Bayan Kanatsky E. Bunko wrote: IMHO: isn't it easier to replace the belt, rollers, pump before the trip? if you are not sure that they will survive? +1. Watch your belt and never mind

Thousands of owners of 1.5-16V (by the way, me too) have washed their wheels more than once

Bayan Kanatsky E. Bunko wrote: IMHO: isn't it easier to replace the belt, rollers, pump before the trip? if you are not sure that they will survive? +1. Watch the belt and never mind. Thousands of owners of 1.5-16V (by the way, me too) have washed their wheels in the Black and White Sea more than once, and without any problems. +1.

Watch the belt and never mind. Thousands of owners of 1.5-16V (by the way, me too) have washed their wheels in the Black and White Sea more than once, and without any problems. Shes110 Hello land, have you redone yours yet?

We remake 1 5 liters 16 holes in 1 6 liters I saw in Togliatti a set of such for converting 1.5 to 1.6 16V there is a crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons and something else Meko wrote: yes, firstly I want to get rid of the bend valves, without replacing the connecting rod. at 1.6, the piston stroke is 2.1 millimeters more (sort of like that). There will be a slight loss of compression, but under 92 gasoline adaptation))) Block 124 has a 2.1 mm more height.

On block 2112 1.6 can be obtained only by increasing the piston stroke of the crankshaft and placing the piston under the offset pin. Block 124 has 2.1 mm more height. On block 2112 1.6 can be obtained only by increasing the piston stroke of the crankshaft and placing the piston under the offset pin. zolushka wrote: Oleg_e And to change the pistons, rings, crankshaft for fear of breaking the belt what is the name? Nah change it all ??

It is enough to put a piston with a groove, and, accordingly, change the rings! We remake 1 5 liters 16 holes in 1 6 liters Nah change it all ?? It is enough to put a piston with a groove, and, accordingly, change the rings!

Then increase up to 1.8 liters. Traction at the bottom of the tractor will definitely need modernization. even if you just left the salon. this rule is. with such quality components, the risk is very high. bent valves are not a sight for the faint of heart. and if the craftsman also tried to start after the belt broke, then finally the complete paragraph Pavel_ wrote: I change the belt somewhere in 20-25 thousand And is this the norm? I have a Balakovo belt on the old motor 130tyk ran from the cap to the change of the engine and you 20 tyk went crazy chtol? This is not the norm for this trembling and if I personally have such a capacity I will immediately wave the piston, patamu like nerves even more Dmitrii wrote: Tell me, what d pistons should I take? Take off the old one and it says what size and what class (you can take a class for more by one letter

And this is the norm? I have a Balakovo belt on the old motor 130tyk ran from the cap to the change of the engine and you 20 tyk went crazy chtol? This is not the norm for this trembling, and if I personally have such a capacity, I will immediately wave the piston, patamu like nerves even more Dmitrii wrote: Tell me, what d pistons should I take? Take off the old one and it says what size and what class (the class can be taken for more by one letter) Take off the old one and it says what size and which class (the class can be taken for more by one letter Dmitrii wrote: Dap will cost approximately engine bulkhead work?

What bulkhead? Personally, the transfer of pistons cost me 500r (the cost of the pistons themselves) For which bulkhead?

Personally, the transfer of the pistons cost me 500r (the cost of the pistons themselves) I can not understand that the garden is fencing ... the crankshaft is 75.6 (measure, check for hardness ... although usually everything is ok.) Inserts face value (root, connecting rod.) pistons with see 2.3 pins of the stopper rings oil seals boring of the block at 82.4 (if the 1st repair) .... honing a set of gaskets oil, antifreeze, filters sealant .... what else did I forget .... ah, yes, pick up half rings .... well, there are all sorts of little things ... for prices - go that SHOP !!! all prices are different and may differ from the truth ... aviatorrr wrote: Dmitrii wrote: Dap will cost roughly work on the engine bulkhead?

What bulkhead? Personally, the transfer of the pistons cost me 500r (the cost of the pistons themselves) That left the old cylinder head gasket and fingers? With this approach, it is better to immediately throw the engine into the trash ... On what bulkhead? Personally, the transfer of the pistons cost me 500r (the cost of the pistons themselves) That left the old cylinder head gasket and fingers?

With this approach, it is better to immediately throw out the capacity in the trash can ... That left the old cylinder head gasket and fingers? With this approach, it is better to immediately throw the engine into the trash ...

