no difference in what, by ear and by the tachometer, retire! and it is better to visit a specialist and give him $ 10!

there is a special device for setting the lead angle, it is better to go to the service, make a mistake and spend more money on fuel consumption.

more like glow ignition (wrong plugs or crappy gasoline)

all clear! The slider is spinning clockwise, and so turn the distributor counterclockwise what would be earlier and for what would be later!

How should I know?

If you go to the service station there, they will put up the device, detonation will torture you by eye and you will burn off the fuel.

Moves counterclockwise

How to set the ignition of a VAZ 2106 at home

Poor dynamics, as well as overheating of the VAZ 2106 engine, can be signs of not only engine coking or problems with spark plugs, but also indicate an incorrectly set ignition. Sometimes this problem is accompanied by a ringing in the engine, which is heard at low as well as at medium speed. Novice drivers, as a rule, have no idea how to set the ignition of a VAZ 2106, so most of them immediately turn to specialists for help. There is no need for this, and today you will be convinced that you can easily set the ignition with your own hands. You do not need special devices to work.

How to set the ignition on a VAZ 2106 - step by step instructions

1. Before you start, you need to warm up the engine to operating temperature, this is about 80-90 °.
2. Then, without turning off the engine, open the hood and with a key on "13" loosen the nut securing the retainer clip of the distributor. Turn the distributor and watch the increase in engine speed, when they become the most stable and high, tighten the nut.
3. After that, get behind the wheel and accelerate the car to 60 km / h, having driven several kilometers along the road, after reaching the required speed, turn on the 4th speed, then sharply press the gas pedal. If at the same time the motor begins to gain momentum, we can conclude that the ignition is set correctly. If you hear a knock of fingers or claps (engine detonation), you have an incorrect ignition, it is also called early. If you feel that the engine revs very slowly, you have a late ignition.

1. After determining the type of ignition just exposed, stop and reopen the hood.
2. Loosen the distributor nut and turn it depending on what kind of ignition you have. If you have an early ignition, rotate the distributor counterclockwise a few degrees, if later - clockwise.
3. Get behind the wheel again and check the car in motion. The adjustment should be made until you get the desired result, correctly set, the ignition can be counted if at a speed of 60 km / h fingers knock no more than two times.

Now that you know how to set the ignition of the VAZ 2106, I hope you can easily adjust it on your car. Thank you for your attention, check back often.

Useful video on how to set the ignition for any cylinder:

To the main

IGNITION REGULATION BY TRAMBLER. (MANUAL!) Where to turn it.

In fact, everything is very simple .. first you need to find out where the distributor shaft rotates when the engine is running. It is not difficult to do this on any car brand; you need to remove the cover from the ignition distributor. and crank the engine with a starter or roll the car by first engaging the forward gear. Once the direction of rotation is figured out, adjusting the ignition timing is just a matter of technology. Turning the distributor body in the direction opposite to the rotation of the slider is a decrease in the ignition timing, and vice versa, turning in the direction of rotation of the slider is an increase in the ignition timing. Now you can twist. boldly 🙂

You need to go to the service, everyone there knows

On the run of the slider - later, against the run - earlier

Clockwise - the angle increases, counter-decreases.

Well, you give it! They are both clockwise and counterclockwise. Put the first piston in the top dead, the mark on the crankshaft will coincide. (-) from the engine compartment lamp to the tramler capacitor. (when the first piston was exposed, I saw where the tramler was turning, and now in the other direction) turn the tramler with the ignition on until the lamp lights up, at the time of ignition there is a spark. The ignition order can be determined by removing the valve cover, according to the valves. (turning the crankshaft.)

What you need to turn in the distributor to adjust the ignition timing.

the distributor itself, there is a scale on the side of it, you release the bolt and twist it. aside, plunge ahead of the curve towards the minus at a later date. and if you write 0 in this case, buy a book on your car from the publishing house "behind the wheel" there everything is clearly detailed with pictures, how to assemble, how to disassemble, how to adjust, it is impossible not to understand. I started with them myself

The distributor itself. Pictures are on the fence.

Twist the distributor itself, but before turning, you need to decide in which direction the crankshaft rotates, depending on how the engine is on your car, well, for example, a VAZ nine, if you stand facing the distributor from the driver's side, then turn the distributor to the left you will set the ignition later, to the right, respectively earlier, but on the distributor itself there is a region - the marking on the body is a mark in the form of a stick on the left, minus is drawn to the right of it, plus, here on the right side is an early ignition region, a late field, but despite this you are in the early ignition You can turn to the right and place even earlier. well, something like this, using the example of a nine, the distributor itself is screwed on 3 nuts, release them and twist

Nothing complicated. I did this: I blasted a cartridge with a lamp, + at the lamp I threw it on the distributor, - to the ground. And twisted. The lamp is on - the ignition is on. Try it. Maybe without pictures it will be clear.

The serviceability of the runner or the distributor rotor can be checked in several ways. Usually, doubts fall on this element in the event that there is no spark on all spark plugs. Before diagnosing the slider, it will need to be removed.

A device feature called a slider

The slider is located in the ignition distributor. You can find it right under the lid. By their design, runners are fairly simple devices, consisting of plates (central and spacer). Despite the fact that the models of the distributor sliders are different, the design is the same for everyone, similar.

These devices have an important sparking function. We can say that the proper operation of the internal combustion engine directly depends on the slider.

You should know that the distributor rotor is a part of old cars equipped with an engine carburetor system. The slider is made of plastic, has a high-voltage contact inside. During the functioning of the distributor, its rotation, the contact of the slider directly contacts the contacts of the cover. Thus, the spark that is so necessary for the car is exhibited.

