Yesterday, one of our regular customers came to us on the recently acquired Kalina of the second generation, replacing the timing belt, roller and pump plus all fluids, but more on that in another article. Same this engine was installed on Grant, so this article will be relevant for her as well. On the speedometer 60,000 and I believe that for this motor this optimal interval replacements, even though all reference books say about 75,000.

Let's make a reservation right away that when the timing belt breaks on this car bends the valve. It is recommended to check the condition of the belt every 15,000 kilometers.

For work, we need a set of keys and heads, as well as a 5 hexagon and a key for tension roller... The whole procedure takes about an hour and a half.

The engine is similar to the eighth.

To begin with, remove the protection, drain the antifreeze and you can remove the right front wheel... Next, we loosen the locknut of the alternator belt tensioner. Unscrew the tensioner pin with a 10 head and remove the belt.

We unscrew the four bolts with a 5 hexagon and remove the upper protective cover of the timing belt.

We expose the top dead center (TDC). We twist the crankshaft by the pulley bolt clockwise until the mark coincides with the camshaft sprockets and protective casing Timing

Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. We block the wheels with stops, tighten the handbrake, turn on the fifth gear and unscrew this bolt with a light movement of a key with a one and a half meter pipe extension.

We remove the protective washer.

On stars crankshaft the marks must be aligned with the outflow of the oil pump.

Praise to the designers of AvtoVAZ, finally, rollers with a tension indicator appeared on the engines, now there is no need to pull it by eye and check the tension by twisting the belt, not even thirty years have passed since the invention of such a design. We unscrew the tension roller bolt and dismantle the latter, and also remove the old timing belt strap. The photo shows that the belt has stretched out as the tension marks have dispersed, when monitoring the condition of the timing belt, if you see this, you just need to tighten it.

To replace the pump, we need to remove the camshaft sprocket, and also unscrew a few bolts of the inner casing and remove it.

Three bolts down and a replacement pump. The green arrow indicates the tension roller bolt hole.

Having changed the water pump, we proceed to install a new timing belt.

We put the camshaft cover and sprocket in place. We check the coincidence of all the labels, they were mentioned above. We put the tension roller, but do not tighten the bolt. Dress new belt, we observe the direction of rotation, first on the sprocket of the crankshaft, camshaft, tension roller and pump, the latter can be swapped. We tighten the timing belt. Use a special key to turn the roller counterclockwise, as indicated on its body ...

… Until the marks on it coincide and tighten the bolt.

We turn the crankshaft two turns and again check the coincidence of the marks and the belt tension.

We install all the parts in the reverse order of removal, fill in antifreeze and start. It couldn't be easier.

Good luck on the road. Not a nail, not a rod!

We hang the right front wheel and turn on the fifth gear in the gearbox. Turning the wheel clockwise, we turn the engine crankshaft and inspect the timing belt. With normal belt tension ...

The surface of the toothed part of the belt must not have folds, cracks, undercuts of teeth and peeling of fabric from rubber. back side the belt should not have wear, exposing the cords, and traces of burning. There should be no delamination or loosening on the end surfaces of the belt. If defects are found on the belt or a significant mismatch of the belt tension control elements (see photo above), the belt must be replaced. You should also change the belt to a new one if traces are found on it. engine oil (Before installing a new belt, the cause of oil on the belt must be eliminated) or when replacing the coolant pump.

Attention! Failure of the timing belt (breakage and shearing of teeth) can lead to the valves sticking into the pistons due to mismatch of the angles of rotation of the crankshaft and camshafts and, as a result, to expensive engine repairs.

We replace the timing belt in accordance with the maintenance regulations every 75 thousand kilometers or in case of defects on the belt.

Next, we should dismantle the alternator drive belt or the accessory drive belt.

To avoid damage to the crankshaft position sensor, remove it.

Before dismantling the belt, it is necessary to check the valve timing of the engine - set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position ( top dead points) of the compression stroke.

Before loosening the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley ...

Using the "17" head, unscrew the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley, ..

This will rotate the tension roller and release the belt tension. Remove the timing belt from the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys.

Attention! After removing the timing belt, the crankshaft and camshafts must not be turned to avoid the pistons sticking into the valves.

