Do-it-yourself all-wheel drive ATV from the Urals. All-wheel drive ATV from the Urals

Was going purely for entertainment purposes, so the author focused on industrial ATVs and the collection of his car. However, there are a number of design differences that have a positive effect on the cross-country ability of the all-terrain vehicle and significantly distinguish it against the background of standard ATVs.

The machine has excellent cross-country ability and reliability, largely due to its low weight.

When building this model homemade ATV the following parts and materials were used:
1) water pipe with a diameter of 32 mm
2) pipe 27 mm
3) Engine internal combustion from the car Oka 11113
4) Gearbox from the same oki
5) front and rear gearboxes from the classic vase
6) hubs and grenades from vaz 2109
7) fiberglass

Let's take a closer look at the stages of building this all-terrain vehicle:

The suspension of an all-terrain vehicle of a home-made design is organized using A-shaped arms, which are made of a pipe with a diameter of 27 mm.

The engine and gearbox from the car was installed, the differential was welded.

The gear ratio ratio of the front and rear gears is 43 to 11, they were redesigned for internal grenades from the fret of the nine.

Hubs and disc brakes from the VAZ 2109 were installed, and the wheels were supplied with a 15 radius through spacers.

Initially, it was planned to make the grip on the handlebars like that of motorcycles, but then it was nevertheless decided to make it under the left foot, despite the unusual solution for an ATV, it turned out to be quite convenient according to the author. That is, there are no problems with shifting gears on the go. Moreover, the all-terrain vehicle is able to get under way in any gear, even with a passenger on board, the engine power is quite enough. Therefore, the gears are not changed so often, when driving on the road, only the third and fourth gears are used, and off the road, respectively, the first and second as low gears.

A transfer case of the author's own design was organized, thanks to which it became possible to disconnect front axle... Below is a photo of the entire front axle release mechanism, where you can see the main elements of the parts:

Work was carried out on the rear suspension of the all-terrain vehicle:

The frame of the machine for pasting with fiberglass is being prepared:

The process of fixing fiberglass on the machine:

Then the author proceeded to paint work on the all-terrain vehicle:

The weak point of the design, as you can see from the photographs, is the anthers on the grenades. The author has not yet decided how exactly to protect them from possible breaks.

The next photo clearly shows the gear selection mechanism, as can be seen in the photo, the lever was slightly distant from the engine, since before that it was installed closer and the author often burned himself against the muffler, especially there was a high probability of such an injury when engaging reverse gear. For now, the problem has been completely fixed by moving the lever:

There is no photo on the radiator yet, but what exactly are you interested in?

The radiator of the all-terrain vehicle is hidden under the plastic right in front of the instrument panel, despite the fact that the hole, which there is very small, is quite enough for cooling the car. However, problems can arise when driving through heavy mud, since the hole is easily clogged, and cooling from the incoming air does not work. But the fan copes with such a load, although the all-terrain vehicle is not operated on heavy mud. In addition, the fan turns on only under really heavy loads, which is extremely rare.

The reason for this is that the device itself turned out to be quite light and the engine from the oka copes well with the loads.

Below is a photo of the radiator placement:

The all-terrain vehicle has an approximate mass of about 450 kilograms.
Video of tests of the all-terrain vehicle when driving on snow:

If you watched the video, then you probably noticed the rear wheel slipping as much as several meters, which should say about the operation of the rear differential. In this way, this all-terrain vehicle is very different from industrial ones, since they have no rear differential and rear axle always rowing, which does not interfere with ATV handling at all, since the width of the machine is small.

The author also wanted to initially weld the rear differential, but thought that he would always have time to do this, and decided to try to ride with a differential for now. But since the cross-country ability of the all-terrain vehicle was arranged and there were no problems with the rear axle, the author had no desire to disassemble the structure and weld the rear differential.

That is why the all-terrain vehicle has remained with a rear differential.

The only author is planning to install more serious wheels on the all-terrain vehicle. Or remove the 15 disc stands by installing 4 x 100 bolt discs from Logan or Opel, which perfectly fit VAZ hubs.

