In cases where there is no charge of the VAZ 2107 battery, it is impossible to unequivocally name the reason, since many factors affect this.

The rechargeable battery in the car is used to start the engine, store voltage and provide electrical consumers with power when the engine is not running. To ensure the battery charge and power supply of all electrical equipment during engine operation, it is used car generator, on the serviceability of which the battery life directly depends.

However, not only depends on the generator, whether the VAZ 2107 battery is charged or not, there are other factors that affect the degree of its charging.

On a car, the battery charging circuit looks like this. One of the battery terminals (negative) is connected to the metal part of the body, this is the so-called "ground". The second positive terminal is connected to the vehicle's electrical system. On most vehicles, the plus is permanently connected to the starter terminal and the alternator terminal (terminal 30). Further, from terminal 30 of the generator, power is supplied to the fuse box and from the block to the ignition switch. Then, from the lock, power again enters the fuse box and through fuse No. 10 is supplied to the charge control lamp and voltmeter, and then again through the fuse box connector, power goes to the generator terminal No. 61.

As can be seen from the description of the circuit, many malfunctions can occur on the path of the current from the battery to the generator, but knowing the power supply circuit, you can always track the faulty element, due to which the VAZ 2207 battery is not charged.

The first thing to check first, when there is no charge on the VAZ 2107 battery, is the state of the fuse that protects the charging circuit. Second, this is a visual check of the integrity of the generator drive belt and its tension, as well as the condition of the wires and reliability from fastening both to the battery and to the generator terminals. Along the way, when there is no battery charging, you need to check the reliability of the ground connection from the battery to the body for oxidation of the connection. Sometimes it is enough to give up the nut securing the negative wire to the body, then stir the wire intensively and tighten the connection again.

So far, the connecting elements in the battery charging circuit have been considered, but the most important is always the generator itself, where most of the malfunctions lie when there is no charge of the VAZ 2107 battery.

To control the battery charge, the generator is equipped with a relay - regulator, which is responsible for the lower and upper limits of the battery charge, limiting or increasing the on-board voltage. Very often it is in it that the reason for undercharging or overcharging the battery or its complete absence lies. The relay-regulator is not repairable and must be replaced if the mains voltage does not fit into the norm - 13.7 - 14.5 V. The relay-regulator is combined into a single unit with brushes, the state of which may also affect the battery charge. When there is no battery charging, the reason may be brushes worn out to the limit or their jamming, or hanging in the brush holder. These malfunctions are easy to check visually, for which the brush assembly is removed from the generator and the condition, and the mobility of the brushes is checked by hand pressure.

The lack of battery charge can also be affected by the serviceability of the diode bridge, in the event of a failure of which the voltage may either be absent or the battery may be undercharged or overcharged.

The generator may also have faults in the stator or rotor windings, interturn short circuit of the windings, open circuit or short circuit.

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The modern car has a large number of electrical equipment for various purposes supplied from the on-board network. With the engine running in a VAZ 2107 car, the voltage is supplied by an alternator, which is a synchronous dynamo machine. The unit is driven by a V-belt from the engine pulley. During operation, the natural wear and tear of the device, as a result of which it is not set parameters

The VAZ 2107 car has a generator of one of two versions: model 372.3701 and 9412.3701. The latest later version differs from the previous one in the following elements:

1. The rectifier unit is mounted externally on the rear cover and protected by a plastic housing.
2. The cooling impeller of the device is housed inside, which makes it more efficient.
3. The diameter of the slip rings has been reduced to reduce wear on the brush assembly.

This design provides a reduction in circumference and does not increase production in parts.

External manifestations of unit malfunctions

Diagnostics of electrical failures of a VAZ 2107 car for a driver with relevant experience is not particularly difficult. The generating device provides the voltage required to charge the battery and the stable operation of other devices. Its nominal value is 14 V, which can be measured with a multimeter at the terminals.

If the generator of a VAZ 2107 car gives a voltage of less than 11.5 V, it is necessary to check the degree of tension of the drive belt, it may slip. This is usually accompanied by a characteristic whistling sound that disappears when pulling up. If extraneous noise persists, it is necessary to replace the worn V-belt and check the condition of the rotor bearings.

Dismantling the generator

For a thorough check of the device, it is necessary to remove it from the VAZ 2107 car and disassemble it. Electric generator dismantled with strict adherence to the recommendations. Manufacturer's repair manuals. It is important to disconnect the battery before performing work in order to prevent short circuits when the contact parts of the wire touch the body.

