Consumption engine oil is determined depending on the amount that burns out in the engine. can speak either of its poor quality (the lubricant then burns out excessively), or of a malfunction of the engine itself (a leak occurs, most often through the valve seals and oil scraper rings). Everything will depend on the specific numbers and additional symptoms that may appear with a burnout of the lubricating fluid.

How is engine oil consumption calculated?

To determine the rate, not the mileage is taken into account, but the consumption of the fuel resource. This indicator is more accurate than the distance traveled, because when you are in traffic jams, the oil is depleted even more, and the odometer does not change its value.

It is customary to calculate the consumption of oil in the engine by its volume of 100 liters of fuel spent on combustion.

To find out the oil consumption rate in your car's engine, you need to use the calculation formula and calculator, or use this online form. It involves calculating the permissible amount of oil for waste according to the type of engine, the volume of operating oil and the amount of fuel consumed, taking into account the state of the piston group.

Calculated formulas for oil consumption

General actual oil consumption for waste during its operation cycle (from replacement to replacement) can be calculated using the formula:

Qy \u003d ∑q + (Qs-Qsl),

Where ∑q is the oil topped up during the cycle (between TO); Qз - filled during refueling; Qsl - drained when replacing.

And here the consumption of the filled oil in liters per 100 liters of fuel defined as follows:

Mz \u003d V / (P * k),

Where V is the capacity of the engine lubrication system; P is the consumed fuel k is the coefficient taking into account the wear of the piston group (k - for diesel car 1.25; gasoline 1.15; turbo 1.3).

Oil consumption rates increase up to 20% for cars after overhaul and have been in operation for more than 5 years.

Engine oil consumption rate for waste

For passenger transport a normal indicator of waste is the consumption of 0.005 - 0.025% per 100 liters of fuel, which is approximately 5 to 25 grams of oil per 1,000 km. In a worn out engine, up to 0.1% and 100 gr. by 1000 km, respectively. Well, if the car is working at the limit or has a turbocharged or diesel unit, then this rate will be even greater.

For freight long meters oil consumption rate 0.3 - 0.4% of fuel consumption. The calculation formula uses the amount of burned fuel and added oil during this period. But this calculation of oil consumption, assumed by the automaker Scania, is relevant only for heavy vehicles with big engine... Calculations of the lubricant consumption in passenger cars, both with diesel and gasoline engines, has a slightly different look.

Engine oil consumption rate per 100 liters. fuel for passenger cars

For carburetor cars VAZ is considered the norm to be a consumption of 0.3 to 0.4 liters. for 100 liters of fuel.

A gasoline engine operating at the limit of its capabilities can consume from 0.4 to 0.6% at 100 hp. consumed fuel, which is approximately 400 - 600 grams of engine oil per 1000 km of run. With a diesel engine, the situation is exactly the same - the consumption of lubricant by the engine increases by 0.5%. But if these are forced turbodiesels with two turbines, then the consumption can reach up to 3% of the volume of oil poured into the engine.

Please be aware that oil consumption rates significantly increase for vehicles after overhaul and in service more than five years.

The average indicator of the engine oil consumed by the engine after a run of 150 thousand km is 0.35 - 0.55 liters.

Method for determining oil consumption

Oil level on the dipstick

Determination of the actual value of the specific consumption of engine oil for waste is carried out with a mileage of 200-300 km. During the test drive the car must be technically sound. The oil level in the crankcase must be between the "MAX" and "MIN" marks on the engine dipstick. Before the test run, it is necessary to warm up the engine, the oil temperature should be 80-85 ° C. Drain the oil on a level surface. It should drain from the pallet within 15 minutes. For the accuracy of the result, it is advisable to determine not the volume, but precisely the weight, since the amount of lubricant remaining in the filter can be found only by weighing it.

How to use the calculator

One of the main roles in this calculation is played by the volume of fuel burned and the volume of operating oil, as well as the type of engine. It is with respect to this volume and the specifics of the work that the specific oil consumption is calculated.