Stels_dust wrote: What left the old cylinder head gasket and fingers? Yeah, if only you carefully read the forum, then you probably knew why I changed the piston current I took the cylinder block assembly and it glitched through 2 pumpm, the partitions on the pistons burst, so I had to put new pistons so that I did not change anything else, as everything was new Yeah, if only you attentively read the forum, then you probably knew why I changed the piston current I took the cylinder block assembly and it glitched through 2 pumpm, the partitions on the pistons burst, so I had to put new pistons so that I did not change anything else as everything was new aviatorrr wrote: Stels_dust wrote: What left the old cylinder head gasket and fingers? Yeah, if only you carefully read the forum, then you probably knew why I changed the piston current I took the cylinder block assembly and it glitched through 2 pumpm, the partitions on the pistons burst, so I had to put new pistons so that I did not change anything else, as everything was new In general, if you opened the motor, then I need a new gasket ...

Yeah, if only you attentively read the forum, then you probably knew why I changed the piston current I took the cylinder block assembly and it glitched through 2 pumpm, the partitions on the pistons burst, so I had to put new pistons so that I did not change anything else as everything was new In general, if you opened the motor, then you need a new gasket for the love ... In general, if you opened the motor, then you need a new gasket for love ... Stels_dust wrote: then the love needs a new gasket ... if it is normal, then it will not get dirty Yes and what a dispute? I personally just went to scrap because of her, and its price is 100 rubles, so it’s not even a question if you don’t like the way the old one looks, then it’s not a problem to take a new one if it’s okay then it’s nefig zamarachivatsya And what a dispute? I personally just went to scrap because of her, and its price is 100 rubles, so it’s not even a question if you don’t like how the old one looks, then it’s not a problem to take a new one. ! Kulibins, look after the belt every 5.6 thousand and that's it and change it every 30 thousand and from my own experience I will say the belt is worth changing, but you should not rush with the rollers from a couple of dozen that I had experience to change the normal ones were only in two, three sets niko1us Darovinko! found me a head off a month ago, but I didn't like it. I continue to search, by the way, maybe you know where to get it, I decided to stop at 1.6, otherwise 1.7 decl is not budgetary and the resource is less.

Stels_dust wrote: I can't understand that you are fence in the garden ... the crankshaft is 75.6 (measure, check for hardness .... although usually everything is ok.) Inserts nominal (root, connecting rod.) Pistons with see 2 , 3 fingers of the ring stopper oil seals block boring at 82.4 (if the 1st repair) .... honing a set of gaskets oil, antifreeze, sealant filters .... what else did I forget .... and, yes, pick up half rings. ... well, there are all sorts of little things ... From this place, you can learn more? this is to increase the volume to 1.6, as far as I understand? What is the length of the connecting rod on a standard 1.6? Can you tell me more from this place? this is to increase the volume to 1.6, as far as I understand? What is the length of the connecting rod on a standard 1.6? Shes110 wrote: Stels_dust wrote: I can’t understand that you are fence in the garden ... the crankshaft is 75.6 (measure, check for hardness .... although usually everything is ok.) Inserts face value (root, connecting rod. ) pistons from see

2,3 fingers of the ring stopper oil seals block boring at 82.4 (if the 1st repair) .... honing a set of gaskets oil, antifreeze, sealant filters .... what else did I forget .... and, yes, pick up half rings .... well, there are all sorts of little things ... From this place, you can learn more? this is to increase the volume to 1.6, as far as I understand? What is the length of the connecting rod on a standard 1.6? the same ... 121 mm. Can you tell me more from this place? this is to increase the volume to 1.6, as far as I understand? What is the length of the connecting rod on a standard 1.6? the same ... 121 mm.

the same ... 121 mm. Stels_dust i.e. the connecting rods can be left without problems. tell me where you can buy pistons with an offset (via the Internet)? Shes110 wrote: Stels_dust i.e. the connecting rods can be left without any problems. tell me where you can buy pistons with an offset (via the Internet)? in Yandex, look for the TDMK website - there is all infa.

in Yandex, look for the TDMK website - there is all infa. Connoisseurs, tell me pliz. There is a standard 2111 motor. We put the knee 75.6, head 2112, TDMK pistons with a 2.3mm offset finger.

At the output we have 1.6 16 valve. So here's the question: If the belt breaks the valves pipets? Guys, I've done this to myself !!!

I mean, put the piston from 1.6. It just cost me a little more, somewhere around 4000 rubles for spare parts + work. But now the valve does not bend. They say 1000 can be poured 92nd benz, but I still drink 95th for reliability. Interestingly, the power of the engine has changed from this or not?!

Pavel239 wrote: Guys, I did this to myself !!! I mean, put the piston from 1.6. It just got me a little more expensive, about 4000 rubles for spare parts + work. But now the valve does not bend

They say you can pour the 92nd benz, 2000 but I still drink the 95th for reliability.