To remove the belt tension roller, unscrew the bolt of its fastening ...

The roller should rotate quietly, evenly and without jamming. Otherwise, the roller must be replaced. At the same time, you can check the serviceability of the coolant pump by twisting and shaking it by the pulley. We install the tension roller in place, completely without tightening the bolt of its fastening. For different engine modifications, two threaded holes are made in the cylinder head for the tension roller bolt.

Install the timing belt in reverse order. Before installing the belt, make sure that the timing marks of the crankshaft and camshaft are aligned. We put the belt on the crankshaft toothed pulley, then ...

If necessary, turn the camshaft pulley in the direction of the smallest stroke until the belt teeth coincide with the pulley cavities. To tension the belt, turn the tension roller counterclockwise. To do this, insert into the grooves of the outer disk of the roller ... DSC_8

We tighten the belt by turning the belt tension roller counterclockwise ...

… Until the cutout of the outer disk of the roller coincides with the rectangular protrusion of its inner sleeve, and tighten the roller bolt to a torque of 34–41 Nm.

… Until the cutout of the outer disk of the roller coincides with the rectangular protrusion of its inner sleeve, and tighten the roller bolt to a torque of 34–41 Nm.

Excessive belt tension will reduce belt life as well as the life of the coolant pump and idler roller bearings. Insufficient belt tension also leads to it premature exit out of order and can cause a violation of the valve timing. We turn the crankshaft two turns clockwise. We check the belt tension and the coincidence of the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks. With the generator drive pulley removed, it is convenient to control the correct position of the crankshaft ...

Maintenance of Lada Granta for 45 thousand kilometers] [Maintenance of Lada Granta for 75 thousand kilometers] [Maintenance for Lada Granta for 90 thousand kilometers] [

Starting from the VAZ-2108 model, Volzhsky car factory switched to the use of a timing belt drive, and continues to use it on modern models, including the Lada Granta.

This type of drive has a number of advantages over a chain drive, including:

• no need for lubrication, which is why it is possible to move the timing drive to the outside of the motor;
• quiet operation and easier replacement process.

But the belt runs much less than the chain. Therefore, the basis for a long and trouble-free operation of the power plant is a timely check of the condition of the belt and its replacement.

Replacement frequency

The manufacturer's technical documentation indicates that the timing belt on the Lada Grant must be replaced every 60 thousand kilometers.

But here it is worth noting that this is a boundary value and it is better to replace it before reaching such a mileage, approximately by 50 thousand km, but there are times when the drive requires replacement by 40, or even 30 thousand km, it all depends on the quality of the belt and its working conditions.

In any case, it is better to periodically check the condition of the drive (it is recommended every 15 thousand km) and if signs of wear are found, replace it immediately.

If this is not done, then its breakage is possible, which is fraught with serious consequences - the engine pistons collide with the open valves, leading to their damage and subsequent expensive repairs.

Design features of the drive of different motors

To understand how maintenance work is performed with a timing drive, first consider its design.

So, the gas distribution mechanism is driven from the crankshaft. In this case, the valve timing in the engine cylinders has 4 cycles and they are performed in two full revolutions of the crankshaft.

But 2 of these cycles occur with closed valves, so the camshaft must ensure only one-time closing and opening of the valves for all 4 cycles.

Therefore, there is only one camshaft revolution per two crankshaft revolutions. Moreover, this is achieved quite simply - due to the different diameters of the drive gear pulleys.

The belt has a toothed working surface, which excludes slippage on the pulleys. In addition to transmitting force from the crankshaft, the belt performs another function - it drives the cooling system pump.

In this case, the drive must be constantly tensioned in order to exclude jumping of the teeth on the pulleys, therefore, a tension roller is included in its design.

This and the entire drive structure, that is, it includes only two toothed pulleys (crankshaft and camshaft), a pump gear, a tension roller and the belt itself.

All this is located on the side of the engine, not inside. But in order to exclude the ingress of dirt and technical fluidsthat could harm the belt, all elements are covered with protective shields.

But this describes the design of the 8-valve gas distribution mechanism, for which only one camshaft is used.

But some Lada Grant models are equipped with engines with a 16-valve timing mechanism and two camshafts. But because of this, the design of the drive does not change much.

