Hello everyone who knows the Ena and who is not yet familiar.
Let's start.
Prehistory.
I when I had already taken to slip on the cold with the 3rd on the 4th - standard history. Then at all speeds and then not only on the cold. In general, so I traveled a thousand 50-70, put it on the pedal on time to let go ...
SDOKHDA ... stopped turning on the speeds to hot and fly when driving.
Without a long time thinking, I ordered a contractor from Novosiba.
I changed, I went ... barely noticeable slippers were also present and also began to progress. And also came the logical end. On the box, the pupil is 10-15 ... I do not remember - the oil changed when installing and not at all for a long time ...
The history of death is the same - the speeds are flying out and not turning ones not one. (on cold everything is fine, but not long)
I thought that it was no longer thought that it was no longer sense and expensive ... 15 Corob, 2-5 delivery, 3-4 oil ...
In general, it was decided - repair!
Start
A little information
From the boots, I did not get into it, it was scared as everyone. The magical and terrible word "automatic" ... reading I realized that if someone in the garage could and I can! Moreover, everyone has only positive emotions. Cheered up.
Everything is mostly referred to - I did with the Slavar on the English manual (((I am weak inget, I also have a little desire to work with a dictionary, I was looking for something in Russian!
In general, he found one more than a detailed report, but it seemed not to be quite detailed, because there are many situations, and the photos are not rich.
But still he is respect and respect, because it is always more difficult for people than those who looked as they do.
I set myself the task to match his efforts and add your own to be more detailed instructions.
Why We have all the boxes are old, someone else has more lively people who have already died and do not know what to do.
Information for reflection
Cost S4TA - Cable (Pressure Pressure Management) 15-20T.R. Delivery 3T.r. Oil 4t.r. - Total 22-27t.r.
Cost MDMA - 25-40T.R. Well, further understandable
The cost of work in the garage - master whale (full Remkomplekt - 5500.r + 300r delivery from Moscow) + 4t.r. Oil is total - up to 10000r. (This is a minimum one - because if you need to change bearings or elements of hydromozing ITP, then the price is growing)
The difference - after repair as many write the box works as new and you already know exactly in what condition you have insides - the same filter (you can add another 500r to a new one more)
Manual Principle is also suitable for MDLA, MDMA, M4TA (Orthia, CR-V, StepWGN, S-MX) as Remkomplekt.
Once again I want to remind you that in combine my efforts with the manual that flies on the Internet (there will be photos and text from it)
Preparation for repair
"TRANSTEC" company bought for 5.500 rubles (in the set - gaskets of the body and the transmission covers, sets of steel and friction discs "ALTO", Rubber "NOK / FREUDENBERG", so-called O-Rings, glazed for incoming and coming out of the shaft box ).
- Prepare 2 ATF-Z1 canisters, about 4,000 rubles.
-The special toasters: the primary shaft block, the puller for the glands and bearings, compressors of the springs of the friction clutch. Without a garage with a pit or lift, too, do not do.
- I prepared the bottle of carbcliner, a bunch of clean rags. The pipe near the meter also does not prevent (for the hub nut), of course, a set of normal keys, heads, gates, extension cords are needed.
It is also recommended to stock packaging bags for garbage, and all the nodes separately with the corresponding fastener wrapping (you can use stretch film), then you do not have to be confused with bolts and nuts. Print the necessary pages from the manual and from the catalog are constantly needed.
Almost everything is more convenient to do on the manual!
Removal
- We cover the old oil, for this we climb under the car and we are looking at the box with a square with a square - insert the knobs there (square 10mm) and turn around, if you didn't turn around there, you can not get there, do not shove it there that it fell to the aluminum and add a hassle. Under the pit can also use the pipe for the lever.
Capacity for drain I used an old canister from under the oil to estimate the condition of the oil (made a piece 2000 above)

Color in the jar is dark burgundy, and when the thin trickle flows the light red, and when the red it is too red ... in general, the bisak (((
-Not housing air filter And the air pipe to the throttle.
-Turn all wiring and remove to the side

-The consume the crescent cover of the hydrotransformer and the cover of the control cable and disconnect it

Now the speed can be switched under the machine without problems rotating switch)
-Translate pants ( exhaust pipe From the exhaust manifold on three nuts to a catalyst on two bolts with springs) Without forgetting to disconnect the lambda sensor chip and two nuts supporting pants support.
- We disconnect the supporting support (amplifier) \u200b\u200bof the box and the engine on three bolts
- Over the eight bolts fixing the round leading plate to the hydrotranspornator

Disconnect Kardan

We take a multifaceted key to 10 and unscrew the cardan to get to the tight bolts - we switch the speed to Non-Non (2 slot) and move a little machine.
Disconnect in the middle not necessarily - pull on yourself and put down.

Do not forget to unscrew - suspended semi-axes from the engine on three bolts.
Rear mount with body
Nizhny bolt to 17 near the mounting of the rear pillow (the one that connect the engine and the box)
Weaken all the remaining bolts
Starter can also take off
Remove the front right bottom pillow.
We raise the front wheels, remove them, unscrew the wheel nuts and remove the bottom balloons - it is enough to pull the semi-axes out of the box and they did not interfere with the removal.

Fix the box from above for a special eyelet, engine back
Surround all Corboards / Dvig bolts
Slowly unscrew the top box of the box - it will start dropping
Then rope slowly go down