Drivers change the disks of their car in several cases. Often the reason for the change is a desire to improve the appearance of the car or to strengthen installed tires. This article will consider the principles of choosing cast light-alloy wheels, the parameters of the wheel that you need to focus on when choosing, the basics of installing parts and the rating of the best manufacturers.

Alloy wheels (cast)

Almost all light-alloy parts are made of aluminum or alloys based on it. They have both advantages and disadvantages.

Important! When choosing car rims, purchase two identical sets at once. This will save you from having to look for an identical model in case one of the disks becomes unusable.

Benefits

Fashion trends in the automotive industry are pushing motorists to buy light-alloy products.

1. They can be cut to almost any desired shape, unlike heavy and difficult to form stampings.
2. They are lightweight and therefore much easier to install.
3. Precision molding ensures perfect tire balancing after installation.
4. The high vibration resistance guarantees a long service life, even when driving on bumpy roads.
5. The corrosion resistance of cast units is much higher than that of stamped ones. In addition to applying several layers of protective varnish, they form an independent oxide film.
6. Thanks to their high thermal conductivity, they protect the braking system from overheating.

disadvantages

They are mainly due to the physical properties of aluminum alloys:

1. Cast products cannot be repaired after impact. Unlike stamped parts, which are dented, cast parts are brittle and more likely to crack than bend.
2. Due to the fact that most often it is required to replace one damaged disc, the car takes on an unprepossessing appearance. Finding a new disk identical to the damaged one can be quite difficult.
3. In winter, the use of light-alloy products leads to their corrosion and cracks due to interaction with anti-ice reagents.
4. Their high cost scares off many potential buyers. In addition, the car market is full of low-quality fakes, which an inexperienced car enthusiast cannot distinguish from the original.

What disk parameters should be considered when choosing

There are many nuances in the selection of this car part. Check with the seller not only the material of manufacture, but also the exact parameters of the mounts and holes of the discs.
For those who are interested in how to choose the right product, you need to navigate the parameters discussed below.

Did you know? The first automobiles in human history appeared in the 1760s. They worked on steam and could not carry significant loads. The speed of such cars reached 15 km / h, and their appearance was extremely unsightly.

Material

Most often, for the production of these parts, aluminum is used with inclusions of silicon for additional strength of the alloy. Another possible option is magnesium interspersed with aluminum for greater ductility.

Aluminum is less resistant to impacts, but it is highly resistant to corrosion, even without additional coating. Magnesium belongs to light and strong alloys, it withstands impacts better, therefore it is considered to be of higher quality. The magnesium alloy oxidizes much more strongly, therefore it must be covered with a large amount of protective varnish.

Diameter

In order for this part to be installed reliably and for a long time, a large number of holes for fasteners are made in it. It is necessary to focus on the diameter of both holes and circles.

Departure (ET45)

This is the distance between the axis of symmetry of the part and the place of its attachment to the wheel. Must meet standards down to the millimeter. The accuracy of this parameter affects the life of the suspension and the stability of the wheel under lateral loads. Installing parts with a reduced parameter gives the car a sporty look and at the same time increases bearing wear.

What is disk flyout or ET: video

Mounting hole (PCD)

PCD is the diameter of the circle into which the centers of the mounting holes fit. Check this indicator on the details with the indicator of the wheels of your car in its technical passport. Also make sure that the number of mounting holes on the parts and on the wheels of the vehicle is the same. It is best to do this before purchasing parts.

Rim diameter at disc center (DIA)

This is the size of the hole used to mount the hub. The discrepancy of this parameter is possible only in the larger direction relative to the disk. Many manufacturers produce parts with intentionally large bore holes and sell centering rings as a set. These rings slide over the hub and increase its diameter to that of the disc.

Important! The parts market is filled with low quality fake discs. If you are new to the automotive industry, go shopping with a more experienced friend, or go to a certified car showroom for the products you need.

Other nuances

When buying, be sure to consider the mounting diameter. It is designated by the letter R, the number indicated next to it means the size of the circumference in inches. The circumference of the part and the wheels must match perfectly. There is an allowable discrepancy within which the vehicle can go for suspension. Excessive divergence damages not only the suspension, but also the mechanism as a whole.
Also pay attention to the fasteners. Short bolts will not be able to fix the disc securely enough, while long bolts after screwing in will scratch the inner elements of the wheel. Also, the shape of the fasteners must match the shape of the fastening holes.