There are many options for how to make an ATV with your own hands. It is important to decide what you want to get as a result of your work and what funds you have. Consider a simpler rear-wheel drive option.

From the Ural motorcycle, or from IZH

For the base you will need:

the motorcycle itself;
two front hubs from a rear-wheel drive passenger car (Zhiguli classic, Moskvich);
rear axle (preferably from a car of the same brand from which the hubs were taken, so that the discs coincide in the mounting holes);
cardan shaft, or semi-axis (depending on the design);
front suspension arms (if you wish, you can make completely homemade ones);
tie rod;
pipe (square thick wall, or round plumbing about ¾ inch);

From the tool:

welding machine;
bulgarian.

This is basic. A bunch of little things will be needed along the way.

We disassemble the motorcycle completely. We want a clean frame with no handlebars or shock absorbers.

We draw drawings, or use ready-made ones and decide which option rear suspension suits us:

hard without shock absorbers (cheaper and less laborious, but more suitable for high soft rubber);
on springs with shock absorbers;
on springs.

Without shock absorbers

Cut off the rear part of the frame along with the swingarm mount. We lengthen the frame and rigidly weld the bridge using gussets and jibs.

It is important to consider the following points:

the axle gearbox, in case of replacement, must be removed without problems;
the direction of rotation at the exit from the Ural transmission is the opposite. Those. the road bridge must be turned over during installation, otherwise it will go back.

Homemade ATV video

On springs with shock absorbers

We leave the rear suspension swingarm together with the native silent blocks. We weld the bridge to the fork, be sure to reinforce the seams with wide kerchiefs, otherwise it will vomit along with the metal of the bridge. Instead of a universal joint, in this case, you need to use a semi-axle from the Oka, or VAZ 08, 09, etc. Because when using a native rear fork, it requires a torque transmission at a large angle, which cannot be provided by the universal joint. With this design, springs with shock absorbers can be left in their old place.

On springs

If you need a cargo ATV with a body for your needs, it is better to use springs for the rear suspension. In this case, a frame for the body is welded from a square thick-walled pipe (with a section of approximately 70 × 40). The length is not shorter than the spring, but the width is equal to the size of the bridge. This body frame is connected to the motorcycle frame by means of jibs, which must be correctly positioned to ensure sufficient torsional rigidity.

The base of such an ATV is larger than the above structures, since the rear axle is located further away. But it becomes possible to use the cardan shaft of a car: serial, or shortened. The cardan is connected to the box with a Ural rubber coupling, and with the bridge - with a native flange, through the hinge crosspiece.

If an IZhevsky donor is used for an ATV, it is more convenient to refuse the differential. In this case, a large driven sprocket is installed on the axle, and the drive is carried out by the native chain.

Front suspension

The front suspension design is almost the same for an ATV from IZH and from the Urals. To attach the swing arms, the motorcycle frame is extended at the front. It is important to calculate that the turning wheels do not hit the engine cylinders. Therefore, on the Ural frame, the wheels should be further forward.

To increase the geometric flotation, the suspension arms should be as long as possible. Therefore, it is better to make them yourself, and not use serial ones from the car.

The steering column can be made from the Ural cardan. At the bottom, two steering bipods are welded to it, located side by side, each for its own steering link: on the right and left wheel. The hubs are attached by means of native ball.

Four-wheel drive ATV from Oka

Using power unit from the Oka, you can make an all-wheel drive ATV. The frame is better for him to cook from scratch, given the mount and size of the engine. In the front suspension, more space is left for the installation of the front wheel drive gearbox, which can be made independently from the "classic" rear axle. To do this, cut off the "stockings" of the bridge and remove the suitable axle shafts from the VAZ 08, 09 from the differential.

It is important to think over every detail so that as many standard parts as possible are used, which will greatly facilitate subsequent repairs.

The power unit is deployed in motion. The axle shafts now become cardan shafts that transmit torque to the front and rear axles.

The checkpoint is more convenient to operate manually.