Technically speaking, the distributor rotor is needed to transmit high voltage current. The transmission goes from the ignition coil to the spark plugs through the armored wires.

The rotor is fixed directly to the distributor drive (shaft), and the rotation is set in such a way that there are 2 crankshaft revolutions per 1 rotation of the slider. It is in this way that the discharge of the discharge to the candles is ensured in a strictly defined order.

On the distributor drive, the slider is fixed rigidly so that it does not jump off when the shaft rotates. During rotation, the lateral contact of the rotor contacts the KG (contact group) pressed into the distributor cover.

Interesting. The distributor cover is in the same position regularly. It does not move, but the slide contact, "running" next to the cover electrodes, forms an alternating and short-term electric arc. This also explains the transmission of the discharge.

On some cars, ignition systems have two working contacts of the slider. This is, in principle, a working classic Twin Spark ignition scheme of the Italian company Fiat. One of the contacts is implemented closer to the center, the other - as far as possible. In this way, the contacts correspond to the lid electrodes, packaged according to the same principle. And most importantly: such a scheme ensures complete isolation of the CG from each other.

Twin Spark is considered one of the first systems used to efficiently burn fuel in a car combustion chamber. The system is distinguished by its simplest design, but very effective and economical.

Types of faults

As a rule, if the distributor slider is in order, then the motor starts the first time, without any problems. But when difficulties are observed with the plant, this indicates a damaged or punctured rotor (provided that the problems are not in something else).

The most common malfunction of the distributor runner is its breakdown. It can be external or internal. Obviously, the outer one is determined by noticeable signs - a black mark, the inner one must be checked by the presence of a spark (in detail below).

Breakdown results from channel metallization. For preventive purposes, the metallization should be checked regularly. This is done using a multimeter or other similar device. The channel is checked at the moment of resistance. The probes of the device are connected to the place of the slider where there is doubt about the breakdown.

You should be aware that the spark can leave through the formed channel either completely or partially.

Methods for checking the distributor slider

The first method for checking the slider is suitable for all device models.

The element is checked if there is a spark on the main armored conduit. In other words, you need to check if there is voltage on the main wire of the coil. If not, then the cause of the problem should be looked for in the coil, wire, but not in the rotor.

The first thing to do is to remove the distributor cap:

• The cover is fixed with 2 latches. They will need to be unfastened with a screwdriver or by hand.
• Then pull the cover up and towards you.
• Be sure to disconnect the wires (for safety).

A slider enters our field of view. The check is carried out as follows:

• The rubber cap is displaced from the main armored wire of the ignition coil. Thus, the contact of the armored wire is exposed.

• Now it is necessary to bring the copper contact of the armored wire to the central plate of the rotor.
• Turn on the ignition and turn the internal combustion engine.

If discharges of electric current follow, that is, between the contact of the armored wire and the central plate a spark will strike, then the rotor is broken. It will need to be replaced or repaired (more about repairing a broken slider below).

If there is no discharge between the contact of the armored wire and the central plate, the check must be continued.

The next stage of verification will imply the removal of the slider itself. It comes out easily, just pull it up. Here's what to do next:

• Take some wire, strip its end and wrap it around the spacer plate of the removed slider.
• Strip the other end of the wire and fix it to ground.
• In the same way, described above, bring the tip of the reel armored wire to the central plate of the runner.

In this case, a spark should already appear between the tip and the plate. Otherwise, if it is not there, this will indicate a breakdown of the noise suppression resistor connecting the two rotor plates. The solution is the same - replace the slider with a working one.

You can try to repair a broken element like this:

• Insert any dielectric (dielectric material: polyethylene, mica from a cigarette pack, etc.) into the slider (removed) from the back side.

It's important not to overdo it. The layer of dielectric material inserted into the inside of the runner should not be too thick. Otherwise, on the shaft, during rotation, this material will interfere.

Dielectric will help you get to the first car service or auto store. In any case, the broken slider will have to be replaced with a new, working one.

You can also temporarily reanimate an element with a damaged noise suppression resistor. But for these purposes, only those rotor models are suitable for which the suppression resistors are removable.

The resistor is held by a spring. It can be removed with the tip of a screwdriver by slightly pressing from below.

So, here's what to do:

• Pull out the resistor.
• Wrap it in foil from a cigarette pack. Be sure to wrap both ends like a candy wrapper.
• Reinsert the resistor.

There are other known methods for checking the slider. For example, many motorists, although only the most experienced, are able to determine the malfunction of the slider by the shade of the spark plug color. So, if the shade is yellowish, the slider is faulty. On the contrary, if he is a worker, the tint should be blue.

It is also possible to determine the malfunction of the slider by the operation of the internal combustion engine. He is not always just "silent" and will not start. It happens that when the rotor is broken, the motor can be started, but it functions unevenly, its power decreases, and fuel consumption increases.

The state of the contacts is a "painful point" of the rotor, however, and of the distributor itself with its elements. In modern vehicles, the distributor and rotor, as such, are generally absent. As for the owners of cars equipped with a distributor, they can only recommend one thing - to regularly keep the slider and other elements of the distributor clean. And if carbon or oxide forms on the contacts, clean it with a fine sandpaper.

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also on the cover of the distributor there is usually an arrow indicating the direction of rotation

bullshit. ; - ((

for Ufa engines, the distributor slider rotates counterclockwise.
those. rotating the distributor body for an hour. arrow - put
for an earlier ignition.

and turning counterclockwise - later ignition.

