Probably, there is no such car owner who would not ask the question of which engine oil is best for the engine of his car, because if we consider the engine as the heart of the car, then oil is nothing but blood. It is designed to lubricate, cool, and clean the main automotive mechanical "organ". To cope with these tasks, the oil must meet the specific requirements of the engine itself, as well as its operating conditions.

Immediately it is necessary to indicate that there is no good and bad oil, there is just oil that is more suitable for the engine, and less, or not suitable at all, unless, of course, it is a fake, produced in underground conditions. In this article we will try to figure out how to choose a lubricant so that it meets the necessary requirements as much as possible. But first, it does not hurt to find out what types of motor oils are, and how they are classified.

Varieties of motor oils

Engine oils are divided into three main groups:

• mineral;
• synthetic;
• semi-synthetic.

The first group of oils are products made from petroleum by distillation or refining. They are inexpensive, however, their use today is justified only in engines of old technology with minimal loads. Mineral oils are highly viscous, which makes them practically unsuitable for use in high-speed power units.

A synthetic lubricant is produced by artificial synthesis. This is a rather complex chemical process, but the output is a product with a minimum viscosity, high chemical stability, and an evaporation temperature. Naturally, synthetic oils are much more expensive than mineral oils, but here the costs are fully justified, since the loads on the parts of modern engines are too high, and their service life can be extended only due to high-quality lubricants.

There is also a compromise option. These are semi-synthetic oils - products of mixing mineral oils and synthetics with the addition of the necessary additives. They combine the qualities of both lubricants, resulting in not too expensive, but high quality engine oil.

If you are not one of the happy owners of an imported modern car, and drive a VAZ or an old foreign car, you probably had to think about, or even take part in disputes about which oil is better for such cars: synthetic or semi-synthetic. Some argue that "you can't spoil porridge with butter", and recommend exclusively synthetics, while others, on the contrary, argue that the best option, after all, is semi-synthetics. Indeed, synthetic oils have the best characteristics, but if the engine and its components are not designed for them, it is better not to use them. Firstly, synthetics roughly act on deposits, peeling them from the surface, which can cause clogging of the oil receiver mesh, and clogging of oil channels. Secondly, because of its fluidity, synthetic oil is able to penetrate through stuffing boxes that are not designed for such a lubrication. As a result, oil will slowly ooze out of the oil seals and microcracks. The best option for our cars and foreign cars over ten years old is high-quality semi-synthetics.

Classification of oils for internal combustion engines

Oils are usually classified by:

• viscosity;
• operational characteristics.

Oil viscosity

This classification determines how much the oil is suitable for the engine in terms of its operation in certain temperature conditions. First of all, this applies to cold start, as well as operation at maximum load in heat.

The classification is carried out in accordance with the international standard SAE J300, which divides oils into 6 winter and 5 summer classes. The letter "W" in the encoding indicates that this is oil for the winter period (from the English "Winter" - winter). The numbers for winter oils are an index of permissible temperatures. It can be used to determine at what limit (minus) temperature the starter can turn the crankshaft of your car's engine. To do this, you need to solve a simple math problem - subtract 35 from this number. For example, for 10W it is -25C, for 5W it is -300C, etc.

The designation numbers for summer lubrication are the viscosity range of the oil (dynamic and kinematic) at 1000C and 1500C, respectively, which determines the limiting (positive) temperature at which the oil can lose its properties. Usually, little attention is paid to this value, although most European automakers recommend using summer oils with a range of at least 40.

There are also multigrade oils that are used everywhere in our latitudes, regardless of the type of engine. They have a double coding, at the beginning of which the winter index is indicated, and then the summer one. For example, SAE 10W-30 or SAE 5W-50. The decoding of the designations is preserved.

Performance classification

There are two standards in this classification: American (API) and European (ACEA).

The American standard divides oils into two separate categories:

• S - oils for gasoline engines;
• C - oils for diesel engines.

Each of these categories is subdivided into classes designated by two letters, and for diesel engines - also numbers. The first letter indicates belonging to a certain category, and the second (Latin alphabet in order) indicates quality. For diesel oils, a number (2 or 4) may also be present in the designation, indicating the engine stroke.

For example, SA, SB, SC, ..., SJ - for gasoline engines, CA, SV, SS, CD,…, CH-4 - for diesel engines.

The European standard has three main categories:

• A - lubricants for gasoline engines (A1, A2 and A3);
• B - for diesel engines (B1… B4);
• E - for engines of heavy machines (E1… E4).

The numbers in the coding indicate the quality of the product in ascending order.

Other oil selection criteria

Having dealt with the classifications of motor lubricants and their markings, you can already draw several conclusions for yourself regarding the type of engine and the temperature regime of its operation. But besides them, there are several more selection criteria that will not turn out to be superfluous:

• product manufacturer;
• the type and brand of oil that was previously poured into the engine;
• manufacturer's recommendations.

Choosing a manufacturer

Stopping at a lubricant manufacturer, it is worth noting that today in the automotive markets and in stores you can buy any oil of any manufacturer, both packaged and on tap. Sellers, as usual, will insist that it is better to take a product at a higher price, because it is of higher quality, and even a well-known advertised brand. But is it worth overpaying? Of course not!

Firstly, oil standards are outdated, but they do not change, and a huge amount of products accumulates somewhere abroad that can no longer be used, for example, due to new environmental requirements. And somewhere we have a lot of people who want to get a "quality" imported product for their car. So enterprising comrades are bringing us such goods, receiving also decent customs discounts at the border of the country, getting rid of unnecessary chemicals.

It is better to give preference to oil of a proven, even if not "promoted" manufacturer, whose product has not left the market for years. But he must be certified. Without a certificate, this is not oil, but an oil product, and it is highly undesirable to pour it into the engine of your car. You should also not buy oil on tap. In most cases, it is a handicraft liquid.

In summary, we can say that the best manufacturer is a trusted manufacturer whose products are certified and sold in specialized outlets.

Does the oil that was poured before play a role

There is a statement that it is better to pour oil from one manufacturer and one brand into the engine. In principle, the statement is correct if you are sure that before you the engine was really lubricated with high-quality oil, and that it does not have a high percentage of output (if you purchase a used car).

