Toys of our grandfathers

Divorce PAIRS!

You won't hear anything like that at any competition today. Meanwhile, in the 1920s and 1930s, many modelers used a steam engine on ship, car and even aircraft models. The most popular was the oscillating cylinder steam engine. It is easy to manufacture ... However, let us give the floor to the az-toru - modeler Alexander Nikolaevich Ilyin: at the request of the editorial board, he made and tested a ship model with such an engine.

Reliability and safety are the main criteria that guided me when choosing a type of steam engine. Tests have shown that a steam engine with an oscillating cylinder can withstand even double overloads if the model is made correctly and accurately.

But it was not for nothing that I emphasized accuracy - it is the key to success. Try to follow all our recommendations exactly.

Now let's talk about the steam engine itself. Figures I and II show the principle of its operation and design.

A cylinder (parts 1, 2 and 13) with a spool plate 8 is hinged on the bed 11. A hole 3 is drilled in the cylinder and spool plate for steam inlet and outlet. In addition, another spool plate is rigidly mounted on the bed.

bar 4. Two holes are drilled in it. During the operation of the steam engine, when the cylinder bore is aligned with the right bore of the spool plate 4, steam enters the cylinder (see Fig. I, phase A). The expanding steam pushes the piston 13 down to the so-called bottom dead center (phase B). Thanks to the flywheel 9, the movement of the piston at this point will not stop, carried away by inertia, it rises upward, pushing out the exhaust steam. As soon as the cylinder bore coincides with the left bore of plate 4, steam will be released into the atmosphere (phase B).

The spool plates, as you understand, must be tightly fitted to each other, otherwise steam will penetrate into the gap and the engine efficiency will noticeably decrease. Therefore, a spring is installed on the axis 7, which presses the plate 4 to the plate 8. In addition to the main function, this unit also serves as a safety valve. When the pressure in the boiler rises for any reason, the spring will be compressed, the plates will disperse and the excess steam will come out. Therefore, the spring is tightened with a nut so that the motor shaft can make several revolutions by inertia. Check it out by turning it with your hand.

Steam enters the machine through

5 "Young Technician" No. 2

You won't hear anything like that at any competition today. Meanwhile, in the 1920s and 1930s, many modelers used a steam engine on ship, car and even aircraft models. The most popular was the oscillating cylinder steam engine. It is easy to manufacture - However, let us give the floor to the author - modeler Alexander Nikolaevich Ilyin: at the request of the editorial board, he made and tested a ship model with such an engine

Reliability and safety are the main criteria that guided me when choosing a type of steam engine. Tests have shown that a steam engine with an oscillating cylinder can withstand even double overloads if the model is made correctly and accurately.

But it was not for nothing that I emphasized accuracy - it is the key to success. Try to follow all our recommendations exactly.

Now let's talk about the steam engine itself. Figures I and II show the principle of its operation and design.

A cylinder (parts 1, 2 and 13) with a spool plate is hinged on the bed 11. A hole 3 is drilled in the cylinder and spool plate for steam inlet and outlet. In addition, another spool plate is rigidly mounted on the bed 4. In it, two are drilled holes. During the operation of the steam engine, when the cylinder bore is aligned with the right bore of the spool plate 4, steam enters the cylinder (see Fig. I, phase A). The expanding steam pushes the piston 13 down to the so-called bottom dead center (phase B). Thanks to the flywheel 9, the movement of the piston at this point will not stop, carried away by inertia, it rises upward, pushing out the exhaust steam. As soon as the cylinder bore aligns with the left bore of plate 4, steam will escape to atmosphere (phase B).

The spool plates, as you understand, must be tightly fitted to each other, otherwise steam will penetrate into the gap and the engine efficiency will noticeably decrease. Therefore, a spring is installed on the axis 7, which presses the plate 4 to the plate 8. In addition to the main function, this unit also serves as a safety valve. When the pressure in the boiler rises for any reason, the spring will be compressed, the plates will disperse and the excess steam will come out. Therefore, the spring is tightened with a nut so that the motor shaft can make several revolutions by inertia. Check it out by turning it with your hand.

Steam enters the machine through a pipe 5. One end of it is connected to the inlet hole on the spool plate 4, the other is put on a hose 6 connected to the steam boiler. Any rubber hose that does not contain thread or wire reinforcement is suitable for our engine. But best of all from the gas line of the car.

The hose is not secured to the steam line. This is also a security measure. As the steam pressure increases, the hose will break off the tube and the pressure in the boiler will instantly drop.

The main working body of the machine is cylinder 1. From above it is sealed with a tin washer 2, from below it is closed by a piston 13.

A piece of a knitting needle with a washer at the end is soldered into the piston. Through its hole passes the finger of the crank 14, soldered to the shaft 10 of the propeller, also made of a spoke. A flywheel 9 is installed on the shaft. The shaft of the steam engine rotates in a sliding bearing 12, which is soldered into the frame.

Use a 12-16 mm brass tube for the cylinder. The inner surface should be carefully polished. It is advisable to do this on a lathe with a rod with a gauze swab, rubbed with GOI paste or any other for polishing metals. As a result of processing, the diameter of the tube at the ends may be larger than in the middle. Therefore, only the middle part is used for the cylinder, thus increasing the length of the blank.

Solder the tin cover to the finished cylinder, rinse the assembled part with kerosene and get down to the piston. It consists of a piston itself, a rod and a washer.

It is desirable to make the piston from bronze or cast iron. Turn the workpiece on a lathe to such a diameter that it fits tightly into the cylinder. Try it on without removing it from the chuck and then drill a hole for the stem. Now cut the workpiece to the desired length and solder the stem into it. Solder the washer to the stem.

If the diameter of the piston turns out to be larger than necessary, it is ground with a file with a fine notch and sandpaper, and then polished. This is done on a lathe using a flannel strip and polishing paste.

It is desirable to cut the spool plates from brass 2-3 mm thick. For a more snug fit to the cylinder, make a notch in the spool plate 8. And then drill a hole for the axis 7 - a screw with a diameter of 3 mm with a countersunk head (the figure shows the marking of the plate).

On spool plate 4, use a compass and a core to mark the locations for the inlet and outlet. Drill them and start sanding both plates with sandpaper. Then they are also polished.

The spool plate 8 must be soldered to the cylinder. First insert the axle into it, tie the plate to the cylinder with a thin wire, grease the soldering points with flux, cover them with pieces of solder and heat them on a gas burner. The solder will spread over the flux-coated surface and grip the parts. If the cylinder cover is unsoldered during heating, it does not matter - it is easy to solder it again.

Holes for steam must be drilled in the cylinder. Steam distribution hole 3 in plate B can serve as a conductor for them.

The assembled unit is mounted on a frame 11, bent from sheet metal. When making it, try to accurately maintain the distance between the axis 7 and the axis of the bearing 12.

To the finished bed, solder the spool plate 4, the tube 5 of the steam line 6, the bearing 12. The hole for the shaft 10 is drilled in place, and the distance between the parts of the bed is selected depending on the dimensions of the flywheel 9.

A flywheel can be any steel or bronze part, the dimensions of which are not less than those indicated in our figure. Bearing 12 is best machined from bronze.

Now let's talk about the manufacture of a steam boiler (Fig. III).

Bend the shell 1 (side surface) of the boiler out of sheet metal. Solder two slightly concave tin bottoms into its end parts 2. The shell is made as follows. Pull a strip of tin from a can 80 mm wide and about 200 mm long several times around a thick rod - the workpiece will take the shape of a regular ring. Cut a strip of the desired length from it and solder a cylinder with a diameter of 40 mm. The bottoms 2 are made in the shape of an already welded boiler. An ordinary flat bottom will not be able to withstand steam pressure. Therefore, give the workpiece a spherical shape. This is done by light blows of a hammer with a convex striker on a thick wooden plate (you can also use soft metal, for example, lead).

Solder the bottoms with the convex side inward, bend the edges and solder.

A special fitting is provided on the boiler for filling water. It consists of a MZ-M4 nut with a length of 10-12 mm (part 3) and a corresponding screw that acts as a plug. The boiler is filled with a medical syringe.

The steam formed in the boiler leaves through hole 4 (its diameter is 6 mm). Together with the steam, water droplets usually fly out, which interferes with the operation of the steam engine. Therefore, above the outlet, you need to install a special cap-trap 5, and solder the pipe 6 of the steam line to it. Then the droplets flying out of the boiler will settle on the walls of the bell, and only dry steam will get into the branch pipe.

Check the finished boiler for leaks. Lubricate all sealed seams with soapy foam and blow into the boiler through the steam line. In those places where soap bubbles appear, re-soldering is required.

Solder legs 7 to the boiler and bend the dry fuel burner out of the tin.

The steam engine is ready.

We have already said that, if handled correctly, our steam engine is completely safe. However, testing precautions are not superfluous. First of all, remember that the steam generated in the boiler must constantly escape from it: be spent on the operation of the piston, and then flow out through the hole in the spool plate. If this does not happen, you must immediately extinguish the fire, wait until the boiler has completely cooled down, find and eliminate the malfunction. This safety rule must be strictly observed. And we advise you to invite someone from the knowledgeable adults before you start testing.

Connect the steam engine to the boiler with a hose. Do not fasten the ends of the hose to the nozzles. To prevent the burner flame from ruining the hose, wrap it in foil. Pour 30-40 ml of boiled water into a steam boiler and light the burner with two (no more) tablets of dry fuel. Slowly start turning the shaft of the steam engine. After about 30 - 40 seconds, the water in the boiler will make noise, and hot water will drip from the exhaust outlet of the machine. Then steam will come out of the slot of the spool device.

A properly made steam engine starts working in 1-2 minutes. Make sure that the water in the boiler does not boil away, otherwise it will dissolve.

Attach a tried and tested steam engine to the model. It can be ready-made, purchased or made with your own hands from tin or polystyrene.

Drawings by M. SIMAKOV

I will duplicate from the forum:
the car is installed there on a boat, which is not necessary for us

BOAT WITH STEAM MACHINE

Manufacturing of the case
The hull of our boat is cut from dry, soft and light wood: linden, aspen, alder; birch is harder and more difficult to handle. You can also take spruce or pine, but they prick easily, which complicates the work.
After choosing a log of suitable thickness, trim it with an ax and saw off a piece of the required size. The manufacturing sequence of the case is shown in the figures (see table 33, left, top).
Cut the deck out of a dry board. From above, make the deck slightly convex, like in real ships, so that water that gets on it drains overboard. Use a knife to cut shallow grooves into the deck to give the deck a plank look.

