Any experienced car owner will tell you that a stable cylinder head is a guarantee of the reliable functioning of a car engine. VAZ 2107 in good condition reduces fuel consumption and improves the dynamics of the car.

Inexperienced car owners should know that renovation work heads should only be manufactured by highly qualified specialists. Otherwise, an incorrectly adjusted unit can lead to damage to many engine components. Refurbishment work can cost a lot. But experienced car enthusiasts with the required skills can perform replacement, repair and broaching cylinder head bolts yourself.

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When is it necessary to remove and repair the unit?

The following symptoms may indicate a malfunction of the cylinder head on the VAZ 2107:

Step by step guide

Many faults are resolved after pulling the bolts, but if this does not help, then it may be necessary overhaul of this unit, providing for the removal of not only the cylinder head, but also other parts of the block. Some parts may need to be replaced such as gaskets, valve stem seals and valve guides.

Tools

For work we need the following tools:

Before starting work on the repair of the cylinder head, it must first be removed and cleaned of dirt.

Stages

Preparatory work and head removal

1. The first step is to drain the coolant from the engine.
2. We remove the carburetor.
3. Having disconnected the pipes and hoses, we remove the air barrier.
4. We remove the head cover.
5. We align the marks on the pulley crankshaft with a mark on the camshaft drive and a mark on the camshaft pulley with a mark on its housing as shown in the photo.
6. Disconnect the camshaft lock washer and release the chain tension.
7. Having ripped off the bolt, we remove the asterisk.
8. We unscrew the fasteners.
9. We extract camshaft with body.
10. After placing marks with a marker, remove the rockers.
11. We disconnect the wires.
12. We remove the pipe and unscrew the bolts securing the cylinder head to the block.
13. We remove the head.
14. We examine its condition and clean it from contamination.

This video shows the process of removing the cylinder head.

Checking the status

Now it's time to dry the valves. This is done with a special device. If chips, cracks, rust are not visible, we carry out further inspection. We assess the condition of the saddles, the repair of which is recommended every two hundred thousand kilometers.

Change the guide bushings

We inspect the guide bushings, in case of their unsatisfactory condition, they must be replaced.

To extract them, use special tool... If this is not at hand, then you can do with pliers and a clamp. Having removed the bushings, we measure their diameter. We buy similar ones, the size of which is 0.05-0.07 millimeters larger than the replaceable ones.

The guides are pressed in with a mandrel, an electric stove, a hammer and grease.

1. We put the head on a stand along the edges.
2. We put an electrical device under the place of work.
3. We are waiting for the metal to heat up to about a hundred degrees (so that it expands).
4. Now you need to properly lubricate the bushing with grease.
5. Having removed from the holders, we drive in new guides.
6. When all eight are replaced, we are waiting for the cylinder head to cool.
7. The valves should not wobble and move freely, there should not be any jamming.

We check the tightness of the head

To achieve a snug fit between the valves and the seats, the following must be done. Using a lapping paste, lubricate the valve and insert it into the head. There are several ways to rotate it, here are some of them:

• using a hose tightly fitted to the part;
• with a device very similar to a corkscrew.

The main sign of a good lapping valve will be the specific matte surface of the seat where it contacts the part.

The tightness of the head can be checked by pouring kerosene into the manifolds, you can also use gasoline. If done correctly, there should be no leaks for the first five to seven minutes.

Attention! All engine parts must be washed with a special solution, this will ensure long-term and trouble-free operation. power plant for a long time.

When assembling the head, be sure to pay attention to the correct pull of the bolts. It should be carried out strictly according to the scheme. In the event of an incorrect feed, distortions may appear and, as a result, all your previous work will be crossed out. If you have any questions, watch the video.

Cylinder head - cylinder head, must be removed if the gasket "breaks through" when you have to repair the head or the entire engine itself.

Before starting work on the removal of the cylinder head, the car is parked on an inspection pit or overpass.

We proceed to the execution of the robot for removing the cylinder head:

1.Disconnect the terminals with battery, you can only "minus".

