What year? In general, only D2 needs to be poured. And in the manual it is written and people who know say. D3 cannot be poured!

What boxes were put on the car:
V4AW2 - aka Aisin Warner (AW) 03-72L (with a lockup torque converter (letter L)), aka Toyota A40 family (in particular A44DL). Solid hydromechanics, from electrics only the 4th gear valve and a simple on / off circuit for 4th gear. There were models of this automatic transmission without locking the torque converter.
V4AW3 - aka Aisin Warner (AW) 30-43LE, aka Toyota A340 family. A box with electronics (separate ecu for the box), a bunch of sensors and electronics both inside and outside.

Both boxes were in several different modifications for different engines. The same boxes were used on many other cars, not only from Toyota, but also from Volvo, Suzuki, Jeep, Isuzu and many other places.

How to determine what kind of automatic transmission you have.
On cars with engines 4D56 and 6G72 12 cl - only automatic transmission V4AW2 was installed.
On cars with 4M40, 6G72 24 cl and 6G74 (DOHC, SOHC) engines, only the V4AW3 automatic transmission was installed.
On machines with a 6G74 GDI engine, there are other boxes, a tiptronic V5A51.

What kind of oil to pour and automatic transmission?
Mitsu's official manual says - Dia Queen ATF SP, ATF DEXRON II or equivalent. No ATP3, 4, or 10.
The first has not been produced for a long time, and the second is available quite extensively, since Well, a lot of machines go on this oil.
ATF DEXRON II (aka D2 or ATF 2) has different specifications - D2-D (mineral base) and D2-E (semi / synthetic base), have different pour points. The additive package in these fluids is the same, the flow properties are almost identical.
D2-D is sold everywhere, but D2-E is few and far between (but it is produced by manufacturers, but there is little luck in Russia) and costs more than D2-D.

Pay attention to the word "equivalent" in the official. manual. There are situations when people pour ATF 3 or even ATF 5 into a box with a mileage of 200k km (there was such a thing). These ATPs are not equivalent to ATP2, because have a different base (synthetics or semi-synthetics) and other additives that affect the operation of the clutches and the condition of the rubber cuffs in the automatic transmission. These additives are the key to a long and happy life of the automatic transmission, provided that the automatic transmission is serviced in a timely manner (replacing the ATF after 45k km with removing the filter).

There are situations when people come to the store to buy oils, the sellers look at the catalog of the oil manufacturer and see there not ATP 2, but ATP 3. A person bought, filled in and drives, and such a change can be fatal after a certain number of kilometers. will say "Everything is daragoy, I have arrived ...".

I do not pretend to be the ultimate truth, but it is better to pour what the car manufacturer recommends.

How many grams of ATP to hang in a box?
V4AW2 - about 7.2 liters.
V4AW3, depending on the year of production of the car: up to 98 years - about 8.5 liters, from 98 (restyled cars) - 9.8 liters.

What happens if you don't add / pour AFT into the box?
ATP foams well. ATP 3 foams much stronger than ATP 2 at the same temperature. Tested from personal experience. : :-):

With a lack of ATF, the automatic transmission pump will suck in air along with ATF and thereby create foam instead of oil.
When ATF is poured into the automatic transmission, planetary gears and drums with clutch packs also foam ATF by 5+.
If there is foam in the automatic transmission, and not ATF, then the automatic transmission will work incorrectly (pushing, kicking when shifting gears and automatic transmission modes), or it may even break down - the clutch packs will burn, the thrust bearings will crumble, there will be development on the sliding bushings (normal ATF lubricates better than air, and also does not compress, unlike foamed atf).

How to understand that something is wrong with automatic transmission?
The first thing to do is check the color, smell and ATF level in the automatic transmission.

Color and smell - ATF should be red and smell like ATF (neither engine oil nor transmission smells like that). If the color is not red, but for example brown or black, and even the smell of burning or the smell of a transmission, then the clutches are burnt / burnt. This can only be cured by disassembling, replacing burnt clutches, steel discs, rinsing all the giblets in kerosene and repairing the torque converter.