The generator, designed to charge the battery and power the devices, is removed in the following order:

1. The machine is installed above the inspection pit or on a lift; the protection and mudguard on the left are dismantled from it.
2. The wires are disconnected from the generator and the nut is unscrewed, fixing its position on the curly tensioner bar.
3. The belt is removed from the pulleys.
4. We unscrew the bolt securing the device on the bracket and pull it out of the hole.

After that, carefully remove the generator from engine compartment car VAZ 2107, while being careful. The unit is cleaned of dirt with a rag and brush and is examined externally for external damage. This does not guarantee detection of malfunctions, but rotor shaft swing from side to side reveals play in the bearings and, accordingly, their wear.

Checking generator parts

Disassembly of the device installed on the car is performed with a locksmith tool in the following order:

1. Without applying excessive force, we unscrew the bolts securing the voltage regulator and the rectifier unit.
2. Using the key on "8" we disassemble the pins tightening the body and remove the back cover. The generator is divided into several parts.
3. We perform defecation of the bearing and the brush assembly. If the remaining length of the contact devices does not exceed 5 mm, they must be replaced.
4. Damage to the bearing O-rings indicates wear and tear, and this product is dismantled with a new one in its place.
5. We remove the pulley from the rotor, holding it in a vice, while we should not forget about the possibility of deformation of the unit. When tightening, carefully monitor the condition of the part.
6. After that, we take out the shaft from the bearing and check it.

Control of the electrical part of the generating device of the VAZ 2107 car, which provides battery charging and power supply of devices. This uses a multimeter in resistance test mode. It is necessary to make sure that there are no breaks in the rotor and stator windings, as well as that there is no turn-to-turn short circuit. At the next stage, the generator of the VAZ 2107 car is checked for serviceability of the voltage regulator.

This unit is checked according to a specific method using a battery and measuring instruments. After making control measurements and if no deviations are found, we start working with rectifier diode blocks. On the VAZ 2107, the generator is equipped with a circuit of six semiconductor devices, which ensure the linearity of the output characteristics. If during the checks a significant number of faults are revealed, elimination of them does not make sense, it is cheaper to purchase a new one.

The electrical equipment of the VAZ 2107 (injector) ensures the operation of the ignition and many consumers, such as headlights, heater, dashboard, etc. Consumers are powered by a battery, which must be constantly charged. But what to do when there is no injector charging on the VAZ 2107. Let's consider the main reasons for this phenomenon.

Poor contact at the battery terminals

The main and most common cause is poor electrical connections. As a rule, it occurs when the terminals are loosely tightened. With a small area of \u200b\u200bcontact, the terminals begin to spark and oxidize, reducing the amount of current passing per unit of time. Ultimately, the current stops flowing altogether. But the problem may not even allow the engine to start.

First of all, you need to check the condition of the terminals. If they have oxidized, they need to be cleaned and treated with grease. The second point is the correct tightening, which must be carried out to failure. In addition, you need to check the contact connections with the body and on the generator itself. In most cases, the problem goes away.

No battery charging

Battery malfunction on VAZ 2107

The second problem is the battery itself. The fact is that his work is not eternal, and he has a certain expiration date. When correct operation it can last up to 10 years. Its serviceability is determined by its ability to take charge. To do this, you need to connect it to a rectifier and measure the time it takes to fully charge it. Normal battery charged for at least 20 hours, and installed on a car when driving over 60 kilometers.

If charging occurred very quickly or after charging the voltage does not exceed the 12-13 Volt limit, then such a battery is considered faulty.

Generator on Vaz-2107

The generator stopped working on the VAZ 2107

Most often, it is accompanied by the appearance of an indicator on dashboard... It looks like a red battery. The lack of charging can be for several reasons:

1. Generator malfunction
2. Alternator belt torn
3. Defective voltage regulator relay
4. Alternator brushes worn out

Previously, the operation of the generator was checked by one in a simple way - just removed the terminal while the engine was running. If he continued to work, then the generator was considered normal. If the car stalls, there is no charging. Currently, this cannot be done, since the ECU ( the electronic unit control) may fail.