Boiler construction
Having cut out a piece of tin 80x155 mm in size, bend the edges about 10 mm wide in opposite directions. Bending the sheet metal into a ring, join the folded edges into a seam and solder it (see, table, middle, right). Bend the workpiece to form an oval, cut two oval bottoms along it and solder them.
Punch two holes in the top of the boiler: one for the water-filling plug, the other for the passage of steam into the steam chamber. Sukhoparnik - a small round tin made of tin. A small tubule welded from tin comes out of the steam chamber, at the end of which another, rubber tube is pulled, through which the steam goes to the cylinder of the steam engine.
The firebox is only suitable for an alcohol burner. The bottom of the firebox has a tin bottom with curved edges. The figure shows a firebox pattern. Dotted lines show fold lines. You cannot solder the firebox; its side walls are held together by two or three small rivets. The lower edges of the walls are folded outward and enclosed by the edges of the tin bottom.
The burner has two wicks made of cotton wool and a long funnel-shaped tube welded from tin. Through this tube, alcohol can be poured into the burner without removing the boiler with the firebox from the boat or the burner from the firebox. If the boiler is connected to the cylinder of the steam engine with a rubber pipe, the firebox with the boiler can be easily removed from the boat.
If there is no alcohol, you can make a firebox that will work on fine charcoal pre-fired. Coal is poured into a tin box with a lattice bottom. The box with coal is installed in the firebox. To do this, the boiler will have to be made removable and fixed over the firebox with wire clamps.

Machine making
The model boat is equipped with a steam engine with an oscillating cylinder. This is a simple yet well-functioning model. How it works can be seen in table 34, right, above.
The first position indicates the moment of steam inlet when the cylinder bore is aligned with the steam inlet. In this position, steam enters the cylinder, presses on the piston and pushes it down. The steam pressure on the piston is transmitted through the connecting rod and crank to the propeller shaft. During the movement of the piston, the cylinder rotates.
When the piston does not reach the bottom a little, the cylinder will be standing straight, and the steam injection will stop: the hole in the cylinder no longer coincides with the inlet hole. But the rotation of the shaft continues, already due to the inertia of the flywheel. The cylinder turns more and more, and when the piston starts to rise up, the cylinder bore will line up with the other, the outlet. The exhaust steam in the cylinder is pushed out through the outlet.
When the piston rises to its highest position, the cylinder will become straight again and the outlet will close. At the beginning of the reverse movement of the piston, when it already begins to lower, the hole in the cylinder will again coincide with the steam inlet, steam will again rush into the cylinder, the piston will receive a new push, and everything will be repeated from the beginning.
Cut the cylinder from a brass, copper or steel tube with a hole diameter of 7-8 mm or from an empty cartridge case of the corresponding diameter. The tube should have smooth inner walls.
Cut the connecting rod from a brass or iron plate 1.5-2 mm thick, fish out the end without a hole.
Cast the plunger out of the lead directly in the cylinder. The casting method is exactly the same as for the steam engine described earlier. When the casting lead has melted, grasp the connecting rod clamped with pliers with one hand and pour the lead into the cylinder with the other hand. Immediately immerse the tinned end of the connecting rod in the lead that has not yet hardened to the depth marked in advance. It will be firmly soldered into the piston. Make sure that the connecting rod is plunged exactly plumb and in the center of the piston. When the casting has cooled, push the piston and connecting rod out of the cylinder and carefully clean.
Cut the cylinder cover out of brass or iron 0.5-1 mm thick.
The steam distribution device of a steam engine with an oscillating cylinder consists of two plates: a cylinder steam distribution plate A, which is soldered to the cylinder, and a steam distribution plate B, which is soldered to a rack (frame). They are best made from brass or copper, and only as a last resort from iron (see table, left, top).
The plates should fit snugly against each other. To do this, they dress up. It is done like this. Take out a so-called test tile or a small mirror. Cover its surface with a very thin and even layer of black oil paint or soot, wiped off with vegetable oil. The paint is rubbed over the mirror with your fingers. Place the plate to be squeezed on a painted mirror surface, press it with your fingers and move it from side to side along the mirror for a while. Then remove the plate and scrape off all the protruding spots covered with paint special tool - a scraper. The scraper can be made from an old triangular file by sharpening its edges as shown in the figure. If the metal from which the steam distribution plates are made is soft (brass, copper), the scraper can be replaced with a pocket knife.
When all the protruding areas of the plate covered with paint have been removed, wipe off the rest of the paint and put the plate back on the test surface. The paint will now cover the larger surface of the record. Very well. Continue scraping until the entire surface of the plate becomes covered with small frequent specks of paint. After fixing the steam distributor plates, solder the screw inserted into the hole drilled in the plate to the cylinder plate A. Solder the screw plate to the cylinder. Then solder the cylinder cover as well. Solder the other plate to the machine frame.
Saw the frame out of a brass or iron plate 2-3 mm thick and fix it to the bottom of the boat with two screws.
Make the propeller shaft from steel wire 3-4 mm thick or from the axis of the "constructor" set. The shaft rotates in a tube soldered from tin, Brass or copper washers are soldered to its ends with holes exactly along the shaft, Pour oil into the tube so that water cannot enter the boat even when top end the tube will be located below the water level. The propeller shaft tube is fixed in the boat hull with a soldered obliquely circular plate. Fill all gaps around the tube and the mounting plate with molten resin (pitch) or cover with putty.
The crank is made from a small piece of iron and a wire cut and brazed to the end of the shaft.
Pick up the flywheel ready-made or cast from zinc or lead, as for the valve steam engine described earlier. The table in the circle shows the method of casting in a tin can, and in the rectangle - in a clay mold.
The propeller is cut from thin brass or iron and soldered to the end of the shaft. Bend the blades at an angle of no more than 45 ° to the screw axis. With a greater inclination, they will not screw into the water, but only scatter it around.

Assembly
When you have made a cylinder with a piston and a connecting rod, a machine frame, a crank and a propeller shaft with a flywheel, you can start marking, and then drilling the inlet and outlet holes of the steam distributor plate of the frame,
For marking, you must first drill a hole in the cylinder plate with a 1.5 mm drill. This hole, drilled in the center of the top of the plate, should enter the cylinder as close as possible to the cylinder head (see table 35). Insert a piece of pencil lead into the drilled hole so that it protrudes 0.5 mm from the hole.
Put the cylinder together with the piston and connecting rod in place. On the end of the screw soldered into the cylinder plate, put on a spring and screw on the nut. The cylinder with graphite inserted into the hole will press against the frame plate. If you now rotate the crank, as shown in the table above, the graphite will draw a small arc on the plate, at the ends of which you need to drill a hole. These will be the inlet (left) and outlet (right) ports. Make the inlet slightly smaller than the outlet. If the inlet is drilled with a 1.5mm drill, the outlet can be drilled with a 2mm drill. At the end of the line, remove the cylinder and take out the lead. Carefully scrape off any burrs left after drilling around the edges of the hole.
If you don't have a small drill and drill at hand, then, with some patience, the holes can be drilled with a drill made from a thick needle. Break off the eye of the needle and hammer it halfway into the wooden handle. Grind the protruding end of the eyelet on a hard block, as shown in the circle on the table. Rotating the handle with the needle by hand in one direction or the other, you can slowly drill holes. This is especially easy when the plates are made of brass or copper.
The steering wheel is made of sheet metal, thick wire and iron 1 mm thick (see table, right, below). To pour water into the boiler and alcohol into the burner, a small funnel must be soldered.
To prevent the model from falling to one side on land, it is installed on a stand.

Testing and starting the machine
After the model is finished, you can start testing the steam engine. Pour oxen 3/4 of the way into the cauldron. Insert the wicks into the burner and pour alcohol. Lubricate bearings and friction parts of the machine with liquid machine oil. Wipe the cylinder with a clean cloth or paper and lubricate as well. If the steam engine is built accurately, the surfaces of the plates are well ground in, the steam inlet and outlet holes are correctly marked and drilled, there are no distortions and the machine rotates easily by the screw, it should go immediately.
Observe the following precautions when starting the machine:
1. Do not unscrew the water filler plug when there is steam in the boiler.
2. Do not make a tight spring and do not tighten it too much with a nut, as this, firstly, increases the friction between the plates and, secondly, there is a risk of the boiler explosion. It must be remembered that if the steam pressure in the boiler is too high, the cylinder plate with a correctly selected spring is like a safety valve: it moves away from the frame plate, the excess steam comes out, and due to this, the pressure in the boiler is kept normal all the time.
3. Do not let the steam machine stand for a long time if the water in the boiler is boiling. The resulting steam must be consumed at all times.
4. Do not let all the water in the boiler boil away. If this happens, the boiler will unsolder.
5. Do not fasten the ends of the rubber tube too tightly, which can also be a good protection against excessive pressure build-up in the boiler. But keep in mind that the thin rubber tube will blow up with steam pressure. Take a strong ebonite tube, in which electrical wires are sometimes laid, or wrap an ordinary rubber tube with insulating tape,
6. To protect the boiler from rusting, fill it with boiled water. To make the water in the boiler boil faster, the easiest way is to pour hot water.

The same thing but in pdf:

Introduction 3
Chapter 1. Single disc steam turbine 5
Chapter 2. Single-cylinder steam engine with steam distribution through the crank shaft 23
Chapter 3. Single-cylinder oscillating cylinder steam engine 35
Chapter 4. Calculation of a steam engine and a steam boiler 50

The Voluntary Society for Assistance to the Army, Aviation and Navy (Dosaaf) widely develops maritime modeling in its organizations. Thousands of young men and women - members of Dosaaf - are building self-propelled, sailing and tabletop models of ships and vessels with great interest. To make modeling on a mass scale, to identify the most interesting designs, the committees of the Society hold competitions, reviews, exhibitions every year. In order to equalize the possibilities of the competitors, the Unified All-Union Classification of Models was developed and approved. Most models according to the Classification are self-propelled, that is, one that is equipped with various engines.
It is especially interesting to build self-propelled marine models with steam engines. Making such a model, the model constructor not only acquires skills, but also learns the basics of technology.
Steam engines are widely used in our national economy. They are installed on steamships, steam locomotives, steam cars, and set in motion generators in power plants.
While building miniature steam engines, a young designer must remember that the steam engine is a Russian invention. It was designed and built in 1765 in Barnaul, Altai, by our compatriot - the outstanding inventor Ivan Ivanovich Polzunov. The Russian inventor had to endure many difficulties in the struggle for his idea: "to facilitate the work for us to come." Ivan Ivanovich Polzunov himself drew, calculated his own steam engine, he himself had to build it. However, the inventor was never sent to start and test his car. As a result of excessive and unbearable work, the already poor health of II Polzunov was greatly undermined, and in 1766 the great Russian inventor died. His work was continued by his students and followers.
In 1766, II Polzunov's machine was put into operation and worked, driving the blowers of 12 copper-smelting furnaces, for several years.
Now it is even difficult to imagine many branches of industry and transport without a steam engine.
The steam engine is also widely used in modeling.

