The suspension of any car is always the first to take the hit from road irregularities. Depending on the design and settings, the suspension assemblies are designed to maximize the effective damping of shock loads from uneven road surfaces, as well as to ensure the vehicle's handling and stability on high speeds when cornering, as well as when there is a sharp change in the trajectory of movement ("snake", obstacle avoidance). And not only comfort, but also the safety of the driver and passengers depends on how efficient the suspension is. Each of the suspension elements fulfills its role. Trunnions and levers support the wheel in a given plane, ensuring unhindered rotation in two planes (when turning).

The principle of operation of stabilizers

The springs provide elasticity and return of the suspension elements to their original state, and the shock absorbers provide smooth running and damping of elastic vibrations of the body. However, even the flawless operation of the listed elements to ensure safe traffic not enough. If you hang the car on a lift or, in addition to levers, springs and shock absorbers on any modern passenger car, you can see another element - the stabilizer lateral stability... In suspension front axle the stabilizer is a curved arm that is attached with one shoulder to the wheel hub assembly, the other to the subframe. Mounts are not rigid, with the ability to move along the axis in one plane.

The principle of operation of the stabilizer is to redistribute the weight of the car body over the wheels when it rolls. For example, when cornering with a small radius or when there is a sharp change in trajectory. In the widely used MacPherson type front suspension, the anti-roll bar is a torsion-bar linkage. This arm is rigidly connected to the body or subframe. The forces from the suspension are transmitted to it by means of additional levers pivotally connected to the suspension. Such a simple device is able to prevent a strong roll of the car (and, accordingly, its rollover), while maintaining a straight trajectory.

In the rear axle suspension, the anti-roll bar is usually installed on vehicles with four-wheel drive. On many rear-wheel drive vehicles with a solid rear axle beam, a jet rod (Panhard rod) acts as a stabilizer. Some Japanese-made all-wheel drive models of previous years (Toyota Sprinter Carib, Land cruiser 80, etc.), along with the Panhard rod, are equipped with a stabilizer - a curved rod that passes through the entire beam of the rear axle and is connected through short levers with the load-bearing elements of the body or frame. Principle of operation rear stabilizer is similar to the principle of operation of the front one: reducing the overturning moment of the body when it rolls.

Signs of malfunctioning stabilizer bushings

To dampen noise and vibration transmitted from the suspension to the body, all connections are secured through elastic elements. The stabilizer assemblies, which are attached to the body through metal bushings pressed into rubber, are no exception. As a result of many factors: poor road surface conditions, the use of aggressive reagents, driving style, etc., the elastic elements of the stabilizer are destroyed. As a result, in the operation of the anti-roll bar, defects are observed, which manifest themselves in an increasing way over time.

The first harbingers of the need to replace the bushings are. Unlike knocking shock absorbers, it is not only when driving through road irregularities, but also when cornering with a small radius on a flat road surface. They are caused by the appearance of play in the joints of the stabilizer levers as a result of wear on the bushings. If this is not given importance, then subsequently the "symptoms" can grow.

The rattling knocks of the suspension will intensify and will accompany any movement of the suspension elements, as a result of further cracking and deformation of the rubber bushings. Along with this, the car will roll heavily in corners, the body will begin to sway along the transverse axis (with severe wear of the bushings on both wheels, or with a breakdown of the stabilizer beam). In some cases, it starts to "play" steering wheel... The car loses its sharpness of control, becomes roll. It is possible to "yaw" and move towards the faulty suspension element not only when braking, but also when trying to change lanes and trajectory. Other abnormal noise and vibration may occur in the suspension. Usually, most manufacturers recommend replacing the bushings after 30-40 thousand kilometers. But the surest signal to replace the stabilizer bushings is bouncing and knocking when cornering and body roll.

Suspension inspection

Before inspection, it is advisable to wash and clean all suspension elements, as well as their connections. By visual inspection of all elastic suspension elements, it is easy to find a damaged part. If the bushing is worn out or damaged, scuffs and cracks are visible on it, which are called "daisies" among professional auto mechanics for the characteristic patterns that form rubber elements when cracking. Loss of elasticity, "hardening" of rubber - is also a sure sign for the upcoming replacement. If for some reason (no lift, inspection hole or the nearest service station) it is not possible to inspect the stabilizer bushings, the degree of wear can be determined by the presence of knocks. It is enough to rest your hands on the upper part of the roof (B-pillar) and shake the car slightly from side to side. The presence of knocks, squeaks and their localization in the lower part of the suspension may serve as an indirect indication for replacing the elastic bushings.

