Because my car was already running a little more than 77 thousand km, and it was far from the best roads, it was time for the silent blocks to die (they walk on front-wheel drive Skoda / wagens they are 60-80 thousand according to the experience of a friend from Skoda service), which was diagnosed 1.5 -2 thousand km ago. More precisely, then there were small cracks on the rear silencers, but during this time they grew and the living surface of the silencer remained 40-50%. The front silent tires are worn out quite a bit for all the time, but it was also decided to change at the same time.
Silent blocks chose polyurethane from the firm "fulcrum" (put on several Volga friends, proved to be positive). The rear is different from the origanal in that it is one-piece, the front is identical to the original.
It is most convenient to replace it on a pit or a lift, but having resigned, you can do without them.
From the tool you will need: a key for 18, 6-sided heads for 16 and 18 (you can also use ordinary keys), an extension cord, a ratchet, a torque wrench, heads for unscrewing the engine protection (I have a steel non-original one, it interfered with unscrewing the front bolts of the lever , perhaps the original will not interfere), we also need a press-in and press-in mandrel for the rear silent block, a bolt m 12 120-140 mm long + a nut, a large washer and an extension of a larger diameter than the silent block about 50 mm long (you can use a pipe cut) this is for pressing out / pressing in of the front silencer, well, a press or a vice, a balloon, a jack and stops for hanging the car.
Removing the lever is quite simple: three ball nuts and two bolts securing the lever to the subframe.
I pressed out / pressed in the rear silent blocks on a screw press, but here the vice will do quite well. I pulled out the front silencers with the above-described bolt with a washer and a pipe, it comes out quite easily. Before pressing in, the seat of the silencer was well cleaned from the remains of the rubber silencer, dirt and dust, because silent without an external clip, or rather it serves as a lever. Then he liberally lubricated the silent and the seat with the grease supplied with them (very similar to graphite), and tightened the silent in place with the same bolt, adjusted the edge with a screwdriver.
Before installing the silent blocks, the seats in the stretcher were also thoroughly cleaned and smeared with lithol with graphite dust (you can use ready-made graphite grease or clean lithol as a last resort), also greased the adjacent part of the rear bush. When installing the levers, I had to tinker a little, because the wider "skirt" of the rear silencer made it difficult to slide it back into place, but a hammer and pry bar solved the problem. After that he stretched out all the fasteners at the given moment: ball nuts 100 Newton (you can on a suspended machine, it's more convenient), and the bolts of the lever to the subframe 70 Newtons + turn 90 degrees to do this MANDATORY on a machine already on wheels !!! I am satisfied with the result, the car did not become more tough (although I was afraid of this because of the solid rear silencers), there are no squeaks! The steering wheel has become sharper again) 100 km already dashed off, everything is fine, after 600 km THEN, let's see how they will feel.
Catalogs of polyurethane silent blocks: front silent 22061967, rear 22062221. For standard lovers: front 357407182 rear 1j0407181.

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Well done, everything is well painted, step by step, I have already changed mine too, though I had enough of them for 240,000, I pressed the front ones into soap, because I think that rubber and grease are a bad pair, the rear ones I sawed through the clip with a hacksaw, after that they came out easily, the press there was no rear hammer at hand, the front ones were easily handled by a small vice, I think three ball nuts can be tightened without a torque wrench, there you will understand when enough is enough, so to speak, very informative, they stretch, without surprises

The silent blocks are a pair of metal bushings. One of them is internal - the other is external. A polyurethane insert must be placed between them. The Volkswagen Polo suspension is quite durable. Original parts last a long time, there are many different analogues on the market. It is necessary to monitor the condition of the levers, as well as the silent blocks.

What are

The bushing of the suspension arm connects all its main components. In addition, they participate in the work of shock absorbers.

At the same time, these details perform a list of different tasks at once. It is very important to monitor their condition. At the first sign of a malfunction, it must be replaced. First of all, this concerns various tears. Volkswagen gives a guarantee for this part for about 50 thousand km. As a rule, the original parts of this car also cover 60-70 thousand km. But it is important to note that these components can fail more often.

You can assess the condition of the part, including yourself, at home. It is enough just to lift the car on a lift or install it on the observation pit. The main signs of a malfunction of silent blocks and levers:

• the surface of the silent block should be smooth and crack-free;
• the absence of backlash is important - if it is present, the parts will need to be replaced.