Chapter 1
SINGLE DISC STEAM TURBINE TURBINE DESIGN
The simplest steam engine is a single-disk steam turbine.
The main elements of the installation are a steam boiler and a steam turbine (Fig. 1).
A steam boiler is a closed vessel filled with approximately two-thirds of its volume with water. A firebox is placed under the boiler.
The principle of operation of the installation is as follows. The water in the boiler is heated by the flame and converted into steam. As steam is generated, its amount increases and the pressure in the boiler increases. Steam under pressure begins to flow into the steam line and then into the turbine nozzle.
The steam turbine nozzle is a cone with a very small inlet opening. Steam, entering through a small hole into the part of the nozzle with a larger diameter, expands and its pressure drops, while its speed increases greatly. When leaving the nozzle, the steam has almost no pressure, but it leaves it at a high speed.
Thus, the meaning of the nozzle becomes completely clear - to convert the energy of steam pressure into energy of speed.
When leaving the nozzle, the steam meets the blades of the steam turbine on the way and, hitting the latter, rotates the disk of the steam turbine. The blades of the steam turbine are made curved to better utilize the energy of the discharged steam.
A single-disk steam turbine (Fig. 2) consists of a body (parts No. 1,2, 13), in which a disk with blades (part No. 9) rotates on a shaft (part No. 7). The axle of the disk of the steam turbine is connected through a reduction gear
Figure: 1. Diagram of a thermal plant with a steam turbine
Figure: 2. Single-disk steam turbine: 1 - steam turbine housing ring; 2 - housing cover; 3 - the leading tribune; 4 - nut; 5 - limiting sleeve; 6 - driving gear wheel; 7 - disk shaft; 8 - nozzle; 9 - steam turbine disk; 10 - screw; 11 - bracket for the axis of the drive gear; 12 - disk shaft axis; 13 - housing cover; 14 - bracket for fastening the steam turbine; 15 - steam outlet pipes; 16 - leash (det. No. 3, 6) with a leash of the steam turbine (det. No. 16). Such a gear train is necessary to reduce the speed and increase the torque on the propeller shaft. Steam enters the turbine through a nozzle (item no. 8), fixed in the housing cover (item no. 13), and exits through outlet pipes (item no. 15), fixed in the second cover of the steam turbine (item no. 2).

PRODUCTION OF PARTS
The construction of a steam turbine should begin with the manufacture of the most complex parts. One of these parts in our steam turbine is the disc. Therefore, we will begin the construction with its manufacture.
The disk of a steam turbine (Fig. 3, det. No. 9) is made of sheet brass with a thickness of 0.4 - 0 6 mm.
It is most convenient to make a disc in this sequence. First, the workpiece is marked out according to the drawing, then the central hole is drilled, as well as the holes at the base of the blades, and the disc is cut with scissors along the contour.
Having cut out the workpiece, proceed to bending the blades. To do this, a special device, a punch, is made from a steel bar with a cross section of 6X15 mm and a length of 50X80 mm (Fig. 4). The disc is placed on the end of a wooden block and, placing the punch on a spatula, hit it with a hammer. In this case, the spatula, pressing into the end of the tree, will take the shape of a punch (Fig. 5). Having bent the spatulas in shape, unfold them at an angle of 15 ° to the plane of the disc and file.
Figure: 5. Bending of the shoulder blades with a punch
Figure: 6. Turbine housing ring
The blades of the steam turbine disc must have sharp edges and must be well polished. This significantly increases the power of the steam turbine.
Having made the disk, you should proceed to the manufacture of the case. The steam turbine housing consists of three parts: two covers and a ring. The ring should be made first.
The ring of the steam turbine body (Fig. No. 6, item No. 1) is made of a strip of brass with a thickness of 0.4 - 0.6 mm, a width of 20 mph and a length of 160 mm. To do this, take an iron or wooden blank with a diameter of 50 mm and bend the workpiece around it. The ends of the workpiece are soldered and cleaned with a file and sandpaper.
Bend around the workpiece evenly and avoid kinks.
Figure: 7. Housing cover
The cover of the steam turbine body (Fig. 7, item No. 2) is made of sheet brass 0.4 - 0.5 mm. First, a round billet with a diameter of 65 mm is cut out of the sheet and its edges are rolled on a lathe. To do this, insert a round blank (steel or brass) with a diameter of 51 - 55 mm into the chuck of a lathe and grind it for a length of 10 - 15 mm to a diameter of 50 mm (the inner diameter of the body ring), then it is trimmed. A blank for the lid is applied to the end of the mandrel so that its edges protrude equally, and pressed through the ring with a rotating center (Fig. 8). Pressing the workpiece, turn on the machine and grind it to a diameter of 58 - 60 mm. Then they take a steel bar with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm and saw off its end so that it has a rounded shape. After that, it is clamped into the machine tool holder with the sawn end to the workpiece. Having lubricated the round end of the bar with oil, bring it to the edge of the workpiece and, turning on the machine, bend the edges of the workpiece with it, moving the tool holder to the chuck of the lathe. If at the same time the edges of the workpiece are loosely around the mandrel, then the bar should be tightened more and repeat the operation from the beginning (Fig. 9).
After this operation, markings are made, holes are drilled according to the drawing and the cover is cleaned.
Manufacturing of the second cover (Fig. 10, item No. 13) is completely analogous to the first one and therefore does not require a special description.
The steam turbine nozzle (Fig. 10, item no. 8) is a tube, into one end of which a lead plug with a tapered hole is inserted.
The end of the tube on the side of the plug is cut at an angle of 30 °. This cut is necessary in order for the end of the nozzle to come as close as possible to the blades of the steam turbine.
It is most convenient to make a nozzle from a brass or copper tube 40 mm long and 3 mm in diameter. A lead plug is inserted into one end of the tube to a depth of 4–6 mm. Before inserting the plug, the inner surface of the tube to a depth of 6 - 8 mm is sanded and lubricated with a brazing liquid. After that, you need to make a tapered hole in the plug. It is best to make a hole in the nozzle using a special tool (fig. 11).
A steel nail 30 - 40 mm long and 2 - 2.5 mm in diameter is sharpened at an angle of 5 - 7 ° and driven into the board. The protruding end of the nail is rubbed with graphite (you can use a pencil lead) and wrap it with asbestos cut. From above, sheet asbestos is applied to its tip and pressed with a wooden block so that the tip of the nail, punctures the sheet asbestos, protrudes 0.3-0.5 mm over it.
A tube with a cork is placed on the protruding end of the tip so that the tip is in the center of the cork. After that, the lower end of the tube with the stopper is heated. When heated, the lead plug will melt and the tube will go down from slight pressure, squeezing the rope asbestos, the tip of the wire will enter the molten lead plug.
Having lowered the tube by 7 - 8 mm, it is cooled and then removed from the nail. Since the end of the point was rubbed with graphite, the lead plug is freely removed from the nail, and the hardened lead forms a tapered hole in the shape of the point.
The smallest hole diameter in the plug should be 0.25 - 0.3 mm; you can measure it with a calibrated wire. If the hole of the nozzle is smaller, then it can be expanded by placing the tube again on the tip and hitting it with a slightly small hammer. After that, the end of the nozzle from the side of the plug is cut into a cone according to the drawing and cleaned. If, during filing, the nozzle hole becomes clogged with sawdust, then it should be cleaned with the same nail.
After the nozzle is made, you can proceed to the manufacture of the rest, simpler parts of the steam turbine.
The bracket for fastening the steam turbine (Fig. 10, item No. 14) and the leash (item No. 16) are made of brass with a thickness of 0.5 - 1 mph. Their manufacture is not difficult and is clear from the drawing.
The shaft of the steam turbine disk (Fig. 10, item no. 7) is made of brass or steel wire with a diameter of 4.5 - 5 mm and a length of 40 - 50 mm. The workpiece is inserted into the machine, faceted, and then a hole with a diameter of 1.5 mm is drilled in it to a depth of 25 mm. Then, pressing it with the center of the tailstock, grind it to a diameter of 4 mm by a length of 25 mm and cut off a sleeve 20 mm long from the workpiece, which is cleaned with a file and sandpaper.
The shaft axis of the steam turbine disk (Fig. 10, item no. 12) is made of silver or piano wire with a diameter of 1.6 mm. To do this, cut off a piece of wire 8 mm long and clean its ends. After that, the workpiece is inserted into the lathe so that it protrudes by 5 - 6 mm, and, turning on the machine, the protruding end of the axle is filed with a small (personal or velvet) file until the axle fits tightly into the hole of the steam turbine shaft ...
The restricting sleeve (fig. 10, item no. 5) is made of brass or ornamental steel. Making it is simple and clear from the drawing.
A screw with a nut (Fig. 10, det. No. 10) is selected ready-made from the "constructor". If the screw does not fit in length, it can be cut off with a hacksaw or filed down.
The bracket for the drive gear axle (fig. 12, item no. 11) is made of sheet brass 1 mm thick. A strip of 40 mm long and 10 mm wide is cut out of a sheet of brass, folded according to the drawing, holes are drilled, filed down with a file and sanded.
Figure: 12. Bracket for drive gear axle
The leading tribe (Fig. 2, det. No. 3) is selected ready-made from a clock mechanism or a clock mechanism of the "designer". The axis of the tribot is bite off on one side to a length of 1 - 1.5 mm, and on the other - up to 7 - 8 mm.
In our steam turbine, a tri-pin with six pins is taken from the construction mechanism, but you can use a tri-pin with eight pins.
The drive gear wheel (Fig. 2, det. No. 6) is selected ready-made from the "designer" clock mechanism or the mechanism of an old alarm clock.
Our sample has a forty-tooth cogwheel taken from the "designer" clockwork. However, you can use a gear wheel with a different number of teeth, but it must be borne in mind that the location of the holes on the housing cover (Fig. 2, item no. 2) and in the arm of the leash axis must correspond to the distance of the pinion axles from the disk shaft and the gear wheel ...
In our design, the holes in the covers and in the bracket are drilled to accommodate a forty-tooth gear and a six-stud pin.

TURBINE ASSEMBLY
Having made all the parts of the steam turbine, you can start assembling it.
The assembly of the turbine should be started by soldering the shaft (part no. 7) into the disk of the steam turbine (part no. 9). It is most convenient to solder the shaft in the centers of the lathe. To do this, inserting the shaft into the disk, clamp it in the centers of the lathe so that it can turn easily. Then "setting the disk of the steam turbine at an equal distance from the ends of the shaft, eliminate the beating of the disk by rotating it in the centers, and then solder the disk to the shaft of the steam turbine. Having well soldered the joint between the shaft and the disc, the disc is checked again by rotating it in the centers. If at the same time there is even a slight beating, it should be eliminated by bending the disc, tapping on it with a wooden hammer. Having eliminated the beating, the disk with the shaft is removed from the centers, the adhesion site is cleaned with a sandpaper and washed with kerosene.
An axle (part no. 12) is pressed into the end of the shaft from the side of the nozzle (Fig. 2). In the other end of the shaft insert the axis of the driving pin (det. No. 3). If the latter is not included, then it should be filed with a small file. The pin of the drive pin should fit into the shaft bore from light hammer blows (tight fit). In the event that the pinion pin enters the shaft hole too easily, it should be slightly riveted. When riveting, care must be taken to ensure that the axle of the pinion is not bent. A tighter fit of the axle in the shaft bore can be achieved by also placing several cores on the surface of the stem axle.
Having adjusted the pinion axis to the shaft hole, they begin to strengthen the nozzle in the housing cover.
When installing, it is necessary to strive to ensure that the end of the nozzle fits as close as possible to the blades of the steam turbine disk. To find the correct nozzle position, you need to assemble the body. To do this, taking the housing cover and inserting the axis of the drive pin (item no. 3) into the central hole on the outside of the cover, push the disk shaft (item no. 12) onto it, then put on both body covers (item no. 2 and . No. 13) on the body ring (part No. 1).
When assembling the steam turbine casing, make sure that the shaft axis (part no. 12) falls into the hole in the cover (part no. 13).
After assembling the body with the disc, insert the nozzle into the cover (part No. 13) at an angle of 20 ° until it stops in the spatula. In this case, the disk of the steam turbine is rotated behind the drive rod. If the disc blades touch the end of the nozzle, the nozzle is pushed back 0.3-0.5 mm and soldered. After soldering the nozzle, again check if the end of the nozzle does not touch the blades of the disc. If the nozzle touches the spatulas, then it should be unsoldered, moved a little, and then re-soldered.
Next install the steam pipes (part no. 15) and a bracket for attaching (part no. 14) the steam turbine to the model.
After the parts are soldered on the turbine casing, an underwater gear wheel is installed (part No. 6).
To install the gear wheel, the cover (part no. 2) must be removed from the body and from the inside against the screw hole, solder the nut. Then the cover is put back on the body and, inserting the drive wheel axle into the cover hole, screw the bracket (part no. 11). When screwing on the bracket, make sure that the axle of the drive wheel is correctly positioned and the gearing of the pinion and the wheel is normal. A leash (det. No. 16) is soldered to the end of the drive wheel axle protruding above the bracket, after which the turbine is finally sanded, washed in kerosene, dried and oiled.
It is not recommended to try the operation of the turbine by blowing air into the nozzle with your mouth, since a properly made turbine will not work from this.