Interestingly, the power of the engine has changed from this or not?! less has become a little less has become a little Antone wrote: Experts, tell me pliz. There is a standard 2111 motor. We put the knee 75.6, head 2112, TDMK pistons with a 2.3mm offset finger. At the output we have 1.6 16 valve.

So here's the question: If the belt breaks the valves pipets? standard 2111 - 8 valve, without replacing the head and the rest - you can't make a 16 valve, i.e. in addition to the head, you still need a receiver, wiring, candle wires, etc. crap. you may have to replace the connecting rods if they are press-fit. valves will be loved by a piper. The block is the same - not high. standard 2111 - 8 valve, without replacing the head and the rest - you can't make a 16 valve, i.e. in addition to the head, you still need a receiver, wiring, candle wires, etc. crap. you may have to change connecting rods if they are press-fit. valves will be loved by a piper. The block is the same - not high.

Stels_dust, I understand that I still need a head, receivers, brains and so on. Those. Are there no valve grooves on TDMK pistons? t: bold "\u003e Stels_dust, I understand that you still need a head, receivers, brains, etc. That is, there are no grooves for the valves on the TDMK pistons?

Antone wrote: Stels_dust, I understand that I still need a head, receivers, brains and so on. Those. Are there no valve grooves on TDMK pistons? How to understand no? there is. There are also 1.5 pistons on the stock, but the oppression is all the same. It's just that they are deeper at 1.6 drain, but there is also oppression.

Counterbores on 1.6 stock are not a panacea. How to understand no? there is. There are also 1.5 pistons on the stock, but the oppression is all the same. It's just that they are deeper at 1.6 drain, but there is also oppression.

Counterbores on 1.6 stock are not a panacea. Stels_dust wrote: Antone wrote: Stels_dust, I understand that I still need a head, receivers, brains, and so on. Those. Are there no valve grooves on TDMK pistons? How to understand no? there is.

How to understand no? there is. There are also 1.5 pistons on the stock, but the oppression is all the same. It's just that they are deeper at 1.6 drain, but there is also oppression. Counterbores on 1.6 stock are not a panacea. So you don't seem to hear about such cases on the drain 1.6 16 bugs?

So you don't seem to hear about such cases on the drain 1.6 16 bugs? Antone wrote: Stels_dust wrote: Antone wrote: Stels_dust, I understand that another head is needed, receivers, brains and so on

Those. Are there no valve grooves on TDMK pistons? How to understand no? there is.

There are also 1.5 pistons on the stock, but the oppression is all the same. It's just that they are deeper at 1.6 drain, but there is also oppression. Counterbores on 1.6 stock are not a panacea. So you don't seem to hear about such cases on the drain 1.6 16 bugs?

From my personal experience - bent on 3 machines 1.6 16v stock. How to understand no? there is. There are also 1.5 pistons on the stock, but the oppression is all the same.

It's just that they are deeper at 1.6 drain, but there is also oppression. Counterbores on 1.6 stock are not a panacea. So you don't seem to hear about such cases on the drain 1.6 16 bugs?

From my personal experience - bent on 3 machines 1.6 16v stock. So you don't seem to hear about such cases on the drain 1.6 16 bugs? From my personal experience - bent on 3 machines 1.6 16v stock.

From my personal experience - bent on 3 machines 1.6 16v stock. Stels_dust, and how can this be related? Why does someone have oppression, someone does not? Antone wrote: Stels_dust, but how can this be connected? Why does someone have oppression, someone does not?

Because this is a VAZ .... Because this is a VAZ .... Stels_dust wrote: Antone wrote: Stels_dust wrote: Antone wrote: Stels_dust, I understand that another head is needed, receivers, brains and stuff. Those. Are there no valve grooves on TDMK pistons?

How to understand no? there is

There are also 1.5 pistons on the stock, but the oppression is all the same. It's just that they are deeper at 1.6 drain, but there is also oppression. Counterbores on 1.6 stock are not a panacea.

So you don't seem to hear about such cases on the drain 1.6 16 bugs? From my personal experience - bent on 3 machines 1.6 16v stock. until I see it myself, I don’t believe the photos, come on zs. I myself was cut off a month ago because of the pump on the highway opposite the car service. I changed it and went How to understand no? there is.

There are also 1.5 pistons on the stock, but the oppression is all the same. It's just that they are deeper at 1.6 drain, but there is also oppression. Counterbores on 1.6 stock are not a panacea.

