The all-wheel drive system of the UAZ Patriot SUV has such an important unit as the transfer case. This mechanism is necessary to redistribute the torque between the drive shafts.

Until 2013, the Ulyanovsk manufacturer equipped its new UAZ Patriot with a mechanical dispensing unit. Then the developers decided to update the drive. Among the main updates was the replacement of the standard handout box with a more advanced Korean Dymos movement. But only the company is Korean here, and the production of the unit itself is carried out in the PRC.

Our article will tell you about what a Daimos handout for UAZ-3163 is, where the design features of the unit and the main advantages over the classic mechanical design will be considered. Let's talk about when repairs are required, during which the circuit will come in handy.

Transfer case features

The Daimos distribution box, which UAZ Patriot is currently equipped with, is a two-stage gearbox, where the gear system is housed in an aluminum case. The main transmission link in the unit is the chain, through which the moment is directed to the front axle. The transfer unit is controlled by a special electromechanical mechanism that allows you to select different driving modes.

For example, in a traditional manual transmission, a lever acts as a switch, which is operated by the driver through manual force. Today, this lever has been replaced by a control washer, which is located between the seats. This regulator has increased the comfort of driving an SUV.

One of the main advantages of the new Daimos distribution box is its ability to withstand increased loads. In addition, the new unit has grown in size compared to its predecessor. This entailed a change in the design of the propeller shaft of the rear axle of the UAZ Patriot, after which it began to be produced in one piece. Previously, this transmission element was a pair of hollow pipes with an intermediate connection segment. Now this link (bearing) is absent, which favorably helps to reduce the level of vibrations and increases the resource of the entire mechanism.

Also, the design of the transfer case made it possible to abandon many of the gears and shafts that were present in the old box. Now in the Dymos unit, the chain is the transmitter of the moment, which significantly reduces the noise of the mechanism as a whole.

Note that in order to increase the clearance, the manufacturer raised the new razdatka and fixed it as high as possible. The clearance is now 320 mm.

To ensure the possibility of installing the Korean box in the UAZ Patriot drive system, the designers had to change the transmission tunnel. Its dimensions are larger. Due to the larger dimensions of the new dispensing unit, the developers had to abandon the hand brake. Previously, the handbrake blocked the rear propeller shaft, and the mechanism itself was located near the transfer case. Now special mechanisms located in close proximity to the discs are responsible for blocking the wheels.

1. Providing better cross-country ability, since now the gear ratio of the main stage of the unit is 2.56 instead of 1.94, as it was on the old transfer case. The SUV has become able to confidently overcome obstacles when there is a Daimos handout on it.
2. The new box is easy to operate. This was made possible by the presence of a progressive regulator, which the manufacturer placed in the central tunnel.
3. Absence of third-party noises that could previously be produced by a mechanical dispensing unit.

For the updated UAZ Patriot, an upgraded gearbox has become available. It was kindly presented by the same company - Dymos.

Gearbox from Dymos on UAZ Patriot

The unit is equipped with a five-stage gear selection mechanism, which has proven itself on the positive side in terms of reliability. The box requires a minimum of maintenance and is famous for its excellent resource. Despite the fact that the Daimos transmission and razdatka are combined units, the manufacturer has provided lubricants for them with different consistencies.

To remove the transfer unit for repair, you will need to resort to the simultaneous dismantling of the transmission unit. The scheme is suitable for this purpose. Only after such a procedure will it be possible to disconnect the mechanisms. Units are connected by means of nuts. There is a layer of sealant between the housings.

In the photo we see the Dymos transmission combined with the transfer unit.

If there is interest in the technology of dismantling and disassembling the box, then you can familiarize yourself with it here on the website.

Now let's talk about the types of malfunctions that are typical for the UAZ Patriot dispensing unit, and the reasons for them. Your car will probably need repairs after diagnosis, and a diagram will come in handy for this purpose.

Breakdowns and causes of the transfer case

Despite the fact that, in general, the Korean Daimos handout box is a fairly reliable unit, it is still possible that the impact of various factors causing malfunctions is possible. What is this breakdown?

1. The low gear in the box began to turn off spontaneously.
2. There is a grease leak from the unit housing.
3. The noise of the mechanism, accompanied by vibration, appeared.
4. Presence of traces of crumbling teeth and backlash in bearings.
5. The chain tension level has decreased.

What causes these faults to appear? The reasons may lie among the following factors:

1. The component components of both the transfer case itself and the transmission unit were worn out.
2. The owner is inclined to drive for a long time with the front axle activated, having her needs for that.
3. Systematic impact of increased loads caused by improper operation of the dispensing unit.
4. Use of a lubricant that does not fall under the manufacturer's regulations.
5. The mount of the motor mountings is loose or these components have become unusable, which will be indicated by vibration at start.
6. Prolonged exposure to vibrations, which can be caused by improper tire pressure or other factors, including wear of the driveline.
7. Incorrect modifications of the units in the UAZ Patriot drive system.