2.Drain the coolant from the cylinder block;

3. Remove the "air" with the carburetor;

4. Unscrew and remove the intake and exhaust manifolds;

5. We pull out the candle high voltage wires and turn off the chips on the temperature sensor and on the oil level sensor;

6.Dismantle the ignition distributor and fuel pump;

7. Remove the timing cover and remove the belt, after removing the belt, unscrew and pull out the tension roller, the distance washer and the camshaft pulley;

8. Unscrew the nut that secures the timing cover to the cylinder head.

9.Pull off the cylinder head cover;

10.Use a screwdriver to release and remove all hoses from the cylinder head outlet.

11.Using a “10” hexagon, unscrew all the bolts that secure the head to the block (10 bolts) and pull them out together with the washers;

12. Slowly remove the head, the gasket should remain on the cylinder head;

We carry out the necessary repairs and assemble in reverse order.

Before installing the cylinder head, it is very good to clean it of dirt, oil, possible remnants of the old gasket on the planes of the head and block.

Tightening the cylinder head screws is carried out using a torque wrench in four stages and only in the following order as shown in the photo:

Stage I - tightening the bolts with a torque of 20 N / m;

ІІ stage - tightening the bolts with a torque of 75 N / m;

ІІІ stage - pulling out all the bolts by a quarter of a turn;

І V stage - repeatІІІ stage.

Video for removing the cylinder head on a VAZ 21099:

The cylinder head gasket (cylinder head) is a 3-in-1 device. After all, it alone is capable of simultaneously sealing three propulsion systems: cooling, oil and gas distribution.

Accordingly, the requirements for the quality indicators of this gasket are increased.

Purpose of the device

Engine modern car a very complex mechanism and consists of various interconnected nodes. In the cylinder block there is a crankshaft with a connecting rod-piston group, from above it is covered by a cylinder head, in which valves and a gas distribution mechanism are located.

This design was created for the convenience of repair and maintenance of the engine, and our gasket is located between them. It is necessary to seal directly the cylinder cavity, channels of the cooling system and channels of the lubrication system.

The service life of the entire motor depends on the reliability of the insulation of these cavities. Do not forget or try to save money on repairs. The gasket is intended for one-time use, therefore, in any repair, it is imperative to replace the gasket with a new one.

The cylinder head gasket seals the joints between the cylinder block and its head.

Types of structures

1. Non-asbestos - made of composite materials, characterized by low shrinkage and the ability of the material itself to recover.
2. Asbestos and thale-asbestos - similar in properties to asbestos-free, the same elasticity, heat resistance, elasticity. Currently used in most automotive engines. They are based on a fibrous fire-resistant material asbestos, prepared in the form of a thin sheet. To give strength, it is additionally reinforced with a metal mesh or perforation from a steel sheet, then a ready-made gasket is cut out of the resulting sandwich. The gasket must accurately repeat all the planes and channels of the cylinder head. Along the contour of the combustion chambers, oil channels and other thin bridges, asbestos gaskets are additionally edged with a thin layer of soft metal. Such a metal edging significantly increases the mechanical strength, increases the density at the junction of the cylinders, which significantly increases the resource and the degree of engine boost. To reduce the adhesive properties of the gasket, its surfaces are additionally treated with graphite grease.
3. All-metal gaskets are made of thin sheets of soft metals - aluminum, copper, mild steel. They are considered the most effective, with such a gasket there is a uniform distribution of pressure and temperature throughout the mating plane. Used on diesel engines trucks, engines air cooling, as an additional spacer to reduce compression.

Causes, signs of cylinder head malfunction

Not a single manufacturer will say for sure when the gasket will fail - it can serve for decades, or it can fail at the most inopportune moment. Durability is directly related to the operating mode and its observance.

The main cause of a breakdown is engine overheating, it can happen due to a malfunction of the cooling system or due to very intensive operation at the limit of the engine's capabilities.

Overheating leads to deformation of the cylinder block and the head of the block, with subsequent heating the gasket no longer fits so tightly to the planes, as a result, a loss of elasticity occurs and inevitable gas leaks from the combustion chamber begin, which can enter the cooling and lubrication systems.

The second most popular reason is incorrect tightening of the bolts when installing the cylinder head during repairs. Another reason is wrong installed ignition, which leads to detonation and glow ignition, which accelerates the wear of both the piston group and the block gasket.

Signs of structural failure:

• The presence of an oil or antifreeze leak at the outer junction of the cylinder head and the cylinder block.
• The oil level dipstick shows emulsion traces from the coolant, the oil level is higher than usual - this happens when there is a loss of tightness between the lubrication and cooling channels.
• White exhaust on a warm engine - a signal that antifreeze has entered the cylinders, a drop in the liquid level in expansion tank car.
• Traces of oil in the expansion tank are a sign of oil entering the cooling system through a punched gasket.
• Bubbles in the cooling system and radiator.
• Deterioration of engine thrust at all speeds.

These signs are not always indicators for replacing the cylinder head gasket, a malfunction in another place is possible - this is just a reason for a thorough diagnosis of the engine.

It must always be remembered that a belated replacement of the gasket can lead to expensive repairs of both the connecting rod and piston group and to the repair of the head.

Product replacement procedure

So, the gasket leak was detected, our actions. Firstly, if there are no obvious signs of damage to the gasket, you can try to additionally stretch the block head bolts.

It happens that after that the leak leaves, and the node serves for thousands of kilometers.

If there is a strong overheating or the gasket is badly damaged, then replacement is necessary.

Replacement instructions

1. 1. Reduce the pressure in the supply system (see "Decreasing the pressure in the supply system").
   2. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the storage battery.
   3. Drain the liquid from the engine cooling system (see "Replacing the coolant").
   4. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft pulley (see ma ").
   5. Disconnect the front pipe from the exhaust manifold (see "Replacing the elements of the exhaust system").
   6. Remove the air filter (see "Removal and installation air filter»).

7. Disengage the clips and disconnect the wiring harness pads from the injectors.

8. ... from the throttle position sensor ...

9. ... absolute pressure sensor ...

10 ... coolant temperature sensor ...

11. ... intake air temperature sensor ...

12 ... and regulator idle move.

13. Disconnect the oxygen concentration sensor harness connector ...

14. .. and remove the harness from the holder on the engine.

15. On the side of the engine facing the bulkhead, unscrew the nut securing the spacer to the intake pipe, remove the bolt of its fastening to the cylinder block ...

.... and remove the spacer.

16. Remove the engine harness from the holders on the rear intake pipe ...

... and in front.

18. Having unfastened the upper holders of the motor harness in front with a screwdriver ...

... and behind ...

20 ... remove the harness from the front ...

… And rear holders.

22. Remove the harness from the middle upper holder on the inlet pipe ...

23 ... and take him aside.

24. Remove the throttle actuator cable from the ball pin of the intermediate lever ...

25.… remove the cable from the hole of the bracket and take it aside.

26. Disconnect the canister purge hose from the inlet pipe.

27. Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail (see "Removal and installation of the fuel rail").

28. Disconnect the hose to the vacuum brake booster from the inlet pipe by squeezing the clips of its fastening.

29. Loosen the clamps of the three hoses by squeezing their bent antennae with pliers, slide the clamps along the hoses ...

30 .... and disconnect the hoses from the thermostat and cylinder head connections.

31. Remove the heater hoses from the holders on the bracket.

32. Remove the ground wire fastening bolt ...

33. ... and disconnect the wire.

34. Remove the bolt securing the power steering pump bracket to the block head.

35. Remove the cylinder head cover (see "Replacing the cylinder head cover gasket").

36. Loosen the ten bolts securing the cylinder head in the order shown ...

... completely unscrew the head fastening bolts, remove them ...

... and remove the washers installed under the bolts.

WARNING

Be sure to replace the block head bolts with new ones. Reuse is not allowed. Please note that the bolts are of different lengths. When removing them, note the location of the bolts and then reinstall them.

37. Remove the head assembly with the inlet pipe, throttle assembly and exhaust manifold ...

HELPFUL ADVICE

It is more convenient to remove the cylinder head with an assistant, since it is quite heavy.

1. 1. ... then remove its gasket.