So you don't seem to hear about such cases on the drain 1.6 16 bugs? From my personal experience - bent on 3 machines 1.6 16v stock. until I see it myself, I don’t believe the photos, come on zs. I myself was cut off a month ago because of the pump on the highway opposite the car service. I changed it and went So it seems like you don't hear about such cases on the drain 1.6 16 bedbugs?

From my personal experience - bent on 3 machines 1.6 16v stock. until I see it myself, I don’t believe the photos, come on zs. I myself was cut off a month ago because of the pump on the highway opposite the car service

Changed and went From my personal experience - bent on 3 cars 1.6 16v stock. until I see it myself, I don’t believe the photos, come on zs. I myself was cut off a month ago because of the pump on the highway opposite the car service.

I changed it and drove off until I see it myself, I don’t believe the photos. I myself was cut off a month ago because of the pump on the highway opposite the car service

Changed and went 963_ wrote: Stels_dust wrote: Antone wrote: Stels_dust wrote: Antone wrote: Stels_dust, I understand what else the head is needed, receivers, brains and stuff.

Those. Are there no valve grooves on TDMK pistons? How to understand no? there is. There are also 1.5 pistons on the stock, but oppression is all the same.

It's just that they are deeper at 1.6 drain, but there is also oppression. Counterbores on 1.6 stock are not a panacea. So you don't seem to hear about such cases on the drain 1.6 16 bugs? From my personal experience - bent on 3 machines 1.6 16v stock. until I see it myself, I don’t believe the photos, come on zs. I myself was cut off a month ago because of the pump on the highway opposite the car service.

Changed and went lucky .... no pictures. I have 8 cells. the motor still on the shaft 10.93 did not bent the valves - the other day a friend on the same (my) shaft - the belt broke - in the 2nd boiler compression 0. Make your own conclusion ... How to understand not? there is. There are also 1.5 pistons on the stock, but oppression is all the same. It's just that they are deeper at 1.6 drain, but there is also oppression.

Counterbores on 1.6 stock are not a panacea. So you don't seem to hear about such cases on the drain 1.6 16 bugs? From my personal experience - bent on 3 machines 1.6 16v stock. until I see it myself, I don’t believe the photos, come on zs. I myself was cut off a month ago because of the pump on the highway opposite the car service.

Changed and went lucky .... no pictures. I have 8 cells. the motor still on the shaft 10.93 did not bent the valves - the other day a friend on the same (my) shaft - the belt broke - in the 2nd boiler compression 0. Make your own conclusion ... So you don't seem to hear about such cases on the drain 1.6 16 bedbugs ? From my personal experience - bent on 3 machines 1.6 16v stock. until I see it myself, I don’t believe the photos, come on zs. I myself was cut off a month ago because of the pump on the highway opposite the car service. Changed and went lucky .... no pictures. I have 8 cells. the motor still on the shaft 10.93 did not bent the valves - the other day a friend on the same (my) shaft - the belt broke - in the 2nd boiler compression 0. Make your own conclusion ... From my personal experience - bent on 3 machines 1.6 16v stock. until I see it myself, I don’t believe the photos, come on zs. I myself was cut off a month ago because of the pump on the highway opposite the car service.

Changed and went lucky .... no pictures. I have 8 cells. the motor still on the shaft 10.93 did not bent the valves - the other day a friend on the same (my) shaft - the belt broke - in the 2nd boiler compression 0. Make your own conclusion ... until I see it myself, I don’t believe the photos, come on zy ... I myself was cut off a month ago because of the pump on the highway opposite the car service. Changed and went lucky .... no pictures. I have 8 cells. the motor still on the shaft 10.93 did not bent the valves - the other day a friend on the same (my) shaft - the belt broke - in the 2nd boiler compression 0. Make your own conclusion ... lucky .... no pictures. I have 8 cells. the motor still on the shaft 10.93 did not bent the valves - the other day a friend on the same (my) shaft - the belt broke - in the 2nd boiler there is compression 0. Make your own conclusion ...

Stels_dust wrote: Because this is a VAZ .... Apparently you do not know very well the entot matorchik Oppression sometimes, patamuchto the valve gidriki open more often on slow motion at high turnovers or with strong promotion. the valves open more strongly when moving at high speed or with a strong promotion aviatorrr wrote: Stels_dust wrote: Because this is a VAZ ....

Looks like you do not know very well the entot matorchik Sometimes, patamuchto valve gidriki open more strongly when idle movement on high gears or with strong promotion Looks like you wrote on the abum simply. It bent about 2000 about on a warmed-up drive on the track ... Looks like you do not know very well the entot matorchik Sometimes, patamuchto valve gidriki open more strongly when idle moving on high revolves or with strong spinning Looks like you wrote on the abum simply. I bent about 2000 rpm on a warm drive on the track ...

