Scheme of installation and stamping of covers camshafts

I - front cover;
II - intake valve shaft;
III - shaft exhaust valves.

SEQUENCING

We remove the tips from the spark plugs along with the high-voltage wires.

Remove the ignition coils (see Checking and replacing the ignition coils). The coils can be left on the lid by disconnecting the low voltage wires from them.
Disconnect the throttle and air valve drive cables from the carburetor (see Removing the carburetor).
Remove the grille and the upper grille panel (see Removing the grille grille and Removing the upper grille panel).
We disconnect the wires from the oil temperature and pressure sensors (see Replacing the temperature gauge sensors, Replacing the oil pressure sensors) bend the wire fastening brackets ...

… And remove the wires from the engine.

Loosen the clamp and disconnect the small hose of the crankcase ventilation system.

Using a 12 key, unscrew the eight bolts securing the block head cover.

Remove the cover.

Turning the crankshaft with the head "at 36", we set it to the TDC position of the compression stroke of the first cylinder, (risk on the pulley crankshaft must align with the protrusion on the front cover of the cylinder block, ...

... and the marks on the camshaft sprockets must be turned in opposite directions and be in line with the upper edge of the cylinder head.

ATTENTION
Do not turn the crankshaft during further work.

For convenience, we remove the fuel pump (see Removal fuel pump engine ZMZ-4063) and, without disconnecting the hoses, take it to the side (you can leave the fuel pump on the lid).

Using a 12 key, unscrew the four bolts (the two lower ones are short).

Remove the front cover of the cylinder head ...

And a gasket.

Using a 6-key hexagon wrench, unscrew two screws ...

… And remove the upper damper of the upper chain.

With the same wrench, unscrew the two screws securing the middle damper.

We loosen the chain tension in the area near the middle damper by turning the exhaust valve shaft clockwise with a “17” key for the sprocket mounting bolt (or with a “30” key for a square on the shaft).

We remove the middle soot.

Holding the exhaust valve shaft with a "30" wrench, unscrew the sprocket mounting bolt with a "17" wrench.

Remove the sprocket from the exhaust valve shaft.

Similarly, we unscrew the bolt securing the intake valve shaft sprocket.

We remove the eccentric of the fuel pump drive ...

… And the intake sprocket.

Using the "12" head, unscrew the four bolts securing the front camshaft cover.

Removing the front cover ...

... and plastic inserts for limiting the axial movement of the camshafts.

Using the "12" head, sequentially, half a turn, loosen the tightening of the camshaft cap bolts until the valve springs stop pressing the shafts.

Finally, unscrew the bolts and remove the covers.

We remove the camshaft.

Remove the second camshaft in the same way.
Before installing the camshafts, lubricate engine oil their bearing journals, cams, as well as beds in the head and covers.

Install the exhaust valve shaft with the pin to the right (looking from the front), and the intake valve shaft with the pin up. In this case, the shafts are in a stable position (for clarity, the radiator hose has been removed).

The intake and exhaust camshafts are interchangeable, but ...

ATTENTION
Pay attention to the correct position of the pins in the holes in the camshaft flanges.

We install each cover in its place, according to the serial number stamped on it.

We orient the covers so that the number embossed on them faces the outside of the head.

We tighten the cover fastening bolts with a torque of 1.9-2.3 kgf.m, after which ...

… We turn the intake valve shaft so that its pin is opposite the upper edge of the block head.

We install sprockets with a chain on the shafts, starting from the exhaust camshaft.

With a tensioned branch of the chain on the side of the middle damper, the mark on the sprocket should be located opposite the upper edge of the block head.

We put the middle damper in place and put the second asterisk.
We carry out further assembly in the reverse order of disassembly.

ATTENTION
After installing the hydraulic tensioner ...

We check the coincidence of all marks on the crankshaft pulley and sprockets. Otherwise, remove the incorrectly installed sprocket and, by moving it to one section of the chain, reinstall it.

Tightening the cylinder head bolts is an important part renovation worksthat cannot be neglected. The question should be given attention, especially when it comes to the GAZ 53 car. We suggest you find out what moment cylinder head tightening GAZ 53 and what is the order of tightening the screws during repair.

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When should you tighten?

Not every car enthusiast realizes the importance of this nuance. And not all drivers understand that the order of tightening the pins must be followed. This moment is important, and it is not recommended to neglect it. If you own a GAZ 53 and have not tightened the cylinder head screws correctly, this may cause other malfunctions. Accordingly, repairing the engine will entail a lot of money.

Truck GAZ 53

Ten years ago, the procedure in a vehicle was carried out by specialists in car maintenance. The legislation was amended, according to which this procedure was canceled. Now tighten the screws - headache owners of cars. In what cases should it be performed?

• If you notice that a consumable is leaking from under the cylinder head, namely engine oil. In some cases, this can be the result of mechanical damage to the head gasket. Or the gasket could simply wear out. But sometimes oil leakage occurs as a result of loosening the cylinder head screws.
• If you disassemble the engine of your GAZ 53. When assembling and installing the cylinder head, the torque and order of tightening the screws must be observed in any case. If this is not done, then during long-term operation of the cylinder head, its deformation may occur.

If you see that the bolts can be tightened, then this should be done. The cylinder head screws can be loosened arbitrarily during operation vehicle... Therefore, it is necessary to diagnose the tension every 3 thousand kilometers.

Process and order

Our resource advises novice motorists to think before tightening the cylinder head pins with their own hands. In practice, novice motorists, having no experience, begin the procedure without realizing how sad it can turn out. Of course, in case of wrong actions. Consider this procedure for a GAZ 53 car. Remember that each individual engine has its own nuances in operation.

Required tools

If you have already installed the cylinder head in place, then a whole set of tools is not needed. For tightening, you need to prepare one tool - a torque wrench. It is needed to perform work, since it is possible to correctly determine the moment only with the help of it. At home, few people have such a tool, because it has a certain specificity of work. You can try to ask the masters at the service station, but not for free. If you decide to purchase such a key for yourself, please note that its cost is at least 1,200 rubles or 350 hryvnia.

One more tip. Sometimes "auto experts" who do not understand much advise not to use a torque wrench, but to use a regular wrench. They motivate this by the fact that the screws need to be tightened to the maximum, and buying a torque tool is a waste of money. We can say that they do not understand the seriousness of the situation. Therefore, if you want the repair process to go right, stock up on a torque wrench.

Step by step instructions

If you are the owner of GAZ 53, we recommend using the service manual for the car. Perhaps the engine of your GAZ 53 has certain nuances in its work or its own specifics. The instruction below is relevant for all GAZ 53. If you are ready to carry out these works, you can proceed. If you changed the gasket or made repairs to the motor, then reassemble it and install a new seal.