Finishing

First of all, these are the wings! Still, the technique is extreme, they must be strong and wide. With sufficient metalworking skills, you can give your ATV this appearancethat a homemade one will look no worse than a factory one. Some shapes can be shaped using polyurethane foam. She, after hardening, is easily processed, putty and painted. A reliable trunk will add rigidity to the bodywork. By fixing a wardrobe trunk on it, you can increase the size of the usable area for the carriage of goods.

Blade, trailer

The ATV is an excellent base for installing all kinds of attachmentsuseful in the household. A homemade ATV can be equipped with a snow blade. The size of the blade depends on the dimensions and weight of the ATV. If the quadric is made on the basis of the Urals, it will pull a knife 1.5 m wide and half a meter high. The material for the shovel is steel 3 mm.

Even a children's ATV has an enviable cross-country ability; all the more, large and heavy, the strength to tow a car trailer.

The time, money and effort spent on making a homemade ATV will pay off with interest. Indeed, in addition to adrenaline, you get a hard worker on the farm who can replace a small tractor.

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Today, old Soviet-made motorcycles are increasingly sent to recycling or to scrap metal collection points. And there are reasons for this. Firstly, it is very difficult to maintain an old motorcycle due to the large shortage of spare parts for it, and secondly, frequent breakdowns can infuriate even the most adequate motorcyclist. So it turns out that they either stand in the yard and rust, or disassemble and leave "for spare parts." However, some craftsmen give a second life to Soviet transport, remaking it for an ATV. The most popular platform for this was the Ural motorcycle. How to make an ATV from the "Ural", read further in our article.

Manufacturing steps

In total, 4 stages are divided, of which this type of transport consists:

Frame modernization.
Installation of another engine and gearbox.
Suspension rework.
Painting and installation of a new dashboard.

What materials do we need to work?

In order to independently make 4x4 from Ural, we need the following set of spare parts:

Two new bridges.
Brake system.
Shock absorbers.

Among the main tools, it is necessary to highlight a welding machine, as well as a grinder. In their absence, it is simply impossible to carry out a full assembly of the ATV.

Control type

Before starting work on modernization, you should decide on what type of control the future vehicle will have. He can be both motorcycle and steering. In the latter case, a standard steering wheel from the Urals is ideal, but in the second one you will have to purchase additional parts. And of course, all this, together with the future frame design, is applied to the ATV drawing. In this case, the “Ural” will make a real beast that can easily overcome any road barriers.

Frame

At the initial stage, technical adjustments need to be made to the design of the standard frame. In our case, we move the vertical seatpost tube 4 centimeters back, then weld the bridge and fork to the motorcycle swingarm and cut off the rear struts. How to make a do-it-yourself ATV from the Ural? We make special struts from metal pipes and mount them next to the suspension bushings. Parts such as the rear rack and front bumper can be made from a 30mm thin-walled tube. In order for the welding machine not to burn through the metal, we set its power to the very minimum.

Running system

How to make an ATV from Ural? First of all, we pay attention to There may be several options for improving the system. The simplest of them is the installation of a standard propeller shaft together with a gearbox. Of course, this method is much simpler and faster than installing a road bridge, but do not forget that there will be no differential in it.

In this regard, most owners decide to install bridges with passenger car... The most suitable option for this there will be a domestic "Oka". But in terms of its weight, it is too large, which will significantly affect the cross-country ability and dynamics of acceleration of the car, so we will shorten it. The work is very painstaking, but the differential is already built into the bridge, which is very useful when driving on an asphalt road.

An ATV with a shorter, more compact axle will perform much better on the road. In order to modify this part of the suspension, we need to cut off the support cup and the spring bracket, and then remove the end flange from the socket. When we shorten the stocking, the last element is inserted back and the finished structure is secured by welding. By the way, the driveshaft can also be made from the Oka axle shafts.

More possibilities open before us when designing the front suspension. Of course, comparing the weight of the future ATV, it's easy to guess how ridiculous the installation of car suspension arms will be. Therefore, in order to reduce the curb weight of the vehicle, we recommend making them by our own efforts, independently choosing for them right size... Most often it is made of metal pipes with a size of 25x25x2 mm. In this case, the rotary cams are taken from the Zhiguli car. Brake system better to purchase separately.

