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Recommendations for self-change of engine oil in cars "Kia Rio. How to change the oil filter and oil in the Kia Rio engine Kia Rio when it is necessary to change the oil

On the 3rd generation Kia Rio. This is a common car procedure, so every driver can change the oil and oil filter with his own hands on the Rio 3.

What you need to change the oil:

    new oil and oil filter (possibly a new drain plug gasket);

    rag, funnel and container for old oil (at least 4.5 liters);

    oil filter remover, wrenches or ratchet heads for 13 and 17.

When to change, how much and what kind of oil to fill in Rio 3

The Kia Rio 3 oil and oil filter change intervals are 15,000 km or once a year. Given the difficult operating conditions, some drivers prefer to change the oil earlier - by 10,000. There is no harm from this (except for the wallet).

The filling volume of oil, including the filter, is 3.3 liters. Recommended pour oil KIA / HYUNDAI Premium Gasoline 5W20, KIA / HYUNDAI Super Extra Gasoline 5W30, SHELL Helix PLUS 5W30 / 5W40, SHELL Helix ULTRA 0W40 / 5W30 / 5W40 or Exxon Mobil SHC Formula MB 5W30. The oil quality level must be at least ACEA A3 or SL and higher according to API.

Original oil filter number - 2630035503. Analogues: MANN W81180, MAHLE C205, FILTRON P617 and others. Before buying, it is worth clarifying their applicability.

Gasket number drain plug - 2151323001.

How to change oil and oil filter Rio 3

The oil changes on a warm engine - this way it will merge better. To make it drain faster, you should unscrew the filler cap and raise the oil dipstick.

Fill in the same new oil as the engine. If the new oil has a different brand and specification, the engine must be flushed.

The car is installed on a flat surface and jacked up at the front, or driven onto a ramp, overpass, lift, pit. Then you need to remove the crankcase protection, if installed.

Then you need to loosen the drain plug, substitute the container, pull out the plug and drain the oil into the container. Be careful with hot oil - gushing out of the hole can burn your hands. While the oil is draining, it is worth inspecting the drain plug, replacing the gasket if it is damaged. When the oil stops flowing out in a stream, tighten the plug and tighten with a wrench.

Nearby is oil filter, which the also needs to be replaced... A properly installed filter should be unscrewed by hand, if it does not come out, then with a puller. When you unscrew it, a little oil will also run from it.

Fill a new filter one third with fresh oil. Lubricate the sealing gum with it. The new oil filter hand tightens three-quarters of a turn after the rubber band touches the seat.

After making sure the filter and plug are tightly tightened, new oil can be added to the engine. Immediately it is worth pouring in not all 3.3 liters, but about 3 or slightly less. Then screw on the cap and start the engine for a few minutes... You can wait another 5-10 minutes after the engine is turned off for the oil to flow into the pan. And only then check the level with the dipstick and top up so much that it is between the minimum and maximum marks, closer to the upper one.

Engine oil must be replaced every 10,000 km.
For a new car, it is necessary to change the oil after the end of the running-in (after 2500 km) When changing the oil, it is imperative to install a new oil filter (engine ZMZ-4062) or its filter element (all engines). Oil change procedure see subsections 2.3.2, 2.3.2.2 and 2.3.3.3 .

Into the crankcase it is recommended to fill in oil of the same grade as was in the engine. If you fill in another brand of oil, you must first flush the engine lubrication system with the oil of the brand that will be filled in the engine. To do this, drain the old oil, fill in new oil 2–4 mm above the “0” mark on the oil level indicator (dipstick). Start the engine and let it idle for about 10 minutes. Then drain the oil, replace the oil filter or its filter element and fill with fresh oil.

Coolant must be changed once every 2 years or after 60,000 km (whichever comes first). Coolant replacement procedure see subsection 2.4.4... It should be borne in mind that the coolant is poisonous, so it should not be sucked in by mouth when transfusing. When working with coolant, it is recommended to wear protective goggles and not to smoke or eat. If liquid comes into contact with exposed skin, wash with soap and water.

Gearbox oil must be replaced after 60,000 km. Oil change procedure see subsections 3.3.2 and 3.4.2 ... Every 20,000 km, check the oil level in the gearbox and top up if necessary. The oil level in the crankcase must reach the edge of the filler hole. If the drained oil contains metal particles or is very dirty, flush the box. To do this, pour 0.9 liters of fresh oil into its crankcase. Jack up the rear of the vehicle. Start the engine and, engaging first gear, let it run for 2–3 minutes. Then drain the oil and refill with fresh oil. When checking the oil level, you need to clean the surface of the breather from dirt and turn its cap several times to remove dirt that has got under it.

Rear axle crankcase oil must be changed after 60,000 km. The oil is changed in the same way as in the gearbox. After 20,000 km, check the oil level in the crankcase and top up if necessary. The oil level should be up to the edge of the filler hole. When checking the oil level, the breather must be cleaned of dirt in the same way as was done for the gearbox.

Warning

Do not use re-drained brake fluid.

Brake fluid the clutch and brake drives must be replaced every 2 years, regardless of the vehicle mileage. The clutch and brake drives use domestic brake fluids "Rosa", "Rosa-3", "Tom", "Neva" or their foreign counterparts on a non-oil basis, the quality level of which is not lower than DOT-3. Use other brands of fluids, especially petroleum based fluids, prohibited.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic and should not be stored in an open container.

The procedure for replacing the brake fluid is as follows:

1. Remove the brake master cylinder reservoir cover.

2. Remove the rubber protective caps from the air release valves on the wheel cylinders and put rubber hoses on the valves, the ends of which are lowered into glass containers.

3. Unscrew the valves no more than one turn and, pressing the brake pedal all the way down, drain the fluid. Tighten the air release valves as soon as fluid from the hoses stops flowing.

4. Pour the drained brake fluid from the vessels and put them back in place.

5. Pour fresh fluid into the master cylinder reservoir, unscrew all air release valves one turn and, pressing the brake pedal all the way, fill the brake system. In this case, it is necessary to constantly add fluid to the master cylinder reservoir. After clean brake fluid begins to flow out of the hoses fitted to the air release valves, tighten the valves.

6. Bleed the brake system to remove air from it ( see subsection 6.9).

7. Close the brake master cylinder reservoir with a plug. Remove hoses from air release valves and put protective caps on them.

In the same way, replace the fluid in the clutch hydraulic drive.

You can perform this procedure yourself, the only condition is the presence of a viewing hole or overpass.

Choosing oil

But first of all, you need to decide what kind of oil you need to fill in the Kia Rio.

The easiest way is to stop your choice on the brand that is already embedded in the engine.

As a rule, this is Shell Helix Ultra or ILSAC GF-4 (as recommended by the company itself).

But there are other cheaper analogs with which you can save money without losing quality.

For example, Total Quartz, Divinol, ZIC XQ LS or Mobil. Well, if you are very careful about your car, then you can pamper it.

But the main selection criterion is viscosity. Recommended 5W-40, see engine oil classification by.

Mobil Super 3000 5W-40 For Long Life is not a bad option, but see for yourself, it cannot be called cheap.

Choosing an oil filter

If original and not original oil filters for Kia Rio. Nobody has come up with anything better than the original ones. We recommend them.

See the catalog number - 26300 35503 .

And do not forget that you will immediately have to change the drain plug gasket, its catalog number is 21513-23001 .

Oil change procedure

To change the oil, you will need:

  • engine oil and oil filter (new);
  • key for 17;
  • a puller or a special wrench to loosen the tightening of the oil filter;
  • wide roomy basin or other container for draining waste;
  • rags.

Step-by-step instructions for changing the oil and filter.



As we can see, the sequence of work on the oil filter and the Kia Rio is no different from the algorithm of actions on other car brands.

But if you have never done this, then it is better to contact a knowledgeable person or to a car service.

Change engine oil on a car KIA Rio can be at a service station (STO) or independently. This procedure is described in some detail in the manual for the car, and is not particularly difficult. Taking into account the prices for service stations, it is best to change the oil yourself. This will significantly save the family budget.

Usually, do-it-yourself engine oil change on Kia Rio 2011-2017, is no different from the procedure that is carried out at the service station. The recommended frequency of changing engine oil on the Kia Rio is 15,000 km. But in practice, it is better to make a replacement after 7,000-10,000 km. This is not surprising when you take into account the condition of the roads and the urban pace of the car with frequent stops. All these circumstances lead to a rapid deterioration in the quality of engine oil. First of all, the lubricating and cleaning properties of the oil deteriorate, which greatly increases engine wear and reduces its resource. At the same time, when changing the engine oil, you should not forget about changing the oil filter. Oil and filter are always changed at the same time on any car.

In practice, changing the oil on the KIA Rio independently can be done in two ways:

- Vacuum pumping of oil. Vacuum pumping is usually done through the engine oil dipstick hole. This method is good because there is no need for a lift or overpass. The main disadvantage is the need to use special equipment, which is not even available in every service station.

- Draining from the pallet of the car. The second, traditional and proven method for decades, is more reliable, since all waste accumulates in the engine sump. Vacuum pumping is simply not capable of pumping out all the waste oil from the sump.

To change the oil, we need:

  1. Oil filter - 26300-35503.
  2. Engine oil - as a rule, barrel SHELL HELIX ULTRA 5w-30 is poured from an authorized dealer, it is recommended by the KIA plant. But you can buy it in an ordinary four-liter canister. When choosing an oil, it is worth considering what is indicated in the guarantee: 5W-30 oil of SN or SM class (SN- is better, since it is a more modern standard).
  3. Engine oil pan drain plug gasket - 21513-23001
  4. Wrench for "17" for twisting the drain plug.
  5. Flushing oil 3 liters.

Oil change.

The replacement process is carried out on a warm engine, the heated oil is more fluid and is easily drained from the lubrication system.

- After a ten-minute warm-up of the engine, you need to drive into the inspection pit. If necessary, this is not difficult, you should unscrew several fastening bolts. will prevent us when replacing the oil filter. At a certain level of dexterity, it is possible to remove the protection not completely, but to unscrew only two bolts fastening to the subframe.

- Then it is necessary to drain the used oil from the crankcase into a container specially prepared for this purpose. The crankcase plug must be unscrewed very carefully, as the oil is very hot, it is better to use gloves and glasses.

- After the oil has glass, the plug can be changed in two ways, with and without flushing oil:

  1. With flushing oil. Tighten the drain plug after replacing the drain plug gasket and fill in about 3 liters of flushing oil. Run the engine for about 10 minutes and drain the oil again. (There is a way to remove residual flushing oil by repeating the flushing procedure only, using 2-2.5 liters of oil, which you will fill when changing.)
  2. No flushing oil. With this option, we remove the residual waste oil from the crankcase, for this we use a syringe with a curved needle.

The question of the use of flushing oil is in cases where it is not known which oil was filled earlier or a switch to another type of oil is made. In other cases, you can do without using it. Modern engine oils already have detergent and cleaning properties in the required amount for cleaning the engine lubrication system.

- Now you can twist the oil filter for replacement. This can usually be done by hand without using a special tool. Before installing a new filter, pour 150-200 ml of oil into it. Then we carefully wind the new oil filter with our hands. There is enough hand strength to tighten the filter, this will allow you to easily twist it by hand at the next replacement.

If it didn't work out to remove the filter by hand, it doesn't matter if there is a special tool or the old old-fashioned way. It's simple, we take a thicker screwdriver and a hammer, punch the filter through with a screwdriver and unscrew it with this lever.

- After completing all the procedures with the key on "17" we tighten the drain plug, having previously replaced the gasket.

KIA Rio of the 3rd generation is one of the most attractive models for Russian motorists. The main reason is that the machine is fully assembled at a factory near St. Petersburg. This leads to a relatively low price of the car. The availability of spare parts also attracts buyers. Engine oil for KIA Rio can always be found on sale. It looks like this vehicle meets the requirements of most car enthusiasts.

History of the model, equipment

The KIA Rio is a compact front-wheel drive family car. Designed by the South Korean company KIA, this car has been around the world since 2000. In total, 3 generations of cars were produced. The first - from 2000 to 2005, and by the beginning of 2004 the car had gone through a serious restyling. Then they were assembled at the Kaliningrad plant "Avtotor", equipped with a 1.5-liter engine; a wider range of engines was offered for Europe. The checkpoint could be chosen - mechanical or automatic. The body also had two options - a sedan and a hatchback.

The second generation was sold from 2005 to 2009. For Russian motorists, sedans and hatchbacks were assembled only with a 1.4-liter engine. For European consumers, KIA Rio offered a choice of 3 motors from the previous generation of cars. Since 2006, cars have been assembled at the Izhevsk Automobile Plant. By 2009, the model went through restyling again and was released until the beginning of 2011. In addition to Russia, production was launched in Slovakia, China, Indonesia, Ecuador and the Philippines.

The third generation saw the world by 2011. The exterior has changed dramatically, becoming modern and aggressive - all thanks to the famous German designer Peter Schreier. Since that time, the assembly was moved to the St. Petersburg plant. To this day, the car is available with hatchback and sedan bodies. There are two engine options for the KIA Rio - 1.4 and 1.6 liters. There are also two gearboxes - mechanical and automatic. The car has the same platform as the Hyundai Solaris. In addition, most of the parts of these cars are unified, which makes them easier and cheaper to assemble. In 2014, the car underwent a small restyling of its appearance.

Oil fluid for KIA Rio

Information about what exactly is poured into the car on the conveyor is contradictory. Some sources say that initially it was ZIC 5W20, and then for maintenance - Shell Helix 5W20, but all this data is outdated (as far back as 2011). Who has signed a contract with KIA now is their trade secret.

And yet which oil is better to fill? Shell Helix Ultra Professional AF 5W20 viscosity is the best choice for motorists who want to keep their engine without overhaul as long as possible.

The oil composition is completely synthetic, made on polyalphaolefins (PAO). The API classifier assigned it the highest category - SN. The European Association ACEA has assigned classes A1 / B1. The oil fluid is officially approved for Ford vehicles, but this does not prevent its use for other brands. After the car ran a distance close to 100 thousand km and KIA oil of this viscosity began to burn out strongly - you should switch to 5W30 or 10W30 of the same or another manufacturer, depending on climatic conditions.

You should pay attention to such a synthetic product as Liqui Moly Special TEC AA 5W30 of German production, which has many official approvals from Asian manufacturers, including KIA and Hyundai. The composition of the product is truly unique. The additives are selected in such a way that they provide long life to any modern engine. The grease received the highest categories in API classifiers, as well as ILSAC - SN and GF5, respectively.

In addition to the above, you can use engine oils from ZIC, Motul and other manufacturers. By the way, KIA allows the use of 5W30 and 10W30 lubricants for new motors. They do not clearly indicate what the viscosity characteristics should be, they only recommend (see photo below).

When and how to change the grease

Oil change at KIA Rio, according to the regulations, should be done every 15 thousand kilometers. But it is advisable not to use such a long interval, but to change the oil compositions after 8-10 thousand kilometers. This is due to the poor quality of the fuel, as well as the harsh operating conditions for the city, including numerous traffic jams, and the poor condition of highways.

Oil change in KIA Rio will require about 3.3–3.5 liters of lubricant. That is, you will need to buy a 4 liter canister. It will also remain for the driver to fill in a little more in case of grease consumption for waste. This procedure can be carried out independently by preparing the following tools and materials:

Changing the oil in the engine of a KIA Rio car involves a certain sequence of actions that should be followed.

  1. The engine is preliminarily warmed up by a short trip, then the car is placed over a viewing pit or drives into an overpass.
  2. The hood rises, the filler neck for the engine fluid is unscrewed.
  3. At the bottom, if there is protection, it is removed to provide access to the drain plug.
  4. Slightly, but not completely, the drain plug is loosened with a key on "17". An empty container is substituted under it.
  5. You should quickly unscrew the plug with your fingers without dropping it into the container with the working off. You need to do this carefully and carefully so as not to burn your fingers.
  6. You will have to wait for some time until all the liquid flows out of the crankcase.
  7. The old filter is unscrewed with a removable device. You also need to substitute a container under it, since a little grease may leak from the hole and from the filter.
  8. The remaining used oil is pumped out from the bottom of the crankcase with a syringe and a tube.
  9. The new oil filter is 2/3 full of fresh grease. The O-ring is coated with oil.
  10. The new filter is twisted by hand. As soon as the seal touches the body, turn it by hand 2/3 of a turn.
  11. A new O-ring is put on the drain plug, the plug is twisted into place.
  12. Fresh oil is poured through the filler neck. Periodically, it is required to check the level of the filled composition with a dipstick.

Then the engine starts and runs at idle for several minutes. After that, the level is checked with a dipstick. The mark should be halfway between min and max. If lower, you will need to top up a little. This completes the work, you can go further.

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