A car heater helps to maintain the temperature in the cabin that is optimal not only for passengers, but also for car components. If the operation of the device is accompanied by uncharacteristic sounds - noise, rattling, as well as uneven supply of warm air, we have to talk about a possible breakdown. All this does not give the car owner any pleasure. The situation worsens if the motor does not make any noise at all. In this case, it will be necessary to dismantle the fan of the Renault Megan stove 2 (3), which can be done without resorting to the services of a car service.

What is a stove fan

A car heater performs a fairly simple but important function - heating the passenger compartment. In addition, the device prevents the glass from fogging up. In accordance with the accepted standards, at an overboard temperature of -25 ˚С, the cabin must be at least +16 ˚С. Such indicators are necessary for the comfortable operation of the car. Structurally, the heater is not a complex unit.

Heat is supplied to the passenger compartment from a running power unit. The heated antifreeze circulating through the engine cooling system also enters the heating system. There it enters the stove radiator, which functions as a conventional apartment battery. The fan drives outboard air through the radiator honeycomb, which heats up in this way. Then it enters the salon through the air ducts. On most vehicles, the antifreeze that passes through the heater radiator immediately returns to the engine, and this circulation ensures a constantly high radiator temperature.

The heater fan supplies and distributes hot air throughout the vehicle interior

As a result, a high constant temperature in the system is provided and maintained. In the absence of a fan, there would be no hot air supply to the passenger compartment. Most car stoves work according to this principle.

One of the main elements providing for the supply and distribution of heat throughout the cabin is the heater fan, which is an electric motor with an impeller on its axis. It is intended for use in a hot air blower machine heater system.

Where is the stove fan of the Renault Megan car?

On Megan 2 (3), to repair or replace the stove fan, you will need to dismantle the element. With insufficient experience, it is not so easy to find a heater motor. To get close to the electric motor, you need to go down under the torpedo to the pedal assembly. There is a flap to the right of the accelerator pedal: you need to open it. Behind it is the electric motor.

The stove fan is located under the front panel in the upper part

Why the fan of the Renault Megana stove does not work 2 (3)

Despite the fact that foreign-made cars are equipped with modern equipment, breakdowns cannot be completely avoided. So, in some Renault cars 2 (3), a rather common problem is the failure of the stove fan. To understand what the problem is with, you should first consider how it can manifest itself.

Breakdown symptoms

The fact that the fan is malfunctioning is indicated by the following symptoms:

• fan operation at low speeds;
• gradual failure of speeds;
• there is a smell of electrical wiring in the car;
• the stove starts up with difficulty (after mechanical impact on the lower part of the torpedo on the right near the gas pedal);
• complete stop of the electric motor.

In the latter case, repair of the heater is inevitable. However, in order to be sure that the problem lies precisely in the stove fan, you need to know a little more about diagnosing the node in question.

Breakdown diagnostics

To determine the malfunction, a simple technique should be followed.

1. If, when turning the heater control, the motor is inaudible, then the first thing to check is the fuse. This element is located in the fuse box on the left side near the torpedo and is designed for a current of 30 A. In the event of a fuse-link burnout, you need to find out the reason.

   In the fuse box, an element C with a rating of 30 A is responsible for the performance of the heating fan circuit

2. If the performance of the electric motor is disrupted at some speed, you will need a multimeter with which it will be possible to determine which resistor has burned out. After that, you can replace the element or completely change the resistance unit. If the resistors are in good condition, then most likely the culprit is the fan control switch, which must be replaced.

   If the fan does not work at any of the speeds, then the reason may be the failure of the corresponding resistor

3. When it was determined that the fuse is intact, but the motor does not rotate, it is the fan that needs to be checked. For this, the node must be connected directly to the battery. You can get to the motor only after lifting the glove compartment above the front panel. Then the power connector is disconnected, a plus from the battery is supplied to the black-blue wire, the minus is connected to another contact. With this method of connection, a working fan will operate at maximum speed. If there are no signs of operation, the engine will have to be replaced.