When the indicated signs appear, the owner of the UAZ Patriot is advised not to postpone for a long time with the diagnosis of the drive, but to take measures to identify faults as soon as possible and eliminate them. And if repairs are required, the scheme will help in this matter.

Let's sum up

Here's some important information! Some owners set themselves the goal of replacing the old transfer case with a new unit. Can you do this? Installation of a Korean unit on a UAZ Patriot is possible, but some work will need to be done. Repair can be done independently, the scheme will help with this. Here it is necessary to replace the tunnel cover, cardan drives, transmission unit frame cross members, handbrake actuator, electrical wiring and fuel lines.

print

Naturally, it does not pretend to be true, but it can be used as a visual guide for the repair of the Daimos gearbox.

So the checkpoint at the workbench. Where to begin? Now, I would start - by screwing this gearbox back and would never contact it. Joke type. However, in every joke ...

All the same, we must start by studying the only manual for repairing daimos that exists at the moment: tynts (third-party resource).

After studying this crooked manual, and it is really crooked, you will begin to have a vague sensation that you cannot yet characterize in any way. Later, yes. But not right now. Now everything is rosy ...

So.

We unscrew the cover of the gear shift shaft. Please note that all joints are lined with a sufficiently high-quality sealant, and the screws sit on the thread sealant. Therefore, the process of separating cramps from cramps is difficult in most cases.

Along the way, we inspect the rubber boot of the switch stem.

Then, with a spanner key for 24, unscrew the reverse gear switch.

Please note that it is sealed to the body with a copper washer. According to science, they are disposable and when the sensor is installed in place, the shayolbox changes to a new one. Otherwise, oil leakage is possible.

We return to the gearshift stem box. We unscrew this bolt that closes the technological hole. It serves for the stem removal.

To my shame, I must admit that until that moment I did not have a normal set of drifts. And instead of drifts, I used old, unnecessary, not beautiful and for whatever reason, only I know, guilty drills, of a suitable size.

We also pay attention to the thread sealant and the copper washer.

Now, unscrew the three cover bolts from the wells of the speed switch rods lock. There is also a thread sealant.

We stock up on a small magnet and use it to pull out the springs and locking balls. Alternatively, roll over the gearbox housing with the holes down and lightly tap ...

With the rear of the checkpoint, that's all. We pass to the bell.

We unscrew the front cover. I entrusted this business to the younger generation 😉

When the cover is unscrewed, this does not mean that it can be removed easily. Because the sealant glued it well enough. It is extremely convenient to pick up the edge of the cover with a long flat screwdriver, through the starter hole in the bell and pry off the cover with a lever. Along the way, we evaluate the condition of the oil seal in the cover.

Now a small Kama Sutra with the removal of retaining rings. I don’t know how to whom, but they were given to me in a very dreary way ... And this is in the presence of a normal tool for removing them ...

In general, after the retaining ring is removed from the input shaft in the area of \u200b\u200bthe front support bearing, the manual reads this phrase: "Remove the bearing from the shaft."

This is the first place where the namba wan pattern break begins. For the bearing:

1. flush and stsuko flush
2. closed type
3. sits not just tight, but VERY tight ...

In general, it is not really necessary to perform the “Remove the bearing” step at this stage. Take my word for it. Although ... If you have a tendency to masochism, then by all means try. I guarantee the result!

I came to the conclusion that it is necessary to halve the gearbox housings without removing the bearing.

Unscrew dofig bolts around the joint. Note that there is one more screw in the gearshift stem box, above the stem!

I must also say that the halves sit very tightly on the guide bushings. There are only two of them, but you still won't be able to easily separate the halves. Plus, it's a tough sealant in there, be it wrong. In general, when you have a gap, we carefully enlarge it with improvised means until you stop. And you will resist! The gap will be about a centimeter and a half in size.

From this moment on, breaking the namba tu pattern.

The bottom line is that the front thrust bearing is VERY tight on the input shaft. And, of course, it interferes with halving the gearbox housing.

The essence of the process is clear from the photo. We post as much as possible in our conditions. Take a piece of soft material such as copper / luminous / duralumin. This piece will be a spacer between the end of the input shaft and the popularly loved universal wrench, "Earth-to-Earth" class, "Sledgehammer" type ...

We put a soft gasket on the end of the input shaft. With the help of the mantra “How great is my love for Ipany Chinese engineers”, the memories of a certain mother and the reciprocating movements of a special key “Sledgehammer” type, we separate the bell with a support bearing from the input shaft.

It is after this stage that the bearing can be easily removed by hand from the seat in the bell, which will be on the floor 😉

Back to the fillet ...

To remove the rear gearbox housing, remove the pusher rod of the gearshift switches. For this, it must be pinned. Attention! There are two short pins, not one long one like on the shift forks.

