You should immediately look for the cause of the malfunction, because the supply of all electrical equipment with current is at risk, as well as charging the battery.

As you know, with a working generator, the battery does not require charging for many months and years, while retaining at least 60% of the charge. That is, the battery with a capacity of 55 Ah, with which dozens are usually equipped, is replenished with current due to the operation of a working generator.

Generator types

Most often, VAZ 2110 (with carburetor engine) is equipped with a generator 9402.3701. On VAZ, the injector is 3202.3771 (with a poly V-belt). But in any case, the problems are the same, we will consider them.

Major problems

If the generator starts to junk, then the main causes of the malfunction should be looked for either in the on-board network, or these are problems of the generator itself. If the generator gives a charge, but not enough, then, perhaps, it was "loaded" too much, putting in addition to the standard electrical equipment many other gadgets, and it is already working at the limit of its capabilities.

Painfully our motorists fell in love with tuning the VAZ 2110, adding, for example, speaker power, amplifying the light, etc. Some people in such cases change the battery, for example, put it with a capacity of 70 Ah, instead of the usual VAZ one for 55 Ah.

But if at first this can help, then over time such a battery will sit down even faster, since a regular generator will not be able to fully charge it, it will not have enough power for this.

Reasons for discharge battery detailed in the following material:

troubleshooting

To pinpoint the source of the generator problem, you need to do a basic check. If you do not have "additional" energy consumers, you can immediately look for generator malfunctions, if any, turn them off all for a while. Moreover, do not turn it off, but disconnect it from the car.

Verification plan:

1. Measure the current return on a cold car, at a time when it is not working and all its life support systems are turned off. It will be ideal if there is no return at all. But this happens very rarely. On almost every VAZ 2110, somewhere due to insufficient contact, local short circuit, etc. a small return is still observed. But - just a small one, and not one in which the battery can sit down during a night of parking;
2. If everything is fine, no current leakage is observed, or they are scanty, the battery is not discharged, reconnect all those devices that you (it does not matter, independently or with the help of hired specialists) installed on the car on your own initiative. Repeat the same check. If it turns out that the current is actively leaking, it means that the reason is not in the battery and is not connected with the generator, it is the device not provided by the designers of the VAZ 2110 that is to blame;
3. But if even then no recoil is found, we proceed to a thorough examination of the generator. And here possible malfunctions quite a few:
   there is insufficient contact between the brushes and the rotor rings;
   there is a break in the excitation winding;
   possible interturn short circuit directly in the coil of the field winding. In this case, the generator heats up and hums;
   the excitation winding can close to the rotor housing;
   breaks can also occur in the stator phase winding;
   the stator can be shorted to the housing;
   possible short circuit "plus" on the body;
   in the rectifier unit can break through diodes;
   mechanical failures are also not the last on this list.

Now let's consider all the above-mentioned generator malfunctions in more detail.

Weak contact

Contact can become weak when the brushes and rotor slip rings are dirty or oily. Another culprit is the shrinkage of the springs pressing on the brushes, as well as the hanging of the brushes themselves. These disadvantages can increase the excitation resistance and even interrupt the circuit.

Usually wiping with a cloth dampened with gasoline helps. Strongly worn brushes must be replaced with new ones, at the same time the springs must be checked. If the rings are oxidized, glass abrasive cleaning will help.

Broken winding

If the excitation winding is cut off, then there is no battery charging. To determine this, it is often enough to put your hand on the generator. At a break, it heats up. For an accurate check, you need to disconnect the end of the excitation winding from the brush, to it, and connect the terminal Ш of the generator (through a voltmeter or light bulb) the battery wires.

If there is a break, then the voltmeter needle will not deviate, and the light will not light up. To find which of the coils does not allow the generator to work, connect the wires from the battery to each separately. Finally, they check the soldering and the terminals of the coils. If the break is internal, the coil must be replaced, with external soldering helps.