1. Inspect the cylinder head bolts. They should be in perfect condition. If the screws show mechanical damage or traces of deformation, they must be replaced. Reuse of bolts is not recommended, but if their condition is perfect or close to it, then the operation of the pins is allowed. Pay attention to the thread - it must be clean. So are the pin sockets. If you notice dirt or metal shavings on the elements, they must be cleaned with a wire brush.
2. The pins should be lubricated before tightening, engine fluid is suitable for this.
3. Insert the screws into the holes and tighten them according to the order in the diagram. Using a torque wrench, all pins must be tightened with a torque of 7.3 - 7.8 kgm. Observe order when doing this. If the temperature in the room where you are carrying out the repair is minus (below -5 degrees), then the cylinder head tension moment should be 7.3 kgm. If it is 20 degrees, then the tightening torque should be at the lower limit.

After that, the repair process of tightening the cylinder head screws can be considered complete. Recall that during such repairs you need to be careful, non-observance of the nuances will lead to a negative result. Overtightening the pins can cause micro cracks in the motor housing. As you might guess, this will result in an expensive renovation. You will need to weld cracks or change the cylinder head itself.

Remember that the pins must be good quality... The absence of cracks, metal dust, deformation is a prerequisite, which is important to adhere to during such work. If you cannot answer to yourself exactly whether you can do everything right, do not take the broach.

Video "Tightening the cylinder head pins"

Install the connecting rod cover. The numbers stamped on the connecting rod cover and the lower connecting rod head must match and be on the same side.
In the same way, we install the remaining pistons into the cylinder block. Tighten the connecting rod cap bolt nuts to a torque of 68-75 Nm.
We turn the crankshaft by the flywheel. The movement should be smooth, but the resistance to rotation will increase (compared to the rotation of the crankshaft without connecting rods).
We install the oil pump with a new gasket ...

And we wrap the bolts of its fastening (tightening torque 25-40 Nm).
We tighten the bolt of the oil pump bracket to a torque of 7-10 Nm.

Turning the crankshaft, set the mark of the crankshaft sprocket opposite the alignment mark of the cylinder block.
Assembling the oil pump drive
(see "Disassembling the oil pump drive"), having coated the drive gears, intermediate shaft bushings and the shaft itself with engine oil. Installing the lower chain damper Before installing, dip both chains in engine oil.

ATTENTION
When installing the sprocket of the lower chain tensioner, make sure that the marks on the sprockets of the crankshaft and countershaft coincide with the corresponding marks on the cylinder block (see "Dismantling the timing mechanism").

We change the seal in the front cover of the cylinder block (see "Replacing the front crankshaft oil seal") and install the cover with a new gasket and generator bracket.
Install the lower chain hydraulic tensioner (see "Removing and installing hydraulic tensioners").
We tighten and tie the upper timing chain to the generator bracket. We apply silicone sealant to the cylinder block mating plane (for attaching the oil pan), to the joints of the front and rear covers with the cylinder block.
Install the oil pan (tightening torque of the oil pan mounting bolts 12-18 Nm, and the nuts 11-16 Nm).
Install the clutch crankcase amplifier. Put a pulley on the toe of the crankshaft and tighten the ratchet bolt to a torque of 104-128 Nm.
Install the cylinder head (see "Removing and repairing the cylinder head").
Install discs and clutch housing (see "Replacing the driven and driving discs").
Install the starter (see "Removing the starter").
We install the coolant pump (see "Replacing the coolant pump"), the generator (see "Removing the generator"), tension roller with a tensioner (see "Replacing the tension roller of the accessory drive belt"). *
The further assembly of the ZMZ 406 engine is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.

The need to repair engines ZMZ-4061, -4063 occurs after a run of 200-250 thousand km, depending on the operating conditions. By this mileage, the gaps reach values \u200b\u200bthat cause a drop in power, a decrease in oil pressure in the oil line, a sharp increase in oil consumption (over 0.25 l / 100 km), excessive engine smoke, increased consumption fuel, as well as increased knocking.

The values \u200b\u200bof the gaps in the mates of the main parts due to wear should not exceed the values \u200b\u200bindicated for the engines ZMZ-4025, -4026.

Engine performance can be restored either by replacing worn parts with new standard sizes, or by restoring worn parts and using new oversized parts associated with them.

For this purpose, the release of pistons, piston rings, liners for connecting rod and main bearings of the crankshaft, guide bushings for intake and exhaust valves and a number of other parts of oversized size is provided.

Removing the engine from the vehicle

To remove the engine, the car must be placed on a viewing ditch or overpass with general and portable lighting. Workplace must be equipped with a hoist or other lifting device with a lifting capacity of at least 300 kg.

Carry out work on removing the engine in the following order:

• open the hood, unscrew the four bolts attaching it to the hinges and remove the hood;
• drain the coolant from the engine cooling system by unscrewing the plug on the radiator and opening the taps on the cylinder block and heater. In this case, the cork expansion tank must be removed;
• drain oil from the crankcase and gearbox by unscrewing the plugs drain holes... After draining the oil, replace the plugs and tighten them tightly;
• remove the battery.

Work carried out on the left side of the vehicle:

• disconnect the connectors and terminals of the wires from the ignition coils and sensors: oil pressure gauge, warning light emergency oil pressure, coolant overheat warning lamp, coolant temperature gauge, engine temperature condition;
• disconnect the hoses from the radiator, coolant pump and thermostat cover and remove them;
• disconnect the ground wire;
• unscrew the bolt securing the left cushion to the bracket on the engine.

Work carried out on the right side of the vehicle:

• disconnect the wires from the generator and starter;
• disconnect the wire connectors from the knock and crankshaft position sensors (timing sensor);
• disconnect the air intake hose from air filter and the air intake pipe and remove the hose;
• disconnect the crankcase ventilation hoses from the valve cover, air filter and carburetor tube connections, remove them;
• remove the cover and filter element of the air filter;
• bend the mustache of the lock washers and unscrew the nuts securing the air filter housing, carefully remove the nuts and lock washers, excluding them from getting into the engine;
• remove the air filter housing with flange and gaskets, close the carburetor with a clean cloth;
• disconnect the drive cable from the carburetor throttle valves and draft of the air damper;
• disconnect the tip of the throttle valve drive cable from the bracket on the engine;
• disconnect the fuel bypass hose from the carburetor, hoses to the solenoid valve of the forced economizer idle move;
• disconnect two heater hoses from the engine;
• disconnect the hoses for the brake booster and the absolute pressure sensor from the intake pipe;
• disconnect the supply hose from the fine fuel filter;
• unscrew the bolt securing the right mount to the bracket on the engine.

Work carried out in front of the car:

remove the radiator grille by loosening the mounting bolts;

disconnect the hood lock cable;

unscrew the bolts, remove the upper panel of the radiator grill;

- after unscrewing the bolts, remove the lower mounting plate for the radiator grille;

disconnect the hoses from the expansion tank to the thermostat housing and the distribution pipe;

unscrew the radiator mounting bolts and remove it;

hook the engine onto the load eyes and tighten the hoist chain.

Work carried out inside the car body:

• pull the outer rubber floor seal to the gear lever handle;
• remove the rubber protective seal from the cap of the neck of the gear lever housing;
• unscrew the cap from the neck of the lever body and pull the lever up from the neck;
• close the hole in the neck with a clean napkin.

Dismantling the engine

The engine must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt before disassembly. It is recommended to disassemble and assemble the engine on a stand that allows the engine to be installed in positions that provide free access to all parts during disassembly and assembly.