CONSTRUCTION OF A STEAM BOILER FOR A TURBINE
The simplest cylindrical boiler for a single-disk steam turbine consists of the following main elements: a cylinder closed on both sides by covers, on the upper part of which a safety valve and a steam line are fixed; furnaces and spirit lamps (Fig. 13). A steam boiler is made of tinplate or brass with a thickness of 0.25 - 0.3 mm. First, the cylinder covers are made (Fig. 14, det. No. 6,7). They should be made in the same way that we made the steam turbine covers.
Then a cylinder is made of tin (Fig. 14, det. No. 8). To do this, cut out a workpiece, then mark and cut out holes for the steam line, safety valve and chimney. After that, they go around the workpiece on a round blank, make a seam, put on the covers and solder them. When soldering, you should especially ensure that the soldering points warm up well and that the tin flows into the joints. Then the chimney is soldered into the boiler; its edge should not protrude more than 2 mm beyond the bottom wall of the cylinder.
After the boiler is ready, check it for leaks. This is done as follows: water is poured into the boiler and, clamping the hole for the steam line, air is blown into the hole for the safety valve; if at the same time it turns out that the boiler is leaking water, then the leaks should be well soldered again.
After making sure that the boiler does not leak, proceed to the manufacture of the furnace (Fig. 14, det. Nos. 9, 10). Having made a firebox, into it
insert the boiler by lowering it into the furnace 5-10 mm below the diameter. After the boiler and the firebox have been soldered, install and solder the steam line (part no. 1), after passing it through the walls of the firebox, as shown in fig. 13. On the end of the steam line put on a rubber stopper with a hole (part No. 4). Making an alcohol lamp is not difficult and is clear from the drawing (Fig. 15).
The most important unit of the steam boiler is the safety valve (Fig. 16), which is arranged as follows. A screw (item 1) is inserted into the bushing (part no. 2). A nut (part No. 7) is screwed at its end, which presses the spring (part No. 5) through a washer (part No. 6). Thus, the head of the screw is pressed against the plane of the sleeve by the force of the spring pressure.
The bushing is screwed into a nut (part no. 4), which is soldered to the upper wall of the boiler on the hole for the safety valve. A lead washer (p / n 3) is placed between the sleeve and the nut to seal.
Figure: 14. Drawings of the steam boiler parts: detail M 1 - steam line; detail М 4 - rubber stopper for connecting the steam line with the turbine nozzle; detail М 5 - chimney; parts MM 6 and 7 - cylinder covers; detail М 8 - boiler cylinder; detail M 9 - firebox; detail N ° 10 - furnace bottom
The safety valve serves to prevent the steam boiler from bursting due to steam pressure. When the steam pressure in the boiler rises to a critical one (the pressure, when increasing, the boiler may burst), the safety valve opens, part of the steam leaves the boiler and the pressure drops. If the valve is made incorrectly, then it may not open at critical pressure and the boiler will burst. Therefore, it is very important to be especially careful in the manufacture of safety valve parts, keeping exactly the dimensions indicated in the drawings.
The valve screw (part No. 1) and the sleeve (part No. 2) are made of brass to prevent rusting and damage to the valve.
Parts Nos. 4, 6, 7 can be made from either brass or steel. The washer (det. No. 3) is made of lead. The valve spring (item No. 5) is wound from a piano wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm. When the coils of the spring are compressed until they come into contact with each other, the spring must provide a resistance of 0.6 kg. If the spring is weak, then it must be stretched or a new one made. It should be noted that a spring with a larger diameter is weaker than a spring with a smaller diameter made of the same wire.
Having made all the valve parts, grind the screw head to the sleeve. The screw is lapped to the sleeve as follows: insert the screw into the sleeve, after having lubricated the screw head with a mixture of oil and emery, and, inserting a screwdriver into the slot of the screw, rotate it, pressing it against the sleeve. Grind the screw to the sleeve until it is firmly certain that steam will not pass through the place where the screw head touches the sleeve when closing the valve.
After finishing lapping, the valve is assembled and adjusted. Valve adjustment consists in tightening the nut (part no. 7). When screwing on the nut, the force of the spring pressure increases, when unscrewing it decreases.
When adjusting the valve, the nut (part no. 7) should be installed in such a position that the screw head is pressed against the sleeve with a force of 0.5 kg.
The force of pressure of the screw head on the sleeve is very easy to determine using ordinary scales. In this case, they do the following: take the assembled valve by the sleeve (part No. 2) and put it on the weighing pan so that when the cup is lifted, the valve spring is compressed and the screw head moves away from the sleeve. Then, holding the valve by the sleeve strictly in a vertical position, the other pan is immersed until the valve spring begins to compress and the valve opens. The weight of the load will determine the force of the spring pressure.
Having adjusted the valve, solder the valve nut (item no. 4) and check the boiler for leaks again. After filling the boiler with water through the valve holes, screw the valve and, turning the boiler in different directions, blow air into the steam line by mouth. After making sure that the boiler does not leak, you can start testing the boiler.

STEAM BOILER TEST
A particularly important and crucial point in the simulation of steam plants is the test of a steam boiler.
The test must be carried out with extreme caution so that a ruptured boiler cannot cause an accident. The head of the circle or the physics teacher must be present at the test.
The test is carried out in the following order. Having filled the boiler to 2/3 of its volume with water, seal the outlet of the steam line and adjust the safety valve by turning the nut so that the pressure of the valve head on the sleeve is three times greater than in the operating position of the valve. If the valve spring is unable to exert this pressure, it should be replaced with a stronger spring during the test. Then, by screwing in the valve, the steam boiler is installed at the test site (in a separate room or in an open place, but in such a way that it is possible to move 15-20 m away from it) and, filling the spirit lamp with technical or denatured alcohol, having previously inserted it into the tubes alcohol lamp burners pieces of cotton wool, put it in the furnace of a steam boiler. After making sure that the burner flame has not extinguished, they move 15 - 20 m away from the test site and observe. After 10-15 minutes the water in the boiler will boil and the steam pressure will rise.
If the boiler is made correctly, then it will withstand a steam pressure three times higher than the working one. When the steam pressure in the boiler is three times the working pressure (9 atm), the safety valve will open and the pressure in the boiler will not increase further.
However, you should not approach the tested boiler before the valve closes and the spirit lamp goes out.
After testing the boiler with a threefold overload, the valve is unscrewed and adjusted again to the operating position, that is, to such a position at which the valve will open from the steam pressure in the boiler, three times less than the steam pressure in the boiler during the test. After adjusting the valve, the nut (part no. 7) is soldered, after which the boiler can be installed for operation on the model.

STEAM UNIT OPERATION
It is better to install the steam boiler completely freely, without fixing it on the model, as this will greatly simplify the operation and make it possible to fill the boiler with water outside the model.
It is very convenient to connect the steam line of the steam boiler to the steam turbine nozzle with a rubber plug, in which a hole of 2.5 - 3 mm is pre-drilled.
The boiler should be filled with water before each start of the model. In no case should the model be started if the boiler is less than half filled with water.
Starting the model with a small amount of water in the boiler may lead to the boiler dissolving.
At the end of starting the model, the water must be poured out of the boiler.
After starting the turbine axles should be lubricated with machine oil - this will significantly increase the service life of the turbine. When operating at full power, the shaft of the steam turbine should rotate at 7,000 - 10,000 rpm.
A steam turbine built according to our drawings can be recommended for installation on models up to 1 m in size and up to 1 kg displacement.

