In order for the engine of a VAZ 2121 car to be always trouble-free, you need to carry out timely replacement oils. Manufacturer, this wonderful car, recommends that this operation be carried out every 15 thousand kilometers, but we know that the quality of oil on the automotive market is very low, it is often diluted with something in order to increase the volume of products sold. Many experts, including our editorial staff, recommend changing the oil in the Niva engine every 7-8 thousand kilometers.

What do we need for this operation? First of all, you need to prepare a 17 wrench or a 12 hexagon for unscrewing the plug, a container for used oil, a new oil filter and its puller (optional).

Recall that in the previous article we considered it ourselves. This operation can be performed even on the road, the main thing is to have it with you necessary tools and a new belt.

Do-it-yourself oil change in the Niva engine

1. Before changing the oil in the engine, it is required to warm up the engine to 55-70 degrees, so that the oil takes on a more fluid form. We prepare the keys you need to unscrew the plug, substitute the canister or bucket and carefully unscrew the plug. It is worth noting that the oil will be hot, so take care of your hands.

2. When the used oil is completely drained, it is required to unscrew the oil filter.

Changing the oil in the engine is an integral process of any motorist watching his iron friend. The replacement period is individual for each car, and depends on the operating conditions of the engine, power, and the oil itself.

In a VAZ 21214 "Niva" car, the engine oil changes a little more often than in other representatives of the VAZ family. This is due to the fact that the 21214 is an all-wheel drive SUV, and therefore the engine of the Niva is constantly under increased loads. So, before many owners of this model, the question arises: "What kind of oil to pour into the engine, what was it most effective?" It is to this question that we will try to find the answer in this article.

Oil for the weather

First of all, before choosing oil for cornfield 21214, pay attention to the weather conditions, or rather, the season. For example, in summer, when it is hot enough outside, the engine will heat up significantly. Unlike cars, the engine of this car will heat up much more. Therefore, pour mineral or semi-synthetic oil in an SUV engine in the summer - a big mistake.

Lubricating fluid with a low percentage of viscosity will not give the desired effect. When the cylinder block is heated, the liquid takes on the state of ordinary water, and also heats up very quickly. As a result, the oil ceases to take away heat from the engine and to create the proper pressure. After a while of such work, the crankshaft will necessarily jam.

For the summer period, it is advised to pour engine oil into the field 21214, the viscosity of which will be indicated at least 20W-40, and no more than 25W-50. This is the ideal viscosity, at which the crankshaft will rotate freely without creating unnecessary load, and the engine temperature will not exceed 95 degrees.

In winter, more serious problems arise with the choice of oil. In this case, it should not be too rare, so that when exposed to cold it does not become covered with ice, and not very thick, so that when the engine is started on a cold one, the crankshaft can make the first revolution.

For Niva 21214, most oil will do, the viscosity of which will be indicated not less than 0W-40, and not more than 0W-50. If you pour it into the engine in winter, at temperatures up to 40 degrees below zero, then the starter will have enough strength to turn the crankshaft, since the viscosity will not be too high, even despite the effects of cold. At the same time, even at lower temperatures, the liquid will not be taken by the ice crust.

When choosing engine oil for Niva 21214, in no case do not take all-weather. Although it seems economical in terms of cost to operating conditions, it can be problematic when starting the engine. It is best to pour, either winter or summer oil, depending on the season. Also, do not use semi-synthetic oil. No matter how expensive it was, its properties will always be inferior to synthetic ones.

Replacement frequency

It's no secret how the engine oil is replaced on a car. First, the engine should be warmed up to working temperature, then unscrew the filler neck, remove the oil filter, and unscrew drain plug... After the oil is completely drained, we change the filter, and then only new oil can be poured, having previously tightened the plug.

Oil change frequency on Niva - 10.000 km

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At the Niva 21214 engine, everything happens a little differently. Average mileage before changing the lubricant, it is usually about 10,000 km. Since the engine of an SUV is more often subjected to heavy loads, it is recommended to change the fluid approximately every 5-6 thousand kilometers.

Many motorists have a question: "Is it worth changing the filter after this procedure?" The answer will be individual for everyone. In general, a standard oil filter is designed for 10-12 thousand kilometers, therefore, it easily takes two fluid changes. But, if available money, the replacement will not be superfluous. If you change the filter every 5-6 thousand km, the engine will have a long life. So, decide this issue based on your financial capabilities.

