An attempt to start the car engine in some cases ends in failure. After turning the key or pressing the "Start / Stop Engine" button, instead of the engine growl pleasing to the ear, you can only hear the hacking hum of the starter rotating the crankshaft. Having received the command to start, the starter turns, but the engine does not start. What malfunctions can cause such a problem, how to identify and fix them yourself. We will talk about this in this material.

To successfully start the operation of an internal combustion engine (ICE) of a car, several processes must interact simultaneously:

• the supply of fuel or air-fuel mixture to the combustion chambers;
• spark formation in the spark plugs that ignites the fuel mixture;
• rotation of the crankshaft, which ensures the flow of fuel into the cylinders, the operation of the fuel pump in carburetor gasoline engines.

When the key is turned, voltage is applied, which starts the operation of a special mechanism - a starter, which consists of a retractor relay and an electric motor. The starter motor rotates the crankshaft, which drives the piston group. At the same time, the components of the fuel system deliver fuel from the fuel tank to the combustion chambers. The atomized fuel mixture ignites from a spark in gasoline engines and from high air temperatures in diesel engines - this is how the general scheme of starting a working internal combustion engine looks like.

Why the engine won't start when the starter is running

Many drivers have repeatedly faced the situation when, after turning the key, the dashboard regularly lights up, signaling the presence of fuel in the tank and a sufficient battery charge, but when the key is moved to the "engine start" position, the starter continues to hum, instead of a couple of turns, rotating the crankshaft, and the engine won't start.

The reasons for this problem lie in the malfunctions of one or more car systems that are responsible for the normal operation of the motor.

Fuel system

Before entering the combustion chamber, fuel passes through several components of the fuel system: the tank, pump, filter, injectors, and the throttle valve. Let's consider all these components in order.

Tank. The fuel level in the tank is measured by a special sensor equipped with a float. In the event of a malfunction of this mechanism, the arrow on the dashboard may indicate the presence of fuel with a completely "dry" capacity - the engine cannot be started without fuel.

Pump... Depending on the type of engine and fuel consumed, the pump can be located in the tank or in the area of \u200b\u200bthe engine group. Designers of injection engines supply their products with an electric pump, the operation of which can be heard in the cab when the key is turned. Carburetor motors supply fuel to mechanical pumps that are driven by a central shaft drive. The reasons why the device does not supply fuel may be wear of the brushes of the electric motor and other parts. Diesel engine failure can also occur as a result of airing of the high pressure fuel pump or a malfunction of the shutdown valve.

Fuel filter. After several unsuccessful attempts to start the engine, it is worth checking the condition of the fuel filter. This component prevents water, dirt and other foreign matter from entering the engine. Untimely replacement of the filter leads to its complete clogging and fuel leakage.

Injectors and throttle valve... In gasoline engines, fuel is mixed with air and enters the combustion chambers as a ready-made mixture. The air flow rate is controlled by the throttle valve, which is driven by a mechanical drive or an electric motor. Malfunction of the damper can cause a failure to start the motor. To supply diesel fuel to a group of cylinders, injectors are used - complex and expensive mechanisms designed to pass strictly metered portions of solarium into the cylinders. Untimely maintenance of a car, the use of low-quality fuel entails clogging and failure of injectors, as well as problems with starting the engine.

Ignition system and electronics

The components of the ICE ignition system include: battery, high-voltage wires, ignition coil, spark plugs. Also in modern cars, an important component of the ignition system is the electronic control unit (ECU), which receives signals from various sensors built into the engine and controls the operation of the vehicle's systems.

Failure to start the engine can be: low battery charge, "breakdown" of high-voltage lines, faulty ignition coil, spark plugs.

We identify and eliminate

To identify the reason why the engine does not start, you need to perform a certain sequence of actions, which depends on the design of the engine itself and the type of fuel used. In most cases, you will need an assistant and a set of tools to check and troubleshoot.

Carburetor

The first step to finding the problem is to check the ignition system. In order to check the health of the ignition coil, you need:

• disconnect the central wire and bring it to any metal surface of the engine by 5-7 mm;
• crank the starter.

If there is no spark, the problem is in the coil. In the case when there is a spark, spark formation on each of the candles is checked. To do this, the high-voltage wire leading to each coil is alternately disconnected and brought to the metal part of the motor.

The serviceability of the fuel pump can be checked by removing the air filter cover and pulling on the accelerator rod. If gasoline enters the float chamber while the throttle valve is fully open, the pump is operational. If fuel is not supplied, check:

• the cleanliness of the mesh of the carburetor sump;
• operability of the fuel filter.

After making sure that the gasoline is in the float chamber, you must try to start the engine again.

Injector

If, when turning the key, you do not hear a quiet hum from under the rear seat, then the fuel pump is not working. The only way out is to replace the part yourself or at a service station. The engine may not start due to lack of gasoline pressure in the fuel rail: the test is carried out by pressing the valve located under the cap. The valve is located on the other side of the rail from the one where the fuel is supplied. If the gas does not go, you need to check:

• fuel filter;
• pressure reducing valve;
• intake mesh.

When you try to start the engine in cold weather, fuel can flood the candles. In some cases, the "drying" procedure helps: the high-voltage wires are disconnected from the candles and the starter is rotated for some time.

Diesel

The main reason for not starting a diesel engine, especially in the winter season, is a malfunctioning glow plug. To identify faulty parts, sections of thick wires and a battery are used: if the candle does not heat up red after being connected to the power source, it must be changed.

The engine also does not want to start when air enters the high pressure fuel pump (injection pump). If the engine is equipped with a “bulb” for manual fuel pumping, turn on the ignition so that the muffler valve takes the “open” position, then pump fuel until air stops coming out of the “return” of the injectors and diesel fuel comes out. If the car is not equipped with a manual pumping drive, and the low pressure pump is electrically driven, it is enough to turn on the ignition for a minute or two.

Why won't the engine start if the starter is turning

Often, motorists complain that the starter is turning, but everything is useless - that is, the car does not start for a long time, after parking or stopping (on a cold or hot engine). At the same time, while driving and at idle speed, the car, as a rule, behaves normally, that is, there are no signs of a malfunction.

You can solve this problem by going to the nearest car service, or try to deal with it yourself. In order to figure out as quickly as possible why the starter turns, and the car, nevertheless, does not start, it is necessary to check the car systems, in the following order:

• We check the performance of the spark plugs (how this is done is described here);
• We diagnose the condition of both fuel filters;
• We check the battery: for the charge level and for the oxidation of its terminals;
• We check the throttle valve for operability and clogging (how this is done is described here).

There are different cases: sometimes the car starts, only after several turns of the ignition key, for example, from the fourth or fifth time. At the same time, the starter turns. And sometimes the car won't start at all, and fills up the candles. Cases are different, but you should look for a malfunction in the described order.

Of course, the frequency of occurrence of a particular malfunction, on different brands of cars, may be different. Therefore, if you have already encountered the same problem several times in which the car starts up with difficulty or does not start at all, then you need to start by checking the node that comes under suspicion. If everything is in perfect order with him, then we advise you to return to the above verification procedure.

Major malfunctions due to which the car will not start

In the event that the car does not start, as before - from the first turn of the ignition key, or refuses to start at all, and the starter turns, then the reasons for such a malfunction may be as follows:

• Failure of fuses located in the mounting block, which, in turn, is hidden in the dashboard;
• Battery breakage, zero charge or oxidation of contacts;
• Broken switch responsible for ignition;
• Corrosive processes affecting electrical parts of the car, for example, the starter;
• The ignition coil has broken, due to which there is no spark;
• Condensate constantly collecting in the engine compartment;
• Failure of various parts of the fuel supply system.

Starter malfunction

The most common cause when the starter turns and the engine does not start is a malfunction of the starter itself. In this situation, you need to know how to check the starter and, if you want to do it yourself, how to replace it.

In all modern imported cars, as a rule, a starter failure occurs due to the fact that the necessary lubricant has simply disappeared in it (it just worked out), or the internal parts of the starter are heavily contaminated. To correctly diagnose the condition of the starter, you need to dismantle it, clean it (removing all dirt and remnants of old grease) and lubricate it again.

Engine overheating

Engine overheating is an equally serious malfunction that prevents the car from starting. Causes of engine overheating

The car does not start, but the starter turns

A faulty starter motor is one of the most common reasons why a car's engine won't start. However, in practice, it is often found that the starter turns, but the car still does not start. What is the reason for such a whim and what needs to be done to eliminate the malfunction? It is to these questions that we will provide you with answers today.

Often there are situations when the starter turns, but the car does not start the first time. Of course, it is absurd to consider such a machine to be serviceable. The first thing to do is go to the service station and find the cause of the malfunction. If the starter turns, and your car engine still refuses to start, we advise you to check:
1. Fuel system... Sequentially, starting with the fuel pump and ending with the carburetor / injector, check the fuel system. If, when you turn on the ignition, you do not hear the work of the fuel pump motor, then here it is - the root of all evil. At best, you can do with replacing its fuse, at worst, replacing the unit itself is inevitable.

2. Fuel filter... We think it's superfluous to talk about the low quality of fuel and the presence of all kinds of impurities in it, because it is not a secret even for a novice car enthusiast. As a result, the fuel filter becomes clogged, the engine does not supply enough gasoline and refuses to start.

3. Ignition system... Pay attention to the high-voltage coil and ignition distributor first. Look to see if the candles are filled, because it is often because of this that the engine starts to be capricious. Unscrew the candles and check to see if there is a spark on them. If there is no spark on the injection car, then you will have to replace the ignition module, if the car is carbureted, then you should check the ignition coil. Do not overlook the distributor, the simplest thing is to inspect its lid, there should be no cracks or other defects on it, a spring-loaded graphite rod should flaunt on the lid inside.

4. Throttle valve... A clogged throttle valve, like a clogged fuel filter, often causes the engine to fail to start when the starter motor is turning.

5. Battery and its terminals... A dead battery and oxidized terminals are other popular reasons for preventing a car from starting.

6. Wiring... It is obvious that breakdowns in the car's wiring can also cause the car to fail to start.

Often, after checking the indicated units, it is possible to establish the reason why the engine does not want to start with a working starter. However, the described is often not enough, then it is necessary, as they say, "to drip deeper". The list of reasons why the engine may refuse to start with a torque starter can be supplemented with the following:
Faulty defective ignition switch... Turn on the headlights, if they have dimmed or even gone out when you try to start the engine, then the reason for the car's refusal to start should be looked for in something else, but not in the defective ignition switch.

Breaking the integrity of the fuses... We will not be cunning, very rarely a car stops starting due to the indicated reason, but you should never write it off.

Corrosion on any electrical component, especially at the starter.

No spark from the ignition coil... The problem is solved by replacing the failed coil with a new one.

Condensation under the hood... Yes, do not be surprised, but sometimes, due to excessive moisture under the hood, the engine may refuse to start.

It is possible to search for the cause of engine failure to start according to the algorithm proposed above only when the starter turns smoothly, without jerking. Otherwise, problems with the starter itself can become the basis for the whim of the motor. In particular, sometimes jerks in the operation of the starter indicate insufficient contact of the contacts, this may be due to wear of the starter brushes, oxidation of the contacts of the electric drive or terminals. If the standard starter was replaced quite recently, and now shows its character, then, perhaps, the reason is poor-quality wiring installed on the starter during assembly.

As you can see, there are quite a few reasons for engine failure to start with a torque starter. Of course, you can define them yourself by following the advice above, but if you doubt your abilities, we recommend asking for help from the workshop masters, who face similar problems in their practice almost every day. When contacting real professionals, you can save time and nerves, and sometimes money.

Love your car and take care of it! If your iron friend began to be capricious, then do not postpone a visit to the car service.

What to do if the starter turns but the engine does not pick up and the car does not start?

What to do if the starter turns but the engine does not pick up and the car does not start?

Good day! We continue talking about the problems of starting the engine and possible causes. It's no secret that difficulties of this kind are always an unpleasant and unforeseen surprise for any driver. Surely each of us had to witness a situation when the car does not start, the starter turns but does not grasp. Let's try to figure out why this is happening in order to have an idea of \u200b\u200bhow to behave in such a situation. The fact that the starter is spinning well already means your battery is healthy. Read how to check the battery status here.

Not a single car engine is insured against such a situation. And it doesn't matter what the temperature is outside the cabin. Let us analyze sequentially what to do for different types of power units.

What to do with the carburetor

In the case of a carbureted engine, it is a little easier to determine the reasons for the difficult start. First, let's try to pull out the choke (air damper control) handle. If that doesn't help, then move on to finding the spark. Poor contact, oxidized or burnt terminals can make it difficult to start the motor. The same goes for poor coil ground contact. If everything is in order with the spark and there is fuel in the gas tank, then there are problems in adjusting the starting device.

The procedure will be as follows:

The injector has its own peculiarities, which appear in case of problems with starting. With these symptoms, you need to start by checking the fuel pump. This could be due to oxidation of the power terminals. After that, it is necessary to check the level of fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Find the side where the fuel supply is connected. On the side opposite to it, a valve is located under the cap. Click on it and expect fuel to run from there. If this does not happen, we begin to check the performance of the fuel pump pressure reducing valve and the condition of the fuel filter.

What could be the reason that I twist the starter, but the injection engine does not start - blog readers often ask me? One of the possible troubles is associated with flooded candles. This often happens in frosty weather. It is required to wait until they are dry enough. The engine can be cranked with the starter by first removing the injector connectors.

Diesel

The most difficult to start a diesel engine. The fuel in it ignites according to a slightly different principle. The chambers in which the diesel fuel burns up are heated to very high temperatures, after which the diesel fuel is supplied to them together with air, which is ignited by compression. In cold weather, it is advisable to heat the air in the cylinders with glow plugs. If this is not done, then the car may start, but it immediately stalls or works unstably until it warms up.

Even the slightest frost or freezing temperature can be enough for starting problems. In a diesel engine, start by checking the condition of the glow plugs. We start by checking the glow plug control unit. For this we need a control lamp. We connect it to the mass and power of the candles, and then turn the key in the ignition lock. In the case of a working unit, the indicator of the control lamp will light up.

Other diesel engine starting problems

Another reason why the starter spins for a long time, but the engine fails to start, may be due to the airing of the high pressure pump. First you need to check if there is power to the kill valve. We turn on the ignition and use the already familiar control lamp for this. When connected, the valve should emit clicks, and their absence may just signal a malfunction.

It remains to check the fuel line - we unscrew either the return line of the injectors, or the plug. If there is a manual pumping option, it should be carried out until diesel fuel flows and the air stops flowing. If bleeding fails, then it makes sense to check the fuel filter, which is often clogged with paraffin from the fuel or ordinary dirt.

Friends, these are the main reasons why the engine may not start even with prolonged torsion of the starter. If you have not yet joined the blog subscriber base, I recommend doing so right now. In the coming days, we will have new useful materials from a variety of areas related to the car and its maintenance. For today we will say goodbye!

The car does not start - the starter turns. Where to dig

The most offensive trouble for a motorist is when his car fails and does not want to start. The reasons for this may be a carriage and a small bogie, now let's consider a case when the car does not start, but the starter turns.

Fault finding directions "the starter turns, but the car does not start."

• gasoline pump;
• carburetor;
• air filter;
• fine filter;
• spark;
• crankshaft sensor;
• timing marks;
• starter.

So, let's look at them in order, starting with the gas pump. If the car does not start, the starter turns, but the operation of the fuel pump motor is not audible - the problem is in it. The sound of its operation should be heard in the cabin. Otherwise - gasoline pump motor burned out or its fuse, which should be checked.

It is possible that the car does not start although the starter turns to blame bad mix... More precisely the carburetor, which this mixture was prepared. In this case, it needs to be cleaned, the jets should be set for injection so that they hit exactly in the center.

It does not hurt to look at the air filter - fortunately, it is not difficult, but to answer the question "why the car does not start when the starter is running" - maybe. At the same time, it is worth checking the wiring of the injectors.

The fine filter can also be the reason that the car will not start. He is quite could get hammered and no longer passes enough fuel, especially if it has not been removed for a long time and has taken a sip of "left" fuel from a suspicious refueling.

If everything above is in order, you should pay attention to the ignition system. That is, check the BB wires, make sure there is a spark on the candle, see the distributor.

Take a look at the crankshaft position sensor too. Due to poor contact in the connector, more than one domestic car refused to start, although the starter was twisting.

Perhaps the battery is simply discharged or the terminals have oxidized on it. Maybe the battery has enough charge to turn the starter, but there is not enough for the engine. It's worth checking the voltage.

It also happens that badly turns the starter, i.e. the bendix does not engage. Then the disassembly of the starter, lubrication, replacement of the retractor and, possibly, the bendix itself, shines.

Such are the main reasons that the car does not start, but the starter turns.

The problem when the rotation of the starter is heard, but there is no transmission of rotation to the flywheel of the engine, sometimes occurs in automotive practice. There may be several reasons for this behavior of the technique. And in order to understand the reasons, you need to understand how the starter-engine bundle works and how rotation is transmitted from the starter to the engine flywheel. And today we propose to sort out such a not very common, but periodically arising problem, when the starter turns, but does not turn the engine.

The principle of transferring rotation from the starter to the engine

Until the engine pistons begin to move and pressure builds up in the cylinders, until fuel is injected and a spark is supplied to the combustion chamber, the engine will naturally not start. In order to set the initial impulse to all processes in the engine, there is a starter. It receives rotation from an electric motor, and then, through a special device based on the principle of an overrunning clutch, transfers the rotation to the flywheel, which, rotating, will make all other components and systems of the engine work.

The starter is started by battery energy. As soon as the ignition key is turned, a retractor relay is energized, which forces the starter gear to engage the flywheel teeth. Rotation is started at the same time. The starter gear starts the engine flywheel rotation, and all processes are started to start it. As soon as the flywheel rotation speed reaches 50-100 rpm, (namely, such revolutions are enough to start the engine), the overrunning clutch is triggered and the gears are disengaged. As soon as this happens and the ignition key returns to its original position, the rotation of the starter stops.

What can affect the fact that the starter does not start the engine

The reasons can be very different, and they can be connected both with the problems of the overrunning clutch (bendix), and with the operation of the retractor relay, and the problems of the teeth, both the drive gear and the teeth of the driven gear of the flywheel. There may be problems with the wiring that triggers the solenoid relay. All these problems lead to the fact that when the starter is started, rotation is not transmitted to the engine flywheel, although it is clearly audible that the starter is spinning.

If the solenoid relay does not work, this can also be the reason for the inoperative starter. But it cannot happen that the relay does not work, but the starter is started. The relay switching system is connected through a limit switch with the starter switching system, so if the relay fails, the starter does not start at all.

Gear teeth

One of these reasons for not starting the engine is a problem with the teeth of the overrunning clutch gear. The gears have lost their original geometry or simply worn out due to their long run. Because of this, they do not mesh with the flywheel teeth, and of course no torque is transmitted.

Gear wear is a natural process. But the acceleration of this process can be influenced by a variety of factors, including the illiteracy of the driver himself. Gears can wear prematurely if they do not fully engage during certain starting cycles. This may be due to incorrect operation of the relay, oil that has become thicker if the weather is cold outside, prolonged cranking of the starter when the engine starts.

Ultimately, the wear becomes such that the clutch of the teeth is completely absent and you can start the starter as much as you like, but the clutch will not appear, and only the characteristic hum of the starter will be heard, without any consequences.

The teeth can also wear on the flywheel. And this problem is much more serious, primarily financially. If the gears are worn out, you can buy a new bendix. And it is quite possible to install it yourself, even with minimal experience. But you will have to tinker with the flywheel gear: first remove it, then reinstall it. Yes, and all this is not so cheap.

Broken fork

Another breakdown that will prevent the starter from starting the engine is a fork breakage, which pushes the bendix gear towards the flywheel crown. In this case, the relay will work, it will be heard how it will click, but the drive gear will not move, and the starter will rotate, but without transferring torque to the engine flywheel.

Driving gear misalignment

The drive gear of the bendix may take the wrong position and not fully engage with the gear of the flywheel if the spring of the bendix, which supports the gear, is deformed. The edges of the drive gear teeth, only the very edge will mesh with the driven gear. And in this state it will rotate, but high-quality engagement will not occur, and the sound of metal scraping against metal will be heard.

If you continue to hold the position of the ignition key in this state of the gears, then the teeth of the bendix gear or flywheel teeth will surely be cut off or broken, which is even worse.

Power problems

It may happen that the starter motor, when rotating, cannot accelerate the flywheel to the required 50 rpm to start the engine. By the sound you can hear that the starter is rotating far from the intended speed. This can happen if there are problems with the starter brushes, there is a breakdown in the wiring, or some other problem in the power supply. In the end, the terminals of the battery can corny oxidized, as a result of which there will not be enough voltage to unroll the stator armature to the prescribed speed.

What should you do if the starter motor turns but does not turn the engine?

It all depends on the sounds that are heard when the starter is running. If crackling and metallic sounds are heard, then almost certainly the problem lies in the condition of the drive and driven gear. In order to check this, the starter is removed and the condition of both gears is visually checked.

Gear wear is visible, as can be seen broken teeth on gears. If the starter gears are worn out, the entire assembly changes. If there is no wear, then the reason lies somewhere in the middle of the node. It can be anything - a broken fork or a cracked bearing. For a more accurate diagnosis, the starter is checked in the workshop and only after the conclusions of specialists is it repaired (if possible) or changed.

Various malfunctions that a car owner can expect when starting engines happen quite often. It is often expressed like this, got into the car, turned the key in the ignition and the starter turns, but the engine does not start. What to do, how to be. Such a malfunction is quite difficult to localize, it would be much easier if the starter clicks, but does not turn, then yes, it is clear that it is in it, but sit and guess.

What is a car starter

Let's give a definition to this most important unit in a car - a starter is a direct current electric motor that receives energy for rotation from a car battery, having received a torque, it transmits force to the flywheel of an internal combustion engine, which in turn turns the crankshaft with pistons located on it. There is also an interesting fact - when the starter engages with the flywheel, a certain braking moment appears during the transfer of force and it is at this very time that the starter can take on a current equal to 300-370 Amperes.

The starter turns and the engine does not start reasons

First, let's make sure that our starter is working properly by listening to the sound when we try to start the car. It should emit the characteristic whirring of an electric motor without extraneous creaks and rattles, the sound is sensitive and uniform.

If you notice such signs then the matter is most likely in the starter, and it requires repair, if not, we look further.

Fuel system malfunctions

Perhaps the engine cannot start due to the lack of fuel in the combustion chambers. It may be related

Throttle valve

Also, the reason for the impossibility of starting the engine with a working starter may be a failed or clogged throttle valve.

The damper itself is a valve located in a metal pipe and, by opening or closing, it regulates the pressure in the system from atmospheric to full vacuum.

A special drive controls the position of the throttle valve and, if necessary, it opens and closes it.

Checking the ignition system

If, after the actions taken, the car does not start, then we check the spark on the candles. For this

If the spark does not appear and you have an injection car, then the reason must be looked for in the ignition module

On a carburetor engine, if there is no spark, then we look at the ignition coil

Pull out the central armored wire from the distributor, and keep this wire about 4-6 millimeters from the clean metal surface of the engine, let your friend try to start the car, if a spark between the armored wire and the engine surface has slipped through, then everything is ok., And if it is not there, then most likely your ignition coil is out of order.

It is also not superfluous to inspect the distributor cover for cracks, carbon deposits from the inside, and generally visually check for damage.

Circuit breakers

If these checks did not help and the starter still turns, and the engine does not start, then you should turn your eyes to the fuse box, especially if you are. First, visually inspect it to identify

• Blackening
• Reflow
• Nagara
• Oxidation
• Other defects

Starter clicks but does not turn

Yes, it also happens, it would be more correct to say the starter does not turn the retractor clicks, as a rule these clicks are caused by the starter retractor relay. This relay itself consists of two windings

1. Retractable winding
2. Retaining winding

The very clicking of the starter is caused by a malfunction of the holding winding due to a reduced voltage on it, it turns out that the retraction winding has triggered and pulled in the core and the holding winding is not strong enough and it releases it and at the moment of return of this core a click is emitted

You can even say that the traction relay clicks, not the starter.

• The very lack of voltage on the holding winding can be associated with a dead battery, which will result in clicks and the inability to start the car engine
• It can also be associated with poor weight - check if it contacts well with the metal surface of the car body
• Perhaps the contacts of the traction relay itself are burnt
• If you have a collapsible relay, you can open it and look for damage and oxidation, if not collapsible, then only replacement

You can check the starter traction relay with your own hands using an ordinary multimeter, even the cheapest Chinese will do.

Connect the probes to the starter output, then turn on the ignition and turn the key to the "start" position.

If, during the operation of the traction relay at the output, the voltage drops 2-4 times, then there is a high probability that the power contacts of the solenoid relay burn out

The fact is that the burned-out contacts of the retractor will not give sufficient voltage to hold the traction one, which will cause a click and the retractor will return to its place without having time to start the car engine.

If the voltage at the output of the relay is the same as the voltage of the battery then the relay is OK

The car does not start, the starter does not turn

Also, the reason that the starter does not show any signs of life in general may be a problem with the wiring, perhaps the wire has fallen off somewhere due to oxidation, it may have been gnawed by mice or it simply burned out due to some kind of short circuit. It is worth very carefully inspecting all the conductive elements of the engine compartment. Such seemingly banal may very well be the very reason why the starter of your car does not turn.

The starter turns but does not engage the flywheel

The starter turns to idle, at first glance it sounds extremely strange, but there is also such a phenomenon in the life of car owners. I will say right away this is due to a breakdown of the bendix or in the overrunning clutch, which is the same thing.

If just the bendix is \u200b\u200ba part of the starter that transfers the rotational force of the unwound starter to the flywheel of the engine in order to eventually start the engine.

The principle of operation of the overrunning clutch is that before the starter armature starts to rotate, the retractor relay enters the bendix into engagement with the flywheel crown, and then current is supplied to the starter windings and it starts to rotate the motor crankshaft, as a result, the car engine starts.

Accordingly, if this freewheel is faulty, then there is no talk of any engagement with the flywheel and the motor, accordingly, will not receive a rotational impulse for its start.

Reasons for the starter not engaging with the flywheel:

• Wear of clamping springs and bendix rollers
• The grease has turned into a jelly-like thick mess, which prevents the rollers and springs from pressing the overrunning clutch well into engagement with the crankshaft flywheel
• The teeth on the bendix gear are damaged

Poorly turns the starter with a charged battery

Why does the starter turn badly on hot

There may be many reasons for this, this is what those car owners who, one way or another, have encountered with this phenomenon say

The starter spontaneously turns while the car is moving

It is a rare occurrence when the start of the wrong thing starts to twist while you are driving, for example, at a speed of 120 kilometers, where everything is detailed with photographs and explanations.

DIY starter repair

To repair the starter, we need to dismantle it. This is best done on a lift or car observation pit.

The sequence of actions is as follows

• Disconnect the terminals from the battery
• We unscrew and remove all the wires from the starter and the solenoid relay
• We unscrew the bolts securing the starter to the engine
• We pull our unit out

Next, we take the wires and connect the minus from the battery to the starter case, and the plus of the battery to the contact bolt of the retractor relay. If everything is in order, the retractor relay should push the bendix (gear of engagement with the flywheel) forward, if this does not happen, the retractor must be replaced.

To be worth mentioning its main and common breakdowns

1. Inoperative retractor
2. Worn or seized bearings
3. Failure of conductive or graphite brushes

Based on this knowledge, these nodes are checked primarily for operability.

The closed winding of the starter or armature body is also happy with a common malfunction - here it is advisable to have a tester or even better a multimeter, as well as to have some knowledge of an electrician to detect a short circuit - but, you can check and so - take a wire under a certain voltage, at the end of which the lamp is fixed, one contact of this wire is pressed against the body of the starter, and the second at the output of its windings - if the lamp is lit, then there is a short circuit, which will also manifest itself as sparking on the windings.

If there is a short circuit then either rewind or the case for replacement.

You can also check in the following way - wind the minus from the battery to the starter case, and connect the plus to the bendix terminal and then close the bendix terminal with a screwdriver or a piece of wire, this is the one on which the wire is screwed with the central terminal on the starter as in this photo,
if everything spins and spins, then everything is ok. Just do not forget to hold the starter very tightly at the same time, otherwise it will jump out and fall off the table or from whatever you put it on.

Conclusion

In this post, we examined the problem of why the starter turns and the engine does not start, and we also learned about the most common car starter malfunctions and how to fix them with our own hands. We will be glad to see your recommendations on the topic of this article.

The reasons that does not turn the starter there may be a failure of the solenoid relay, a weak battery charge, poor electrical contacts in the circuit, mechanical failure of the starter, and so on. It will be useful for every car owner to know what to do in the event that the starter does not turn the engine... Indeed, in most cases, repairs can be done with your own hands. Moreover, a breakdown usually occurs at the most unforeseen moment, when it is not possible to use the help of an auto repairman. Next, we will consider in detail the causes of the malfunction and methods for their elimination.

Cases under consideration:

Starter Malfunction Symptoms

There are many reasons for that. However, a starter malfunction can be identified by one or more of the following symptoms:

• the starter does not turn on;
• the starter clicks, but does not turn the engine crankshaft;
• when the starter is turned on, the crankshaft rotates very slowly, which is why the engine does not start;
• a metallic grinding of a gear is heard, which does not mesh with the crankshaft.

Reasons why the starter does not turn

Often the reason that the car does not start and the starter does not rotate the flywheel is discharged battery... This reason is not directly related to the breakdown of the starter, however, before diagnosing this unit, it is necessary to check the battery charge and, if necessary, recharge it. Most modern car alarms blocks the starter circuit provided that the voltage level from the battery is 10 V or less. Therefore, you cannot start the engine under this condition. To prevent this from happening, monitor the battery level and, if necessary, recharge it periodically. Also remember about. However, we will assume that everything is in order with the battery charge level.

Let's consider one particular case ... Owners of a 2007-2008 Ford Focus 2 car may face a problem when the starter does not turn due to an error in the original immobilizer. It is very simple to diagnose this breakdown - for this it is enough to run the battery power directly to the starter. However, it works without problems. As a rule, authorized dealers change the immobilizer under warranty.

The reasons for the fact that the starter does not turn and “does not show signs of life” may be the following situations:

• Worsening or disappearing contact in the starter circuit... This can be due to corrosion or poor wire bolting. We are talking about the main contact "ground", fixed on the body of the machine. It is also necessary to check the "ground" of the main and solenoid relays of the starter. According to statistics, in 80% of cases, problems with an inoperative starter are reduced to malfunctions in the car's electrical circuit. Therefore, in order to fix the problem, it is necessary to revise the wiring, that is, inspect the starter power circuit, tighten the bolted connections on the blocks and terminals. Using a multimeter, check for voltage on the control wire going to the starter, it may be damaged. To check it, you can close the starter "directly". How to do this is described below.
• Malfunction starter solenoid relay... This can be a break in its windings, a short circuit in them, mechanical damage to internal components, and so on. It is necessary to diagnose the relay, find and eliminate the malfunction. You will find more information on how to do this in the corresponding.
• Short circuit in the starter winding... This is a rare but critical issue. It occurs most often in starters that are used for a long time. Over time, the insulation on their windings collapses, as a result of which an interturn short circuit may occur. It can also happen due to mechanical damage to the starter or when exposed to aggressive chemicals. In any case, it is necessary to check the presence of a short circuit, and if it occurs, then the solution will not be repair, but a complete replacement of the starter.

• Problems with contact group of the ignition lock, which may be the reason why the starter does not turn. If the contacts in the ignition lock are damaged, then current does not pass through them to the electric motor, respectively, it will not spin. The check can be done with a multimeter. Check if voltage is supplied to the ignition switch and if it is released from it when turning the key. It is also necessary to check the fuses of the contact group (usually located in the passenger compartment, under the "torpedo" on the left or right side).
• Slipping of the starter drive freewheel. In this case, repair is not possible, it is necessary to replace the mechanical starter drive.
• The drive runs tight on the shaft thread. To eliminate it, it is necessary to disassemble the starter, clean the thread from debris and lubricate it with machine oil.

• Inconsistency engine oil viscosity temperature regime. Such a situation can arise when the oil in the engine in severe frost thickens strongly and does not allow the crankshaft to rotate normally. The solution to the problem is an analogue with the appropriate viscosity.
• Battery discharge... If it is not sufficiently charged, then there is not enough energy to turn the crankshaft with the starter at normal speed. The way out is to charge the battery or replace it if it does not hold the charge volume poorly. Especially this situation relevant for winter.
• Violation brush contact and / or loose wire endsgoing to the starter. To eliminate this breakdown, it is necessary to revise the brush assembly, if necessary, change the brushes, clean the collector, adjust the spring tension in the brushes, or change the springs.

In some modern cars (for example, the VAZ 2110), the electrical circuit is created in such a way that, with significant wear of the starter brushes, voltage is not supplied to the solenoid relay at all. Therefore, when the ignition is turned on, it will not click.

Let's list a few more atypical situations, due to which the starter does not turn on both cold and hot. So:

• Control wire problemthat matches the starter. If its insulation or contact is damaged, it will be impossible to start the engine with the key. We recommend that you revise it. To do this, you will need the help of another person. One of you should try to start the engine with the help of the ignition key, while the other at this time tugs the wire, trying to “catch” the position in which the necessary contact will arise. Another option is to apply a direct “+” from the battery to the mentioned control wire. If the engine starts, it is necessary to look for the cause in the ignition lock, if not, in the insulation or the integrity of the wire. If the problem is a damaged wire, then the best option is to replace it.
• Sometimes in the stator, the starter is peeled off from the housing permanent magnets... To eliminate the breakdown, you need to disassemble the starter and re-glue them to the places assigned to them.
• Fuse failure... This is not a common but likely reason for the starter motor not working and not turning the engine. First of all, we are talking about fuses for the contact group of the ignition system.
• The return spring flies on the starter retractor relay. To eliminate the malfunction, it is enough to remove the indicated relay and reinstall the spring.

Starter clicks, but does not turn

Revision of starter brushes for VAZ-2110

Very often, when the starter malfunctions, it is not this mechanism itself that is to blame, but its retractor relay. It is important to understand that when the ignition is turned on, it is not the starter that clicks, but the mentioned relay. Malfunctions consist of one of the following reasons:

• Failure of the power wire that connects the starter windings and the traction relay. To solve the problem, you need to replace it.
• Significant wear on the starter bushings and / or brushes. In this case, you need to replace them.
• Short circuit on the armature winding. You can check this with a multimeter. As a rule, the winding is not repaired, but a different starter is bought and installed.
• Short circuit or breakage of one of the starter windings. The situation is similar to the previous one. It is necessary to replace the device.
• The fork in the bendix is \u200b\u200bbroken or deformed. This is a mechanical failure that is difficult to fix. The best solution in this situation would be to replace the bendix or a separate fork (if possible).

Does not turn the starter on hot

Starting the engine directly

Sometimes car owners have problems when the starter does not turn "hot". That is, with a cold engine, after a long parking, the car starts without problems, and with significant heating, problems arise. In this case, the most common problem is incorrectly selected starter bushings, that is, having a smaller diameter than needed. When heated, there is a natural process of increasing the size of parts, which is why the starter shaft wedges and does not rotate. Therefore, choose bushings and bearings in accordance with the manual for your car.

Also, in extreme heat, deterioration of contacts in the car's electrical system is possible. And this applies to all contacts - on the battery terminals, the retractor and the main starter relay, on the ground and so on. Therefore, we recommend that you revise, clean and degrease them.

Closing the starter directly with a screwdriver

Emergency starting techniques

When the starter does not click and does not make any sounds at all, the engine can be started by closing it “directly”. This is not the best solution, but in cases where you need to go urgently and there is no other way out, you can use it.

Consider the situation how to start the engine directly using the example of the VAZ-2110 car. So, the sequence of actions will be as follows:

• turn on the neutral gear and put the car on the handbrake;
• turn on the ignition by turning the key in the lock and open the hood, since we will carry out further actions in the engine compartment;
• remove the air filter from its seat and take it to the side in order to get to the starter contacts;
• disconnect the chip going to the contact group;
• close the starter terminals with a metal object (for example, a screwdriver with a wide flat blade or a piece of wire);
• as a result of this, subject to the serviceability of the other components listed above and a charged battery, the car will start.

Then put back the chip and the air filter. An interesting fact is that in most cases the engine will subsequently be started using the ignition key. However, it should be remembered that the breakdown still remains, so you need to look for it yourself or go to a car service for help in order to fix it.

Emergency engine start

We offer you another method that will be useful to you in case of emergency starting the engine. It only fits for front wheel drive cars with manual transmission! The algorithm of actions is as follows:

• it is necessary to jack up the car by hanging out any of the front wheels;
• turn out the suspended wheel all the way out (if the left wheel - then left, right - right);
• wind a towing rope or a strong rope 3-4 times on the surface of the tire, leaving 1-2 meters free;
• turn on THIRD transfer;
• turn the key in the ignition lock;
• pull strongly at the end of the cable, trying to spin the wheel (it is better to do this not in place, but with a slight take-off);
• when the car starts, first of all set neutral gear (you can do this without pressing the clutch pedal) and wait until the wheel will stop completely;
• lower the suspended wheel to the ground.

When performing the described procedure, be extremely careful and take the necessary safety measures so as not to injure yourself or damage the machine.

The described method of spinning the wheel of front-wheel drive cars resembles the method of starting a curved starter (using the crank) used in old rear-wheel drive cars (for example, VAZ "classic"). If in the latter case the starter is unwound with the help of the handle, then in the front-wheel drive it unwinds from the semi-axis on which the raised wheel is located.

Conclusion

The starter is a simple but extremely important mechanism in a car. Therefore, its breakdown is critical, since it does not allow the engine to start. In most cases, problems are related to the car's electrical wiring, poor connections, broken wires, and so on. Therefore, in the case when the starter does not turn and does not start the engine, first of all we recommend that you revise the contacts (main “mass”, relay contacts, ignition lock, etc.).

Often, car owners are faced with a situation when the starter works in its normal mode, and the car refuses to start. Such an unpleasant situation can be taken by surprise at the most inopportune moment. To quickly solve this problem, you should familiarize yourself with the main causes of such malfunctions and adopt the most effective methods of eliminating them.

Why with a working starter, the internal combustion engine may not start

Uninterrupted starting of the engine is the result of the well-coordinated work of all units and systems serving it. Each of them needs systematic care and diagnosis. Nevertheless, even when carrying out all the declared types of services, no one is safe from failures in their work.

So, problems with starting the engine, provided that the starter is working, can be caused by malfunctions:

• ignition systems;
• power supply systems;
• cylinder-piston group.

Ignition system

According to the convictions of many experts, most of the malfunctions occur in the ignition system. In the presented case, it is first of all advisable to check the spark supply. To make sure that the coil is emitting a spark, it is necessary to remove the central armor wire and bring it to the engine ground. If, when the ignition switch is turned in the "st" position, a spark jumps between the wire and the ground, everything is in order.

The next step is to check for sparking at the spark plug electrodes. This procedure is practically no different from the previous one. The candles are in turn brought to the mass, and if a stable spark discharge is traced on each of them, then this problem is excluded.

Difficulty starting the engine can also be affected by spark plug gaps. If they are higher or lower than the set value, problems may arise with the ignition of the combustible mixture, which, one way or another, will affect the effective start of the motor.

If a contact ignition system is installed on the car, which is typical for outdated models, there is a possibility that the problem lies in the contact group. During operation, the contact surface burns out, which prevents the passage of current. In addition, you should monitor the gap between the contacts. It must match the set value.

An important role in this case is played by the distributor drive. Significant backlash in the seats indicates increased wear. Running this unit in this condition can cause severe engine malfunction.

Supply system

During operation, the elements of the power supply system are subject to mechanical wear and clogging. It should be noted that the timely replacement of consumables in this case will significantly reduce the likelihood of failure of the fuel system components.

One way or another, the diagnosis of malfunctions of this kind should begin with checking the fuel pump. If it is equipped with a manual priming mechanism, you can try manual priming. If the pump does not have such a function, then in order to make sure that it works, it should be dismantled. The main working element of the pump is the diaphragm. If external damage to its surface is observed, it will be replaced.

The quality of fuel in the vastness of our vast Motherland leaves much to be desired. In this regard, timely replacement of all filter elements should be carried out. It is possible that poor engine start is associated with a clogged fuel filter.

This issue should be treated responsibly:

• check the mesh elements in the fuel pump, carburetor and fuel tank,
• inspect the fine filter,
• make sure the throughput of the fuel line.

Cylinder-piston group

A worn-out cylinder-piston group also negatively affects engine starting. The key indicator of a working CPG is the presence of a set operating pressure at the time of the compression-compression stroke.

In order to check the compression, you need to use a compressometer. This device is equipped with an indicator with a scale and a tube with a fitting. The latter is screwed in instead of the spark plug. When the engine is started, the pressure gauge records the pressure in the cylinder.

By alternately checking the compression in each cylinder, we can conclude about the degree of wear of the CPG. On average, the compression of a gasoline engine should be about 10 -12 atmospheres.

Checking the ignition system and electronics

Checking the ignition system involves a certain sequence of actions. This step-by-step diagnostic principle allows you to significantly save time and quickly eliminate the malfunction.

This stage involves checking the following components and elements of the ignition system:

• babina;
• spark plug;
• distributor (breaker-distributor);
• distributor condenser.

The ignition coil is used to generate the high voltage required to ignite the working mixture. If she starts to be "naughty", the engine may not start. To make sure that it works, you need to "throw off" the central wire of the distributor and "short" it to the engine weight.

If a spark jumps, the coil is good. If not, the bobbin should be replaced. In most cases, coils deteriorate as a result of normal wear and tear. But, there are times when its "death" occurs after replacing high-voltage wires with non-standard analogs.

If the coil is not in doubt, we will observe the operation of the spark plugs. First, you need to unscrew them and conduct a visual inspection. Particular attention should be paid to the working part where the electrodes are located. If the candles "lead a healthy lifestyle", their surface is distinguished by the presence of a barely noticeable bluish bloom.

If the electrodes are "smoked", the mixture is over-enriched. If the electrode has a white coating, the engine is starving.

After a visual inspection, you need to make sure if the spark is coming from the distributor to the candles. Each candle is brought to the mass of the car at the minimum possible distance.

Scrolling the engine with a starter, a spark discharge should occur in the gap between the electrode and the mass.

Trambler

One of the key ignition mechanisms that affect the effective start of the engine is the distributor.

Diagnostics of its performance is reduced to checking the following elements:

• slider;
• contact Group.

The slider is responsible for supplying a spark to the contacts of the spark plug wires. Therefore, if it fails, the spark will stop supplying directly to the spark plugs. It often happens that a resistor installed in its case burns out. In this case, after replacing it, the malfunction is eliminated.

The contact pair consists of a movable and a fixed contact. Each of them has so-called "pyataks". During operation and external influences, they wear out and characteristic traces appear on their surface, the so-called shells. This significantly reduces the current carrying capacity, which negatively affects sparking. If the degree of wear is negligible, the contacts are cleaned, after which a gap between them is set with a feeler gauge. When they are critically worn out, they must be replaced.

Capacitor

A capacitor is located on the distributor body. It is designed to generate more voltage on the secondary winding of the coil. It won't take much time to check if it works.

To do this, use a conventional 12V car bulb. A lamp is connected to the gap between the coil and the capacitor. If it is on, the capacitor is defective. The lamp does not light up - the capacitor is operational.

Malfunction of the fuel system

Most of the problems of this nature are caused by the untimely replacement of fuel filters. As a rule, as a result of their clogging, the raw fuel flows through the bypass directly to the carburetor or, in the case of an injector, to the fuel injectors.

So, the revision of the fuel equipment and all consumable items should be carried out by checking the filter parts. To do this, it is enough to check the throughput of the fine filter, and also to revise the fuel receiver installed in the car's tank.

If replacing the filters did not lead to the desired result, it becomes necessary to check the following components of the power system:

• gasoline pump;
• carburetor;
• nozzles.

Due to long-term operation, the diaphragm and the fuel pump valve may deplete their resource. Due to the fact that they belong to consumables, in order to eliminate such a malfunction, only their replacement is required.

In the case of the carburetor, the situation is somewhat more complicated. To check its serviceability, you will need to remove at least its upper part. If there are heavy particles in the float chamber, the carburetor needs a comprehensive cleaning. It involves purging its nozzles and channels.

In addition, due to the ingress of foreign particles into the cavity of the shut-off needle, there is a possibility that it has fused. Blowing out the duct with compressed air will solve this problem.

Malfunctioning injectors is often caused by clogged calibration holes.

A clear sign of such a defect is a low spray level of the nozzles. Simply put, the fuel is delivered unevenly, in the form of a jet. In this case, they need to be washed. It should be noted that comprehensive diagnostics of injector operation is performed only at a special stand.

Other motor starting problems

In addition to the above malfunctions, there are a number of other problems. Their appearance may be due to various factors related to the conditions and manner of car operation.

The car may not start due to:

• overheating of the engine;
• unjustified choice of fuels and lubricants;
• lack of fuel;
• clogging of elements of the exhaust system.

What to do if the car won't start in winter

It is fraught with various difficulties. Especially, this applies to car owners, whose cars are forced to spend the winter in the open air.

In order to significantly facilitate engine start at subzero temperatures, you need to adhere to certain requirements:

1. use synthetic lubricants declared by the manufacturer;
2. insulate the engine compartment with special means;
3. use pre-heaters and auxiliary devices;
4. depress the clutch pedal before starting the engine;
5. monitor the health (check the density, level and charge of the electrolyte).

What if the attempts to start the engine in severe frost were unsuccessful? Let's say the battery is still alive. In this case, you need to unscrew the candles and ignite them properly. If they are "smoked", then the owner pressed the gas pedal too hard and simply flooded them. So, the candles are calcined and screwed into the head.

Before starting, "ventilate" the intake manifold by holding the gas pedal in the fully depressed position for a few seconds. We twist the starter and observe the behavior of the engine, while the air damper should be closed by 1/3.

If after a short operation of the starter "flashes" appear, you should not "drive" the starter until you are completely exhausted. The attempt must be repeated after a while, gradually enriching the mixture by overlapping the working chamber of the carburetor with an air damper.

Effective starting of the engine depends on the proper operation of all its life support systems. Each system requires systematic maintenance and repair. Such diagnostic measures will eliminate the occurrence of unforeseen breakdowns and failures and will most favorably affect the operation and start of the engine, regardless of external factors.