Remove the second reverse gear axle bolt.

And remove the retaining rings from the output shaft end. Pull out the retaining crescents and remove the retaining ring from the secondary shaft tandem support bearing.

At this point, you will be awaited by the template break number sri ...

Because the manual says that you need to unpin the gearshift forks and shift pushers. How this is supposed to be done when a good half of the pins are in the depths of the crankcase is not clear. But, if you remember that Chinese electricity has not yet been studied at all, then it’s even scary to think about Chinese mechanics ... Qigong there, Shao-lin and all that ...

In general, we tie all the giblets as they are and hang them again. We try to adjust the suspension so that the belts do not press on the 3-4 gear shift clutch and the axis of the shafts is maximally perpendicular to the plane of the mother earth. If you slide the clutch more than usual, an amazing adventure is guaranteed to find the three ejection balls of the synchronizer. Again, for masochists, the next stage in delivering themselves unforgettable pleasure ...

Then we need to heat the crankcase housing around the double bearing. I used an industrial hairdryer for this. Temperature 500 degrees, within five to ten minutes. So that the crankcase would warm up thoroughly. Then, by reciprocating movements of a rubber mallet of the class "Narcosis", we present the crankcase body. The duration of the execution does not depend on anything and is purely random. Checked for three times assembly / disassembly of the unit (later I'll tell you why) ...

Attention! There are two plungers in the gearbox housing in the area of \u200b\u200bthe partitions of the rod wells. Do not lose them when turning the crankcase body over. Then you will not find such!

If the balls from the synchron have not ejected, you are lucky. At this stage, you can pour yourself 100 grams of good cognac and postpone further work for "Morning, evenings are wiser" ...

Take my word for it 😉

UPD1:

My dear readers!

Do not ask me questions about the repair of your gearbox, please! Firstly, I cannot and have no right to give advice without seeing the unit with my own eyes and without holding it with my own hands. Secondly, this is roughly how to make a diagnosis over the phone. No tests ...

This blog post is for informational purposes only. Its purpose is to show you visually the giblets and general methods of working with this checkpoint. No more.

The UAZ Patriot manual gearbox is designed to transmit torque and change the vehicle speed. An additional transfer case with a reduction gear is installed in the transmission design, which distributes the power flow between the drive axles. Depending on the year of manufacture of the car, a domestic-made dispensing unit or a unit developed by the Korean company Dymos is used.

The Patriot uses a 5-speed gearbox equipped with synchronizers for forward gears. The unit is connected to the engine via a clutch housing; a 1-disc dry friction clutch with a hydraulic drive is used to transmit torque from the motor. The choice of speeds is carried out by a lever installed on the transmission case cover, the handle is brought out through a hole in the floor of the body into the passenger compartment. At the end of the lever there is a plastic tip with a speed selection diagram.

On machines assembled before 2005, there are 2 types of boxes:

• unit assembled in Ulyanovsk (gear ratio of the overspeed 0.82);
• arKPP unit developed by the Arzamas Machine-Building Plant (article 31606-1700010, gear ratio of the overdrive stage 0.86).

The Ulyanovsk boxes were used on the machines of the first batches, then the plant began to use the Arzamas unit, which was distinguished by an original stage switching scheme. To engage reverse gear, move the lever to the position opposite the 1st forward speed, and 4th gear for forward movement is moved to the place of the standard reverse speed.

Such an arrangement provides accelerated switching of the direction of travel when overcoming off-road by the swing method. The safety lock has been removed from the reverse speed engagement circuit, which reduces the time to select the direction of travel. The transmission did not differ in high reliability and precision of work, which is why, since 2005, it was supplanted by the Korean checkpoint Daimos.

A brief sequence of disassembly of the ARKPP unit from the UAZ Patriot:

1. Dismantle the box from the car, and then rinse or wipe the crankcase from dust and oil drips.
2. Remove the gear selection mechanism from the side of the housing, and then unscrew the plug with the overdrive spring lock.
3. Remove the rings retaining the output shaft rear bearing from the seat. Unscrew the 5th speed crankcase securing bolts to remove the axle support.
4. Remove the left-hand threaded bolt holding the rear intermediate shaft support, and then remove the overdrive gear along with the needle bearing.
5. Unscrew the overspeed fork fixing screw to remove the drive rod and clutch.
6. Using a puller, remove the secondary shaft bearing together with the driven gear of the 5th stage. The puller is also used to remove the overspeed synchronizer hub from the intermediate axle.
7. Remove the front cover and remove the circlip holding the input shaft bearing.
8. Remove the protective covers of the intermediate shaft bearing, and then pull out the axle and remove the reverse gear. To dismantle the gear, a bolt is used, inserted into a threaded hole drilled in the end plane of the shaft.
9. Using a screw puller, pull off the bearings installed on the input and intermediate shafts.
10. Slide the intermediate shaft forward to remove the front roller bearing.
11. Remove the input and output shafts as an assembly from the crankcase. Then remove the circlip to allow the intermediate axle to be removed.