Looks like you wrote on abum simply. Bent on about 2000 on about a warm drive on the track ... Stels_dust wrote: aviatorrr wrote: Stels_dust wrote: Because this is a VAZ ....

Looks like you do not know very well the entot matorchik Sometimes, patamuchto valve gidriki open more strongly when idle movement on high gears or with strong promotion Looks like you wrote on the abum simply. It bent about 2000 rpm on a warmed-up drive on the track ... and more .... explain to me, a dumb man, how a wetsuit can open the valve more strongly? I would then improve the gidgets and not put the shafts Looks like you don't know very well you entot matorchik Bends sometimes, patamuchto gidrics of the valve open more strongly when idling on high gears or with strong spinning Looks like you wrote on the abum simply. It bent about 2000 rpm on a warmed-up drive on the track ... and more .... explain to me, a dumb man, how a wetsuit can open the valve more strongly? I would then improve the gidrics and not put the shafts Looks like you wrote on the abum simply.

It bent about 2000 rpm on a warmed-up drive on the track ... and more .... explain to me, a dumb man, how a wetsuit can open the valve more? I would then improve the hydrics and not put the shafts Stels_dust I will not argue but the valve is exactly raised because of the high oil pressure on them aviatorrr wrote: Stels_dust I will not argue but the valve is raised because of the high oil pressure on them is nonsense. oil on turns liquefies and squeezes better ... nonsense. the oil on the revolutions liquefies and is pressed through better ... aviatorrr wrote: Stels_dust I will not argue but the valve is lifted because of the high oil pressure on them you want to say that the oil pressure squeezes the valve spring Then why in general the valves do not open themselves under the action of hydraulics you want to say that oil pressure squeezes the valve spring Then why, in general, the valves do not open themselves under the action of the hydraulics alex83i wrote: aviatorrr wrote: Stels_dust I will not argue but the valve is raised precisely because of the high oil pressure on them you want to say that pressure oil squeezes the valve spring Then why, in general, the valves do not open themselves under the action of the hydraulics, do not say, then you can do without shafts ... clean hydraulics in each valve with a HUGE pressure you mean that oil pressure squeezes the valve spring Then why in general the valves do not themselves open under the action of hydrics, don't say, then you can do without shafts ... clean screw the hydraulics into each valve with a GREAT pressure, do not say, then you can do without shafts ... clean hydraulics fit into each valve with a GREAT pressure, then you can do without shafts ... clean hydraulics screw into each valve with a GREAT pressure one valve with HIGH pressure r\u003e

One of the scary topics in the conversations of motorists is why the valves bend, on which cars this breakdown is possible, and how to prevent it. Today we will tell you in detail about the reasons why the engine valve fails and the preventive measures for this malfunction.

What are the valves in the motor responsible for?

First, a little theory. Surely every car enthusiast knows how many cylinders are in the engine of his car, but how many valves it contains - not everyone will answer this question. Most modern engines have from eight to sixteen valves (two or four per cylinder), there are power plants (eight or twelve-cylinder), in which the number of valves is from 24 to 32.

The valve is an important part of the gas distribution mechanism (timing) of the engine of the machine, which is located in the cylinder head, is responsible for the timely supply of air to the cylinder and the displacement of exhaust gas from it.

Moreover, the same valve cannot perform these functions, and therefore each cylinder is equipped with two types of valves - intake valves, which supply air to the combustion chamber, and exhaust valves, which squeeze the combustion products of the air-fuel mixture out of this chamber.

There are engines that have two exhaust and intake valves per cylinder, and there are those where there are more intake valves than exhaust valves (three and five-valve cylinders). In the structure of the valve, two parts are distinguished: a plate and a stem. It is the valve stem that gets hit when one of the elements of the gas distribution mechanism fails.

The valves are brought into operation by the camshaft, which, rotating around its axis in the cylinder head, raises some and lowers other valves into the cylinders - these are the so-called gas distribution phases. In turn, the camshaft drives the crankshaft - both of these timing elements are interconnected by a drive, which can be gear, belt or chain. A gear drive rotates the camshaft in the cylinder block, and a belt or chain drive rotates in the cylinder head.

At present, the most widespread are engines, in the gas distribution mechanism of which they are used. The belt drive is simpler in design, but less reliable than the chain drive. The chain type of drive, in turn, is more complicated - its mechanism includes tension rollers and dampers. It is no coincidence that we paid so much attention to the details of the gas distribution mechanism - understanding the principle of its operation will help us further determine the reasons why the valve bends.