Disassembly and assembly of motors must be done with tools of the appropriate size (wrenches, pullers, accessories), the working surface of which must be in good condition.

With an individual repair method, parts suitable for further work must be installed in their original places. To do this, parts such as pistons, piston pins, piston rings, connecting rods, bushings, valves, hydraulic pushers, etc. , or stack them on racks with numbered compartments, in the order corresponding to their location on the engine.

With an impersonal method of repairing engines, it must be remembered that the connecting rod caps with connecting rods, the main bearing caps with the cylinder block, the camshaft bearing caps with the cylinder head are processed assembled, and therefore cannot be dismantled.

The crankshaft, flywheel and clutch are balanced separately at the factory, so they are interchangeable. The clutch housing is machined separately from the cylinder block and is also interchangeable.

In hydraulic tensioners, dismantling of the housing with a plunger is not allowed.

• remove the clutch release plug;
• remove the gearbox from the engine;
• remove the fan;
• remove the clutch housing and starter;
• install the engine on a disassembly stand;
• loosen the bolts of the coolant pump pulley;
• loosen the tension roller mounting bolt;
• loosen the belt tension by unscrewing the tension roller movement bolt, remove the belt;
• unscrew the bolts of the coolant pump pulley, remove the pulley, pulley reflector;
• remove the wires with lugs from the spark plugs, unscrew the candles;
• disconnect the high voltage wires from the connectors of the ignition coils, remove the wires complete with lugs;
• unscrew the union nuts from the fittings of the intake pipe and exhaust manifold, remove the recirculation pipe;
• unscrew the valve cover fastening bolts, remove the valve cover assembly with ignition coils, bolts, brackets and washers;
• remove the fuel line from the fuel pump to the fuel fine filter;
• remove the fuel pump;
• remove the front cylinder head cover;
• remove the upper and middle chain dampers;
• remove the cover with the gasket for the upper hydraulic chain tensioner;
• remove the hydraulic tensioner;
• unscrew the bolt securing the intake camshaft sprocket, remove the eccentric and sprocket;
• take off drive chain from camshaft sprockets;
• remove the sprocket from the exhaust camshaft;
• unscrew the bolts securing the camshaft covers, remove the covers, thrust flanges;
• take off camshafts;
• remove the hydraulic pushers with a suction cup or magnet, arrange them in the order of the cylinder numbering;
• loosen the screws of the hose clamps for heating the intake tract, remove the hoses from the fittings;
• loosen the clamping bolt of the generator upper bracket;
• unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the generator to the upper bracket, remove the bolt, bushing;
• unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the generator to the lower bracket, remove the generator;
• remove the hoses of the recirculation system from the fittings of the carburetor, thermal vacuum switch, recirculation valve;
• loosen the screw of the fuel line pipe clamp on the carburetor union, remove the hose from the union;
• unscrew the carburetor mounting nuts, remove the washers, carburetor, gaskets, spacer;
• unscrew the nuts securing the recirculation valve, remove the washers, valve, gasket;
• unscrew the bolt securing the fine fuel filter, remove the filter assembly with fuel pipes;
• unscrew the thermal vacuum switch;
• unscrew the nuts securing the intake pipe, remove the washers of the intake pipe, the gasket;
• unscrew the nuts securing the exhaust manifold, remove the washers, exhaust manifold, gaskets;
• loosen the clamps of the thermostat housing hose;
• unscrew the screws securing the thermostat housing, remove the housing, the gasket;
• unscrew the fitting of the oil pressure sensors;
• unscrew the bolts of the cylinder head, remove the bolts with washers;
• remove the cylinder head;



Figure 4.51. Removing the valve springs

• using the tool (see figure 4.51), dismantle the valve springs. In order for the valve spring plate to come off the crackers, after compressing the springs, lightly hit the device plate with the hammer handle;
• remove the valves, arrange them in the order of the cylinder numbering;
• remove the slinger caps from the guide bushings with a puller. It is recommended to remove the valves when repairing the cylinder head;
• turn the engine with the oil sump up;
• unscrew the bolts securing the clutch crankcase amplifier to the block, remove the washers, amplifier;
• unscrew the bolts and nuts securing the oil sump, remove washers, oil sump, gasket;
• unscrew the bolt securing the oil pump holder on the third main bearing cap;
• unscrew the bolts of the oil pump, remove the oil pump, gasket, hexagonal shaft of the oil pump drive;
• unscrew the crankshaft pinch bolt, remove the bolt, spring washer;
• remove the crankshaft pulley using the tool;
• unscrew the bolts securing the coolant pump to the chain cover, remove the bolts with washers, coolant pump, gasket;
• unscrew the tension roller mounting bolt, remove the tension roller;
• remove the cover and gasket of the first stage hydraulic tensioner, remove the hydraulic tensioner;
• unscrew the synchronization sensor mounting bolt, remove the sensor;
• unscrew the screws securing the chain cover, remove the cover, lower generator bracket;
• remove the chain of the second stage of the camshaft drive from the driving sprocket of the intermediate shaft;
• loosen the bolts of the intermediate shaft sprockets, remove the sprockets, the chain;
• unscrew the bolts securing the intermediate shaft flange, remove the bolts with washers, flange;
• unscrew the bolts securing the cover of the oil pump drive, remove the cover, the gasket;
• unscrew the nut of the drive gear of the oil pump drive, remove the gear assembly with the nut;
• remove the intermediate shaft;
• press out the key from the intermediate shaft;
• using a puller, remove the bushing and sprocket from the crankshaft;
• unscrew the bolt securing the shoe of the chain tensioner of the first stage of the camshaft drive, remove the shoe;
• unscrew the bolt securing the shoe of the chain tensioner of the second stage of the camshaft drive, remove the shoe;
• unscrew the extension of the shoe bolt, remove the extension;
• unscrew the bolts securing the lower chain damper, remove the damper;
• unscrew the nuts securing the covers of the first and fourth connecting rods, remove the connecting rod caps with inserts, remove the liners from the beds of the connecting rods;
• remove the pistons with connecting rods assembled from the first and fourth cylinders;
• install the crankshaft so that the second and third crankpins are in top position, unscrew the nuts securing the covers of the second and third connecting rods, remove the connecting rod covers with inserts, remove the liners from the beds of the connecting rods;
• remove the pistons with connecting rods from the second and third cylinders;
• insert a slotted mandrel into the splines of the driven disk;
• unscrew in turn, in several steps, the clutch pressure plate mounting bolts, remove the disc;
• remove the clutch disc with a splined mandrel;
• loosen the flywheel mounting bolts, remove the flywheel from the pin;
• unscrew the bolts securing the back cover, remove the back cover assembly with a rubber cuff;
• unscrew the bolts securing the main bearing caps, remove the bolts;
• remove the main bearing caps with a puller, the crankshaft thrust bearing half washers are upper;
• remove the crankshaft, lower half washers of the crankshaft thrust bearing;
• remove the main bearing shells from the cylinder block beds and from the main bearing caps;
• install the main bearing caps in the block according to the numbering;
• fasten the main bearing caps with bolts;
• unscrew the knock sensor mounting nut, remove the washer, sensor;
• turn away oil filter;
• unscrew the drain cock from the cylinder block;
• remove the connecting rod bearings from the connecting rods;
• install the connecting rod caps on the mounting bolts, screw on the nuts;



Figure 4.52. Removing the piston rings from the piston

• remove the compression oil scraper rings from the pistons using a puller (see Figure 4.52);
• remove the retaining rings;



Figure 4.53. Pressing out the piston pin from the piston with a puller: 1 - piston; 2 - piston pin; 3 - mandrel; 4 - puller screw

• press the piston pins out of the pistons using a tool and a mandrel (see Figure 4.53).

Repair of parts, assemblies, units and engine systems

Cylinder block, pistons, connecting rods, intermediate shaft

A cylinder block with holes in the cylinder walls, water jacket and crankcase, or with cracks in the upper plane and ribs supporting the main bearings must be replaced.

As a result of wear, the cylinders of the block acquire the shape of an irregular cone along the length, and oval around the circumference. The wear reaches the greatest value in the upper part of the cylinders in the area of \u200b\u200bthe upper compression ring, when the piston is at TDC; the smallest - in the lower part, when the piston is in BDC.

When repairing cylinders, two repair sizes are provided: 1st and 2nd. Pistons and piston rings are produced with the same overhaul dimensions.

All cylinders of the block should, as a rule, be machined to the same oversize with deviations in mm, set for cylinders of nominal size, except for cases when it is required to "remove" shallow scratches on the cylinder bore (within the cylinder diameter increase by 0.10 mm) - in this case, only defective cylinders can be corrected.

If there is a repair limited quantity pistons, it is recommended to calculate the deviations of the diameter for each cylinder (based on the actual size of the diameter of the piston skirt intended for operation in this cylinder with a clearance of 0.036-0.060 mm) and bore the cylinders under these dimensions.

Deviations in the shape of the cylinders must be located in the tolerance field of the dimensional group for the cylinder diameter.

Figure 4.120. Intermediate shaft: 1 - bolt; 2 - locking plate; 3 - leading sprocket; 4 - driven sprocket; 5 - front shaft sleeve; 6 - intermediate shaft; 7 - intermediate shaft pipe; 8 - driven gear wheel of the oil pump drive; 9 - nut; 10 - drive gear of the oil pump drive; eleven - rear hub shaft; 12 - cylinder block; 13 - intermediate shaft flange; 14 - pin

Repair of the intermediate shaft support bushings consists in replacing them with repair ones (of increased thickness), followed by boring to the nominal or repair size with the tolerance set for the nominal supports, depending on the degree of wear of the shaft support journals. Before repairing the supports, it is necessary to remove pipe 7 (see figure 4.120). When installing the repair sleeves, ensure that the holes in the oil passages match. Bore the intermediate shaft bearings in one setup to ensure alignment.

The intermediate shaft journals are ground to a repair size with a tolerance set for the journals of the nominal size, in case of wear exceeding the maximum allowable.

Damage to threaded holes in the form of nicks or thread stripping of less than two threads is restored with a tap to the nominal size.

Threaded holes that have worn or broken threads of more than two threads are restored by cutting an oversized thread, setting threaded screw drivers and then cutting a thread of a nominal size into them or installing threaded spiral inserts. The latter method is the most efficient and less time consuming.

The controlled parameters during the repair of the cylinder block, pistons, connecting rods and intermediate shaft are given in table. 4.12.

Table 4.12. Controlled parameters during the repair of the cylinder block, pistons, connecting rods and intermediate shaft

Crankshaft

If cracks of any nature are present, the crankshaft must be replaced.

To remove wear products in the cavities of the connecting rod journals and in the oil channels of the crankshaft, it is necessary to unscrew the plugs of the journals, flush them (with a solution of caustic soda heated to 80 ° C) and clean the cavities and channels with a metal brush. After cleaning, they must be rinsed with kerosene, blown and dried with compressed air, after which the plugs must be tightened with a torque of 38–42 Nm (3.8–4.2 kgf · m).

If the thread is damaged in holes up to two threads, it is restored with a tap to the nominal size. If two or more threads are torn off, then the repair is made as follows:

The threads in the holes for the flywheel mounting bolts - by installing threaded spiral inserts;

Threads in the ratchet hole - by cutting repair threads;

Threads in holes for plugs - by cutting repair threads.

The connecting rod and main journals, worn out within the repair size, are ground to the nearest repair size (1st, 2nd or 3rd) with the tolerance set for the journals of the nominal size (all journals are ground to the same repair size). The sharp edges of the chamfers of the oil channels are dulled with a conical abrasive tool, and then the necks are polished.

The controlled parameters during the repair of the crankshaft are given in table. 4.13

Table 4.13. Controlled parameters during crankshaft repair

Cylinder head, valve train and camshafts

If there are holes, burnout and cracks on the walls of the combustion chambers and the destruction of the bridges between the valve seat seats, the cylinder head must be replaced with a new one.

The repair of the threaded holes is the same as for the threaded holes of the cylinder block.

Figure 4.133. Removing the valve springs

To check the tightness of the valves, it is necessary to pour kerosene alternately into the inlet and outlet channels of the cylinder head. The flow of kerosene from under the valve discs indicates leaks. Leaking valves are removed from the cylinder head using a valve spring compression tool (Figure 4.133).

When disassembling, place the valves in the order corresponding to their location in the head, for their subsequent installation in their original places.

Before lapping the valve, check for warpage of the valve disc and burnout of the valve and seat. In the presence of these defects, it is impossible to restore the valve tightness by lapping, and the seat must first be bored and the damaged valve replaced with a new one. If the clearance between the valve stem and the guide sleeve exceeds 0.20 mm, then the valve and sleeve must be replaced with new ones.

For spare parts, valves are produced in nominal size, and guide bushings - with an allowance for machining along the inner diameter after pressing into the head and with an outer diameter of three overhaul sizes: the first - with an increase of 0.02 mm from the nominal, the second - with an increase of 0, 2 mm from the nominal, the third - with an increase of 0.02 mm from the second repair size (Table 4.14).

Table 4.14. Controlled parameters when repairing the cylinder head of the valve train and camshafts

Figure 4.134. Pressing out the valve guides

The worn out guide sleeve is pressed out using a mandrel (Figure 4.134).

Before pressing out the guide bushings, it is necessary to determine the maintainability of the cylinder head.

The cylinder head is repairable if, after machining the valve seat, the distance from the camshaft axis to the end of the valve stem, pressed against the working chamfer of the seat, is at least 35.5 mm. If this condition is not met, the cylinder head cannot be repaired. The cylinder head also cannot be repaired if the surface adjacent to the block has more than 0.1 mm non-flatness.

When installing new guide bushings, they must be cooled in carbon dioxide ("dry ice") to a temperature of minus 40-45 ° C, and the cylinder head must be heated to a temperature of plus 160—175 ° C. During assembly, the bushings must be inserted into the head hole freely or with easy effort.

Bushings of the first repair size are installed in the head without additional processing of holes in the head, bushings of the second and third repair sizes - with preliminary boring (reaming) of holes to a diameter of 14.2 mm.

Figure 4.135. Valve seat profiles: A - intake; B - graduation; b - chamfer width

After installing and reaming the bushings, process the chamfers of the seats (by grinding or boring), centering the tool on the hole in the bushing. When machining, the dimensions indicated in Figure 4.135 should be observed, and the concentricity of the chamfer on the valve seat with the hole in the sleeve should be ensured (the runout of the working chamfer of the seat relative to the sleeve hole is allowed no more than 0.05 mm).

After machining the chamfers, it is necessary to reduce their width by machining the inner surface of the seats at an angle of 30 ° to size "b", equal to (2 ± 0.4) mm for the inlet valve seats, (2 ± 0.3) mm for the exhaust valve seats.

Then grind the valves using a lapping paste made up of one part of M-20 micropowder and two parts of I-20A oil.

Before reassembling the cylinder head, it is necessary to clean the combustion chambers and inlet and outlet channels from carbon deposits and deposits, having previously moistened the carbon deposits with kerosene, this prevents carbon deposits from spraying when removing them and prevents the ingress of poisonous dust during breathing. Wipe clean and blow out with compressed air.

On the installed valve guides, it is necessary to simultaneously install the spring washers using a mandrel and press on the valve stem seals. Lubricate the valve stems with oil used for the engine, insert the valves into the bushings according to the order of their installation and assemble them with springs using a tool (see Figure 4.51). Make sure the crackers fit into the valve ring grooves. Pour kerosene into the inlet and outlet channels and make sure the valves are tight.

To determine the clearance in the camshaft bearings, all bearing caps must be installed in accordance with their numbers.

Before installing the covers "1", "2", "3", "4", "5", "6", "7" and "8" of the cylinder head beds, they must be lubricated with the oil used for the engine. Centering of these covers is carried out using a cylindrical mandrel with a diameter of 35-0.02 mm, laid in bed. After tightening the covers to a torque of 19-23 N · m (1.9-2.3 kgf · m), remove the mandrel towards the rear end of the cylinder head (in this case, the rear cover of the cylinder head must be removed). If the clearance in one of the bearings is more than 0.15 mm, then either the cylinder head or the camshaft must be replaced.

The gap in the hole for the hydraulic pusher and the hydraulic pusher should not exceed 0.15 mm. If the clearance is larger, either the hydraulic pusher or the cylinder head must be replaced.

The surfaces of the bearing journals and cams must be free from scoring and deep cavities and not have wear exceeding the maximum permissible. After checking the shafts, it is necessary to clean and polish the surfaces of the journals and cams.

The controlled parameters during the repair of cylinder heads, valve train and camshafts are given in table. 4.14.

Hydraulic tensioner

When repairing the engine, hydraulic tensioners must be disassembled, washed their parts and assembled ("charged").

The hydraulic tensioner is disassembled in the following order:

Figure 4.119. Hydraulic tensioner assembly: 1 - valve assembly; 2 - locking ring; 3 - plunger; 4 - case; 5 - spring; 6 - retaining ring

- unscrew the valve body 1 (see figure 4.119) from the body 4 of the hydraulic tensioner;

- remove spring 5 and plunger 3 from housing 4.

The hydraulic tensioner is assembled in the following order:

Figure 4.136. Tool for assembling hydraulic tensioner

- install the body 4 of the hydraulic tensioner on a vertically fixed mandrel (Figure 4.136);

- insert plunger 3 into the body of the hydraulic tensioner (see Figure 4.119) until the stop ring 6 on the plunger stops in the mandrel, having previously lubricated the steam with oil used for the engine;

- insert spring 5 into the plunger. Install the valve body 1 of the hydraulic tensioner on the spring and, compressing the spring, screw it into the body, while the retaining ring on the plunger must be in the body groove and prevent the plunger from moving in the body.

Warnings

1. On the assembled hydraulic tensioner, pressing on the plunger nose protruding from the body is not allowed to prevent the plunger from disengaging with the body under the action of a compressed spring.

2. It is not allowed to clamp the body of the hydraulic tensioner during assembly in order to avoid violation of the geometry of the plunger pair.

Disassembly and assembly of the pump are similar to the specified operations for engines ZMZ-4025, -4026.

Figure 4.80. Pressing the coolant pump pulley hub onto the shaft

The only difference is that when pressing onto the bearing roller (see Figure 4.80), the pump pulley hubs must maintain the size (106 ± 0.2) mm.

In case of malfunctions in the lubrication system caused by malfunctions in the oil pump, it must be disassembled.

To disassemble, do the following:

- bend the mustache of the mesh frame, remove the frame and mesh;

Figure 4.124. Oil pump: 1 - drive gear; 2 - case; 3 - roller; 4 - axis; 5 - driven gear; 6 - partition; 7 - inlet with mesh

- unscrew the four bolts, remove the inlet 7 (see Figure 4.124) and the partition 6;

- remove the driven gear 5 and the roller 3 with the driving gear 7 from the housing;

Figure 4.125. Reducing valve: 1 - plunger; 2 - spring; 3 - washer; 4 - cotter pin

- remove the washer 3 (see Figure 4.125) the spring 2 and the plunger 7 of the pressure reducing valve from the inlet pipe, after removing the cotter pin 4;

- rinse the parts and blow with compressed air.

To check the operation of the pressure reducing valve, it is necessary to make sure that its plunger moves freely in its bore, without jamming, and that the spring is in good condition.

The free length of the spring must be 50 mm. The force on the spring when compressed by 10 mm should be 46 N (4.6 kgf). If the force is weakened, the spring must be replaced.

If on the plane of the baffle of the oil pump there is a depletion from the gears, then it is necessary to grind it until the traces of depletion are removed "as clean". If the housing is heavily worn, the pump must be replaced with a new one.

To assemble the pump, you must do the following:

Install the plunger, spring and washer of the pressure reducing valve into the hole in the inlet pipe and secure with a cotter pin, having previously lubricated the plunger with oil used for the engine;

Install the roller assembly with the drive gear into the oil pump housing and check the ease of its rotation;

- install the driven gear in the housing and check the ease of rotation of both gears;

- install the partition, the inlet pipe and screw them to the body with four bolts and washers to a torque of 14-18 N · m (1.4-1.8 kgf · m);

- install the mesh, mesh frame and roll up the frame mustache on the edges of the oil pump receiver;

- check the pressure developed by the pump. The pressure is checked at a certain outlet resistance. To do this, a nozzle with a diameter of 1.5 mm and a length of 5 mm is attached to the pump outlet in a special installation. The pump with a suction pipe and a mesh must be in a tank filled with a mixture of 90% kerosene and 10% M8V or M-53/10-G1 oil. The level of the mixture in the tank should be 20-30 mm below the plane of the joint between the body and the baffle of the oil pump. The pump is driven by an electric motor. At a pump shaft speed of 250 min-1, the pressure developed by the pump should be at least 120 kPa (1.2 kgf / cm2), and at 750 min-1 - from 400 to 500 kPa (from 4 to 5 kgf / cm2) ...

Supply system

Repair of the power system is similar to the repair of engines ZMZ-4025, ZMZ-4026, described above in this manual.

Assembling the engine

The dimensions of the mating parts that must be observed when assembling the engine and its components are given in table. 4.15.

Figure 4.137. Cylinder block and piston


Figure 4.138. crank mechanism


Figure 4.139. Intermediate shaft


Figure 4.140. Valve drive


Figure 4.141. Oil pump, pressure reducing valve and oil pump drive


Figure 4.142. Coolant pump The unbalance of the rotating parts and assemblies allowed when assembling the engine is indicated in table. 4.16.

Preparatory operations before assembling ZMZ-4061, ZMZ-4063 engines are the same as before assembling ZMZ-4025, ZMZ-4026 engines.

The engine must be assembled in the following order:

- fix the cylinder block on the stand, carefully examine the cylinder mirror, if necessary, remove the unworn belt over the upper compression ring with a scraper. Metal should be removed flush with the worn surface of the cylinder;

Unscrew the plugs of the oil channels and blow out all the oil channels with compressed air, screw the plugs into place;

Comment

Crankshaft, flywheel, and clutch assembly are not balanced

- wipe the bed with a napkin under the liners in the block and in the main bearing cap;

- install the upper (with grooves) main bearing shells in the block bed, and the lower ones (without grooves) in the cover bed;

Wipe the liners with a napkin and lubricate them with engine oil;

- wipe the main and connecting rod journals of the crankshaft with a napkin, lubricate them with clean engine oil and install the shaft in the cylinder block;

- lubricate with engine oil and install the thrust bearing half washers: the upper ones - in the grooves of the third main bed of the cylinder block (with an anti-friction layer to the crankshaft cheek); lower - together with the cover of the third main bearing. The antennae of the half washers should fit into the grooves of the cover;

Install the covers of the remaining supports on the corresponding main journals, tighten and tighten the bolts securing the main bearing caps to a torque of 100–110 N · m (10–11 kgf · m), after lubricating the bolt threads with engine oil;

- turn the crankshaft, its rotation should be free with little effort;

Take a cover with a rubber oil seal of the rear end of the crankshaft, check the suitability of the oil seal for further work. If the oil seal has worn lips or loosely covers the crankshaft flange, replace it with a new one. It is recommended to press the stuffing box into the cover using a support;

Fill 2/3 of the cavity between the working edge and the gland boot with CIATIM-221 grease, install and fasten the cover to the block with bolts with a torque of 12-18 N · m (1.2-1.8 kgf · m). Centering the cover with a mandrel;

Install the flywheel on the rear end of the crankshaft so that the hole in the flywheel aligns with the pin;

Install the flywheel bolt washer, attach and tighten the bolts to a torque of 72-80 N · m (7.2-8.0 kgf · m);

Install the spacer sleeve in the flywheel and press in the ball bearing 80203AC9 with the shields.

Re-assemble the connecting rod-piston group.

The selection of pistons to the cylinders of the block, as well as piston pins to pistons and connecting rods, should be carried out at a temperature of the parts (20 ± 3) ° C.

Pistons by outside diameter and cylinders by inside diameter are sorted into five size groups (see table 4.17).

Table 4.17. Dimensional groups of pistons and cylinders of the block

-

AND

92,000-91,988

92,036-92,048

B

92,012-92,000

92,048-92,060

IN

92,024-92,012

92,060-92,072

D

92,036-92,024

92,072-92,084

D

92,048-92,036

92,084-92,096

0,5

AND

92,500-92,488

92,536-92,548

B

92,512-92,500

92,548-92,560

IN

92,524-92,512

92,560-92,572

D

92,536-92,524

92,572-92,584

D

92,548-92,536

92,584-92,596

1

AND

93,000-92,988

93,036-92,048

B

93,012-93,000

93,048-93,060

IN

93,024-93,012

93,060-93,072

D

93,036-93,024

93,072-93,084

D

93,048-93,036

93,084-93,096

In bored or new cylinders of the block, it is necessary to install pistons of the same size groups as the cylinders.

Figure 4.60. Selection of the piston to the liner using a stylus tape and a dynamometer 24-U-17202

Selection from neighboring groups is allowed, while, as in the selection of pistons into working cylinders, the selection is made according to the pulling force of the probe tape 0.05 mm thick and 10 mm wide. The dipstick tape is laid between the cylinder and the piston along the entire piston height and is placed in a plane perpendicular to the piston pin axis along the largest piston diameter. The force on the dynamometer connected to the probe tape (see Figure 4.60) should be 35–45 N (3.5–4.5 kgf).

Piston marking

The letter denoting the group is knocked out on the piston crown;

The repair magnification is indicated by the inscription "406" ( standard size) or "406AR" (repair magnification 0.5), or "406BR" (repair magnification 1.0), cast on the side wall of one of the bosses under the piston pin.

The cylinder group letter is painted on the outer surface of the block, on the right, opposite each cylinder.

For ease of selection, the fingers, connecting rods and pistons are divided into four size groups as the size decreases (table 4.18).

III

21,9925-21,9900

21,9925-21,9900

21,9995-21,9970

Red

IV

Pin and crank markings

Pins and connecting rods are marked with paint: the pin is on the inner surface, the connecting rod is on the head shaft. Piston - in Roman numerals (knockout) on the bottom or paint on the weight boss.

The piston pin is matched to a connecting rod belonging to the same or an adjacent group with a clearance of 0.0045 to 0.0095 mm.

Figure 4.61. Matching the piston pin to the connecting rod

When selecting, the piston pin should fit tightly, but without jamming, into the hole of the upper connecting rod head under the force of the thumb (see figure 4.61). The piston pin should be lightly greased with engine oil.

Since the linear expansion of the piston material is approximately 2 times greater than that of the pin material, at normal room temperature the pin enters the bore of the piston pin bore with an interference fit. The size groups of the piston and pin must match.

The piston complete with piston pin, piston rings and connecting rod assembly must be controlled by weight. The difference in weight between sets per engine should not exceed 10 g.

After the selection of pistons and piston pins, it is necessary to continue the subassembly of the connecting rod-piston group in the following order:

Figure 4.59. Cleaning of carbon deposits in piston grooves

Clean the piston crowns and piston ring grooves from carbon deposits (see Figure 4.59);

Press the piston pin into the piston and connecting rod using a tool (see Figure 4.60). In this case, heat the piston to a temperature of 60-80 ° C (pressing a finger into a cold piston can lead to damage to the surface of the holes in the piston bosses, as well as to deformation of the piston itself). Connecting rods and pistons before assembly with the piston pin must be oriented as follows: the arrow on the piston crown (or the inscription "FRONT" located on the outer side of the pin boss), the shoulder on the side surface of the connecting rod cap and the protrusion on the connecting rod crank head must point towards one side;

Figure 4.63. Selection of piston rings to the cylinder

Select the piston rings for the cylinders. The thermal gap measured in the locks of the rings placed in the cylinder (see Figure 4.63) should be 0.3-0.6 mm for the compression rings and 0.5-1.0 mm for the steel discs of the oil scraper rings. In worn-out cylinders, make the smallest gap 0.3 mm for compression rings and 0.5 mm for steel disks of oil scraper rings;

Figure 4.64.