It's no secret that the work of gasoline and diesel engines is based on the combustion of an air-fuel mixture. Forming in a carburetor or injector, it enters the cylinders, after which it ignites and the heat energy pushes the pistons that drive the motor shafts. As a result, the car goes. The engine operation algorithm is very well established, however, for its correct organization, not only the timely supply of fuel to the cylinders is important. The process of sparking is also important in this system, which is achieved using the ignition system of the machine. One of the main components in it is the distributor, which supplies a spark to the spark plug of the cylinder where the piston is currently reaching the desired position. We will talk in more detail about the work of this particular part of the machine and its features today.

The principle of operation of the distributor

As it became clear from the introduction of today's article, the distributor (also called the ignition interrupter-distributor) is a very important element of the ignition system of many cars. Its main task is to send the generated spark into the engine cylinders. At the same time, a spark is supplied to each cylinder at different times, which is associated with the chaotic movement of their pistons. And as you know, to ignite the fuel mixture, the piston must be at top dead center (to be honest, the fuel explosion occurs a moment before the piston takes this position).

In order to understand the general principle of operation of the distributor, let's consider the full cycle of its functioning. In a simplified version, it looks like this:

1. It all starts with the fact that the motorist turns the key in the ignition lock, thereby giving a command to the carburetor or injector to supply fuel to the cylinders;
2. Then, at the moment the engine starts, the starter pushes the crankshaft flywheel. The latter, by interacting with the sparking system (mainly with the switch), provokes the appearance of a spark on the ignition coil;
3. At the same time, the crankshaft sends a signal to the distributor device that it should start working. After that, the contacts of the unit alternately close and open, thereby transmitting a spark to each specific cylinder exclusively when the piston reaches the top dead center. Direct regulation of the spark supply occurs due to the fact that the distributor interacts with the crankshaft and, through simple operations, receives the necessary information from it.

In addition to the competent distribution of the current, the distributor clearly reacts to changes in the intensity of the fuel supply to the engine by adjusting the ignition timing. This is due to the fact that the device is connected either to the intake manifold or directly to the carburetor / injector, but we will talk about this and other functions of the mechanism in question later.

Note! The principle of operation of the engine distributor described above is as simple as possible. The direct interaction of the unit with the same ignition coil or fuel system is much more complicated from a physical point of view. However, since we are all not physicists, but motorists, we only need to know the generalized algorithm of how the distributor works.

Trambler device

The distributor device is a whole set familiar to all elements of the car ignition system. A typical unit of such a formation consists not only of a spark distributor, but also of an ignition coil that forms this very spark. Less often, a switch is introduced into this system, but, as a rule, it is still taken out as a separate element of the system.

Going deeper into the consideration of the construction of the node, we note the following components:

• The distributor drive, represented by a conventional rotor. Engages with the motor shaft, thereby starting the sparking system and monitoring it;
• The ignition coil constantly interacts with both the distributor elements and the switch. Forms a spark and transfers excess current to a capacitor for storage or further distribution throughout the vehicle system;
• The distributor capacitor, receiving current from the ignition coil for "storage" and, if necessary, capable of being controlled by the switch. Accumulates excess charge for use in the vehicle system;
• Armored wires that ensure the interaction of system elements and the transmission of current in it;
• A distributor slider or a special sensor that receives a spark from the ignition coil and distributes it between the cylinders. A typical distributor scheme assumes that this distributor is placed at the top of the unit and high-voltage wires go to the spark plugs from it;
• Vacuum octane corrector or similar unit that monitors the flow and quality of the fuel supplied to the cylinders. On different versions of the distributors, it can be represented by very different mechanisms, but often it is based on vacuum compression and is always connected to the fuel supply system. That is, the more the air-fuel mixture is injected, the earlier the distributor transmits a spark to the spark plugs so that all the fuel burns out with maximum efficiency.

In addition to the distributor elements described above, it is worth highlighting the auxiliary nodes that are necessary to build a single system. To be more precise, these elements of the device include:

• First, the contacts of the distributor. Perhaps, one of the main functions is performed by the contact group of the distributor, which ensures the interaction of its components;
• Secondly, the distributor bearing. It increases the resource of the rotor mechanism, which significantly extends the service life of the entire device;
• And thirdly, numerous distributor bushings, cams and mounts. All of them provide a uniform and reliable valve design.

Important! On modern cars, it is very rare to find a distributor. This is due to the fact that most of the models produced have electronic ignition, and there a special chip is involved in the distribution of the spark. In the system of contact and contactless ignition, the role of this unit is played by the distributor considered today.

Distributor functions and a little about its history

Summarizing today's article, we summarize the entire theory considered and highlight the main functions of the distributor. In the classical sense of this device, the distributor should:

• Initiate sparking;
• Distribute the spark over the cylinders;
• Adjust sparking for a specific engine operating mode;
• Provide accumulation of excess current in the "bobbin" (capacitor);
• Place the accumulated charge on the system.

Note that the first distributors appeared in the early 00s of the 20th century. The then principles of operation of the internal combustion engine were quite consistent with the functioning of the mechanical spark distributor. However, over time, the approaches to creating cars changed, so conventional tramblers with a slider became more and more primitive. At first, in contactless ignition systems, the Hall sensor began to actively replace them, and later, microprocessors began to be used in electronic ignition.

In addition, progress in the automotive industry has completely electronized the supply of fuel to the engine. As a result, vacuum octane correctors became useless and special sensors came to replace them in systems with electronic ignition. Given the rapid pace of development in the automotive industry, there is nothing surprising in the fact that distributors have affected only a few generations of cars, no. The majority of Russian motorists do know a similar spark distributor for the VAZ "classics". Newer models with electronic ignition are arranged in a fundamentally different way, so it will not work to find a distributor in their design.

Perhaps the most important information on today's topic has come to an end. We hope the article was useful for you and provided answers to your questions. Good luck with the maintenance and operation of the car!