1. 1. Tighten the bolts on a cold engine in the order shown in four steps:

Stage I (preliminary settlement of the gasket) - tighten the bolts to a torque of 20 Nm

(2 kgf · m), then turn by an angle of 100 ° ± 6 °. Take a shutter speed of 3 min;

Stage II - loosen bolts 1 and 2, then tighten them again to a torque of 20 Nm (2 kgfm) and turn them to an angle of 110 ° ± 6 °;

Stage III - loosen bolts 3, 4, 5 and 6, then tighten them again to a torque of 20 Nm (2 kgfm) and turn them to an angle of 110 ° ± 6 °;

Stage IV - loosen bolts 7, 8, 9 and 10, then retighten them to a torque of 20 Nm (2 kgfm) and tighten them by an angle of 110 ° ± 6 °.

1. 1. 1. Install all the removed parts and assemblies, except for the cylinder head cover and the air filter, in the reverse order of removal.
      2. Adjust the tension of the timing belt (see "Checking the tension of the accessory drive belt").
      3. Check and, if necessary, adjust the clearances in the valve drive (see "Adjusting the clearances in the valve drive").
      4. Install the cylinder head cover (see "Replacing the cylinder head cover gasket").
      5. Install the air filter (see "Removing and installing the air filter").
      6. Fill with coolant (see "Replacing the coolant").

In general, it should be understood that replacing the gasket under the cylinder head is a rather complicated operation that requires certain skills and special tools.

The cost of replacing it is also quite high, so it is easier to prevent failure than to repair it later.

It is necessary to monitor the coolant level, the health of the cooling systems and the engine temperature.

Use only high quality lubricants and antifreeze agents that are not aggressive to aluminum alloys. It is also imperative to monitor the health of the ignition system, use gasoline of the required brand.

A breakdown in the cylinder block is a serious reason to stop using the vehicle before replacing the defective part. If there are reasons why it is necessary to dismantle the cylinder head, then it is necessary to carry out this in the cleanest possible conditions so that dirt does not get into the cylinders. In order to know how to remove the cylinder head, sometimes it is not enough to look at the manual, so there are additional articles that describe the procedure in detail.

Reasons why cylinder head replacement may be required

The most common reason for head removal is to change the cylinder head gasket. In addition to the planned procedure, urgent diagnostics and removal may be required if there is a suspicion of a violation of the tightness of the cylinder head. The part is taken to specialized centers that have the necessary diagnostic equipment.

Another common reason for replacing the cylinder head is engine overheating. A single strong "boiling" of the engine can lead basically only to the failure of the head itself. It is worse if the overheating is small and will persist for a long time. Regular overheating will not only lead to failure of the cylinder head itself, but can also cause cracking of the steel liners in the valve seats, as well as deformation of the engine.

Preliminary preparation of all necessary tools will save time when dismantling the mechanism. To remove you will need:

1. Flat screwdriver.
2. Container for coolant and engine oil.
3. Nippers.
4. Pliers.
5. Hammer.
6. Spanner keys.

Masters also recommend having a torque wrench. The tool is mainly used only when installing the cylinder head, but sometimes it may be needed when removing it. Since all car models have their own characteristics, it is better to find a manual for a specific car in advance.

Work stages

Removing the cylinder head involves preparatory work:

1. First of all, you must disconnect the terminal from the battery.
2. If there is a decorative plastic cover, it must be dismantled. Also, if there is a crankcase protection, then it is better to remove it.
3. Further, liquids are merged into different containers, branch pipes and other wires are disconnected. If it is recommended to drain the oil onto a hot engine, then it is better to carry out other actions when the engine has already cooled down.
4. For freer access to the engine, experienced craftsmen recommend removing the battery.
5. Loosen the drive belt and turn off the power steering pump. After loosening the belt, you can remove the bar that holds it, and move the generator to the side to increase the space around the engine.
6. Since there is a gradual compression, combustion, release and inlet of the gas mixture in the cylinders, it is important to set the piston in a certain position. The TDC position is best suited for this purpose.
7. Next, you need to unfasten the wiring harness and take it to the side.
8. Removing the air filter. In addition to the filter itself, it is necessary to remove its housing and timing belt. When the belt is removed, you need to start dismantling the camshaft pulley. The pulley must be fixed with one screwdriver to prevent scrolling, and remove the part with the second.
9. The connectors of the idle speed controller and DZ must be disconnected from the wiring.
10. The air branch pipe that supplies the gas must be disconnected from the TPS and dismantled.
11. The solenoid valve is disconnected from the system and locked in a secure place.
12. Next, you need to disconnect the hoses responsible for the fuel supply.
13. All sensors are turned off, and the remaining pipes are removed and put in a safe place.
14. After all attachments have been completely dismantled, you can proceed to dismantle the armored conduits and move them to a separate place.
15. Next, the bolt is unscrewed, which is responsible for holding the bracket for the intake pipe. The upper bolts can be unscrewed with a socket wrench.
16. Further, the intake pipe is detached from the collector.