Usually, automakers, with the exception of VAZ (it is not clear why), pour the least viscous oil into the engine, which can create an optimal lubricating film thickness between unused rubbing parts. According to their recommendations, as the engine wears out, oils with a higher viscosity should be poured into it, which can provide a thicker film.

If you do not know which oil was filled before you, but you know which one is better to use, it is better to replace it after flushing the engine. But here it is also important not to break the wood. Special flushes, heavily advertised by their manufacturers, can harm the motor. The additives in their composition are not always safe, especially for engines with high output. It is better to flush with the oil that you intend to fill later.

Following the recommendations of the plant where the car was produced, choosing the type and brand of oil, is the surest and most reliable step. Use the instruction manual of the machine: everything is detailed there. If there is no manual, ask about this on the company's website, or from official suppliers of spare parts for your car model.

Finally, here are some tips that may be useful when choosing and replacing engine oil:

When choosing oil, do not be guided by its price with the calculation, the higher it is, the better the quality of the product. Very often, especially with us, the price is influenced by the cost of advertising, mediation, rental of premises, etc.

Even the oldest car should not be filled with mineral oil without first determining what type of lubricant its engine is designed for.

When changing the oil, in no case mix different types of it - this is fraught with a "conflict of additives", as a result of which the lubricant may lose its properties altogether. And do not try to get semi-synthetics on your own by mixing synthetics and mineral water.

Also, change the oil in accordance with the recommendations of the car manufacturer. Under heavy engine loads, shorten the oil change intervals.

Also watch the video

Plays a critical role. The wrong choice leads to many problems. For this reason, it is worth knowing which brand of oil is best for pouring into the engine. This is especially true for inexperienced motorists.

Read in this article

General information about engine oils

Before talking about which is the best engine oil manufacturer, you need to know which oil is right for a particular motor. The right choice will not only provide normal work but will also increase it. At the same time, if you fill in the wrong option, then the resource can be reduced. All oils have two most important characteristics: API - performance properties and SAE - viscosity.

API is an American classification system according to which oils are assigned one of three performance characteristics:

• S (Service) - characteristic of oils for;
• C (Commercial) - oils for;
• EC (Energy Conserving) - energy-saving (reducing gasoline consumption) oils for gasoline engines.

Each characteristic includes several classes of oils.

SAE is another American classification system that is based on viscosity (the ability to flow and simultaneously film the surface of a metal). According to this classification, oils are divided into: winter (6 classes), summer (5 classes) and all-season.

The SAE classification only gives an indication of the viscosity. That is, it provides an opportunity to choose oil for operation at certain temperatures. But this classification does not inform about any other qualities of the lubricant.

Also, when figuring out which engine oil is best to use, you should remember about the chemical composition. More precisely, on the basis. In this respect, oils are divided into synthetic, mineral and semi-synthetic. However, in this case, we are not talking about classification, but about which manufacturer's products to choose.

Which brand and brand of oil is better

There is no definite answer to the question of which brand of oil to buy. It all depends on many factors: operating conditions, car model, engine type, mileage, and so on. Nevertheless, experts managed to create a conditional list of the best engine oils, which recommends the best options for a particular occasion.

• For those looking for a relatively inexpensive but reliable oil for all seasons, Lukoil Super 5W-40 or Genesis Claritech 5W-30 Lukoil is suitable. They are used for both gasoline and diesel units.

Among the advantages, in addition to the affordable cost, include a low probability of counterfeiting, availability in almost any specialized outlet.
Of the "minuses": the need for relatively frequent replacement, a strong unpleasant smell, the formation of plaque on the internal surfaces of the engine.

TNK Magnum Super 5W-40. Another good and affordable option from a Russian manufacturer. This semi-synthetic oil ensures normal engine start and operation in any frost. Designed for different types of motors.
The main disadvantage is that sometimes black carbon build-up is observed inside the power unit.

• SHELL Helix HX8 Synthetic 5W-30. This option is worth paying attention to if oil is required to operate the engine at low (about -35 degrees) temperatures. Is it pure synthetic. Great for gasoline and diesel engines.

The low viscosity makes starting the power unit easier and saves fuel. No plaque remains on the inner surfaces. Replacement is performed after 10-15 thousand mileage under normal operating conditions. The main disadvantage is.

• Those who are puzzled by the question of which synthetic oil is better for pouring into the engine should pay attention to TOTAL Quartz INEO ECS 5W-30 and TOTAL QUARTZ 9000 5W-40.

Suitable for both gasoline and diesel engines. Practically does not fade when working. In a working ICE even after 10 thousand run. The composition has a low content of sulfur and phosphorus, which has a positive effect on the cleanliness of exhaust gases, as well as on fuel consumption. It has proven itself excellently at low temperatures. The main disadvantage is considered to be poor distribution in retail chains.

• ZIC. According to a group of experts and consumer reviews, the best engine oils for diesel and turbocharged engines are produced specifically for. ZIC XQ LS 5W-30 and ZIC XQ 5000 have low levels of sulfur, phosphorus and ash, which helps to reduce the content of toxic substances in the exhaust.

Contributes to significant fuel savings. Also suitable for petrol units. Provides easy starting and protection of motors at low and high temperatures.

• For those who are not used to saving money on their favorite car, oil will do MOBIL 1 ESP Formula 5W-30 or Mobil 1 0W-20. Thanks to the carefully selected composition, no deposits remain on the internal surfaces of the motor, which significantly extends its service life. The fuel savings when using these oils are about 2 percent. It is used for both gasoline and diesel units.

The main disadvantage is high price... In addition, counterfeits are not uncommon.

Conclusion

Of course, this article does not provide a complete rating of motor oils. The list can be significantly expanded if you select suitable options for specific brands and even car models. In some cases, Shell, Mobil or Liqui Moly products perform well, while in others the power unit “feels great” on ZIC, Total oil, etc.

It is important to understand that the main criterion for choosing an oil is always not the label, the declared properties and the manufacturer, but the vehicle in the technical manual for the car.

It is also necessary to take into account the operating conditions of each specific car. And if it is impossible to buy the recommended "native" oil for any reason, you can always find an adequate replacement, choose a more affordable or semi-synthetic product instead of expensive synthetics, etc.