If you have any questions - leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them

Interrupter-distributor of ignition- a mechanism that determines the moment of formation of high-voltage pulses in the ignition system and is used to distribute electric ignition over the cylinders of carburetor and early injection gasoline internal combustion engines.

Ignition distributor type P107 is designed to interrupt the low voltage current in the ignition coil circuit, distribute high voltage current pulses through the engine plugs and provide the required ignition moment of the mixture depending on the speed and on the engine load.

The distributor is installed above the engine cylinder head in a special bushing and bolted to it using an octane corrector plate.

The ignition distributor consists of:

• low voltage circuit breaker
• high voltage current distributor
• centrifugal and vacuum ignition timing controllers
• octane corrector

The drive shaft 1 of the distributor is connected to the shaft of the oil pump and is driven from it.

The distributor breaker consists of a steel plate 14 with a fixed contact 20, a breaker lever 18 with a movable contact 19 and a four-sided cam 4, which rotates from the distributor shaft 1 and opens the contacts with faces running on the textolite pad 21 of the lever. The surface of the cam is lubricated with a felt 24 soaked in oil, fixed on the breaker plate. The gap between the breaker contacts is adjusted by turning the eccentric 23 mounted on the breaker plate. The gap between the breaker contacts is 0.35-0.45 mm; tension force of lever spring 400-600 G.

Parallel to the contacts of the breaker, a capacitor 22 with a capacity of 0.17-0.25 microfarads is included, mounted on the distributor case.

Figure: Distributor:
1 - drive shaft; 2 - weight; 3 - low voltage terminal; 4 - cam; 5 - slider contact plate; 6 - cover; 7 - spring of contact coal; 8 - contact coal; 9 - slider; 10 - latch; 11 - weight spring, 12 - bearing; 13 - octane corrector plate; 14 - breaker plate; 15 - diaphragm; 16 - spring; 17 - thrust; 18 - breaker lever; 19 - movable contact; 20 - fixed contact; 21 - textolite pad; 22 - capacitor; 28 - eccentric; 24 - felt; 25 - oiler; 26 - adjusting nuts

The distributor roller rotates in two sliding bearings 12 pressed into the shank of the distributor housing. The bearing is lubricated with a cap oil can 25.

The high voltage current distributor consists of a runner (rotor) 9 with a contact plate 5 and a cover 6 with electrodes, which are connected by wires to the coil and spark plugs.

In the central electrode of the distributor cover, a combined coal 8 is mounted, consisting of a contact coal and a resistance, which serves to suppress interference with radio reception.

The contact combined ember under the action of the spring 7 is pressed against the contact plate of the slider. The distributor runner, rotating, transfers a high voltage current from the ignition coil through the center electrode of the cover to the side electrodes and then to the electrodes of the spark plugs in accordance with the order of operation of the engine cylinders.

The centrifugal ignition timing adjuster changes the ignition timing depending on the engine speed. On the upper end of the distributor shaft there is a plate with weights axes. Under the action of centrifugal force, the weights 2 diverge and rotate the cam 4. The springs 11 hold the weights in their original position.

With an increase in the number of revolutions of the crankshaft of the engine, the weights rotate the cam in the direction of rotation, as a result of which an earlier opening of the breaker contacts is provided, i.e., an increase in the ignition timing. With a decrease in the number of revolutions of the crankshaft of the engine, the weights, under the action of the springs, move the cam in the opposite direction, and the ignition timing decreases.

The weight of the weights and the tension force of the spring are selected in such a way as to provide a change in the ignition moment depending on the number of revolutions of the engine crankshaft in the following proportions:

• Distributor shaft revolutions per minute - Lead angle in degrees
• 500 — 5,5-8,5
• 900 — 9-12
• 1300 — 12,5-15,5
• 1700 — 16-19
• 2000 — 16-19

The vacuum ignition timing adjuster changes the ignition timing depending on the engine load. With an increase or decrease in the engine load, the vacuum in the engine intake system and, accordingly, in the cavity of the vacuum regulator body, connected by a brass tube with the carburetor mixing chamber, changes.

The body of the vacuum regulator contains a diaphragm 15 made of special fabric. The diaphragm is pivotally connected to the breaker plate by a metal rod 17. From the opposite side, a spiral spring 16 presses the diaphragm.

When the engine is running at low load, a large vacuum is created in the intake system, which causes the diaphragm to bend and pull the chopper plate with it. The chopper plate rotates with the lever against the direction of rotation of the distributor, and thus the ignition timing increases.

As the engine load increases, the vacuum in the intake system decreases, and the spring 16, pressing the diaphragm, turns the chopper plate in the direction of rotation of the distributor. As a result, the ignition timing is reduced. The force of the spring is selected in such a way as to provide the required change in the ignition moment depending on the change in the engine load. Below is the characteristic of the vacuum ignition timing controller:

• Vacuum in mm Hg. st - Ignition advance angle in degrees
• 80 — 0-2
• 120 — 3-5,5
• 150 — 5,5-8
• 180 — 7-10
• 300 — 7-10

The octane corrector is designed to change the ignition timing depending on the octane number of gasoline. The higher the octane number of the gasoline used, the greater the ignition timing should be. The ignition timing is changed by turning the distributor housing by rotating the knurled nuts 26 (unscrewing one and turning the other). In this case, it is necessary to first loosen the nut of the stud fastening the octane-corrector plates together.

On the fixed plate of the octane corrector there are designations plus, i.e. ignition advance, and minus - ignition delay, which determine the direction of movement of the arrow of the movable plate. The largest advance (or lag) angle of ignition, provided by manual adjustment using an octane corrector, is 10 ° relative to the initial setting (10 ° to a.m. t.).

After setting the required ignition timing, the knurled nuts and nuts of the stud fastening the octane-corrector plate must be tightly tightened to prevent spontaneous violation of the ignition setting.