Replacement and installation of alloy wheels

The installation process for these parts is not difficult, but it requires special technical equipment. A car service worker removes old discs and puts new ones on the wheels using a special mechanism. Then he verifies the correspondence of fasteners and holes, installs the disc on the hub. It will not work to carry out installation or replacement on your own in your own garage, even if you have the proper skills.

Rating of firms and manufacturers

Since you should choose rims based on quality, not price, the following rating presents the best manufacturers of reliable car parts:

• A German manufacturer, the product range has models for every taste and need. Parts are considered the most reliable and durable, coated with a special compound against corrosion. They regularly undergo crash tests and show strength 60% higher than indicated;
  
• ... An Italian company that guarantees impeccable style, a wide range of parts and the use of the latest technologies in production. Wheels of this company are used in cars of Formula-1 pilots, show a high coefficient of strength even on rough roads;
  
• AEZ... German manufacturer, a subsidiary of the ALCAR holding. Produces ultra-light parts of various dimensions. It is known for its dirt-repellent treatment of all products and the homogeneity of the alloy structure. Has a quality certificate from an independent laboratory;
  
• DOTZ... A German manufacturer that is developing with a sports audience in mind. Uses colored stripes in the design of details. All discs feature a quirky, modern design, with a smooth acrylic finish. The company's motto is strength and reliability;
  
• ... A German company that produces relatively cheap parts of impeccable quality. The discs are self-cleaning, suitable for use in the winter season;
  
• Enkei... Japanese company that supplies parts for Nissan and Mitsubishi. The discs are strong, have a varnish anti-corrosion coating, practically do not need balancing;
  
• ... A Turkish manufacturer that produces quality and inexpensive copies of original discs. Does not require adjustment, the diameters of the mounting holes and elements are always the same;
  
• Kosei... Japanese concern supplying Toyota car manufacturer. The products are marked with the International Quality Certificate as reliable, durable and durable. It is made of light alloys, looks like forged products;
  
• ... Russian company located in the Krasnoyarsk Territory. Delivers parts for Volkswagen and Ford concerns. Differs in laconic design, is in demand in the domestic and European markets as quality products with low prices. The details are somewhat heavy in relation to Asian models;
  
• ... German-Russian production, products have state certification. The lineup includes more than 400 sizes and 60 types of designs. KiK gives a lifetime warranty for their products and a year and a half for anti-corrosion coating.
  

Did you know? Nowadays, electric vehicles are used on a par with cars in which a combustion engine is installed. Their story began in the 1820s, when Hungarian inventor Istvan Anjos made a prototype metal toy driven by the power of an electric motor he invented.

The choice of alloy wheels for a car is an easy task for those who are well versed in the products of various companies and know how to distinguish original products from fakes. When buying discs, focus on the manufacturer, giving preference to brands with a worldwide reputation. Also pay attention to the material from which the parts are made and their technical parameters, which must exactly match the parameters of the car wheels.

How to choose the right discs: video

If your car has cast alloy wheels, you will probably be interested to know how and from what they are made. The technology for making alloy wheels is much more complicated than it might seem at first glance. Everything matters: the choice of alloy, temperature, methods of machining and much more. / P

Auto discs start with metal

Reading reviews about alloy wheels, you probably noticed that the products of some brands cause admiration, while others - a surge of negativity. The quality of the base of future wheels depends largely on the alloy composition. Most brands produce alloy wheels from durable aluminum alloys with the addition of other metals. For low-cost models, a silicon-doped alloy is usually used, such as g-AlSi10 / 11 or g-AlSi7. They tolerate heat treatment well and exhibit relatively good resistance to mechanical stress. For higher quality wheels, the alloy composition is slightly different: the basis is still aluminum, and magnesium or titanium are used as additives.

How it's done? At the initial stage, the metals in the form of ingots are sent to the furnace, where they are heated to a melting point of 600-700 degrees Celsius. The molten alloy is then poured into a mold. However, not everything is so simple, because manufacturers use various technologies.

Casting methods

To obtain a casting, a plant can use different casting methods:

• gravitational (in a chill mold);
• with back pressure.

The choice of method depends on the alloy and on the estimated cost of the discs (for the budget category, less expensive options are often used). Each method has its own set of advantages and disadvantages. If gravity casting is used, the machines are cast into molds with an aluminum alloy at normal atmospheric pressure. After cooling, a workpiece with a uniform fine-grained structure is obtained. For magnesium discs, they try to use other methods, since the metal has to be heated to higher temperatures, and the quality is not too high during the cooling process.

When casting under low pressure, as the name implies, it is necessary to create a rarefied atmosphere. This requires additional costs, but pays off: less metal is required, and the castings are 10-15 percent stronger and almost twice as plastic, which directly affects the further processing and characteristics of the wheels.