Unlike the 8-valve, there is not one, but camshafts and, accordingly, two toothed pulleys, and another roller has been added to the design - a bypass roller, which is also a support one. This is where all the differences ended.

Checking the condition and tension

As already noted, so that a broken belt does not lead to serious problems, it is periodically necessary to check its condition and tension.

Checking the condition of the belt is quite simple and you can do it yourself.

To do this, unscrew and remove the protective covers of the drive, unscrew the front right wheel, engage an overdrive and turn the wheel.

The engaged gear will ensure the rotation of the crankshaft and the timing drive through the gearbox.

When rotating, carefully inspect the belt. If any defects or signs of wear are noticed on it - torn teeth, peeling of rubber from threads, cracks, significant abrasions, then the belt must be changed regardless of the mileage.

Additionally, when checking the condition of the drive, its tension should be assessed.

Although a roller with an automatic tension is used on Grant, it is impossible to rely on the fact that it works normally, and it is better to check the tension, especially since it is very simple to perform.

The belt must be taken with two fingers in the middle of the area opposite to the tension roller, that is, on the span between the shaft pulleys, and turn it clockwise.

Moreover, if even with significant effort it cannot be twisted by an angle greater than 90 degrees, then the belt is tensioned normally. If it twists at a greater angle, then it is necessary to adjust its tension.

What you need to replace the belt

So, to perform the work, you will need such a tool, accessories:

1. A set of open-end and ring spanners of the most common sizes;
2. Hexagon set;
3. Powerful screwdriver or mounting paddle, pry bar;
4. A special wrench for tightening the tension roller or at least round-nose pliers for removing the retaining rings;
5. Marker;
6. Rags.

Naturally, a new belt of the appropriate size will be needed, as well as a new tensioner pulley, since it must be replaced along with the belt. Having prepared all this, you can proceed to disassembly.

Disassembly

The sequence of work is as follows:

1. We install the car on a flat surface, or in the garage. The negative terminal is removed from the battery;
2. We rotate the right front wheel and remove it from the car. Disconnect the wiring from the crankshaft position sensor. If there are protective pads on the wheel arch liner that prevent access to the crankshaft pulley, we also dismantle them. In general, we remove everything that can interfere with access;
3. Using a 5 hexagon, unscrew the bolts securing the upper timing cover and remove it. We loosen the fastening and tension of the generator, shift it towards the engine and remove drive belt;
4. To make the marks on the camshaft pulley better visible, add an additional mark on it with a marker;
   
5. We rotate the crankshaft for the bolt of the generator drive pulley until the mark on the camshaft toothed pulley aligns with the mark on the cylinder head protrusion. After that, remove the rubber plug of the inspection hatch located on the flywheel housing. There are also marks on the special ledge and the flywheel itself. And if, after aligning the marks on the camshaft pulley through the hatch, it is noticeable that they coincided on the flywheel, then further work can be continued, since this indicates that the piston of the 1st cylinder was installed at TDC.
   But if the marks on the flywheel do not match, it is necessary to turn the crankshaft another 2 turns, the main thing is that all the alignment marks are aligned;
6. We unscrew the bolt securing the generator drive pulley. In this case, it is important to prevent even the slightest cranking of the crankshaft and displacement of marks. You can use a pry bar or a powerful screwdriver to loosen the bolt.
   We drive it into the inspection hatch between the flywheel teeth and rest against the crankcase, thereby blocking the crankshaft. You can do it in a different way: ask the assistant to turn on the 4 or 5 speed at the checkpoint, as well as issue the brake pedal, thereby using the transmission to exclude the crankshaft rotation while unscrewing the bolt;
7. After completely unscrewing the bolt, carefully remove the generator drive pulley and the washer installed under it;
8. Unscrew the bolts securing the lower protective cover with a hexagon. Providing full access to the belt;
9. Loosen the tension roller mounting bolt with a key, after which it will loosen the belt tension. Before removing it, once again check the coincidence of all setting marks;
   
10. Carefully remove the belt first from the tension roller, and then from the teeth of the camshaft, pump and crankshaft. After that, completely unscrew the tension roller mount and remove it. This completes the disassembly.
    