To calculate the specific oil consumption in the engine, you need the following data:

1. In the field "fuel" - enter the average fuel consumption in liters, per 1,000 km. mileage (by default and based on the calculated formulas it is 100 liters);
2. In the field "oil" - the volume of oil that is regulated by the manufacturer as required when filling;
3. Select the type of engine and mark if the machine has been in operation for more than 5 years
4. Click "calculate".

Please note that the results of the calculator calculation permissible norm engine oil consumption is a common case and for some engines (assumed by the specifics of the design) may be inaccurate and need to be adjusted.

Such a calculation calculator can be an indispensable tool for calculating the consumption rate of lubricants intended for the operational accounting of the specific consumption of engine oil when justifying the need for them. After all, if not all, then many motorists are quite alarming about the consumption of oil in the engine. This service will show if you fit into the nominal values. If not, then you will have an objective reason to look for the causes and possible problems.

What's the bottom line

That is, if the engine is in order, then it practically does not take oil, and you will not need to top up until the next change. Its level will be within the permissible limits on the dipstick (within the min / max marks). But there are cases when the manufacturer indicates consumption rates for a specific power unit (some), then its refilling is considered natural and is not a malfunction, but on average it does not exceed 1-2 glasses from replacement to replacement.

It is important to understand that the harder the engine runs, the more oil burns in it. So, for example, the higher the number of revolutions, the more oil will remain in the cylinders of the car engine. Although one should not forget not only about the engine operating mode, but also about its design. And you should not neglect the tolerances of engine oils and fill in fuels and lubricants of dubious quality.

When checking the oil level, a natural question that arises for most motorists is where does it disappear and is everything in order with the "heart" of our car - the engine. Most motorists consider it normal if you do not have to add oil from replacement to replacement ( between the marks on the dipstick min and max usually 1 liter). For example: you have taken for yourself an oil change period every ten thousand kilometers, your car, or rather an engine, will take no more than 100 grams per 1000 km.

It's no secret that when the engine is running, no matter how ideal it would be, a certain amount of oil burns out. In any engine, oil losses will still be, no matter what you do, our main task is to achieve minimum, optimal losses for our engine - if you top up, then the minimum. That is, it will approach the ideal operating mode of the engine, in which losses occur only from the combustion of residues on the cylinder walls. And with such losses you cannot do anything, alas, this is the purpose of our oil - to cover all the inner surfaces of the motor with a film and prevent dry friction. The oil film is burned together with the fuel mixture in the cylinder, thus oil consumption is a completely natural process. In the era of turbo engines, this issue has become relevant for engines with low mileage.

Manufacturers honestly indicate the oil consumption when the engine is running, but at the same time they are a little cunning, indicating the maximum possible. For example, the Audi company, in the instruction manual of one popular model, indicated an oil consumption of 1 liter per 1000 km. How do you like it ?! What will happen to our wallet in this case? From life - During normal operation, most engines consume (consume) 100-200 grams of oil for every 1000 km.

Reasons for the consumption of engine oil in an internal combustion engine:

Exceeding the maximum oil level.

The engine oil level in the engine is above the norm (the norm is between the min and max mark on the dipstick) - an increase in the volume, oil pressure in the engine - the release of excess engine oil through the crankcase ventilation. All this leads to an increase in consumption - loss of engine oil, formation of carbon deposits on the piston crown, the inner surface of the combustion chamber, premature exit out of service exhaust system, exhaust gases become more toxic - CO ... The manufacturer knowingly designing, testing and adjusting the engine to optimal parameters (characteristics, resource), determines the minimum and maximum volume lubricant... Well, and a purely practical question - why buy more engine oil than is required for replacement ?!

Possible leakage (oil leakage).

The simplest at first glance, easily identifiable - the cause of engine oil consumption - is a leak. In principle, everything is clear - if there is oil on the engine, you need to change the gaskets, oil seals and go and go. Here are examples of the most common causes of engine oil leaking from an engine:

Engine oil - base oil and a set of additives giving the base oil the required properties. In the world, base manufacturers are dozens of times less than lubricants manufacturers.

Sami: Changing the engine oil

Reasons for oil combustion: the oil used is not suitable for the parameters this engine; wear of valve stem seals; wear of piston (oil scraper) rings; development of cylinders; high pressure of crankcase gases.