Turn-to-turn closure

In any of the field winding coils, an interturn short circuit may occur. In this case, the winding heats up, the excitation current increases. To determine the short circuit, it is not enough to note which of them is heated, you need to measure the resistance of each coil with an ohmmeter.

Short circuit on the rotor case

With this malfunction, the entire field winding is closed, and the generator simply does not work. Most often it closes to the body in places where the ends of the winding are brought out to the rotor slip rings. Check this with a 220 V light bulb.

One wire is connected to any slip ring, the other to the rotor core or its shaft. If there is a short circuit, the light will turn on. You won't go with such a generator, so you need to either carry out insulation or replace the winding.

Short circuit in the stator phase winding

Most often, a short circuit occurs when the insulation between the turns in the stator coils is destroyed. In this case, the generator is very hot, it does not charge the battery insufficiently, since this happens only for very high revs crankshaft.

Stator closes to housing

As with other short circuits, there are disagreements with the generator: it gets very hot, hums, its power decreases. Compliance is checked with a 220 V lamp. One terminal is placed on the core, the other on one of the winding terminals. If there is a short circuit, the lamp lights up. Repair consists of replacing defective coils.

Clamp "plus" closes to the body

This malfunction not only leads to severe overheating of the generator, but also to diode breakdown in the rectifier unit. Which, in turn, causes the battery to close. It can not only be very discharged, but also fail.

Mechanical faults

The first place among the mechanical problems of the VAZ 2110 is occupied by the stretching of the belt. In this case, the generator pulley is usually very hot. In addition, there is insufficient battery charging. Also inspect everything for poor contact, breakage, etc.

Therefore, regardless of who, you have a carburetor car, or an injector, it is better not to joke with the generator, and if you find faults, you quickly respond to them.

The battery is the only voltage source when starting the engine. As you might guess, if it is inoperative, starting the engine will be problematic. In this article, we will explain why car generator does not charge the battery and what to do in such cases.

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Lack of charging process

The fact that the generator does not charge the battery can be indicated by a diode indicator located on the instrument panel. Typically, this icon is depicted in the form of the battery itself, and when the electrical part on a functioning engine is working normally, it usually does not light up. You can see this indicator on the dashboard after you turn the key in the lock to position I. At this moment, all devices are diagnosed, so the appearance of the indicator at this moment is a completely normal situation. In the event that the indicator remains on while driving, this may indicate that the generator is not charging the battery.

Accordingly, the driver needs to solve such a problem as quickly as possible, because otherwise it can lead to more serious consequences than just the indicator that appears on the tidy. Sometimes the generator set does not charge the battery due to the inoperability of the latter. Moreover, it will not be possible to somehow solve such a malfunction except by replacing the battery. But sometimes it can be due to wrong work and a generator.

Causes and remedies

If you have the opportunity to borrow someone else's battery for testing, then you can try to put it on the car instead of your own. Of course, this battery must be fully operational. Actually, in this way you can find out what the cause of the problem is - in the battery or in the generator. Below we will consider the reasons for such a malfunction.

Internal state of the battery

Usually, the reason why the generator cannot charge the battery is the sulfation of the latter's plates. In this case, the surface of the plates may be covered with salts - partially or completely - which prevent the battery from being charged. In the event that the degree of coverage of the plates is small, then, in principle, you can always try to restore the battery's performance. However, if the destruction process is already irreversible, it will be necessary to replace the device.

As for the restoration of the battery structure from sulfation, this process may take more than one day, and the result and quality of restoration cannot be guaranteed. This means that you may need a new battery over time anyway. The resuscitation procedure, as a rule, begins when there are no signs of swelling, mechanical damage, cracks, etc. on the battery. That is, the body of the device must be intact.

But it should be borne in mind that the external state is not always a guarantee that the result will suit you. There are cans inside the structure, in which the plates can break off, which ultimately leads to a short circuit. If so, then there are no other options other than buying a new battery.