   When connecting the electric motor of the heater directly to the battery and its operation at maximum speed, one can judge the health of the unit

In addition to malfunctions of the motor itself, other problems are possible with the interior heater, which reduce the efficiency of the system. There may be several reasons for this, for example, a low level of antifreeze in the cooling system, breakage of dampers, which leads to a disruption in the normal flow of air.

Video: replacing the Renault Megan heater fan resistor 2 (3)

Repair of the fan of the Renault Megan stove

If there is a problem with the heater fan, its operation is accompanied by incomprehensible sounds, then the part will need to be dismantled, and then cleaned or replaced. Since on Renault Megan 2 (3) the node is very inconvenient, to get to it, you must follow the step-by-step instructions. Only in this case you will not have to dismantle unnecessary elements, and you will also be able to avoid unforeseen situations.

How to remove the fan of the Renault Megan stove 2 (3)

Since the electric motor of the heater is located in a dark place, you will need a flashlight for operation. We carry out repairs in the following sequence:

1. Carefully dismantle the cover. The force should not be excessive to avoid damage to the cover. The main latch is located in the center of the surface, it just needs to be pulled back.

   The heater fan is located in the upper part of the front panel inside the structure: to get to the unit, you need to open the protective cover

2. Remove the brake light button. To do this, gently turn it to the left and take it out.

   One of the stages of dismantling the electric motor of the stove is to remove the brake light button

3. The next step is to remove the connector from the accelerator pedal. To do this, we apply some effort from the flat side using a screwdriver. Then we remove the brake pedal, for which we disconnect the lock washer, lower the retainer, and remove the axle itself.

   Remove the connector from the gas pedal, and then dismantle the brake pedal

4. We find four nuts that hold the pedal assembly, unscrew them with a key on "13" and remove the mechanism itself.

   To remove the pedal assembly, it is necessary to unscrew the four nuts to "13"

5. If you want to see the heater motor, you need to look deep: the node is located at the top. To get to it, you will need to remove another connector with latches at the ends.

   The fan can be released by pressing the tab of the retainer, rotating the device counterclockwise

6. At this stage, special care is needed. Dismantle the connector with two thick wires by prying the latch from below. Movements should be directed from the center of the element. To remove the connector, you need to remove it to the left relative to the axis.

   To remove the connector with two thick wires, you need to pry the latch and remove the part to the left

7. The brake rod will prevent dismantling of the motor. To remove the electric motor, it is necessary to pull the assembly as carefully as possible between the heating hoses and the brake rod. This can be done, but only at a certain position of the fan.

   To remove the fan, carefully pull the assembly between the brake rod and the heating hoses

When installing the electric motor in place, the steps are reversed to dismantling. You should not rush to buy a new part. Quite often, the unit can be disassembled, find out the cause of the problem and eliminate it (clean, install new brushes). If a fan is being replaced, a control unit must also be purchased for it. This is due to the fact that quite often the resistor with terminals fails. Due to the high cost of control units, it is recommended to first find out that it really needs to be replaced, and only after that purchase the necessary parts.

Video: how to replace the heater motor with Renault Megan 2 (3)

Replacing or repairing a heater fan on a Renault Megan car 2 (3) requires not only accuracy in work, but also some skill, which is associated with the inconvenient location of the unit. In addition, excessive force should be avoided when dismantling plastic elements in order to prevent them from breaking. Motor malfunctions are not always associated with the part itself, so you should not rush to buy a new device: first diagnose the breakdown.

Renault Megan 2 began to conquer the hearts of many motorists with its design since 2002. Produced in sedan, station wagon, hatchback versions. And although 2006 acquired a slightly different appearance, this did not affect the general characteristics. And minor bugs and malfunctions of Renault Megan 2 remained without the attention of the automaker. Especially the owners had a lot of complaints about the Frenchman's electronics. Although there are lucky ones who do not know Megan's breakdowns and diseases. In this case, let's just talk about the weak points and frequent malfunctions of the Renault Megane 2 car, so that the owners of this beauty know in advance what to look for in the first place and what to protect it from.