A simple method is used to test the generator. It is necessary to connect a voltmeter to the battery while the engine is running and measure the voltage with the stove on and dipped headlights on. If it is 12 or lower, then the charging is insufficient. Ask your partner to add gas, if the situation has not changed, then the generator is faulty. If the voltage increases, then the relay-regulator is faulty.

In the event of a generator malfunction, you can remove the diode bridge and check it. To do this, each diode is inspected for external damage, and its contacts are called. If it rings in both directions, it is considered faulty. It can be replaced separately or the entire bridge can be changed.

Voltage regulator relay

The voltage regulator relay is a separate unit that was previously installed on the side member. He is responsible for limiting the voltage if it exceeds 14 volts. The fact is that the speed of rotation of the generator can be different, but at the same time the voltage must remain from 13.5 to 14.5 volts. This is what it is designed for. Now it is installed directly on the brushes. If the relay is faulty, then the voltage will be low, but will begin to rise to the nominal value with increasing speed. Thus, its malfunction is determined.

Alternator brush wear

If the charge appears and disappears, then the generator brushes are worn out. Therefore, they need to be changed together with the relay by the regulator. Serviceable brushes should wear evenly. In the case when one is shorter than the other, they are considered to be worn out.

Frequent malfunction of the "power supply system" is simple - the generator does not charge or "wakes up" only at high speeds. Domestic generators are famous for this, both due to the general low quality of manufacture and due to a number of design defects. Faced with the problem of undercharging the battery, it is worthwhile to figure out the causes of the problem - whoever happened to stay on the track with a dead battery and missing charging, will confirm that this is not good enough.

Automotive generator design

Any generator, with the exception of DC models, produces multi-phase alternating current - three or four phases depending on power. Why such a complication, if only d.C.? The fact is that a multiphase alternator has a higher efficiency, and most importantly, the current is removed not by brushes from the rotating rotor, but from the stationary stator windings. Accordingly, there are no problems with the burnout of the collector (the current in it is much less than that produced by the generator), and the collector itself is simpler - two rings, and not a set of isolated lamellas.

A diode bridge is used to convert multiphase AC to DC. At least it contains several powerful diodes for twice the number of phases - they are busy rectifying the current. Some generators also have additional diodes that provide power to the relay regulator.

The relay-regulator itself has long been no longer a relay: instead of an electromechanical device, they are used to control generators electronic circuits, but the name "relay-regulator" is already firmly established behind it. They act in the same way - by changing the current in the rotor winding (and the magnetic field in the core), they increase or decrease the voltage at the generator output so as to keep it within the specified range from 13.7 V (old low-power generators) to 14.5 V (modern generators designed for high power consumption of the onboard network and accelerated battery charging). Modern generators are no longer independent units, but are integrated with on-board controllers: in them, the ECU controls the voltage, raising it after starting the engine to accelerate battery charging, and then reducing it to normal.

The relay-regulator is powered from the external network (Zhiguli, most foreign cars) and from the generator itself through additional bridge diodes (front-wheel drive VAZs). The second circuit is considered less reliable, but it has a distinctive ability to self-excite due to the residual magnetization of the rotor - a generator spinned up to high revs, produces enough current to trigger the relay-regulator and bring it to the operating mode.

Possible causes of malfunctions

Wear of brushes

If the generator does not charge the battery, then the first thing that comes to mind on cars with sufficient mileage is brush wear. In generators, there are few purely mechanical components that affect its performance - and the brushes constantly rubbing against the collector are erased.

With wear, the contact deteriorates, and accordingly the current in the rotor winding also drops. At first, the generator gives little charge for low revs, "Waking up" after rebasing, then completely fails. The brushes themselves can be like a separate node, and interlocked with a relay-regulator.

Removing the brush assembly from the generator, you can easily feel how far it can be extended so that the elasticity of the springs is no longer felt - this will be the residual working length of the longest brush. Please note that more often the brushes wear out unevenly: from the side of the cover, where dirt and brush wear products accumulate, the brush wears off faster. This is also noticeable by the presence of a groove on one of the rings.

The groove itself is not so bad if it is rubbed evenly. Here is a wavy one with sharp changes in diameter - a direct indication of replacing slip rings or rotor assembly.
On foreign generators, a monoblock design is found, when the diode bridge, the relay-regulator, and the brush assembly are one whole. Replacing such a monoblock is not cheap, and it's stupid to do it when some brushes are worn out. Therefore, they are re-soldered, selecting suitable ones from domestic generators or power tools.