Terminals

Occasionally, the indicator light may appear while driving the car. At this point, do not panic, as the reason can be quite commonplace. When hitting a bump or into a hole, the contact can simply fly off the battery, especially if the terminal was poorly screwed. If so, then you just need to put it back in place and tighten it harder.

Terminal problems can occur if they oxidize where they connect to the terminal. To solve this problem, the oxidation just needs to be cleaned out. To do this, you need fine-grit sandpaper. In the process, you need to be as careful as possible, because you can accidentally cut off the lead part of the lead, and this is unacceptable. If you erase more layer than necessary, the terminal will not hold well and will begin to subside on every bump (video author - Avramenko Garage).

Generator belt

What kind of charge should the generator give and for what reasons does the overcharge occur or the inability to charge the battery? Quite often, the problem lies in the knot's strap - with a weak tension, the belt will begin to slip on the shaft, at the moment the knot will not be able to supply voltage to the system. The battery is switched over and the charged battery changes from an energy consumer to a consumption source that is gradually discharged.

Diagnostics of the degree of strap tension can be carried out with the motor turned off. If the internal combustion engine is disabled, you can try to tighten it if necessary. But it should be borne in mind that slippage can be caused not only by poor tension, but also by wear of the profile. This problem can only be solved by replacing the strap.

A wet or wet shaft can lead to the impossibility of transferring rotation - the strap will slide along the surface without effort. For the battery to charge properly, the pulley must be dry, so it will only be enough to dry it. It is rather difficult to determine slippage, in which case the strap may break.

The cause of the problem may be oxidation of the wires on the generating set at the joints. If you notice a white coating, then, as mentioned above, it can be removed with sandpaper. Visually inspect for wire breaks or burnt contacts. If the wire is burnt out, this may be indicated by a characteristic smell (the author of the video is VAZ 2101-2107 REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE).

Monitoring the rest of the charging system

To determine why the generator is overcharging or not charging the battery in principle, a multimeter may be required. With the help of a tester, you can measure the voltage on the batteries in two modes. With the engine off, the charge parameter should be in the range of 12.5-12.7 volts, with the engine running - 13.5-14 volts. If these indicators are less when the internal combustion engine is on, this may indicate problems in the operation of the diode bridge or brush assembly. By the way, the brushes can wear off, so they need to be changed periodically.

If the relay is the cause of the overcharge or lack of charge, it can be eliminated by replacing or re-soldering the diodes. If the diodes are re-soldered, it is necessary to select the devices that are closest to technical specifications... Otherwise, they may overheat.

Generator check

The reason the battery is not charging may be because the generator is not working. If the vehicle has a long mileage, it can lead to rotor wear or wear of rotating elements. As a result, this can lead to skewing of parts within the structure and lack of rotation. If the generator is jammed, then it will need to be replaced; repairs in this case will not give results. In addition, the cause may be an open circuit inside the mechanism. Such a malfunction can only be identified with the help of an electrician.

In general, most of the problems associated with a lack of charge can be solved on your own. To do this, it is enough only to properly monitor the operation of the unit and devote time to diagnosing the battery and generator in the event of a corresponding indicator on the tidy.

Such a malfunction of the on-board electrical / network can be caused by various reasons. In principle, eliminating it on its own is not difficult, and even an amateur can cope with this work. The main thing is to have a clear idea of \u200b\u200bwhere, what and how to check if the generator does not charge the battery.

Electrical diagrams of various cars differ in engineering solution, sometimes quite strongly. Therefore, below are general recommendations concerning the main, most typical reasons for the lack of charging on the car battery. But if you understand the principle of troubleshooting and know the device, the equipment of your car, then it will not be difficult to eliminate it, regardless of the modification of the car. Moreover, all the problems are almost identical, no matter what type of generator is installed to power the on-board network.

Lack of charging the car battery - probable reasons

External faults

The search for a defective area (element) must begin with diagnosing the electrical circuit and checking the condition of all of its component parts... Practice shows that the generator itself does not fail so often, and the lack of charging current is caused, as a rule, by external factors. In addition, it is much easier to detect and eliminate such defects, and it does not take much time.