An even more advanced method is considered to be back pressure casting. This time, gas pressure acts on the workpiece, which leads to the compaction of the alloy and a decrease in the amount of scrap. Discs made by this method are 5-10% stronger than those made under low pressure. In addition, the technology allows you to shorten the casting time.

Testing

The next step, which is indispensable, is quality control. In modern enterprises, it is carried out automatically. Special equipment detects voids and cavities, checks the density of the workpieces, determines violations of the specified dimensions. If a defect is found during the verification process, it is sent for melting, so that the percentage of waste is quite small.

In some cases, the discs go through a hardening stage to become more hard. Heating and cooling is carried out several times, and the temperature range during quenching is from 150 to 200 degrees. However, this operation can impart brittleness to the alloy, so that upon strong impact it will not bend, but crack or burst.

Final finishing

The surface of the workpiece is very different from the finished product, so it is necessary to remove all unnecessary from the surface. For this, future discs are turned on special machines. The cutters shape the blank, after which the quality control is repeated.

Further depends on the chosen design. Some models are polished, others are matted using chemical or mechanical treatment. Individual brands that produce colorful, bright wheels for tuning include another operation in the process: painting. In modern factories, polymer powder paints are commonly used, which form a durable and uniform coating on the knitting needles or decorative cap. Then comes the turn of the last check, after which the rims are delivered to the finished product warehouse, and later sent to official dealers who distribute them to shops.

1. What needs to be done?

Choose the right rims for the existing car, along the way, having dealt with all the necessary parameters.

2. What parameters of the disk should be considered when purchasing?

Regardless of what kind of car you have, when choosing new wheels, you need to consider the following parameters:

• disk type;
• mounting (or landing) diameter;
• the number and diameter of the location of the mounting holes (PCD);
• disk width;
• disk departure (ET);
• diameter of the central (hub) hole;
• the shape of the mounting holes;
• the presence of humps.

Let's make a reservation right away: if by this moment you have lost the desire to deal with all these parameters, when choosing disks, simply use the selection service for a car in large online stores. There, you can simply indicate the model of your car and get discs that are guaranteed to fit it in all respects. Well, if the determination to find out everything is still with you, then let's get down to it.

3. Disk type - what they are

All discs are generally divided into three types according to the type of manufacture: stamped, cast and forged. The issue of choosing a specific type is a topic for a separate material, but here we will highlight the main differences.

Stamped discs - the cheapest: these are the same wheels that you see on the basic trim levels of budget cars, and they are usually covered with plastic decorative caps. They are made of steel and painted with enamel. Among their advantages, in addition to the lowest price, is high maintainability. The fact is that stamped discs do not break when struck, but crumple, and later they can be easily repaired. The main disadvantage of such wheels is their high weight and lack of design: this is a purely functional product.

Alloy wheels compete with the stamped ones in popularity. Such discs are made not of steel, but of a lighter alloy - usually aluminum. Thanks to the manufacturing technology, alloy wheels can have a wide variety of shapes, which, together with a lower weight than that of "stamps", makes them popular. Among the disadvantages of such wheels, one can mention a higher price and lower maintainability: alloy wheels do not crumple under a strong impact, but crack. Of course, the technology of welding repair and rolling has long been mastered, but it is impossible to guarantee the preservation of the original properties after repair.

Forged wheels - the highest quality and most expensive option. They are made by hot die forging, which provides the best internal metal structure and, accordingly, the highest strength at the lowest weight. The downside of this method is the low prevalence of products and the high price.

In addition to the above three types, there are also so-called prefabricated discs - but this is already exotic, and we will not touch on them. In general, for the average car owner, the choice is between inexpensive but boring stamped wheels and more expensive and beautiful alloy wheels.

4. Mounting (landing) diameter

This is an obvious parameter: the diameter of the disc's circumference in inches. Typically, it is designated with the letter R: that is, the R 17 disc is 17 inches in diameter.

Note especially: the letter R itself does not refer to the diameter and came from the tire parameters, where it is also mistakenly used in the meaning of "radius", in reality it means the rim diameter of the tire. In the case of the R tire, this is the marking of the radial structure of the cord, but for the disc, this marking is actually not relevant. However, the erroneous "radius" in the meaning of "diameter" and the accompanying R are so ingrained into speech that most sellers and services for selecting disks are already used by default.

The permitted rim diameters for your vehicle are indicated in the owner's manuals and on stickers in the doorways - along with the recommended tire pressure. When buying tires, remember that their rims must match the rims.