Break

In the rotor, in addition to the wear of the slip rings, there are few probable causes of the malfunction - relatively small currents do not allow the winding to burn out, a wire break occurs much more often at the junction with the collector. The rotor is checked by a tester: first, the resistance between the rings of the collector is measured, then between the rings and the "mass". In the first case, the resistance is several ohms, in the second - "infinite" (there is no short circuit of the winding to the case).

Stator and diode bridge

Another reason why the generator does not charge is the most loaded units: the stator and the diode bridge. With constant overloads, they overheat, which for the stator is fraught with destruction of insulation, a short circuit to the case and a fire in the winding, and for a diode bridge - a failure or breakdown of diodes. Outwardly, the symptoms are similar - the power of the generator drops (one or two phases do not work), or the generator completely fails.

The stator is evaluated first of all externally - there should be no darkening of the insulation and the smell of burning. Then, using a tester, the resistance of each phase winding and the absence of its short circuits to the case are checked.

With the help of a battery and a test lamp - in the testers, the voltage during testing is low, and the broken diode can thus be skipped. A 12-volt 40-60 W bulb and a battery are more reliable in this regard.
The test circuit is simple: "minus" from the battery is connected to the power terminal of the diode bridge, "plus" through the lamp is alternately connected to each terminal of the bridge to which the stator windings were connected. If the light is off on one of the phases, the diodes have burned out. Next, we change the polarity of the connection - in this case, the light does not light up on any phase, otherwise it will indicate a breakdown of the diodes in the bridge. We repeat the procedure by connecting the "mass" already to the "horseshoe" of the diode bridge - the lamp does not light up. When reconnected, it should be lit on all phases. Additional diodes are checked from the stator inputs to the terminal going to the relay controller.

In this case, malfunctions of the stator and the diode bridge are closely related: punctured power diodes will lead to overheating of the winding in the corresponding phase, since it is short-circuited.

Relay regulator problem

The procedure is design dependent. External (as on old "Zhiguli") in the absence of charging is easy to check - making sure that current flows to the brush assembly after turning on the ignition (by connecting an ammeter in the circuit between terminal 67 of the relay-regulator and the brush assembly). No current - change the "chocolate".

If the relay-regulator is combined with the brush assembly, then you can measure the voltage on the brushes after turning on the ignition: it may be less than the onboard one, but it must be. Do not check the relay-regulators without load: the output voltage in this case may be, but when the load is applied to the faulty relay-regulator, it will drop sharply, and the working unit will have to be recognized as defective.

The lack of current in the stator winding will not necessarily be the result of a malfunction of the relay-regulator itself. Remember what we wrote above about relay power circuits. In generators with additional diodes, it comes from the generator itself, on an idle motor, only the current through the control lamp goes to the relay-regulator. Such generators are easy to distinguish - only one low-current terminal from the control lamp is suitable for them. The relay is considered defective if the additional diodes in the bridge are working properly.

In generators with external excitation, at least two low-current inputs are required - one from the control lamp, the second - "plus" ignition. This is a very common scheme on Asian generators, where the pinout of the low-current connector can be easily deciphered by the marking (L - test lamp, IG - ignition). In generators of this type, after the ignition is turned on, the voltage at the IG terminal is always present, otherwise the generator will not be excited.

Video: The reason for the lack of battery charge on the VAZ 2101. How to find

Printing

The battery is the only voltage source when starting the engine. As you might guess, if it is inoperative, starting the engine will be problematic. In this article, we will tell you why the car generator does not charge the battery and what to do in such cases.

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Lack of charging process

The fact that the generator does not charge for battery, can be reported by a diode indicator located on the instrument panel. Typically, this icon is depicted in the form of the battery itself, and when the electrical part on a functioning engine is working normally, it usually does not light up. You can see this indicator on the dashboard after you turn the key in the lock to position I. At this moment, all devices are diagnosed, so the appearance of the indicator at this moment is a completely normal situation. In the event that the indicator continues to light while driving, this may indicate that the generator is not charging the battery.

Accordingly, the driver needs to solve such a problem as quickly as possible, because otherwise it can lead to more serious consequences than just the indicator that appears on the tidy. Sometimes the generator set does not charge the battery due to the inoperability of the latter. Moreover, it will not be possible to somehow solve such a malfunction except by replacing the battery. But sometimes it can be due to wrong work and generator.