Read also

The viscosity of engine oil, what is the difference between oils with a viscosity index of 5w40 and 5w30. What kind of lubricant is best to pour into the engine in winter and summer, tips and tricks.

How to choose the right engine oil for an old internal combustion engine or an engine with a mileage of more than 150-200 thousand km. What you need to pay attention to, useful tips.

Most motorists are arguing about what kind of oil to put in a car engine. Some are supporters of mineral oils, others support synthetic brands, and still others say that it is better to use semi-synthetic oils.

Looking ahead, we can say that the choice of oil is an exclusively personal matter, based on experience and performance. vehicle... However, here too there are many nuances and factors that you need to familiarize yourself with. If you take into account all the parameters and make the right choice, then you can significantly postpone the engine overhaul period.

The following criteria will help determine the type of oil:

• Recommendations from official manufacturers;
• Deterioration of the engine;
• Use of previous lubricating fluids;
• Waste consumption;
• Viscosity parameters;
• Price and quality characteristics.

Compliance with guidelines from international organizations and expert panels will help determine the correct chemical composition and additive requirements for oils. They directly affect the parameters of engine power and fuel consumption.

Before pouring oil, carefully read the information provided in the service books and technical data sheets of the vehicle. Inside the brochures there are clear directions from the manufacturer. The tables show the viscosity parameters and tolerance specifications for a particular engine brand.

If you get a supported car and the required documentation is missing, it is better to try to find out the necessary information through official dealerships or through suppliers of components and spare parts.

For an in-depth understanding, you need to know that each engine oil is made for a narrow range of engines, and not for a specific factory line of cars. Each automaker specifies exact tolerances for their engines, which should be considered when purchasing.

In the technical documentation, you need to find the oil approval code for your engine. For example, the code for Mercedes cars looks like this - MB 228.3.

As additional information, you can use the international classifications of names of oils SAE, API, ILSAC. For our purpose, the European quality standards ACEA are better suited. They will indicate the exact recommendations for each specific engine model of foreign manufacturers.

Pay attention to the condition of the engine itself

Particular attention should be paid to the wear parameters and properties of the engine itself. On a used car, it is not recommended to switch from mineral oil and start pouring synthetics. This is due to the fact that with an increase in mileage, cracks form in the rubber elements of the engine, which are automatically filled with deposits that prevent further leakage. When changing the old oil to a new one, such deposits are not washed out.

But if at the same time the engine is filled with synthetics, those "useful" deposits will be washed out and the fluid leakage through the washed slots will resume. This is due to the fact that synthetic motor oil has higher acid washout characteristics in comparison with mineral analogues.

Experienced auto mechanics recommend pouring synthetic motor oil for new engines. In older models using mineral oil, it is best to have a regular and timely replacement.
When buying a used car, ask the old owner for information on which engine oil they used. Check how the engine was behaving and how often the lubricant was changed.

Keep track of the average oil consumption

When choosing between different types of liquid, it is worth considering such a parameter as waste consumption. When the engine is running, the engine oil burns out in a certain amount due to the thermal effect of operating temperatures. Each manufacturer independently calculates and indicates an indicator of the average consumption rate.

The car owner should decide whether the consumption exceeds the established indicator or not? In case of increased waste, extra financial costs will be added for regular replenishment of the liquid level in the tank. In such a situation, it is better to simply change the type and brand of the fluid used, starting from the average rate indicator.

Can changing the lubricant affect the machine itself?

Another important question that every car owner should ask himself is whether it is necessary to change one engine oil for another?

There are a number of negative aspects in changing the brand of car oil, which adversely affect the condition of the internal engine parts. Regular replacement leads to higher maintenance costs.

The best solution would be to compare the tolerance of the vehicle oil from the vehicle manufacturer and the specification of the oil to be filled in, indicated on the container label.

Ideally, your admission should be indicated there. If an exact match occurs, it is strongly not recommended to make any replacement, but to pour only the chosen one.
The only reason to replace the car oil can only be increased consumption. In this case, it is recommended to cast a more viscous version.

Assess the market situation

Once you have decided on the oil that is best for your engine, you need to do a market price analysis. Choose the most suitable cost options. Dozens of similar options will be presented for each engine. The main criterion is still the certification of motor oils for admissions.

To find the best engine oil, you should use a search engine and enter the required manufacturer information for your engine. In the results window, there will be a lot of offers for the sale of auto oils from all kinds of manufacturers with instructions for approvals and classifications for various systems.

An important rule in this case is to ignore the recommendations of the engine oil manufacturers. They often resort to tricks and misrepresent the correct engine types in their advertisements in order to better market their products. Additive tolerances are the main thing to look out for.

Consider viscosity parameters

With the same approval, suppliers can offer several suitable brands at the same time. To shorten the list provided and choose the best option, you should start from the type of oil.

The main difference at this stage will be in the viscosity parameters. Experienced motorists are guided by one rule when choosing the right lubricant. With a significant vehicle mileage and the age of the engine itself, the high-temperature viscosity of the oil should be as high as possible.

High viscosity sports oil 0W60 can harm a long-term engine that has run over two hundred thousand kilometers. In addition, the consumption of the liquid itself will significantly increase, and the increase in power and horse power will remain unchanged.

If your engine does not exceed the consumption rate, use the type 5W40 types provided by the manufacturer and do not bother yourself with unnecessary searches.

Can semisynthetics replace mineral and synthetic oils?

Semi-synthetics are a great compromise between the two. The semisynthetics class exists and is popular exclusively in the CIS. In fact, such oil is produced from minerals using hydrocracking chemical processes, which improves the characteristics of the liquid itself.

The main difference between semi-synthetic brands lies in their price category. When good quality the oil itself can be poured into those engines where mineral analogs were previously used. The negative impact will be minimal.

Automotive grease classifications

An integrated approach and assessment is the key to a successful choice

I would like to repeat that there is no separate fixed oil for a particular car brand. Each choice is individual. On many forums and discussions, you can often find comments from drivers who describe their situations. Each car is personal and can be capricious in some cases. Repeated tests have proven that cars from Subaru and Honda plants show reduced performance when using mineral oil.

When choosing your motor fluid, you need to pay attention to the make of the engine, its condition and mileage, as well as the type fuel system and availability auxiliary units by the type of turbocharging.
Seasonal and operational conditions should be considered. In a normal situation, an oil change occurs every 10 thousand kilometers. However, expert commissions and leading car manufacturers recognized Russia as an area with increased operational complexity. In such difficult conditions, an oil change should occur every 5 thousand kilometers.

How to choose the right lubricant for the "heart" of the vehicle?

And a little about the secrets of the Author

My life is not only connected with cars, but also with repair and maintenance. But I also have a hobby like all men. My hobby is fishing.

I started a personal blog where I share my experience. I try a lot of things, various methods and ways to increase the catch. If interested, you can read it. Nothing more, just my personal experience.

Attention, only TODAY!

Types of engine oils for a car

The 3 main types of engine oil

Synthetic / Fully Synthetic
Synthetic oil is a synthesis of base oils based on synthetics, as well as additives that give it useful properties (increased wear resistance, purity, protection against corrosion). Such oils are suitable for operation in the most modern engines and in extreme operating conditions (low and high temperatures, high pressure, etc.).
The peculiarity of synthetic oil is that it retains its properties for a long time.
Experts do not recommend using it for engines with high mileage, in other cases the operating life of the fluid is quite long. The quality of the composition directly depends on the additives used. At the same time, the price of such oil is quite high.

Mineral / Mineral
Mineral motor oil has a mineral base, as it is a petroleum product and is produced by distilling fuel oil. It is distinguished by the instability of its characteristics and high degree volatility. Mineral oils can also be made from industrial crops. Since the technology of production of "mineral water" is relatively simple - the price of such oils is much lower than that of synthetic oils.
Most often it is used for motors with a range of more than 100 thousand km. The performance characteristics of mineral oils do not allow them to withstand too high temperatures, and they also require more frequent replacement.

Semi-Synthetic
A semi-synthetic oil is obtained by mixing two different bases in the following proportions: 30-50% synthetics and 50-70% mineral oil.
Semi-synthetic is more stable than mineral oil, but inferior to synthetic. But if the car has a significant mileage, then you can use semi-synthetics, since synthetics give a high carbon content. Semi-synthetics can also be used when the car is not operated at low temperatures (below twenty degrees Celsius), if the other characteristics of the oil are suitable for this car. Semi-synthetic oil will have to be changed a little more often than synthetic one.

For the selection of engine oil by car make

The main element for oil producers is oil, which is supplemented with various additives such as minerals, polymers, oligomers or synthetics.

Additionally, the composition includes various additives:
-viscous... allow you to maintain the required consistency in all weather conditions, improve the properties of the oil as a lubricant;
-antioxidant... due to a decrease in the action of oxides that arise during combustion, additives increase the service life of the motor;
-anti-corrosion... prevent the occurrence of rust;
-washing... are responsible for maintaining cleanliness, do not allow dirt particles to get on the filter and engine elements.

Engine oil marking

In order to streamline and simplify the procedure for selecting oil for a specific type of engine according to the required characteristics and tasks assigned to it, a number of international standards have been developed.
Engine oil has two main parameters by which its classification is carried out:
- its scope (diesel engine, old gasoline engine, modern turbodiesel, etc.)
- viscosity-temperature properties.

The world's leading manufacturers use the following generally recognized classifications of motor oils:
SAE - Society of Automotive Engineers
(marking of engine oils by viscosity);
API - American Petroleum Institute
(connects the performance properties of oils with the operating conditions of the engine);
ACEA - Association of European Car Manufacturers. ;
ILSAC - International Committee for Standardization and Approbation of Motor Oils;

Domestic oils are also certified for GOST.

What can you see on the oil canister label?
SAE viscosity grade.
API and ACEA specifications.
Car manufacturer approvals.
Barcode.
Batch number and production date.
Pseudo-labeling (not a generally recognized standard labeling, but used as a marketing ploy, for example, fully syntetic, HC, with the addition of smart molecules, etc.).
Special categories of motor oils.

On the canister, along with other markings, the chemical composition is also indicated.

SAE - carries information about the density of the composition and the recommended temperature range for use.

SAE 15W-40

The letter W is an abbreviation for the English word Winter.
In this example, the fluid is intended for year-round use.
Most oils today are "universal", ie. suitable for both winter and summer use. Their SAE class is written in two numbers separated by a hyphen, with the letter W in between. Letter W means that this oil is suitable for winter use, and the number in front of it - this is an indicator of low-temperature viscosity (roughly speaking - what frost this oil can withstand). The smaller it is, the easier the engine starts in severe frost.
When the letter is complemented only by one digit (SAE 5W) means winter oil.
Second digit - This is an indicator of high-temperature viscosity (i.e. how much summer heat the oil can withstand).
If the oil is only suitable for summer use, then its designation will be without lettersuch as SAE 30.

Remember: before the letter W, the value of the viscosity level is indicated at maximum negative temperatures, after - at positive ones.

Engine Oil Decoding - SAE Numbers

Low temperature viscosity readings mean the following:
* 0W - the oil is suitable for use in frosts down to -35-30 degrees. FROM
* 5W-oil is suitable for use in frosts down to -30-25 degrees. FROM
* 10W - oil is suitable for use in frosts down to -25-20 degrees. FROM
* 15W - oil is suitable for use in frosts down to -20-15 degrees. FROM
* 20W - oil is suitable for use in frosts down to -15-10 degrees. FROM

High temperature viscosity readings mean the following:
* 30 - the oil is suitable for use at temperatures up to + 20-25 degrees. FROM
* 40 oil is suitable for use at temperatures up to + 35-40 degrees. FROM
* 50 oil is suitable for use in heat up to + 45-50 degrees. FROM
* 60 oil is suitable for use in heat up to +50 degrees. From and above

The lower the number - the "thinner" the oil, the larger the number - the thicker it is. Thus, 10W-30 oil can be used at ambient temperatures from -20-25 degrees below zero, up to + 20-25 degrees of heat.