It is not recommended to exceed the maximum diameter specified by the manufacturer: too large discs, in addition to potential geometric incompatibility, change the parameters of the suspension, affecting the wear of the chassis. In addition, the larger the disc and the lower the rubber profile, the less comfort promises to travel on bad roads. However, changes in diameter within the limits specified in the manual, and even an inch in excess, usually go without significant consequences.

5. The number and diameter of the location of the mounting holes (PCD)

This is the so-called "bolt pattern": the number of holes and the diameter of the circle on which they are located (by the way, the English PCD is just the diameter of the circle, "Pitch Circle Diameter"). The number of fixing bolts can be different and increases with increasing mass and speed of the car: usually there are 4-6 of them, but there can be more or less (minimum 3). Most VAZ cars have a bolt pattern of 4x98, with the exception of Oka (3x98) and Niva (5x139.7), as well as new models like Largus (4x100).

The looseness of the disc must be observed: despite the fact that some discs - for example, 4x98 and 4x100 - seem to be interchangeable, this is not so. A seemingly insignificant 2 millimeter difference in the diameter of the circle on which the mounting holes lie will greatly affect the installation: only one of the four mounts will be correctly tightened, and the rest will be offset from the center, causing the wheel to run out. Part of the problem can be solved by using bolts with "floating cone" (about them a little below), but in general, the use of discs with inappropriate bolt pattern should be avoided.

6. Disc width

This parameter is as simple as diameter: it is the width of the disc in inches. It is usually denoted by the letter J in the parameter list: for example, 5.5J is a disc that is five and a half inches wide.

The disc width is usually indicated in the same places as the permissible rim diameter, along with it. In addition to the geometric parameters for a car, the width of the rim is also important when choosing tires: the tire is designed to be used with a rim of a certain width, but with some allowable error.

7. Drive out

The overhang of the disk is the distance from the mating plane of the disk attachment to the hub to the longitudinal axis of symmetry of the disk. Let's put it more simply: the central axis of symmetry is the line dividing the disc in half along the above-described width, and the mating plane is the point where the disc contacts the hub and is screwed to it.

The offset can be positive, zero and negative: if the axis of symmetry lies closer to the car than the mating plane, then the offset is positive, if they are on the same axis, then the offset is zero, and if the axis of symmetry is more distant from the car than the mating plane, then the offset is positive ... In other words, the larger the offset, the deeper the disc sits in the wheel arch, and the smaller it is, the more the disc protrudes outward.

Departure is a rather important parameter: it also directly affects the operation of the suspension and wheel bearings. Incorrect overhang not only increases or decreases the track, but can also cause accelerated wear of the chassis and bearings.

8. Diameter of the central (hub) hole

The diameter of the center hole is a parameter that does not need additional explanation. It is usually referred to as "Dia", "DIA" or "D" in the disc specification list. This is also an extremely important indicator: if the central hole of the disc is less than required, the disc simply cannot be installed, and if it is larger, then centering rings will be required to center the disc on the hub.

Many people mistakenly believe that when installed, a disc with a too large center hole will center itself on the hub by tightening the bolts, but this is not the case. Accordingly, runout and vibration that do not disappear after balancing the wheels is a reason to check the coincidence of the diameters of the central hole of the disc and the hub and the presence of centering rings, if necessary.

9. Shape of mounting holes

The shape of the mounting holes is important in terms of the type of bolts or nuts that will hold the disc. As a rule, bolts and nuts for stamped discs have only a slightly tapered plane that is adjacent to the disc when tightened, and the bolts are also noticeably shorter.

The latter is related to the minimum thickness of the stamped disc. The cast disc is noticeably thicker than the stamped one, and in addition, its mounting hole has a more pronounced conical shape, which requires the use of other fasteners. In addition to the tapered one, the seat of the mounting hole of some discs can be designed for the use of fasteners with a hemispherical and flat working part.

And one more thing: there are bolts with the so-called "floating cone": they allow to partially compensate for a slight discrepancy between the PCD disc and the required parameters. The working conical part of such bolts is made in the form of a separate ring put on the bolt, and is displaced relative to the longitudinal axis of the bolt when tightened.

10. Hump availability

Hump - These are the protrusions on the outer surface of the rim that secure the tubeless tire to the rim. Remember the pops that are heard when a tire is inflated after being installed on a rim? This is the moment of "landing" of the tire: the bead ring of the tire sits between the hump and the rim of the disc. In fact, this indicator is indicated in our material last, because at present it is practically irrelevant: almost all modern wheels are designed for the installation of tubeless tires and have humps.