Why valves bend

Both the belt-driven gas distribution mechanism and the chain-driven timing mechanism may come to a point when the belt or chain drive fails. A break in the timing belt or stretching of the timing chain links that are unable to catch on the teeth of the camshaft gears (slippage) leads to the fact that the camshaft stops abruptly, and the crankshaft continues to move.

At this moment, the valves are recessed into the cylinder, and the piston rises towards them. The lifting force of the piston is much greater than that of descending valves, so the piston strikes the valve disc, and the rod, unable to withstand this impact, bends or even breaks. There is a complete stop of the engine, which is not recommended to start again, so as not to provoke a more serious breakdown - failure of the pistons, which is fraught with expensive repairs to the cylinder head.

How to tell if the valves are bent

It is impossible to establish by eye that when the belt breaks or the timing chain slips, the valve is bent. To do this, you need to carry out two simple operations.

First, we will install a new timing belt on the rollers according to the marks and slowly turn the crankshaft. Two to five revolutions are enough to determine that the valves are bent: if the rotation is free, then the valve stems are intact, if it is difficult, the valves are bent.

It so happens that the crankshaft turns, but the valves are bent anyway. How, in this case, to determine the breakdown? It is necessary to measure, having previously unscrewed the spark plugs. If there is no compression in the cylinder, the valves are bent.

How to prevent valve breakage

Let us analyze the reasons why the belt could break in order to understand how to prevent such a breakdown.

Cause 1. The timing belt has expired. Like any other consumable, the timing belt has its own service life. The car manufacturer in the operating manual indicates the timing of replacing the timing belt - for most engines, it occurs with a mileage of 100-120 thousand kilometers. Of course, it is possible to hope that until this moment the belt will serve faithfully, but for greater fidelity, we recommend that you inspect the condition of the belt at each scheduled maintenance and, if necessary, replace it. In this case, we will not allow it to break, and, as a result, we will not disentangle the problems with bent valves.

Reason 2. Using a counterfeit timing belt. Some motorists, wanting to save money, buy non-original, cheap timing belts that break at low mileage - 5-7 thousand kilometers. Advice - be responsible for buying a timing belt, it is better to pay more for this consumable than to fork out later for expensive cylinder head repairs.

Reason 3. Breakdown of the timing pump. In the design of the gas distribution mechanism of some engines, the pump comes into contact with the belt, and when this unit fails, it jams, as a result of which the belt rubs against the pump and frays, which leads to its breakage. The pump wears out at the same mileage as the timing belt, so when replacing the belt, we recommend installing a new pump.

Cause 4. Camshaft wear. This breakdown occurs at high engine mileage (from 150 thousand km or more), and therefore does not occur so often. A jammed camshaft can rupture the timing belt. That is why when buying a used car with high mileage, we strongly advise you to take a look at the condition of the camshaft.

Cause 5. Faulty timing attachment. The timing belt moves on rollers, which can also wear out, jam, which leads to the belt breaking and the valves bending.

Although engines with a timing chain drive are considered more reliable, it happens that they also have valve bending. This happens for two reasons: the chain links are stretched or the drive attachments (idler rollers and dampers) fail. The main reason why the timing chain links stretch is the poor quality material from which it is made. Such a disaster happened to Volkswagen engines in the mid-2000s: the German automaker ordered chains from an unscrupulous contractor, and they began to fail at 20-40 thousand mileage, provoking bending of the valves. To prevent such motors from bending the valve, you should periodically diagnose the timing chain and attachments and, if necessary, change them to new ones.

In addition to these methods, you can prevent bending of the valves by making special recesses on the piston heads, which will correspond in size to the valve stems. If a belt breaks or a chain slips through, then when the camshaft stops, the valve rods will not bite into the piston heads, but will enter the grooves and stop there. True, this method also has its drawbacks: an engine with such "tuned" pistons loses up to seven percent of its power. Are you ready to derate the motor of your "iron horse" for the sake of the safety of the valves in case of failure of the timing drive?

Often in the conversations of motorists, phrases flash: “I got to be repaired, the belt broke, the valve was bent”. Of course, in such cases we are talking about the timing belt. In order to understand the reasons for the "catastrophe", let's consider in general terms the interaction of the connecting rod-piston group and the gas distribution mechanism.

This interaction is strictly coordinated, otherwise the normal operation of the engine will not be ensured.

The principle of operation of the valve-piston system

Let's take a compression cycle as an example. When the piston, compressing the combustible mixture, approaches the top dead center, it almost comes close to the combustion chamber (on diesel engines - to the surface of the head). If at this moment any of the valves is not closed, then the loss of compression will be the lesser evil. Most likely, the valve, the rod of which is rigidly held by the rocker arm (or the cam of the camshaft) from above, will take the blow of the piston.

The valve bends in the event of a collision of the valve with the piston

In very rare cases, the piston crown has recesses in the piston crown to avoid collisions. From the above, I hope, it is clear why the valve bends when the timing belt breaks: the camshaft stops rotating, some of the valves remain in the open position, being a “convenient target” for pistons moving by inertia.

Coordination of the timing with the crank mechanism is ensured by the precise installation of gears or sprockets. For this, alignment marks are made on them and at certain points of the engine.

By the type of torque transmission, the drive of the gas distribution mechanism can be:

• Belt
• Chain
• Gear

Consider their common malfunctions, which can lead to bending of the valves.

Timing drive device

Consequences of a broken timing belt

Some curious motorists are interested in the question: is it possible to bend the valve with a starter? The answer is easy! Just do not set the sprockets or gears "according to the marks" - and the key is ready to start! If the engine starts, you will immediately learn to recognize the symptoms of kinked valves. Although, if you do not "miss" much, then everything can be fixed by assembling the timing drive according to the rules.
If only one valve is bent, the engine will run unevenly. Even if it's a V-shaped "six" - hear it.
If, after the restoration of the camshaft drive, the engine runs smoothly and develops the same power, then you are lucky and the manufacturer prudently supplied pistons with sufficient indentations in the bottoms. Unfortunately, this is not always possible. First of all, when designing a motor, the designer achieves a combination of many seemingly contradictory qualities of his "brainchild". Let's say such as economy and power. This can, to some extent, serve as an excuse for the fact that on 16-valve motors, the valve often bends when the timing belt breaks.

Such problems are especially acute for the creators of diesel engines, in which the compression and the necessary swirling of the fuel mixture set the power characteristics. Therefore, the combustion chamber is made in the piston crown and often has a whimsical shape.

On diesel engines, the valve bends more often than on gasoline

However, behind this is the accurate calculation and simulation of vortex flows on a computer. Such chambers are called undivided and making recesses for the valves is impractical from the point of view of high-quality atomization and the most efficient combustion of the fuel mixture. The piston comes very close to the block head. Therefore, it is not yet known for certain whether there are diesel engines that “do not bend the valve”. Although, perhaps, human genius coped with this disaster.

Repairs

Curved auto engine valves

Never try to repair bent valves in any way!
Replacement, and only replacement!

If you straighten the valve "by eye", then you risk making yourself more trouble. A hand-rebuilt valve is unlikely to be aligned with the guide bushing and will press tightly against the seat. And if you want to “slightly” trim the rod, then it will work like a pump, pumping oil into the combustion chamber - no cap will hold it.
It would be prudent to troubleshoot other parts as carefully as possible. After all, a blow can damage the guide bushings, valve seats. There are cases when the connecting rods were bent. Breakage of rocker arms is also not uncommon.

Models of VAZ engines, the valves of which are not “afraid” of breaking the timing belt:

VAZ 2111 1.5l; VAZ 21083 1.5L; VAZ 11183 1.6l (8 valve); VAZ 2114 1.5l and 1.6l (both 8 valve)

It is known that the old 8-valve "Opel" engines (such as those on the DAEWOO Nexia and Chevrolet Lanos) also calmly endure this trouble.

As a rule, if a person in his favorite car bent at least one valve, even once, such a person already begins to understand that even “glands” do not have iron patience and will try to become a good master of their “horse”.

In conclusion, it will not be superfluous to add - watch your car, do not hesitate if there is a reason to “look under the hood”.

Sometimes cars give owners a lot of problems. One of the worst breakdowns is bent valves. This happens when the timing belt breaks. After a break, the valves completely fail. Let's look at the reasons, as well as find out how to prevent and repair.

Why are valves in an engine?

First you need to learn the theory. Probably, every motorist knows the number of cylinders in the engine of his car, but not everyone can answer the question about the number of valves. Most modern internal combustion engines can have 8 to 16 valves. There are such power units, where there can be 24 or more. The valve is an important part of the engine. It is responsible for supplying the fuel mixture to the combustion chamber and for the exit of exhaust gases into the exhaust system. There are two valves for each cylinder: one is inlet, the other is outlet. In 16-valve engines, there are four valves for each cylinder if the engine is four-cylinder. There are also engines where there are more intake elements than exhaust ones. These are three- and five-cylinder engines.

The valve consists of two parts - a plate and a stem. It is the rod that gets hit when the timing belt breaks. The valves are driven by the action of the camshaft. It, rotating around its axis in the cylinder head, can raise and lower the valves.

It is driven by the crankshaft - these two elements in any internal combustion engine are connected by a belt, gear or chain drive. By means of a gear train, the camshaft rotates inside the cylinder block. This transmission rotates the camshaft in the cylinder head. Today, ICEs are more common, where belts are used.

The latter have a simple design, such a mechanism is cheaper to manufacture. However, their reliability is much lower than in the case of a chain drive. The latter is more complex - there are additional elements here. These are chain guides and idler rollers.

Why bend?

The situation when the valves are bent can happen in any engine of any design. It does not matter how many cylinders are in the engine and how many valves there are. The cause of the breakdown is simple, and it is one. This is a broken belt in the drive or chain. The latter are torn much less frequently than belts. In the case of the chain, it stretches, and the stars jump.

The camshaft stops abruptly after the timing belt breaks. At the same time, the crank will continue to move. For example, valves that are recessed in the cylinders will collide with the pistons when they reach top dead center. And since pistons have a lot of impact energy, they can easily bend or break open valves.

Elimination of the consequences of this breakdown is very expensive. It is necessary to remove all damaged valves from the engine. Also, the entire cylinder head and the cylinder head must suffer. It is far from always possible to restore the cylinder head, and then only replacement with a new or contractual one will help.

Causes of a broken timing belt

The most common reasons that lead to breakage of a drive belt are the owners' failure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for replacement. When the car is new and is under warranty, the owners very rarely look under the hood - all the maintenance work will be done by an authorized dealer. When the warranty ends, many try to save money on belt replacement.

Often, the pump may fail. In many car models, it is driven from the timing belt. If the pump fails, the system will jam, and the belt will wear out in a few hours. Also, one of the most popular reasons is poor quality belts. Therefore, it is better to purchase high-quality and original consumables.

Camshafts can also fail, as well as the latter fall off or can jam - the belt either flies off the gears or breaks. That is why the valves on the VAZ bent.

It is not only a breakage that can occur with a belt. Often, the teeth are sheared and not easy to find. Teeth can slip if the tension roller spring breaks. On some engines, the camshaft gear has a special.Only a tightened bolt serves as an insurance against turning the gear. If you do not reach it, then there is a risk that the gear will turn, and as a result, the valves bend. Replacement is the only way out of the situation.

How to avoid trouble?

There is only one way. It is necessary to strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions for replacing consumables. Not only the timing belt is subject to replacement, but also the tension rollers, as well as other elements that mesh with the belt and are indicated by the manufacturer in the regulations.

All components should be purchased only from trusted automotive stores.

Can I bend with a starter?

The starter bends the valves, and easily. This happens if the stars or gears of the gas distribution mechanism are incorrectly installed according to the corresponding marks. Then just turn the starter. If the engine starts, the driver will immediately learn how to recognize that the valves are bent. But if you miss a little in the marks, then breakage can be avoided. In order to solve the problem completely, it remains to assemble the drive according to the rules.

How to identify bent valves?

It is impossible to determine by eye what the valves are bent. This will require simple, uncomplicated actions. First you need to install the timing belt according to the marks, and then turn the crankshaft by hand. It usually takes two to five turns to find out that the valves are indeed bent. If the crankshaft rotates easily and calmly, then the timing elements are intact. When rotation is difficult, the valves are damaged.

It also happens that with free and easy rotation of the crankshaft, the valves are still bent. In this case, the problem can be identified by measuring the compression. If the compression is at zero, then the timing elements are damaged. Many do not know how to check if the valves are bent. It will be heard. The engine will run unevenly. It feels good even on large engines with six or more cylinders.

On which engines does the valves fail?

Such motors exist. Some engines were even produced by AvtoVAZ. The whole secret lies in the pistons with special grooves on the working part of the piston. These recesses are specially made for the valve. If the timing belt breaks, the element will simply go into these pits, and the structure will remain intact. It will only be necessary to set the gears according to the marks and install a new belt.

How do you know if the engine is bending the valves?

But this will not work. There are no tricks or signs here. It will not be possible to visually identify whether the motor is safe.

There are also no inscriptions or any mentions. Information can be obtained from the instruction manual or from an authorized dealer.

Conclusion

In order not to engage in valve replacement, it is recommended to change the timing belt on time. If this is an AvtoVAZ car, then you can install special protected pistons. But they eat up some of the power and increase fuel consumption. It must be remembered that if the timing belt breaks, not only the valves fail - the entire head can also break. This makes repairs even more expensive. It is not worth saving on the timing belt.