Level - should be as expected on the dipstick. The leveling process is straightforward. We put the car on a level surface, start the engine, switch all automatic transmission modes from P to L with a delay in each position for 5 seconds, put the selector in neutral and look at the probe. Looks differently for different boxes.

V4AW2 has 4 marks on the probe - COLD (min, max) and HOT (min, max). Accordingly, the cold ATF should be at the COLD level between the min and max marks, and for the hot one (after a run of 5-10 km) - between the HOT marks.

V4AW3 had different probes. Up to 96 years old, a probe with 4 marks (like on AW2), after 96 years - with 3 marks. Accordingly, the level check on the automatic transmission dipstick with 4 risks is identical to AW2.
V4AW3 since 96 has 3 marks on the dipstick - COLD (min, max) and HOT. Level check - identical to V4AW2. Only the hot ATF should be close to the HOT label.

This is ideally at 20 degrees Celsius. In reality, + - 5 mm back and forth at the oil level is not scary at all, but + - 1-2 cm is no longer good, the level must be urgently adjusted.

If everything is fine with the ATF, but the automatic transmission is still weird (it switches with blows or with delays (it should be switched from mode to mode within 2 seconds), does not adequately respond to the gas pedal, does not drive, makes noise, vibrates), then the problem is the insides of the automatic transmission and / or the electronic control unit and sensors, the DPDZ "died" or the automatic transmission control cable has become unusable.
And all this is definitely a reason to contact a doctor. And then a splinter can lead to blood poisoning (sorry, such is the allegory).

Why dying automatic transmission.
1. From overheating. It is enough to slip in shit on D and get ready for the consequences. Also, for overheating, it is enough for the automatic transmission radiator to be clogged with fluff, dirt or other junk.
2. From oil leaks. A leak may be through the tubes of the automatic transmission cooling circuit. Or through the front or rear automatic transmission oil seals.
If you find drops of ATF "blood" under the car and the level in the guru has not escaped, then this is the oil from the automatic transmission.
3. From old age. This happens if you do not change the oil in the machine for a long time. Old oil leads to the tanning of the rubber cuffs in the drums of the automatic transmission, and the hardened gum does not hold the pressure in the right place. The result is that the clutches are on.

V4AW2 box problems.
1. The operation of the box is very dependent on the serviceability of the automatic transmission control cable. Therefore, if the cable got out of the braid or loosened, broke, then it needs to be changed. The replacement procedure is only with the removal of the pallet from the automatic transmission, otherwise nothing. Any DPDs and others like them do not affect the operation of this automatic transmission at all.
2. Due to electrical problems, 4th gear dies. More precisely, there is an electronic circuit, which, based on the engine coolant temperature, allows or prohibits the inclusion of 4th gear.
If there are problems with the total weight in the car, problems with wiring, then this can lead to problems.
3. Death of the solenoid OD or 4th gear. As a rule, the channel inside this solenoid is clogged, but this happens if the car was not liked at all.

If we talk about this box in general, it is quite reliable and durable with proper care and operation. Even with burnt out clutches, it can go, not as it should, but it can.

Changing grease in Pajero

An oil change in Mitsubishi Pajero is carried out as planned, like the rest of the procedures for a thorough change of all vehicle fluids. Not a single experienced motorist has any doubts about the obligation of this event, especially since it is written in the Pajero service book, although the timing does not always correspond to reality.

Mitsubishi Pajero Sport diy lubricant replacement

Updating of working fluids should be carried out regularly. The event affects the following components and elements of the SUV:

• brake reservoir;
• radiator;
• front. and ass. differential;
• handout;

Automatic transmission

It is advisable to change the transmission in the automatic transmission at the service station. An automatic transmission is a complex mechanism that requires proper maintenance. If the car is still under warranty, then you need to use the services of an official service. If not, and "Padzherik", for example, of the Arab assembly, you will have to look for the most acceptable options.

Although, you can call the official service and explain the situation by phone. They will count, and within 10 minutes they will answer how much the replacement will cost.

In most cases, replacing a lubricant in official services is several times cheaper than in a garage. But it depends on the specific place of residence. It also happens that garage services cost almost half the price.

