11.09.2018

- compact car of the American company Ford. The second generation of this model was produced from 2005 to 2011, during this time in the CIS it managed to win the title of "people's car" due to its low cost, ease of maintenance and practicality. Despite its middle age, this generation of Focus is a very interesting option for motorists who are looking for a reliable and reliable inexpensive car with mileage. But what difficulties can you face during the operation of this model and what you should pay attention to before buying it on secondary market, I will tell you in this article.

Specifications Ford Focus 2

Class and body type: (C) 1 - hatchback, 2 - sedan, 3 - station wagon;

Body dimensions (L x W x H - mm), 1 - 4337 x 1839 x 1500; 2 - 4488 x 1840 x 1497; 3 - 4458 x 1839 x 1501;

Wheelbase, mm - 2640;

Minimum turning radius, m - 5.2;

Ground clearance, mm - 155;

Tire size - 195/65 R15;

Volume fuel tank, l - 55;

Curb weight, kg: 1 - 1257; 2 - 1195; 3 - 1340;

Full weight, kg: 1 - 1740; 2 - 1735; 3 - 1895;

Trunk capacity, l: 1 - 385; 2 - 467; 3 - 482 (1525)

Options - Comfort, Titanium, Ghia, Trend.

Weaknesses and disadvantages Ford Focus 2

Body:

Paintwork - due to the age of this model, the ideal state paintwork body is most likely the result of a recent body repairrather than careful operation. When examining a car, you need to understand that dull paint color, chips, scratches and sills sandblasted in the lower part are often signs of natural aging. Many copies on the secondary market already have refurbished paintwork of problem parts. Given the age and the price tag for the second generation of the Focus, in most cases, restoration work is not done in the best services, so when choosing a car, you need to be very responsible for inspecting the body so as not to get expensive repairs. If we talk about weaknesses, then it is worth noting the front bumper, hood and trunk lid, since it is in these places that problems with paintwork appear most quickly.

Chromium - decorative chrome-plated elements become covered with bubbles after several winters.

Metal - the body of the Focus 2 is completely galvanized, thanks to which it resists the onslaught of redhead disease well. However, given the age of the car, there may be certain problems. When inspecting a car, first of all, you need to inspect the places of contact between the bumper and body elements, the trunk lid, sills, door edges and the front of the hood. Particularly noteworthy is the decorative plastic trim with the branded emblem on the trunk lid, since rust appears underneath first.

Locks - one of the most vulnerable spots is the bonnet lock, as it has a very unfortunate location and is exposed to moisture, dirt and reagents, which is why it quickly turns sour and stops working. It is possible to extend the life of the lock, but for this you need to periodically flush it special means (WD-40, etc.) or replace the lock from plastic to metal, the best option considered a castle from Ford Mondeo third generation. With the arrival of cold weather, the touch button for opening the trunk lock may begin to malfunction - it freezes due to moisture entering it. Not renowned for reliability and central locking, its incorrect operation leads to the fact that in addition to blocking all doors, the gas tank flap is also blocked.

Wiper fluid hose - often flies off its mount and fills in candle wells and cylinders.

Optics - on pre-styling versions of the car, the headlights are prone to fogging. The problem is eliminated by applying a sealant. On sedans, the optics installed on the trunk lid may suddenly stop working. The reason - the wiring harness responsible for power supply breaks. It would seem that a simple replacement of bulbs in the headlights, for an inexperienced motorist, in fact, may require a lot of time and nerves, since for this procedure you will have to remove and disassemble the headlights.

Electronics - when inspecting the car, it is imperative to check the serviceability of the backlighting (contacts are oxidized), the trunk lock (the wiring harness breaks), heating of the outside mirrors (threads burn out).

Weaknesses of power units

1.4 and 1.6 liters.Duratec 16VSigma (Zetec-SE):

The weakest engine in the Ford Focus 2 line is not often found, since it was installed only in basic versions of a car. If we talk about its reliability, the mechanics praise this motor for the fact that it practically does not have congenital sores. If you decide to purchase a Focus with just such an engine, you need to be careful when choosing a car, since a significant part of such cars have worked in taxi fleets and have practically exhausted their service life. Motors 1.4 and 1.6 duratec ti-vct 115 hp do not have hydraulic lifters, therefore, it is necessary to adjust the valves every 100-150 thousand km. As for the weak points of these units, here we can highlight the unreliability of the thermostat and the right engine mount, which, when worn, increases vibrations.

Another childhood disease of engines is triplet, there may be several reasons for this ailment: one of the spark plugs, high-voltage wires, an idle speed regulator (if idle), an ignition coil or a gasoline pump are faulty. Heavy contamination is also a common cause of erratic engine performance. throttle... On a 115-strong engine, phase shifter couplings (there are two of them) do not differ in reliability. The timing belt has a belt with a declared replacement interval of every 150,000 km. However, experienced Focus owners recommend replacing the belt and rollers every 80-100 thousand kilometers. The declared engine resource is 250,000 km, in practice, they are nursed up to 350,000 km.

1.8 l.Duratec-HE /MZRL8:

It is the development of Japanese engineers of the Mazda concern. The main problem of this engine is unstable idling (rpm float). In most cases, it is possible to eliminate the ailment by installing firmware from a two-liter engine. Often, owners also complain about the difficulty in starting the unit. Cleaning the throttle valve helps to solve the problem. A reliable metal chain is used in the timing drive of this motor. And although the chain is designed for the entire service life of the unit, there are examples on which, after 150,000 km of run, it began to stretch a little, and by 170-200 thousand km it needed to be replaced. It is quite simple to check the circuit, you need to "gas" a little on a cold engine and listen if there is a "rumbling" sound or crackling when the gas is released. The presence of extraneous sounds is a sure signal about the upcoming costs of replacing the chain.