• Gasket valve cover;
• Cylinder head gasket (cylinder head);
• Oil seals camshaft and crankshaft (s);
• Oil pan gasket;
• Rear crankshaft oil seal (at the transmission input);

Valve cover gasket.

The valve cover is located at the top of the motor. Leakage through the valve cover gasket is the most harmless, that is, the amount of leaving engine oil is minimal. The cause of the leak is the natural aging of the gasket or poor-quality repair of the motor in which the gasket was damaged. Definition: Leaks on the outer side walls of the engine. If the gasket is not damaged, it is enough to tighten the mounting bolts (nuts).

Cylinder head gasket.

Leaking through the cylinder head gasket is one of the most dangerous engine oil leaks. In most cases, a hidden leak, the gasket is damaged between the cylinder block and the cooling system. In this case, part of the engine oil will gradually displace the coolant, part of the coolant will penetrate into the engine, which significantly reduces the service life. Definition: turbidity of the coolant, foaming of engine oil.

Camshaft and crankshaft oil seals.

"It flows like a bucket" in our case, this is the only way to characterize this type of leak - the maximum possible expense oil for all possible damage. Definition: traces of oil, grease on the inner surface of the crankcase or the bottom of the engine.

Rear crankshaft oil seal.

It is found in most cases on cars with exorbitant mileage. In most cases, due to difficulties with elimination and insignificant oil losses (minimal), most motorists continue to operate the car until the gearbox (gearbox) comes out of a standing position. To replace the oil seal in the vast majority of cars, it is necessary to disassemble the gearbox. Definition: Leaks on the transmission side.

Oil filter gasket.

Yes, we were not mistaken, engine oil leak from under the gasket oil filter occurs very often. It seems that the matter is not tricky, but it is always worth checking. One thing pleases is that to eliminate it you only need your hands and a couple of minutes of free time, you just need to squeeze.

Reasons for oil consumption. Part two.

Internal problems - caps, rings, decarbonization and other solutions.

Large oil losses through leaks (the situation described in first part of article) Is a rather rare situation, so to blame them causes of oil consumption more than 200 grams per thousand kilometers of run is somewhat naive, if there is no oil trail behind the car like Shchors. Accordingly, if the oil does not go outside, then it goes inside.

Actually, to understand where it goes, it is enough to remember the engine design. We found a great video on the net (sorry, not from Honda, but this does not diminish its attractiveness in any way), explaining the composition of parts and the principle of engine operation much better and faster than any textbook, and we suggest you watch it before continuing the article further.

As you can see from this video, the heart of the motor is the combustion chamber , in which all the processes take place that "revive" the engine, turning it from a set of spare parts into a device that can move the car. It is to this “heart” that oil in a “tired” car flies away, burning there and turning into smoke. By the way, it is smoke that serves as a criterion for determining a car that burns oil. And again, many car owners often come to the service with a riddle that sounds something like this: "where does the oil go if there is no leak and there is no smoke either." At the same time, they proudly “gas” at the entrance, demonstrating either its complete absence or a weak haze, which is difficult to suspect of anything. But, unfortunately for the car owner, we know the answer and show him where the oil is spent.

Here it should be understood that the characteristic gray (blue-gray) smoke manifests itself well only on a loaded engine, almost completely disappearing in neutral, or parking gear! Think your car is special, it eats oil and doesn't smoke? Ask someone to get behind the wheel and get in another car and drive your own. Almost certainly, when accelerating, or when changing gears, you will see how your car smokes. This is not to say that it is normal, but it is natural, it is just time for the engine to “see a doctor” for repair, which will eliminate the ingress of oil into the combustion chamber.

But it can get there in two ways and in three possibilities:

2.through the gaps between piston rings and cylinder walls

3. through both paths at once.