For a more detailed inspection, it is necessary to hang the car on a lift, or drive it onto an overpass or observation pit. To determine the state of the anti-roll bar elements, it is necessary to swing the joints of all suspension arms using a crowbar or a mounting paddle. To do this, you need to rest the mounting blade in the place of attachment to the body, without damaging the protective coating and, with a slight wiggle, alternately press on all the stabilizer mounts to be checked. If during such manipulation in at least one joint there is a significant backlash, or vice versa - loss of elasticity - then half the battle has already been done! All that remains is to replace the worn out bushing.

Video - How to replace the stabilizer bushings with a VAZ

How to change stabilizer bushings

To replace rubber grommets front stabilizer with minimal loss of time and less effort, all work is best done not on a lift or on a jack, when all the wheels of the car are hung out, but on an inspection pit using a jack, supports or several jacks. Before replacing worn out stabilizer elements, for convenience, the car is first hung out on a lift or jack. After hanging and securely fastening, to access the parts of the stabilizer, remove the wheel (wheels on one axle), wheel arches and crankcase protection. After that, loosen the stabilizer attachments, including the brackets for attaching to the body or subframe.

If the threaded connections do not lend themselves due to oxides or strong contamination, in order to avoid tearing off the edges or shearing off the bolts, they must be treated with a special liquid that facilitates loosening. Before the procedure for loosening the fasteners, it is necessary to raise the lower lever with a jack or put a stop. When replacing the bushings in the suspension of both wheels (which is preferable), it is necessary to raise it with a jack or set stops on the axles of the front wheels.

This procedure is necessary to relieve the load on the stabilizer beam for easier bushing replacement. After all these conditions are met, you can remove the fasteners from the bracket and press out the bushing, followed by its replacement with a new one. On most car models, the stabilizer bushings are split. This is done for the convenience of their installation. Stabilizer repair kits are made of rubber or polyurethane.

Original repair kits always contain the required amount of grease, which must be lubricated on the inner surface of the bushings before replacing. All assemblies of the stabilizer and other elements of the vehicle are assembled in reverse order. For a longer service life of the bushings, it is necessary to periodically clean the stabilizer brackets from sand and road dirt.

Anti-roll bar bushings are an integral part of the vehicle's lateral stability when cornering. During turning, the centrifugal force tends to tilt the body in the opposite direction, and the torsion bar of the stabilizer, which is attached to the body and suspension with the help of bushings, resists this influence. Over time, the bushings wear out, deteriorate and become unusable, after which they must be replaced. We will show you how to determine if bushings need replacement and how to change them.

What are bushings for?

The anti-roll bar works on the principle of a torsion bar - a twisting beam, due to which a change in the height of the right wheel relative to the left leads to twisting of the steel bar from which the stabilizer is made. The task of the bushings is not only to secure the stabilizer to the body, but also to reduce the noise of the entire system. The rubber or polyurethane from which the hubs are made has good strength and elasticity, so that the change in the height of one of the axle wheels passes without knocking and squeaking. In addition, it is not possible to rigidly attach the stabilizer to the suspension and body, due to the fact that as it bends, the distance from the edge of the stabilizer to the suspension attachment point also changes. Very often, faulty bushings make various sounds - knocks, squeaks, especially during the passage of speed bumps or in sharp turns... This is due to the fact that the sleeve either loses its elasticity, becoming too rigid, or sand or dust is packed under it.

How to check bushings

Checking the bushings consists of two stages:

• visual inspection;
• mechanical impact.

To check the bushings, the car is rolled into a pit or overpass. It is undesirable to perform these works on the lift because the stabilizer has to be tugged strongly to check the bushings, and this can lead to the machine falling. Moreover, it is undesirable to use jacks, because by pulling the stabilizer a couple of times, you will overturn the car on yourself. The consequences of this development of events are not difficult to predict. Even a quick arrival of rescuers and emergency delivery to the hospital will not avoid serious harm to health. If the rescuers are late, you can die from crash syndrome, internal bleeding or pain shock.