Average temperature limits of oil viscosity
5W - 30 from minus 25 to plus 20
5W - 40 from minus 25 to plus 35
10W - 30 from minus 20 to plus 30
10W - 40 from minus 20 to plus 35
15W - 30 from minus 15 to plus 35
15W - 40 from minus 15 to plus 45
20W - 40 from minus 10 to plus 45
20W - 50 from minus 10 to plus 45 and above
SAE 30 0 to plus 45

3 types of oils depending on viscosity

Basically, oils are necessarily divided into three types, depending on the viscosity:

winter oils, they are more fluid and provide trouble-free starting of the engine in the cold season. In the designation of the SAE index of such an oil, the letter "W" will be present (for example, 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, etc.). To understand the boundary value, you need to subtract the number 35. In hot weather, such oil is not able to provide a lubricating film and maintain the required pressure in the oil system due to the fact that at high temperatures its fluidity is excessive;
summer oils are used when the average daily temperature is not lower than 0 ° C, since its kinematic viscosity is high enough so that in hot weather the fluidity does not exceed the required value for good lubrication of engine parts. At subzero temperatures, starting an engine with such a high viscosity is impossible. Summer brands of oils are designated by a numerical value without letters (for example: 20, 30, 40, and so on; the higher the number, the higher the viscosity).
multigrade oils the most popular, since they are able to operate at both minus and plus temperatures, the boundary value of which is indicated in the decoding of the SAE indicator. This oil has a double designation (example: SAE 15W-40).

Practical uses of oils

Oils with high temperature viscosity 40 (5W40) - the best option for engines produced in the 90s - early 2000s. For the regions of the Far North, it makes sense to consider 0W40 oils, this can significantly facilitate starting the engine in winter.
5W30 today it can be considered universal: this viscosity is used both in budget foreign cars and in engines of premium cars.
0W20 - low-viscosity motor oils used in a large number of modern engines. Moreover, pouring more viscous oils into them is categorically not recommended: piston rings, which have a specially reduced elasticity to reduce mechanical losses, cannot cope with a more durable oil film, and oil burns begin to grow.
High-temperature viscosity 50 is relevant for owners who operate their cars hard - it is not for nothing that oils 5W50, 10W60 have received the name "sports" in everyday life.
10W40 –The standard choice of owners of old cars, as a rule, is budget semi-synthetics of outdated quality classes - SH, SJ.
Diesel engines with particulate filters should have minimal oil waste, which should not give a noticeable solid sediment (low ash content). This parameter is critical, therefore, only oils that have the appropriate certification can be poured into the engines of such cars.
Overwhelming majority light diesel engines this type uses oils with a viscosity 5W30.

Oil marked 5W - the most liquid in the cold, used in any frost. Oil marked 10W provides engine start up to -30 ° C (applicable in winter in a temperate climate zone). Oil marked 15W can create starting difficulties at temperatures around -25 ° C, however, with a powerful starter and good battery range extension possible. In temperate climates, a suitable oil for driving all year round.

When choosing the viscosity of the oil (from those approved for use in the engine of your car), you need to be guided by the following rule: the more mileage / older the engine is, the higher the high-temperature viscosity of the oil should be.

Viscosity characteristics are the very first and important element classification and labeling of engine oils, but not the only one - choosing oil only by viscosity is wrong. It is always necessary to choose the right ratio of oil properties and operating conditions. Each oil, in addition to viscosity, has a different set of performance properties (detergent, antioxidant, antiwear, tendency to form various deposits, corrosiveness, and others). They allow you to determine the possible area of \u200b\u200btheir application.

The area of \u200b\u200bapplication of the oil is classified mainly by API. In the API classification, the main indicators are: engine type, engine operating mode, oil performance, conditions of use and year of manufacture.

AP engine oil marking

The API designation uses two letters (for example, SJ or CF).
The first one indicates the type of engine: S-gasoline engine, C-diesel.
The second letter specifies the conditions for using the oil - modern engine or old, with or without turbine.
If the oil is marked API SJ / CF - which means that it is suitable for both gasoline and diesel engines of this category.

API labeling of engine oils may include:

abbreviation EC, which is located immediately after the API - means energy saving oils;
Roman numerals after this abbreviation they talk about fuel economy;
letter S (Service) - indicates the use of oil for gasoline engines; letter C (Commercial) oils for diesel engines;
after one of these letters is indicated performance level, indicated by letters from A (lowest level) to N and further (the higher the alphabetical order of the second letter in the designation, the higher the oil class);
universal oil has letters of both categories through an oblique line (for example: API SL / CF);
API marking for diesel is divided into two-stroke (number 2 at the end) and 4 bars (number 4).

Engine oils that have passed API / SAE testing and meet the requirements of the current quality categories are indicated on the labels with a round graphic symbol. At the top there is an inscription - "API" (API Service), in the middle is the SAE viscosity, as well as the possible degree of energy savings.

API designations for gasoline engines:
* SC - cars developed before 1964
* SD - cars developed in 1964-1968
* SE - cars developed in 1969-1972
* SF - cars developed in 1973-1988
* SG - vehicles developed in 1989-1994, for severe operating conditions
* SH - cars developed in 1995-1996 for severe operating conditions
* SJ - cars developed in 1997-2000, better energy saving properties
* SL - cars developed in 2001-2003, extended service life
* SM - development vehicles since 2004, SL + improved oxidation stability

API Designations for Diesel Engines:
* CB - cars before 1961, high sulfur content in fuel
* CC - vehicles prior to 1983 working in severe conditions
* CD - cars before 1990, high sulfur fuel and difficult working conditions
* CE - cars before 1990, turbine engine
* CF - cars from 1990, with a turbine
* CG-4 - vehicles from 1994, with turbine
* CH-4 - cars since 1998, under high US emission standards
* CI-4 - modern cars, with a turbine, with an EGR valve
* CI-4 plus - similar to the previous one, under high US toxicity standards

Using oil according to its "own" specification reduces wear and the risk of engine breakdown, reduces oil burnout, fuel consumption, reduces noise, improves engine performance (especially at low temperatures), and increases the service life of the catalyst and exhaust cleaning system.
When changing the type of oil, according to the API classification, you can go only "ascending", and change the class only by a couple of points. For example, instead of SH, use SJ, usually a higher grade oil already contains the necessary additives of the "previous" oil. However, for example, you should not switch from SD (for old cars) to SL (for modern cars) - the oil may turn out to be too aggressive.