Motor

We will have it as standard, from Ural. However - due to the greater mass of the ATV - our internal combustion engine will get very hot. In this regard, in order to avoid overheating of the engine, we install a forced air cooling from the "eight". It should also be noted that the more the age and mileage of the donor car, the less reliable the design of our ATV will be. Therefore, try to select the least worn parts on the market.

Painting

After technical part ATV will be ready for use, it's time to think about painting and illumination. As for the first point, the redesigned "Ural" will look great in the "khaki" style, but such a color with your own hands is very difficult to do. Therefore, we select the color that best matches the given one. For example, ATVs painted in metallic green look very nice. In general, you can choose the style and shade of the cladding details without any criteria. Do not forget to sheathe Ural with a metal profile for a more natural look before painting.

Illuminations

Illumination is also selected to your liking. Of the headlights, many advise to install fog lamps that will play the role of a neighbor and high beam... Turn signals and brake lights are standard. But you should not be too zealous - this optics should not disfigure the appearance of the vehicle, but, on the contrary, emphasize it. At this stage, the question of how to make an ATV from a Ural motorcycle with your own hands can be considered closed. Immediately after painting and installing optics, it can be sent for the first test drive.

So, we figured out how to make an ATV from the "Ural" with our own hands, as well as what parts are required for this.

An ATV made from a Ural motorcycle: homemade photo with a description.

A craftsman from Irkutsk, Grigory Boyarkin, built an ATV with his own hands, we offer you to see a photo and get acquainted with the design of a homemade all-terrain vehicle.

Additionally installed car generator, multi-mode transfer case and winch.

The axles are taken from the Moskvich-412 car, and with gearboxes from the cargo versions, that is, the main pairs with an increased gear ratio (4.22). For the front end, only the gearbox was taken from the bridge together with the body, the bridge in this case was literally cut - the stockings were removed, and the drives on the CV joints were adapted from Moskvich-2141. From the same model, the hubs were also used, with their alteration under two ball ones. This is how the front suspension on double (self-made) levers in combination with modified struts from a Japanese passenger car turned out. Not very calculated large moves - just for the sake of better roll stability.

Transfer case taken from Mitsubishi pajero Mini.

As for the cross-country ability, this parameter is "diversified" by the following solutions. The rear axle is suspended according to the scheme, in general, known in the world of adult off-road prototypes: an upper A-arm and lower trailing arms - with its simplicity, this reliably holds the axle and at the same time does not limit its freedom of hanging.

The rear suspension design with the upper A-arm includes lower arms matched to the standard rear suspension of a Japanese passenger car, and the lower strut mounts are moved closer to the gearbox to optimize travel.

As elastic elements, as well as in front, there are also shock-absorbing struts from McPherson suspension, however, their lower fastening is shifted to the centers of the axle stockings, which in general provides the desired angle and sufficient travel. In addition, the rear differential is "welded" - the moment is always on both wheels. Such a rigid scheme as the simplest and correct solution to the inter-wheel "blocking" was chosen deliberately - it was not supposed to drive a lot on asphalt, as well as at speeds in general.

In the manufacture of the front suspension arms, a 20 mm pipe, reinforced with a corner, was used. The continuous axle is "cut" for drives with CV joints, and the hub from the McPherson-type suspension is redesigned for a double lever, that is, for two ball bearings

Well, and the central transmission unit - the main "connected" engine with all wheels, without which it is impossible to imagine all the specifics of the design. The native 4-speed gearbox with reverse gear left a completely automotive gear set, but now a suitable "distributor" of torque along the axles was needed. There was nothing adequate in the arsenal of domestic products, but the necessary unit was found, again, in the Japanese. The transfer case from Mitsubishi Pajero Mini acted in this capacity: it fit in size, weight and operation algorithm - rear drive, four-wheel drive, overdrive and four-wheel drive with a downshift and rigid connection between the axles.