Not renowned for their reliability gaskets valve cover and cylinder heads, as a rule, are 100-150 thousand km, they dry out and begin to leak oil. This motor did not pass by such problems as triplet, vibrations, the appearance of various knocks and noises, the fragility of the ignition coils, high-voltage wires and a gasoline pump. As with weaker units, it is quite often (once every 40-60 thousand km) that the throttle valve and the EGR valve are required to be cleaned. On a car with a mileage of 100,000 km, oil consumption begins to increase, the rate is up to 200 grams per 1000 km, if the rate is exceeded, you need to visit the service as soon as possible so as not to get expensive repairs. As a rule, there is only one reason - the occurrence of the piston rings. This trouble most often befalls owners who save on oil or overheat the engine. The declared resource of the engine is 350,000 km, but as practice has shown, with proper maintenance, it can last up to 500,000 km.

Duratec HE 2.0 / MZR LF:

Structurally, this is the same 1.8, but with larger diameter cylinders. If we compare this engine with more weak unit, then it looks preferable: more elastic, more powerful, works quieter, but at the same time it has the same fuel consumption and is devoid of the problem of unstable idle... A reliable metal chain (resource - 200-250 thousand km) is used in the timing drive. The disadvantages of this motor include the unreliability of the oil seals camshaft and a thermostat (runs less than 100,000 km). During operation, it is necessary to periodically check the condition of the spark plug wells and if oil appears in them, it is necessary to urgently tighten the valve cover mounting bolts or replace its gasket.

For 120-150 km of run, valve clearance adjustment is required, since hydraulic lifters were not installed on this motor. At the same mileage, replacement of the upper hydraulic engine mount is required. Closer than 200,000 km, the intake manifold flap control valve becomes unusable. Symptoms - traction disappears after 3000 rpm, and lights up on the instrument panel check indicator Engine. If the generator fails (it serves about 150,000 km), it is better to refuse further movement on the battery, since after that it will most likely be necessary to reanimate the engine control unit. The resource of the motor to the capital is on average 400-450 thousand km.

Diesel:

Diesel engines Ford Focus 2 have more significant problems in comparison with gasoline units. Most of them are caused not so much by the reliability of the units themselves as by the quality of our diesel fuel and poor service. In order for the motor not to present unpleasant surprises for as long as possible, it must be regularly and most importantly serviced with high quality - it is recommended to carry out maintenance after 5000-10,000 km. When using low-quality fuel, you need to be ready for an expensive repair or replacement of the injection pump, fuel injectors, particulate filter, EGR valve. On a run of 150-200 thousand km, a dual-mass flywheel is asked for replacement. If jerks appear when starting off or a characteristic rattling, it is not worth delaying the repair, since the elimination of the consequences of destruction is very expensive.

Quite common is the problem of depressurization of the intake duct in the area between the intercooler and the turbocharger. On cars with high mileage, it will be useful to check the camshaft position sensor. A 1.6 engine after 100,000 km has a high probability of turbine lubrication problems. If the ailment is not noticed in time, you can get to replace the expensive turbocharger. In a 2.0 TDCi engine, a common problem is oil leakage through the camshaft seal. Despite the considerable list of problem areas, it is worth recognizing that Ford diesels are less problematic than similar units of competitors.

Transmission reliability

For Ford Focus 2, two types of gearboxes were available - a 5-speed manual (MTX-75 and IB5) and a 4-speed automatic (4F27E). The most powerful diesel version (2.0 l. 136 hp) was equipped with a 6-speed manual and automatic transmission, but such cars were not officially supplied to us.

Mechanics:

MTX-75— was installed with the most powerful engines in the range (1.8 and 2.0 liters) and is the most reliable transmission of this model. Of the shortcomings of the box, only the current oil seals and gear shift rod seals can be noted. If the problem is not corrected for a long time, this will lead to a decrease in the oil level in the transmission and accelerated wear of the shafts and gear rims. The clutch on average nurses about 120,000 km. But the release bearing may be asked for replacement after 50,000 km.

IB5 - is the most problematic transmission. Problems with it appear early enough on a run of 40-50 thousand km - it knocks out 2nd and 5th gears due to weak synchronizers. Later, at 80-100 thousand km, the satellites axis in the differential broke off, followed by a crankcase breakdown. By 120,000 km, the input shaft bearing may howl if it is not replaced by 150,000 mileage, it wedges. If you do decide to buy a car with such a transmission, get ready to change it to MTX75 in the future.

Automatic transmission :

4F27E - is sufficiently reliable and automatic transmission gear. Oil is filled in it for the entire service life, but some services recommend changing it at least once every 100,000 km. If you do not arrange a race at traffic lights, then the automatic transmission will delight you with trouble-free operation for a very long time. Vulnerable places of the machine are the valve body, pressure sensors and pressure regulator solenoids, often they need to be replaced by 150-170 thousand kilometers.

The reliability of the suspension, brakes and steering on the Ford Focus 2

The Ford Focus 2 suspension has an unusual design for golf-class cars: MacPherson struts are traditionally used in the front, and a multi-link in the back (related models have a beam). Thanks to this arrangement, the chassis is sufficiently balanced for both swallowing bumps and active steering. As for the reliability of the suspension, it is quite strong, and its main elements have a good resource (about 100,000 km). Spoil the impression of chassis car can only thrust bearings racks, the resource of which often does not exceed 70,000 km.

The resource of the original elements of the front suspension:

• Support bearings - 40-80 thousand km.
• Stabilizer struts - up to 50 thousand km
• Stabilizer bushings - 60-80 thousand km
• Hub bearings - up to 70-90 thousand km (change assembled with the hub)
• Ball joints - 90-120 thousand km. The original is delivered only complete with a lever and silent blocks. To save money, many install an analogue - it changes separately from the lever
• Shock absorbers - 120-150 thousand km
• SHRUS - more than 150 thousand km

Resource of original elements rear suspension:

The service life of the Ford Focus 2 rear suspension elements will largely depend on driving style and operating conditions. If the car spends most of the time on the asphalt, the levers and silent blocks of the rear suspension will last long enough - 150,000 km. When traveling frequently back roads their resource will be almost half as much - up to 100,000 km. If the suspension begins to publish extraneous sounds it is better to go over it completely, if you do not want to visit the service station every week.

• The stabilizer struts serve about 70 thousand km
• Shock absorbers - 110-130 thousand km
• Hub bearings are practically eternal (resource over 200 thousand km). On pre-styling cars (manufactured before 2008), there were cases when the rear hub broke out on the go along with the wheel.

Steering:

The steering system Ford Focus 2 uses a mechanical rack equipped with an electro-hydraulic or hydraulic booster, depending on the modification. As experience has shown, the rail is quite reliable and should not cause problems up to 200,000 km. But the amplifier can start to spoil the nerves early enough (after 60,000 km). At the power steering, with the arrival of severe frosts, the bypass valves may freeze due to the appearance of condensation. To protect yourself from possible troubles, it is recommended to change the working fluid every 40-50 thousand km (selected according to Vin code). The problem of liquid leaks from high pressure pipes is quite common. The weak point of the electric booster is the pump control board, the replacement of which costs 700-900 cu. After 60,000 km, the high pressure hose may begin to leak at the junction of the connection with the rail. Closer to 150,000 km, amplifier bearings are asked for replacement. The disease is manifested by howling when turning the steering wheel. After 200,000 km, the pump may stop working altogether for one of two reasons - wear of the electric motor winding or a burnt-out transistor.

Consumables resource:

• Steering tips - 50-80 thousand km
• Steering rods - up to 100 thousand km

Problem areas of the interior and electrics Ford Focus 2

Salon Ford Focus 2, although made of inexpensive materials, leaves a very pleasant impression. Of the shortcomings of the interior, one can only note the appearance of squeaks on a Russian-assembled car in the cold season (on European versions of a car, this problem is less common). Most of all, the front panel, instrument panel, seat adjustment mechanisms and trunk upholstery are annoying. Also worth noting is the weak insulation of the wheel arches. The owners, whose height exceeds 190 cm, blame the lack of legroom. There is also a lack of space for a passenger sitting behind a tall driver.

As for the electrics, there are no serious problems here, unless, of course, the hands of an artisanal master were applied to it. TO problem areas can only be attributed to malfunctions in the dashboard (appear chaotically, and then go out error messages). Most often, a malfunction is caused by oxidation of contacts or a burnt out processor. Also a common problem is the failure of the temperature sensor in the cabin and the resistor responsible for limiting the speed of the stove motor.

What's the bottom line?

As befits the present people's car has an optimal price-performance ratio and is one of the most attractive models in the aftermarket. With careful use and proper maintenance this car for many years will serve faithfully, and give only positive emotions. Despite the high level of reliability, the choice of a used Ford Focus 2 must be taken very responsibly, since cars of this model often work in taxi services and corporate fleets, in which they are mercilessly exploited without proper maintenance, which means there is a chance to run into a killed copy. When choosing a car, it is better to give preference to restyled versions released after 2008, since most of their "sores" have been eliminated.

If you have experience in operating Ford Focus 2, please tell us what problems and difficulties you had to face. Perhaps it is your feedback that will help the readers of our site when choosing a car.

Reading 5 min. Views 228 Published 11 March 2016

Ford focus II with mileage in our time is quite difficult to choose - the supply on the market is too large.

The most popular in the class of the Russian automotive market at the end of the 2000s was the Ford Focus II model. She had a localized assembly in Russia. Thanks to the low price tag, the Ford Focus II could compete with models such as Mazda3, Peugeot 308, Hyundai elantra other. Today, there is a high demand for used copies of the Ford Focus 2 model. In this article we will tell you what to look for when choosing a used Ford Focus II car.

History of the second generation Ford Focus

The world debut of the Ford Focus II model took place in 2004. From the second generation, the model called it ceased to be global. The European version of this model differed from the American body design. However, already in the third generation Ford Focus American automobile concern returned to unification. The Ford Focus II was better than its predecessor in every way. Its body was longer and wider. She offered more powerful engines richer equipment. Official sales of the Ford Focus II model in Russia started in 2005. In 2008, the Russian market received a restyled ford version Focus II. Restyling of the Ford Focus II model brought new front optics and a new radiator grill. The interior of the Ford Focus II has received a lot more soft plastic.

Ford Focus II offer in the Russian market

Thanks to the Russian assembly and the unprecedented popularity of the Ford Focus II model during the years of production, today there is a fairly huge supply of used copies of this model in the secondary car market. Potential buyers do not rush to purchase ford cars Focus II. You can choose suitable items among huge amount offers on the market. As you know, the Ford Focus II model was produced in three body types: hatchback, sedan and station wagon. In the Russian secondary car market, the most represented is the Ford Focus II sedan. In total, there are 46% sedans Ford Focus II from the total number of cars of this model. Next comes the five-door hatchback, followed by the station wagon and least of all three-door hatchbacks in our market, the Ford Focus II.

After restyling in ford showroom Focus II now has more soft plastic.

In the used car market, the most popular versions of the Ford Focus II model are those with a 1.6-liter petrol engine rated at 115 horse power and a 1.8-liter engine with 125 horsepower. These versions were equipped with a manual transmission only. It is worth noting that the demand for such versions is great due to the solid dynamics that manual transmissions provide. The version with an automatic transmission, although it is equipped with a two-liter petrol engine with a capacity of 145 horsepower, does not show solid dynamics at all compared to other competitors on the market. There were also versions with a 2.0-liter engine with 145 horsepower and a manual transmission. However, they are quite rare on russian market... In addition, it is rare to find instances with a low-power 1.4-liter gasoline engine with 85 horsepower and diesel versions with a 1.8-liter turbodiesel with 115 horsepower.

It is worth noting that sellers like to twist the mileage on used copies of the Ford Focus II model. This model was very popular among taxi drivers and middle managers. Owner Ford The Focus II was supposed to travel at least 20,000 kilometers per year. Accordingly, 7- and 8-year-old copies of the Ford Focus 2 should have a mileage of 150-170 thousand kilometers. But in fact, they are offered with a range of 100,000 kilometers. That is why, when choosing a Ford Focus II model, you need to look not at the odometer, but at the general technical condition.

When choosing a Ford Focus II, first of all, pay attention to the technical condition, owners usually twist the runs.

Typical problems and breakdowns during the operation of Ford Focus II

In the table below, we present typical problems and breakdown of the Ford Focus II model during operation.