ACEA engine oil classification

The ACEA classification was developed by the Association of European Automobile Manufacturers. It indicates the performance properties, purpose and category of engine oil. ACEA classes are also divided into diesel and gasoline.
The latest edition of the standard provides for the division of oils into 3 categories and 12 classes:
A / B - gasoline and diesel engines cars, vans, minibuses (A1 / B1-12, A3 / B3-12, A3 / B4-12, A5 / B5-12);
C - gasoline and diesel engines with an exhaust gas catalyst (C1-12, C2-12, C3-12, C4-12);
E - diesel engines for trucks (E4-12, E6-12, E7-12, E9-12).

In addition to the engine oil class, the ACEA designation indicates the year of its introduction into force, as well as the edition number (when the technical requirements were updated). Domestic oils are also certified according to GOST.

Classification of engine oils according to GOST

According to GOST 17479.1-85, motor oils are divided into:
kinematic viscosity classes;
performance groups.
By kinematic viscosity, oils are divided into the following classes:
summer - 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 20, 24;
winter - 3, 4, 5, 6;
all-season - 3/8, 4/6, 4/8, 4/10, 5/10, 5/12, 5/14, 6/10, 6/14, 6/16 (the first number indicates the winter class, the second for summer).
In all of these classes, the higher the numerical value, the higher the viscosity.
According to the area of \u200b\u200bapplication, all engine oils are divided into 6 groups - designated from the letter "A" to "E".
Index “1” denotes oils intended for gasoline engines, index “2” - for diesel engines, and oils without an index indicate its versatility.

ILSAC classification of engine oils

ILSAC is a joint invention of Japan and America, the International Committee for Standardization and Approbation of Motor Oils has issued five standards for motor oils: ILSAC GF-1, ILSAC GF-2, ILSAC GF-3, ILSAC GF-4 and ILSAC GF-5. They are completely similar to API classes, the only difference is that oils corresponding to the ILSAC classification are energy-saving and all-season. This classification is best suited for Japanese cars.
Correspondence of ILSAC categories regarding API:
GF-1 (obsolete) - oil quality requirements are similar to API SH category; by viscosity SAE 0W-XX, 5W-XX, 10W-XX, where XX-30, 40, 50,60.
GF-2 - meets the requirements for API SJ oil quality, and SAE 0W-20, 5W-20 viscosity.
GF-3 is an analogue of the API SL category and has been put into effect since 2001.
ILSAC GF-4 and GF-5 are analogs of SM and SN, respectively.
In addition, within the ISLAC standard for Japanese cars with turbocharged diesel engines, JASO DX-1 class is used separately. This marking of automotive oils provides engines of modern vehicles with high environmental parameters and built-in turbines.

Major manufacturers of motor oils

Shell
Co-production between Britain and Holland
A recognized world leader in the manufacture of synthetic and semi-synthetic oils.
Shell is a famous and not too inexpensive brand of quality motor oil. A special merit of the company is the creation of, probably, the most effective flushing compositions.
One of the best options in terms of balance between cost and quality.

Mobil
USA
Mobil is one of the leading synthetic lubricants.
A rich assortment allows you to choose a working fluid for almost any engine. Prices are moderate, the main advantage is significant fuel savings due to the unique technological process.

Motul
France
Motul is a world famous manufacturer with 150 years of history

Lukoil
Russia
One of the few manufacturers of motor oils in Russia that supplies products that meet all international standards.
The oil is of sufficient quality, provides good performance properties. At the same time, the price is quite reasonable, given the high performance properties of the product.

Castrol
Castrol is the Official Formula 1 Car Oil
It does not contain any impurities that do not have the best effect on the engine parts. The price is quite high.

Total
Total is one of the best oils on the market.
However, the main production capacity of the company is directed to the production of motor oils for Volkswagen engines. In the composition of oils, the amount of sulfur and phosphorus is reduced, due to which the products are distinguished by increased environmental friendliness.

Xado
Netherlands
All grades of oils are produced. The cost of the products is quite low, while the innovative additive package allows you to choose the composition that is right for you. Thanks to Atomic Oil technology, premature engine wear is prevented.

Liqui moly
Germany
Reliable oil from Germany. Liqui Moly pleases with a constantly updated list of additives and excellent quality.
If you are looking for a formulation that will help reduce the amount of fuel consumed, then this is it. At the same time, the oil will retain its operational properties in any temperature regime.

General motors
USA
General Motors is a famous brand in the automotive market.
This option is one of the best in terms of financial savings. Lubrication of engine elements occurs very quickly and efficiently, the use of oil can significantly reduce the level of fuel consumption. With General Motors oil, the engine will start immediately, even at very low temperatures.

ZIC
Zic is a giant industrial center with more than 80 factories located all over the planet.
Under this logo you can find any type of auto chemistry, including motor oil.
Among the products from this brand, the most prominent is the high-quality synthetic composition XQ LS 5W-30, which contains a minimum amount of sulfur and phosphorus additives, as well as ash. Of the main advantages here, it is worth highlighting the low price, the ability to work at low and high temperatures, as well as the possibility of long-term use of oil.

Petro
Canada
Lines for all types of power units are presented, while the oil can be semi-synthetic, synthetic, and mineral. Thanks to the original recipe and innovative additives, the products demonstrate good parameters.
High ecological properties of the composition are also distinguished.

Gazpromneft
Russia
The manufacturer has prepared several lines for different seasons and power units. Such compositions protect well against oxides, corrosion and premature wear. The carbon deposits are small, the temperature in the motor is maintained at a stable level.