However, if, for example, you decide to purchase old-age retro wheels, keep in mind that they may well be designed for the installation of exclusively tube tires without having humps. On them, however, you can install tubeless tires, but the issue of its tight fit, as well as safety while driving, will remain open: if the tire pressure is insufficient, the risk of "taking off your shoes" in a turn will be very great.

When the first joyful sensations from buying a car pass, when driving it becomes your daily work, it is at this moment that questions arise before you that you have never thought about before. For example, how to choose the right wheels for your car, specifically - car wheels.

Currently, the market presents a huge selection of car rims. Therefore, what drives and how to choose the right one becomes sometimes an insoluble task.

What discs are made?

There are several varieties: stamped, alloy and forged wheels.

Stamped discs are the most common. They are made of ordinary steel, painted with enamel, usually black or dark gray. The main advantage is that they are easy to repair. Always, with the ability, with the help of a simple tool, it is possible to return the shape of the disc. Of the minuses, they do not differ in graceful forms. You must have a set of stamped discs, usually used together with winter tires.

Alloy wheels are made from lightweight alloys, usually aluminum.

They have different shapes, and are lighter than stamped discs. This explains their popularity among experienced car enthusiasts. However, the high cost and, practically, the impossibility of repair are the disadvantages of this type. We recommend that you buy if you are confident in accurate driving and attentiveness on the road. And it is best used with summer tires.

How to choose an alloy wheel for a car?

The main alloys used in cast wheels are aluminum, titanium, magnesium. Aluminum discs are lightweight, durable, practically corrosion-free. Therefore, they are the most recommended for daily use. Magnesium alloy wheels are highly susceptible to corrosion, therefore it is recommended to use them in warm and dry conditions, or to cover them permanently with an anti-corrosion coating. Titanium discs belong to the elite group, therefore, if you have a prestigious car or a sports car and plan to drive only in the city, choose titanium discs.

Which is better - stamped or cast disc? (video)

The next variety is forged wheels.

Forged disc

The best and highest quality, but also the most expensive type. Manufactured by hot stamping, they have high strength and low weight. Of the minuses - with a strong impact on an obstacle, it retains its shape, but at the same time there is a possibility of destruction of the wheel or cord, which leads to a complete replacement of the tire.

How to choose car rims (video)

How to choose disks for cars by size?

Usually, all information about the standard sizes of wheels and disks is indicated in the instructions for your car. Additionally (depending on the car) it can be indicated on individual parts, for example, the gas tank cap.

Departure size;

The size of the diameter of the hub hole;

Bore size;

Disc mount;

Hole shape for fasteners;

Information on disks (video)

Inches is a classic measure of the width of discs. The value is marked as "J". For example, 5.5J. It stands for 5.5 inches wide. Tires are also marked in inches, each tire has its own disc.

Departureaffects the functionality of the suspension in general and bearings in particular. Incorrect overhang will lead to premature undercarriage wear. Concepts such as positive overhang, negative overhang and zero overhang are used.

Departure calculation (video).

Hub Hole - The place where the disc is screwed to the vehicle's hub. Therefore, it must fit exactly. If the hole is small, the disc will not fit. If the hole is large, balancing with rings will be required.

Disc fit diameter.This is the diameter of the disc in inches. Marked with the letter R.

For example, R18 indicates an 18-inch disc.

We remind you that the required wheel diameters for your car are indicated in the book on the operation of your car.

REMEMBER! The diameter of the tires must match the diameter of the rims.

Location diameter.

Number of mounting holes.

In English - PCD (PITCH CIRCLE DIAMETER). In Russian - "bolt pattern".

The number of fastening bolts can vary from four to six on average. Minimum 3. This is important and must be strictly observed.

Hole shape for mounting discs.

The forged disc bolts are light, tapered. The length is shorter than others. In cast ones, the conical shape is more pronounced, here you need a longer fastener. Some designs use flat and hemispherical fasteners.

Humpy.

Outside the disc, there are protrusions that fix tubeless rubber. Humps are called. They are present on every disc. Except for disks for pneumatic chambers.

Interesting fact.

For more than 100 years, pneumatic tires have been installed on cars, which are inflated with atmospheric air. Internal pressure of the chamber provides rigidity and ease of movement. Until the 80s of the last century, a rubber or rubber tube was located inside the tire. But, starting from the two thousandth years, tubeless ones came to replace chamber tires. Today almost all cars, especially new ones, are equipped with tubeless tires.