Chapter 2
SINGLE-CYLINDER STEAM MACHINE WITH STEAM DISTRIBUTION THROUGH THE CRANK SHAFT

DEVICE AND PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION
In fig. 17 and 18 show a general view of a single-cylinder steam engine with steam distribution through the crank shaft. It consists of the following main parts: a bed, a cylinder with a piston, a flywheel and a bearing in which the shaft rotates.
The steam engine has the following structure. Children on the bed. No. 15), in its middle part, a bearing (det. No. 3) is reinforced, in which there are three holes: one on top and two on the sides - one against the other. The upper hole in the bearing is connected by a steam line (item no. 2) to the cylinder of the steam engine (item no. 12), which is fixed in the upper part of the frame with two screws (item no. 1). Two tubes (item no. 4) are soldered to the side holes: one is connected to the boiler, the other to the atmosphere.
The crank shaft rotates in the bearing (part No. 9), at one end of which a flywheel is tightly fitted (part No. 7), and on the other end a coupling is fixed (part No. 5). On the crank shaft, opposite the upper hole in the bearing, there is an annular groove, from which there is a small cut to the side holes. On the opposite side of the crank shaft, a finger (part no. 8) is pressed into the flywheel, displaced relative to the crank shaft and forming a crank with the flywheel.
A piston (item no. 13) moves in the cylinder of a steam engine, movably connected by a connecting rod (item no. 10) with a pin.
The single-cylinder steam engine works as follows. Steam enters the bearing through the inlet pipe connected to the boiler. Getting on the crank shaft, steam enters the cylinder along the cut. In the cylinder, steam presses on the piston, moving it. The piston, moving in the cylinder, rotates the flywheel of the steam engine through the connecting rod.
When the flywheel rotates, the cut located on the crank axis moves, and at the moment when the piston approaches the bottom dead center (extreme lower position of the piston), the shaft body closes the hole, the boiler is automatically disconnected from the machine and steam does not enter the bearing.
Due to the fact that the piston has imparted inertia to the flywheel, the crank continues to rotate, while moving the piston towards top dead center (the uppermost position of the flywheel).
At the moment when the piston is at the bottom dead center or begins to move away from it, the cut on the crank axis begins to overlap the second side hole in the crank shaft bearing.
When the piston moves to the top dead center, the exhaust steam is pushed out of the cylinder, passes through the steam line, enters the groove on the crank shaft and, passing along the cut, is thrown out through the second side hole in the crank shaft bearing.
At the moment when the piston is at top dead center, the cut on the crank shaft begins to align with the outlet side hole in the crank shaft bearing, fresh working steam from the boiler enters the cylinder again, pushes the piston to bottom dead center, and the process is repeated from the beginning.
Figure: 18. Drawing of a single-cylinder steam engine in three projections: 1 - cylinder fastening screws; 2 - steam line; 3 - bearing; 4 - inlet and outlet pipes; 5 - clutch; 6 - stopper; 7 - flywheel; 8 - crank pin; 9 - crank shaft; 10 - connecting rod; 11 - finger; 12 - cylinder; 13 - piston; 14 - ring; 15 - bed
Steam from the boiler can be supplied to any of the side holes in the crank shaft bearing, but this will influence the direction of rotation of the steam engine shaft.
The model single cylinder steam engine can only be built with a lathe. For convenience, the description of the manufacture of parts of the steam engine is given in the order of their numbering on the drawing of the general view of the steam engine (Fig. 17).
The screws for fastening the cylinder (fig. 19, item no. 1) are made of semi-finished steel. For this song, you can use the material of old screws. It is not recommended to make screws from rivets, since this metal is very viscous and the thread on the screws made of rivets quickly works.
It is best to pick up the screws ready-made, and if they do not fit in length, they should be cut off.
The steam line (Fig. 19, item No. 2) is most conveniently made of a brass or copper tube with a diameter of 4 mm. A piece of tube 100-150 cm long is bent according to the drawing, then the ends are cut off and cleaned. If there is no finished tube of suitable dimensions, it can be soldered from tin or thin brass.
The bearing (part no. 3) is made of a bronze rod with a diameter of 17 mm and a length of 50 - 70 mm. The workpiece is clamped into the lathe chuck, leaving the end 40 - 45 mm, and a hole with a diameter of 6.8 mm is drilled. The drilled hole is expanded to a diameter of 7 mm. Then the workpiece is processed along the outer diameter, after which the bearing is cut off, faceted, marked and drilled on the side holes for steam passage.
The inlet and outlet pipes (part No. 4) are best made from a finished tube with a diameter of 4 mm. If there is no finished tube, it can be turned on a lathe or soldered from tin.
The coupling (part no. 5) is turned from semi-finished steel or brass with a diameter of 25 mm. The workpiece is clamped into the chuck of the lathe, leaving the end 15 - 25 mm, end and drill a hole with a diameter of 5 mm, after which the washer is processed along the outer contour, cut off, drilled a hole, cut a thread 2.6 X 0.3 and sawed a groove 3 mm wide ...
The locking screw (part no. 6) is selected ready-made or made of steel wire with a diameter of 2.6 mm. A piece of wire is clamped in a vice and a thread 2.6 X 0.3 is cut at a distance of 8 - 10 mm, then the cut part is cut off, the ends are sawn down and a slot for a screwdriver is cut.
The flywheel (part No. 7) is made of any ornamental steel with a diameter of 75 mm. It is better to make a flywheel in this sequence. Clamp the workpiece into the chuck of the lathe, grind it to a diameter of 70 mm, then face it, drill a hole with a diameter of 4.9 mm and unfold it with a reamer with a diameter of 5 mm. Having expanded the hole, grind the inner cavity of the flywheel and cut it off. After that, again holding the flywheel into the chuck of the lathe, process its second side. After finishing machining the flywheel on a lathe, drill a hole for a pin with a diameter of 2.5 mm.
The pin (fig. 20, item no. 8) is turned from steel wire with a diameter of 3.5 mm.
When making a pin, special attention should be paid to ensure that the end of the pin with a diameter of 2.5 mm fits snugly into the hole in the flywheel.
The crank shaft (part No. 9) is made of steel rod with a diameter of 7.5 - 8 mm. The crank shaft should be processed in this sequence. First, the workpiece is grinded along the outer diameter of 7 mm so that the crank shaft fits tightly into the bearing (part No. 3), then the end is grinded at a distance of 7 mm to a diameter of 5.1 mm and filed with a small file, adjusting to a hole with a diameter of 5 mm in the flywheel. This end should press into the flywheel bore.
Having processed the end of the shaft, make a groove 3 cm wide at a distance of 23.5 mm from the end of the shaft, after which the crank shaft is rubbed against the bearing.
The crank shaft is lapped with a special lapping. It consists of two brass plates, the ends of which are connected by a ring (Fig. 21) in such a way that the plates can be compressed and expanded. On the inner sides on the plates there are two radial grooves, one opposite the other, the depth of which should be 1 - 2 mm less than the radius of the shaft to be lapped.
The lapping is carried out as follows. A lap is put on the grinding surface of the shaft, the grooves of which are preliminarily lubricated with emery and oil. Then, turning on the machine, the lapping is driven along the treated surface, squeezing the plates. Add emery and oil as you grind on the lapping.
The crank shaft is processed in this way until its surface is flat and it will not easily enter the bearing. After lapping, the shaft is cut off and, clamping it again into the chuck of the lathe, the second end is machined to a diameter of 5 mm. Then the shaft is clamped in a vice and the cut is cut according to the drawing.
When clamping the shaft in a vice, lead or aluminum plates should be placed under the jaws of the vice.
Figure: 21. Lap
The connecting rod (Fig. 20, item No. 10) is machined from bar steel with a diameter of 6.5 - 7 mm. First, the workpiece is machined on a lathe on top and a central hole with a diameter of 2.5 mm is drilled, then the workpiece is cut off, marked and drilled for finger holes. When drilling the latter, it is especially necessary to ensure that their axes are parallel.
The piston pin (det. No. 11) is made of 2 mm diameter piano wire. A rod of piano wire is well straightened with a wooden hammer, a 12 mm long piece is cut out of a well-straightened section and the ends are well cleaned with a small file and sandpaper.
The cylinder (item no. 12) is made of a steel bar with a diameter of 15 mm and a length of 50 - 60 mm. The workpiece is clamped into the chuck of the lathe so that its end with a length of 40 - 45 mm remains free, and a hole with a diameter of 11.8 mm is drilled to a depth of 31 mm. The bottom of the hole is countersinked with a flat countersink and deployed with a cylindrical sweep with a diameter of 12 mm. If there is no countersink at hand, you can use the same drill that drilled the cylinder hole, sharpening it at a right angle. After processing the cylinder bore, the cylinder is turned from above to a diameter of 14 mm and the workpiece is cut off.
The end of the cylinder is filed with a file, marked, holes are drilled and a thread is cut 0.3X2.6.
The piston (det. No. 13) is made of bronze with a diameter of at least 13 mph and a length of 30 mm. Having clamped the workpiece into the chuck of the lathe, holes with a diameter of 11 mm are drilled to a depth of 10 mm and the bottom is countersinked with a flat countersink. Then the piston is machined along the outer diameter up to 12.1 mm and its surface is processed with a fine (velvet) file and sandpaper. The paper should be placed on the plane of the file and then run over the surface to be treated, pressing lightly on the file.
It is necessary to process the piston with a file and sandpaper until it is free to enter the cylinder.
The piston should move freely in the cylinder, as they say, fall through its own weight, but at the same time not let air through (if you clamp the hole in the cylinder head, the piston should stop at the same time).
It is not recommended to grind the piston to the cylinder, since during grinding, fine particles of emery will eat into the bronze and remain in it, developing the cylinder.
The piston insert (ring) (part No. 14) is made of bronze or ornamental steel. On a lathe, a workpiece with a diameter of I mm and a thickness of 4 mm is turned, then the end is marked and two holes with a diameter of 4 mm are drilled. The metal between the holes is cut with a round file according to the drawing. Drill a hole in the insert for the piston pin with a diameter of 2 mm together with the piston.
The bed (fig. 22, item no. 15) is made of 4 mm thick sheet steel. First, the workpiece is cut out along the contour of the bed, then it is folded according to the drawing, after which the holes are marked, drilled, filed with a file and sanded with sandpaper.

STEAM MACHINE ASSEMBLY
The assembly of the steam engine should be started by fixing the crank shaft bearing (part no. 3) on the frame (part no. 15).
The crank shaft bearing is soldered to the frame with tin. For this, the place on the bearing, which enters the hole on the bed, is tinned. Then it is lubricated with etched acid, after which the bearing is inserted into the hole and the place of soldering is heated until the tin melts and floods the junction of the bearing with the frame. Having strengthened the bearing, the steam line and the inlet and outlet pipes are soldered to it.
The steam lines should be soldered in the same way as the bearing, that is, first tin the ends of the pipes, lubricate them with etched acid and then, putting them to the place of the solder, warm them up.
It is most convenient to warm up steam lines with a fevka, since it gives a thin tongue of flame and heats only the seam.
Having soldered the bearing and steam lines, the frame is sanded and lubricated with oil. It is necessary to lubricate the bed with oil to avoid rusting from the action of etched acid.
Then proceed to the assembly of the crank. The crank shaft is pressed into the central hole of the flywheel so that the cut on the shaft is facing in the opposite direction from the hole for the crank pin on the flywheel. On the opposite side of the shaft, a crank pin (det. No. 8) is pressed into the hole on the flywheel, after which the crank shaft is inserted into the bearing.
A drive washer is put on the other end of the shaft and secured with a locking screw. The crank with the drive washer fitted must rotate freely and without jamming in the bearing. If the crank rotates too tightly, it is necessary, by loosening the locking screw of the drive washer, move it slightly away from the bearing and secure it again with the locking screw.
Having inserted the crank and reinforced the drive washer, they proceed to assembling the piston group with the cylinder. A piston liner is soldered into the piston and a hole for the pin is drilled. Then the piston pin is connected to the connecting rod and inserted into the cylinder. After that, the lower head of the connecting rod is put on the crank pin and the cylinder is secured with screws on the upper part of the bed.
Having strengthened the cylinder, they check the build quality of the steam engine by rotating the crank shaft by the drive washer. The crank shaft of the assembled steam engine must rotate easily and without jamming. Seizing can be from improper cylinder or bearing installation. If during the check it turned out that there are imbalances, then they must be eliminated. Then they check the machine in operation, for this it is connected to a steam boiler and, turning the flywheel, start the machine.
When testing a steam engine with steam, it may happen that steam escapes somewhere in the joints of the steam line or passes between the bed and the cylinder head. If steam passes through the seams, then the seams must be soldered again. In the event of a vapor leak, it is recommended that a gasket of well-oiled paper be laid at the junction of the cylinder head with the bed. The gasket is cut to fit the plane of the cylinder head and holes are made for the passage of steam and screws.
After elimination of defects, the machine is connected to a motor or machine and run in for two to three hours. Then it is disassembled, washed well with kerosene, reassembled, lubricated with oil and installed on the model.
For a single cylinder steam engine, you can use the steam boiler described in the first chapter of our brochure.
When installing the steam engine on the model, it must be separated from the steam boiler by a partition. This is necessary so that the exhaust steam coming out of the steam engine cannot enter the furnace.
After each start-up, the steam engine should be lubricated with machine oil. For prolonged storage, grease with thick oil (autol, grease, etc.) is used, and it is recommended to wrap the machine in oiled paper.
A model test of this steam engine has shown that it can develop up to 800 rpm.
The steam engine built according to our drawings can be recommended for installation on models up to 1 m long and up to 2.5 kg displacement.