Check the gap between the rings and the wall of the piston groove with a feeler gauge (see Figure 4.64). Check around the circumference of the piston at several points. The size of the gap should be for the upper and lower compression rings in the range of 0.050-0.087 mm, for the assembled oil scraper ring - 0.115-0.365 mm;

Figure 4.4. Installation of piston rings on the piston: 1 - upper compression ring; 2 - lower compression ring; 3 - annular disc; 4 - axial expander; 5 - radial expander

Slide the piston rings onto the piston using the tool. Place the lower compression ring with the inner groove up to the bottom of the piston (see figure 4.4). The rings in the grooves must move freely;

Insert pistons into cylinders as follows:

Orient the connecting rod-piston group so that the arrow on the piston crown (or the inscription "FRONT" on the boss) is facing forward;

Wipe the beds of the connecting rods and their caps with a napkin, wipe them and insert the liners into them;

Turn the crankshaft so that the cranks of the first and fourth cylinders take the position corresponding to the BDC;

Lubricate the liners, piston, connecting rod journal and the first cylinder with clean engine oil;

Spread the locks of the compression rings at an angle of 180 ° to each other, the locks of the oil scraper rings also at an angle of 180 ° to each other and 90 ° in relation to the locks of the compression rings. Set the lock of the dual-function expander at an angle of 45 ° to the lock of one of the annular discs;

Put safety brass tips on the connecting rod bolts, squeeze the rings with a crimp or using a mandrel to install the piston into the cylinder;

Figure 4.65. Installing a piston with rings in a cylinder using a mandrel

Insert the piston into the cylinder (see figure 4.65). Before installing the piston, make sure that the numbers stamped on the connecting rod and its cover correspond to the serial number of the cylinder, check the correct position of the piston and connecting rod in the cylinder;

Pull the connecting rod by the crank head to the connecting rod journal, remove the brass tips from the bolts, put on the connecting rod cap. The connecting rod cap should be positioned so that the numbers stamped on the cap and connecting rod are facing the same direction. Tighten the nuts with a torque wrench to a torque of 68-75 N · m (6.8-7.5 kgf · m);

Insert the piston of the fourth cylinder in the same order;

Turn the crankshaft 180 ° and insert the pistons of the second and third cylinders;

Turn the crankshaft several times, which should rotate easily with a little effort;

Install the oil pump holder and the oil pump on the block and fix them;

Lubricate the intermediate shaft bushings with engine oil, install the key in the groove on the intermediate shaft shank and install the shaft into the cylinder block until the shank comes out;

Install the oil pump drive gear with a nut on the intermediate shaft end and screw on the gear nut;

Install and fix the intermediate shaft flange, while the smaller diameter of the hole on the flange should be adjacent to the block;

Lubricate the roller with the driven gear of the oil pump drive with engine oil and insert it into the hole in the block until the gears of the drive of the oil pump engage;

Insert the hexagonal shaft of the oil pump drive into the hole of the roller sleeve;

Install the gasket and cover for the oil pump drive, fix the cover;

Install the camshaft drives in the following order:

Figure 4.116. The front end of the crankshaft: 1 - bolt (or ratchet); 2 - pulley damper with a synchronization disk; 3 - stuffing box; 4 - chain cover; 5 - bushing; 6 - an asterisk; 7 - cylinder block; 8 - bearing shells; 9 - crankshaft; 10 - bearing cover; 11 - oil sump; 12 - rubber sealing ring; 13 - lock washer

Press sprocket 6 (see Figure 4.116) onto the crankshaft shank;

Install the rubber O-ring 12 and the bushing 5 with a large internal chamfer to the O-ring on the crankshaft end;

Install the crankshaft pulley key into the keyway;

Figure 4.118. Camshaft drive: 1 - crankshaft sprocket; 2 - lower chain hydraulic tensioner; 3 - soundproof rubber washer; 4 - plug; 5 - shoe of the lower chain hydraulic tensioner; 6 - lower chain; 7 - driven sprocket of the intermediate shaft; 8 - leading sprocket of the intermediate shaft; 9 - upper chain hydraulic tensioner shoe; 10 - hydraulic tensioner of the upper chain; 11 - top chain; 12 - alignment mark on the asterisk; 13 - locating pin; 14 - an asterisk of the intake camshaft; 15 - upper chain damper; 16 - an asterisk of the exhaust camshaft; 17 - the upper plane of the cylinder head; 18 - medium chain damper; 19 - lower chain damper; 20 - chain cover; Ml and M2 - timing marks on the cylinder block

Turn the engine crankshaft until the mark on the crankshaft sprocket coincides with the mark "M2" on the cylinder block (see Figure 4.118), which will correspond to the position of the piston of the first cylinder at TDC. In this case, the mark on the cylinder block should be located symmetrically relative to the axis of the sprocket teeth cavity;

Install the lower chain damper 19 without completely tightening the mounting bolts;

Put chain 6 on the driven sprocket 7 (number of teeth - 38) of the intermediate shaft and on the sprocket 1 of the engine crankshaft. Install a sprocket with a chain on the intermediate shaft, while the mark on the driven sprocket of the intermediate shaft must match the mark "M1" on the cylinder block, and the driving branch of the chain passing through the damper must be tensioned;

Install the drive sprocket 8 (number of teeth - 19) of the intermediate shaft and bolt the sprockets to the intermediate shaft. Bend the locking plate on the edge of the bolts;

Install shoe 5 of the hydraulic chain tensioner of the first stage (lower chain) of the camshaft drive;

Pressing on the hydraulic tensioner shoe, tension the chain, check the correct installation of the sprockets according to the marks and finally fix the lower damper 19. After installing the intermediate shaft drive chain, the crankshaft must not rotate until the camshaft drive chain and hydraulic tensioners are installed;

Install shoe 9 of the hydraulic chain tensioner of the second stage (upper chain) of the camshaft drive;

Put on the drive sprocket 8 of the intermediate shaft chain 11 of the second stage of the camshaft drive;

Take the chain cover with a rubber oil seal, check the suitability of the oil seal for further work. If the oil seal has worn lips or loosely covers the crankshaft bushing, replace it with a new one. It is recommended to press the gland into the cover using a mandrel;

Fill 2/3 the cavity between the working edge and the gland boot with CIATIM1-221 grease;

Keeping the second-stage chain from jumping off the intermediate shaft sprocket, install and fix the chain cover and simultaneously the generator bracket, tighten the screws to a torque of 22-27 N · m (2.2-2.7 kgf · m);

Install and fix the coolant pump on the chain cover by tightening the bolt securing the pump to the chain cover to a torque of 22-27 Nm (2.2-2.7 kgfm);

Lubricate the hole for the hydraulic tensioner in the chain cover with engine oil and install the assembled hydraulic tensioner 2 until it touches the shoe stop, but do not press in order to prevent the hydraulic tensioner lock from triggering;

Install a soundproof rubber washer 3 into the cover of the hydraulic tensioner;

Close the hydraulic tensioner with a cover and fix it with two bolts;

Press with a mandrel through the hole in the hydraulic tensioner cover on the hydraulic tensioner, moving it all the way, then release, while the locking ring on the plunger will disengage with the hydraulic tensioner body and allow the plunger and body to move under the action of the spring. The body will move all the way to the washer in the cover, and the chain will be pulled through the shoe;

Screw the plug 4 into the cover of the hydraulic tensioner;

Install on the coolant pump branch pipe a hose connecting the pump branch pipe with the thermostat housing branch pipe;

Apply a thin layer of Elastosil 137-83 adhesive sealant to the horizontal end of the chain cover and the joint of the chain cover with the cylinder block;

Install the cylinder head gasket on the block guide bushings and also apply Elastosil 137-83 adhesive sealant to the gasket surface above the chain cover;

Figure 4.34. Tightening sequence for cylinder head nuts

Install the assembled cylinder head on the block and tighten the head mounting bolts in two stages - preliminary tightening with a torque of 40-60 Nm (4-6 kgf · m) and final - 130-145 N · m (13.0-14.5 kgf M). The tightening sequence for the cylinder head bolts is shown in Fig. 4.34. Lubricate the bolt threads with oil before installation;

Unscrew the bolts and remove the camshaft covers, wipe the beds under the camshafts in the head and in the covers with a napkin;

Lubricate the holes in the head for hydraulic pushers with engine oil used for the engine and install the hydraulic pushers in the cylinder head. When repairing the engine without replacing the hydraulic pushers, install them in accordance with the marking applied to them during disassembly; if the hydraulic pusher fails, it must be replaced, since it is not repaired. It is necessary to remove the hydraulic pushers with a suction cup or magnet;

Install the camshafts on the cylinder head, after having lubricated the beds in the head, cams and bearing journals of the camshafts with engine oil. The intake camshaft is installed with the sprocket pin facing up, and the exhaust camshaft with the sprocket pin to the right. Due to the angular arrangement of the cams, these positions of the camshafts are stable;

Install the front camshaft cover with the thrust flanges installed in it on the dowel sleeves, while, due to the longitudinal movement of the camshafts, ensure the installation of the thrust flanges in the grooves;

Install covers No. 3 and No. 7 of the camshafts and pre-tighten the cap bolts until the surface of the caps touches the upper plane of the cylinder head;

Install all other covers in accordance with the marking and pre-tighten the cover bolts;

Finally, tighten the camshaft cover bolts to a torque of 19-23 Nm (1.9-2.3 kgfm);

Lubricate all camshaft cams with engine oil and check the rotation of each camshaft in the supports, for which turn the camshaft with a wrench using a special square on the camshaft until the valve springs of one of the cylinders are fully compressed. With further rotation, the camshaft should turn independently under the action of the valve springs until the next cams touch the pushers;

Check the ease of rotation of the camshafts and then turn them to orient them so that the locating pins 13 (see figure 4.118) under the sprockets are approximately horizontal and directed in different directions. These camshaft positions are stable and provided by the angular position of the cams;

Start checking the installation of the angular position of the camshafts from the exhaust valve shaft. To do this, putting the drive chain over the sprocket 16, install the sprocket on the flange and the camshaft pin, while turning the camshaft clockwise by the square to match the pin and the hole on the sprocket. By turning the camshaft counterclockwise, tighten the driving branch of the chain, while the mark 12 on the sprocket should coincide with the upper plane of the cylinder head 17. Do not allow the crankshaft to turn;

For angular installation of the exhaust camshaft, put the drive chain on the sprocket 14, install the sprocket on the flange and the camshaft pin with a slightly slack branch of the chain between the sprockets. By turning the camshaft counterclockwise, tighten the chain, while the mark 12 on the sprocket should coincide with the upper plane of the cylinder head;

Insert the fuel pump drive eccentric into the socket of the intake camshaft sprocket;

Install and tighten to 46—74 N · m (4.6–7.4 kgf · m) the sprocket bolts (and the eccentric on the intake camshaft), keeping the camshafts from turning with a wrench at the square;

Install the hydraulic tensioner 10 of the upper camshaft drive chain in the same way as the installation of the lower chain hydraulic tensioner;

Install the middle 18 and top 15 chain damper without completely tightening the mounting bolts;

Tighten the working branches of the second stage chain by turning the engine crankshaft in the direction of rotation and finally fix the middle and upper chain dampers;

Install the pulley on the crankshaft shank until it stops and screw in the bolt with a torque of 104-128 N · m (10.4 - 12.8 kgf · m);

Check the installation of the camshafts at the end of the assembly. To do this, turn the engine crankshaft in the direction of rotation two turns until the mark on the crankshaft damper coincides with the mark on the chain cover. In this case, the marks on the camshaft sprockets must coincide with the upper plane of the cylinder head;

When repairing an engine related to the removal of camshafts, cylinder heads and sprockets on the intermediate shaft, install the camshaft drive during assembly as indicated above;

If during repair the sprockets of the intermediate shaft and the chain cover are not removed, then before disassembling it is necessary to set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position on the compression stroke, while the risk on the crankshaft pulley should coincide with the protrusion on the chain cover, and the marks on the camshaft sprockets should be horizontal, directed in different directions and coincide with the upper plane of the cylinder preparation.

After removing the camshafts and the cylinder head, the crankshaft can only be rotated with a return to its original position or 2 turns. Turning the crankshaft by 1 revolution even if the marks on the pulley and the chain cover coincide will result in incorrect timing. If the camshafts and sprockets are incorrectly installed, the marks on the sprockets will not coincide with the upper plane of the cylinder head. In this case, it is necessary to remove the sprockets, turn the crankshaft in the direction of rotation by 1 revolution and repeat the installation of the sprockets, as indicated above;

Install and secure the coolant pump pulley;

Assemble the front cover of the cylinder head with the intermediate lever of the fuel pump drive and the spring;

Install and secure the front cylinder head cover;

Install the thermostat housing branch pipe into the hose on the coolant pump branch pipe and fix the thermostat housing to the cylinder head, tighten the hose clamps;

Install the exhaust manifold, the engine lifting bracket and the bracket for the water intake pipe on the studs of the exhaust manifold, and tighten the fastening nuts;

Press in the oil dipstick tube and install the pointer;

Install and secure the valve cover;

Install and fix the upper generator bracket and at the same time the front engine lifting bracket;

Install and secure the tension roller;

Install and secure the inlet pipe;

Lubricate the joints of the lower flange of the cylinder block with the chain cover and with the rear cover with Elastosil 137-83 glue and sealant or UN-25 paste;

Install the oil pan gasket on the lower flange of the cylinder block;

Install and secure the oil pan and clutch housing amplifier;

Install and secure the clutch driven and pressure discs, centering the driven disc with a mandrel;

Put the engine parts and assemblies, (see "Dismantling the engine"), observing the reverse sequence;

Remove the engine from the stand, install and attach the clutch housing to the cylinder block;

Lubricate and put on the front cover of the gearbox the clutch release clutch assembly with the bearing;

Install and secure the gearbox;

Install the clutch release fork.

Installing the engine on a car

The engine is installed on the car in the reverse order of its removal.