Service:

Spark plugs are essential element in trouble-free operation of the engine, igniting the fuel-air mixture in the combustion chamber of the car engine. In most cases, the number of spark plugs corresponds to the number of cylinders in a car engine, but there are exceptions.

With any problems with the candles, the entire propulsion system of the machine begins to suffer, even if there is a malfunction in one of several candles. The plug replacement period can be found in the car's service card, but if any problems with the engine appear, the plugs should be replaced irreplaceably. The masters of the Mosavtoshin company strongly recommend replacing the candles in the car Chery tiggo every 15,000 km even when using original candles.

The main task of spark plugs is their ability to withstand extreme loads. You should always remember a simple rule: more expensive spark plugs will last much longer than cheaper ones. In case of problems with motor system car, in no case should you postpone their replacement. Quite often the problem with the spark plugs leads to the action of the "Check Engine" error.

Replacement made on time spark plugs in Chery Tiggo will significantly increase your fuel economy while saving money.

You should not replace the spark plugs yourself if you are not sure of the safe removal of the plug from the cylinder. At the location of our service there is special equipment that allows you to effectively make a replacement in a short time.

After replacing spark plugs on a Chery car, our specialist will determine the main indicators of the condition of the internal combustion engine: the quality of the fuel used, problems with the engine, the efficiency of the fuel supply.

The cost of replacing candles on a Chery Tiggo car in North-East Administrative District

The cost of replacing candles is displayed per piece and does not include the cost of consumables. The approximate replacement time for 1 candle is 6 minutes.

Chery Tiggo 2005. The main reasons for the triple engine

Incorrect ignition timing.
- Air leaks in the brake vacuum booster system.
- Faulty spark plugs. It is worth noting that this problem is the most common, since the spark plugs need to be changed after the car passes every 20,000 kilometers (this figure depends on the recommendations given by the designers to each car).
- Breakdown of the high-voltage wire that fits the spark plug.
- Faulty installed capacitor.
- Violation of the tightness of the system in the area of \u200b\u200bthe intake manifold.
- The appearance of burnout of one of the piston, valve.
- Piston ring breakage, deformation and wear also lead to this problem.
- Incorrect adjustment of the valve timing.
- High degree of rocker wear.
- Breakdown of the installed cylinder head gasket.
- Any kind of wear (hardening, breakdown, destruction) of the valve stem seals.
- If the carburetor is incorrectly adjusted, cylinder malfunction can also occur.
- Condition of the installed distributor shaft, pivot plate bearing.
- Clogging air filter.
- Loss of tightness of the membrane of the vacuum ignition timing regulator.
- Use of unsuitable spark plugs (not only dimensions are taken into account, but also other parameters of this element) for this engine.

Engine troit

Engine structure - the definition by which it should be understood a failure in iCE operationwhen one or more cylinders do not work partially or completely. To put it another way, the combustion process of the fuel-air mixture in individual cylinders is disrupted, which causes unstable engine operation on idling, under load and in transient conditions.

The structure of the engine manifests itself in the form of increased vibrations of the power unit, the engine noticeably loses power. Ignition misfires can be observed, which are accompanied by strong popping in the exhaust system. The motor can run both occasionally and constantly, only at idle or under load, on cold, on hot, etc. Next, we intend to answer the question of what is engine triplet, and also consider the main reasons why the motor begins to triple.

Why does the motor start to triple

The engine trot is a violation of the combustion of the mixture in the cylinders, which is accompanied by a clear increase in vibration. Please note that the appearance of vibrations of the internal combustion engine is not necessarily a triple, since there are a number of other reasons why the engine vibrates strongly.

The main malfunctions, as a result of which the engine troit:

Insufficient or excessive fuel supply to the cylinder;
- supply of insufficient or excess air;
- malfunctions of the ignition system, early or late ignition;
- wear or breakdown of the motor, which is accompanied by a decrease in compression;

In other words, the engine begins to triple as a result of an inappropriate composition of the fuel-air mixture, untimely ignition of the mixture or the inability to ignite the charge, as well as violations of the conditions for normal combustion of the mixture as a result of mechanical wear or breakdowns of the engine itself.
Based on these data, it is possible to narrow the search and the number of systems for diagnostics. You should start checking with fuel system and the injector, then the intake air supply and the ignition system are checked. In some cases, engine tripping may also be the result of a failure of one of the ECM sensors.

The engine is troit: the ignition of the fuel-air mixture is broken

The most common reason that causes the motor to triple is late or early ignitionand a weak spark from the spark plug. At the initial stage, you should unscrew the spark plugs for a detailed inspection. If damage to the insulator or other defects is noticeable, then the spark plug should be replaced.

In the case of a damaged insulator, the place of damage is clearly visible, since this area turns black. You should also pay attention to the condition of the center electrode and evaluate the clearance of the side electrode.
Next, you need to check the spark plug wires. An indirect sign indicating this element is the occasional triplet of the motor in conditions of high humidity (rain, dampness, etc.). After warming up and leaving the motor for working temperature symptoms may disappear completely.