Oxidation of contacts

One of the most common and simplest malfunctions. First of all, you should check the condition of the terminals of the suitable wires and on the battery itself. Even if the owner of the car systematically maintains the battery, this does not mean that everything is in order with the contacts. In addition, at the same time, it is useful to check their tightening. Often the lack of charging is caused by the fact that the terminals of the wires connected to the battery "walk". The result is poor contact or an open charge circuit.

Burnout of the security element

The fuse box is another "weak" point of the car, and this is understandable. It rarely looks into it, although there are contact groups there too. It so happens that the reason is in him. Sometimes it is enough just to turn the fuse link in the seat and the malfunction is eliminated. At the same time, the appropriate fuse should be checked for integrity. If there is no electrical circuit of the car at hand, and it is not clear which of the entire row is responsible for charging the battery, then all the protective elements located in this block must be checked.

Drive belt defect

The simplest reason is insufficient tension. Therefore, when the engine is running, it slips on the pulley and does not rotate the generator rotor. The remedy is clear - make a tightening. Well, if there is a break, then there is only one way out - replacing the belt.

Malfunction in the voltage regulator

This device, depending on the year of manufacture (before or after 1996, for most domestic cars), has an internal circuit. Serviceability is checked using a signal lamp, the leads from which are connected to certain points in the circuit. It makes no sense to describe the whole process (although it is not complicated), since the method and result depend on the modification of the generator and the manufacturer.

If there is a suspicion of improper operation of the regulator, it is better to contact a service workshop, since self-diagnosis is often mistaken. Moreover, if there is no practice of detecting a defect in this device.

Generator malfunctions

Extreme brush wear

It is not difficult to determine visually. The solution is clear - a replacement. As an option - their pollution. In this case, it is enough to carry out the simplest maintenance, and the generator will again charge the battery.

Broken drive bearing

In this case, the generator must be dismantled and repaired.

Diode bridge defective

If he is exactly to blame, then you will have to change the entire assembly (depending on the type of generator).

Winding problems

It is rather difficult to determine the true cause on your own. But even an on-site specialist can only state that the generator has failed. Regardless of whether it is a short circuit or an interturn circuit, an open circuit, the device will have to be removed and handed over for repair. Or buy a new one.

With a multimeter, those can save time identifying a defect in the charge circuit. In this case, the check should start from the generator itself. What to do?

• Disconnect the terminal block and check the voltage rating at the output of the device (the necessary data is reflected in the passport).
• If it is normal, then all consumers will have to be connected in turn. For this, you will already need a diagram. A fairly common reason for low charging current is increased leakage. Carrying out sequential actions and making measurements, you can find the emergency section of the electric / circuit. This is either badly worn wire insulation, or a faulty device.

• A dimly lit light bulb in the charge circuit indicates that it is there, but the current is insufficient. If it goes out with increasing speed, then first of all you should check the battery terminals and the condition of the generator brushes.
• Weak charging is typical for those cars whose owners enthusiastically modernize their iron horse, installing devices and systems that were not provided for by the original configuration and powered by the on-board network. The generator is clearly not designed for this, and its ability to simultaneously provide electricity and equipment, and the battery is not enough. Tuning lovers should take this into account and not waste time looking for an imaginary malfunction.

The article provides recommendations for finding the simplest defects in the battery charging circuit and in the generator itself. But in most cases, they are enough to not only carry out primary diagnostics onboard system auto, but also to fix minor problems. And, nevertheless, one of the main rules of repair should be observed: if you don't know, don't go. If you have any difficulties, it is better to consult a specialist. This primarily concerns the owners of imported cars.

I wish you success in studying the electronic circuit of your iron horse and in troubleshooting!

Many car owners or just amateurs prefer to know everything about their iron friend, rather than constantly take him to a car service for diagnostics, giving a good amount of money for it.