Car part	Breakdowns and problems
Body	Despite russian assembly Ford Focus II models for a full production cycle, the quality of the paintwork and anti-corrosion treatment of the body is quite good. Rust can only appear at the joints of the fenders and the rear bumper. If corrosion appears elsewhere, it is likely that the vehicle was in an accident.
Engine	1.4- and 1.6-liter gasoline engines have a timing belt drive. The 1.8 and 2.0 liter engines use a timing chain. At the same time, the timing belt has a resource of about 150,000 kilometers. If the belt breaks, the engine valves bend. It is believed that the timing chain does not need to be replaced at all on Ford engines. However, after 150,000 kilometers, the chain will stretch solidly. From the factory, platinum spark plugs are installed in the Ford engine, the resource of which is 120,000 kilometers. Accordingly, if the engine is set to not original candles ignition, the vehicle's mileage is likely to exceed 120,000 kilometers. Engine oil in such motors, it is necessary to change every 20 thousand kilometers. It is better to change the brake fluid every 2 years. The coolant generally changes once every 240,000 kilometers.
Transmission	The five-speed manual transmissions of the Ford Focus 2 model had two versions for low and medium power engines. The manual transmission for the 1.4 and 1.6 liter engines is less reliable. Very often in such manual transmissions the input shaft bearing and synchronizers fail. The second version of the mechanic is considered non-killable. Its resource exceeds the mileage of even the very first copies of the Ford Focus 2 model today. The four-speed automatic transmission for the Ford Focus 2 is also considered to be very reliable. It is out of service, that is transmission oil it is not necessary to replace in the checkpoint.
Chassis	The weakest rear suspension unit is the arms. Their resource does not exceed 70,000 kilometers. Steering rack on Focus 2 walks long enough and is not afraid of dirt roads.
Electrician	If artisanal craftsmen did not interfere with the wiring of the car, then it will last a very long time and will not create problems for the owner.

The salon is spacious. Kinks and kinks are a thing of the past, but I confess I don't miss them at all. New interior albeit stricter, but clearly more functional. And it looks more like a cockpit. Individuals will love it. The plastic is soft, the joints are smooth, the buttons are comfortable, you can't find fault with the gaps.

Nikolay Svistun, portal site, 2005

A bit of history

The second generation Ford Focus was born in 2004. Unlike the first "Focus", the second was no longer a global car in the full sense of the word: in the USA, the Ford Focus 2 is a completely different model with its own design. Ford will return to unification only in 2011, when the third "Focus" debuts. Ford Focus 2 turned out to be noticeably larger than its predecessor and more conservative in appearance. Russian sales of the model began in 2005, and the restyled version reached our showrooms in 2008. The exterior of the updated car has become much more interesting due to the expressive trapezoid of the radiator grill and new optics of a complex shape. Even more soft plastic appeared in the cabin and a fashionable red lighting began to play.

Market supply

There are a lot of second "Focuses" on the market: every day hundreds of announcements about their sales are published on Russian Internet sites. Therefore, you should not rush into the purchase - look for a car that will suit you 100%. The most common body on our market is a sedan. There is a five-door hatchback with a slight lag. There are noticeably fewer station wagons, and three-door hatches are a rarity.

Russians, as you know, are lovers of fast driving, and Ford Focus can show at least some dynamics only with a manual transmission. The most common versions are relatively inexpensive, but high-spirited configurations with 1.6 (115 hp) and 1.8 (125 hp) engines and manual transmission. Much less common are cars with an "automatic" and a 2.0-liter engine (145 hp) and a completely "boring" 1.6-liter engine, moreover, derated in this version from 115 to 100 hp. Well, and absolutely exotic - the most dynamic "Focuses" with a 2.0-liter engine (about the same 145 hp) and mechanics, the most modest 1.4-liter (85 hp) models with manual transmission and diesel versions with a 1.8 engine liters (115 hp), again with mechanics.

Not everyone will dare to change seats in the car. Therefore, their quality is especially pleasing. Here I would gladly raise them to the rank of dogma. And I would have included it in all textbooks on orthopedics. Optimal distribution of loads with a minimum of adjustments: you get settled instantly and do not load your brain and hands by groping for numerous levers and buttons. Bravo!

Nikolay Svistun, portal site, 2005

Average prices

"Focus" of the second generation is getting cheaper quite smoothly. A noticeable difference (on average about 45,000 rubles) is only between 2007 and 2008 cars. Which, however, is not surprising: in 2008, the model underwent restyling, and more modern looking models are expected to be valued higher in the market.

* In the vast majority of cars sold in the secondary market, mileage is twisted. On average, a Russian driver drives about 20,000 kilometers a year. Therefore, a mileage of 60,000 km for a three-year-old is quite real, but 90,000 for a six-year-old is already suspicious. Therefore, do not take odometer data on cars over three years old too seriously. Pay attention to the technical condition.

Typical breakdowns and operational problems

Ford Focus 2 as a whole, the car is very reliable and unpretentious in maintenance. Problematic cars, of course, are found, but only if the owners exploited them in a tough mode: they constantly twisted the engine, conquered the off-road and neglected regular maintenance. To save yourself from unnecessary headaches in the future, here are the first things you should pay attention to:

Body

The quality of the metal and paintwork is good and the body is sturdy. The only weak point is the joints of the rear bumper with the fenders, where chips are often formed. Even on a four to five year old specimen, there should be no corrosion anywhere. If it is noticeable, it means that the element was clearly painted after the accident. It will be useful to remind once again that the entire body during the purchase must be checked with a micrometer for the thickness of the paint in order to filter out broken copies.