Used since 2005, the Dymos gearbox is equipped with 3 gear shafts, some of which slide along the splines to provide gear shifting. An oil bath is located in the lower part of the body, lubricant is supplied to the rubbing parts due to the rotation of the gear wheels, scattering the liquid over the crankcase. The box has an overdrive 5th speed with a gear ratio of 0.88, which helps to reduce engine speed and fuel consumption when driving on the highway.

The box is distinguished by the use of the classic step selection scheme. Disconnect the fuse to engage reverse gear. The unit has an increased clarity of switching, but it does not tolerate loads well (for example, when driving for a long time in difficult off-road conditions). An additional advantage of the gearbox is the reduced noise during operation, the improvement was achieved due to additional machining of the tooth surfaces.

The disadvantages of the unit include destruction during operation of the rear oil seal, due to which the tightness of the crankcase is disrupted. Transmission oil begins to flow into the cavity of the transfer case. Gears and rolling bearings in the main box, working in conditions of lack of lubrication, begin to wear out. The resulting metal dust enters the contact surfaces, accelerating the wear of the elements.

Damaged parts begin to make noise during operation, there are problems with the inclusion of steps, possibly spontaneous disengagement of gears.

Reasons for breakdown of the transfer case

The main reasons for the breakdown of the gear transfer case on the Patriot:

1. Normal wear and tear of parts, leading to the destruction of gears or bearings. To restore normal operating conditions, it is necessary to remove the unit and check the condition of the parts, damaged components must be replaced. When installing gears, parts should be selected according to the gap, which allows to reduce the noise of work.
2. The use of tires of different diameters on the front and rear axles leads to difficult gear shifting. The cause of the defect may be damage to the gears, jamming of the spline connection or parts of the gear selection mechanism.
3. Worn gears and bearings lead to spontaneous shutdown of speeds. The defect occurs due to breakage of the retainer of the selected gear or when the parts of the shift mechanism are bent.
4. Worn gaskets or mechanical damage to the crankcase or covers lead to lubricant leakage from the housing. Oil can ooze through the rubber shaft seals, which eventually lose their elasticity and dry out.

Dymos transfer gearboxes use a chain drive and electric shift drive. With prolonged movement with increased load, the chain stretches and collapses, which leads to the appearance of extraneous noise. If a problem occurs with electronic components, an error notification is displayed on the display in the instrument cluster.

To clarify the reason for the message, computer diagnostics are performed.

During operation, the box does not require adjustment, but the driver must periodically check the oil level in the crankcase. Do not operate the unit if foam or water is found in the lubricating fluid. Contaminated oil is drained through a standard hole, and then fresh grease is poured into the crankcase (in accordance with the manufacturer's requirements). If oil leaks are found, it is necessary to disassemble the unit with replacement of gaskets or damaged covers or mounting screws.

Difficulty switching speeds indicates worn synchronizers or damage to the shift forks. Spontaneous knocking out of speed during movement occurs due to a broken clutch or due to wear on bearings or gears. To reduce the effect of wear products, it is necessary to carry out a routine oil change every 60 thousand km.

The drained fluid is checked for metal impurities that enter the lubricant as a result of the destruction of gearbox parts.

To remove the Dymos unit with your own hands, you will need to follow the steps:

1. Drain the oil from the crankcases of the main box and the transfer gearbox, and then disconnect the flange connection of the propeller shaft of the front axle drive.
2. Remove the rear propeller shaft intermediate support bolts. The drives are not disconnected from the axles, the pipes are retracted to the side of the box and are attached with wire to the frame or suspension elements.
3. Disconnect the speed sensor plug and then remove the catalytic converter together with the protective shield.
4. After dismantling the clutch actuator and the parking brake intermediate actuator, the front exhaust pipe must be removed. Then a jack with a board is placed under the engine crankcase, which allows you to remove the rear box mount.
5. Remove the cross member located under the box. Then the unit should be lowered down, which allows separating the control levers of the main box and the transfer gearbox.
6. Remove the reverse gear indicator plug, and then remove the bolts connecting the box to the crankcase. The transmission assembly must be pulled back and moved down.

Dymos box disassembly algorithm

The transfer gearbox is attached to the box crankcase with 2 nuts and 2 bolts. Then the gear selection mechanism is removed, which is additionally fixed on the sealant. There is a bolt inside the niche that can be unscrewed with a spanner wrench. To remove the rear cover, you need to unscrew the screws located around the perimeter of the crankcase. On the side of the box there is a bolt holding the intermediate shaft with the reverse gear, which must be unscrewed. The second shaft mounting bolt is partially unscrewed.

