Many car enthusiasts and owners of used cars are faced with such a problem as smoke when starting the power unit, or at high revs, and they will not understand where it comes from. At the same time, in some cases, the engine smokes with white smoke, or smokes with black smoke. Of course, this is an indication that there are some problems with the caps or piston rings. Below we will talk about what to do when the engine smokes, how to understand the rings or caps are the cause of the smoke in the engine.
The reason for the appearance of smoke in the exhaust pipe
In order to understand the question of why the engine smokes, you need to have an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat happens in it during operation.
A fuel mixture is formed in the combustion chamber, which is compressed by the piston and ignited by the spark from the spark plug. The mixture is fed through the inlet valves, and the spent mixture is discharged through the outlet valves. The pistons have special oil pick-up rings, they are needed in order to collect excess oil on the cylinder walls so that they do not fall into the combustion chamber.
The engine valves also have special seals (caps), which serve to prevent the oil in the cylinder head from entering the combustion chamber. In addition, candles also play an important role, and if they have a weak spark, or the gaps between the electrodes are incorrectly set, then the fuel mixture in the engine will not completely burn out.
Based on this, one can distinguish such reasons as engine smoke.
- Spark plug . If the spark plugs are faulty, that is, they give out a weak spark, or the gaps between their electrodes are set incorrectly, then the fuel mixture does not burn completely, and is removed from the combustion chamber in blue smoke. In the most severe cases, it can be black.
- Piston oil pick-up rings... As mentioned above, the oil pick-up rings perform the function of cleaning the cylinder walls from excess oil so that it does not enter the combustion chamber. They are affected by a powerful frictional force. In the event of their wear, oil enters the combustion chamber and ignites together with the fuel mixture. In this case, black smoke appears. The rings of the engine also perform similar functions, which also take excess oil from the surface of the cylinders and can wear out over time.
- Valve caps... These are oil seals, which are used to prevent the oil in the cylinder head from getting into the combustion chamber, and are made of dense rubber. When it wears out, the lubricant enters the combustion chamber and ignites. This produces white smoke (or gray).
The last two causes of smoke will be discussed below. If a car enthusiast notices the appearance of blue or blue smoke, he needs to pay close attention to the operation of the spark plugs of the power unit and diagnose them, or change them.
Remember that sometimes bad gasoline can cause smoke in the tailpipe. It may contain various additives or additives, which will create smoke of black or other color. This problem usually disappears when refueling with other fuel.
Diagnosis of malfunction of engine oil rings
As mentioned above, if the engine smokes black, then the whole problem is that the piston oil rings are worn out and lubricants enter the combustion chamber.
Ignoring this problem can lead to the fact that the rings will not remove the grease, and therefore, it will constantly need to be topped up. In addition, the rings may become stuck, and they will need to be decarbonized. How to decarbonize rings that have been buried can be found in other publications. But it is better to do this at a specialized service station.
Now let's move on to considering the question of how to diagnose this problem.
There are two ways, the first is to check the compression, which will be described in detail below.
The second is diagnostics when the power unit is running.
In order to determine the problem with the rings, it is imperative to warm up the engine to operating temperature, since this problem appears only when the power unit is running hot.
Then step on the gas pedal, giving standard or increased revs. If black smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe, then the problem is in the rings and they need to be replaced.
How to replace the piston rings in this case. Here you will have to disassemble the cylinder head, remove the pistons, buy a new set of rings and replace them. If the car is of foreign production, then it is better to entrust this work to specialists, since it will be problematic to do this without removing the engine.
It is important to remember that if the problem is in the rings, then the engine will generally not start well after a long idle period.
Diagnosis of malfunction of valve caps
If the engine smokes white, the problem is with the caps. White smoke can also have a bluish tint. Based on this, the car enthusiast needs to urgently change the oil seals on the valves, otherwise he will have a lot of oil consumption by the engine.
Such a problem can be identified by the cold operation of the motor, or during movement.