• Use the highest quality products, even for older engines, if you want to extend the life of your powertrain.
• The quality of the oil is not always proportional to the price. It is important to follow the development of a particular line. Some world-renowned manufacturing companies produce outdated formulations. Conversely, a number of new firms produce sufficiently high quality lubricants.
• Consider. That for each motor, special lines of compositions have been developed. They are optimally suited for a specific internal combustion engine. Before purchasing a motor or transmission oil, you should study the recommendations of the car manufacturer;
• The temperature range indicated on the oil packaging is for guidance only;
• It is not always justified to use lubricating products with a higher level of quality properties, since this can negatively affect the stability of the lubrication system itself;
• It is important to change the oil within the time specified in the recommendations of the car manufacturer.
  Under severe operating conditions (city traffic jams, off-road), the oil should be changed 1.5-2 times more often, since the oil "ages" faster when using low gears; the same is recommended for cars with old, worn out engines;
• When changing the oil, it is advisable to change the oil filter;
• It is unacceptable to mix mineral and synthetic oil, this can lead to the formation of an insoluble residue; do not add mineral oil to semi-synthetic oil due to the different solubility of the additives;
• Topping up should be the same type of oil that is poured into the engine, since mixing different additives will lead to a significant deterioration in the properties of the oil;
• Periodically, flush the engine lubrication system with special fluids; the oil level must not be allowed to drop below the established minimum, this will inevitably lead to rapid wear of the rubbing parts;
• The marking of oils for the engine and transmission must necessarily contain the date of manufacture of the product, based on which, it is possible to determine its suitability (the maximum shelf life of lubricants is 5 years);
• Store engine or gear oil only in a sealed container that protects the product from moisture and air.
• Do not judge oil by color, as most of the additives make the oil darker;
• The addition of various preparations to the oil can improve some properties and dramatically worsen others, since you violate the precisely balanced additive package; change the composition of the oil only in extreme cases.

Before figuring out what kind of oil to pour into a car engine, you need to understand what types of oils are on the market, for what types of engines they are suitable, and only then we will be able to understand exactly which oils should be poured into the engine.

Many drivers already know that there are synthetic, semi-synthetic and mineral oils.

But not many people know that the engine of their car could be developed taking into account the possibility of working on engine oils. different typesfrom full synthetics to mineral oils.

And although there may only be one type of oil specified in the car manual that is applicable to your type of engine, in fact, this is far from the case.

Which oil is better

The main criteria that will allow us to decide which oil to fill in the engine are:

1. Performance of oils;
2. Replacement frequency;
3. Cost.

Performance of oils

This indicator is strongly influenced by the manufacturing technology of a particular type of oil.

And although the technologies for the production of mineral, synthetic and semi-synthetic oils are similar in many details, yet the output is products that have different performance characteristics.

The main difference in their production lies in the use of various base components and additives.

Mineral oils

In production, mineral base components are used, which form the viscosity and various additives that increase the performance and reduce the temperature of use of mineral oils.

Many drivers have probably already noticed the brands 10W-40, 15W-40 and others on the market.

Brief characteristics:

1. Mineral 10W40 - all-season, the recommended ambient temperature, at which the characteristics of the oil will not harm the engine - from minus 20 degrees to plus 35 degrees.
2. 15W-40 - from minus 15 to +35 degrees.

Mineral motor oils are not manufactured in a class lower than 10W, therefore the temperature regimes for their use are more limited than for synthetic oils.

Such oils cannot provide 100% lubrication of cold engine parts at low temperatures in the first fraction of a second.

Also, at very high engine operating temperatures, mineral oil can undergo an oxidation process, and this greatly reduces its quality and reduces its service life.

Synthetic

With synthetic oils, the picture is slightly different.

In the process of their manufacture, synthetic base components and additives are used. Such production approaches allow to create oils of the 0W and 5W grades.

For such oils, temperatures are not terrible even at minus 40 degrees, they are guaranteed to ensure engine start-up even in such weather conditions, which is not characteristic of their analogues, mineral oils.

Synthetics are less susceptible to oxidation, which means they retain their original qualities longer than mineral water.

Below are tables that will allow you to get answers to some questions.

There are special antioxidant additives that could be added to the "mineral water" and solve the problem with oxidation.

But the presence of such additives in mineral oil significantly increases the formation of carbon deposits, engine coking, etc. And after a while the driver will have to do.

And when using synthetics, the appearance of carbon deposits is minimized.

Semisynthetics

This concept is typical only for the CIS countries. Semi-synthetics are not a bad alternative synthetic oils, since it is much cheaper.

Semi-synthetics are made from mineral oil as a result of chemical hydrocracking. This process significantly improves the characteristics of the latter.

Example

In order to understand what kind of oil to fill in the engine, consider an example.

Have you chosen a brand motor oil 20W - 40... This brand can be used at temperatures from -10 to +45 degrees (see the table above).

If you start to start the car at minus 20 degrees, the oil pump will not fully cope with the viscous, cold oil, it will not be delivered through the channels to all rubbing surfaces of the engine and in the first seconds of its start, increased wear of parts will occur.

The pressure in the system will also increase greatly, and this can lead to its depressurization and oil leakage.

If we consider an example from the opposite, then at high temperatures, the low viscosity of the oil will not create regulatory pressure in the system, which will again lead to rapid wear of the parts.

The seals between the worn out parts simply cannot hold such oil, the leak is guaranteed.

Viscosities of 50 and 60 will partially solve this problem.

Each car, the frequency of replacement, the type of lubricant, its characteristics and quantity are different.

For clarity, consider how much oil and what should be poured into different cars.

Crossover Chevrolet Niva

Now more specifically, what kind of oil to choose for the Chevrolet Niva and start with its type.

Everyone knows that there are three types of them: mineral, synthetic and semi-synthetic.

It is noteworthy that manufacturers do not indicate which type of lubricant is recommended to be poured, they only give a range of acceptable for use by viscosity class.

So, oils 5W- (30.40), 10W- (30, 40), 15W-40, 20W-40 are suitable for Chevrolet Niva.

The first two on the list (5W) are synthetic lubricants, the rest are mineral or semi-synthetic (therefore, the manufacturer does not have a recommendation for the type of oil).

In terms of viscosity, oil for this car should be selected taking into account the climatic conditions in which the car is operated.

As for the level of operational properties, oils with A2 markings should be poured into the Chevy Niva (according to aCEA classification) or SG, SH, SJ (API classification).

It is worth noting here that some manufacturers produce universal oils suitable for both gasoline engines and diesel engines, so the marking according to the ACEA classification may look like A2 / B2, and according to API - SG / CD, etc.

Picking up universal lubricant for this crossover, you should be guided by the first (petrol) part of the marking.

Under normal conditions, it is better not to reach the full depletion of the resource of the lubricant, but replace it a little earlier - after 10-12 thousand km.

As for the quantity, according to the passport, 3.75 liters are required in the Chevy Niva engine, but in reality less is included (due to the fact that it will not be possible to completely drain the used oil), so 3.0-3.4 liters will be needed for replacement.

In general, you should buy a 4-liter canister so that there is still left for refilling.

Since we figured out the classifications, then for all subsequent models we will simply indicate which oils are suitable.

VAZ cars

Let's start with cars that rolled off the assembly line before 2000. This includes models of different families, for example, VAZ-2105, 2108, 2109 (with carburetor power systems).

For these vehicles, oils with SAE classification are suitable - 5W- (30, 40), 10W- (30, 40), 15W-40, 20W-40.

In terms of performance, SF class (API classification) is required.

As for the manufacturers, oils, Azmol (Super), Lukoil (Standard), Shell (Helix), Ravenol (Formel Super) are suitable for these cars.

But for cars produced after 2000, it does not matter which model - 21099 (injector), 2110, 2112 (with different types Timing - for 8 or 16 valves), 2115 - you need the same viscosity lubricants 5W- (30, 40), 10W- (30, 40), 15W-40, 20W-40, as well as 15W-30, 20W-30 , but on aPI standard - not lower than SG.

As for the brands, Lukoil oils (Standard, Super, Lux) Castrol (Magnatec, Edge) Shell (Helix Plus Extra, Helix Plus), Mobil (Super 2000), ESSO (Ultra), ZIC (A +, XQ) are suitable for such cars ...

As for the replacement frequency, it is the same as that of the Chevrolet Niva, that is, the lubricant should be changed every 15 thousand km. (but it's better to do it earlier). For the operation, you will need at least 3.5 liters (this is the passport volume).

Lada granta

For this car, you already need a lubricant with SJ and SL classes according to API (A3 - according to ACEA).

As for the amount of oil for filling, then for all motors with which Grant is equipped, 3.5 liters of lubricant will be needed.

Mitsubishi cars

Lancer 9th and 10th generation

The first among the models under consideration will be the 9th and 10th generation Lancer models.

Immediately, we note that the Japanese, as always, are in their repertoire, and recommend using only oils of their own production for their cars.

But in general, the conditions for the selection of oil for such cars do not differ from the same VAZ, that is, the oil should be selected in terms of viscosity and performance.

For Lancer of these generations, oils with a viscosity of sAE classification 0W-20, 5W- (20, 30), 10W-30.

As for the performance properties, a lubricant of SJ, SL classes (according to API) is needed.

In addition, the Japanese put forward another requirement for the oils poured into their cars - certification according to the ILSAC standard.

So, for Lancer you need oil with the GF-4 class according to the specified classification.

If you choose from original oils, then Mitsubishi oils are suitable for these cars: DiaQueen, Lubrolene, Motors Genuine OIL, Diamont.

But it is quite possible to choose among analogs (Mobil, Castrol, Eneos), the main thing is that the classifications match.

For example, Eneos Super Gasoline SM 5W30:

The lubricant change frequency is standard (15 thousand or once a year). As for the quantity, it all depends on the established power plant.

On the 9th Lancer with engines up to 2.0 liters, 3.3 liters are needed, and for a 2-liter unit - 4.3 liters.

For a 10th generation car, the situation is somewhat different: for installation on 1.5 liters, 4.2 liters are required, and for 2.0 liters - 4.3 liters.

Pajero sport

Let's walk through another model, namely Pajero sport, but for a change we take diesel version, for example, 2.5 liters.

For this car, you should select oils according to the SAE classification, the same as for the Lancer. But according to other standards, it should be like this: API - not lower than CF, ACEA - not lower than B4, ILSAC - GF-4.

If we consider original lubricants, then Mitsubishi Genuine OIL is suitable for Pagero Sport. But you can also fill in analogues - Mobil, Motul, Eneos, Ravenol.

Outlander xl

The last of the Mitsubishi lineup is the Outlander XL crossover. The viscosity of the oil for this car should be selected the same as for the Lancer.

You can upload as original oil Mitsubishi, as well as analogues. But it is imperative to consider other classifications.

For a crossover, lubricants are needed with an API class of at least SG, ACEA - A3 or A5, it must also be ILSAC certified, and its class must be GF-5.

As for the amount of lubricant to be poured, it all depends on the installed power unit.

Engines with a displacement of 2.0 and 3.0 liters require 4.3 liters of lubricant, and for a 2.4-liter engine, 4.6 liters.

Hyundai

The next example would be the Korean Hyundai Terracan SUV and take the 2.5-liter diesel version.

The operating instructions for this indicate that diesel greases 5W-30, 10W-30, 15W-40, 20W-40 according to SAE are suitable for this power plant.

It is necessary to select a lubricant with a CH-4 class according to the API standard.

As for the manufacturer, Lukoil, Mobil, ZIC, Eneos, in general, any with the appropriate parameters are quite suitable.

You need to replace it every 15 thousand km. (optimally - after 10-12 thousand) and for a 2.5-liter unit it will need 6.5 liters.

But if we consider the specified tolerance, then it fully corresponds to the A3 class of the ACEA standard. As for the API classification, you need oil of at least SM class.

For this car, you can look for the original VAG oil, or get by with analogues - Xado, ZIC, Mobil, SHELL, Castrol, Lukoil, Valvoline, Gt-Oil.

Replacement will require 4.7 liters, and it should be changed after 15 thousand km or a year of operation.

Golf IV

The second Volkswagen will be the Golf IV with a 1.6-liter AZD unit.

It is up to you to decide which oils to pour into the engine, somewhere you can win in price, but lose in quality and in turnover. But remember, engine repairs are significantly more expensive than the money saved on oil.

Understand, then you need to choose a brand of engine oil based on the operating conditions of the car (weather, engine load).

What kind of oils do you fill in your car engine? Share your experience in the comments.