Adjusting the gap between the breaker contacts. To ensure normal operation of the ignition system, the gap between the breaker contacts must be adjusted within 0.35-0.45 mm.

Clearance adjustment procedure

Remove the distributor cover and the slider and, slowly turning the engine crankshaft with the starting handle, set cam 4 to the position where the gap between the breaker contacts is the largest, i.e. when the breaker lever pad is set at the top of the cam face. After that, with a flat probe, check the gap between the contacts. If the gap does not correspond to the value indicated above, it is necessary to loosen the locking screw and, turning the eccentric 23, set the required gap; then tighten the screw and check the gap again. Then you need to put the cover back in place and fix it with latches 10. After adjusting the gap between the breaker contacts, the correct setting of the ignition timing is violated. Therefore, the ignition setting must be checked and, if required, specified.

Setting the ignition timing

The ignition timing on the engine must be set as follows.

Unscrew the spark plug of the first (counting from the radiator) cylinder and close the hole for the spark plug in the block head with a crumpled paper plug. Next, open the sight glass cover on the clutch housing and slowly rotate the engine crankshaft with the starting handle until the compression stroke in the first cylinder begins, which is determined by pushing out the paper plug that closes the hole for the spark plug. Continuing to rotate the crankshaft of the engine, set the piston of the first cylinder to the position corresponding to the moment the spark overshoots on the spark plug electrodes (10 ° to v.m.t.), at which the МЗ mark on the flywheel (a ball pressed into the rim) coincides with the tip of the pin fixed in the sight glass of the clutch housing. In this position of the crankshaft, loosen the nut of the stud fastening the octane-corrector plate, and set the octane-corrector to the middle position, aligning the arrow of the movable plate with the zero mark of the octane-corrector scale. Then tighten the nut of the stud fastening the octane-corrector plate.

After the engine and ignition distributor are prepared, remove the distributor cover and connect a pre-tested test lamp with a voltage of 12 e with a cartridge (for example, a portable one attached to the car) with the end of one wire to terminal 3, connected to the breaker lever, and the end of the other wire to mass. Further, having loosened the bolt securing the fixed plate to the engine and turning on the ignition, turn the distributor housing counterclockwise until the breaker contacts close, press the slider 9 in the clockwise direction with your finger (to eliminate gaps in the drive mechanism) and slowly turn the housing in a clockwise direction distributor until the control lamp comes on.

To check the accuracy of setting the breaker contacts to open, you need to remove the slider and turn the cam 4 clockwise, while slightly pressing the lever 18 with your finger. In this case, the control lamp should go out or the glow of the thread should decrease. If the check shows that the ignition timing is correct, then, without changing the position of the distributor housing, it is necessary to tighten the bolt securing the distributor plate to the engine.

Then you should put in place and fix the distributor cover with latches, screw in the spark plug of the first cylinder and insert the tip of its wire into the cover terminal socket located above the distributor body terminal. Connect the wires of the remaining candles to the distributor in accordance with the order of operation of the cylinders (1-3-4-2), taking into account that the slider rotates counterclockwise. Then close the sight glass cover on the clutch housing.

If, for some reason, after installing the engine crankshaft in the position corresponding to the end of the compression stroke in the first cylinder (according to the MZ mark on the flywheel), the ignition distributor is removed, then when reinstalling it, ensure the correct position of the cam roller 4. To do this, before by installing the distributor on the engine, put the slider on the cam and turn the roller so that the contact plate of the slider is facing exactly in the direction and towards the terminal used to connect the low voltage wire. Without changing the position of the roller, insert the distributor into its socket on the cylinder head and secure it with a bolt.

After installing the distributor on the engine, it is important not to forget to connect the pipeline to the connection of the vacuum regulator chamber. It should be borne in mind that the ignition installation at the MZ mark on the flywheel with the middle position of the octane corrector provides the most advantageous power and economic indicators of the engine only if A-76 gasoline is used to power it.

When using gasoline with an octane rating of less than 76, but not less than 72 for the engine, the ignition setting must be finally adjusted while the vehicle is running after the engine has been preheated to normal operating temperature.

The most advantageous ignition advance will be one in which, during a sharp acceleration of a fully loaded car on a horizontal road from an initial speed of 30-40 km / h in direct transmission, single knocking knocks in the engine cylinders will be barely heard. If there are no knocks during intensive acceleration of the car, this means that the ignition is set late; on the contrary, the appearance of a series of successive distinct knocks indicates too early ignition.

If it is necessary to correct the setting of the ignition timing, an octane corrector is used. The ignition timing must be set with particular care, since even with small deviations in the ignition setting, gas consumption is reduced and significantly increased.

The stability of the engine, its power, fuel efficiency, etc. directly depend on the correct tuning and uninterrupted operation. Normally, on four-stroke engines, the fuel-air mixture should ignite at the end of the compression stroke, that is, just before lifting to top dead center. This ignition moment is due to the fact that the mixture takes a certain time to burn, after which the energy of the expanding gases pushes the piston down and the working stroke begins.

Late or early ignition is to be understood as the delay or advance of the ignition system in relation to the position in which the piston is in the cylinder. In other words, the spark of the spark plug is formed and ignites the fuel-air mixture not at the optimal moment when the piston approaches TDC, but sooner or later than this moment. This phenomenon is called early or late ignition. For this reason, vehicle owners, in which the possibility of self-adjustment of the UOZ (ignition timing) is implemented, often face the need to adjust the ignition.