Let's consider the first case. The car enthusiast should park the car in a garage or other place and wait for the engine to cool down. After that, put in neutral and start the engine, giving revs.
When starting in this way, smoke of white or gray color will tumble from the exhaust pipe. This means that oil enters the combustion chamber through the valve caps.
The second method requires observation from the driver. When the car is moving, it is necessary to accelerate it, then brake with the engine, and press the gas pedal again, giving significant revolutions. In this case, you need to constantly look in the rearview mirror. If white or gray smoke pours down, then you can safely diagnose the malfunction of the caps.
What to do in this case. You can solve this problem in your garage. You just need to remove the old oil seals and replace them with new ones. Such work does not require great skills and even a beginner can handle it.
It is important to remember that if the machine still smokes with the replaced oil seals, then the problem may be in other engine components, so in this case it is better to contact a specialist and carry out professional diagnostics.
Diagnostics using compression
You can identify the above problems with the power unit with special diagnostics using a compression meter. This is a device that measures pressure. You can do this diagnosis in your garage.
To do this, you need the help of a friend and the presence of the device itself.
To carry it out correctly, you need to adhere to the following algorithm. First you need to put the car in the garage and warm up its engine to operating temperature.
After that, disconnect the spark plug of the first cylinder, and insert the compressor there. Using the starter, start the engine for a few seconds (turn the crankshaft), and remember the pressure shown by the device. Next, you need to pour no more than 20 grams of oil into the cylinder chamber, and turn the crankshaft again. If the pressure in the first case is low, and in the second case it rises, then the problem is in the piston rings and they need to be definitely changed.
As you can see, there is nothing difficult in such a diagnosis, but it helps to identify one of the problems of the appearance of smoke.
It is important to remember that a loss of engine power at high rpm or load also indicates that the piston rings are worn.
The reason for the appearance of differently colored smoke from the exhaust pipe may indicate several problems in the power unit. If they are diagnosed on time, then large deviations in the operation of the motor will not appear. If started, then serious breakdowns can occur, and high costs for fixing them.
They are also called valve seals. What are these very small parts for? Their purpose is to prevent oil from flowing from the block head to the working cylinders through the valve stem. By design, the product is a steel sleeve, "wrapped" in rubber with a coil spring. Today, for the manufacture of valve seals, acrylate rubber is used - a durable and reliable artificial material.
Replacing the valve stem seals in a timely manner prevents increased oil consumption and reduced engine performance caused by mixing of the air / fuel mixture and lubricant composition.
Why are valve seals needed and how do they work?
The valve reciprocates due to direct contact with the timing camshaft. When it spins, an oil suspension is created. In this case, the valve periodically enters the area of \u200b\u200bthe combustion chamber, where the presence of a lubricant is unacceptable. The valve stem seals just remove the oil from the valve stem without letting it into the cylinder block.
Over time, they age: the rubber loses its elasticity, the parts become stiff and the lubricating fluid begins to seep into the combustion chamber. In order to avoid excessive wear on the valve stem seals, they must be replaced in time.
Signs of wear on valve seals
If it turns out in time to recognize the failure of these parts, then it will be possible to avoid more serious engine breakdowns (parts of the cylinder-piston group). The main symptoms are:
- Thick smoke with a white or blue tint is visible from the muffler pipe: it appears for a short time when the engine is started.
- Smoke concentration increases when the accelerator pedal is pressed sharply or when gear changes.
- Lubricant consumption increases markedly (more than 1 liter per 1000 km).
- Oiling is found on the spark plugs, they have black carbon deposits. This is due to the fact that when a high pressure is created in the combustion chamber, oil particles are literally squeezed out through micro gaps (0.3 mm is enough) in the candle thread and traces of lubricating consumables are visible even around the screwed in candle.
Wear on the valve stem seals cannot be avoided: these valve timing components operate under increased load. In just one minute, the valve manages to complete 150-1200 "strokes" (strokes). Plus, the products are affected by an aggressive environment: and exhaust gases.