Valve seals, - mechanical rubber goods. serving to seal the clearance of the valve stems so that the oil present in the cylinder head does not enter the combustion chamber through them. The caps are, in fact, the simplest stuffing boxes operating in an extremely aggressive environment, the essence of which is the constant reciprocating movements of the valve, erasing the surface of the caps, which leads to their wear. However, the caps in Honda vehicles can travel over 100,000 km without any problems. Replacing them, the operation is not the most difficult, but quite responsible. Technically, it is possible to replace the valve stem seals without removing the cylinder head, right on the machine. Such repair, although it represents a special form of unconventional relationship with the car, is nevertheless quite cheap, since it only requires the right number of required caps (8 or 16, while the intake and exhaust caps are different!) Costing about $ 3-5 per piece, as well as a master who agrees to this procedure, who will take about $ 70-150 for his work, depending on the car model and the engine installed on it.

The problem with this operation is that, according to statistics, a lot of oil usually does not leave through the caps - the productivity of piston rings in the same operation is a much higher percentage, therefore, if the oil consumption is more than 500 grams per thousand kilometers, - it is better not to spend money on replacing the caps, but to think about more complex repairs - replacing the rings.

The piston rings, by themselves, are very important element normal engine operation. They are made in such a way that in a cold state, they are mobile and move freely enough in the grooves on the piston intended for them, while the edges of the ring do not touch, leaving a gap that is approximately 8-11 mm by eye. This clearance (lock), as well as the clearance along the ring height, is essential for normal engine operation. expanding during operation, the ring becomes almost a monolith, merging with the piston itself into a single unit that slides backlash-free along the cylinder walls. Thus, compression is achieved in the engine, on which the efficiency of its work directly depends. The rings themselves are divided into two types - compression (two or three upper rings) and oil scraper rings, - a lower compound ring with a separator. The task of the compression rings is to create compression, the task of the oil scraper rings is to remove excess oil from the cylinder walls while the engine is running, leaving just as much as is necessary for the normal operation of the engine, but not allowing the compression rings to “throw” excess oil into the combustion chamber. All this happens constantly and at a very high speed. It took you 10 seconds. to read this paragraph, during this time a serviceable engine running on idle about 100 times he tried to throw oil into the combustion chamber, and 100 times this was prevented by the working oil scraper rings. When driving, this process is accelerated up to 1000 times in the same time, that is, as you understand, the load is constant, and very serious.

What happens to the rings when they wear? The aging process of rings can be divided into three different directions. First, the outer side of the compression ring is erased, rubbing against the cylinder wall, which causes a gap between the wall and the ring. Secondly, there is a process of erasure and thickness of the compression ring, that is, it becomes thinner and dangles more freely in the piston groove. This is fraught with the effect of a water pump - thinned compression rings, using the gap between the wall and the cylinder, begin, like a pump, to throw oil into the combustion chamber with enviable constancy, which leads to the greatest expense oils from all possible options... And, finally, thirdly, when using low-quality oil, or with long change intervals, the oil acquires the properties of coke - soot, which settles on the parts, turns to stone. Moreover, it settles in the first place where it is easiest for him to create himself - on the oil scraper rings, which, naturally, being captured from solid coke, stop working completely, and this entails all the above problems at once.

The end effect of this whole process is a high oil consumption (about 1 or more liters per 1000 km), accompanied by a fairly even and stable compression (about 12 per cylinder), which is kept due to the presence of oil on the cylinder walls. By the way, it is for this reason (wear of the rings) that cars can start badly in winter - until you sprinkle oil on the cylinder wall through the spark plug channel - the car will not start!

What to do in a situation with high oil consumption due to wear of the rings? One of the options for solving the problem for modern motorists is offered by manufacturers of auto chemical goods. Currently on the market great amount all kinds of drugs for decarbonization (i.e. elimination of the very coke that paralyzes the operation of the oil scraper rings) of the engine. Their cost differs sometimes several times, depending on the miraculousness of each specific sample. However, our personal opinion, decoking, is a procedure that should be done only if you have a spare engine in mind, or if money has already been set aside for normal engine repairs, and here's why.