The high cost of services is often attributed by employees to the cost of the composition, filter. Here you can offer your own oil, which you managed to buy in the store for a low price. Many service stations agree to this option, some do not.

By the way, in Pajero, the automatic transmission filter is designed for the entire life of the car. So it is updated only in rare cases.

As for the work time, it takes about 5-6 hours to replace the lubricant in the services.

Grease renewal methods

Now about the ways in which you can update the transmission in the Pajero box. There are 3 main scenarios for the development of events.

1. The oil is changed in a classical, standard way - partially. In this case, the liquid is simply refreshed. This method has practically no negative consequences, and the risk of spoiling the box due to poor-quality service is reduced to naught.
2. Complete replacement. Here one cannot do without service station services. With such a replacement, special equipment should be used, as well as equipment that helps the oil to push through. Thus, the old ATP is squeezed out of the box, and the vacated space is replaced with new oil.
3. This option is only suitable for experienced car owners. It implies, again, a full-fledged replacement of ATP, but on its own.

Partial update

Here's how it's done:

• the crankcase drain plug is unscrewed;
• ATP is merged exactly as much as it comes out;
• the plug is put in place;
• the amount of drained liquid is measured, and then exactly the same amount is poured into the box.

This method can refresh almost half of the transmission fluid (ATF). There are no drastic changes in the box, and the new fluid is evenly mixed with the old one. This procedure is recommended during maintenance not once, but several times (3-4).

The main advantage of this procedure is that it can be done with your own hands, without stopping by the service and without using someone else's help. In addition, with this method, a small dose of oil is bought (it is known to be expensive, but in this case you can buy ATP gradually), and the mandatory additives do not leave the machine.

Replacing TJ in the table

There are also disadvantages compared to a full replacement. They relate primarily to a higher oil consumption, because such a procedure must be carried out several times, and a complete replacement is carried out only once, after several hundred kilometers.

Complete ATP update

Here are the main stages of this method:

• tubes of a special apparatus are inserted into the automatic transmission;
• the car starts up;
• aTP renewal process begins.

The course of manipulation must be monitored through a special window: ATP reaches the desired color - the device turns off immediately. With a complete update, the costs will already be higher. You need to buy about 11 liters of ATP to be enough. They will also take a lot for the work itself, so you will have to fork out. At the same time, you can ask employees to wash the box and check the condition of the filter.

100% replacement of ATF has many advantages, including a significant reduction in fuel consumption. This can be explained by the fact that after the upgrade, losses in the torque converter are reduced to a large extent, and the response of the machine itself becomes much better. As for the shortcomings, they concern only the qualification level of the workshop workers. Choose a quality service and there shouldn't be any problems.

Complete DIY replacement

Here's what to do:

• warm up the box well (driving 5 kilometers will be enough);
• lift the car to the overpass;
• turn off the engine;
• remove the crankcase plug;
• wait until the liquid is drained;
• unscrew the pallet, in which there is still a lot of ATF;
• remove the filter and clean it with gasoline;
• clean the pallet well and thoroughly;
• insert the filter back;
• refresh the liquid;
• disconnect the tubes;
• put on gasoline or hydraulic hoses on the highways and lower the latter into an empty container (it is better to immediately large to fit);
• start the engine;
• as the liquid goes, start monitoring the color - it will acquire a fresh color, which means that you need to stop the power unit.

Council. It is advisable to use the help of an assistant. Let him sit behind the wheel and turn off the engine as soon as he receives a signal from you.

After that, it remains only to collect everything back. It is recommended to be sure to diagnose the fluid by the marks after the car has traveled some distance.

The main advantage of this method is the low price. For the rest, only cons. First, you need to have experience, otherwise you can ruin the gearbox. Secondly, even knowing all the specifics of the event, you get no guarantee.

How to find out the replacement time

Yes, many will be interested in knowing this. The fact is that the recommendations indicated in the passport data do not correspond to reality at all, since the car is not operated in ideal conditions. So you have to follow this yourself.

Here are some helpful tips:

• if ATP is transparent (even dark), then you should not rush to replace it;
• if it is cloudy and there can be no talk of any transparency, then a replacement is required without fail.