Engine

• The phase regulator walks less than desired (often frightens with its crackle, besides the car refuses to gain momentum). And his price is not small - from $ 120. Those who have a 1.4 liter engine do not have a problem (there is no phase regulator). On engines 1.6 and 2.0 liters. The problem may begin to bother after 30 thousand km of run, although it often arises at 100 thousand.
• Small service life of the crankshaft pulley with a rubber damper (60 - 80 thousand mileage).
• At 30 thousand mileage may need throttle cleaning, and along with this procedure, it is necessary to change its rubber seal (it becomes dull and as a result, air leaks).
• Not happy service life of ignition coilswhich is like a crankshaft pulley is 60-80 thousand km.
• After 80,000 km will probably start creating problems with starting the car,- starter... But often small defects are easily eliminated (replacing the retractor fuse, stripping contacts and wires).
• Owners of the first second generation Megan weak rear lower engine mount... In most cases, the lifetime will be only about 20-30 thousand kilometers. Jerks and jerks at the start will speak about her death. On cars produced after 2008, the problem was eliminated by the manufacturer.

Unfortunately, there is little information about the reliability of the Renault Megan 2 diesel unit. The main problems that arise with it are burnout of the washer under the nozzles or cracks in the intercooler housing, but such defects threaten no earlier than 120 thousand kilometers.

The most reliable is the 98 hp 1.4 liter petrol engine. There were the least complaints about him.

Electronics

• Glitch in ECU with engine speed in the cold season. The revolutions immediately rise, and then fall sharply and hang at around 400 rpm.
• If there is a Valeo generator on the car, then after 60 thousand km, it very often fails (the problem is either in the regulator relay or brushes).
• At 60 thousand kilometers in the steering column breaks off ... Since you can only buy a complete assembly with a steering switch for 200 dollars, the best option may only be to solder the loop. A sign that the train will soon cover and the pillow light will light up - there will be a rustling sound when the steering wheel is turned.
• On older cars of 2006, in wet weather, miracles can often occur with electronics, in particular, the image on the board of the bortovik may disappear.
• Closer to 60-80 thousand km. may refuse power windows, will often be the front ones (they are used the most). Due to the destruction of the bridge in the gearbox housing, or the drum with the cable wears out.
• The wiper motor may burn out (due to its location). When the drainage hole of the water drain is clogged, in front of the windshield, it fills the motor.

Transmission

• After 60 thousand km may appear release bearing whistle on the secondary shaft.
• Also, in most owners, on a run of 60,000 km box kicks appear through worn clutch disc, its lifetime is short. And for more than 50 thousand it will not be enough either. The clutch disc from Scenic showed itself much better.
• On automatic transmissions after 40 thousand valves in the hydraulic valve clog up (mainly depends on driving style).
• A field of 60 thousand km is a high probability of an imminent failure of the automatic transmission pillow.

Chassis

• One of the frequent breakdowns that manifest themselves after 50 thousand km is an .
• Closer to 60 thousand steering tips will have to be changed.
• To 80,000 km. required .

Salon

• After forty thousand runs in the salon "crickets" settle... Most often, the tanning seal creaks between the dashboard and the glass, although this is not the only place. The source of squeaks will be handles, door hinges.
• When the thermal insulation under the hood sags, then hot air from the engine enters the passenger compartment through the ventilation system... Warm air will come from the air ducts of the stove even in the heat.

Exhaust system

• Strong the exhaust pipe is corroded.
• Small catalyst resource... In most cases, it should serve at least 150 thousand, and on Megan 2, barely 100 thousand is capable. This is another weak point of Renault Megane.

Headlights

• A fairly common malfunction in Megan 2 is burning of the negative terminal of the power supply of the rear lights... As a result, "color music" appears when you press the brake pedal or turn on the turns. Only the replacement of the connector will help (cleaning the contacts will temporarily solve the problem).