Manufacturers

When choosing an engine oil, you often get lost, not knowing: "Which one to choose?" Over the long period of using cars, brands have appeared that are famous for their excellent product quality.

Today, the leaders of such brands are manufacturers: Mobil, Xado and Lukoil. They specialize in the production of lubricants for both passenger cars and SUVs. Of course, such oils are quite expensive, and not everyone can afford to pour them into their engine.

So, what kind of oil can you choose from cheaper analogues? Nowadays, the manufacturers: Castrol, ZIC, Kixx and Valvoline are gaining momentum in the world market rather quickly. Their products are not much inferior in quality to world brands, and are perfect for the Niva 21214 engine. Therefore, if you do not have much finances, you can safely use products from these manufacturers.

Many owners of cars, both domestic and foreign, often face the problem of jerking the car when pressing the gas pedal. There are many reasons for this behavior of the car. Therefore, we suggest further familiarizing yourself with the most common malfunctions that cause such jerks, as well as their symptoms and remedies.

1 Malfunction of fuel system sensors

A frequent cause of jerks when pressing the gas pedal is a malfunction of the TPS, especially this often happens in "VAZ" models. This sensor detects the position of the throttle valve. It is quite simple to identify its malfunction, thanks to the characteristic symptom - the car begins to "jump" during acceleration, even if the accelerator pedal is pressed very smoothly.

Most often as a result of TPS malfunction throttle remains in a slightly open position for a long time. When you press the gas pedal, the sensor does not immediately transmit a signal to the computer. As a result, the engine initially cannot change the operating mode, and then the fuel is supplied abruptly and in a large volume. As a result, the engine starts to "choke" and work in jerks, and sometimes even stalls.

There is only one way to solve the problem - to change the sensor. True, some car services offer controller repair. But, as practice shows, the repaired TPS serves no more than one or two months. Therefore, it is better to buy a new part right away. In the photo above, you can see the location of the TPS in a VAZ 2114 car.

Another sensor that causes the car to jerk when it fails is the air flow sensor (DFID). In the event of a breakdown, the engine starts to work unstable whenever the gas is pressed. As in the previous case, the problem is solved by replacing the sensor. Sometimes the problem is not the sensor itself, but the air duct (corrugation) that goes from the air filter to the engine. As a result of its depressurization, air can be leaked bypassing the sensor, which causes malfunctions in its operation.

Some cars jerk when accelerating to idling can occur as a result of failure of the crankshaft position sensor (DPKV), which is located near the oil pump. The photo below shows the location of the DPKV of the Priora car with the 21126 engine, i.e. having 16 valves.

To test the operation of this controller, you need to connect an oscilloscope to it. Smudged or barely noticeable pulses indicate that the sensor is really not working correctly. Please note that if it completely fails, the car stops starting altogether.

2 Problems in the fuel supply system

Often, the car starts to twitch when starting off and gaining speed as a result of lack of fuel in the float chamber. Most often, the malfunction manifests itself when the gas is pressed sharply. This is due to the fact that fuel is burned in the engine much faster than it enters the float chamber.

There are several reasons why such a situation may arise. As a rule, fuel interruptions occur as a result of a malfunction fuel pump... To resolve this issue, you can follow these steps:

1. Remove the pump cover.
2. Examine the surface of the cover. Replace the O-ring if necessary.
3. If chamber depressurization or other fuel injection problems are found, the worn parts must be replaced.

Most often, the fuel pump is located under the hood. However, on some vehicles, it may be located at the back. For example, in the VAZ 2110 and VAZ 2112 models, to access the fuel pump, you need to dismantle backseat and unscrew the cover, as shown in the photo below.

Sometimes the cause of all problems in the fuel supply system is trivial - the fuel filter is clogged. If it is not replaced in time, it can become clogged so much that the fuel supply will stop altogether and it will be impossible to start the car.

3 Malfunction in the mixture preparation unit

If the car dulls when accelerating and starts to twitch when the accelerator pedal is pressed sharply, it is quite possible that the malfunction lies in the mixture preparation unit, i.e. carburetor or injector. Most often this occurs as a result of clogged jets, air passages or nozzles. Car owners usually encounter a similar situation in the spring, after a long idle period of the car or after filling with low-quality fuel.

In some carburetor cars, for example, a VAZ 2109, you can correct the situation without even removing the carburetor. To do this, you just need to dismantle air filterlocated above the carburetor, and then purge all channels with a hand pump with a cone tip. It is advisable to carry out the work together, so that one person substitutes the tip to the canals and holds it, and the second, with sharp and powerful movements, works with the pump.