It's worth going to a familiar service station for a check - they must say everything for sure. By the type of transmission, you can also determine the state of the box. If the liquid has a burning smell and contains a mixture of shavings and crumbs, it is urgent to sell the car or dispose of it in some other way. In this case, it will be necessary not only to update the ATF, but also to repair the automatic transmission (at best, it will cost to replace the filter, oil seals and gaskets). All this cannot be cheap, and the owner will have a hard time financially.

The 5-speed automatic transmission on Pajero 4 and Pajero Sport requires periodic inspection, at least every 5 years.

In addition, the following points may indicate a problem with ATP:

• the machine suddenly "buggy" in the heat;
• under a traffic light, in a traffic jam, the speed switches poorly.

You cannot operate the car for a long time in harsh conditions, drag a trailer, often drive in deep snow and mud. Aggressive driving should be avoided when torque limits are involved. Remember that if, after replacing ATP, the fluid quickly "ages", and the problems with the box do not disappear, the automatic transmission requires more serious care.

What kind of oil to fill

Name	automatic transmission fluid Mitsubishi Motors ATF SP 3
Sale	in 1 liter and 4 liter cans
Composition	synthetics
Corrosion, oxidation and thermal stability	excellent
Resistant to foaming	good
Anti-seize properties	excellent
Viscosity-temperature properties	excellent
Shear stability	good
Pumpability indicator	a great
Low temperature fluidity	high
Compatible with all types of gaskets	complete
Anti-friction indicators	high
Thermal conductivity indicators	good
Torque carrying capacity	high

Engine

Now about what kind of oil to fill in the Pajero ICE. As a rule, this is mainly a matter of taste for the owner himself. But the following nuances must be taken into account without fail (otherwise, problems cannot be avoided).

Here are the oils you need to fill, depending on the type of Pajero ICE (several main engines are shown in the table).

Caring for your car is the prerogative of experienced owners who understand the importance of caring. By performing various procedures periodically, they gain valuable experience. Many works, including repairs, such as or an oil filter, are performed by them without special rules, which makes it possible to save on services at the service station. Work on replacing fluids is no exception in this regard.

Mitsubishi Pajero is a unique line of SUVs characterized by a harmonious balance between quality and price. For several years in a row, these cars won first place in the cross-country race in the Dakar rally, which once again confirms their reliability and high quality.

Changing the fluid in the gearbox of such a car should be regular, as well as changing all other fluids. Every car enthusiast knows how important it is to change the lubricating transmission oil in time, because delay is fraught with all sorts of troubles with the vehicle. In addition, in some cases, changing the lubricant is strongly recommended by the manufacturer himself, however, the stated timing of such a procedure is rather vague.

Features of replacing grease for the Pajero 4 gearbox

Mitsubishi Pajero gearboxes are often very demanding on the quality of the lubricant, therefore the manufacturer recommends using only a few oils selected by him. It is also advisable to make a replacement in a specially designated place with modern equipment by highly qualified specialists.

It should be mentioned again that replacing the oil fluid in the gearbox is a mandatory and regular procedure. In addition to the gearbox, fluids must be regularly replaced in other structural assemblies, such as a radiator, differential, brake reservoir, power steering and transfer case.

The automatic transmission is a rather complex mechanism, so the manufacturer recommends replacing the oil lubricant at a special service center. In addition, if the vehicle warranty has not yet expired, you can use the official service. Sometimes replacing grease in professional centers can be even cheaper than a DIY procedure, but this depends on where in the world the car is used. Often, everything happens exactly the opposite - it is the replacement of the lubricant on our own that turns out to be much cheaper than the service one, sometimes the price of such a procedure can differ by 50% less from the price of the official service.

Overpricing in service centers is often justified by the cost of fluid, filter and expensive hardware fluid replacement equipment. However, in this case, you can try to offer your own oil - many centers today make concessions to the client.

Officially, the filter element of the Pajero 4 transmission is calculated for the entire life of the vehicle and should only be updated in isolated cases.