Engine

On motors 1.4 and 1.6, the gas distribution mechanism has a belt drive, and on 1.8 and 2.0 it is chain driven. The belt lasts a long time, it should be changed no more than once every 150,000 kilometers (in no case should it be tightened, because in the event of a break, you can get to replace bent valves), and its condition is a good indicator of the true mileage, which, we repeat, very often twist. The test procedure is very simple: at the end of the engine block, find a soft plastic cover to protect the belt from dirt. Fold it back and look: it's easy to distinguish the old from the new. The timing chain on engines 1.8 and 2.0 is installed for the entire service life, however, after 150 thousand runs, it begins to gradually stretch. Ask the seller to start the car cold and turn off the gas. There should be no "rumbling" sound or crackling when discharging gas. If there is one, the car is heavily "rolled", no matter what numbers are displayed on the odometer. The Focus motors do not have a tendency to oil fumes either. And in general, they do not cause any problems if you do not often "twist" them and change consumables in a timely manner. By the way, the original spark plugs are platinum here and have a very long service life - up to 120,000 kilometers. When inspecting a car, be sure to unscrew one candle and see: if it is not the original, then the mileage is clearly more than 120,000 km. But it is hardly worth buying a Focus with a small motor, especially if you want it to run a little. You will not notice the difference in fuel consumption, moreover: weak engines you have to work more actively with the gas pedal, which is why gasoline consumption will only grow, all other things being equal.

Transmission

Focuses of the second generation were equipped with two types of 5-speed manual transmissions. For cars with engines 1.4 and 1.6, there was one modification, for 1.8 and 2.0 - another. The first, for low-power motors, is less reliable. When buying a car with such power units it makes sense to check the box very carefully: listen to the hum in motion with the radio and the stove turned off, make sure that all gears are turned on clearly - here synchronizers and the input shaft bearing often fail. As for cars with powerful "engines", their mechanical boxes are practically indestructible. You can break them, except that constantly operating the car in a forced mode. "Automatic" on the Ford Focus 2 is also very reliable: all versions were equipped with the time-tested American 4-speed gearboxes. They are filled with oil for the entire service life, and if the owner did not have the ambitions of the driver, then the automatic transmission will last a very long time.

Suspension

The chassis of the Ford Focus is very good. It is balanced for both swallowing bumps and very active taxiing. Weakness - rear suspension arms, which are recommended to be changed every 60,000 - 70,000 kilometers. Many owners make do with half measures and change only silent blocks, but on broken levers the resource of "rubber bands" is greatly reduced and new ones will have to be installed in 10-20 thousand. The rest of the chassis are very durable. The steering rack "runs" for a very long time: it is designed in such a way that it practically does not deform even with frequent overcoming of very bumpy roads.

Electrician

As such, there are no serious problems with the electrician at the "Focuses", unless the artisanal masters had time to "work" with it. Examine carefully engine compartment on the subject of "collective farm" twists from electrical tape - they should not be. The factory connectors are of very high quality: almost all are silver-plated and in some places even gold-plated.

Scheduled maintenance

The Ford Focus MOT takes place every 20,000 kilometers, although it will not be superfluous to change the oil in the middle of the service run. The brake fluid is changed every 2 years. The clutch serves at least 100,000 kilometers. Antifreeze does change every 10 years or every 240,000 kilometers.

Maintenance cost from authorized dealers

The upkeep of a Ford Focus, when compared to its class competitors (especially Japanese ones), is not expensive at all. The frequency of maintenance is two times less than that of Toyota! Their cost, even if done at official dealers, is also very low. It is worth making a reservation here, however, that Ford dealers do not directly give prices for scheduled maintenance and give information only on the cost of individual work, as well as the procedure for replacing consumables. Definitely, if you turn to them with a specific car, then the price will be higher: a planned check of the units will also be added, as well as the consumables themselves.

Mileage	Work	Cost of work (without spare parts)
20 000		720 RUB
40 000		RUB 2,630
60 000	Oil change and oil filter in the engine, air filter	720 RUB
80 000	Changing the engine oil and oil filter, air filter, brake fluid, spark plugs	RUB 2,630
100 000	Changing the oil and oil filter in the engine, air filter, antifreeze	RUB 1,550
120 000	Change of oil and oil filter in the engine, air filter, brake fluid, drive belt auxiliary units, air conditioner belt, timing belt, spark plugs	RUB 8 630

Prices for some parts

Detail	Prices for the original, rub.	Analogs prices, rub.
Clutch assembly (without release bearing)	9 900 - 123 000	3 300 - 5 200
Front brake pads	1 950 - 3 100	1 100 - 2 400
Front right shock absorber	4 200 - 6 100	2 100 - 6 700
Starter	6 800 - 9 300	5 800 - 8 000
Fuel filter	293 - 600	138 - 630
Air filter	500 - 550	120 - 560
Oil filter	250 - 320	90 - 420
Cooling pump	3 700 - 4 700	1 120 - 1 500
Front bumper	5 100 - 9 800	1 400 - 3 700
Timing belt	4 100 - 4 500	1 200 - 4 000
Rear arm bushing	920 - 980	200 - 800
Lower transverse suspension arm	2 100 - 3 500	400 - 1 400
Spring-loaded suspension arm	1 700 - 2 600	3 400 - 3 600
Boomerang thrust	4 700 - 6 300	1 300 - 4 100

I hope my report will help you to do right choice when buying a used car and / or when servicing

for today mileage 201600 km. car end of 2010, titanium, white hatch, capacity 1.6 115 hp Vsevolzhsk

i operate the car every day. I drove 1200 kg on a trailer once, in the cabin I drove 500 kg, I drive on different routes, the average speed on the highway is 130-140 km / h. I do not force the car, but I do not regret too much. she copes.

what did I do in total:
40 tkm - pads supplied by TRW
50 t.km - stabilizer rack, changed both, put Febi
120 tkm - replacement of fluids - for yourself, as they say
140 tkm - the clutch release died, changed the clutch vsbore, clutch original, disc and basket Sachs
150 tkm - replacement of timing and drive units, all original
150 tkm - replacement of discs and pads in a circle, put everything TRW
180 t.km - I was driving a crumbling battery, the brushes in the generator burned out, I changed it myself. brushes - 80 rubles, picked up in the store by size, also bought a new battery.
190 tkm - stabilizer struts, bought cheap ones, already rattling. miser pays twice

what to do now:
salentbloki in the rear suspension, a large salentblok of the front left arm, the oporniki creaked the other day, sometimes creak, stabilizer struts, the stove sometimes whistles. I also broke the engine boot under the bumper in the forest, and the PTF failed, first one then the second, perhaps the case is in the light bulbs, until I looked.
also damp drive shaft seals. 3 years. until the hands reach. I know that the disease.
the rail sometimes pokes at turns on the plates, sometimes it doesn't ... I don't pay attention ...