Between the "Ural" gearbox and the Japanese razdatka there is a gear unit of the original production, it reverses the rotation and at the same time acts as an additional reduction (1: 1.5) gear in the transmission

But it is not possible to dock this razdatka with the "Ural" box just like that, including because of the rotation mismatch - direct connection with the output shaft would make the "quadric" go backwards. But don't turn the engine around! Everything is decided by the original intermediate block gears, which not only "turned" the rotation of the transfer case in the right direction (that is, changed the reverse), but also became an additional reduction (1: 1.5) gear in the transmission.

The "welded" rear differential, of course, affects the handling - the ATV is "endowed with understeer", but in typical operating conditions this effect is almost not manifested and does not interfere

The transfer case itself, in contrast to the location once under the bottom of the "donor", is arranged almost vertically, the cardan flanges go out in the center of the bridges, while the transfer case does not look hanging low - just here its successful combination with a high-position "flat" opposed box played. And now you don't have to worry about the lack of traction even in high gear. transfer case, and the lowering fully provides such in difficult situations.

During the construction of the ATV, the electrical part underwent a complete "upgrade". The ignition is converted to contact-transistor, the switch and the coil are used from domestic cars, but the 65 Amp generator and the electric starter are adapted from the Japanese, and before that the engine had only a "foot" starter. By the way, the introduction of an electric starter alone required a considerable amount of work and was achieved by means of a wreath from the Buran snowmobile. Spark plugs are selected iridium. A more powerful battery and a generator were also calculated for the installation of a 1.5 ton winch.

Starter taken from toyota engine 3S.

Since it was not supposed to drive at speeds, it was not necessary to rely on reliable natural cooling of the air engine. That is, without forced airflow to go off-road and there is nothing to think about. And if in cold weather (in winter, equipment is also used) this is not so important, then in summer it is very. Therefore, before the "collapse of the blocks" of the cylinders, an electric cooling fan appeared, with forced activation. It looks not very powerful (before that it worked in the air conditioning system of the Corolla 100), but as the author assured, its performance is quite sufficient even without additional diffusers.

The winch is quick-detachable, its transfer from the front bracket to the rear is a matter of minutes

And yet power steering became the crown of the electrical work. Taking into account the size of the wheels, turning the steering wheel here in ruts and on "heavy soils" with just the force of your hands is exhausting. Installing the classic "hydraulics" is unreasonably difficult and cumbersome. It would be optimal - an electric amplifier, but how to implement this idea? And here again the Japanese car industry came to the rescue, namely the compact Suzuki Ignis, where the electric power steering has been used for a long time, with the location of the gear motor on the steering shaft suitable for this case.

An ATV from a store is not a pleasure available to everyone. Therefore, many craftsmen make quadrics with their own hands. And in this article we will tell you about the most interesting ones.

In the business of making an ATV, everything that can be found in the garage and nearby can be useful. Each vehicle hand-made is unique and individual, therefore it is difficult to talk about drawings and diagrams.

Few people describe in detail the process of building their offspring, which makes it extremely difficult to find specific information. But there are also exceptions.

How to make an ATV with your own hands

in 2012, the talented designer S. Pletnev shared the drawings and nuances of the construction of his brainchild.

What was used in the design of the vehicle:

Front and rear wheels from Niva Chevrolet 15 inches
Engine a-m Oka
Oka gearbox
Interwheel reducers from rear axles VAZ "classics"
CV JOINT from the car VAZ-2108, 12 pieces
Fuel tank, 20L canister
Passenger support from Oka's headrest
Clutches from the Oka
Ural motorcycle steering wheel
Instrument panel from the car Oka

The main technical characteristics of the ATV:

ATV drawings:

The transmission is made of AvtoVAZ units with some modifications. For example, a chain drive was used instead of the main pair to reduce speed and increase torque.

Interwheel gearboxes are borrowed from the classics, the axle shafts are removed and replaced with CV joints from front drive vase. Also, constant velocity joints are used in other transmission units.

Independent suspension on triangular cross levers. Shock absorbers from the Oka.

Self-made muffler of 2 sections, insulated with asbestos.

The body kit is made of fiberglass. It took 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer and the same amount of hardener to create such a plastic. 15 meters of fiberglass and 5 meters of glass mat.

ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

Bumpers and kenguryatniki are welded from 20mm round tubes.

Photo of the finished ATV: