Many owners of front-wheel drive VAZs are worried about the problem why eats timing belt? Most often, this question is asked by the owners of the following VAZ models - 2108, 2109, 2110, 2112, 2114, Kalina, Priora, Grant (and this problem occurs on engines with both 8 and 16 valves). There is only one general answer to this question - the belt is skewed. And it, in turn, can happen for a number of reasons - the pump is unevenly installed, a low-quality roller, an unsuitable washer is installed between the roller and the block (or it is absent altogether) and some others. Each of these problems is solved in its own way. In most cases, work to eliminate the causes can be carried out independently, subject to the availability of appropriate experience and tools. This will save money, and the actual repair work does not take much time and effort.

The reasons why the timing belt eats

There are seven main reasons why the timing belt is eating. To get started, we'll just list and describe them, and in the next section we'll show you how you can solve each problem.

The hairpin can bend if it is tightened with a torque of more than 4.2 kgf · m. The data is relevant for all front-wheel drive VAZs, where this problem is most often encountered.

As practice shows, the last described reason is most common. And car enthusiasts have invented a universal method with which they can correct the situation.

Breakdown elimination methods

Now let us list the methods for eliminating these causes. Let's go in the same order.

1. Belt tension... First you need to check the tension level and compare it with that recommended by the car manufacturer (usually indicated in the technical documentation for the car, it can also be found on the Internet). If this value is higher than the recommended value, then the tension must be released. This is done using a torque wrench. If you do not have one, then it is better to contact a car service. In extreme cases, you can perform this procedure "by eye", but use the indicated devices as soon as possible. You can also use a regular dynamometer and a regular wrench for this.
2. Poor belt... If there are different rigidity on the two edges of the belt, then a situation will arise when the timing roller eats the belt from the softer side. You can check this by replacing it with the right and left sides. If after replacement the second side does not wear out, then the belt is to blame. There is only one way out, and it consists in buying and installing new, better quality parts.
3. Pump bearing wear... To diagnose this problem, it is necessary to dismantle the belt and check for play on the toothed pulley. If there is a gap, then it is necessary to replace the part. Bearings cannot be repaired.
4. The pump is installed crookedly... This situation is possible if, during the previous replacement, the adjacent surface was poorly cleaned, and small particles of the old gasket and / or pieces of dirt remained on it, but if this happened, then most likely you will understand this by the leak that appeared after pouring antifreeze and starting the engine. When installing a new pump (or even an old one if it is in good condition), be sure to thoroughly clean both surfaces (including the bolt seats), both on the pump itself and on the engine housing, and install a new gasket. In some cases, a sealant is placed under the pump instead of a gasket.
5. Movie problems... It is necessary to revise the video. It should have minimal backlash and a flat working surface. To check, you can use a ruler or other similar object of the required width. It also makes sense to check for the presence of grease in the bearing. If its quantity is small, it should be added. If the video is of poor quality, then it must be replaced. It is practically impossible to repair the bearing, let alone the roller surface.
6. Damaged stud thread... There are two options to remedy this situation. The easiest is to use a sword with the correct diameter for turning internal threads and / or a dies for turning a similar thread on a stud. Another option is more labor intensive and consists in completely dismantling the block in order to restore the specified thread. This method is used if for some reason it is impossible to use the sword.

   

   Installing washers under the roller

7. Roller Stud Bending... It is almost impossible to fix the stud mechanically. Sometimes (but not in all cases, and it depends on the degree of curvature of the stud and the place of its curvature), you can try to unscrew the stud and screw it back in, but with the other side. If the curvature is small, then this solution can be crowned with success. However, in most cases, shims are used. Consider this point separately, since most motorists consider this method a real panacea if it eats up the timing belt from the engine side or from the opposite side.

Using shims when the belt slips



Washers can be made independently, for example, from the body of aluminum beer cans, coffee cans, or use ready-made factory ones. The main thing is that the washers are the same size as the spacer ring installed between the block and the eccentric of the tension roller. There are two options. The first uses factory washers. The thickness and quantity are selected empirically. The use of this method is ambiguous, since the washers are flat and, accordingly, the contact plane of the roller will remain parallel. However, this method helped some motorists.



1 - if the belt slides towards the engine, 2 - if the belt slides away from the engine

Another method is to make your own crescent-shaped washers. The number and width of washers are also selected empirically. The use of such washers is more expedient, since they can be used to change the angle of inclination of the pin and roller so that it forms a normal with respect to the plane of the cylinder block housing.

The washer must be installed according to the diagram shown in the figure. In particular, if the timing belt slips towards the engine, then the washer / washers should be installed closer to the center of the block. If the belt moves from the engine, then on the contrary, closer to the edge of the block. When installing washers, it is recommended to use it, which will keep them from sliding to the side with or without load.

Do not overdo it so that when the engine is running, the belt does not "go" in the opposite direction, opposite to the one where it slid before. The main thing is that the belt runs evenly across the entire width and does not slide off the roller.



Washers installed

Finally, I would like to note that in rare cases, the cause of the belt shifting to one side or the other and its eating up may be caused not by one, but by several of the reasons described above. As a rule, the method of using shims is universal, and can save the situation in even the most “neglected” cases. However, it makes sense to revise the belt, roller and pump in order to identify shortcomings in their work, and, if necessary, replace the listed nodes. This will save you from future problems with these details.

Replacing the timing belt (gas distribution mechanism) on eight valve motors in front-wheel drive cars, at first glance, does not present any difficulty. However, very often the new belt starts to slide off the camshaft gear. This will rub the edge against the tension roller collar. Like any other VAZ car repair, these problems can be solved in the garage, without the help of a hundred.

The first reason that the belt drives to the block is its constriction. If the structure is not uniform, then it will also begin to move along the timing gears. It's easy to check if the quality of the product is to blame. If he moves in one direction, and after his turn, starts to drive in the opposite direction, then he obviously asks for a replacement.

The belt can also shift due to a poor-quality tension roller, which can lead to knocking of valves. Most commercially available rollers use a single row bearing. At the slightest play in it, the working surface of the roller gets a certain inclination relative to the axis of rotation, and it slides towards the inclination. The conical or oval working surface of the roller, the body of which is molded from plastic, also promotes sliding. Therefore, when buying a tension roller, you need to choose them with a metal housing, or with a double-row bearing from a renowned manufacturer.

Installing a water pump skewed relative to the cylinder block due to a large amount of sealant under its gasket and uneven tightening of the mounting bolts, as well as a large play in the pump bearings, also lead to displacement of the timing belt during engine operation. If the water pump is changed at the same time, work must be done carefully. Remembering the consequences of incorrect pump installation.

If the idler pin is not fully tightened into the head of the block, it can cause the timing belt to move and wear. The pulled thread of the stud in the body of the cylinder head (cylinder head) leads to the same consequences. When replacing, you need to pay attention to these points. To tighten the tension roller nut, you must use a torque wrench, adjusting its response to a force of 42 Nm.

Motors with a mileage of about 100,000 km. and more, as a rule, the timing gear on the crankshaft is worn out. Gear wear, in turn, leads again to timing displacement. When the belt begins to drive towards the cylinder block due to a worn out KV gear (crankshaft), it even happens that an edge abrades the head of the oil pump mounting bolt located nearby. With the above mentioned mileage, you need to be ready to replace the gear along with the belt.

Such difficulties can be expected when performing such a simple replacement operation. You need to be prepared for them.

If the timing belt slips towards the engine, then this is one of the reasons for the wear of the timing belt. The belt seems to be "devoured". The sliding effect occurs as a result of misalignment between the pulleys of the parts that make up the timing. In the vast majority of cases, the tension roller is to blame. The technical documentation, which is attached by the manufacturer to each car brand, has its own tightening torques for threaded connections. For the tension roller mounting bolt, this value is 4.2 N * m. But such is the Russian mentality, few people look at the technical documentation. Most don't even know what it is. Even the repair of the engine for our craftsmen gradually turned into a tightening "at random" with the help of a bunch of lever pipes of different lengths.