As you can see, the list of Renault Megan 2 faults is decent, but not all of them are serious, so if you know about them, you can prepare in advance. Plus, of course, everything is not so sad and it’s sad how it might seem at first glance, after looking at all these upcoming breakdowns, because the probability that this particular set is waiting for one owner is negligible, although 5-6 weak points will come out for anyone.

Despite the fact that Renault Megan is a fairly reliable car, it has some weaknesses and typical sores. There are some problems in the transmission. Manual gearboxes - that “six-steps” for two-liter versions and for “restyled” 1.9-liter turbodiesels, that “five-steps” with other petrol and diesel 1.4-1.9 liter engines of all types are reliable in themselves and can rarely fail.

When there is another hundred thousand kilometers on the odometer, be sure to check the condition of the gaskets and oil seals, since they have the property of "flowing" to this line. Next, keep the oil level under control, otherwise the differential bearings will suffer. It happens that jerks often begin after some 11-15 tons. Kilometers at the moment when the clutch discs close. The jerking of the car is especially noticeable when the unit heats up during hot weather or when driving in traffic jams - and it is not completely cured even if you replace the complete “basket” for 250 euros.

A perennial problem - the AL4 automatic transmission

The adaptive automatic transmission DP0 at a price of 3,500 euros, called AL4, is also bothering owners of some Citroen and Peugeot models. Although this unit, which debuted in 1999, was improved throughout its entire conveyor life, but this did not help it - it remained a problem as a knot of French cars. "Automatic" in a cold state does not tolerate work and is very sensitive to the oil level, which can be checked in the absence of a dipstick only on the lift. Further on the list, in the risk group oil seals and a torque converter, a bulkhead will cost 650-1050 euros. However, most often - sometimes already after 60-75 tonnes kilometers, maximum 80 tonnes (due to strong shocks during switching), it is necessary to change the modulation valves or the entire valve body for 210-480 euros.

Renault Megane 2 suspension weaknesses

About Megan's suspension. Almost all weak points in this node are already known. For example, the support bearings of the front struts for 95-105 euros, before the company strengthened their design in 2007, and their replacement under warranty due to knocking on irregularities often happened without having covered 15-20 tons of kilometers. The reason for such an early failure of the support bearings of the front struts is their insufficient protection from dirt.

The front silent blocks of the levers could theoretically serve for 125-160 tons km, if they did not fail twice as fast, coupled with levers at 100 euros each with non-removable ball bearings, which also wear out. In principle, you can buy non-original hinges separately, but how strong the lever with a ball, while bolted, is a big question.

According to the owners of Megan 2 cars, the durability of the bushings and anti-roll bar struts is simply amazing, and they do not give a reason to remember yourself even when the odometer is 115-135 tons. Kilometers! The front shock absorbers, for example, have the same service life, which cost 90 euros each. However, the rear shocks are not as durable - it's not that they are bad timing, no, that's no problem. Just to provide excellent handling - they are angled at a steep angle. And in this regard, they work with increased loads, and cost 50 euros each. When, due to this feature, they begin to show signs of fatigue, this is expressed in the following way - often they give it out not by leaks, but by knocks before 95-100 tons km. The rear ones do not differ in their special vitality, but there is at least one plus - they are located in plain sight, so it will not be difficult to control their condition. Silent blocks of the rear beam, which cost 70 euros each, will require attention only after 100-120 tons of kilometers. If they squeak, it means they are torn.

Renault Megane II suspension problems

Now a few words about the steering. When you hear a rattling sound in the steering column, you should not rush to the service immediately, since this is the norm on almost every second car: it happened that the steering shaft on new cars could reach the travel stop. "Rake" at a price of 550-600 euros by itself usually requires total intervention no earlier than 70 tons kilometers with the replacement of a broken bushing. The steering tips are likely to "go" the same amount, but the rods of forty euros will have time to be updated a couple of times before that time, and this is just that super rare case when it makes sense to put a more "unoriginal", which is more durable. The electric power steering costs 1,700 euros, is not repairable and must be replaced in case of a malfunction of any complexity.

Typical sores Renault Megan 2002 - 2008 onwards

"Halogens" of the dipped beam do not last long, but change them "Jesuit", that is, by touch - this is done through the hatches, which are in the area of \u200b\u200bthe front wheel arches.

When your car's windshield starts, and a lot of dirt appears under the hood, it means that the sound insulation of the engine shield swells and the seal sags. To clean the drain pipes, you will have to lift the shroud under the windshield and dismantle the wiper wiring.

The front fenders are plastic. They are not afraid of light blows, but the bumper latches on them break off quite easily.

According to the owners of Renault Megan 2, in winter, the gas tank flap, also plastic, often freezes, and attempts to open it will most likely result in a breakage of the retainer.

With a low plastic boot bottom, be careful as it breaks easily. On pre-styling cars, that is, before the release of 2006, Renault did not equip the rear brakes with mud guards, in this regard, this leads to "emergency" wear of the inner pads.

There are no structural problems with hatchback, station wagon and coupe-convertible bodies. But now the sedans "lit up" with an exotic problem, which is expressed in severe frosts - it happens that the roof swells! This "epidemic" became an actual super-severe winter of 2006, and all because of the thermal noise insulation firmly glued to the roof panel - it shrank from the cold and pulled the "roof" metal along with it, so the plant did not take into account our temperature drops and provided proper clearance. Since 2007, they began to make mats from other materials, so traces indicating the repair of the roof of an older car in 2006 is not at all a sign of their accident in the hands of the previous owner.

When you make a purchase of Megan 2, we advise you to pay attention to post-styling cars, after the 2006 release. The French call them cars of the second phase, since almost all "childhood diseases" were found and cured, so now the reliability of these cars causes much less claims.

Prices for Renault Megan 2 and closest competitors (analogues)

1.4-liter versions of Megan with a capacity of 97-101 forces of 2008-2010 are estimated in the region of 280-450 thousand rubles. Versions with 1.6-liter engines with 111-115 hp. already in 320-480 thousand rubles, for the same price, for example, the Chevrolet Lacetti or, for example, fit, but the Japanese peers Toyota Corolla or Mazda3 are more expensive. And finally, the most interesting proposal is the two-liter Megan. They will cost only 10-25 thousand rubles more. It is more rational to take the "mechanics", however, you will have to get used to the jerky nature of the clutch.

Renault-Megan of the second generation is a modern car, but even it sometimes makes owners jittery. So, one day the engine may not start. Some owners are very scared that the engine is out of order. In fact, if Renault-Megan 2 does not start, then the problem lies not in the engine itself, but in additional components and assemblies. Let's take a look at the root causes of startup failure and learn how to troubleshoot these issues.

Main reasons

If the car did not start in the morning, then this may be due to the following reasons. Most often there are problems with the starter or fuses. Also, often problems can be in the battery or wiring. In the car, the crankshaft position sensor is also involved in the starting process - if it fails, the Renault-Megan 2 will not start. There may be a problem with the engine power system. The fuel pump is faulty or there is no power in its circuit.

Do not discount the banal carelessness. The driver could forget that there is not enough fuel in the tank. It is worth paying more attention to the fuel level sensor on the dashboard. If the indicator lights up, then there is little fuel left in the tank - this volume can be enough for 50 kilometers. When the lamp comes on, you need to refuel the car.

Also, if Renault-Megan 2 does not start, you should make sure that the Check Engine light is off. If the lamp is off, then the reason is definitely not in the engine. This will help narrow down the possible causes when troubleshooting. Let's take a closer look at each of them to understand how to fix it. This information can greatly help new car enthusiasts and those owners who do not know this car.