Causes and remedies

If you have the opportunity to borrow someone else's battery for testing, then you can try to put it on the car instead of your own. Of course, this battery must be fully operational. Actually, in this way you can find out what the cause of the problem is - in the battery or in the generator. Below we will consider the reasons for such a malfunction.

Internal state of the battery

Usually, the reason why the generator cannot charge the battery is the sulfation of the latter's plates. In this case, the surface of the plates may be covered with salts - partially or completely - which prevent the battery from being charged. In the event that the degree of coverage of the plates is small, then, in principle, you can always try to restore the battery's performance. However, if the destruction process is already irreversible, it will be necessary to replace the device.

As for the restoration of the battery structure from sulfation, this process can take more than one day, and the result and quality of restoration cannot be guaranteed. This means that you may need a new battery over time anyway. The resuscitation procedure, as a rule, begins when there are no signs of swelling, mechanical damage, cracks, etc. on the battery. That is, the body of the device must be intact.

But it should be borne in mind that the external state is not always a guarantee that the result will suit you. There are cans inside the structure, in which plates can break off, which ultimately leads to a short circuit. If so, then there are no other options other than buying a new battery.

Terminals

Occasionally, the indicator light may appear while driving the car. At this point, do not panic, as the reason can be quite commonplace. When hitting a bump or into a pit, the contact can simply fly off the battery, especially if the terminal was poorly screwed. If so, then you just need to put it back in place and tighten it harder.

Problems with terminals can manifest themselves if they oxidize, in the place where they connect to the terminal. To solve this problem, the oxidation just needs to be cleaned out. To do this, you need fine-grit sandpaper. In the process, you need to be as careful as possible, because you can accidentally cut off the lead part of the lead, and this is unacceptable. If you erase more layer than necessary, the terminal will not hold well and will begin to subside on every bump (video author - Avramenko Garage).

Generator belt

What kind of charge should the generator give and for what reasons does it overcharge or the inability to charge the battery? Quite often, the problem lies in the knot's strap - with a weak tension, the belt will begin to slip on the shaft, at the moment the knot will not be able to supply voltage to the system. The battery is switched over and the charged battery is transformed from an energy consumer into a consumption source that gradually discharges.

Diagnostics of the degree of strap tension can be carried out with the motor turned off. If the internal combustion engine is disabled, you can try to tighten it if necessary. But it should be borne in mind that slippage can be caused not only by poor tension, but also by wear of the profile. This problem can only be solved by replacing the strap.

A wet or wet shaft can lead to the impossibility of transferring rotation - the strap will slide along the surface without effort. The pulley must be dry for the battery to charge properly, so it will only be enough to dry it. It is rather difficult to determine slippage, in which case the strap may break.

The cause of the problem may be oxidation of the wires on the generating set at the joints. If you notice a white coating, then, as mentioned above, it can be removed with sandpaper. Visually inspect for wire breaks or burnt contacts. If the wire is burnt out, a characteristic smell may indicate this (the author of the video is VAZ 2101-2107 REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE).

Monitoring the rest of the charging system

To determine why the generator is overcharging or not charging the battery in principle, a multimeter may be required. Using the tester, you can measure the voltage on the batteries in two modes. With the engine off, the charge parameter should be in the range of 12.5-12.7 volts, with the engine running - 13.5-14 volts. If these indicators are less when the internal combustion engine is on, this may indicate problems in the operation of the diode bridge or brush assembly. By the way, the brushes can wear off, so they need to be changed periodically.

If the relay is the cause of the overcharge or lack of charge, it can be eliminated by replacing or re-soldering the diodes. If the diodes are re-soldered, it is necessary to select the devices that are closest to technical specifications... Otherwise, they may overheat.

Generator check

The reason the battery is not charging may be because the generator is not working. If the vehicle has a long mileage, it can lead to rotor wear or wear of rotating elements. As a result, this can lead to skewing of parts within the structure and lack of rotation. If the generator is jammed, then it will need to be replaced; in this case, repairs will not give results. In addition, the cause may be an open circuit inside the mechanism. Such a malfunction can only be identified with the help of an electrician.

In general, most of the problems associated with a lack of charge can be solved on your own. To do this, it is enough only to properly monitor the operation of the unit and devote time to diagnosing the battery and generator in the event of a corresponding indicator on the tidy.