What is "failure"? This is the effect when the car does not accelerate by pressing the accelerator pedal. Usually the failure lasts a few seconds, and then the "dash" effect comes. This is a fairly common problem with the fuel injection system. On Kalina, it does not occur often, but it does happen.

Video about gas dips on an injection engine:

This video material will tell about such malfunctions as gas "dips", the causes of occurrence, methods of elimination, and also contains some recommendations for car owners.

Drop in speed and failure of the gas pedal

There are few reasons for the phenomenon of "failure" when pressing the gas pedal. Often, it appears after an unsuccessful chip tuning of the engine and is accompanied, but there are other problems with the injection itself. So, let's consider the main reasons for the “failure” effect:

• Nozzles ... The fuel distribution system directly affects engine performance.

  Clogged nozzles

• Damage to the injector .
• Out of order fuel supply system .
• Temperature sensors wear engine and mixture enrichment.
• Errors in the electronic engine control unit.

  Determination and elimination of ECU errors

• Spark plug ... This is the most common cause of accelerator pedal failure.

  Candle state. Too rich mixture on the left, poor mixture on the right

These are all the main reasons that can lead to gas pedal failures.

Overclocking dips

When considered, the causes of the occurrence can be considered how to deal with the problem. So, let's describe in stages what needs to be done when the gas pedal has dips during acceleration:

1. The first step is to check the spark plugs. Carbon deposits or plugs that are too clean indicate that the mixture is not properly adjusted. It is worth adjusting the correct amount of fuel mixture.
2. Ignition wires can also cause the vehicle to malfunction.
3. A clogged throttle can lead to dips during acceleration.
4. The condition of the air filter affects the formation of the mixture, so it is worth changing it on time.

   Clogged air filter

5. The fuel pump () as well as the condition of the fuel filter can affect the injection. Therefore, in case of failures, it is necessary to diagnose them. To diagnose and check its operation, as well as the condition of the mesh filter.

   Dirty fuel filter

6. ECU errors can also lead to accelerator failures.
7. The last reason is the clogged nozzles. They need to carry out diagnostics, check the functionality, and also clean and replace faulty elements.

Thus, the causes of overclocking failures have been identified and can be eliminated.

Gas dips at idle

At idle, there are fewer reasons for failures, but they will have to be eliminated, since the car simply will not, starts normally, or stalls after starting the engine. So, let's consider a step-by-step work plan:

1. Checking the spark plugs. In case of failure, the element must be replaced.

Checking and adjusting the spark plug gap with a feeler gauge

All these reasons can serve as the fact that dips appear at idle (more precisely, when switching from idle to driving mode).

conclusions

The main reason for the appearance of failures is spark plugs, but not only they affect the appearance of such an effect. Some motorists may not be able to cope with the occurrence of such malfunctions on their own, and it is necessary to go to a car service, where they will make high-quality diagnostics and also fix the problem. But it should be borne in mind that you will have to be generous, since neither, nor repairs will cost a penny.

Good day! The question is to those who have encountered this problem. So I'll start from afar to make the situation clearer. In general, I wrote earlier that I had a problem with the fact that at a traffic light the rpm sat down to 500, then rose to 1200, then leveled off and everything started in a circle several times, and if left on hot, at idle, it could stall altogether, but it stalled softly, as if just turned the key, and the canister purge valve also clicked. I drove for a long time according to different diagnostics, as a result, they found air leakage through the rubber bands of the receiver, changed the IAC, washed the throttle, changed the filter and the mesh, after this replacement curve the gas pump whistled, the dips seemed to become less frequent, but it stalled anyway and only when it was hot when left on idle. As a result, I got to one diagnostician, he found a bent throttle flap, made the firmware and the car seemed to go, the gas pump stopped whistling after a month and a half. Everything seemed to be fine, but over time, I began to notice such a thing that when the arrow of the tank is in the red zone, the car seemed to be changed, it starts to drive very cheerfully with less pressure on the gas pedal, plus there is clearer information content from the pedal and less engine roar when accelerating. .e. even from the bottom (dvig. 1.4) accelerates with a pleasant sound, and not with a fart that is about to die. BUT it is worth pouring gasoline above the red zone, the car becomes sluggish, when accelerating in second gear, the car does not react to how much the gas pedal is pressed, that the pedal is on the floor, that the acceleration speed does not change to half, the speed rises somehow slowly, but if you swing your foot on the gas pedal several times, you can achieve a slight acceleration, but still not like on an empty tank (for a difference in weight of 30 liters, I think it's silly to say what will affect acceleration). Plus, when accelerating from the bottom, an unpleasant, as it were, slightly farting sound of the engine (not exhaust), it feels like it lacks either air or gasoline. I drove like this for almost a year, I could not find a reason, there were similar topics on the service and on the Internet, but there were no specific solutions, most simply do not believe that a car can drive more vigorously on an empty tank. There is no air in the tank and other zips. Recently, the gas pump whistled again, but the car drove briskly and on a full tank, so the pump was still native since 2009, I decided that the problem was in it and changed it, like it started to go, then I also found a topic about RTD and changed it to catch up. The car came to life with any tank, traveled like this for a week and a half and went to another city on the highway, everything was gorgeous, the acceleration became excellent, up to 150 did not even notice how quickly it was gaining. BUT, having driven somewhere 70-80 kilometers, I began to notice that something was wrong again, and when I was driving back I had to fire a fireman on the third to overtake. In general, now I do not know where to dig, the car is now driving according to my mood, no matter how many liters in the tank, for example, I leave for work in the morning, it dulls, the gas is on the floor, and as a pensioner it accelerates slowly, I will leave it in the parking lot, in the evening I leave it cheerfully with slippage in second and third gear, as if the engine had been changed. So far, I cannot catch any pattern (if earlier it was from the level of gasoline in the tank). I also forgot to write that even after replacing the RTD with a hot one, it starts poorly in half of the cases, you have to squeeze out the gas. I only go on gasoline, there is no gas equipment. Who faced such a problem or knows what the reason may be, please tell me.

www.drive2.ru

Tupit on overclocking? Dig! - logbook Lada Kalina Sedan 2006 on DRIVE2

As you know, every car needs attention. So mine demanded. Sluggish acceleration, vibration, consumption, jolts when switching. List of suspects: 1. DMRV sensor. I recently measured www.drive2.ru/l/477094589040165062/. The reading on the multimeter is 1.04 V.

According to the diagnostics, it showed 1.016 V. There is a third way - remove the chip from the mass air flow sensor and drive. Have not tried it.

Full size

DMRV 1.016 V.

2. Candles. I forgot to take a picture. Yesterday I was shooting like new. Candles cost 17dv. www.drive2.ru/l/473344429755728085/. I'm going to put on DENSO.

3. Air filter. Yesterday I got it dirty. Blown off the compressor. I breathed better. I went easier.

photo from the Internet. I looked like it was.

4. I have long wanted to try to let the antifreeze past the throttle valve. The fitting used from the old radiator.

So I sawed it off.

did also

5. Corrugation. www.drive2.ru/l/478326591819088066/. I saw some cars climb inside. I thought, too. It turned out not. Only rattled and siphoned. Although the sound could play a role too. After replacement, the vibration went away.

Free passage

6. It remains to look at the nozzles. There is no smell of gasoline. But the o-rings have already been purchased. Took a flush for the injector and valves. I will do as I fill the tank. After that, you will need to replace the candles as recommended.

Like this

7. Here I will just post screenshots from diagnostics. Guys who understand can notice. I would be glad to advice.

www.drive2.ru

Dips when pressing the gas pedal Lada Kalina: acceleration and idle

What is "failure"? This is the effect when the car does not accelerate by pressing the accelerator pedal. Usually the failure lasts a few seconds, and then the "dash" effect comes. This is a fairly common problem with the fuel injection system. On Kalina, it does not occur often, but it does happen.

Video about gas dips on an injection engine:

This video material will tell about such malfunctions as gas "dips", the causes of occurrence, methods of elimination, and also contains some recommendations for car owners.

Causes of the phenomenon

Drop in speed and failure of the gas pedal

There are few reasons for the "failure" phenomenon when the gas pedal is pressed. It often appears after an unsuccessful chip tuning of the engine and is accompanied by an increase in fuel consumption, but there are other problems with the injection itself. So, let's consider the main reasons for the “failure” effect:

These are all the main reasons that can lead to gas pedal failures.

Overclocking dips

When considered, the causes of the occurrence can be considered how to deal with the problem. So, let's describe in stages what needs to be done when the gas pedal has dips during acceleration:

Thus, the causes of overclocking failures have been identified and can be eliminated.

Gas dips at idle

At idle, there are fewer reasons for failures, but they will have to be eliminated, since the car simply will not, starts normally, or stalls after starting the engine. So, let's consider a step-by-step work plan:

1. Checking the spark plugs. In case of failure, the element must be replaced.

Checking and adjusting the spark plug gap with a feeler gauge

All these reasons can serve as the fact that dips appear at idle (more precisely, when switching from idle to driving mode).

conclusions

The main reason for the appearance of failures is spark plugs, but not only they affect the appearance of such an effect. Some motorists may not be able to cope with the occurrence of such malfunctions on their own, and it is necessary to go to a car service, where they will make high-quality diagnostics and also fix the problem. But it should be borne in mind that you will have to be generous, since neither computer diagnostics nor repairs will cost a penny.

carfrance.ru

Engine problems (troit, twitches, pulls poorly), causes

Does the car jerk at low revs or when accelerating? Engine troit and burns Check Engine? The car has lost momentum and is not driving as before? In the article we will tell you about all the possible causes of these malfunctions and how to solve the problem.

It should be noted that the causes of malfunctions are similar for all modern Lada cars (Kalina, Granta, Priora, Largus, Vesta, Niva or XRAY), because AvtoVAZ equips them with engines of the same characteristics.

It is recommended to start searching for the problem with diagnostics (reading errors). If this is not possible, then first we perform a check (or install a known working spare part / sensor for a while), and only then change the faulty parts.

If the engine troit at idle, or the car jerks during acceleration (movement), possible causes:

Malfunctions in the ignition system

1. The spark plugs are defective.
2. High voltage wires are defective.
3. Ignition module / coils defective.

Malfunctions in the fuel system

1. Clogged fuel filter or fuel line.
2. The fuel injectors or their circuits are faulty.
3. The fuel pump is defective.
4. The fuel pressure regulator (RDT) is inoperative.

You need to check the pressure in the fuel system.

Malfunction of sensors or their circuits

1. Crankshaft position sensor (DPKV).
2. Coolant temperature sensor (DTOZH).
3. Throttle position sensor (TPS).
4. Mass air flow sensor (DMRV).
5. Knock sensor (DD).
6. Oxygen sensor (DK).

More details about sensors.

Other malfunctions of the engine and systems

1. Compression in the engine cylinders is low.
2. The cylinder head gasket is damaged.
3. The engine control system is defective.
4. The valves of the gas distribution mechanism are burnt out, leaking.
5. The exhaust system is leaking.
6. Valve clearance not adjusted (8-valve engines only).
7. Hydraulic pushers are defective.
8. The engine air filter is dirty.
9. Vacuum hose connections are leaking.

Have you experienced power dips or unstable engine performance? What was the reason? We solve similar problems of power units in the comments, or on the forum. Recall, along with misfiring, other engine malfunctions can occur, for example, floating speed.

Keywords: Lada Grant engine | engine lada priora | engine lada kalina | engine Lada Kalina 2 | engine lada largus | engine lada vesta | niva engine | lada xray engine | universal article

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"Peter - AT"
TIN 780703320484
OGRNIP 313784720500453

Good day,
First of all, the topic is addressed to those who had at least some experience of operating a LADA car.
The cause of the malfunction in the engine (1.6, injector, 8 cl. Euro-3).
Signs:so that everyone understands what is wrong with the engine - I’ll say more simply: all the signs of an advanced stage of a clogged catalyst!
(i.e., poor engine start, does not develop revs, high operating temperature of the engine during prolonged operation, does not eat AT ALL in any way, you have to unload like an old motorcycle, even in order to get off normally). I'll say right away - it's not about him!

Now a little background:the car was purchased new in 2005, initially the engine seemed "strangled". But without paying attention to this, they referred to the reason for its Euro-3 environmental class (it was not possible to compare the dynamics of the engine at that time). So we traveled for several years.
By that time, the engine was becoming less dynamic, and, referring to its mileage (50-70 t.km), they decided that the catalyst had definitely melted. After listening to stories about how easy it is to get rid of him, we did not take into account one thing :) If everything were so simple, he turned out to be metal, not kiramic))). A separate story is how we got rid of it, but the result was still achieved. We start the engine, get under way and ... OH GOD! its dynamics did not change in any way, only it became louder ((((
At about the same time, another malfunction appeared: the engine started to warm up during operation (high-quality antifreeze was used from the moment the car was operated !!). Now he not only does not pull, but also heats up.
The next struggle began with the second wrong.
The temperature sensor was replaced, then the pump, then the thermostat, then again the temperature sensor, and then the radiator itself. All of this continued throughout the year.
Here we decided that the increased operating temperature of the engine is a side effect of its first malfunction.
Are the tags lost? No, everything is fine.
Again all forces were thrown into the search for the first reason.
The next step was to change the engine program to Euro-2 class. We get under way - the result is zero! ... We continue to ride.
The dynamics of the car over time became comparable to a loaded car with 3, 4, 5, 10 sacks of potatoes, and then it was as if you were towing a car. Mileage is already 100-130 t.km.
It's time to change the grid of the fuel pump - the result is zero, then the fuel pump - the result is zero, cleaning the injectors - the same story.
I am already silent how many diagnostics have been done since the moment of operation. The parameters are always normal, but the question "why does not it pull?" there are no exact answers. "Try to change that, do this, check the labels."
I've been checking the timing marks like a fool almost every month for several years now - in case they suddenly got lost?
If only I knew earlier what result these troubleshooting would lead to (
What is most interesting is that all the repairs done were typical for the operation of a LADA car, but only now I understand that most of them were in vain.
Perhaps I would have continued to drive like this, but since last week the car stopped driving altogether. It accelerates only to a quarter of the gas and then in a straight line, and when starting up the hill, where it is necessary to give more gas, it completely chokes (buzzing and eating 1-2 km / h).

Maybe there are GURU and SENSEY among you who will tell you what is the reason?

PS I have the most extensive experience in operating the domestic auto industry, and I myself am a mechanic by profession, I thought that LADA cars were studied up and down. He was doing the repairs himself, and it seemed that the signs were typical. BUT THIS OCCASION PUT ME ON KEEL.