rubber:
winter first two seasons velcro Conti, then bridge spikes ayskruzer 7000 - excellent tires, for 3 seasons the spikes are almost all in place. on the second car nordman 4 - after 3 seasons there are almost no studs left, the runs are equivalent
summer - from the Michelin factory, noisy, but did not wear off, gave it to my brother on some kind of run. put Kumho KU31 - very quiet, soft, super grip on water, track - did not know what it was. now nordman sx - erases faster than bears but slower than kumho, not directed, throws in ruts with water after 100 km / h, also comfortable, on cut asphalt it is much noisier than kumho.

glass:
with heating and sensors, hit a cobblestone, put the Chinese XYG - it was not long enough, the stones are all cracked, the heating does not work in places, I'm going to change soon

lkp:
the saber has everything ideally, no chips, the saber is in color. there is a large stone chip on the hood, slightly brown for 3 years. the corners of the rear fenders are slightly peeled off, almost imperceptibly, and this is after removing the bumper to install the towbar. before that everything was fine. in general, there are many flaws on the car, all sorts of villains rubbed themselves in. does not affect the speed.

consumption:
now 8.1 is average. every day there and back Podolsk-Moscow metro Belyaevo. on the highway if you go 90, then less than 6 liters. I don’t ride like that, so about 8.

in the cabin:
not a single button is worn, not worn, the pedals do not shine, the steering wheel looks quite decent for its run, the plastic does not rattle, does not creak, the gearbox cover is torn, a friend promised to sew it out of good leather. seats of course zachuhannye, especially mine, because I constantly drive something. in the spring for dry cleaning.

then: original iridium candles every 50 t.km, first formula f oil, now castrol-ford 5w-30, cabin filter 2 times a year, air with oil change. I cleaned the throttle twice, I want it again, but my hands do not reach.

interesting but fact:
shock absorber struts, hubs, ball, steering, etc. - still alive ... on a Hyundai of 100 t.km, the hodovka was completely sorted out

the result:
the car is worth the money. fast comfortable reliable. I have never regretted what I bought.

Hey. Today we have FF2 and I want to sort out a few questions for you. And I will argue a lot.
1. Why painted cars are bad? Or just painted bodywork?
2. What do C-class cars look like when they are about 10 years old?
3. How to tell if the car is well painted?
4. How important is the mileage of up to 100,000 km for a used car?

I must say right away that there won't be many photos today. Why? Partly covered here - Do I like reading more than watching? Where is the photo and text? But today I will partially write only a theory. Why again without a photo? Because if you watch the video, you will see so many things that even 1000 photos are not enough for it ... and there are many moments that are not conveyed through photos ... but let's talk about everything in order.
They asked me to pick up a Ford Focus 2 on the machine for about 350,000 rubles. Alive, with a minimum of colors, good technique and! Attention! with a mileage of about 100,000 km or a little more, and better less. I alone cannot understand what the salt is? What mark is this 100,000 km? But I will try to explain everything to you.

Naturally I did NOT take up the selection. And does this mean that I am arrogant? No, it's easier. I do not undertake to search for cars over 7 years old. Is this my whim or is it a need? Here I have to explain myself.
How much is the new FF on the machine? I will answer - 1,000,000 rubles (one million rubles) with a tail. Add there winter tires, CASCO, carpets, alarms, engine protection and more. Even with all the discounts, you will go for a loan.

What do you expect from such a car for 350,000 rubles, which is 8-10 years old?
And everyone is waiting - no colors or a couple and no more. Mileage up to 100,000 km or so. Good condition. Not many owners, native PTS and so that there are two more places left to sell normally. Not rotten, not broken, and so on.
How can I find one? I don't go to a parallel universe ... be realistic? Mileage 90% of cars in any metropolis - 15 - 25,000 km per year. And here is the indignation of many ... But this is a fact. Another 5% of cars will have even more mileage! And about 5% remains with native / honest / low mileage. Where do these cars go? A little described in this post - Dispelling the myths that I myself wrote about. Sable. Sandero. Solaris. And if such a car gets to the announcement, then the price will be appropriate (not cheap).
Everyone wants perfect car for 30% -35% of the cost of a new one. How realistic is this? Ask yourself. How much are you willing to sell your ideal car?
And I immediately offer the client to add money. No, this is not my whim, this is common sense and nothing more. But there is no more money ... buy something else? No. It remains to hope for a miracle. And I can’t find this miracle, therefore, take on the selection and review all cars in the city for free in order to understand that this is “wood”, I have no desire, you know? And you will come across the option "half wood", and for lack of a better word - BUY it best deal, my tongue will not turn. It is much more correct to look for a couple of rubbish for money, and the person himself will understand everything. Is this honest on my part? Let's figure it out.

And VK links flew. One-second-third. I went in and looked. Outbid. Another and so it is clear that the firewood. The third is similar. Refused to watch everything. Other links. Broke through everything. Mileage 80,000 km in the ad, the old ads of this car from 170,000 km. The other has 100,000 km, in those inspection 190,000 km and it was done yesterday. And so on all cars… there were beating, of course and just with restrictions on the reg actions. For my part, I have already saved the person a lot of dough. But I understand that even if there is an option that is good at first glance, it is not a fact that it will be so when you come to watch.

And then I announced. 3 owners, in fact 2, one of the owners outbid, but he registered the car. The bases are clean. 2009, automatic, 1.6L. No road accident on the base. No arrests or anything else. The mileage in those inspection coincides (it was less than a thousand by some, but they drive a car). But the girl sells the car, which is kind of a problem. But for every rule, there is an exception, right?
And I tell the client to call yourself. Talk, communicate. Find out what's painted and other little things. Get to know everything, and decide whether to watch or not.

Why didn't I call?
There is such a moment. Firstly, I already helped a lot in punching other cars (in fact, I don't need it). Secondly, I have already learned from my mistakes. There was an incident that everything seemed to be normal, and on the phone everything was on fire, and I arrived and full of firewood. And the client expressed his opinion that I flew money to earn money, and that I was to blame for everything, I deliberately chose this one so that I could see 5 more cars later. In fact, the seller simply deceived me. Now I'm smarter, I don't take on such responsibility. And I always warn you, and they can lie to me, I am not a god, I only use the correct algorithm. And in essence, if I choose a car myself and call, this is called the selection of a car, and I also end up in the trash. Understand that everything why I have changed so much (for the worse) depends directly on my clients. And in order not to be extreme, it's easier to give up something than to be shit afterwards. Do you understand? although it hardly matters to you ...

The client called.
The girl spoke confidently, the car was checked when buying, the doors were painted, and even then without the shpak. The rest is whole. Of the jambs, only vital chips. Always served. They always did everything on time. The car is in excellent condition, as it is written in the ad. Bought it from the outbid (remember this). And they give me the go-ahead for inspection.
It should also be said that there were no photographs of the state. That is, just a photo where nothing is visible. Let's take a look already? And then he annoyed everyone with his shit ...

Here you saw my photos. Who noticed what? There is no plug in the bumper, which is under the hook? So I'll tell you that in their photos in the ad, and this was not visible! The angle of the photo was such that the right side of the bumper was invisible at all. What else did you see?
I started to inspect the car from the back.
* The rear right fender is dented.
* The chrome pad is cracked and screwed on with four self-tapping screws, you can see it in the video.
* Really vital jamb only on the edge of the rear right wing near the trunk lid, chips.
* The top trim on the boot lid is just black, not painted.

At first I thought she was cured. But when I came closer than 15 meters, I understood everything ... Let's list what was painted, what jambs and, most importantly, how it was done:
* The trunk lid is hand-painted ... with snot ... with craters ... poor ...
* The rear left wing is painted in the same way. Moreover, if you open the trunk lid, you can see that the seams have parted ... that is, everything is crooked. and I didn’t even pay attention to whether it was welded at the factory or not ... the machine was checked with a thickness gauge according to her words ... but here it is not needed, such firewood is already visible ... but once I poked the rear wing 400 microns, it didn’t become any more ... arch. And a shpak burst on it (the video shows)
* In the opening of the trunk lid, the paint falls off ... of course it is repainted.
* Rear door opening repainted (also rotting). The new paint has fallen off, you can see the factory paint under it. (everything is clear on the video)
* The middle pillar is repainted. Risk everywhere ... snot ...
* The left threshold is repainted and rotting already ... everywhere there is a terrible shagreen.
* The driver's door is repainted ... with a bunch of jambs for painting ... Risks, snot, crater.
* The rear bumper is cracked in several places, the putty falls off from it.
* The front bumper is painted with a spray can, they did not hide it during inspection. Only the right side of the bumper was painted from a cylinder, and it was the right side of the bumper that was not visible in the photo (it is necessary to decipher what is painting from a spray can?) I'm not kidding. They just blew from the balloon.
* The right threshold is jammed. Is he painted? I didn't even look.
* Repainted entire muzzle, that is, both fenders and hood. Everywhere there is risk, putty, crater, snot and everything is crooked.
* There are dents on the rear right door.
We have a whole (without jambs) - the front right door. That's all ... and then maybe I haven't noticed yet. And maybe not all the jambs described.

How do you think bad paint is considered a jamb of a car? Or is it good? It looks not too bad from 25 meters. Answer in the comment.
You may have missed a lot of things, but you understand the picture. This is not all. Naturally, everything that can be filmed was filmed. Even on the inside, the trunk lid was not normally painted (you can see it in the video).
The FF2 front fender mounting bolts are covered with hard plastic. On the left side, it does not stand still ... and the wing is rotting ... in general, everything that is painted here is rotten. Or the paint spits out, or it swelled up ...

This plastic cannot be put in place. Why? Because the mudguard is jammed behind the wing. There is a crease ... and until you do the bodywork, everything will be crooked.

But they even climbed into the wiring on this car ... in the photo it may not be very clear, but the wiring was rewound with Russian insulating tape, and no one knows what was there (even the seller). And part of the air filter housing is soldered (you can see it in the video). By the way, the TV, although not iron, but it is clear that it is painted. Whoever fumbles will understand it from the video.

Well, do you think you can convey all this with photographs? And I ran out of them for today. And you haven’t seen the salon yet… I write often that it only remains to give a shit… so this time, someone did it for me… horror… I didn’t get into the car… I didn’t ride the car. I didn't see the point in this.
We will do without the result of the inspection, but we will disassemble this car according to the questions from the beginning of the post. Here one follows from the other. What's wrong with painted cars? Or just painted bodywork?
Everything that's painted here is ROTTING. From and to, absolutely everything. And this is almost the whole car. Why is this painting good? Each of you will say that he has a well-painted car, I don’t believe that ... you have 5% of the total mass, and all these 5% are NOT focused on D2, although I know what the comments will be ... in Russia, cars are painted for sale and for sale to 90% of people. And this means as cheaply as possible, for a presentation. And what will happen to her later - nobody cares. And it's one thing if one wing is painted, you can repaint it, another thing when the whole car is with such a level of repair.
Many will say that everything is not critical here, she is 8 years old, what did you want? I call such people nothing more than shit-eaters. Not everyone wants to eat shit, but there are some. Others do urine therapy instead of taking a pill. Everyone has their own opinion, but such cars are junk (my opinion) ... its real price, it's even difficult to say what ... how much the analysis will give, so much it costs. Here's a typical example of a painted car! Good or bad, let everyone decide for himself, but to understand the level of colors, watch the video.
And many painted cars are simply broken. Not tinted, but broken, overcooked.

What do C-class cars look like when they are about 10 years old?
I must say right away that these cars are the most massive, not counting Rio and Solaris. And if everything is clear with the B class, then those who have accumulated a deposit in the C class (in some way) often do not have money to maintain even such cars. Hence the half-dead state. Even finding a C-class car in which the oil in the machine has been changed at least once is very difficult, and sometimes impossible. Everyone always leaves everything for the next owner. And the next, again, leaves everything to the next, and this happens until the car gets stuck. In Russia, everything is at random! Maybe it won't break! Maybe I can sell it!
On the other hand, people have high expectations for such cars. You often want a lot for 30% of the cost of a new one. Too much. From that and buy either "firewood", or outbid with smeared lips. This car was previously bought out. Do you understand how he sold her? I bought a beat, doused all the shoals for a pittance (that everything was rusted or fell off), count my lips smeared, and rewound the first sucker along the lower bar of the market, saying that 2 doors were repainted, the rest is whole. And to confirm his words, he poked them with a thickness gauge, in which they (the buyers) did not understand anything. Do you really need to talk about openings? About the extended B-pillar?

How to tell if a car is well painted?
In fact, almost impossible. I have written about this more than once. Usually I tell everyone this - a freshly painted car, it's almost always a hit. And if it was painted for a long time, then the jambs are either already crawled out, or everything is fine. Maybe someone remembers the post - 403. Mercedes W202. Please rate. This car was not painted yesterday, and what should be out has already come out. Therefore, I am afraid of painted cars ... especially when they have a scattering of stocks for painting, like this FF2. Each of you, of course, decides for himself. Sometimes you look, done well, 2 layers of paint, no spatula, all the fire, even the color hit. Well, is that a minus to the car? And six months later, the paint swells, and they go to repaint again ... so whether the car is well painted or bad does not mean that there will be no problems in the future. Understand this!

How important is the mileage of up to 100,000 km for a used car?
This is complete nonsense, and a relic of the scoop ... 100,000 km is the beginning of the life of many modern cars. Again, evaluate the condition of the car. You enter search criteria (on auto sales sites) 8-10 summer cars, and score the maximum mileage of 100-120,000 km? So, with a probability of 99%, you will only run into outbids, unscrupulous sellers and beating, overcooked cars, coiled runs, etc. ... and somewhere in the ads, there is an honest, serviced car, at an average price, with a couple of colors a good owner, with a mileage of 180,000 km. But when I find one like this, they twist my temple, 180,000 km? Are you out of your mind? She already had 4 capitals ... but what resource is there left? And they go, take trash with a mileage of 90,000 km on the dashboard, and shout, LOOK, I found it! Not that you're 180,000 km! I scoffed a couple of times, knocked their cars through ... there were well over 200 for everyone ... Now I don't upset people, I bought it, go, rejoice if it works out (drive).
It is much better to buy a car from a loving owner, but if he painted it, he did it for himself, and not for sale! Yes, he will tell you more about the car than me and tell you what needs to be changed soon. But such people are not held in high esteem in Russia ... and they sell a car for six months, and give it to outbid. And those, in turn, well, then you yourself know ... mileage on the dashboard is 90,000 km, not a bit, not painted and sold.
What is better than 100,000 km and riders? Or 150-200,000 km and motorists who understand and take care of cars? But 100,000 km is a psychological mark ... even in my VK group I have seen more than once that 100,000 km is junk for many ... and try to explain that the car just started to drive? And if it concerns VAG, then there are 30,000 km for many junk.

What does a mileage of 100,000 km give?
In general - NOTHING. This does not in any way indicate the condition of the car. NO! That this car is better than another or what? Better groomed with 150,000 km? And even if the mileage is native and up to 100,000 km, this suggests that the car is ideal? Maybe this is the total after the insurance, so the mileage is small? Maybe it burned, and stood for 2 years and looked for money and spare parts? The car has to drive and they drive. 8 years old this car. 8 times 15 - 25,000 km? The normal mileage of these cars is from 120,000 km to 200,000 km. So look for a normal car! Not a mileage of up to 100,000 km.

Honest 100,000 km. And honest 140,000 km. What's better with one condition?
Of course, there will not be one state. But look. Timing for FF2 - belt. For 100,000 km I have to change it once and it's time to change it again. For 140 000 km twice and buy with about a new timing.
Rubber. At 100,000 km, she is often dead, old, dear. At 140,000 km live, new, about new.
Rear suspension FF2. She dies to 100,000 km. And buy with a half-dead chassis? By 140,000 km, it will be replaced in 80% of cars.
Racks and chassis in general. 100,000 km everything is native, everything is on the way (half dead). Almost everyone has replaced 140,000 km.
And I can go on forever, but 140-160,000 km is often even more problem-free than 100,000 km. Have you thought about it? Take my Almeria. I bought it with dead summer tires (7000 rubles), but buy a little more with mileage, it would be new, right? And so on all cars. Your cherished 100,000 km will give you nothing.

In the end, more about the buyer.
Imagine the customer's surprise when I told him the state of the car? He said - Yes, I talked to her. I asked everything. She told me! How can you lie? Yes, she ... and off it went. YES, this is a used car. And there is no guarantee that the seller is lying, he may not know (not this case, of course). But on the other hand, there are zero claims to me, but only thanks. And it may not be right to punish people with a ruble, but it is effective. Very effective! When people see the real condition of these cars, maybe they really will dig a little, or they will look at other cars. I will not go to see? Someone else will go. And either the authority will work, or it will take a rollback and give such a "machine" to the client. There is a very fine line here, which is difficult to assess. I even wrote everything honestly, although I understand the indignation in the comments. Well, haipanu means little.

Will I take such cars for selection?
I am generally ready for this (I was ready before). I just tell everyone, the mileage is 150 - 200,000 km, 60% of the car will be repainted. This is the norm for such cars. But I am willing to find groomed, honest, and tinted, not beating. Who do you think agreed? Not guessing ... ZERO. Then it's easier not to take it than to be a trash picker ... there are a lot of them ... I don't want to be one of them ...

That's it for today. I believe that such a "theory" is much more important than just a car inspection, which I usually post. Although not a super post for many, it is much more useful than pouring mud on the inspected car. I hope everyone appreciates my efforts. I tried to explain a lot. Peace for everyone.

PS: there will be more post about mileage and condition. The car has already been inspected. Coiled run, before the inspection explained it, but still, the person psychologically thought that the state would be like a car with 100 tkm. And there the state is exactly 200,000 km, as there is by car. Guess if you bought it or not?