Read in this article

How to tell if the ignition is late or early

Ignition of the working mixture of fuel and air in the cylinders with advance or delay leads to certain malfunctions in the engine. In the list of the main signs by which you can determine the incorrectly installed ignition, you should highlight:

• difficulty starting the engine;
• a tangible increase in fuel consumption;
• the engine loses throttle response, power drops;
• unstable idle operation is noted;
• responsiveness to pressing the gas pedal disappears;
• engine overheating and detonation occurs;

An incorrect ignition angle can manifest itself in the form of characteristic pops, which are given to the exhaust system, etc. It is quite obvious that further operation with a knocked-out ignition timing can lead to more serious engine damage, especially in the case of a stable knock.

The consequences of an incorrectly set ignition angle

Both later and earlier, ignition negatively affects the operation and resource of the engine. It should be added that not only power and fuel consumption depend on the correct ignition timing. If the spark does not form earlier than the prescribed time, then the pressure of the expanding gases begins to oppose the piston rising at TDC (early ignition). Ignition of the working mixture after the piston began to move downward from TDC leads to the fact that the released fuel energy "catches up" the piston and enters the outlet, rather than doing useful work (late ignition).

In the case of early ignition, the rising piston requires a large force to compress the gases formed as a result of the premature combustion of the mixture. The load on and under such conditions increases significantly.

Signs of early ignition appear as the following symptoms:

• the appearance of a metallic ringing sound during engine operation, which is localized in the area of \u200b\u200bthe cylinder block;
• idling speed is floating, the engine is unstable;
• after pressing the "gas" there is a pause, the engine does not "pull" and over-consumes fuel;

Late ignition also causes significant damage to the engine. The combustion of the mixture in this case occurs under conditions of decreasing pressure and increasing volume in the internal combustion engine cylinder. The combustion process of the fuel-air mixture itself is disrupted, which burns out during the working stroke of the piston. As a result, the signs of late ignition are:

• the engine loses power; to accelerate, you need to press hard on the gas;
• there is a significant increase in fuel consumption;
• the motor is heavily coked with deposits and carbon deposits;
• improper combustion of the mixture leads to engine overheating;

Do-it-yourself ignition timing

Correctly set ignition timing assumes the adjustment of the UOZ. It is necessary to correct the ignition angle at idle speed. It should be borne in mind that the optimal idle speed is considered to be in the range of 850-900 rpm. The angle of inclination of the ignition moment is also within a certain range from -1 (negative) to +1 (positive) degrees. The degree indicated is the degree in relation to TDC.

Most often, a stroboscope is used to set the ignition timing. This solution allows for accurate installation. If there is no device, you can also use the control lamp.

The specified lamp is connected to the positive terminal on the ignition distributor, and also connected to ground. Next, we will consider the main available ways to configure the ignition on the following example of domestic "classics":

Stroboscope ignition setting

• the engine must be warmed up before reaching the operating temperature;
• the stroboscope is connected to the on-board network;
• the fixing nut of the ignition distributor-breaker cover is unscrewed;
• the triggering signal sensor is put on the high-voltage wire of the first cylinder;
• if there is a vacuum corrector hose, you will need to remove and plug the specified hose;
• the glow of the strobe is directed to the crankshaft pulley;
• the engine starts and runs at idle;
• the distributor body is rotated;
• the position of the housing of the interrupter-distributor is fixed in such a way that the pulley mark coincides with the corresponding mark on;
• after aligning the marks, the fixing nut is tightened;

Setting the UOZ by the control light

If the method of setting the ignition by a light bulb is used, then it is necessary to turn the engine crankshaft so that the mark on the crankshaft pulley coincides with the mark on the timing cover. In this case, the slider on the ignition distributor must point to the spark plug wire of the first cylinder.

Further, the lock nut of the distributor is loosened, after which one wire from the bulb is switched with the wire that goes to the ignition coil from the distributor. The second wire from the lamp is installed to ground. Then you need to turn on the ignition and rotate the distributor housing clockwise until the control lamp stops burning. After that, you should carefully turn the distributor body back, that is, counterclockwise. Having determined the position at which the light comes on, it is necessary to fix the distributor body in this position. Fixation is done by tightening the distributor nut.

Other ways to set up and check ignition on a car

You can also set the spark ignition or independently select such an angle when the engine will work most stably and evenly. The easiest and least accurate way is to set up based on motor operation. For tuning, the engine is started, after which the lock nut of the distributor housing is loosened. Next, you need to turn the distributor housing clockwise and counterclockwise, finding a position at which the engine runs smoothly and the twentieth speed is the highest. After that, turn the breaker body a couple of degrees clockwise and tighten the distributor nut.

When setting up spark ignition, align the marks on the crankshaft pulley and timing, and the mark on the slider should point to the wire of the first cylinder. Then the nut of the distributor housing is loosened, after which the central high-voltage wire should be removed from the distributor cover.

Then the contact of the wire should be located near the "mass" (distance about 5 mm) and turn on the ignition. After that, the body of the breaker should be rotated 20 degrees clockwise. Now the body needs to be rotated back until a spark appears between the "ground" and the wire contact. In this position, the distributor body must be fixed with the breaker fixing nut.

At the end, it is necessary to check the correctness of the SPE in motion. On a warm engine, the car should be accelerated to 40-45 km / h, after which the fourth gear is turned on and the gas pedal is fully pressed. Next, you need to assess the degree of detonation. It is considered normal when, immediately after engaging the 4th gear, detonation is briefly present (2-3 seconds), but disappears with acceleration of the car. If detonation continues after acceleration, then there is a high probability of early ignition. If there is no detonation at the moment of switching on the 4th gear, then the ignition is later. In such cases, the SPD adjustment should be repeated for optimal results.

Read also

How to set the beginning of the moment of fuel injection on a diesel engine. Various ways to configure the VOB. Tips and tricks for self-tuning.