Let us explain what the "fault" of the tension roller manifests itself in. As you know, it is mounted on a threaded rod. When the owner of the car changes the timing belt, he does not even think about the moment with which it is necessary to tighten the bolt of its fastening after tensioning the belt. We always tighten everything with all our might. It is not right. If too much force is applied, the pin is bent slightly towards the cylinder block. But this is enough for the timing belt to start sliding towards the engine. Of course, you can do with replacing the hairpin and everything will fall into place. By the way, this method is the only one for fixing the stud, which is bent so that the belt eats up almost completely. The option that we describe below will no longer work for troubleshooting a severely curved stud.

Digging through the old garbage, or go to the store and buy a can of Coca Cola. The one that is made of aluminum. Its thickness is approximately 0.1 mm. We cut out 2 - 3 washers under the diameter of the stud, or rather their half. We put them under the right side of the tension roller. Attention! Place washers only on the spacer ring, otherwise all work will be in vain. Usually, installing two half washers is enough to stop the timing belt from sliding towards the engine.

Set the valve timing, tighten the belt and start the engine. Visually check the belt for slipping. We recommend doing this every 1000 km after the procedure. If the belt continues to slip, place another half washer. If nothing could be fixed with the washer lining, then the reason is no longer in the tension roller. Or simply the tensioner stud is so crooked that the problem can only be fixed by replacing it.

All car parts can “age” and wear out over time. Each of the car owners, sooner or later, is faced with a situation when it is necessary to change a spare part. The slip of the rubber ring is very common, especially among Vaz owners. We will find out what the reasons for this are.

Creep reasons

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As a rule, the complications of an eight-valve internal combustion engine of 1.5 liters after a scheduled duty change of a timing rubber product that has "plowed" the issued resource is familiar to many owners. It consists in the fact that the new part now jumps off, which inevitably leads to its breakage. If on such motors, with a rupture of the rubber ring, mutual collision of the valve-piston elements were observed, overhaul would not have been avoided in any way.

But on a 16-valve unit, the results of a timing ring rupture are much more sad. In this case, one stop of the motor will not end.

On the other hand, why does the belt slide off after all? And this happens both in the direction of the power plant and vice versa. Well, how much can you change the belt, it's time to find the cause and eradicate it.

Reason 1: the culprit strap

The fact that these days the quality of new parts does not stand up to criticism does not surprise anyone. And it would be correct to say that the main factor of jumping off is just the unoriginal and poor quality of the timing belt. It is no secret that a rubber element with an uneven structure, which tends to stretch in certain places in different ways, is no longer an option. Such a belt will always be skewed, albeit imperceptible to the eye, but extremely negatively affecting the work of the part.

Note. You can check the curvature of the belt as follows. It is necessary to turn it over on the drive, and then diagnose the operation in this position. If the belt starts to slide in the other direction, the problem is in the belt itself.

The manufacturer's mistake, who made the product defect, gives us a belt with different stiffness in width. As a result, the rubber part under the influence of the force "floats" in the direction of less elasticity. And this happens almost immediately after installation.

Reason 2: pump

The second common cause is related to the coolant pump shaft play. In the people this problem is usually called "pump kick". It is quite easy to determine the presence of backlash: you need to remove the belt and check the pump gear for rolling. If there is a backlash, then the pump will have to be replaced, since sooner or later it will completely fail, if this has not already happened.

Often the pump is made simply "crooked". Maybe the turner was under this case, or something else, but this really happens. In addition, problems often begin after replacing the pump with a new one. In this case, it is recommended to check how the block mating surface is cleaned. It is possible that when installing a new pump, the mating zone was poorly cleaned of pieces of the old gasket. As a result, the pump misplaced, skewed.

Finally, pump bearings can wear out over time, leading to operational problems.

Reason 3: NTZH roller

The third common reason is the tension roller or NTZh. Being a high-precision device, it does not accept any deviations, even the smallest. The correct operation of the NTZH roller depends on the accuracy of the characteristics of its components. In the case of belt slipping, everything is simple: if the NTZh roller is initially curved, it will move the timing rubber ring sideways, thereby worn out the edge of the rubber part.

In addition, the most common cause of belt slippage problems associated with the NTR roller is bending of the retention pin. This happens, again, during the "amateurish" replacement of the roller, when the tightening is not at the proper level. Any specialist will confirm that it is impossible to tighten the eccentric nut "from the heart", since the hairpin can easily bend, and any discrepancy, as mentioned above, negatively affects the sensitive roller.

It is almost impossible to straighten this hairpin. On the other hand, there is an option to turn it out of the block and then put it back on.

But there is another effective way. It is necessary to cut out washers the size of a spacer ring from a tin can, and then put them between the block and the eccentric of the NTZH roller.

This method will help to resolve complications with the dismount of the rubber timing ring:

• If the belt slips towards the motor, it is recommended to place homemade washers closer to the block.
• If the belt slips away from the motor, it is advisable to place the washers closer to the edge.

The thickness of the washers is selected depending on the situation. If you need to shrink the washer, it is simply cut into two halves with a crescent moon. If you increase it, they fold it in half.

It will be useful to know that some car owners recommend putting an old-style video on the Vases NTZh. It has a different design compared to the latest NTZH samples.

Of course, the problem with belt slipping cannot be solved by replacing the NTZH roller, but it will be easier to determine belt wear. Let us remind you that the old-style roller has a metal side, while the modern one has a plastic one. It turns out that the old-style NTZh roller will eat up the belt more noticeably than a part with a plastic rim.

In some cases, a snag with a rubber timing ring can be resolved by pulling the NTJ towards the camshaft. In this case, a large break point will form on the top of the ring, but this can adversely affect the correct operating conditions for the entire HRM mechanism.

It would be more correct to pay attention to the quality of the product when replacing the NTZ roller with a new one. As mentioned above, modern products not only fall behind the old samples with the material of the side, but are also made on a 1-row ball bearing. In addition, the surface of NTZH rollers can be far from ideal: a cone, oval, and even steppedness are often encountered.

And of course, it is necessary to carefully check the NTZH roller for play (must be scanty) and on the surface without protrusions or irregularities.

Finally, during installation, check if the roller bearings are lubricated. Do not be surprised, in our time they can save even on this.

Original solution

In most cases, adjusting the timing belt involves adjusting the spacer washer installed under the NTZh roller. Experienced craftsmen and motorists are advised to inspect this very washer, to check whether it is installed with the reverse side.

Indeed, the amateurism of the service station workers in some cases simply enrages. Practicing mechanics even for several years may simply not notice the gluing on the spacer washer pointing to the correct side. Yes, it is applied with acrylic varnish and may not be noticeable, but if you look closely, you can see it.

What is the function of the spacer washer? The main reason for the slipping of the belt, as described above, is not the misalignment of the crankshaft, but the initial unevenness of the working surface. Knowing this, the designers and mechanics at AvtoVAZ initially came up with the idea of \u200b\u200baligning the seat with a remote washer. And they put it on acrylic glue.

All this is understandable, but that's why AvtoVAZ couldn't solve the problem with the internal combustion engine in some other way? It turns out that there is also our inherent laziness and unwillingness to work to the end.

According to the standard, all engines assembled by AvtoVAZ must be checked on the conveyor. If a problem with belt slippage is detected, the power plants are sent for revision to special workshops, where Uncle Vasya and Uncle Kolya simply, for the sake of saving time, put remote washers. Simple and ingenious, but what will happen to the engine after a long run, when the belt is replaced, the manufacturer no longer cares. The main thing is to provide a factory warranty, and an obviously defective engine can be imagined as fully working. These are the pies.

Therefore, if auto mechanics are struggling and racking their brains over the problem of belt slippage, and cannot come up with anything, it is quite possible that the engine is just from the category of defective and modified by Uncle Vasya.

The problem is also solved simply: the washer, firstly, is placed on the correct side, and, secondly, it is sharpened on a grindstone or grows on one side. If you do everything correctly, the belt will run clearly and exactly along the middle of the flywheels the first time, and will not jump anywhere.

Choosing a quality timing belt

Often, the problem of belt slipping is associated with the poor quality of the product itself. For this reason, knowing how to choose the right belt will be of great benefit.