The question arises when to change the valve stem seals? If you bought a new car, then you need to do this after about 50-70 thousand kilometers (on imported cars, the mileage can be 180 or more thousand kilometers).
If the above signs of oil seal wear are ignored, problems with the engine should be expected, namely:
- decrease in power (the car will become worse to "pull") due to poor performance of oily candles;
- "Floating" idle speed;
- the engine may stall when the engine speed is lowered.
It is also worth paying attention to the dynamic characteristics of the car - for example, acceleration, and fuel consumption. If these two parameters have not changed, then we can talk with a high degree of confidence about the wear of the valve seals. This is also indicated by the normal compression in the engine cylinders.
Replacing the valve stem seals
The duration and complexity of this process depends on the car brand and the specific model. But the general principles of replacement can be stated. To successfully replace the valve stem seals without removing the head, you must:
- Allow the engine to cool completely and remove the valve cover.
- Match the marks on the pulley, camshaft and crankshaft.
- Loosen the drive and remove the camshaft.
- "Dry" the valve springs (it is better to use a puller).
- Using pliers or a special collet, remove the valve seals.
- Take new products, lubricate their inner surface with engine oil. The same is required to be done with their footprint.
- Place the valve seals on the stem and press them in with a light blow with a rubber hammer.
- Put back the springs and dry them.
If there are suspicions that the valve stem seals have not changed for a long time, you will have to remove the cylinder head and clean the elements of the cylinder-piston group from carbon deposits.
Replacement of caps on VAZ 2121 (16 valves)
It is best to carry out this operation on the removed cylinder head. But if this cannot be done, replacing the valve oil seals with your own hands can be done on the spot. It is necessary to prepare in advance:
When everything is ready, you can go directly to the process. The algorithm is as follows:
- Disconnect the positive terminal from the battery, remove the high voltage wires and remove the spark plugs.
- Set the top dead center, as you do when changing the timing belt (the marks on the camshaft, pulley, crankshaft must match).
- Take a 12-inch socket wrench and remove the valve cover.
- Pull out the plugs connected to the strips.
- Remove the ignition coil.
- Remove the choke (if it is dirty, take the opportunity to clean it).
- Dismantle the valve cover and remove the screws that secure the rocker arms (pull them out too).
- Take a squeezer and "dry" the valve, having previously wrapped the device with a rag so that the valve clamps do not fly apart in different directions. One part of this device is stationary, while the other presses on the valve disc, simultaneously compressing the spring and releasing the "crackers".
- If the valve, when influenced by a tool, goes into the combustion chamber, then a wooden block or similar device will have to be inserted into the candle hole to stop the valve.
- Remove the worn valve stem seals from the bushings and press on new ones. Reassemble in the reverse order.
It is worth taking seriously the choice of valve stem seals for the VAZ2112. Experts recommend the following kits:
- 2112-1007026: these are original products manufactured by AvtoVAZ and installed on the conveyor - ideal for a Russian car;
- set Master-sport;
- Herzog;
- Trialli;
- STD "Reserve";
- Goetze: this manufacturer is worth dwelling on. Most experts prefer these particular products, despite the higher cost. The fact is that valve seals from this company are easier to install (the risks of damage are minimized) and they last longer than even "native" VAZ ones.
When buying oil seals for a foreign car, you need to take into account the design of the caps. For example, on Japanese products, there is a protrusion inside that matches the corresponding groove on the bushing.
It is clear that such valve seals cannot be installed on European, American or Russian cars. It is worth noting that removing and installing valve stem seals with your own hands will be cheaper, even taking into account the purchase of a “drying agent”, than a trip to a car service. They are able to seal the gaps between the valve and its gland for some time. Autochemistry of this kind will be cheaper than replacing the caps (even independent): it allows you to continue to operate the car for some time. The most commonly used additives include:
- Wagner (USA);
- Liqui Moly (Germany);
- Lavr (Russia).
Why you can't drive with worn out valve seals
When the lubricant enters the combustion chamber, the fuel and lubricants are mixed, as a result of which the oil begins to turn into a combustion product and settles on the spark plug electrodes in the form of black carbon deposits. As a result, sparking becomes unstable, the motor runs unstable and does not develop its full power. Contamination of the spark plugs will sooner or later lead to the failure of one of the cylinders. Another threatening nuisance is burnout of one or more valves. This is also fraught with cylinder failure and a sharp increase in oil consumption.
Good day everyone
I have a pre-maska \u200b\u200b'99. I got it in February - this is my first car :) While I was investing a lot of money in it, starting with all consumables / oil seals and suspension parts, ending with soundproofing and replacing all the acoustics around. Literally all this time, the machine has been regularly in services, tk. I did it for myself and literally worked for her. At the very last moment, I left the oil change, because the owner, who reported that the oil does not eat up, and the planned (every 10 tons) replacement will be in 3 thousand. Having left during this time (I did not travel a lot, periodically on business) a little less than a thousand kilometers, I drove the gearshift knobs to adjust the loosened backstage, and at the same time, earlier indicated to me for replacement by 2 thousand. oil, because I was impatient to change it, I even bought 8 liters from a dealer so that it could be free of fakes, and rinse it out first, pouring the second "set" afterwards for the summer. Changed with a complete drain of the old one at my request. Judging by the remainder in the canister, they filled in 3.5 with a filter change, which is the norm.
When I was picking up the car, handing it back in the box, I noticed that I had smoked the entire repair box with white exhaust smoke. Standing nearby, I went out to observe the exhaust. The smoke was already light, then it seemed to have completely disappeared. Having calmed down, he took her to the painter for minor finishing touches (scratches, kotski).
I was able to pick it up only after 3 days. Driving back from the stand, I noticed the smoke, this smoke again! Starting to finally realize that something is wrong here, I again watch the exhaust. It's warm outside, about +20 in the sun, noticeably warmer than on the day when I took it from the service. The smoke, meanwhile, began to subside again as the engine warmed up. I ran my finger - there is condensate at the end of the pipe. Everything seems to be in order. The smoke is barely visible.
I decided to drive home around the city, bypass. During the route I periodically turned off the music, listened to the engine. Turnovers - as usual. Liquid temperature is in the middle of the scale. The oil pressure indication and so on regarding the engine on the tidy are off. Sounds are all normal. Everything seems to be ok.
arrived, set. Today I began to google, ask questions to experienced motorists. There were assumptions about the breakdown of the cylinder head gasket, etching of the coolant into the cylinder. The serviceman from whom I service the car (at the time of picking up the car, he was not in the box), suggested on the phone that it could be stuck valve oil seals. The only question is that there was no such smoke before.
And finally, almost the denouement - in the evening, having accumulated the theoretical course of a young fighter, I come to my Masa, check the coolant level, which is 2 centimeters in the tank, and under the radiator cap - under the neck, which seems to be excellent, I am convinced that there are no whitish streaks on the oil filler cap engine throat and camshafts, run the heart of the masyanya. The plant in a split second, then seven seconds of quiet flawless work that seemed like eternity. And suddenly! - as if fresh grass was thrown into the fire - thick white smoke begins to fall and slowly rise into the air. Dense smoke, obviously not condensation, and what the hell is condensation when it's already 20 heat outside and in such conditions the exhaust activity should already be indistinguishable. Half a minute passed (not less), the density of the smoke decreased several times, becoming just a visible exhaust. The father who volunteered to help, at my request, adds gas at idle, and the smoke screen with renewed vigor spreads across the yard, hiding everything from sight. During gas filling, I tried to see bubbles in the expansion tank, which would indicate that the exhaust was etched into the cooling system. NOTHING! The liquid, perhaps not having time to warm up, all 5 minutes of engine operation did not even move anywhere, no bubble, no twitching, no oil stains on the surface of the liquid. Nothing: (Turning off the engine and opening the radiator lid, I also did not see oil there. Under the oil filler neck, everything is also in normal mode, there is no emulsion on the sluice, the oil level is closer to the maximum. Only a yard of 100x50 meters is half hidden in the smoke. And it smells a little it gives off with gasoline, not very much like oil, and the color is neither gray nor black, but white, and I didn’t wait for traces on the white sheet of paper attached to the exhaust.