The procedure for replacing the oil composition in the automatic transmission Pajero 4

Oil change in the Pajero 4 automatic transmission can be done in two ways:

1. Partial change of transmission fluid - this method renews the oil composition, but not completely;
2. Complete oil change - this procedure is considered more reliable than a partial oil change.

The first option, as a rule, is able to prolong the functional qualities of the automatic transmission for some time, but this method is still considered temporary, since the remains of old oil remain in the transmission box, containing various harmful impurities.

In order to carry out an incomplete fluid change in an automatic transmission, you need to perform the following steps:

1. The first step is to warm up the car - the heated oil has a lower degree of viscosity, so it drains much faster;
2. It is necessary to find the drain plug and unscrew it, substituting a container for the waste material prepared in advance;
3. The oil composition is drained into a container;
4. The plug is screwed back on again;
5. The volume of oil that has flowed out of the drain hole is measured, and exactly the same volume of new oil is poured into the box.

This method is quite effective, although it allows you to change the oil composition only by half - in this case, the new oil is mixed with the old one. This procedure has a significant plus - it can be carried out without resorting to the services of specialists, since it is very simple and understandable. It is recommended to carry out it several times during the scheduled replacement period.

Another plus of this procedure is that a lot of lubrication is not required, and the mandatory additives that were in the previous composition remain in the current one. Of course, this procedure without periodic repetition is not highly effective, in contrast to a complete change of the lubricant composition, which is carried out once every several hundred kilometers.

The procedure for a complete lubrication change in an automatic transmission using the device is as follows:

1. Special hardware tubes are inserted into the gearbox;
2. The car engine starts;
3. A process that renews ATP is started.

A complete change of oil to CO is an expensive pleasure, as oil will be needed twice as much as an incomplete one. Wanting to save money, many motorists carry out the procedure on their own. The following steps are taken for this:

• The box is warmed up with a short trip;
• The machine becomes and is fixed above the inspection pit;
• The drain plug is unscrewed;
• The old liquid is drained and the pallet is unscrewed;
• The filter element is cleaned of impurities and inserted into place;
• A new oil fluid is poured;
• The plug is twisted;
• The motor starts up, and gears are sequentially switched;
• Next, you need to drain the resulting liquid again and fill in a new one;
• Measure the oil level with a dipstick;
• Screw on the cap, make a short trip and measure the fluid level again.
• It is strongly recommended that only the manufacturer's grease is added to the transmission.

Outcome

The procedure for replacing the lubricant composition in the Mitsubishi Pajero 4 automatic transmission should be carried out in the conditions of modern equipment by qualified craftsmen. When, for some reason, this approach is not relevant, first of all you need to carefully understand the stages of changing the fluid and purchase a branded lubricant from the manufacturer. It should be remembered that a timely change of the oil fluid helps to avoid various problems with the gearbox and extend its operational life.

Today we have a Mitsubishi Pajero car, with a 3.2 liter diesel engine, produced in 2008, on which it is necessary to change the oil in the automatic transmission. We will show you how to do it yourself correctly.

We raise the car, remove the protection. To remove the pallet, we need to dismantle the traverse on which the box mounts and the distributor rest. First, we drain the old oil from the automatic transmission, unscrew the drain plug with a 17 head:

We substitute the container where the mining will merge. We also drain the oil from the box radiator, for this we disconnect these hoses:

It is convenient to remove their clamps using round-nose pliers. Unscrew 2 bolts securing the traverse on the left and right sides:

Using a 14-point head, unscrew the 2 nuts for securing the traverse (marked in red):

We substitute the stop under the transfer case and unscrew the remaining traverse mountings on the left and right sides:

The pallet is released, now we unscrew all its bolts around the perimeter using a 10-head:

Use a screwdriver to undermine the sealant and remove the pallet. Unscrew the automatic transmission oil filter:

It sits on two bolts, one in front, the other in the back. Remove the filter. We clean the pallet itself, the magnets and its seat. We have a new filter from NAKAMOTO, catalog number F-040006, complete with a gasket on the pallet. We install it in place. We install the pallet gasket and put it in place, we do not use the sealant. We put the traverse in place, while the bolt threads are lubricated with copper grease.