On the left side of the box crankcase there is a plug, under which there is a spring with a ball. After removing the plug, it is necessary to unscrew the screws securing the input shaft journal (located on the side of the clutch mechanism installation site). Remove the retaining ring and pull out the ball bearing using a puller, which will divide the box crankcase into 2 halves. Then the previously loosened bolt of the reverse gear axle is unscrewed, which allows you to remove the part.

Using a thin screwdriver or awl, the pins are knocked out holding the shift rods in place. Hang the crankcase cover with gears by the output shaft, and then heat the bearing seat with a burner. After heating the local area of \u200b\u200bthe body to 400 ° C, the metal crankcase is knocked off the supports. Then the shafts are disassembled one by one, which makes it possible to determine the degree of wear of the parts. After the installation of new elements, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order, during installation, the position of the parts is taken into account and the tightening torque is observed.

So so. the problem was the following, when driving, if you quickly stick in the 3rd gear, you can hear (and feel on the handle) a tangible crunch. If you stick it in slowly and carefully, then without a crunch. And the more often you push the lever, the stronger the crunch. And the slower, the greater the likelihood of perfect transmission. The diagnosis is simple, the synchronizer is erased. For replacement, you must throw off both boxes and disassemble. In one case, I will replace the noisy promval bearing.

it turned out to be not at all difficult to remove the distributor even without a hole, we unscrew the bolts and pull it down,
it is necessary to put something soft on the floor because 40 kg in a twisted state under the car cannot be kept

it is even easier to remove the box because it hangs on chains, it can be carefully lowered

i will underestimate the distribution box to 3.3 but later, so I took it apart to see the number of splines on the shaft, since there are options for 12 and 18 splines, the lowering kit is made for the option with 18 splines

Pulling the shaft bearing is a test for the nerves. In the beginning I tried to weld that
then to the bearing and pull it off but the welding broke. My recipe is as follows: we take two long bolts, we cut the caps with a grinder, on the sides to make an oval, we break the separator in the bearing, put the bots in the bearing and wedge it. then press out with a puller

In the box itself on the shaft, I have not yet removed the stars, only today I bought a three-legged puller, so to be continued, criticism and advice are very welcome, since I myself am the first to repair the box. no repair experience yet.

UAZ Patriot 2008, gasoline engine 2.7 l., 128 hp s., four-wheel drive, manual transmission - do it yourself

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Comments 41

Hello, tell me how you removed the input shaft without removing the output shaft gear? Does he run into a gear?

with the help of this puller I was only able to remove the bearing from the input shaft. 4 hours I "hated" it with a "machine" with a sledgehammer in a suspended state and nothing, a centimeter, and everything. I bought a bearing on the input shaft, now it remains on the front shaft to find you can put everything in place.

russian ingenuity is our ALL.

Good day. The problem is this: the programs began to turn on with a crunch. from the second to the third with a crunch, from the third to the second with a crunch, from the second to the first it turns on almost to a complete stop, you stand at the place of transmission, everyone turns on without a crunch, what is the reason? I replaced the clutch kit with STARCO with a double damper, the gears also engage with a crunch, in the morning, while the cold, quietly as the clutch warms up, it starts to rumble harder than on the old one, you press the clutch pedal quietly release the rumble again. Where to dig the clutch roofing felts gearbox? Hunter zmz 514

we don’t do abortions on the internet

Hello good people ... my problem is this: the gearbox diamonds on the UAZ patriot of 2008 began to make noise + buzz. decided to disassemble and change the bearings. Changed four main bearings. After assembling the gearbox, the noise + hum disappeared ... but there was a knock ... the gearbox knocks at idle and in all gears ... but when the clutch is pressed, the knock disappears and the clutch release and the clutch disc put new ones ... please tell me what could be? Thank you in advance

what was the reason for the knocking?

I also switch a little slower on the new one and that's it

maybe so?

I have a runaway of 166tyk with a penny, I climbed everywhere except the checkpoint, I use it mercilessly, without hesitation, sometimes it also crunches, in any gear, but this is from a hasty shifting and not releasing the pedal. And until the stake gets up, I won't climb, because The gearbox is the most accurate and with minimum tolerances unit from everything that is in the car.

What a tin ... Is it on a new car? How much is the mileage?

it is not new)) 72

oh how. questions like that, all at once so that later on a new one does not climb?

Exactly. I regretted that I had not changed everything at once, I was stingy on the price. Now I'm waiting for spring to take off the korobas again and bring it to mind.

Congratulations on parsing the box. The procedure is painfully familiar and haemorrhoid! The bearing that you took off so hard is the input shaft bearing. It was not necessary to touch it, but simply to remove the bell, and the bearing itself would remain on the shaft. Now the next thing, if you climbed there, then change all 4 bearings at once, namely on the input shaft, which you removed at the very beginning. An oil seal bearing between the box and the distributor box and two tapered bearings on the shaft. And change sync 1-2 and 3-4 gears. If you have any questions, ask.