Battery

This is the most commonplace of faults. It is easy to diagnose it - the motor does not start, but the starter turns on. Often, the battery may be charged, and the starter may even turn on. But the battery capacity may not be enough to generate a spark, which should ignite the fuel mixture in the engine cylinders. The battery needs to be charged or you can use a booster. If this is the case, the engine will start.

In addition to the charge level, the terminals on the battery can be oxidized. Oxides can be subtle and almost invisible to the human eye. But they are quite enough to create a very real resistance, which reduces the inrush currents of the battery. The terminals on the battery must be well cleaned of oxides. This applies not only to the contacts on the battery themselves - what is connected to these contacts is also subject to cleaning. Sometimes this operation can solve problems with starting the engine.

Engine electrical system

If the starter turns, and Renault-Megan 2 does not start, then you should look for the cause in the electrical connections. Electricity problems are especially common problems of this kind.

One or more wires may be damaged. It also happens that some contacts are oxidized. The ECU connector, wiring to the injectors, fuel pump wiring, sensors are responsible for starting the engine. It is worth checking the crankshaft position sensor connector. He is directly involved in starting the engine. According to the data from this sensor, the ignition system works. Contacts can be clogged with dirt, oil, and other elements. All wires and connectors should be wiggled. If the reason was the contacts, then the engine must start.

Circuit breakers

When the starter turns and the Renault Megan 2 won't start, it's worth checking the fuses. Perhaps one of them, responsible for any systems involved in the startup process, burned out. A defective fuse must be replaced.

Starter does not turn

If there is no reaction to turning the key or pressing the engine start button, then the situation is worse, but still not very terrible. But the owners of this car should be aware that in these models the starter is a headache. It is located at the bottom of the engine, at the back. It easily gets water and dirt from the road.

If the starter does not turn, then the first thing to check is the battery and its terminals. Next, check the wires going to the starter. This one is thick from the positive terminal of the battery and thin from the ignition block. If the wires are in order, then check the condition of the "ground" contact of the engine. This contact is established in an unfavorable place and is often clogged. You need to clean it up.

Also, if the starter on the Renault-Megan 2 does not start, check the ignition lock. Often the reason lies in it. Contacts in a contact group can burn, oxidize, burn out completely. One thin wire goes from the ignition switch to the starter - when the key is turned, +12 V appears on it. This voltage at the small contact activates the retractor and holding winding of the starter retractor relay. If the contact is broken, then the voltage on the wire will not appear, and the starter will not be able to start the engine.

If Renault-Megan 2 does not start from the button, then, perhaps, the reason is hidden in the wiring from the battery to the starter. The principle of operation of the button is similar - when a short circuit on a thin wire to the starter, a voltage appears that activates the winding of the solenoid relay. If the starter does not turn on, then this does not necessarily indicate its failure. Most often, the reason is the banal lack of contact.

Solenoid relay

When the key is turned in the ignition lock or when the button is pressed, the retractor relay is activated. It extends the starter bendix, but also closes the power contacts. A power plus comes from the battery terminal to the solenoid relay. The minus is taken from the engine body. Further, when the solenoid relay is triggered, the positive contacts of the battery are closed with the wire supplying the starter motor.

It is also recommended here to carefully check all the connection points and the wires themselves. Often the starter motor will not start the engine because of this. Thick wires can appear to be in good order only visually. Inside, they consist of a large number of thin veins - during operation, these veins break, break. As a result, the contact inside the wire can be provided with fewer cores. And if we take into account that the starting currents for the starter are high enough, then in such a wire the current strength drops.

You should also check the power plus terminal. The place where the terminal is connected to the wire can be oxidized. Oxides are resistance. Copper bolts are used as contacts on the solenoid relay. They are also subject to active oxidation. If the starter does not work, then it does not hurt to check them.

If the retractor relay is working properly, then after turning the key, a characteristic click will be heard. This suggests that the starter brushes are at least intact. The “minus” retractor relay takes exactly from the negative brushes of the starter motor.

How to check the retractor?

