The ignition module receives a control pulse from the control unit and transmits it to the cylinder plug to ignite the air / fuel mixture. The device itself consists of two coils that generate, and a two-channel switch. The body of the product is made of durable plastic.

Breakage of the ignition module

Violations in the operation of this element can manifest as follows:

• Noticeable decrease.
• No spark on one of the candles.
• Noticeable "floating" idle.

These signs indicate that there is a problem with the ignition module. If they appear, it is worth replacing the ignition module.

Replacing the ignition module on the VAZ-2114

Packaging from the original part

To replace the ignition module, you will need a rag and a 13 wrench. It is best to do it on some level surface.

Progress

Checking the operation of the ignition module (video)

What if the problem persists after replacing the module?

First of all, it is necessary.

Checking the ignition module

Resistance between contacts: 1 and 4, 2 and 3 - should not be above 5.8 kΩ!

If nothing has changed after replacing the ignition module, then others are faulty.

Plugs and ignition system

If it does not help, then you need to check the candles and replace if necessary(cm. ).

Inspecting the condition of the spark plugs

Before that, you need to remove the tips of the armored wires. To unscrew the candles, you will have to use a special wrench. Then the candles need to be inspected: they should have a normal brown color and there should be no carbon or soot on the surface.

If replacing the module did not correct the situation, and. This means that the rings or pistons are worn out., they must be replaced, and the candles must be cleaned and reinstalled in the connector. It is also worth checking - too long a distance is bad for the operation of devices.

Detailed video replacement process

conclusions

Thus, replacing a faulty ignition module is not very difficult. It is important not to confuse locations. high-voltage wires, this leads to a rapid failure of the new device due to a strong change in the internal resistance in the wires. It should be borne in mind that the malfunction is sometimes not related to the breakdown of the ignition module.

The VAZ 2114 ignition module is a more perfect solution than the classic "bobbin" coil, which was installed on the "classic". Nevertheless, checking this element should not be difficult even for novice motorists.

8 valve injector: signs of a malfunction of the ignition module

Most often, it makes sense to sin on the work of the module in the following situations:

• there is a "floating" of idle speed;
• the engine "doubles", that is, it is audible that one of the pairs of cylinders does not work: the first-fourth or the second-third;
• traction dips during acceleration are felt;
• the error "Check engine" is displayed.

As the module malfunctions show

Having driven to the service station or using an amateur diagnostic equipment (error scanner, special application and adapter for computer diagnostics via Bluetooth), you can also find out that the "root of evil" is in the ignition module.

In this case, the following error codes should be displayed:

• P3000 (P3001, P3002, P3003, P3004) - the ignition in the cylinders does not work;
• P0351 - open circuit in the winding of a pair of 1-4 cylinders;
• P0352 - open circuit in the winding of a pair of 2-3 cylinders.

However, it is not at all necessary that the results of the engine diagnostics indicate the "death" of the module. High voltage wires (eg breakdown) and spark plugs can also cause problems. Therefore, it is recommended to go from small to serious first. And only in case of complete serviceability of other elements of the ignition system does it make sense to start checking the module.

How to check the ignition module VAZ 2114

The easiest and most reliable way to find out if the problem lies in the module is to install a known working device of the appropriate model.

Video tutorial on how to remove the ignition coil VAZ 2114

If everything worked after the replacement, it is safe to say that the culprit for the unstable work power unit is the ignition module. Since its repair, according to the instruction manual, is not provided, you will have to go to the store to buy.

If there is no way to borrow a working module from someone, you will need to pick up a multitester, a control light and be patient:

• First of all, measure the resistance between the paired terminals of the secondary winding. To do this, put the tester in ohmmeter mode. Install the probes on the leads to the first and fourth cylinders, then to the second and third. It doesn't really matter which numbers the display shows (usually about 5.4-5.5 kOhm) - it is important that the results are identical in both cases. If the error is more than 100 Ohm, you are dealing with a secondary malfunction, which means that the module must be replaced.

• The next option for checking should be the "ringing" of the block of wires to which the module is connected. Disconnect it and put the tester into voltmeter mode. Place one probe on pin A, the other on engine ground. Ask your assistant to start the engine (or at least crank the starter) and look at the display readings. The voltage should be around the normal 12 volts. Do the same with the second contact.
• If there is no voltage at all, check the fuse. In this case, see the three fuses on the ECU. This unit is located under the torpedo, from the front passenger side. The fasteners are unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver. The fuse for the ignition module is the third from the top (the lowest) and has a rating of 7.5 A. Along with a blown fuse, the failure of contacts, corrosion, wire breakage can cause the lack of electric current.