Greetings to all, and where did you buy spare parts for the gearbox, gears?

I took a normal flight from a guy here vk.com/kppdaymos

Congratulations on parsing the box. The procedure is painfully familiar and haemorrhoid! The bearing that you took off so hard is the input shaft bearing. It was not necessary to touch it, but simply to remove the bell, and the bearing itself would remain on the shaft. Now the next thing, if you climbed there, then change all 4 bearings at once, namely on the input shaft, which you removed at the very beginning. An oil seal bearing between the box and the distributor box and two tapered bearings on the shaft. And change sync 1-2 and 3-4 gears. If you have any questions, ask.

And the old synchromes are no longer a case? Do you have sizes of bronze rings?

So the checkpoint at the workbench. Where to begin? Now, I would start - by screwing this gearbox back and would never contact it. Joke type. However, in every joke ...

All the same, we must start by studying the only manual for repairing daimos that exists at the moment: tynts (third-party resource).

After studying this crooked manual, and it is really crooked, you will begin to have a vague sensation that you cannot yet characterize in any way. Later, yes. But not right now. Now everything is rosy ...

We unscrew the cover of the gear shift shaft. Please note that all joints are lined with a sufficiently high-quality sealant, and the screws sit on the thread sealant. Therefore, the process of separating cramps from cramps is difficult in most cases.

Along the way, we inspect the rubber boot of the switch stem.

Then, with a spanner key for 24, unscrew the reverse gear switch.

Please note that it is sealed to the body with a copper washer. According to science, they are disposable and when the sensor is installed in place, the shayolbox changes to a new one. Otherwise, oil leakage is possible.

We return to the gearshift stem box. We unscrew this bolt that closes the technological hole. It serves for the stem removal.

To my shame, I must admit that until that moment I did not have a normal set of drifts. And instead of drifts, I used old, unnecessary, not beautiful and for whatever reason, only I know, guilty drills, of a suitable size.

This is how we knock out the pin from the stock.

We also pay attention to the thread sealant and the copper washer.

Now, unscrew the three cover bolts from the wells of the speed switch rods lock. There is also a thread sealant.

We stock up on a small magnet and use it to pull out the springs and locking balls. Alternatively, roll over the gearbox housing with the holes down and lightly tap ...

With the rear of the checkpoint, that's all. We pass to the bell.

We unscrew the front cover. I entrusted this business to the younger generation 😉

When the cover is unscrewed, this does not mean that it can be removed easily. Because the sealant glued it well enough. It is extremely convenient to pick up the edge of the cover with a long flat screwdriver, through the starter hole in the bell and pry off the cover with a lever. Along the way, we evaluate the condition of the oil seal in the cover.

Now a small Kama Sutra with the removal of retaining rings. I don’t know how to whom, but they were given to me in a very dreary way ... And this is in the presence of a normal tool for removing them ...

In general, after the retaining ring is removed from the input shaft in the area of \u200b\u200bthe front support bearing, the manual reads this phrase: "Remove the bearing from the shaft."

This is the first place where the namba wan pattern break begins. For the bearing:

1. flush and stsuko flush
2. closed type
3. sits not just tight, but VERY tight ...

In general, it is not really necessary to perform the “Remove the bearing” step at this stage. Take my word for it. Although ... If you have a tendency to masochism, then by all means try. I guarantee the result!

I came to the conclusion that it is necessary to halve the gearbox housings without removing the bearing.

Unscrew dofig bolts around the joint. Note that there is one more screw in the gearshift stem box, above the stem!

I must also say that the halves sit very tightly on the guide bushings. There are only two of them, but you still won't be able to easily separate the halves. Plus, it's a tough sealant in there, be it wrong. In general, when you have a gap, we carefully enlarge it with improvised means until you stop. And you will resist! The gap will be about a centimeter and a half in size.

From this moment on, breaking the namba tu pattern.

The bottom line is that the front thrust bearing is VERY tight on the input shaft. And, of course, it interferes with halving the gearbox housing.

The essence of the process is clear from the photo. We post as much as possible in our conditions. Take a piece of soft material such as copper / luminous / duralumin. This piece will be a spacer between the end of the input shaft and the popularly loved universal wrench, "Earth-to-Earth" class, "Sledgehammer" type ...

We put a soft gasket on the end of the input shaft. With the help of the mantra “How great is my love for Ipany Chinese engineers”, the memories of a certain mother and the reciprocating movements of a special key “Sledgehammer” type, we separate the bell with a support bearing from the input shaft.

It is after this stage that the bearing can be easily removed by hand from the seat in the bell, which will be on the floor 😉

Back to the fillet ...