But knowing everything at once is simply impossible, so I suggest you fill a possible gap in knowledge on one of the frequently asked questions: what to do if not charging in progress on the battery? Moreover, the reasons and ways of eliminating such "non-work" depend on what kind of malfunction itself.

Option 1: you have turned on the ignition, and the red indicator lamp is off.

There can be many reasons why the battery does not charge.

• The battery can simply be discharged. In this case, of course, to eliminate the damage that has occurred, you just need to charge it.
• You may have a defective control lamp itself. Here, again, you just need to replace it and the problem will be solved.
• The brushes may already be worn out - replace them as well.
• The battery cable may be cut off. Either the terminals in your car have oxidized or weakened. However, check the terminals (and clean if necessary) and wire integrity.
• The wire between the test lamp, the ignition switch and the alternator may also be cut. This circuit should be checked with a probe.
• The voltage regulator is out of order. The solution is to replace it.
• It is possible in a similar situation that an insulating layer forms between the brushes and slip rings due to moisture (for example, after washing the engine). In this case, you need to blow out the generator with compressed air or clean the brushes and rings.
• Defective generator. The solution is to sort out the generator at the service station or replace it.

Option 2: the engine is running, but the charging indicator lamp blinks or is on at all.

Let's consider some of the most common causes of this situation and ways to correct their consequences.

• Drive belt auxiliary units loose or fell off - check the belt tension.
• The generator is out of order (see solution above).
• The brushes are worn out. The solution is to replace the voltage regulator.
• There may be poor contact at the generator terminals or a wire break at all. In this case, the contacts and the wire itself are checked, the necessary measures are taken to restore their performance.

Option 3: increased steam generation in the battery.

There is only one way out - replace the voltage regulator due to its malfunction.

Option 4: The top of the battery is wet.

In this case:

1. You may have poured the right amount of distilled water - then give it time to evaporate. Do not pump out electrolyte!
2. Perhaps the voltage regulator is out of order, then it should be replaced.
3. The battery holes are likely clogged. If this is the case, then you need to clean the ventilation holes.

It so happens that the owners of "Zhiguli" have to deal with such a problem as poor charging of the VAZ 2107 battery. The absence or poor charge is determined by disconnecting one of the terminals while the engine is running. If the car starts to stall or the engine becomes unstable, then there is no charging. There are several reasons why the alternator is charging poorly or not charging at all.

Why does the generator not charge the VAZ 2107?

1. Worn generator brushes. The normal length of the generator brushes should be at least 12 mm. If during measurements their length turned out to be less than the nominal value, then the brushes must be replaced with new ones.
2. Damage to the diode bridge. Burnout or poor contact of one or more diodes can also cause insufficient charging. You can check the condition of the diode bridge using a simple tester with a lamp. All diodes work like current conductors, only in one single direction. It turns out that if you change the polarity of the connection, the lamp will be on or off.
3. Perhaps there is no charging on the VAZ 2107, because the voltage relay (tablet) is faulty or, as it is correctly called, the voltage regulator relay. This small device keeps the voltage between 13 and 14 volts at different generator speeds. If the first two reasons did not affect you, and the voltage of the common on-board network is below nominal values \u200b\u200b(measured with a voltmeter with the engines running), then you can safely declare a relay malfunction. If poor charging of the VAZ 2107 battery is caused for this reason, then replace the voltage relay with a new one. But before you go to buy it, it is recommended to take a voltmeter with you and check the operation of the relay right near the store, because the features of charging the battery on different cars individual and it may not suit you, being serviceable. In addition, the marriage of voltage relays is a very common phenomenon.
4. It was wiser to put this reason in third place, but since its identification requires the skills of an electrician, it is singled out separately. It happens, but rarely, that the generator gives a weak charge due to faults in the stator and rotor windings. These can be: between phase closures or phase failure. In this case, it is recommended that the generator be repaired by a trained electrician.