Chapter 3
SINGLE-CYLINDER STEAM MACHINE WITH Oscillating CYLINDER

DEVICE AND PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION
An oscillating cylinder steam engine (fig. 23) has the following main parts: bed, oscillating cylinder, flywheel, crank.
This machine represents the following design. On the bed (item no. 16), the crank axis bearing (item no. 19) and the cylinder swing axis (item no. 14) are mounted. There are six holes in the bearing head of the cylinder pivot axis, two of which run on the sides of the bearing center hole and end without going through by 1 - 1.5 mm. The remaining holes are drilled from the end face of the bearing head in pairs against the vertical holes in the bearing head.
The oscillating axis of the cylinder (part no. 12) rotates in the bearing. At one end of the axle there is a mushroom with a cylinder recess and two holes; at the other end a restrictive sleeve (part no. 15) is put on, which keeps the cylinder swing axis from axial movement. A cylinder (part No. 8) is soldered to the groove of the cylinder swing axis. The holes in the cylinder are connected to the holes in the mold of the cylinder swing axis, and the lower hole in the cylinder is connected to the holes in the mold by simple alignment when the cylinder is soldered to the mold, and the upper hole in the cylinder is connected by a hole in the mold of the cylinder swing axis by a bypass channel (det. eleven). which is soldered to the cylinder and the cylinder swing axis mushroom.
The cylinder is closed with covers (parts No. 5 and 9), which are pulled together by two screws (part No. 1).
In the lower cylinder cover, in the center, there are holes for the passage of the rod. In the cylinder of the steam engine there is a piston (item no. 6), which is fixedly connected to the rod (item no. 4).
Figure: 23. Drawing of a single-cylinder steam engine with a swinging cylinder: 1 - screw for fastening the cylinder covers; 2 - flywheel; 3 - crank pin; 4 - stock; 5 - bottom cylinder cover; 6 - piston; 7 - stem plug; 8 - cylinder; 9 - upper cylinder cover; 10 - tubes for inlet and outlet of steam; 11 - bypass channel; 12 - cylinder swing axis; 13 - locking screw; 14 - bearing of the cylinder swing axis; 15 - limiting sleeve of the cylinder swing axis; 16 - bed; 17 - crank axis restricting sleeve; 18 - crank axis; 19 - bearing of the crank axis
The stem of the steam engine is lightened inside and closed with a plug (part no. 7). A hole is drilled at the lower end of the stem, into which the pin is inserted (part no. 3). The crank pin is pressed into the flywheel (part No. 2), which at the same time is the crank cheek. An axle is pressed into the flywheel (det.
No. 18) rotating in a bearing (part No. 19). On the free end of the axle, a restrictive sleeve (part No. 17) with a slot for connecting to the propeller shaft is fixed.
In this design of the steam engine, when the crank shaft rotates, the cylinder, due to the fixed connection of the piston with the rod (connecting rod) of the steam engine, will swing on the axis of the cylinder. Such a steam engine is called an oscillating cylinder machine.
Steam distribution in an oscillating cylinder steam engine is performed as follows (fig. 24): at
During operation of the steam engine, the cylinder, swinging, takes the right and left positions. In extreme positions, the holes in the mushroom of the cylinder swing axis are aligned with the holes in the bearing head of the cylinder swing axis.
Steam enters one of the vertical holes in the bearing head and enters the end holes of the bearing, from which, when the holes of the mushroom of the cylinder swing axis are aligned, it flows alternately into the cylinder cavity, pushing the piston. Moreover, at the moment when steam enters the upper cavity of the cylinder, steam is pushed out of the lower cavity and vice versa.
It should be noted that at the moment when the piston is at the top or bottom dead center, the cylinder must be in a vertical position and the holes in the cylinder swing axis mushroom (part no. 12) should not align with the holes in the bearing head (part no. fourteen).
For a better understanding of the distribution of steam and the operation of an oscillating cylinder steam engine, let us examine a specific case of connecting a steam engine to a steam boiler.
Let the steam flow through the right vertical hole in the bearing head of the cylinder swing axis and enter the end holes in the bearing head. Let's imagine that the piston is at top dead center and the flywheel of the machine rotates counterclockwise when viewed from the cylinder side of the machine. When the flywheel rotates, the crank pin will move from the top to the bottom position along the left side of the circle described by the crank pin when the flywheel rotates. The cylinder, as the crank pin moves from the upper position to the lower position, will move to the right extreme position when looking at the machine from the cylinder side. At the time when the crank pin is at the point of contact with a straight line drawn to the circle described by the crank pin through the cylinder swing axis, the cylinder will be in the extreme right position.
With further movement of the crank pin to the lower extreme point, the cylinder will move to its vertical position. When the cylinder moves from the vertical position to its outermost hole in the fungus, the oscillation axes of the cylinder will be aligned with the holes in the bearing head. At the extreme position of the cylinder, these holes will be completely aligned. The upper hole in the cylinder pivot mushroom will align with the upper right hole in the cylinder pivot bearing head; the lower hole in the axle mushroom will align with the lower left hole in the bearing head.
But since fresh steam from the boiler enters through the right holes in the bearing head, therefore, when the holes are aligned, the steam will enter the upper cavity of the cylinder and push the piston from top dead center to bottom dead center. The vapor under the piston will be pushed out through the hole in the axle fungus, aligned with the hole in the bearing head, and will enter the left vertical hole in the cylinder pivot bearing head and be pushed out.
The alignment of the holes in the cylinder swing axis mushroom with the holes in the cylinder swing axis bearing head will begin at the moment when the piston moves away from the top dead center by 15 - 20 ° in the angle of rotation of the crank, and stops when the piston does not reach its bottom dead center by 15 - 20 ° in the angle of rotation of the crank.
As the flywheel rotates further, the lower hole in the axle mushroom will align with the inlet in the bearing head, and the upper hole in the axle mushroom will align with the left outlet in the bearing head. Consequently, during the period of time when the crank pin passes along the right half of the circle, fresh steam will enter the lower cavity of the cylinder and push the piston up. The exhaust steam will be pushed out from the upper cavity of the cylinder. By the way, it should be noted that the shaft of the machine when steam is injected through the right hole will rotate counterclockwise when looking at the machine from the cylinder side. If fresh steam is supplied to the machine through the left opening, the machine shaft will rotate clockwise.
Thus, it becomes quite clear that to reverse the machine's stroke, it is enough to switch the steam inlet to the machine.

PRODUCTION OF PARTS
It is not difficult to build a steam engine with an oscillating cylinder according to the drawings given in the brochure, but a lathe is required to manufacture the parts.
For convenience, the description of the design and manufacture of parts is given in the order of their numbering on the general view of the steam engine (Fig. 23). It is completely optional to build parts in the order of their description, and it is even recommended to make more labor-intensive parts first, and then more simple ones.
The cylinder head screw (fig. 25, item no. 1) is made of semi-finished steel or brass. If it is difficult to make a screw with a head from a whole piece of metal, you can take a wire 3 mm thick and 40 mm long, cut threads from both ends at a distance of 5 mm from the ends and on
screw on one of the connections a nut with a diameter of 3 mm. A stud and nut will successfully replace the cap screw.
The flywheel (det. No. 2) can be made from any ornamental steel. First, the workpiece, clamped in a lathe chuck, is ground to the diameter of the flywheel, then the end is machined according to the drawing and a central hole with a diameter of 5 mm is drilled, after which the flywheel is cut off, faceted and drilled a hole for a finger with a diameter of 2.8 mm.
The crank pin (det. No. 3) is made of silver with a diameter of 3 mm.
The stock (det. No. 4) is made of silver or steel grade U7A-g ~ U12A. First, the workpiece is grinded to a diameter of 6 mm with an allowance of 0.1 - 0.15 mm, then a hole with a diameter of 4 mm is drilled, filed along a diameter of 6 mm, sanded with a sandpaper, rubbed in, cut off and drilled a 3-mm hole for the crank pin.
The lower cylinder cover (fig. 26, item no. 5) is a sleeve with a flange for fastening. The bore of the sleeve with a diameter of 6 mm from the flange side is bored 7 mm to a depth of 10 mm. This is necessary in order to prevent the rod with the piston of the steam engine from jamming when the piston is in the bottom dead center. The bottom cover flange has two holes with a 3 mm thread.
The lower cylinder cover is made of bronze with a diameter of 25 mm. First, the workpiece is grinded to the desired diameter and trimmed, then it is grinded from the end in a diameter of 16 mm by 1 mm. A hole with a diameter of 5.9 mm is drilled in the center of the workpiece and unrolled with a 6 mm reamer. A hole with a diameter of 6 mm is reamed with a drill with a diameter of 7 mm to a depth of 10 mm.
After processing the end part and the hole of the cover, the outer surface is processed to a diameter of 10 mm, leaving a flange with a thickness of 2 mch, and cut off. Then mark the flange, drill holes, cut a thread M3 X mm and process along the contour of the flange.
The piston (item No. 6) is made of bronze. First, the piston is grinded with an allowance for the outer diameter of 0.5 - 1 mm. Then they put it on a mandrel, grind to size, grind and grind.
The stem plug (item no. 7) is made of brass or ornamental steel. Its manufacture is not difficult and is clear from the drawing.
The cylinder (det. No. 8) is made of steel with a diameter of 15.8 mm to a depth of 50 mm, after which it is expanded to 16 mm. Clamping the workpiece into the chuck, drill a hole, then grind the cylinder along the outer diameter and cut it off. After that, 0.2 mm holes are marked and drilled.
The upper cylinder cover (part No. 9) is made of bronze or ornamental steel with a diameter of 31 mm. First, the workpiece is machined to a diameter of 30 mm and its end is machined from the spherical side according to the drawing, then the second side of the cover is machined with a cutting cutter and cut off from the workpiece. After that, the flange is marked, holes are drilled and the contour of the flange is processed.
The steam inlet and outlet pipe (part no. 10) is cut from the finished pipe of suitable dimensions or soldered from sheet material.
The bypass channel (Fig. 27, det. No. 11) is made from a tube, which is first bent in half and cut at the bend. A workpiece 16 mm long is cut from the bent end, the lower part of which is cut with a file to half the diameter of the tube. If there is no ready-made soft tube of suitable dimensions, the bypass can be made of tinplate or brass with a thickness of 0.1 - 0.15 mm.
The swing axis of the cylinder (item 12) is made of steel (st. 40 - 50) with a diameter of 20 mm. First, the workpiece is grinded to a diameter of 3.5 mm and ground, after which the part is cut from the workpiece, trimmed, marked, drilled holes with a diameter of 2 mm in it and a socket is cut out along the outer diameter of the cylinder according to the drawing.
The locking screw (part No. 13) is made of silver or ornamental steel. Its manufacture is clear from the drawing.
The cylinder rocking axis bearing (part No. 14) is made of bronze with a diameter of 27 mm. First, the workpiece is machined to a diameter of 26 mm, then it is faceted. After that, a central hole with a diameter of 3.5 mm is drilled. Having drilled the central hole and processed the end, they retreat 6 mm from the end and grind the bearing sleeve to a diameter of 10 mm, after which the bearing head is cut off and milled or filing. Then the holes are marked and drilled - first two vertical, then four end holes.
The limiting sleeve of the cylinder swing axis (part no. 15) is made of ornamental 11-mm steel.
The bed (fig. 28, det. No. 16) is made of ornamental sheet iron 4 mm thick and 35X × 5 mm in size. First, the edge of the workpiece is bent at a right angle, according to the drawing, a contour is marked on it and a part is cut out of it, after which holes are marked and drilled, then the burrs are cleaned.
Limiting sleeve of the crank axis (fig. 27, part No. 17)
made of ornamental 11 mm steel. First, the workpiece is pulled to the dimensions of the drawing, then holes are drilled in it, in which a thread M ЗХ0\u003e 5 mm is cut and a groove is cut to connect with the propeller shaft.
The axis of the crank (fig. 28, det. No. 18) is made of silver with a diameter of 6 mm, its production is not difficult.
The crank shaft bearing (part no. 19) is made of bronze.

ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTMENT OF THE STEAM MACHINE WITH A ROCKING CYLINDER
When all the parts of the steam engine are ready, they start assembling the steam engine. It is most convenient to start assembly by strengthening the cylinder pivot bearing and the machine shaft bearing. The cylinder pivot bearing is installed with vertical holes facing up.
Tin solder bearings are reinforced in the bed. When installing bearings, make sure that their axes are strictly parallel to each other and perpendicular to the bed. After strengthening the bearings, the upper steam lines are soldered. They should be soldered using the same method that we understood when assembling a single-cylinder steam engine.
Having assembled the bed, they proceed to the assembly of the cylinder and the piston group. First, the cylinder is soldered to the recess of the cylinder pivot axis fungus. The place of the cylinder with which it is attached to the recess is tinned, then, having smeared with etched acid, the cylinder is pressed against the recess of the fungus so that the hole in the cylinder coincides with the hole in the fungus of the cylinder swing axis. After that, the place of soldering is heated until the tin melts. Having soldered the swing axis to the cylinder, the bypass channel is soldered.
The rod is lightly pressed into the piston and a plug is pushed into its hole. The plug (plug) should fit tightly into the stem and wedge its end. The piston must be firmly seated on the stem. In case the piston turns on the rod, then the connection of the rod with the piston from the plug side should be soldered. Then they insert the piston into the cylinder, put on the covers and screw them with screws. After folding the cylinder covers, check the movement of the piston in the cylinder. The piston should move easily from the top cap to the bottom. If the piston sticks near the lower cylinder cover, then slightly loosen the screws that hold the covers and move
on the cover, adjust the movement of the piston in the cylinder. After the position of the cylinder covers has been found, in which the piston moves without jamming, the screws tightening the covers are clamped.
Having assembled the piston group with the cylinder, they proceed to the assembly of the main shaft (crank shaft) of the flywheel and the crank pin. The main shaft and crank pin must be well pressed into the flywheel.
After the main units are assembled, proceed to the assembly of the steam engine and adjustment.
Insert the main shaft of the machine into the bearing and put on a restrictive fork sleeve, which is secured with a locking screw.
Rotating the shaft by the flywheel, check the ease and smoothness of rotation of the shaft. The flywheel should make 5 - 10 turns from one push by hand. After making sure that the main shaft of the machine rotates easily and without jamming, insert the swing axis of the cylinder into the bearing. When inserting the swing axis, it must be remembered that at the same time, the lower head of the rod (connecting rod) must be put on the crank pin. A restrictive sleeve is attached to the protruding end of the axle with a locking screw so that the swing axis of the cylinder does not have axial displacements, but has ease and smoothness of movement.
After assembling the machine, check the correctness of the assembly using steam. To do this, steam is supplied to one of the upper tubes and, placing the cylinder in a vertical position, make sure that the steam does not escape from the other upper tube and from the gap between the cylinder swing axis mushroom and the cylinder swing axis bearing head. Then, putting the cylinder alternately in the right extreme position and in the left one, it is checked whether the steam passes from under the upper or lower cylinder cover.
After checking the steam engine, it is run in. Then they are washed with kerosene, oiled and installed on the model.

STEAM BOILER FOR SINGLE CYLINDER STEAM MACHINE WITH Oscillating CYLINDER
In fig. 29 shows a boiler for an oscillating cylinder steam engine. This steam boiler differs from the boiler of a steam turbine in that its firebox is placed not under the boiler, but behind it, and hot gases wash the entire lower part of the boiler. Due to this design, this boiler is called a fire-tube boiler. Its advantage lies in the greater productivity of steam from a unit of heating area (the area of \u200b\u200bheating of a steam boiler is called its area washed from the inside by water, and from the outside by hot gases).
A steam boiler is manufactured from 0.5 mm thick sheet brass.
The safety valve (item no. 4) installed on a fire-tube steam boiler is no different from the safety valve of the simplest cylindrical boiler of a steam turbine (see Fig. 16). Therefore, it should be built according to the drawings of the steam boiler valve.
The boiler should be built in this sequence. First, a steam boiler cylinder is made (det. No. 3). To do this, roll up the cylinder and solder the seam, then put on and solder the covers (det. No. 7), then insert and solder the fire tube (det. No. 5). After soldering the flame tube, check the boiler for leaks. After making sure that the boiler is well sealed, a steam line (item no. 2), a chimney (item no. 1), a plug (item no. 8) and a steam boiler furnace (item Hya 9) are soldered to it.
The boiler manufacturing technology is not difficult and therefore is given above very briefly. Boiler details
and their dimensions are shown in Fig. 30, the details of the furnace are shown in fig. 31.
After completing the construction of the boiler, it should be tested and only then installed on the model.
When operating a steam engine with an oscillating cylinder, the rules recommended for a single-cylinder steam engine with distribution through the crank shaft should be observed.
The single-cylinder swinging cylinder steam engine, built according to our drawings, develops at full power 600 - 800 rpm and can be recommended for installation on models up to 2 m in size.

Chapter 4
CALCULATION OF A STEAM MACHINE AND A STEAM BOILER DETERMINING THE POWER OF A STEAM MACHINE

Often the modeler has to build a model for an existing steam engine. In this case, he faces the difficulty of choosing the size of the model.
The size of the model mainly depends not on the design and type of the steam engine, but on its power. Therefore, it is very important to be able to determine the power of an existing ready-made steam engine, without resorting to some kind of experiments and guesses, but to find it by the formula, substituting known values.
It should also be noted that the ability to determine the power of an existing steam engine will help a young designer to find the basic dimensions of a steam engine when designing a new machine for a given power.
To determine the power of a steam engine, you need to know the following values:
1) i is the number of cylinders.
2) T - type of machine - single or double acting.
A single-acting machine is understood to mean a machine in which steam presses on only one side of the piston. A double-acting machine is a machine in which steam presses alternately from two sides on a piston.
3) S - stroke of the piston, i.e. the path of movement of the piston from top dead center to bottom, expressed in meters.
4) D is the inner diameter of the cylinder, expressed in centimeters.
5) P - steam pressure in the boiler during operation of the steam engine.
6) yy - the number of revolutions developed by the steam engine per minute.
Having the above values, it is not difficult to calculate the power of the steam engine.
Let's remember that power is work per unit of time (second). Thus, determining the power of a steam engine is reduced to determining the work that it can perform in one second. But in turn, the machine works because steam enters it, and therefore the work that the machine does also produces steam, but in a larger volume than the machine, since the work of steam consists in the rectilinear movement of the machine piston. The work of the steam engine is carried out due to the transformation of the rectilinear movement of the piston into the rotational movement of the shaft.
Conversion of the rectilinear movement of the piston into rotational movement of the shaft is associated with large losses in the process of mechanical conversion. As a result, the work done by the steam in the cylinder is much greater than the work that a steam engine can do.
Distinguish DEe power of the steam engine: indicator and effective.
Indicator power is determined by the work of steam in the cylinder. Effective power is the shaft power of the steam engine.
The indicator power of the steam engine is more efficient. In steam machines of the model type, the indicated power with the effective is related by the following equation:

To determine the power of the steam engine, it is necessary to determine the work done by the steam per second, and then, using equation (1), determine the power on the shaft of the steam engine.
Model type machines are usually built with full steam filling. This means that steam begins to enter the cylinder at the moment when the piston is at or near top dead center, and flows until the piston reaches bottom dead center, or at least is near it.
Thus, the steam pressure in the cylinder during the movement of the piston from top dead center to bottom remains constant and almost equal to the pressure in the boiler.
Indicator power is determined by the formula:
To determine the effective power of the steam engine, use equation (1).
Example. Determine the shaft power of a single-acting single-cylinder steam engine, which has:
Decision. First, using equation (2), we determine the indicator power of the steam engine:

DETERMINATION OF THE BASIC DIMENSIONS OF A STEAM MACHINE BY A GIVEN POWER
The most interesting task that a young designer has to solve is designing a steam engine for a given power.
When designing, the greatest difficulty is encountered when choosing the main dimensions of the cylinder of a steam engine, which must be selected so that the machine develops the required power.
To determine the basic dimensions of the cylinder of a steam engine of a given power, it is necessary to set the steam pressure in the boiler, at which the steam engine will operate; the ratio of the piston stroke to the cylinder diameter and the number of revolutions of the steam engine shaft.
When choosing the working pressure in the boiler, it is not recommended to choose the latter more than 3 atm.
The number of revolutions developed by the shaft of a model-type steam engine is on average 500 - 1000 rpm, depending on the quality of the steam engine.
The ratio of the piston stroke S to the cylinder diameter D in model-type machines is usually 1.5 - 2. This ratio is expressed by the formula:
Setting the steam pressure in the boiler P, the ratio of the piston stroke to the cylinder diameter K and the number of revolutions of the steam engine n and choosing the number of cylinders of the steam engine i and the type of action Г, determine the stroke of the steam engine piston using the formula:
Having determined the piston stroke and cylinder diameter, you can start designing a steam engine.