To remove the rear gearbox housing, remove the pusher rod of the gearshift switches. For this, it must be pinned. Attention! There are two short pins, not one long one like on the shift forks.

Remove the second reverse gear axle bolt.

And remove the retaining rings from the output shaft end. Pull out the retaining crescents and remove the retaining ring from the secondary shaft tandem support bearing.

At this point, you will be awaited by the template break number sri ...

Because the manual says that you need to unpin the gearshift forks and shift pushers. How this is supposed to be done when a good half of the pins are in the depths of the crankcase is not clear. But, if you remember that Chinese electricity has not yet been studied at all, then it’s even scary to think about Chinese mechanics ... Qigong there, Shao-lin and all that ...

In general, we tie all the giblets as they are and hang them again. We try to adjust the suspension so that the belts do not press on the 3-4 gear shift clutch and the axis of the shafts is maximally perpendicular to the plane of the mother earth. If you slide the clutch more than usual, an amazing adventure is guaranteed to find the three ejection balls of the synchronizer. Again, for masochists, the next stage in delivering themselves unforgettable pleasure ...

Then we need to heat the crankcase housing around the double bearing. I used an industrial hairdryer for this. Temperature 500 degrees, within five to ten minutes. So that the crankcase would warm up thoroughly. Then, by reciprocating movements of a rubber mallet of the class "Narcosis", we present the crankcase body. The duration of the execution does not depend on anything and is purely random. Checked for three times assembly / disassembly of the unit (later I'll tell you why) ...

Attention! There are two plungers in the gearbox housing in the area of \u200b\u200bthe partitions of the rod wells. Do not lose them when turning the crankcase body over. Then you will not find such!

If the balls from the synchron have not ejected, you are lucky. At this stage, you can pour yourself 100 grams of good cognac and postpone further work for "Morning, evenings are wiser" ...

Take my word for it 😉

My dear readers!

Do not ask me questions about the repair of your gearbox, please! Firstly, I cannot and have no right to give advice without seeing the unit with my own eyes and without holding it with my own hands. Secondly, this is roughly how to make a diagnosis over the phone. No tests ...

This blog post is for informational purposes only. Its purpose is to show you visually the giblets and general methods of working with this checkpoint. No more.

26 thoughts on “UAZ Patriot. Dismantling of the check point "Dymos" (Daimos). "

Please tell me this Korean crap has its own handout or you can shove a simple UAZ one just the guys gave a loin but I don't know if it's worth bothering or not

At this checkpoint, both old-style RKs (UAZ) and new ones, also Daimos, were used.

Hello. when seating in place of the secondary shaft of the flushing shaft and rods with forks, one of the rods does not sit completely. Apparently, the pin of blocking the inclusion of two speeds at once interferes. What to do? (I did not unpin the plug of the third gear).

Ilya, hello. If you yourself do not see or are not sure of the reason (“the pin seems to be interfering), then how can I answer you? On the internet. Not seeing the unit itself.

Hello. I got a noise in the box like a tractor. Checked the oil was not there. Then they opened it and where the gears of the 1st shaft were like a knife. And the gear of the block is exactly the one that connects with the 1st was the wing on one side. And we found a box with a whole body of a burned-out UAZ that was driving only 2 months from the salon. And they opened this box and pulled out from the 1st shaft and block of gears. All assembled in place, put the box. 1) The sound there is reduced by 80%. 2) the speed on the 4th to insert tightly)) 3) to the rear spruce it will stand up and when you release the turn it is immediately thrown away. I have such a problem. Do you have a video of a complete overhaul or some advice?

According to the video, just what I posted in the reports. And I can not give advice. Because I didn't twist your box myself

Thank you for a very good report, the conclusion when reading is unambiguous ... In case of breakage of the Daimos box, buy a new box)))
And so I was looking for where is there the most, well, which can be brought under the hood. Found only with you, thanks.

Hello, where to buy a 3.4 Dimos shift fork? Patriot 2005.

REPAIR of the UAZ gearbox of all models (ADS, DIMOS)
mechanical gearbox
installation | sale | replacement of manual transmission UAZ of all modifications
clutch replacement
moscow city

Artem 8 965 126 13 83 Vadim 8 925 675 78 75

Dismantling and troubleshooting of your checkpoint is carried out within 2 hours in your presence.
Disassembly and assembly cost - 5000 rubles. + spare parts upon wear.
Removal and installation of the box on the car / for repair / - 7000 rubles.

Warranty 3 months or 60,000 km. mileage.

New UAZ gearbox

We have a fund restored checkpoint UAZ... If the car owner wishes, we can replace the faulty one with ours from the exchange fund, which is often more economically expedient.

Prices for additional work when repairing a UAZ gearbox:

Job title

Amount

Complex troubleshooting (disassembly, assembly without repair)

Oil change and diagnostics

Replacing the clutch (as a separate work)

Removal and installation of a manual gearbox as a separate job - no repair

Replacing the clutch with the gearbox removed

Example of disassembling the gearbox of the UAZ ADS gearbox

The car owner drew attention to the harsh noise that appeared when driving on the highway in fifth gear. During disassembly, the following was found and must be replaced: a damaged intermediate shaft, a set of bearings, a fifth gear fork, oil seals, an interbody gasket. An example in the photos below:

The second example of the UAZ ADS box - the owner also complained about the harsh noise when driving in fifth gear. When disassembling the gearbox, a fracture of the tooth of the fifth gear gear was revealed (the intermediate shaft is intact). Plus, the bearing shaft bearings and oil seals are subject to replacement. We wash the inside of the case with nefras (industrial solvent) to remove steel chips and old oil.

Diagram of the gearbox of the gearbox UAZ
gearbox assembly

gearbox case uaz

gearboxes front uaz

gear selector forks uaz

uaz gearbox wings

hand-out gearbox uaz assembly

uaz transfer case gears

uaz transfer case shaft gear

selection of gears transfer case uaz

UAZ 3151 gearbox (after bulkhead).

Replacement of bearings and gearbox oil seals.

Specificity of UAZ gearboxes: typical malfunctions and repair features

Functional differences between the ADS and Dymos gearboxes

Technical features of the UAZ BUKHANKA gearbox

Advantages and features of the UAZ FERMER checkpoint

Specificity of the transfer case of modern modifications of the UAZ

Photo report of disassembly and repair of the gearbox of the UAZ HUNTER gearbox

The car entered for repairs due to the harsh noise from the manual transmission. As a result of disassembling the box, a defect in the bearing bearings on the gearbox shafts was revealed. We change bearings, gearbox oil seals. We wash the gearbox housing with nefras from inclusions of steel chips and old oil. Photos below.

Today we are raising a necessary and difficult topic - the disassembly of the checkpoint. Each of us knows that disassembling a checkpoint is another task that requires a serious approach, time and track methods of disassembly. UAZ is equipped with a mechanical 5-speed box of Korean origin Daimos... The unit is, in principle, reliable and often does not require intervention from the car owner for a very long time. But if the gears are switched with effort and spontaneously knocked out, then you still have to disassemble the box. The laboriousness of the gearbox disassembly process is a serious argument for a thorough diagnosis. before deciding to disassemble. We recommend putting a special emphasis on the clutchsince its functioning is directly related to the normal operation of the Dymos UAZ Patriot gearbox. But do not forget about the UAZ Patroit cardan shaft, the elements of which are produced and affect the power load of the same box.

What you need to check first so as not to disassemble the Daimos checkpoint on the UAZ Patriot in vain:

• Oil level

• Fasteners on bolted joints of the box itself

• Clutch Drive Condition

• To disassemble the box first you need to dismantle it... First of all, the gearbox protection cover is removed.

• As for the cream of butter, opinions are divided here, some manage to remove the gearbox along with the oil, draining only from the distributor, while others are completely drained. If you disassemble the dymos UAZ patriot gearbox completely, then you need to drain the entire volume of oil.

• It is necessary to dismantle the bearing fork and the bearing itself.

• Remove the cover of the shift mechanism together with the lever.

• Use a wrench to unscrew the reverse light sensor.

• Carefully knock out the stem head pin with a hammer.

• Unscrew the bolt, which functions as the idler reverse gear axle.

• When you have mastered all the flange connections, you can magnetically fish out the plungers and springs.

• Now we dismantle the retaining ring and finally remove the bearing from the input shaft.

• We remove the front case of the Daimos UAZ Patriot gearbox from the bolted connections.

• To get to the secondary shaft without losing important components, do not forget to remove the retaining rings from the shaft.

• To dismantle the axle, you need to unscrew the idler gear bolt.

• It is convenient to knock out locking pins with a thin punch, as neatly as possible, but they still have to be replaced with new ones in the process of reversing the assembly.

• We remove the gear shift rods of the Dymos UAZ Patriot gearbox.

• The procedure for separating the crankcase and output shaft will require suspension by the shaft... This will open access to the cart. To remove the crankcase, you need to warm up its rear wall. Classic gas burners are increasingly replacing UV lamps with a power of 5-6 kW, because they are safer and have even heating without an open flame. After warming up, the shafts are disconnected by a hammer breakdown.

So, you disassembled the box, now we are carefully studying the condition of the gears and inspecting each component, checking for integrity. Dismantling the Daimos UAZ Patriot gearbox is a real, but not such an easy task, it can be seen even by the dismantling algorithm itself. So that if you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to drive Patrick to the service center and entrust it to the professionals... Indeed, after disassembly, you will first have to rinse everything in kerosene or diesel fuel, so that the blockage does not interfere with the normal operation of the unit, and only then put the “puzzles” of the checkpoint in the reverse order.