The consequences of silent block wear can be quite serious. First of all, it is a decrease in handling, the car can "throw" from side to side.

Uneven tire wear can also occur. Therefore, it is important to monitor the proper condition of these parts, if necessary, replace them as quickly as possible.

Separately, it should be noted the issue of choosing parts for this car. As in all other cases, there is always a question of choosing between the original part and the analogue. The first ones are much more expensive, but their quality is much higher. Moreover, the price of these components is relatively low, the choice must be made in favor of the former. Original parts have a significantly longer service life. That will increase the time until the next replacement.

The cost of silent blocks will be:

The levers themselves, as a rule, do not need to be changed. Damaging them is extremely problematic. When choosing silent blocks, it must be borne in mind that different manufacturers designate parts differently. This also applies to the direction arrows on the rubber part itself. In the absence of experience, it is better to contact a service station.

When choosing levers for replacement, VAG is the best solution, a compromise of price-quality ratio. This manufacturer supplies quality parts that are almost indistinguishable from the originals.

How is the replacement of silent blocks, levers carried out

After the selection of the necessary parts has been made, they are purchased, you should prepare everything you need for repair work:

• wrench with removable sockets - "ratchet";
• end heads of the following numbers: No. 16; # 18; # 19;
• ring spanners: No. 16; # 18; # 19;
• the key to detach the wheel mounts - 17;
• a torque wrench - if possible, but not required.

For a specific example, the following front suspension arm silent blocks have been selected:

• 357 407 182;
• 1J0 407 181.

The selected ones are analogs from Lemforder, and of sufficient quality. You should not try to save money on details such as silent blocks. The cost of a complete set is not more than 1 thousand rubles, but their failure can cause serious trouble. Separately, it is necessary to dwell on the pressing process. It will require:

• bolt m12 × 150 mm;
• nut m12 - 2 pcs .;
• reinforced washer m12 - 2 pcs.

The process itself includes the following main stages:

• you need to put the car on the handbrake, raise it - you can install it on supports;

• the next step is to unscrew the wheels;

• if there is one, it will be necessary to remove the engine protection - since it will interfere with the unscrewing of the bolts - when dismantling the front silent block;
• the front wheel mud flaps are disconnected - they will also interfere with the dismantling process;
• then it will be necessary to disconnect the nuts securing the ball joint - for this, an end head 16 is used;
• the process is carried out in the following order: unscrew the bolt fastening to the subframe - the head is 18; then it is necessary to unscrew the bolt of the rear silent block - the head is 18;
• after completing all the operations, it will be necessary to remove the bolts from the holes in the suspension arm;

Next, you will need to remove the front part of the bracket suspension arm. If necessary, the subframe brackets must be free of dirt and corrosion. After that, the front silent block is pressed out with a special device. It is, in fact, the most common vice.

Further, after preparation, it is necessary to press the silent blocks into the levers. It is important to take into account a significant nuance - when pressing in the silent block, the stop should only be laid along the inner ring. As a result, the work looks like this:

The rear bush is pressed in in the same way. After the pressing is completed, it will be necessary to install the levers in the reverse order. The replacement process is no different on different versions of the Volkswagen Polo body - sedan, hatchback. It is important to replace silent blocks in a timely manner. Since a good suspension is a guarantee of vehicle stability on the road. The appearance of backlash and other problems when driving a vehicle is possible.

This process has certain nuances and subtleties. In general, it does not require special equipment. But in the absence of conditions, it is best to contact a service station. This will avoid many problems and difficulties.

With silent blocks - one of the main suspension elements of the Volkswagen Polo. Their damage worsens the stability and controllability of the car, so do not postpone the repair "until better times."

Malfunctions and symptoms

Damage to suspension elements can be signaled by:

• drifts and "floating" of the car,
• knocking when driving on uneven road,
• increased tire wear.

Prevention and diagnosis

Before starting repairs, check the condition of all suspension components. The levers change when cracks or deformations are detected, and the silent blocks in the following cases:

• damage to the ends,
• cracking of the rubber mass,
• tearing or flaking
• asymmetric rubber bulging.

Spare parts

All defective parts must be replaced with new ones. If the lever is in excellent condition, you can save on spare parts by replacing only the worn out "silent". The front levers of the Volkswagen Polo sedan contain two silent blocks:

• front (smaller size),
• and rear (more massive).

In order not to disassemble the chassis once again, it is better to replace both parts at once. The only condition for the long-term operation of the re-assembled unit is good quality and correct installation of new parts.

Work order

For high-quality and durable restoration of the chassis you will need:

• observation ditch or lift,
• torque wrench,
• set of locksmith tools,
• ball joint puller,
• press with a set of mandrels,
• stand for checking wheel alignment angles.

Not every garage has this "arsenal", so the best way to rebuild your suspension is to visit a professional.

By contacting any of the Volkswagen car services in our network, you will receive:

• assistance in choosing the right parts for your car,
• repair and adjustment of the suspension in full accordance with the factory technology,
• a guarantee of the quality of the work performed.

Front suspension arms are integral elements of the steering system of all vehicles, without exception, whether the suspension design is ball or pivot. These parts, being one of their ends on the Volkswagen Polo, are connected to the wheels, and the second to ball bearings, ultimately, and rotate the wheels in a vertical plane, obeying the driver turning the steering wheel.

Polo front suspension design features

The design of the MacPherson-type front independent suspension, which stands on the Polo, consists of the following components: two shock absorbers with springs, a wishbone and two silent blocks, which additionally soften the suspension.

All these elements are assembled into a single, fairly compact design, but at the same time it is efficiently performing its functions, and is durable and reliable.

Yes, German designers and assemblers have tried: in terms of suspension reliability, Polo has few competitors. But, as you know, nothing is eternal - all suspension elements have their own, albeit rather high, resource. So over time they have to be replaced with new ones. Leverage is no exception to this list.

Why might it be necessary to replace the Polo Sedan levers and repair the front suspension?

There are several signs, when they appear, you should contact a car service and diagnose the front suspension and, if necessary, replace its elements. They are as follows:

Attention! You are unlikely to be able to determine the type of front suspension malfunction on your own, focusing on one symptom or another - this will require a professional diagnosis of the entire mechanism. But if, for example, the lever did not bent, but turned out to be broken (this does not happen often, but such cases still happen), it will simply not be possible not to feel it. It will no longer be possible to continue driving with such a malfunction - you will have to call a tow truck and take the car to the service.

Lever breakage prevention

Can a lever breakage be prevented? In most cases, yes. Routine maintenance of the car according to the manufacturer's recommendations and regular diagnostics of its chassis will protect the car from sudden breakdowns that require serious and expensive repairs, but will not save it from having to replace worn parts. Here, as they say, forewarned means protected.

It is impossible to say with any certainty what the resource of the suspension arms is - too many factors affect the rate of their wear. Moreover, not a single driver is insured against such troubles as a stone bouncing from under the wheel or a hole in the asphalt.

Note to the driver! On condition of trouble-free and relatively careful operation of the car, Polo manufacturers assure that their cars are able to drive up to half a million kilometers on the original levers. However, most chassis components are only warranted for $ 200,000. It all depends on the quality of the roads on which you drive and how carefully you drive your car.

Replacing the silent blocks of the front levers of the Polo Sedan: features of the procedure

But such an element as a silent block, being, in fact, a consumable, has no guarantee. This part is a bushing of two steel tubes, between which a layer of wear-resistant elastic rubber is laid. Experiencing constant multidirectional forces during movement, these parts fail quite often.

Fortunately, replacing them is easy and inexpensive. This does not require disassembling the entire front suspension. It is enough just to install the car on a lift or, in extreme cases, on a jack, remove the wheels, knock out the worn out silent block from under the lever and put a new one in its place.

However, installing a new element is not an easy job. For this, it is not enough to have the appropriate tool - you also need some experience. Without it, you can install a new part not evenly enough. And this is fraught with the fact that it will not fully fulfill its functions. Therefore, it is better to entrust even this not the most laborious operation to specialists.

Replacement of silent blocks Polo Sedan in our car services

On the front levers, replacing these elements is somewhat more difficult than on the rear ones. This is explained by a more complex suspension design. Being independent, it consists of more components than the rear one and disassembling it, respectively, is more difficult and longer. As well as adjusting after repair.

The very replacement of the silent blocks of the front levers of the Volkswagen Polo sedan is carried out in the same way: the worn ones are either knocked out, or they are squeezed out from under the levers using a special tool, after which new ones are pressed into their place.

Two things make this operation easier:

• firstly, these elements of the front and rear suspension are identical;
• secondly, the front silent blocks need replacement, as practice shows, less often than the rear ones.

Silent blocks on the Volkswagen Polo Sedan: replacement is required urgently or how to understand that "the time has come"

If the car is not overloaded, then these parts can work without problems up to 150 thousand km. Otherwise, after 20-30 thousand km. you will need to replace the VW Polo silent blocks (the rear elements are most susceptible to wear). The following signs will indicate that it is time to install new parts:

• increased vibration of the machine when it is moving;
• uneven wear of the wheel tread (in case of a malfunction of the front suspension silent blocks - front, rear - respectively, rear);
• the appearance of a squeak or even bumps in the suspension.

Attention! When we talk about silent blocks on the Polo Sedan, the replacement of elements when these signs occur should be carried out as soon as possible. To continue to operate the machine in this state would mean breaking its suspension at an accelerated pace.

High-quality replacement of the silent blocks of the front Polo Sedan and levers: what's the secret?

In the matter of replacing both levers and silent blocks that have failed, it is hardly possible to do without a car service master. Replacing silent blocks, as well as replacing the levers of the Polo Sedan, is not only much more complicated and time-consuming, but also more responsible. The handling and stability of the car on the road depends on how well it is made.

For this, the front suspension is completely disassembled - otherwise the old lever and the silent block will simply not be removed. Whatever misfortune happens to these elements, even if the lever is simply bent, a new one should be installed instead. Purely theoretically, a deformed part can be restored, but it is unlikely that after that it will be able to serve for any long time: metal fatigue affects. So in the very near future, it will bend again - and again in the same place.

Important! Only native Volkswagen components or their counterparts from well-known manufacturers should be used for replacement - the load on the lever and its silent block is too high to take risks in order to save money and buy parts of dubious origin and quality. And just the percentage of factory defects (and this also takes place) for branded products is much lower.

Replacing silent blocks can be done independently in a garage. The replacement takes about 2 hours. This procedure requires the following tools:

1. Box key.
2. Ratchet.
3. Heads 17 and 19.
4. Lever 19.
5. Hammer.
6. Chisel.
7. Vice.

Replacing the silent blocks of the front suspension arms

1. Place the vehicle on a pit or box.
2. Turn on the speed and handbrake.
3. Dismantle the required wheel (on which side the silent block changes).
4. Remove the bolt and nut securing the ball joint. To do this, you need a head or a 17 key. On the reverse side, you need to fix the bolt, otherwise it will turn.
5. Remove the fist from the ball joint.
6. Unscrew the anti-roll bar nut with a 17 wrench.
7. Unscrew the two bolts securing the lever with a 19 key.
8. Unscrew the two mounting bolts of the silent blocks with a key or a 19 head.
9. Remove front bushings by knocking out or cutting.
10. Assess their condition. If there are cuts, severe abrasions, chips - replace.
11. New silent blocks must be lubricated first.
12. When installing, it is necessary to observe the arrows for the position of the silent block and its sides.
13. The seat must be cleaned with sandpaper and it is recommended to lubricate.
14. It is necessary to buy the silent block with a hammer, while it is not recommended to tap hard.
15. Installation of other parts is carried out in the reverse order of removal.

Replacing the silent blocks of the rear suspension arms

The tools are the same as when replacing the front silent blocks, plus also keys for 21, 22, WD-40, a torque wrench (recommended). Replacement instructions:

1. Remove three bolts 18 and a nut 21 before jacking up the vehicle.
2. Install chocks under the front wheels.
3. Jack up the vehicle from the desired rear wheel.
4. Dismantle the wheel.
5. Treat the WD-40 protection and unscrew the 4 nuts with a 10 wrench.
6. Remove the mounting bolts for the silent blocks.
7. Remove the silent block. Assess his condition. Replace if there are chips, cuts, abrasions and severe wear.
8. It is also necessary to replace all mounting bolts and nuts with new ones.
9. After installing the new silent block, tighten all new mounting bolts with the necessary force N.m. Bolts with a nut 120 N.m, and bolts 18 110 N.m.
10. Install the protection back.
11. Start the car and drive it for several kilometers.
12. Assess the ride condition after replacing silent blocks. Extraneous noise should disappear.

No need to visit service centers. You can replace silent blocks in a garage. Replacement times vary by driver experience. As a rule, it takes no more than 2-3 hours to replace each of the silent blocks. All operations are recommended to be done with gloves.