In the classic family and in later VAZ models with carburetor engines, the ignition system is based on a distributor, or distributor, about which there are hundreds of jokes and anecdotes. However, a distributor is by no means a funny thing, and read about this part, its purpose, device, principles of operation and basic faults in this article.

Purpose of the ignition distributor in a gasoline engine

All modern gasoline engines use a spark ignition system, in which the fuel / air mixture in the cylinders is ignited by an electric spark generated by spark plugs. This system is most effective for gasoline internal combustion engines, therefore it is most widely used today, including on the engines of VAZ cars.

However, the ignition system should not just ignite the combustible mixture, but do it at strictly defined times and in a coordinated manner for all cylinders - only in this case the engine will work normally and develop the rated power. In different types of engines, the problem of distributing the spark among the cylinders is solved differently: in modern power units with a fuel injection system (injectors), an ignition system with an electronic unit is used for this purpose, and in good old carburetor engines and in early models of injectors, the heart of the ignition system is distributor, also known as distributor.

The ignition distributor (distributor) is an electromechanical device that ensures the timely supply of high voltage pulses to the spark plugs in accordance with the crankshaft speed and the engine operating mode. Trambler performs several functions:

• Connecting spark plugs to the ignition coil at strictly defined times, at which the ignition of the combustible mixture in the cylinders occurs;
• Connecting the ignition coil at strictly defined times to the low-voltage circuit;
• Initial setting of the ignition timing;
• Automatic setting of the ignition timing depending on the engine speed.

Thus, the distributor is an important part of the ignition system, on the characteristics and condition of which many characteristics of the engine depend, and the operation of the power unit itself is possible only for the normal operation of the ignition distributor.

The device and principle of operation of the ignition distributor

The distributor used in carburetor engines of VAZ cars consists of several more or less independent components combined in one housing:

• High voltage interrupter (provides high voltage pulses to spark plugs;
• Low-voltage breaker (provides voltage supply from the battery or generator to the ignition coil);
• Centrifugal ignition timing adjuster;
• Octane corrector (used on early distributors);
• Vacuum regulator (or vacuum corrector) of the ignition timing (installed instead of the octane corrector on modern distributors);
• Interrupter drive shaft.

1. Roller distributor
2. Oil deflector ring
3. Washer, oil slinger
4. Ignition distributor housing
5. Capacitor
6. Wire from ignition coil to distributor
7. Oiler body
8. Eccentric octane corrector
9. Breaker cam
10. Cam lubrication wick
11. Base plate of the ignition timing
12. Ignition timing regulator weight
13. Distributor rotor
14. Side electrode with terminal for spark plug lead
15. Ignition distributor cover
16. Center terminal for wire from ignition coil
17. Center carbon electrode with spring
18. Rotor center contact
19. Resistor
20. Outer rotor contact
21. Spring
22. Spring support with stopper
23. The leading plate of the ignition timing regulator
24. Weight axis
25. Insulating sleeve
26. Textolite block of the lever
27. Breaker Lever
28. Rack with breaker contacts
29. Breaker contacts
30. Cover spring
31. Fixed interrupter plate
32. Movable breaker plate
33. Base plate
34. Roller sleeve
35. Spiral hairpin

The device described above has distributors of the classic contact ignition system. Currently, the non-contact ignition system (BSZ), which uses a distributor of a slightly different design, has become very widespread. In the BSZ distributor, in place of the low-voltage breaker, a non-contact mechanism is installed that generates low voltage pulses fed to the electronic control unit (or switch), which controls the operation of the ignition coil.

The ignition distributor has the following structure. It is based on a housing (usually made of aluminum), in the lower part of which the drive shaft comes out, and in the upper part there are breakers. A low-voltage breaker is installed directly on the housing, which consists of a fixed contact group and a cam fixed to the shaft. In the BSZ distributors, in place of the low-voltage breaker, there is a contactless mechanism for generating electrical pulses, which consists of a stationary Hall sensor and a screen with four cutouts fixed to the shaft.

Above the low-voltage breaker is a centrifugal ignition timing control mechanism. Even higher is a high-voltage breaker, its basis is a slider (or rotor), on which there are two contacts connected by a resistor. A center contact that supplies high voltage from the ignition coil and a peripheral contact that distributes this voltage to the spark plugs.

The distributor is closed with a plastic lid, in which there are five outlet tubes - the central tube serves to enter the high-voltage wire from the ignition coil, and armored (high-voltage) spark plug wires are connected to the four side tubes. Inside the tubes are contacts, which are protected from electrical breakdown due to a relatively large plastic layer. The center contact of the cover is subjected to constant friction with the center contact of the rotor, so it is made of carbon. There are also ventilation holes in the cover that remove gases formed due to arcing of the contacts.

All moving parts of the ignition distributor (rotor, cam or BSZ screen) are rigidly fixed to the shaft. The shaft on the outside (on the shank) has splines, with the help of which it engages with the inner part of the gear wheel of the drive of auxiliary units. That is, the distributor, like other units, is driven from the engine crankshaft.

The rotor of the high-voltage breaker and the contact group of the low-voltage breaker are installed in a strictly defined position, which can be adjusted with screws within certain limits. The distributor itself should have a certain position relative to the engine - only in this case the correct ignition timing will be set and the normal functioning of the entire power unit will be ensured.

On the side of the distributor, opposite the low-voltage breaker, there is either an octane corrector (in old distributors) or a vacuum ignition timing regulator (in all new distributors). Both units perform the same function - they automatically change the angle of rotation of the contact group, as a result of which there is a change in the moments of supply of pulses to the ignition coil, which, in turn, leads to a change in the ignition timing.