Features of disassembling a 16-valve motor

As for the 16-valve engine, the disassembly sequentially is completely identical to that described, with the exception of one point - the installation of marks. Since this engine uses two camshafts, the marks must be aligned on both, and do not forget about the marks on the flywheel.

Also, during disassembly, in addition to the tension roller, it will be necessary to dismantle the bypass roller, since it also needs to be replaced.

After removing the belt, you should also check the bearing play on the pump. If it is significant, then it is better to replace it immediately. Otherwise, it may soon fail after replacing the belt and the need to re-disassemble the drive, since the pump changes only after dismantling the drive.

Note that after removing the belt, it is important to take care not to accidentally turn one of the shafts when installing a new one.

Assembly, check

The assembly of the drive is carried out in the reverse order, but with observance of certain nuances. First, we put the tension roller in place and bait the bolt of its fastening, but do not tighten it.

In a 16-valve engine, before putting on the belt, we put both rollers in place, but unlike the tension bypass, you can immediately tighten it.

The belt is put on from the bottom up. That is, first, the belt teeth are installed on the crankshaft toothed pulley, then it is thrown onto the pump, then wound up behind the rollers, and only then is put on the camshaft pulley.

After installing the belt, it is tensioned. To do this, a special key or round-nose pliers are installed in special holes in the outer cage of the tension roller, after which it is turned clockwise until the cutout on this cage is aligned with a rectangular sample on inner sleeve.

Holding the roller in this position, the bolt of its fastening is tightened.

Having finished tightening, we install in place the lower protective cover, washer and generator drive pulley. After that, we check the correctness of the work.

To do this, first we check the coincidence of all the marks, then we turn the crankshaft a few turns, after which we again combine all the marks. If they converge, the replacement work is done correctly and the assembly can be continued. Here we note that a slight deviation is allowed on any marks, but not more than a couple of millimeters.

When checking the coincidence of marks on a 16-valve engine, this action should be given more attention, since there are two camshafts, and the mismatch of marks on any of them can lead to significant interruptions in the operation of the engine.

And only after such a check, everything is going further - the generator drive, the upper protective cover, the wiring of the crankshaft position sensor are installed.

Interchangeability of parts

When performing replacement, it is important to use components designed only for installation on Lada Grant engines.

But it is worth mentioning that the same power plants are also used on other VAZ models, for example, on the Priora. Moreover, if they have the same belt, then the tension rollers for the Grant and Priora motors are different, and they are not interchangeable.

On Grant, this element is larger in diameter, but the plastic work surface is narrower than on the Priora.

It is, of course, possible to install a roller from Prior by slightly undercutting the edges of the plastic, as well as placing a washer under it, since the thickness of the metal part of the Grant element is greater.

But due to the difference in diameter, you will have to tighten it more, significantly reducing the automatic adjustment range.

Therefore, if it is planned to replace the drive, then it is necessary to find original spare parts in advance, but sellers who assure that a drive element from another model is suitable - it is better not to believe.

Finally, we note that the whole process of replacing the timing belt with a Lada Granta is not so difficult and even a novice motorist can perform this operation.

The main thing is to take care of the availability of everything you need and carry out the work slowly and carefully.

The popular VAZ 21116 (11186) engine is also installed on the Lada Granta. This motor is not enough stars from the sky, but it is pleasant that its maintenance and repair can be safely done with your own hands in garage conditions... He has several problems, however, and they are solved by careful and timely care. Replacing the timing belt on an 8-valve Grant with your own hands will not cause any problems if you change the belt using technology, not forgetting about choosing a high-quality belt.

There are quite a few tales about what will happen if the timing belt breaks while the engine is running. Unfortunately, regarding the VAZ 21116 engine, most of them are not far from the truth. For this engine, a break in the camshaft drive belt is more than critical. The meeting of pistons with valves, as a rule, does not end too rosy: bent valves, torn connecting rods, punctured cylinder blocks and broken pistons - all this, indeed, can happen if the timing belt is not replaced in time.

Bent valves in the block head

For the engine to serve for a long time and reliably, it is simply enough inspect the drive belt every 10-15 thousand runs camshaft and if alarming symptoms are detected, do not be lazy and immediately change it. Signs that the strap is asking for resignation are understandable even for a teapot:

1. Cracks, cuts, notches and other mechanical damage are clearly visible on the belt surface.
2. The teeth can be damaged or cut off altogether.
3. There are hit marks on the belt operating fluids - oils, gasoline, antifreeze, brake fluid... But before changing the belt, you need to find and eliminate the cause of the fluid leak.
4. Lamination of rubber material.
5. Stretching the belt.

Consequently, belt replacement under normal conditions, when all other units and systems work decently and do not cause any complaints, is carried out through each 40-50 thousand km, and checking the condition of the belt at least every 10-15 thousand km... In this case, the VAZ 21116 engine will roll back its resource of 180-200 thousand before overhaul without problems.

All the same applies to engines with an 8-valve VAZ 11186 head, which are absolutely identical to the VAZ 21116, but have a cylinder-piston group from Federal Mogul.

Which belt is better to buy on Grant and which engine

From the factory, belts of the company are installed on all VAZ engines Gates ... Replacement kit for 8-valve heads carries part number K015670XS ... We dwelt in some detail on the topic of choosing the best timing belts for VAZ engines and, therefore, it makes little sense to repeat. There you can also find out how to distinguish a fake from a good quality kit for replacing the timing belt, as well as all the necessary articles for searching on local sites selling VAZ spare parts.

Italian-Chinese brand Trialli with the part number GD 790 received good reviews from the owners

More good belts. Which fits on the 8-valve Grant

As for our Grants, the difficulty in choosing belts for an eight-valve engine is that an ancient but reliable eight-valve engine was installed on old cars and on cars in the Norm's configuration. VAZ 11183 , an analogue of VAZ 21083. This engine is good because the valve in it does not bend when the belt breaks. For him you need to buy belt with catalog number 2108-1006040-10 , and tension roller 2108-1006120.

New Gates Belt

For the other two motors Grants with an 8-valve cooking block (these are engines VAZ 11186 and VAZ 21116) we buy the following replacement parts:

• camshaft drive belt 21116-1006040 ;
• tension roller 21116-1006226 ;
• if you wish, you can buy a special key for the convenience of adjusting the belt tension 67.7812.9573-01 .

Continental belt

Of course, for this motor there are analogues of other manufacturers and there are a lot of them. Most Popular:

• GАTES - 5670XS, like the original, but in its own box;
• Trialli GD 790, Italian brand, Chinese assembly;
• CONTITECH - CT1164, a great belt from Continental, if not a fake;
• QUARTZ with catalog number QZ-5670XS, good quality German belts;
• INA 530053610, one of the highest quality and most expensive sets;
• DAYCO KTB944, nice Italian kit;
• BOSCH production kit 1987 948 286.

It is important that the strap matches geometric parameters — belt length 1305 mm, number of teeth 113, belt width 17 mm.

We change the timing belt on the Grant with our own hands

When we check the condition of the belt or are about to change it, it is necessary that the engine cool down after the ride. The optimum temperature for replacement is about 20 degrees. According to AvtoVAZ, replacement is critically necessary at the 75th thousand run, but, according to drivers, it is necessary to change more often. To replace, we need a standard set of tools and a special key for tightening the roller.

If all this is there, let's get to work.

It serves to timely open and close valves in the block head. Such a mechanism is also available on Lada Grant. However, there are two types of drive - chain and belt. If we talk about "Grant", then it is the second type that is applied here. It must be said that such a drive is quieter, but less reliable. The chain is always more difficult to break than the belt. However, if you observe the replacement interval, you may not encounter a break. And in today's article we will pay attention to replacing the timing belt "Lada Grants".

How it works?

The principle of operation of this element is quite simple. First, let's tell you about the location. And this element is located on the side of the crankshaft pulley. Since the "Grant" has a transverse engine, the belt is located on the side of the right front wheel. Unlike a chain, it does not require lubrication and therefore is installed openly. The belt has special teeth on the inside. Thanks to them, the element engages with several parts at once:

Thus, when the first shaft rotates in a chain reaction, the rest of the elements also rotate. And since the belt is flexible, it is pulled with a special roller for high-quality engagement. Thus, the two shafts rotate synchronously. It is unacceptable for the belt to jump over one or more teeth. Otherwise, the intake and exhaust settings are instantly lost. This will immediately be felt on the nature of the car's behavior. The car will triple, consume more fuel and not pull.

How often to change?

According to the regulations, it is required to replace the timing belt on a Lada Grant with an 8-valve engine every 75 thousand kilometers. However, the manufacturer recommends checking its condition every 15 thousand kilometers. It often happens that the belt has lost its tension or has acquired signs of wear ahead of schedule.

Signs of wear

How to understand that a given element is out of order? The first sign indicating the need to replace the timing belt on the "Grant" is a significant wear of the material. This usually occurs due to poor performance of the idler roller bearing or a deviation in its position. So, at high humidity, the belt can jump by one or several teeth.

It is important to carefully check the external condition. So, the belt must be replaced if there are tissue remnants, cracks or delamination on it. The more of these defects, the higher the probability that the element will suddenly break. A belt that is too hard should not be used. This will be indicated by the characteristic brilliance of the element. Because of this, good contact with the engine crankshaft pulley is not ensured. What brand should I choose a new belt? It is not necessary to purchase the original. There are several good analogs:

But do not buy too cheap analogs. Otherwise, no one can guarantee that such a belt will serve 75 thousand kilometers specified by the manufacturer.

Preparation

For work we need a standard set of tools, a new belt with a roller, as well as a roller wrench. It would be useful to buy a new alternator belt, since we will also be removing it.

It is not necessary to carry out work on the pit. It is enough to unscrew the right front wheel for convenience. So, you need an additional wheel wrench and a jack. Place anti-roll bars under the machine before lifting.

Getting started

So, first we need to remove the plastic protective cover. This can be done with a 5 Allen key. The cover is secured with four screws. If the 11183 motor is installed on the "Grant", here you need a 10 key for this. It is enough for them to unscrew the three mounting bolts. Next, the crankshaft position sensor is removed. The fastening screw is unscrewed with a 10 key. The DPKV is also dismantled.

Setting labels

Now it is important to install the crankshaft and camshaft according to the marks. To do this, turn on neutral. Remove the rubber cover on the crankcase (closer to the clutch). We need to align the marks in the scale slot and on the flywheel. Then the latter is fixed with a minus screwdriver. The crankshaft itself can be rotated with a key of 17 or 19 (depending on the specific type of motor). Better to perform this operation together. While one rotates the shaft, the second fixes the position of the marks. The main thing is that they match exactly.

What's next?

Then you need to remove the alternator belt. This is the only way to get to the timing belt "Lada Grants". We loosen the tensioner and remove the generator drive. With a 13 key, loosen the lower fastening bolt and unscrew the upper fastening nut. The bolt can also be removed. The generator casing is pressed against the engine by means of a wire and fixed.

Change the belt

When the flywheel is fixed, using a 19 or 17 wrench, unscrew the bolt that holds the generator drive pulley. The pulley together with the washer is dismantled.

• If it is an 11183 series engine, use a 17 key to loosen the retaining nut. The roller itself rotates clockwise.
• On other engines, a head 15 is used. It is used to unscrew the bolt by about three turns. Then the roller will release the belt on its own.

Now we just have to remove the old belt and install a new one. Timing on "Lada Grant" with an 8-valve engine is performed in reverse order. To tighten the outer part of the roller, rotate counterclockwise. In this case, the two marks (rectangular) must coincide with each other. After installing the element, it is worth checking the labels again.

As for the alternator belt, it is installed in the following sequence:

• First, the generator itself is mounted.
• Next, the belt is put on the pulleys.
• Engaging fifth gear, roll the car back.

That's all. Belt change completed successfully. You can begin to fully operate the car.

About tightening torques

When changing the timing belt on a Lada Grant car, it is important to use a torque wrench. So we will know for sure that the bolts and all connections are properly tightened and, most importantly, not overtightened. Depending on the type of part, the following values \u200b\u200bare set on the key:

Please note: when changing the timing belt on a "Lada Grant" with an 8-valve engine, first adjust the tension on the roller. And after that, the fastening bolt is tightened.

Conclusion

So, we found out how to replace the timing belt on the "Lada Grant". As you can see, this operation can be performed independently. In total, the replacement will take about two hours. But if the work is not done for the first time, then the time can be cut in half.