The decarbonizing agent is an extremely aggressive substance. To understand how aggressive it is, imagine that in order to remove the coke mechanically, sometimes you need tools such as an awl (for punching coked holes in the piston), and the rings themselves often break when trying to free them from coke with a knife blade or a cutter. “Quality” coke is difficult to take with coarse sandpaper or even a special file. And in the case of the drug, the dissolution of these deposits with the help of chemistry is promised. What about oxygen sensorsthat stand on the exhaust tract, sometimes costing $ 400-500 apiece (and there are two of them on most cars)? But what about the catalyst, which is in the same place, costing more than $ 1000, which will definitely take a hit upon itself after starting a newly decoked engine ?! The consequences of such a procedure can be very expensive for the owner of a modern car, technically more complex than a Zhiguli.

In addition, - decarbonization cannot help the problem of worn-out compression rings in any way - they will not recover on their own. By the way, quite often, after the decarbonization procedure, engines with very high mileage, I begin to devour oil simply with cans, although before decoking the consumption was more or less tolerable. It turns out that sometimes the coke can play a "positive" role, fixing the compression ring in the groove, preventing it from dangling, in order to avoid the "pump" effect. But after decarbonization, the released ring begins to “walk” at the landing site in any direction, ensuring uninterrupted oil supply to where it should not be at all, that is, to the combustion chamber! Therefore, our opinion is de-coking for modern cars, the procedure is dangerous, harmful, and stupid, and it should only be carried out if you really want to spend more money. For those who do not want to waste money and are going to drive the car further, it is still recommended to change the rings.

The operation itself to replace the rings is not so difficult and difficult - it is enough to remove Cylinder head , pallet, pull out the pistons together with the connecting rods, remove the old rings, put new ones and assemble everything in the reverse order. The problem is the cost of this repair and the associated operations.

Many who do not know all the intricacies of this work, lay in the budget of the event four key expenditure items: rings, caps (as they say, "at the same time"), cylinder head gasket (it must be changed unambiguously) and the cost of the work, which most garage craftsmen estimate at $ 150-200. However, it should be remembered that in the process of replacing the rings, the engine defect is inevitably going on, so almost certainly you will also have to spend money on connecting rod bearings (one original insert costs about $ 20-30, and eight of them are needed), grinding in the valves (in fact, very a responsible operation, the quality of which determines the performance of the car) oil change, antifreeze replacement, replacement of most of the sealing rubber in the engine, sometimes grinding of the cylinder head and replacement of the timing belt is required ... That is, the budget of the event can grow several times. But, in the end, we get a car with a practically new engine, which, if serviced by a good master, can run about 100,000 km without any problems!

It should also be said about the materials used in the repair. In most vehicles it is possible to make a “parity” list of required parts, consisting of both original and duplicate parts. This can significantly reduce the cost of repairs, with minimal loss in quality. So, most Honda cars can be offered to use, instead of the original liners, matched by color, expensive and almost never available, liners from Taiho, the supplier of the Honda conveyor. They do not have a color mark, which, of course, can affect the reliability of the node, but the less loaded the engine, the further this prospect of unreliability.

The same can be said about piston rings - expensive original ones ($ 40 per set per piston) can be easily replaced with a duplicate of Rikken or NPR, which run quite well in lightly loaded engines.

Whatever we recommend to save on - caps (there are good duplicates, but for reliability it is better to use the original), cylinder head gasket, all gaskets and seals, as well as a timing belt. It is better to put these parts only original, in order to avoid reopening.

We would also highly discourage putting duplicate parts in cars whose engine is designed to work under heavy conditions - all SIR, TYPE R, and other near-sport versions of Honda cars. This, of course, does not apply to third-party special tuning kits.

At the end of this article, I would like to say that the main difficulty in this whole process is not the selection of spare parts, but the search for a good master who can do all the work responsibly and professionally. The quality of training of modern "minders" is very different - a master can work with Zhiguli all his life, but this does not make him a repair master, say, Toyota. Likewise, a person who has specialized in mitsubishi engines cannot be considered a Honda engine repairman, and vice versa. Specialization of the master is the main guarantee quality repair engine. Therefore, if your car consumes oil, and you are already tired of constantly adding it, contact a good specialist who will tell you what is cheaper, to repair the engine, or maybe even replace it (there are a lot of offers of contract engines on the market, especially for right-handed cars). The main thing - do not despair - everything is being repaired, the only question is how much it will cost!

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