The vacuum ignition timing adjuster is simple. It is based on a body divided into two parts by a flexible diaphragm. On the outside, a vacuum is applied to the body, which is taken from the intake manifold, and on the back side, the diaphragm is connected to a rod, which turns the contact group of the low-voltage interrupter. The regulator works simply. As the engine speed changes, the pressure in the intake manifold changes, and hence the pressure above the regulator diaphragm. Due to the change in pressure, the diaphragm bends, and with the help of the thrust it turns the contact group clockwise or counterclockwise. Thus, the vacuum regulator provides an instant change in the ignition timing, maintaining stable engine operation in all modes.

The distributor housing is also involved in setting the ignition timing - by turning the distributor housing, the initial ignition timing is set, from which the centrifugal and vacuum regulators are then repelled during engine operation. The advance angle is set only when the engine is idling according to the instruments.

The principle of operation of the ignition distributor is also simple and straightforward. As the drive shaft rotates, the cam of the low voltage breaker and the rotor of the high voltage breaker rotate. The low voltage breaker is supplied with a low voltage from the generator, and due to the constant closing and opening of the contacts, current pulses are generated at regular intervals. These pulses go to the ignition coil, which generates high frequency current pulses - they go to the high voltage breaker of the ignition distributor. Due to the rotation of the rotor, high-voltage pulses are alternately supplied to the spark plugs of each cylinder.

If we talk about a contactless ignition system, then the principle of operation of the distributor used in it is identical, and the difference lies only in the low-voltage breaker. In the case of the BSZ, instead of the cam of the contact group, a screen with slots rotates, at a certain point next to the screen a Hall sensor is installed - it is he who generates electrical impulses. These pulses are fed to the electronic control unit, which provides the formation of high-voltage pulses by the ignition coil.

Types and applicability of VAZ distributors

Ignition distributors are used in VAZ cars with carburetor and some injection engines - these are all VAZ Classic models (2101 - 2107), some VAZ-2108 and 2109 modifications, VAZ-2121 Niva and its modifications, as well as VAZ-1111 " Oka ". More modern and all current Lada models are equipped with an electronic ignition system, so there is no distributor in them.

Regardless of the VAZ car model, one of two types of distributors can be installed on it:

• Distributor for contact ignition system (KSZ);
• Distributor of a contactless ignition system (BSZ).

The first type includes the most common VAZ tremblers of models 30.3706 (and its earlier modification R-125), the second type includes distributors 38.3706 and 40.3706 equipped with a Hall sensor. Distributors 30.3706 and 38.3706 are most often used on VAZ-2101 - 2107 and VAZ-2121 cars, and the 40.3706 valve is suitable for more modern VAZ-2108, 2109 and 21099 models.

When buying a new distributor, it is imperative to take into account the type of ignition system used on the car (contact or non-contact), and most importantly, to focus on the modification of the previously installed distributor. It is interesting to note that many car owners abandon the KSZ, installing the BSZ on their own, however, in this case, you will not only have to install a new distributor, but also equip the car with an electronic control unit (controller) and new wiring, which not everyone can do.

The main malfunctions of the ignition distributor and how to fix them

The distributor is one of the weakest links in the ignition system, which is associated with its design features and the loads that this unit is subjected to during operation.

The following external signs can indicate problems with the VAZ ignition distributor:

• The engine stopped starting for no apparent reason;
• The motor develops insufficient power in all modes;
• The engine jerks and runs unevenly;
• Increased fuel consumption.

If the rest of the engine systems are in good working order, then you should remove, disassemble and inspect the distributor for faults. The most common faults of the ignition distributor are:

• Burnt contacts on the rotor or distributor cover;
• Corrosion on contacts;
• Cracks and other mechanical damage to the cover;
• Destruction or seizure of bearings;
• Oil penetration into the distributor;
• Burnout of the resistor on the rotor;
• In BSZ distributors - Hall sensor malfunction or poor contact in its connector;
• Excessive wear of the breaker contacts;
• Incorrect connection of low and high voltage wires.

Many defective parts of the distributor can be replaced - bearings, rotor, cover, etc. However, in most cases it is easier and cheaper to install a new distributor assembly. But the distributor should not be changed if oil is found in it - this is a sign of a malfunction of the carburetor. Usually, oil enters the distributor from the engine crankcase through the oil seal if the crankcase ventilation system is malfunctioning, as a result of which excessive pressure forms in the crankcase - it is this pressure that squeezes the oil through the oil seal into the distributor. This problem is most often associated with a blockage of the channel in the carburetor, and it is solved by simply cleaning this channel. And, of course, you should clean the distributor of oil.

To remove the ignition distributor on a VAZ car, you need to do several steps (the order may differ slightly on different car models):

• Disconnect the "mass" from the battery;
• Disconnect the throttle cable from the carburetor;
• Disconnect high-voltage and low-voltage wires from the distributor, also disconnect the connector from the Hall sensor (in some cases, this will require unscrewing the bolts or unscrewing the brackets);
• Remove the tube from the fitting of the vacuum corrector;
• Set the piston of the first cylinder to top dead center according to the marks;
• Make marks on the distributor cover and the engine in order to subsequently install the distributor in the correct position (otherwise, you will have to re-establish the ignition timing);
• Unscrew the nuts retaining the distributor, then carefully pull the distributor until the end of its shaft is completely out of the engine.

After that, you can repair the ignition distributor. Installing a repaired or new distributor is carried out in the reverse order. If a new distributor is installed on the engine, then it will be necessary to make an initial setting of the ignition timing.

In the course of its work, the ignition distributor for VAZ cars does not need any special maintenance, it is only required to periodically inspect it, and at the first signs of a malfunction, repair or replace it. In this case, the motor will work reliably and efficiently, without causing problems to the car owner.