First of all, it should be noted that today there are several popular manufacturers of belts. Their products are worth buying, but again not thoughtlessly, but carefully checking, since no one ruled out fakes and marriages.

Note. If for other hinged systems of the car you can choose a belt and a simpler one, then for the GRS mechanism only high-quality, good, albeit for a lot of money. This is an axiom that every vehicle driver should know. It is probably not worth writing about what troubles can begin due to a broken belt at the engine.

So, let's go directly to choosing a good timing belt.

Contetag

Belts of the "Kontiteg" company are supplied to almost all countries of the world, and the main consumers of the products of this company are such giants of the automotive industry as Volkswagen, Fiat, Opel and others.

As you know, recently Contitech purchased several subsidiaries in the Middle Kingdom, which speaks of the expansion of the sphere of influence in Asia and throughout the world. Today, it is in China that practically everything is done, you just need to be able to distinguish the official Chinese factories from the "left".

So, in the near future it is expected that Kontiteg products with a Chinese logo will appear on the market, but this is unlikely to affect the quality.

Today timing belts from Kontiteg are considered the best for installation not only in foreign cars, but also on domestic cars. They are reliable, rarely break, and serve for a long time.

This does not mean at all that by putting a belt from Koniteteg, you can forget about the service life and proper care. Despite the high reliability of products of this brand, if the operating rules are not followed, problems cannot be avoided.

Daiko

The oldest manufacturer of motor belts. In addition to timing belts, Dayco Aftermarket also produces good quality NTZh rollers, various attachments and pumps.

All products fully comply with the standards of the giant automakers.

Interestingly, Daiko supplies its products not only to primary markets, but also provides secondary sites. This is done to please the repair needs of car owners of different social status.

The manufacturer's “secondary market” is so developed that it is divided into two geographical zones. Products are sold separately to North America, and separately to other countries.

Many car owners prefer belts from other companies, bypassing Daiko products, for only one reason - they are bribed by advertising. The same "Kontiteg" takes a higher position in comparison with "Daiko" on the competitive ladder, not because of the quality of its products (it is good, there are no words), but thanks to a powerful advertising campaign.

But "Daiko" takes others. His products, he believes, do not need PR. Indeed, among the elite, this particular manufacturer is considered better, despite the second place in the world ranking.

It should be noted that Daiko periodically updates its technologies, switching to more advanced techniques. As a result, the belts of this company are always distinguished by the highest parameters of wear resistance.

For some reason, Daiko products are not very popular in Russia. Most likely, this is from ignorance. Or maybe it was affected by the negative quality of the products, which are also available.

In addition, Daiko belts are often counterfeited, which also negatively affects the consumer / producer relationship.

Distinguishing a quality Daiko belt from a fake is, in principle, not so difficult. Usually, they look at the packaging: if it is light blue or dark blue, it must be belts of American or Italian production.

It is also characteristic that the original Daiko belts are covered with a special white film on the seamy side (as a rule, they do not have fakes of this film).

And some general tips:

• The belts should not be too stiff.
• Unpleasant odor should not come from the products.
• The marking must be clear, not blurry.

Video about why the belt comes off

We hope this article was helpful to the reader. In any case, you have learned the main reasons why the timing belt comes off, and what can be done to fix this problem. Of particular interest is the adjustment of the belt using the spacer washer. We also recommend that you pay attention to a video review presenting the theory of internal combustion engines: why the belt jumps off or tears.

Such a problem as slipping of the timing belt from the place of fixation is common, and this is most often due to poor-quality materials of the belt itself and its constituent elements. Below we will tell you how to avoid such a situation, and how to prevent the occurrence of undesirable consequences of such a breakdown.

The video shows how the timing belt slips on the VAZ-2114:

Gas distribution system VAZ-2114

It will be no secret to anyone that over time, any part will wear out and require replacement, for some this period is measured in hundreds, for others tens of thousands of kilometers.

Timing device diagram

As for the gas distribution system, and specifically its belt, it should be replaced at the end of its operational life, or if it has visible damage.