The purpose of the visual inspection is to detect cracks and breaks in the bushings. If at least a small crack or rupture is found on any bushing, then the entire set must be replaced. For mechanical action, grasp the stabilizer near the bushing connecting it to the suspension, and begin to pull strongly in different directions. If there are squeaks or knocks, the bushings must be replaced. Do not be afraid to damage the bushings, body or stabilizer, because the loads while driving are much stronger than you can create, even tugging with all your might.

How to replace bushings front and back + Video

Unlike the check, which only needs to be done on a pit or overpass, the bushings can also be replaced on a lift or jack and two stands. For more information on how to properly raise a car on jacks, read the article (safety precautions for car repair and maintenance). To replace the bushings, you need the following tools:

• set of socket and open-end wrenches;
• metal brush;
• soap solution;
• graphite grease.

Preparation for replacing stabilizer bushings is the same on all machines. Hang up the front or rear of the machine, make sure the machine does not fall, then remove the wheels and engine guard (if installed). After that, use an iron brush to clean all the bolts and nuts securing the bushings to the body or suspension. Often, the bushings that attach the stabilizer to the suspension are made in the form of a part with two holes and silent blocks installed inside. It is much easier to replace such bushings as a whole, and not separate silent blocks. It will cost a little more, but you will not have to worry about pressing out old silent blocks and pressing new ones.

The only difficulty that arises in the process of replacing the bushings is the difficulty in unscrewing the bolts holding the bushings and clamps to the body. It is especially difficult to carry out this work on a machine with a subframe, therefore it is necessary to tune in to hard work in difficult conditions.

• First of all, disconnect the stabilizer from the suspension;
• Then unscrew the bolts securing it to the body and pull the stabilizer out;
• The old bushings are removed from the stabilizer, cleaned of dust and dirt and washed with soap. This procedure allows you to remove dust from the surface of the stabilizer, because dust is a strong abrasive that can quickly make a new bushing unusable;
• Now the new bushings are smeared from the inside with soapy water and put on the stabilizer;
• Then the stabilizer is inserted into place and screwed to the body and suspension.

It is advisable to lubricate the threads of bolts and nuts with graphite grease, this will keep them from sticking and facilitate the next replacement of the bushings. Then they put on the protection of the engine, wheels, tighten the nuts or bolts and remove the car from the stands or lift.

The main task of the suspension is to provide an elastic connection between the body and the wheels. Thus, the suspension softens the jolts and jumps that occur when the vehicle is driving on uneven roads or the absence of it. The smooth running of the car is directly dependent on the suspension.

The suspension serves as a kind of shock absorber, absorbing the energy that occurs when driving over irregularities, or falling into pits and potholes. However, it does not guarantee complete softness of movement and wears out a lot with frequent movement over bumps.

Pendants are divided into the following types:

• McPherson;
• double wishbone;
• multi-link;
• adaptive;
• "De Dion";
• back dependent;
• rear semi-dependent;
• pickups and SUVs;
• trucks.

McPherson suspension

The McPherson suspension is one of the oldest. It was developed by the talented engineer Earl MacPherson in 1960. Consists of anti-roll bar, arm and block. Changing the camber angle is a serious disadvantage of the suspension, but it is very popular due to its availability and reliability.

Double wishbone suspension

The double wishbone suspension is one of the most advanced designs. This is a suspension with two arms of different lengths (upper short and lower long). This design allows the vehicle to remain stable on the road and ensures the durability of the tires. Each wheel takes its own obstacle independently and does not transfer the load to the other wheels.

The multi-link suspension was developed not so long ago and is an even more advanced design. It is a set of many levers, silent blocks and hinges. All of these components are designed to absorb shocks and strong shocks while riding. The noise level from the wheels in the passenger compartment is also reduced. The suspension has separate lateral and longitudinal adjustments. The wheels are independent from each other. The design is ideal for all-wheel drive vehicles.

The cost of a multi-link suspension remained quite high for some time, but now even golf-class drivers can afford it.

Adaptive suspension

The adaptive suspension is quite curious in terms of design. For a long time it was primitive and weighed a lot, but now it has been greatly modernized. Due to this, it allows maximum body roll and wave swing at high speed and allows it to automatically adapt to any type of road surface. The adaptive suspension includes: adjustable anti-roll bars, active shock absorber struts, control unit undercarriage and electronic sensorsfixing road irregularities and other parameters.