You should start by inspecting the candle cap and the high-voltage wire itself. These elements have rubber insulation, which tends to dry out and crack over time, as a result of which the wire begins to break through.
Also high voltage wire or the cap is often damaged during service or renovation works in the engine compartment. We add that the place of the breakdown can be visually undetectable. In this case, it is better to check this element of the ignition system using one of the available methods.
If everything is in order with the candles and wires, then the ignition coil may be the culprit for the engine troit. On motors with separate coils for each candle, this phenomenon is especially common. To check the ignition coil, you need to unscrew the spark plug, attach it to the ground and start the engine. Please note that the thread of the candle should touch the mass tightly, the cap should be tightly put on the candle. Failure to follow these guidelines can result in burnout of the coil or switch. A good spark with a characteristic crackle will indicate that the coil is working, the absence of a spark will indicate the need to replace the coil.

Concerning electronic distributor ignition (switch), this element does not break often. To check, the candles are securely attached to the ground, then the caps are connected to them, after which one person turns the motor with a starter, and the other evaluates the strength of the spark on the candles.

Motor structure: air supply problems

Insufficient or excessive intake air supply can also cause tripping through the cylinders. The air supply system can lose its tightness and the engine begins to suck in excess air. The ECU does not take into account this leakage, as a result, the stability of operation is disturbed.

Verify air system simple enough. It is necessary to tightly close the inlet pipe next to the air filter, then pump air to create a pressure of about ½ atmosphere, and then look for the leak. If the pressure does not drop, then the system is sealed. The appearance of a hissing sound of outgoing air allows you to determine the problem area through which the motor sucks in excess.

Air shortages are often caused by a dirty air filter that has lost its capacity. The filter must be removed and the engine performance evaluated after removal. Also, there may be insufficient air in the event that the throttle valve is clogged or there is a problem with this unit. The specified element requires mandatory cleaning and inspection. It is advisable to do this at each scheduled maintenance in parallel with the replacement engine oil, filters, etc.
Another reason for the triplet engine may be the DPDZ, DMRV or another sensor that gives the wrong signal to the ECU. In such a situation, the control unit does not know to what degree the damper is actually open, how much air actually entered the engine, etc. On the basis of incorrect data, the "brains" cannot accurately calculate the optimal composition of the fuel-air mixture in relation to the dynamically changing operating modes of the internal combustion engine.

In this case, you should view the readings of the sensors and read the errors with a scanner that is connected to the diagnostic connector of the car. Then the values \u200b\u200bmust be compared with the nominal values. Deviations from the norm in the readings of the air flow meter or position sensor throttle lead to the fact that the engine begins to triple.

Driving over cylinders: power system faulty

When checking the power system, you should pay attention to the following nuances:

Fuel pressure;
- air suction;

The fuel pressure directly depends on the serviceability of the electric fuel pump, which is located in fuel tank... The fuel pump filter mesh may be clogged in the device, there may be problems with the electric motor fuel pump or by energizing the pump. It is also worth checking the fuel rail pressure regulator valve. Low pressure in the fuel supply system is often the cause of triplet.

The next step is to check the injection nozzles. This element tends to clog, as a result of which the throughput decreases, the shape of the spray pattern is disturbed, etc. Also, the failure of the nozzle itself should not be ruled out. To clean and check the nozzles, you can use a flushing stand, on which a special flushing fluid and power is supplied. In such conditions, the operation of the injector on the engine is simulated, the performance is evaluated, etc.

You can also check and clean the nozzles yourself. For this, a liquid is also pumped through the device (for example, a carburetor cleaner). Power is supplied through simple scheme with a lamp from the battery terminal.
A working injector should not leak when closed. Also, the injector should open in a timely manner when an electrical impulse is applied. It is not allowed for the injector to pour fuel, since the efficiency of the subsequent combustion of the charge in the cylinder depends on the quality of the spray.

If the fuel pressure and the injector itself are in order, then the ECU should be checked. The control unit itself rarely fails, but it is possible. More often this happens in those cases when the factory firmware was changed when installing HBO or the engine was done with software chip tuning. Unprofessional manipulation of fuel cards can lead to the fact that the ECU overflows fuel and fills the spark plugs.

Reduced compression in cylinders

Loss of compression indicates engine malfunction or wear. One or more cylinders are partially or completely not working, so fuel and air are supplied, but the mixture is not compressed properly. In this case, normal combustion does not occur. A drop in compression occurs due to burnout of pistons or valves, severe wear of piston rings and other defects of the BC, cylinder head or timing elements.

In this case, it is necessary to measure the compression in the engine, after which the unit is disassembled for detailed diagnostics and repair. In conclusion, I would like to add that the operation of a motor with an inoperative cylinder is prohibited, since driving with such a malfunction leads to the emergence of a whole series additional problems, which greatly complicates and makes subsequent repairs more expensive.