However, it should be noted that when, such a malfunction may occur, such as slipping of the belt from its place, which in turn can lead to galling (wear - approx.) Of the edge of the belt, which in the future will only contribute to its wear, breakage and regular replacement.

We hasten to please you

The VAZ-2114 car was equipped only with a volume of 1.5 and 1.6 liters, which may indicate that when the timing belt breaks, pistons with valves do not meet and the latter does not bend , which certainly has a beneficial effect not only on subsequent repairs, but also on the car owner's wallet.

Where does the belt slip and why?

Note! The belt can slide both in the direction of the engine and in the opposite direction from it.

This happens regardless of how exactly in the middle of the gear it was installed, since the reason for this is not only the belt itself, but also the elements and mechanisms accompanying it. In order to solve this problem, you must use the methods described below.

Timing belt

In modern times, on the market for auto parts, there are more and more cases of fakes and low quality products.

Top is the original timing belt, and the bottom is a fake

Specifically touching upon the moment with the timing belt, we can talk about its uneven structure, increased elasticity (the ability to stretch too much - approx.), As well as the presence of significant differences between the two edges (skew - approx.).

Determine the degree of straightness of the newly installed belt, it is possible only on the mounted mechanism.

And, if even slight deviations are observed after starting the engine, then the reason is in the belt.

The belt is dressed and stretched

water pump

Timing belt slipping can happen due to pump play (pump - approx.). , it is enough just to take the gear wheel by the working surface with your hand, and if there is even the slightest backlash, the unit must be changed. In this case, read the material: ""

Leaks on the cylinder block from the timing side means that the pump is out of order

Tension roller

The next element that must be diagnosed when the timing belt slips is the tension roller.

While this is a seemingly simple detail, deviations from its performance can significantly affect its overall performance. In simple terms, the curved roller will not be able to provide the belt with straight motion , wearing out and leading to him aside.

The diagram is clear and understandable.

Another reason for discussions on popular forums about the belt pulling to the side is the installation of rollers of different samples, because the analogue has a different, slightly modified design.

The difference between the rollers

The difference between these two parts is that the old side has a different shape, made of metal, while the new one is made of plastic.

Therefore, as the theory shows, a spare part made of plastic causes much less friction than an analogue made of metal.

There are two types of rollers.

Other ways to adjust the roller

When viewed from the side of standard and proper timing belt operation, the tension roller should be exactly in the middle of the pump and camshaft gears. However, some owners of the VAZ-2114, in order to avoid slipping of the belt, thus, the belt, receiving the greatest bend in its upper part, is stronger fixed in place.

All components of the tension roller for the VAZ-2114.

Not a clever way to adjust the belt

There is another simple method that helps the owners of the VAZ-2114 to avoid slipping the belt by adjusting the position of the tension roller.

In order to fix it in this position, it is necessary to make a blank in advance in the form half washers made of aluminum (an aluminum can works well - approx.), which must be fixed between the spacer ring and the cylinder block.

Such a need can arise only when the distance ring has differences in its thickness. You can take its measurements yourself, using only a caliper.

Camshaft and crankshaft

New camshaft gear

Also, judging by the numerous reviews of "our tubers", it is possible to exclude the facts of slipping of the timing belt after replacing the camshaft and crankshaft gears.

However, such a procedure can bring results if the car's mileage on old parts is at least 100 thousand kilometers. Otherwise, such a replacement may not bring the desired result.

Rust on the crankshaft gear

Rusted crankshaft gear

This situation arises as a result of the lack of dirt protection. The gear rusts and does not work correctly.

After any work

After carrying out work with the timing belt, many motorists and car service technicians advise to observe the state in which it is, periodically opening the hood and diagnosing its condition. But at the same time it is necessary to remove the plastic protection!

Because it is in this way that you can notice in time the defects that appear, the facts of belt slipping and other malfunctions, which, of course, will have a beneficial effect on the state of the gas distribution system as a whole.

conclusions

As you have seen for yourself, the reason for the slipping of the timing belt on the VAZ-2114 can only be solved by replacing, therefore, when choosing a similar spare part in a store, it is best to pay attention to a trusted manufacturer who has proven itself only from the best side.