The next step is to unscrew the fasteners that fix the head directly to the cylinder block. It is better to unscrew the bolts gradually. The first two times, unscrewing takes place only half a turn of the thread.

All fasteners should be removed evenly, so it is best to use a torque wrench. The sequence must be followed exactly to prevent deformation of the motor. You can find out the order of unscrewing in the manual that came with the car.

After the bolts have been unscrewed, the cylinder head is dismantled. Depending on the manipulations to be carried out with the block head, the part can be dismantled complete with an exhaust manifold and an inlet pipe.

In the technical center ‘’ Renosip ’’ removal and installation of the cylinder head cost 14,000 rubles. it low price for Moscow, especially if we take into account the complexity of the work carried out. The features of the repair, which is carried out after dismantling the cylinder head, depend on a number of parameters:

• valve stem conditions;
• cylinder head height;
• wear of mating surfaces;
• valve length;
• clearances.

The '' Renosip '' masters evaluate the above parameters and then decide on the nature of the recovery procedures. A specialized tool is used to remove the cylinder head, and high-precision modern machines are used for repairs. This guarantees the safety of the accompanying mechanisms and the flawless processing of the working surfaces. It is noteworthy that at the end of the restoration, when re-installing the cylinder head, new consumables are used: bolts and gaskets, and sometimes even spark plug seals. The bolts are tightened according to the manufacturer's instructions.

What work is carried out in the process of removing and repairing the cylinder head?

• Washing

To carry out the repair correctly, it is necessary to remove particles of varnish deposits and dirt from the cylinder head. This is done with an alkaline solution, and after washing the cylinder head, it is necessary to blow it with a stream of compressed air.

• Dismantling

The number and sequence of procedures that need to be implemented to remove the cylinder head directly depend on the make, model of the car. As a rule, craftsmen have to drain the coolant, dismantle the intercooler, diffuser, fan elements, a block with dampers, fuel filter, Injection pump, EGR valve, various pipes, intake and exhaust manifolds, glow plugs, injectors, etc.

• Grinding

When the motor overheats, the head of the block "leads". Therefore, the craftsmen have to restore its plane on milling equipment. Before grinding or milling, the head is placed on a machine to check the degree of deformation. Cast iron and aluminum cylinder heads are subject to restoration, and a certain surface roughness is necessarily achieved.

The cylinder block itself is also ground, in which the joint with the cylinder head plane is subject to accelerated wear. With the aforementioned defect, the cylinders are deformed, which must be restored.

• Crimping

To detect cracks in the cylinder head, pressurize. The causes of cracks can be different - from sudden temperature changes to breakage of individual parts. In the process of pressing, the cylinder head shirts are closed with seals, and the head itself is immersed in a bath. Then air is supplied through one of the nozzles, revealing leaks through bubbles.

• Installing new valve sleeves

The old bushings are dismantled after preheating the head, and the new ones are pressed in, maintaining a certain tightness.

• Installing a new valve seat and valve stem seals

The new saddle has to be pressed in, which is a technically difficult and time-consuming procedure. And to dismantle the old and install new valve stem seals, you will need a specialized tool. If you neglect the procedure for replacing MSCs, it is possible increased consumption oil - up to 2 liters per 10 thousand km when operating a car in Moscow, in conditions of constant traffic jams.

• Editing of working chamfers (necessary to restore normal geometry)

• Lapping valves

This is the finishing procedure for which lapping paste is used. After lapping, flushing and blowing are carried out. Then the repaired cylinder head is installed back on the vehicle.