We put the funnel in the box dipstick, fill in new oil, we have it the original ATF SP3, the catalog number of the 4 liter canister MZ320216 and the 1 liter canister MZ320215.

We start the car, run it in all modes. For example, at first we had an overflow, then after the run, the probe, on the contrary, showed underfilling.

Video changing the oil in the automatic transmission of the Mitsubishi Pajero automatic transmission:

Backup video how to change the oil and filter in the automatic transmission:

An automatic transmission (automatic transmission) is the main element of the vehicle's transmission, transmitting torque from the engine to the wheels. It consists of two main parts: a torque converter clutch, which acts as a clutch, as in cars with a conventional manual transmission, and a multi-stage gearbox, which automatically changes gears depending on the engine speed.

The transmission of torque from the engine crankshaft to the gearbox is carried out in a fluid coupling by creating a flow pressure of a special ATF transmission fluid (oil), poured into the automatic transmission case. Untimely replacement of automatic transmission oil or its insufficient level leads to rapid wear of the mechanical parts of the gearbox and necessitates costly repair of the entire gearbox.

Checking transmission fluid (ATF)

Checking the state of ATF fluid and its level in the automatic transmission is carried out at each scheduled maintenance of the car, as well as in cases of indirect signs of faulty operation of the box, including:

• increase in time when moving the automatic transmission handle;
• unclear or difficult gear shifting;
• jerks and delays when changing gears;
• the smell of burning oil in the cabin.
• shocks when changing gears while driving
• the engine "roars", the car does not run

The oil level in the box is checked visually according to the marks on a special dipstick. In this case, the automatic transmission handle must be in the neutral position "N" or "P", depending on the car model. If an insufficient level of ATF fluid is found in the box and if there are no foreign impurities in the oil and darkening of the color, it is topped up, and it is imperative to add fluid of the same brand and manufacturer.

Complete oil change in automatic transmission Mitsubishi Pajero

A complete oil change of the Mitsubishi Pajero automatic transmission, according to the resource established by the manufacturer, should be carried out with a mileage of 90 thousand km. However, such a need may arise earlier, which is due to the specific operating conditions of the car and can be determined by visual inspection of the condition of the oil on the dipstick when checking its level. Dark color, burning smell and / or presence of metal shavings and other impurities in ATF-fluid requires urgent replacement.

The usual process of a complete oil change in an automatic transmission takes 2-3 hours and is carried out as follows:

1. the car is placed on a lift;
2. the lower automatic transmission protection shield is dismantled;
3. the drain plug of the box crankcase is unscrewed, through which the oil flows into the substituted container;
4. the automatic transmission longitudinal beam is unscrewed and the crankcase is removed;
5. the inner surface of the crankcase is cleaned of old oil residues, dirt and deposits;
6. the internal automatic transmission filter is removed, washed with a special solution or completely replaced with a new one (depending on the specific design of the box);
7. the crankcase, attachment beam and automatic transmission protection are installed in place;
8. the required amount of ATF fluid of the corresponding brand is poured into the box;
9. the car starts and runs for 5-10 minutes;
10. with an interval of 5 seconds, the automatic transmission selector knob switches each speed (P.R.N.D.) 2 - 3 times.
11. the oil level is checked on the dipstick and corrected if necessary.

In our auto center, the oil change of the Pajero automatic transmission is carried out using a special automatic installation heshbon ho-211, with the help of which the box is thoroughly flushed without removing the crankcase, while all internal deposits and residues of old oil are removed from it. This reduces the duration of the replacement procedure to 20-30 minutes.
This unit is connected to a container with a new ATF liquid and is connected to the gearbox lubrication system using special adapters. After putting it into operation, it automatically flushes the box and completely replaces the oil, while controlling the completeness and quality of the replacement.

A feature of the automatic transmission of Mitsubishi Pajero cars is their high demands on the quality of the oil to be poured, therefore, it must be replaced with ATF-fluid brands strictly recommended by the manufacturer in a specialized auto center using high-quality consumables and high-tech modern equipment.