• There is another way to check the correctness of the circuit closure, which will be very useful in the absence of a multitester at hand. Take a 12 V control light and connect one of its wires to the terminal of the block A, the other - short to the motor housing. Ask an assistant to turn the ignition key and turn the starter slightly. At this point, the light should flicker. Do the same with pin B.

Replacement price: how much does a new module cost and which model to buy

For VAZ 2114, the ignition module 43.3705 is suitable, which is also used on models 2110, 1118, 2170, equipped with an 8-valve injection engine with an M7.9.7 electronic control system. The analogs are modules 2111-3705010-03 SOATE and 4601.3705 MZATE. The purchase price ranges from 600 to 900 rubles.

Module replacement

How to remove and order of connection:

1. Before starting work, disconnect the "negative" terminal on the battery or use the "earth" disconnect button.
2. Remove the tips from the spark plugs.
3. After bending the latch, disconnect the low-voltage connector of the module.
4. Disconnect the high voltage wires from the connectors on the module.
5. Remove the two crankcase bolts using a 13 wrench. Also loosen the third 17 cap bolt.
6. Remove the module with the bracket.
7. Unscrew the mounting bolts to the bracket. They go under the hex.
8. Installation of the module is carried out upside-down. In this case, the high-voltage wires are connected in accordance with the cylinder numbers cast on the module case. There are similar numbers on the BB wires themselves.

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The first cars of this series were produced with a contactless ignition system, and the electronic one appeared only later. Due to the fact that throughout its history the car was equipped in different ways, before setting the ignition on the VAZ 2114, you need to find out what it is.

Ignition systems 8-valve injection VAZ-2114

You can determine the type of ignition by looking under the hood:

1. If you find a breaker near the "heart" of your car (analog of a distributor installed on contact systems), then your car belongs to the first series, and the ignition of the VAZ 2114 injector on it is contactless, based on the interrupter-distributor assembly. Ignition in such systems is set by turning the distributor by degrees, and the results of the work depend on the performer's experience and availability special equipment... So, with the help of a stroboscope, the system can be debugged exactly as the owner of the car wants.
2. If this part is not there, then your car belongs to the representatives of the ten-family, equipped with an electronic ignition system. It is impossible to set this manually, and its operation is completely controlled by the ECU. Moreover, it is not completely unregulated, because by connecting to on-board computer some of its parameters can be reconfigured to your taste, but only a few specialists are able to do it correctly.

IMPORTANT! The electronic system in VAZ 2114 is designed so that the owner does not have to service it, so if you do not plan to participate in racing competitions on your car, it is better not to go into the software.

Causes of ignition problems

As mentioned earlier, in order to set the ignition in the electronic system, you will have to go into the "brains", there you can also check the performance of the sensors, so they strongly affect the operation of the system, regardless of the type of ignition.

On the electronic type, the main causes of failures are:

1. Incorrect information transmitted from sensors to the ECU. If the connection to the brain and diagnostics showed strange data coming from one or more control devices, it is necessary to use "substitution". The easiest way is to find a car with known good sensors, install them and double-check the result. Here you need to understand that you need not a new one, but a working sensor, because a factory defect is not excluded even on a new mechanism.
2. The input voltage is correct from a technical point of view is 5V, but if this voltage changes due to a violation of the mechanical integrity of the wires or another problem with the car's electronics, the readings of the sensors will change after it. If this happens, then the ECU begins to correct the operation of the engine, relying on incorrect data, which leads to incorrect operation of the entire mechanism as a whole. To check this breakdown, you will need a known working system of wires leading to the sensor or a donor machine, into which you can install your sensor and check the system for operability.
3. Broken ECU - if the previous two options did not give a visible result, and the installation of your sensor and wiring in a working car does not change its performance, only this option remains. You can try to reflash the "brain" of the car, but due to its low cost, it is better to immediately buy a new ECU and install it on the car.

Before proceeding to the radical measures proposed in the third option, it is worth additionally checking the correct location of the labels. In cars with contactless ignition this is the VAZ 2114 ignition installation, and for a car with an electronic system, debugging is important as a check of the synchronization of the injection system with the gas distribution mechanism.

Preparing to adjust the ignition

To correctly set the ignition timing of the VAZ 2114 and make debugging, you need to prepare. The method described below will not require acrobatic agility from the owner and is quite executable both in an uncomfortable and cramped garage environment and if the car enthusiast has a tummy.