"De Dion"

"De Dion" is named after its French creator. The main function of such a suspension is to reduce the load on rear axle car by separating the crankcase main gear... In this case, the crankcase rests on the body. This design allows you to make the suspension dependent or independent. But there are also disadvantages. When starting off abruptly, the body of the vehicle can press hard on the rear axle.

Rear dependent suspension

The rear dependent suspension is a real classic version, as it was used on many old VAZ cars. The suspension is based on cylindrical helical springs, which are elastic elements. The rear axle beam "hangs" on springs and is fixed to the body by means of four trailing arms. The reactive transverse rod acts as a roll absorber and has a positive effect on handling. But do not expect comfort and smoothness from this suspension, since the rear axle weighs a lot.

Semi-dependent rear suspension most often used in vehicles with four-wheel drive... Its main elements are two trailing arms attached in the center to the cross member. This suspension weighs a little and does not require any special maintenance or major repairs. But such a suspension cannot be installed on rear-wheel drive cars.

Other types of pendants

The suspension of trucks is most often dependent with transverse or longitudinal springs and hydraulic shock absorbers. This design makes it easier to manufacture and repair trucks.

Anti-roll bar: design and purpose

The anti-roll bar is an indispensable suspension component. It reduces body roll when cornering, increases wheel traction and evenly distributes the load on the frame. The shape resembles a metal bar with curved tips. It is attached on each side to the wheels of one of the axles, most often in the front (front stabilizer). Also, this structural element is attached to the car body.

Suspension diagnostics in the service center

The cost of such diagnostics varies from five hundred to a thousand rubles. Diagnostics allows you to identify suspension defects. Since this part of the car is most susceptible to wear and tear, diagnostics should be carried out promptly and in a timely manner.

You can determine that it is time to check the suspension for serviceability by an uncharacteristic knock and an increase in the braking distance of the car. Vehicle stability on the road also decreases over time. Diagnostics in service centers is carried out using high-precision equipment (backlash meter, side care tester) and provides maximum information content. After diagnosis, you will receive a special diagnostic card with the results of the work.

Special bushings are used to install the stabilizer. What is a bushing? These are elastic elements that provide the car with a smooth ride. These bushings also ensure that there is no noise or vibration from the stabilizer.

The sleeve is molded from rubber or polyurethane. The shape is identical for most models. Additionally equipped with grooves that protect against mechanical stress.

Signs of wear on stabilizer bushings

There are several signs:

• the formation of a backlash of the steering wheel during turns;
• shaking of the steering wheel;
• body roll with various knocks and clicks;
• vibration and extraneous noise;
• "Wobble" of the car to the side when driving straight;
• instability on the road.

Causes of malfunctioning bushings

Bushings most often fail due to poor road surface, the use of various reagents. Reagents used during icy conditions are no exception. Aggressive driving with hard braking and starting quickly leads to wear on most vehicle structures, including the stabilizer bushings.

A serious cause of wear can be low temperatures... The rubber of poor quality bushings will harden strongly and lose the necessary elasticity.

Finally, the biggest factor in wear is time. The stabilizer bush, like most elements of the car's structure, is a spare part with an expiration date. Sooner or later, any bushing is subject to wear and requires replacement.

Before replacing the stabilizer bushings, carefully inspect the suspension. The suspension must be cleaned of dirt. You can visually determine the wear on the bushing: it will have patterned cracks and various abrasions. The rubber of worn bushings loses its elasticity. A special inspection hole or lift will help you to inspect the bushings. If there are no such amenities, use the "folk" method. Put your hands on the top of the car roof and rock it. Knocks and squeaks at the bottom of the case will be a signal to replace the bushings.

Some car owners try to extend the life of the bushings by using special lubricants. This method is not recommended, as the lubrication "collects" various road debris and dust while driving. But if you still decide to use a lubricant, then purchase a quality product that does not destroy rubber. "Litol-24" and "MOLYKOTE CU-7439" will suit you. These are versatile products. They can even be used for lubrication brake calipers... Bushing grease is often available in a repair kit. In some cases, you may need a crowbar.

You will need one or more jacks to replace the bushings. It is advisable to carry out the replacement at the inspection pit, where special supports may also be needed. From the tools you will need wrenches, a screwdriver and a repair kit.

Step-by-step instructions for self-replacement

The process of replacing the bushings of the front and cross stabilizer are somewhat different.

To replace the front stabilizer bushings, you need to perform a number of steps described below:

1. Place the vehicle stationary above a pit or on a lift.
2. Loosen the front wheel bolts using the tools.
3. Remove the wheels.
4. Unscrew the nuts securing the struts to the stabilizer.
5. Disconnect the struts and stabilizer.
6. Loosen the rear bolts of the bracket that frames the hub, and then remove the front bolts.
7. Thoroughly remove dirt from the places for installing new bushings.
8. Lubricate inner sides bushings using silicone spray or soap solution. The special grease available in the repair kits may also be suitable for this.
9. Install the stabilizer bushings and reassemble all parts.

To replace the lateral stabilizer bushings, you also need to position the vehicle stationary over a pit or on a lift. After that, take a series of actions described below:

1. Place chocks under the rear wheels of the vehicle and lift the front wheels slightly.
2. Using a special open-end wrench, unscrew the nuts on the brackets in the places where they are attached to the car's lower suspension arm. Do this on both sides of the stabilizer bar. Washers-grovers under the nuts are removed manually.
3. Remove brackets and remove worn bushings. To do this, bend the stabilizer bar with a crowbar and hold it with the same crowbar when removing the bushing.
4. If there are central bushings, you will have to remove the stabilizer bar, which is attached to the two brackets. You can unscrew the nuts on them with an open-end wrench.
5. After removing the bar, clamp the bracket in a vice. Then you can remove the rod and then the bushing.
6. Replace the bushing by cleaning the installation sites from dirt and lubricating.
7. Then, as usual, reverse assembly is carried out.

Suspension of any modern car consists of elastic elements that perceive road irregularities. Further, the transverse beam redistributes the accepted forces and displaces the wheels. This whole system of levers and beams is called the car's anti-roll bar.

The purpose of the anti-roll bar is to maintain the stability of the vehicle when external forces change, such as when cornering. The lateral force arising from this maneuver is capable of overturning the car with significant body roll. By virtue of its design features, the anti-roll bar evens out the lateral force acting on the external and inner wheels regarding the turn. Depending on the type of drive, the stabilizer can be made in the form of a single curved beam or a system of levers.

As a rule, for dependent suspension a car is characterized by one curved element, for an independent one - a system of levers. To avoid noise caused by movement of the stabilizer elements and vibration damping, the stabilizer is attached to the body by means of elastic elements - bushings.

The stabilizer bush absorbs vibration from the suspension assemblies, thereby providing a smoother ride and reduced noise.

The bushing is an elastic part made of rubber by molding. The shape of the hub may differ depending on the structural elements of a particular vehicle, but in general the shape is similar. To increase durability and reliability, on some models the bushing is reinforced with lugs and grooves. The wear of the bushing is visible visually - cracks and abrasions appear on it, the bushing becomes hard and inelastic.

When is it time to replace the stabilizer bushings?

If the stabilizer bushings are malfunctioning, the following symptoms appear:

Steering wheel play when cornering;
Steering wheel beating;
Manifestation of characteristic clicks when the car body rolls;
"Yaw" of the car when driving;
Car drift when driving in one direction;
Vibration in suspension units;
The appearance of extraneous noise during the operation of the suspension

If these signs are found, we recommend that you sign up for the diagnosis and repair of the car's suspension.

In case of a malfunction of the anti-roll bar bushings, perform the following work:

Car wash;
Lifting the car on a lift;
Removing car wheels;
Removing the fender liner or other plastic protection;
Removing fasteners from stabilizer elements;
Removing the mount from the stabilizer bush bracket;
Replacing the sleeve with a new one.

On some car models, to facilitate the bushing replacement procedure, it is necessary to remove the engine crankcase protection. Assembly is carried out upside-down. For ease of installation of this elastic element, the sleeve is split.

The stabilizer bushings must be replaced after 30 thousand kilometers or when the above signs of malfunctions appear. To avoid "yaw" of the car when driving, both stabilizer bushings are replaced, regardless of the degree of wear of both. To increase the service life of the anti-roll bar elastic element, at each maintenance it is necessary to clean them of dirt, since its particles in the coupling between the bush and the stabilizer link are a source of additional wear.

You can determine whether it is necessary to replace the stabilizer bushings by knocks or squeaks that appear in the suspension when braking and driving over bumps. And given that sometimes there are more holes on our roads than asphalt pavement, the replacement process must be carried out regularly. The bushings themselves are not very expensive, their timely replacement will save them from rapid wear and tear, and the car owner from unnecessary expenses associated with their replacement.

The replacement process is quite simple and you can easily do it yourself, using the proposed instructions.

The stabilizer bushings are among the parts that are subject to the highest dynamic loads. They require regular replacement, depending on the service regulations adopted by different manufacturers and car models. The maximum mileage before replacing the rear and front hubs is typically 15,000 to 30,000 km. Taking into account the condition of our roads, it is recommended to replace them after wear.

Untimely replacement can lead to the formation of a roll in the vehicle's anti-roll bar, and this, in turn, increases the risk of a car overturning at speed. The complete set is subject to mandatory replacement, regardless of the difference in external signs of wear. The cost of such a repair service in a service station is often overstated, given the ease of replacement for most car models, therefore it is advisable to replace the front and rear bushings do it yourself.

Diagnostics

The knock of the stabilizers is a guaranteed sign that the bushings need to be replaced immediately. In addition to it, squeaks may appear, especially during a cold snap, when the rubber loses its elasticity.

It may be necessary to remove the crankcase guard to determine if replacement is necessary. To check the source of vibration, place your hands on the stabilizer post and directly on the mounting bracket. The partner should press hard on the hood of the car several times. If vibrations are felt on the brackets, which are transmitted to the rack, a new kit must be installed, even if no backlash was noticed when inspecting the seats on the stabilizer.

If the hole inside the sleeve has taken the shape of an ellipse, cracks are visible on the surface, and the material has hardened, immediate replacement is necessary. Continued use of the vehicle will significantly reduce the service life of the stabilizer struts.

Tool

To replace the front or rear bushings with your own hands, you will need:

• small ratchet with extension and cap head;
• open-end wrench, it should be thin and small;
• large ratchet, cardan adapter and union head;
• you may need an L-shaped extension cord.

Sequence of work

1. The car is securely fixed in the jacked state.
2. Wheels are unscrewed and removed. There is an engine guard in the right wheel arch. Its fasteners are unscrewed and the shield is removed.
3. Most of the fasteners under the bottom are pretty acidic, so to speed up the process of replacing the stabilizer bushings, they must be thoroughly treated with WD 40, which removes corrosion.
4. Using the open-end wrench, we fix the finger on the left stand. It is a little hidden from direct access, so the grooves must be found almost by touch.

1. We throw a box wrench, preferably a ratchet, onto the nut that secures the shock absorber. We unscrew both fasteners.
2. Having freed the stabilizer struts from the mountings, we disconnect them from the shock absorber strut.
3. Install a jack under the left rear part of the subframe. With its help, the subframe is fixed so that when removing the fasteners, it does not suddenly jump off the studs. A significant metal plate should be placed under the jack support head so as not to deform the subframe.

1. Smoothly lower the jack a few centimeters from the body. Thanks to this, the subframe also lowers slightly, opening access to the bushings.

1. A pipe is inserted into the resulting gap, and the subframe is additionally pushed down. A stopper is inserted into the resulting gap. A 27 head is suitable; when installing it between the body and the subframe washer, it is better to use pliers. This will save your hand from injury if the tube slips off the subframe washer.
2. We water the bracket mountings generously with WD-40. Unscrew the bolts gradually, not pressing too much.

1. Remove the released bracket from the bushing, and then remove the bushing itself.

1. Install the bushing from a new kit. The cut on the parts must be directed strictly backward. We position the new part exactly in the place of the old one.
2. We install a clamp over the sleeve. We lightly bait the fasteners with our fingers, and then tighten them with a wrench, alternately and evenly tightening all the bolts.
3. The stopper, which was used as the key head, is removed. The subframe is lifted by hand and screwed onto the body.
4. All these steps are performed in the same way with respect to the second clamp.
5. After the bushings are installed, both posts are screwed into place.

IMPORTANT! Before installation, all threaded parts of the fasteners are coated with graphite grease to avoid sticking.

When performing the specified work, you should be careful and pay attention to safety. In general, such work can be done by hand.

Naturally, the design of different car brands is significantly different, so the replacement instructions are rather general recommendations. For more detailed information, a series of videos on carrying out this type of repair for various car brands is presented.

Video on replacing stabilizer bushings Ford Explorer:

Video Chevrolet Aveo 3 - split sleeves, which are used in this model, make the repair process quick and easy.

Nissan X-Trail video:

Renault Logan Workflow Explained Video: