOSCH M17.9.7 0 261 S04 795
- For vehicles with a ZMZ-40911.10 Euro-4 engine - a BOSCH M17.9.7 0261 S06 585 control unit for a complete set with a mass air sensor and BOSCH M17.9.7 0261 S07 322 for a complete with an absolute pressure sensor.

Scheme of KMPSUD of cars of the UAZ-3741, 3909, 3962, 2206 and 3303 families with UMZ-4213.10 Euro-3 engines and MIKAS M10.3 574.3763000-03 control unit.

Diagram of the KMPSUD wiring harness for cars of the UAZ-3741, 3909, 3962, 2206 and 3303 families with UMZ-4213.10 Euro-3 engines and the MIKAS M10.3 574.3763000-03 control unit.

The composition of the control system for engines UMZ-4213.10 Euro-3 with the MIKAS M10.3 control unit, its sensors and actuators are discussed in detail in the material.

Scheme of KMPSUD of cars of the UAZ-3741, 3909, 3962, 2206 and 3303 families with ZMZ-4091.10 Euro-3 engines and a MIKAS-11 825.3763001-01 control unit.

The composition of the control system for engines ZMZ-4091.10 Euro-3 with the MIKAS-11 control unit, its sensors and actuators are discussed in detail in the material.

Scheme of KMPSUD of cars of the UAZ-3741, 3909, 3962, 2206 and 3303 families with a ZMZ-4091.10 Euro-3 engine and a Bosch M17.9.7 control unit.

The composition of the engine management system ZMZ-4091.10 Euro-3 with the Bosch M17.9.7 control unit, its sensors and actuators are discussed in detail in the material.

Electrical diagram of KMPSUD of cars of the UAZ-3741, 3909, 3962, 2206 and 3303 families with ZMZ-40911.10 Euro-4 engines and a BOSCH M17.9.7 0261 S07 322 control unit.

The composition, sensors and actuators of the control system UAZ-3741, 3909, 3962, 2206 and 3303 with ZMZ-40911.10 Euro-4 engines and a BOSCH M17.9.7 control unit are discussed in the material.

Component and circuit designations on the diagrams:

A1 - engine control controller (block);
A2 - fuel pump module with a level sensor;
A3 - combination or dashboard;
A4 - immobilizer (car anti-theft system - APS);
A5 - trip computer;
A6 - accelerator pedal module (E-gas);
A7 - electric throttle device;
B1 - throttle position sensor;
B2 - mass air flow sensor;
B3 - coolant temperature sensor;
B4 - air temperature sensor;
B5 - knock sensor;
B6 - oxygen sensor No. 1;
B7 - sensor No. 2;
B8 - rough road sensor;
BP1 - intake air absolute pressure sensor;
BP2 - oil pressure alarm sensor;
BP3 - air conditioner refrigerant pressure indicator;
BR1 - synchronization sensor (crankshaft position);
BR2 - phase sensor (camshaft position);
BV1 - vehicle speed sensor;
F1-F4 - spark plugs for cylinders 1-4;
FU1-FU6 - fuse;
HL1 - MIL lamp for engine diagnostics;
HL2 - lamp IMMO of the immobilizer (APS unit) state;
GB1 - rechargeable battery;
KA1 - main relay;
KA2 - electric fuel pump relay;
KA3, KA4 - relays for electric fans No. 1 and No. 2 for engine cooling;
KA5 - air conditioning compressor clutch relay;
L1 - transceiver antenna of the immobilizer;
M1 - electric petrol pump;
M2, M3 - electric fans 1 and 2;
PF1 - tachometer;
PS1 - coolant temperature gauge;
TV1, TV2 - two-pin ignition coil;
TV3 - ignition module with two-lead coils;
TV4-TV7 - individual ignition coils;
TV8 - four-lead ignition coil;
W1-W4 - high-voltage ignition wires;
SA1 - ignition switch;
SA2 - power switch;
SA3 - air conditioner switch;
SA4 - two-channel brake pedal switch;
SA5 - pedal switch;
XS1 - diagnostic connector;
XS2 - nozzle connector;
Y1-Y4 - petrol injectors;
Y5 - additional air regulator (idle);
Y6 - adsorber purge valve;
Y7 - electrical coupling of the air conditioning compressor;
* - the component can be installed as an optional extra.

Electrical circuits in the diagrams:

"15" - a chain from the ignition switch;
"30" - battery power supply circuit;
"Um" - power supply circuit from the main relay of the system;
"Ue" - power circuit from the electric petrol pump relay;
GNP - power ground of the controller output stages;
GNI - "mass" for power ignition channels;
GND - "ground" for logic and digital circuits of the controller;
GNA - ground for signal (analog) circuits of the controller.

The rest of the circuits are named after the terminals of the electronic control unit. It is not allowed to operate the engine with a burning diagnostic lamp. Constant burning of the lamp indicates the presence of malfunctions in the engine management system.

In the presence of malfunctions, the control system automatically switches to operating mode. Cold start deteriorates, exhaust gas toxicity and fuel consumption increase. It is imperative to diagnose KMPSUD to eliminate the malfunctions that have arisen.

Reading 3 min.

One of the most frequent problems of domestic cars is the breakdown of any electrical devices, therefore, the topic of today's article will be the wiring diagram of a UAZ Loaf car on an injector-type engine.

One of the most common problems of domestic cars is the breakdown of any electrical appliances, the electrical circuit will help you figure it out. The only solution to this problem is to check the status of the fuses. The topic of today's article will be the wiring diagram of a UAZ Loaf car on an injector type engine.

So, this article provides answers to such fairly common questions:

• What is the wiring diagram on a UAZ Loaf car of an injector type engine?
• How is the wiring diagram of the UAZ Bukhanka car arranged?
• Where are the fuses located on the UAZ Loaf car of the injector type engine?
• Repair of the mounting block.

basic information

Fuses in a UAZ Loaf car are located in a special mounting block, and it, in turn, is located in the air inflow box on the left side of the vehicle. The mounting block includes all the most important parts of the electronic circuits, while supplying them with the necessary fuses and relays. The fuse box of the UAZ Loaf car consists of two lines with fuses and the whole structure is fixed with a nut to the vehicle body. If you decide to remove the fuse lines, then you will need to disconnect the battery.

The main elements of the electronic circuit include:

• Accumulator battery;
• Electronic fuel pump;
• Fuel mixture purification filter;
• Injectors;
• Engine control unit;
• Electronic ignition coil;
• Spark plugs;
• Idling sensor;
• Crankshaft sensor;
• Air damper sensor;
• Tachometer;
• Fan motor for cooling the radiator;
• Fan electronic motor control relay;
• An indicator that monitors the performance of the engine;
• Diagnostic connector.

In the event of any breakdown of electronic equipment, an increase in current will occur in the node that is responsible for this device, as a result of which a short circuit occurs. The wire through which the current flows to the fuse burns out and melts, as a result of which the circuits are broken, and the device is turned off, but its integrity is preserved. That is, thanks to the fuses, the main parts are protected from overheating in the event of a short circuit.

How is the removal and installation of the mounting block correct?

If the electrical circuit is made with high quality, then this will greatly facilitate the process of installing and removing electronic equipment. So, the algorithm for removing the mounting block:

1. Disconnect the wiring from the negative terminal of the battery;
2. Open the hood and remove the cover from the fuse and relay box. To do this, squeeze 4 plastic latches;
3. We move the rubber cover;
4. Disconnect the upper block of the wiring harness from the block;
5. We turn off the 2 nuts that secure the block;
6. We take out the block from the compartment, which is located in front of the windshield;
7. Disconnect the lower pads of the wiring harnesses from the unit;
8. Install fuses and relays in reverse order.

Repairing the mounting block consists in replacing the printed circuit boards. So, the algorithm for repairing the mounting block:

1. Remove the mounting block;
2. We unscrew the 8 screws that secure the bottom cover;
3. Use a screwdriver to open the bottom cover;
4. We check the condition of the tracks along which the current flows and the quality of the sealing. If defects are found, they must be eliminated, but if this is not possible, then carry out a complete replacement of the unit;
5. Install the mounting block in reverse order.

To ensure the operability of all electrical devices on any car, an electrical circuit is used. In this article we will talk about the legendary domestically produced cars - UAZ. What is the wiring diagram of the UAZ Bukhanka car, what are its features - read about it below.

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What is included in the wiring diagram?

What features does a car electrician have on old cars produced by the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant?

Electronic components

The wiring diagram of the UAZ 452 itself is quite simple - single-wire.

By its design, the wiring diagram of the UAZ390995 or another model is characterized by the following solutions:

1. The body of the vehicle is used as a mass.
2. Any electrical equipment of the old-style circuit on the UAZ 409 or another model, as well as actuators, are equipped with a negative terminal, which is connected to the car body. According to experts, in general, this scheme is imperfect.

According to the instructions for the operation of electrical equipment, the driver must from time to time diagnose the condition of the integrity of the contacts. We are also talking about their oxidation. If the driver notices the presence of oxidation on the terminals, he must process them using fine-grained sandpaper.

Engine compartment

In this case, the engine compartment is located directly in the passenger compartment in accordance with the design of the machine.

The very access to the electrical circuit and other mechanisms and units is made from the passenger compartment, as a result of dismantling the cover, which:

1. Designed to protect motorists and passengers from exhaust gases entering the passenger compartment.
2. Allows you to protect the car interior from dirt and dust.
3. Serves as an additional heating device, in particular in a passive way, as a result of heating.

Previously, the UAZ 396255 and other models with a carburetor used an engine from the legendary Victory, which was later replaced with a more advanced and modern unit. In particular, this refers to the motor from the "Volga". This decision at one time, back in 1964, was facilitated by the serial launch of a production line at the ZMZ enterprise. Despite the fact that many domestic motorists claim that the scheme of the UAZ 390994 injector in the engine compartment is located in an inconvenient place due to the lack of a hood, this is not the case. Dozens of years of operation have proven that the absence of a hood does not in any way affect the diagnosis and maintenance of a car.

Passive safety

The very design of the domestic Loaf with the absence of a hood at first raised many questions in terms of the safety of the driver and passengers. As a result of several dozen crash tests, which were carried out back in the early 70s of the last century, it was revealed that the car is no less safe when compared with other domestic cars. The results have shown that in the event of an accident, both the driver and the passengers of the car have a good chance of avoiding injury in the event of an accident.

Features of electrical equipment

So, what are the features of the UAZ 452 wiring diagram. At the time of the start of production for the engineers and designers of the enterprise, the most difficult moment was the search for the highest quality elements and components.

In particular, we are talking about parts for the vehicle lighting system, as well as ignition, which is especially well traced by how the car's cabin is filled:

• control elements for various transport systems;
• control devices for monitoring the state of nodes and mechanisms.

External optics

At that time, the designers had to resort to many freelance solutions in order to establish mass production of cars.

That is why:

1. The UAZ electrical circuit includes an optics switch, which was borrowed from the GAZ 69. By the way, the latter is the predecessor of the Loaf.
2. In addition, almost all the optics were borrowed from the GAZ 64 - these are lights, etc.

Ignition system

troubleshooting

On any domestic cars, problems in the operation of electrical equipment periodically arise. If you notice that the UAZ wiring is not working correctly, you need to diagnose it and check all the elements. If there are any malfunctions in the operation of electronic devices, first of all, you need to check if the fuses in the mounting block have blown. If everything is fine with these elements, and the equipment still does not function, for example, if we talk about optics, then it is necessary to check whether the working light bulbs are used. If the lamps themselves are working, it is necessary to ring the electrical part using a tester (the author of the video about the ringing is Ramil Abdullin).

If the Loaf refuses to start at all, you need to do the following:

1. First of all, check the battery performance.
2. With a charged battery, using a tester, ring the circuit from the coil to the generator device, often the reason for the inability to start the motor is due to breaks in the wiring. If there are breaks, the wires should be changed. If there is oxidation on the contacts, they should be cleaned.
3. It will be impossible to start the power unit in the absence of a spark.To diagnose the presence of a spark from the spark plug, remove the high-voltage cable and bring it to the body. When trying to start the engine, a spark should slip between the cable and the body.
4. If there is no spark, the problem is probably carbon deposits and deposits. By the way, carbon deposits are often the reason for the unstable operation of the motor and its triple formation. To get rid of such a malfunction, it is advisable to clean the candles; a step-by-step instruction for this process is presented.