If after clicking nothing else happens, then you need to check this relay. This can be done by closing the power plus and the small contact. If the relay clicks and the starter motor starts to rotate, then the reason is in the ignition switch. If not, then in contacts and retractor. There are contact plates inside the element, which over time can burn and lose contact.

You can check the starter motor as follows - with a screwdriver, close two bolts on the retractor relay. The electric motor should be spinning. A good starter should not heat up. The same applies to the solenoid relay.

Crankshaft position sensor

If the Renault-Megan 2 car does not start, and the starter motor turns the engine properly, then the fact is that when the ECU stops receiving data from this sensor, the start is blocked. Without information from him, you cannot unblock the system. Most often, it is not the sensor itself that fails on this car, but the connector. To eliminate this problem, it is recommended to clean the contacts in the terminal. And for sure everything will work out.

But you need to take into account certain nuances. The connector is very fragile and delicate. If you have no experience with such elements, then it is better to act as carefully as possible. And access to the element is also difficult.

Gasoline pump

A common reason when the Renault-Megan 2 engine does not start is a gas pump. If it fails, then gasoline stops flowing to the fuel rail and injectors. Usually the pump does not break, but contact is lost in its connector. The problem here, typical for the entire model as a whole, is the fragility of the connector. Access to it is difficult, but the contact needs to be cleared. The rear seat must be removed to access the fuel pump. The pump is electric, submersible. And it is placed directly in the fuel tank. Fortunately, a special hatch is provided for access to it. By unscrewing a couple of screws, you can provide access to the element. After that, we take out the mechanism complete with a float and a glass. And then we check the condition of the contacts and wires that go to it. Here we can visually identify all damage. By the way, if the pump does not hum when the ignition is turned on, it means that no voltage is supplied to it at all.

Often Renault-Megan 2 does not start after downtime. Even if the car has been standing for two or three days in the bright sun, the next day it may not start. The starter motor will spin and the car will not start. This all concerns the fuel pump. Also, the pump may not produce the required pressure, and without a certain pressure in the fuel rail, the engine also does not work (or the car moves in jerks).

Throttle valve

The throttle valve problems in this car are not related to clogging. Often settings on it disappear in some way. In this case, throttle adaptation helps.

Error scanning

You can find out why Renault-Megan 2 won't start using a diagnostic scanner. The vehicle is equipped with a diagnostic system and has an error memory. Among them there are definitely those that affect the launch. For example, the reason may actually be a weak pressure in the fuel rail, knocked off timing marks, in the camshaft or crankshaft sensor.

"Megan 2" 1.5 DCI

There may be a lot of the above reasons. But if Renault-Megan 2 1.5 DCI does not start, then perhaps they tried to start the car "from the pusher". This can lead to broken timing marks. On this engine, the tooth on the gear, from which the camshaft sensor receives an impulse, is located on the injection pump pulley. If synchronization is out of order, the car will not start.

Diesel engine

If the starter works unevenly, in jerks, the engine does not show signs of life, then the timing belt should be checked. It may be torn. If the starter turns normally, smoke comes out of the pipe, but the engine does not start, then this indicates that there is at least fuel in the cylinders. So, this is definitely not a high-pressure fuel pump. So, you need to check the filter (it can be clogged with dirt), the fuel line, the quality of the fuel and the level of paraffin that it contains. These signs can be a signal for the need to repair the injectors.

The situation is when the starter turns, but white smoke appears and the diesel Renault-Megan 2 does not start, the mixture does not ignite in the cylinders or only partially ignites. At the same time, the fuel system is in good working order. The glow plugs may be defective. Could have jumped the injection pump belt. And the worst diagnosis is low compression.

Conclusion

If then the first thing to check in this car is the wiring and connectors of the sensors, the fuel pump connector. These are the weak points of this model. Power to the pump is often lost. The connection in the sensor connectors is also lost. If the Renault-Megan 2 1.6 does not start, then the reason in most cases is precisely in the wiring and only then in everything else. If the wiring is checked, then further diagnostics depends on whether the starter is turning or not.