IMPORTANT! Thorough preparation always speeds up the process at times technical works, regardless of what exactly has to be repaired.

Preparation for debugging ignition marks is as follows:

1. The car is placed on a flat surface and placed on the handbrake.
2. The second step is to remove the front right wheel, which will subsequently allow access to the gas distribution mechanism itself, which will speed up the work, make it convenient and easy, for this:
   and. we unscrew the fasteners of our wheel and place the chock under the diagonally opposite wheel (rear left);
   b. raise the car with a jack, twist the wheel mounts completely and remove it.
3. Finally, we need to remove the timing belt mudguard (if there is one, of course). By the way, you can remove it not entirely, but only unscrew the two lower fasteners, then you can move it away without damaging it.

Labels and direct adjustment

When the preparation is completed and the car is ready to work with it, you can begin to set the ignition marks of the VAZ 2114. The task of the procedure is to check the synchronization of the system (the correlation of the camshaft, crankshaft and injection moment), with some nuances for the electronic system.

For electronic ignition systems, there is a small nuance - the need to check the distance from the master wheel to the sensor. Normally, this distance should not exceed 0.7 mm, but also not be less than 0.5 mm. You can use a valve dipstick to check.

The further procedure for the electronic ignition system is as follows:

Useful video

You can find interesting information by watching the additional video below:

The injector controls fuel injection and can also control ignition. On all new injection machines, the ignition is set by a computer and is regulated by filling in different firmware. But this was not always the case, and on older cars, the same Japanese from the 90s, the computer only regulates fuel injection, and the ignition timing is set using a distributor and is set in the same way as on old Lada models, but depending on the speed the ignition advance is adjusted using a more complex vacuum system than on carburetor Zhiguli. Sometimes, one tube will break through, and traction may disappear in the operating mode, you will have to look for and fix this defect.

But back to more modern systems ignition, which are controlled by a computer, especially since they were originally installed on the injection VAZ.

Ignition sensors and tags

For the ignition system to work properly, the computer needs to read the correct information from the sensors. Subsequently, this information will be processed in accordance with the fuel cards sewn into the injector.

The main signal comes from the crankshaft sensor. This sensor shows the position of the crankshaft at a given time and, being guided by it, calculates at what moment it is necessary to inject fuel, and at what moment to ignite this very fuel, depending on the engine speed, which are also determined by this sensor.

1 - master disk crankshaft; 2 - crankshaft position sensor; 3 - the angle of rotation of the crankshaft; 4 - output signal of the crankshaft position sensor

And this is what a typical signal received by a computer from a crankshaft sensor looks like. Pay attention to 270 ° - this is like a zero point, showing the computer that the engine has been rotated and a new cycle begins. This is achieved due to the absence of a tooth on the crankshaft timing sprocket.

Ignition control

Electronic ignition control

How to set the ignition angle? On systems with electronic systems ignition control this can be done using computer diagnostics that connects to Electronic unit Control (ECU) or "brains" of the car. And there you can see how the engine works in real time - what signals come from the sensors, what engine speed, fuel consumption, injection timing, ignition timing and other input and output data.

Basically, there is no need to change anything during operation unless you change the firmware. That is, if the machine began to work somehow incorrectly, then most likely there may be several reasons:

1. An incorrect signal is received from the sensors - in this case, you can replace the alleged faulty sensor with a replacement, obviously working one, and see if the result changes.
2. The voltage in the network is incorrect and, accordingly, the sensors give an incorrect signal. The input signal to the sensor is 5V, if this indicator is different, then the ECU will receive incorrect input data and the engine will not be able to work in normal mode.
3. Defective ECU. Quite often it happens that after going through everything that is possible, it turns out that brains have flown. But it's not scary, they are inexpensive at VAZ.

Therefore, as such, the ignition is not set on injection machines, it is already included in the system, but it is worth checking if the marks are set correctly.

Adjusting the ignition marks on the VAZ-2110 injector

When the engine is running, there are some phases that must work synchronously, the camshaft must coincide with the crankshaft, and the moments of fuel injection and ignition must correlate with them. Consider all this using the example of the VAZ-2110.

How to set the ignition on a VAZ 2110 injector

If the car does not start, it shoots, sneezes and everything is in the pipe, there are no marks somewhere and this must be dealt with.

On any machine, the timing marks must be perfectly aligned, only then it will work normally. On the VAZ-2110, the crankshaft mark is on the flywheel. It is necessary to look into the viewing window on the gearbox housing, through which the flywheel is visible. Better to illuminate with a flashlight, because it is not so easy to see.

The labels must match perfectly. But ... It may not happen. The fact is that when disassembling the engine, the flywheel can be put on the other side, and then these marks will not be needed by anyone. Let's consider other methods of how to act in such a situation. Honestly, I have never set the timing by the mark on the flywheel, I don't like this method.

A similar mark is present on the front belt pulley. Two points must match - one on the toothed pulley and the other on the oil pump. If they match, it means that the pistons are at TDC of the 1st and 4th cylinders, and the crankshaft is set to its original position. It remains to do the same with the camshaft.

On the single-shaft heads of the VAZ-2114, 2108, 2110, it is necessary to combine the tide on the sprocket and the protrusion on the rear cover of the timing belt.

For two-shaft 16-valve engines, which are found on the VAZ-2112, the diagram looks a little different, the marks on the asterisks of both camshafts should look clearly upward, there are corresponding marks on the back cover with which they should coincide.

If all the marks match, great, the timing is ideal. It remains now to check whether the crankshaft sensor is correctly set.

The crankshaft position sensor on the VAZ-2110 is installed in the front of the engine; it reads the readings from an asterisk, which is installed on the pulley. This sprocket is placed on the key. And there are a few things to check here.

Since the pulley is placed on a key, a situation is possible when this seat breaks and the pulley is installed at a different angle, slightly turned. From here, an incorrect signal will be sent to the crankshaft sensor, sooner or later than it should be, respectively, and the ignition will be made unclear when. It will be necessary to expose the broken pulley more accurately, or change it together with the key.

Another problem may be that the crankshaft position sensor may be too far from the pulley sprocket (maybe the sensor is a little non-standard, or incorrectly installed), in which case the signal will be incorrect.

This, perhaps, is all the reasons that lead to a malfunction of the ignition on the VAZ.

When self-diagnosis engine, its systems and characteristics, use a minimum of equipment. For example, before checking the ignition module, it is advisable to have a special stand, the necessary software or, in extreme cases, an oscilloscope. None of us have and will not have such equipment, so we will use available tools and devices for a preliminary check.

How to check the ignition module VAZ-2114

Interruptions and jerks when driving, a triple engine, difficult starting or even engine failure are the main signs of failure of the ignition module.

Ignition module

The difficulty of diagnostics on your own is that several devices are combined in the module at once, and it itself is made in a single case and there is no way to check each device separately. At least with bare hands. Nevertheless, there is something that can be done in order to, if not repair, then at least for sure know about the cause of the malfunction.

Checking the quality of contacts

First of all, without dismantling anything, it is worth checking the quality of the contact on all pads of the low voltage circuit, and also establish the presence of a contact on the high voltage wires.

Checking the power supply to the ignition module

Checking the voltage on the ignition module pads

In order to know that it is the module that is faulty, check if it is receiving power. To do this, we find the connector in the block, and there we are looking for a contact marked with the letter A. To control the power supply of the module, we take a multimeter, set it to the mode of measuring alternating current up to 20 V, install one probe (minus) to the engine weight and turn on the ignition. The second probe is installed on terminal A on the block. If the electrical equipment is in good working order, the multimeter will show 12 V, which means that power is being supplied to the module, we are looking for the cause of the malfunction further.

Checking the connector pins

We have already carried out a preliminary check and made sure that the ignition module is powered. Now it's time to deal with the contacts separately. With the ignition on, connect the test lamp to contact A and contact AT.

The control can be a conventional low-power 12-volt lamp with soldered wires, or you can use a car test probe with a 12V voltage indicator.

Checking the ignition module

To check the functionality of the module we attach the contacts from the test lamp or probe to the terminals A and B, after that we turn the engine with a starter.

If the lamp starts blinking, the module gives a break in voltage by analogy with a contact breaker.

In this case, pins A and B are all right.

If the lamp does not respond to starting the starter, the module is clearly faulty.

Checking module 2114 using available methods

Most effective method find out that the ignition module does not work, take a known working device and try to start the engine on it. It is clear that not every module from eights, nines and second generation Samar can fit.

The algorithm of action for subsequent verification is as follows:

Video about checking the ignition module on the VAZ-2114

conclusions

Like any non-repairable device, the ignition module most often needs to be replaced ... This way you can save a lot of time and nerves, which are not worth the money that is asked for a new module. Good luck to everyone!

Video about replacing the ignition module VAZ-2114