In general, I am completely confused.And finally, introductory (sorry about the end of the topic):
capacity - fp-de 1.8 petrol injector, mileage 178t
oil before replacement 5w-40 castrol synthetics http://castrol.com.ru/castrol/magnatec_sae40c.php
oil after replacement 10w-40 liqui moly semi-synthetics http://catalogue.liquimoly.ru/index....talogue_id\u003d424
(the seller claimed that he did not reel, he does not need it). By indirect evidence, I believed him then, now I don’t know.
Antifreeze - blue... Just blue :) the only thing that I did not have time to change.
I chose the oil by studying the forums, since the motor was already in use, the semisynthetics should be shown to him for use. Moved despite the seller's assertion that he does not eat butter. It's calmer this way. The low-temperature density figure - in connection with the coming summer in Krasnodar (temperatures from 30 to 43 in the shade), I think that's what we need. Liquimoli took it through a friend, from a supplier, so that there were no fakes.
I confess I did not measure the coolant level after the purchase, how could I know. Maybe the antifreeze went away - but as I wrote above, I did not see this by indirect signs. An option to unscrew the crankcase drain plug and look for the presence of a heavy water fraction at the bottom of the oil? or again unscrew the candles, recently replaced, and try to find "cleaner" ones, which, in theory, could "eat up" the coolant. Would you have time? Moreover, replacing the old candles, I noticed that almost everything was normal with them. "Almost" - because the end is slightly coked, but the terminals of the spark gaps are clean and reddish, I have the edges of the thread - well, the mixture was re-enriched, because of this I changed the fuel filters (both) in the tank, and the air filter. I wanted to clean the nozzles with ultrasound myself or in the service during the week. So all these metamorphoses with the engine began to occur after an oil change in the service. Did the cunning owner use an anti-smoke additive in the old oil? But damn it, the smoke is now coming down so much that it can only be relieved by a young tree, if you drive it into the exhaust.
Help, good people. It's a pity for the typewriter, it's scary to say how much I invested in it: (Ask questions, maybe I didn't take into account something in my story. I will try to answer. Maybe someone from my acquaintances came across it. I'm really looking forward to advice. Of course, I will describe it if it works out (and enough money) to solve this problem.
Insufficient valve closure leads to the appearance of varnish deposits in the cylinder head and on the piston group.
Criteria for wear on stuffing boxes:
- regular occurrence of carbon deposits on spark plugs;
- overestimated consumption of engine oil;
- lack of stable idle speed;
- with a sharp increase in speed - abundant emission of gray smoke.
Maintenance includes regular replacement of oil, air, oil and fuel filters. Valve oil seals are designed for vehicle operation up to 100,000 km. In fact, the replacement has to be carried out earlier than the specified resource.
The device of the valve stem seals (valve seals)
The oil scraper seal is in the shape of a frusto-conical cylinder. A polymer ring with an expander spring is provided for tight contact with the valve guide surface. A plastic (or rubber) ring removes excess oil as the valve stem moves, and a spring allows it to firmly lock onto the stem.
For a long time, a rubber ring has been used in the design of the stuffing box. Variants from rubber and fluoroplastic have appeared recently. This is due to the fact that rubber dubs faster and loses its properties. The production of the ring using modern polymers prolongs the life of the stuffing box.
Purpose of valve stem seals
Long-term uninterrupted operation of the internal combustion engine is ensured by high-quality lubrication of rubbing parts. The oil distribution mechanism provides a small amount of oil. The camshafts in the cylinder head and the piston group require constant lubrication. The shaft rotates and a cloud of oil forms around it. The amount of lubricant is regulated by the valve stem seals.
Carbon deposits on the valve surface lead to incomplete closure and a gap. In the combustion chamber, the combustible mixture is ignited, and the excess oil settles in the form of varnish deposits. When the valve is pushed down, the stem packing prevents excess oil from entering. Protects the piston group from plaque caused by combustion of oil and fuel mixture. The valve stem seals are consumable items, as they need to be periodically replaced.
The location of the valve stem seals in the engine
A head with camshafts and valves is installed on the cylinder block. The valve stem moves through the guide sleeve. The thermal gap between the stem and the bushing is closed with caps. The oil seal is located so that oil from the head does not enter the combustion chamber. The camshaft journals receive oil under pressure, and the rest of the units are sprayed. After removing the engine block head and camshafts, you can see the location of the oil seals in the valve seats.
Signs of wear on the valve stem seals
You can find out about the need for replacement without disassembling the engine. The valve stem seals have the following signs of wear:
- excessive oil consumption;
- bluish smoke;
- carbon deposits on spark plugs.
When the oil seals are worn, oil consumption increases. This also happens when the piston group is "coked", but there is a visual difference. Oil drips are noticeable on the breather pipe. Gray smoke is a sign that oil is entering the combustion chamber. "Troening" of the engine and carbon deposits on the spark plugs are justified by the flow of oil through the stem oil seal. The car needs diagnostics and oil seals replacement.
The service life of the oil scraper does not depend on the price and manufacturer. For budget and "premium" cars, the resource is designed for mileage up to 100,000 km.
The procedure for replacing the valve stem seals
- Disconnecting the air filter, removing the cover and air ducts. The branch pipes and technical openings are closed with plugs. Unscrew the candles and cylinder head bolts.
- The piston in the first cylinder is set at top dead center. Removing the lock washer and star. The valve locknuts are allowed, and the control nuts are unscrewed until they stop.
- Crackers and springs are removed. The oil seals are removed with a puller. The bushings are lubricated with oil, slid onto a rod and installed with a hammer and rim.
- Assemble units and parts in reverse order. After, the rest of the caps are changed in the order of cylinders 4 - 2 - 3 by a similar algorithm.
Servicing each cylinder requires a 180 degree crankshaft rotation.
Self-replacement will require a special tool. The main specific device is a valve “desiccant”. It will be needed to replace the valve oil seal. Devices and materials:
- sets of socket and spanner wrenches;
- extension cord with heads;
- rod and hammer;
- collet clamp;
- press frame;
- tweezers;
- head gasket;
- a set of new caps;
- sealant.
During the work, it is possible to replace the gaskets for the block and the cylinder head. New oil seals are selected for a specific engine model.
The procedure for replacing the valve stem seals
Consider how the valve stem seals are replaced on an 8 valve engine without removing the head:
- Remove the fuel pump and air filter.
- Turn off the battery power and dismantle the ignition distributor.
- We unscrew the top cover of the block, disconnect the toothed pulley and the mass.
- Unscrew and remove the mounting nuts on the camshaft and bearings evenly.
- We dismantle shafts and oil seals.
- By turning the crankshaft, we raise the piston at TDC on the serviced cylinder.
- Insert a soft tin rod under the valve through the candle hole.
- We remove the springs with a special device and remove the plates. We replace the oil seals by pressing the old ones from the bushing and installing new ones.
- Let's reassemble in the reverse order. We proceed to a consistent similar replacement on the remaining cylinders.
The caps are lubricated with oil before installing in the frame. They are pressed into the plate carefully, without sharp strong impacts.
Gaskets and seals are installed under the bolt heads. Sort small items to avoid losing them.
After replacing all valve seals, reassemble the head by placing it on sealant and a new gasket. Tighten the nuts with a specified torque according to the instruction manual for this engine.
Valve packing kits differ in design for different engines. Installation is carried out according to technical recommendations for a specific car model. When carrying out work yourself, adhere to the accuracy:
- coincidence of the diameters of the sleeve belt and the valve stem;
- the length of the seats of the guide sleeve and cap;
- oil installations with reliable fixation (without the slightest backlash);
- selection of a set of caps for a specific engine model.
The high class of precision in the manufacture of parts allows to increase the density of the connection and complete coincidence of dimensions.
On sale there are additives for the restoration of oil seals. Their principle of action is to soften the hardened rubber of the sealing ring. Manufacturers differ in the quality of additive manufacturing. There are various effects on rubber: no effect or excessive softening, which leads to excessive consumption of oil.
Quite often, you notice that increased smoke appears from the exhaust pipe of a car. Sometimes situations reach the point that the car is literally shrouded in clouds of thick smoke. It is quite obvious that to every car enthusiast, the appearance of excessive smoke indicates the appearance of certain problems with.
We note right away that not always, but often, increased smoke indicates serious. At the same time, it will not be difficult for experienced drivers to determine the cause by the color and composition of the exhaust. However, it is not always easy for beginners to understand why the engine is smoking, as well as to establish the cause and identify rings or caps. Let's figure it out.
Read in this article
There is white or black smoke from the exhaust pipe
Let's start with the main types of smoke for a better understanding of the problem. So, white smoke from the exhaust pipe is quite normal for warm-up modes of a cold engine. Moreover, it is a mistake to believe that it is smoke. This is actually steam. Vaporized water is a natural product of the motor.
In an unheated exhaust system, this vapor partially condenses and becomes visible, with water usually appearing at the exit of the exhaust pipe. As the engine warms up, condensation decreases.
The colder the environment, the denser the steam is. At temperatures below 10 ° C, steam is formed on a well-warmed engine, and in freezing temperatures of minus 20 - 25 degrees, it acquires a thick white color with a bluish tint. The color and saturation of the steam is also influenced by air humidity. The larger it is, the thicker the steam.
Note that if steam is visible during the warm season, it is quite possible that this is due to. Its shade depends on the composition of the coolant, weather, lighting, as well as the amount of coolant in the combustion chamber. Sometimes it can acquire a bluish tint, resembling "oily" smoke. But, unlike oil smoke, which leaves a bluish mist in the air for a long time, the vapor quickly dissipates.
It is quite difficult for an inexperienced motorist to determine by appearance what is the source of the smoke. In this case, you can use a proven verification method. To do this, on a well-heated engine, briefly close the exhaust pipe with a sheet of white paper, while the condensed vapor in the form of water droplets will gradually evaporate when it hits the paper and will not leave obvious greasy traces.
If this simple test confirms that it is steam and not oil smoke that is escaping from the exhaust system, action must be taken to correct the problem that is causing coolant to enter the cylinders.
Most often, liquid can enter the cylinders through due to insufficient expansion (in winter, coolant leaks at the junction of the block and the head are often observed), burnout, and less often as a result of formation. By opening the radiator cap or, it is easy to detect the smell of exhaust gases and a film of oil on the surface of the coolant.
All problems associated with white smoke from the exhaust pipe require the elimination of not only direct causes, but also a mandatory check of systems that can affect their appearance: the switch sensor, the clutch or the fan itself, the condition of the radiator, its plugs, hoses or connections. If white smoke and accompanying defects are noticed, then the car cannot be operated, since the defects progress rapidly.
- Let's go further. Black smoke from the exhaust pipe indicates an over-enrichment of the fuel-air mixture or worsening of the fuel combustion conditions. Therefore, we are talking about faults. Such smoke is usually clearly visible against a light background and represents soot particles - products of incomplete combustion of fuel.
Black smoke is accompanied by high fuel consumption, often poor starting, unstable engine operation, high toxicity of exhaust gases, and often a loss of power due to a suboptimal air-fuel mixture.
It is important to understand that monitoring the symptoms and quickly identifying the problem will further reduce the cost of repairs and avoid serious and rapidly progressing ICE breakdowns.
Read also
Why are piston rings stuck. The main signs for self-determination of a malfunction, diagnostics. Do-it-yourself decarbonization of piston rings.