15.11.2016

For all its seeming simplicity, the maintenance of candles on each car has its own characteristics. And in addition to the type of candles themselves, the required clearance on them, there is also the concept of a constructive difference between car engines, which entails a different approach to the procedure for unscrewing the candles. We invite you to familiarize yourself with how to properly maintain candles on the Chery Tiggo crossover.

According to the manufacturer's recommendations, ordinary candles on Tigo must be replaced every 20,000 kilometers. If you have iridium, then in this case, the frequency of their replacement can be increased three times. However, this does not mean that you can drive 20 or 60 thousand kilometers calmly and be sure that you still have everything in order with the candles: they need to be checked periodically, and it is better to do it yourself, making this procedure an ordinary one, at least - monthly, and even weekly. Well, if the deadline has already come, then regardless of the fact that your candles still seem normal to you, feel free to buy new ones and start replacing.

The very process of checking candles is in any case associated with their extraction. Therefore, by learning how to check candles, you will also know how to replace them. So, on Chery Tiggo we do this operation using a 10 key, a candle key with rubber grommet (which holds the candles in the key), as well as a special round probe or a set of flat probes (for measuring the gap in the candle).

Now comes the coldest period of the year - winter. And although checking candles is a mandatory event for year-round operation, especially in winter, faulty candles are delivered the largest number hassle. Protect yourself from them - change the candles on time!

You may find it helpful:

Replacing candles with Forza is not such a difficult procedure that it cannot be done by hand. At the same time, it is also included in the list of periodic maintenance procedures for the car, which means that you will have to deal with it regularly.

Replacement frequency and suitable candles ZAZ Forza

When to change candles - candles for ZAZ Forza are recommended to be checked every 30,000 km, and replacement frequency is 40,000 km... Or every 4 years. At the same time, on Chery A13, this interval is slightly less - 20 and 30 thousand kilometers, respectively.

Which candles to put - DENSO candles - K20PBRS-10, BERU - 14FR-7DTU, BRISK - DR15TC, NGK - BKPR6ET are suitable.

Replacing ZAZ Forza candles

Before replacing, it is worth blowing out the upper part of the engine with compressed air so that debris does not get into the cylinders.

First you need to remove the ignition coil cap, then unscrew the spark plug from the well using a spark plug wrench (with a magnet or rubber band). New the candle should be inserted back into the key, and only then carefully lower it into the well and tighten it tightly (tightening torque - 30 Nm).

Thus, all candles change. How to change candles with your own hands Forze can be seen in this video.

Operating experience carburetor cars (especially in winter) taught me to be more careful when choosing spark plugs. Agree that you really do not want to jump around the car in the early morning in the cold trying to catch someone to "pull" or give a "light" to your engine, after the battery is thoroughly planted, and the engine does not show signs of life. Of course there is a category of drivers for whom there is nothing wrong with this order of things, they say anything can happen, but personally I always wanted to just sit in the car and calmly start it without looking at the thermometer. In addition to winter, there is also frankly bad gasoline, which also spoils the nerves thoroughly, especially far from civilization, somewhere on the way to Anapa. So, having tried a considerable number of different spark plugs in my lifetime, I came to the conclusion that there is nothing better than multi-electrode spark plugs. The latest example of a super modern candle from Bosh, only confirmed this idea. Now everything is in order.

	I do not want to go into the theory very deeply in this article. I will try to get by with a simplified description of how spark plugs work. Why is a multi-electrode plug preferred? The answer is very simple, especially for those who unscrew the spark plugs after a failed engine start. That's right - one contact gets wet or burned much faster. In addition, the spark gap in the multi-electrode plug remains unchanged longer and is always oriented towards the center of the cylinder.
			At the dawn of motorsport, in order to achieve the maximum engine power, mechanics tried to select and screw in the spark plugs in such a way that the gap for everyone was oriented not towards the cylinder wall, but towards a larger volume. I hope we sorted it out. Then there is another trick that was born in the same workshops and continues in modern candles. The central electrode was sharpened on a sharp point to facilitate air breakdown, but from this it burned out very quickly. In modern candles for a thin electrode, rare earth refractory metals (platinum, iridium, etc.) are used.
	And now from practice. I traveled almost 40,000 km using a set of four contact candles NGK BKR6EQUP and this summer decided it was time to change them. Decided to try Bosh Platinum with a thin platinum center electrode. But in the fall, unpleasant jerks began to be observed on a cold engine, which prompted me to check these vaunted candles. The result shocked me. As you can see from the photos, the central electrode on the two candles just burned out. But the mileage was less than 10,000 km. Apparently the additives in our gasoline easily deal with platinum.
			It's good that the old candles were lying in the trunk. They (see photo below), although pretty shabby, still work quite well. For myself, I decided that so far this is the most acceptable option. The price really bites a little (about 460 rubles apiece), but they are worth the money. Some will argue that they say for this money you can buy 4 sets of candles. Yes you can, but let's talk about it in winter. By the way, there is a good option from other manufacturers, at a more reasonable price. By the way, the packaging of NGK candles has changed - see the photo below.

For those who want to learn more about the candles, I give a link to a page describing the tests of various multi-electrode candles, from where I borrowed the first two pictures