CALCULATION OF THE STEAM BOILER
The main thing when calculating a steam boiler is to determine its dimensions. The size of the steam boiler must be chosen so that it can ensure the normal operation of the steam engine at full power, i.e.
the steam capacity of the steam boiler must be equal to the amount of steam consumed by the steam engine. Consequently, the boiler output is directly dependent on the steam engine. But in turn, the performance of a steam boiler depends on the size of its heating area. Naturally, the larger the boiler heating area, the greater its steam productivity. The heating area of \u200b\u200ba boiler is its surface, washed on one side by water, and on the other by hot gases.
The productivity of modern industrial boilers reaches 40-50 kg of steam per hour from 1 m2 of heating area. This means that a steam boiler with a heating area of \u200b\u200b1 m2 can produce 40-50 kg of steam per hour.
In boilers of the model type, the productivity of steam from 1 m2 is much lower and equals on average 5-10 kg of steam per hour.
The heating area of \u200b\u200ba steam boiler for a steam engine is determined by the formula:
where 5 is the required heating area;
m: - the ratio of the circumference to its diameter, equal to 3.14;
D is the cylinder diameter of the machine, expressed in meters; 5 - the stroke of the piston of the steam engine, expressed in meters; n is the number of revolutions of the steam engine per minute; i is the number of cylinders of the steam engine;
Т - type of operation of the steam engine (for single-acting machines - 1, and for double-acting machines - 2);
Wl is the specific volume of steam, i.e. the volume of 1 kg of steam, expressed in m3 (taken from the table, see at the end of the brochure);
W is the specific output of the boiler, i.e. the output from 1 m2 of heating area.
Example. Determine the size of the heating area of \u200b\u200bthe steam boiler for a machine in which the piston stroke 5 \u003d 0.03 w, cylinder diameter 1) \u003d 0.015 w. At full power, the machine develops n \u003d 1000 rpm at a pressure in the boiler P - 3 atm. The machine is single-cylinder and simple action.
Decision. The heating area of \u200b\u200ba steam boiler is determined by formula (5), but before using it, it is necessary to set the specific steam output of our boiler, i.e., W, and determine, using the table, the specific volume of steam at a pressure in the boiler of 3 atm.
The specific performance of our boiler is W \u003d 10 kg of steam from 1 m2 of heating area.
Using the table, we determine the specific volume of steam: Wx 0.47.
Now, having all the quantities included in the right side of the formula, we find 5 - the heating area of \u200b\u200bthe boiler:
Knowing the heating area of \u200b\u200bour boiler, you can start designing and determining the main dimensions of the boiler.
When designing a steam boiler, it should be remembered that its heating area is only that part of its surface, which is washed on one side by water, and on the other by hot gases.
The second and very important stage in calculating a steam boiler is its strength calculation. The strength calculation of a steam boiler consists in determining the pressure in the boiler, above which the boiler can burst.
The maximum allowable pressure in the boiler is determined by the formula:
where P pr is the maximum permissible pressure in the boiler in atmospheres;
H is the thickness of the boiler walls in centimeters;
D is the diameter of the boiler in centimeters;
a - permissible stress for the material of which the boiler is made. For iron it is equal to 1200 kg / cm2, and for brass - 800 kg / cm2.
Example. Determine the maximum permissible pressure in a cylindrical boiler with a diameter of 8 cm. A steam boiler was made of brass 0.5 mm thick.
Decision. The maximum allowable pressure in the boiler is determined by the formula (6), it is equal to:
This means that an increase in pressure in the boiler above 10 atm can lead to rupture of the steam boiler.
It is strictly forbidden to operate the boiler at a pressure equal to the maximum permissible pressure. Each
the model boiler must operate with a threefold safety factor. This means that the operating pressure in the boiler must be equal to! / 3 of the maximum permissible pressure.
When the pressure in the boiler rises by 1/3, the safety valve of the steam boiler must open.
The design of the safety valve is the third step in the design of a steam boiler and consists in determining the pressure of the valve spring. The force of the valve spring pressure is found by the formula:
where F is the force of steam pressure on the valve in kilograms;
1c - the ratio of the circumference to its diameter, equal to 3.14;
D - valve diameter in centimeters;
P is the pressure in the boiler at which the valve should open.
Example. Calculate the force of the valve spring pressure if it is known that the maximum pressure in the boiler should not exceed 3 atm.
The inner diameter of the valve is D \u003d 5 mm.
Decision. The force of the spring pressure is determined by the formula (7):
The above calculations, despite their primitiveness, will help young designers get used to the technical analysis of their structures, to a competent assessment of machine parts, to a reasonable choice of the basic dimensions of model steam installations.

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Book text recognition from images (OCR) - creative studio BK-MTGK.

Die Zerstörung ..

McGregor vs Fury has to happen !!

Check mal mein kanal ab bitte

Hätte echt keiner gedacht das er so stark kämpft 👍🏾☝🏼

Gekaufter Kampf wilder boxt viel anders

Tyson Fury ist so ein echter Rocky Balboa Charackter

Pech für Wilders, daß sein Trommelfell platzte. Da konnte er nur noch wegen dem komplett ausgefallenen Gleichgewichtssinn durch den Ring taumeln. Ich hatte das auch schon und es ist das Aus! Schade!

• Ehre wem Ehre gebührt👍🏻Bin Wilder Fan aber man muss zugeben er hat leider keine Chance gehabt Glückwunsch Furry

  Schaut euch mal den boxkampf richtig an und ab dieser zeit als wilder am ohr getroffen wird dreht er sich bei jedem schlag von fury weg nicht normal mehr🙏

  Ach ja ..... Ali is the Greatest

  OK er hat gewonnen (durch einen Treffer der Wilder das Gleichgewicht genommen hat, das kann im Schwergewicht immer passieren), nun einmal ehrlich, was für ein Niveau ist es insgesamt für das Boxen? Eben, es ist erbärmlich im Vergleich zu wirkliche guten Boxern und Boxkämpfen.

  Dann lieber Syncronschwimmer der Männer ansehen .... da ist mehr Feuer drin

  Fury super leistung👍 aber alle die jetzt wilder abschreiben langsam ??? Das war nicht mehr wilder nach dem treffer am ohr kein gleichgewicht mehr und so kein richtiger stand zu boxen das ist sehr übel im kampf und ein grosser nachteil.

  Wilder auf dem boden zusehen tut weh als fan😥

  Wilder hat den Kampf verkauft so schlecht kann doch net sein ernst sein !!

  Ali oder Tyson würden die beiden zerlegen

  Wilder zu inaktiv und unbeweglich - nur auf den einen Schlag warten is zu wenig

  Der Typ auf dem Thron ist Knossi 😂😂

  Mike Tyson hätte sich nie im Leben von so einem Weißbrot fertig machen lassen .... So geht das nicht weiter ich kündige hä

  Voll komisch alles

  Weiß man schon welche Verletzung Wilder erlitten hat?

  Soll das wirklich Boxen sein? Hat sich wie die Musik von heute entwickelt

  Best Wrestling fight 2020! No Boxing.

• Fury Wieder mit diesem spritzen Psychopath

  Ekelhafter Typ der Fury

  Der Herr segne dich du machst einen tollen Job unsern Jesus zu verkünden

  Habe DAZN gerade gekündigt. Die haben alle meine Daten, Kontonummer, Adresse, Geburtsdatum, aber ich konnte den Kampf nicht gucken, weil ich keinen deutschen Pass habe! Absolut peinlicher Laden!

  Wilder wurde raw doggy genommen

  WILDER BLEIBT NO1!

  Beide waren gut aber fury war diesen Kampf einfach besser aber ich glaube wenn fury ihn nicht so am Ohr getroffen hätte wäre der Kampf anders ausgegangen

  Vallah wilder wird ihn noch auseinander nehmen

  Ich feiere beide Boxer, ich weiß nicht ob ich mich freuen oder ärgern soll .. Bin einfach nur froh, dass wir zwei so großartige Boxer haben und sowas überhaupt erleben dürfen! Respekt an beide gg Fury

  Uff die deutsche profi boxer community Wie lächerlich alle auf einmal voll profis geworden kennen sich am besten aus. XD Na dann ihr internet rambos boxt mal gegen wilder klappt sicher;)

  AJ vs Fury und ich sage euch voraus: AJ gewinnt.

  Crazy, schade das Wilder verloren hat, aber Fury verdient gewonnen. 🥊🥊🥊👊🏼👍🏼

  trotzdem respekt an wilder .. die ersten 2 runden waren relativ ausgeglichen. aber nach dem ohr treffer war wilder nicht mehr da aber konnte trotzdem auf beinen stehen. wer weiss wie lange er noch ausgehalten hätte wenn kein handtuch geflogen wäre.

  Wilder hat so viel gelabert aber dann reingeschissen

  Was für ein scheiss habt ihr denn da zusammengeschnitten 😄😄😄😄 ???

  Fury wusste dass das Trommelfell von Wilder gerissen ist und hat das selbstverständlich ausgenutzt, wie es jeder gemacht hätte. Hätte trotzdem gerne gewusst wie der Kampf ausgegangen wäre, hätte Wilder nicht dieses Handicap gehabt. Trotzdem Respekt an Fury. Glanzleistung!

  Seltsamster Mensch auf diesem Planeten

  Kirmesboxer genau wie die Klitschko's. Sollten besser im Zirkus auftreten. Tyson, Hollyfield, Lewis das waren Boxer. Schade das der Boxsport Geschichte ist.

  Dafür bin ich wach geblieben, Fury der dreckigste Boxer aller Zeiten. Der Box aufm Hinterkopf / Ohr war schon link, selbe bei Klitschko gemacht mehr als dreckig sein kann der nicht.

  Fury ist maschine

  TSCHIPSI-King, soso

  Alhamdulilah ☝️❤

  Wo sind die richtigen Jungs von damals ... Heute nur noch steifes Schachspiel .....

  Html Checkt meinen neuen Beat

  Sehr schade das Wilder nicht gewonnen hat. Leider hat ihn der Lucky Punch getroffen und danach war er einfach KO. Passiert halt im Schwergewicht aber extrem bitter für ihn. Vieleicht sollte er nun seine Karriere beenden. Was soll er noch groß gewinnen nun ?? In Kampf 3 wird es bestimmt so laufen wie gegen Otto Wallin. Da muss er dann gegen die Ring und Punkte Richter boxen. Da kann er eigentlich nur verlieren und Joshua wird sich ihm so oder so nicht stellen. Wozu noch unnötig Kämpfe gegen Durchschnittsboxer ?? (White und Co). Außer zum Geld verdienen lohnt sich das für ihn nicht. Mit einer Niederlage kann man aufhören und sein Gesicht waren. War doch eine erfolgreiche Karriere und 1 Kampf kann man mit Pech mal verlieren. Er kann stolz sein auf das was er erreicht hat.

  Und er will einen jungen Mike Tyson besiegen?

  Tyson Fury: sieht aus wie ein großer, unsportlicher und langsamer Typ - und ist das exakte Gegenteil davon. Stark, ausdauernd, schnell, präzise.

  So schade das so ein athletischer afroamerikaner der sehe groß ist, meiner Meinung nach gegen so einen frechen schwabbel Tante zu verlieren. Sehr schade 😾

  Damit Fury überhaupt noch kämpfen darf der Scheiß kokser

  was ist dat denn für ne peinliche kasper show

  SCHNAPP IM DIER Johnny? 😎

  Glückwunsch an Fury, verdienter Sieg ... finde auch gut das Wilder beim Interview nicht auf das Ohr eingegangen ist sondern klar gessgt hat: "der bessere Mann hat heute gewonnen", aber Wilder hat Herz bewiesen und net und alle no eingmalesteck mitschreiben, Wilder hat ein TROMMELFELLRISS, damit ist überhaupt nicht zu spaßen und erst recht nicht im Boxen, wenn das Gleichgewicht durch so eine verletzung so beeinträchtigt wird, ich glaube wir hätten ooh, ich glaube wir hätten oh light. Kampf der beiden

  canyoumakeit.redbull.com/de-de/applications/1716 Hi Freunde, wir sind team NRG und haben die Redbull Challenge can you make it? mitgemacht.Wir vertreten team Deutschlamd sowie RWTH Aachen Uni.Wir brauchen eure Unterstützung und würden uns freuen wenn ihr für unser Bewerbungsvideo durch den obigen Link voten würdet.NRG dankt Euch! 😍

  Ich weiß nicht wirklich was ich von dem Kampf halten soll .... Viele Schläge auf den Hinterkopf und der Abbruch, es bleibt abzuwarten wie schwerwiegend die Innenohr Verletzung istu ... Sollte es keine gravierende Verlet dezung se Im ersten Kampf hätte der Ringrichter auch sofort abbrechen können, als Tyson besinnungslos da lag + Das Blut gelecke war irgendwie drüber. Weiß auch immer noch nicht was ich von Tyson halten soll, Mann der Comebacks und trotzdem ein komischer Kautz