Of course, such manipulations will not give a 100% result, moreover, the situation will not improve for long. But if the problem happened on the road, blowing with a pump can really help out. For normal cleaning, you need to contact the service center, where specialists will wash the carburetor with a special agent. The situation is exactly the same with the injector: you can only remove blockages by flushing. Moreover, for this it is necessary to use special tool for injectors.

It should be carried out on a special stand that simulates the operation of the engine, therefore it is impossible to perform it independently.

4 We are looking for the reason in the electrician

Very often, the cause of the car jerking and slow acceleration is the engine "podtrika" due to faults in the ignition system. In this case, when you smoothly press the gas pedal, the problem is often not noticeable at all, but when pressed sharply, the engine seems to "choke". On high revs "punching" may not be felt either. In motion, jerks can occur only at certain speeds or when the car is moving uphill.

Most often, replacing candles helps in this situation. However, candles are not always the problem. Often, "podtraing" occurs due to problems with high-voltage wires that go from the distributor to the candles. You can identify a faulty wire simply by listening to the wiring while the engine is running. A wire that has a "breakdown" emits a characteristic clicking sound. In the dark, you can even see a spark. True, in some cases the wires fail asymptomatically, therefore, the faulty element can only be identified by alternately replacing the wires.

Sometimes the problem is not even caused by the wires themselves, but by the tips on the coils and candles. Accordingly, it is easily solved by replacing the tips.

These are all the common reasons why the car starts to twitch when you press the gas pedal sharply or even smoothly with your foot. If, after completing all the above steps, you did not manage to fix the problem, contact the service center, where specialists will perform computer diagnostics and determine the exact cause of the malfunction. Often, you get rid of jerks only after reflashing the on-board computer.

A working car is a guarantee of traffic safety on the road. However, unexpected disruptions during movement can cause special troubles. Such problems include a situation when the car jerks during acceleration, or there are interruptions when driving at low speeds.

The best way to get rid of surprises is prevention and correct diagnosis. With their help, you can do without expensive repairs.

It is difficult to carry out diagnostics with an unevenly running car that is idling. The correct solution would be to identify interruptions during its movement. For this, a straight-line section of the road without heavy traffic is selected.

While driving, turn on the gears one by one. At each included stage, we sharply depress the accelerator pedal. The power plant must be sensitive to all the efforts of the driver. In those cases, when the car jerks when you press the gas pedal or does it without any effort, then vehicle needs a closer inspection individual nodes... It all depends on the specific behavior of the car.

Intermittent movement during acceleration

Problems of uneven movement during a high-speed maneuver most often lie in the unstable flow of fuel into the float chamber. Gasoline is generated faster than it enters it. The supply of liquid to the gasoline pump is carried out intermittently.

You need to solve the problem by opening the fuel pump cover. We carry out a visual inspection of the hole with the valve. The seal is often out of place. This lack of sealing leads to a complication in the supply of gasoline to the system, because of this, the car jerks when driving. The necessary operation is to replace the valve and resume tight operation. If there is a seal on hand, then you can do it yourself.

Unstable movement at low speed

Troubles occurring while driving at low speed are the result of incorrect operation of the injectors. The culprit is also often a loose bundle of wires, which can fray if rubbed against fuel pipes while driving.

Bare wires are shorted to tubes. In this case, the injectors are disabled, and the stability of the injection suffers. If wires are the culprit behind the fact that the car jerks when driving at low speeds, then it is better to change the harness message. After replacement, you need to fix them on the body, to avoid the recurrence of the problem.

Instability is associated with pressing the accelerator

At a time when the driver "presses the gas", the car pulls, this may be due to the ineffective operation of the vacuum ignition angle regulator. This element is located in the distributor.

Since gasoline burns at the same speed, the driver seeks to increase the engine speed and presses on the pedal, the engine needs to ignite the air-fuel mixture faster. The work of the vacuum regulator begins just with an increase in speed above 1500-2000 rpm. The opening throttle valve simultaneously pulls off the bearing due to the resulting vacuum, which increases the ignition timing.

To diagnose the operation of the vacuum regulator, it is enough to remove the hose and seal it with your hand. You will hear how the suction effect works. When air enters inside, the vacuum is not formed, the tightness is broken, and when starting off, the car jerks.

Another culprit behind why the car jerks on the move is the accelerator pump spray. You can see the performance of the element after removing the diffusers. Then you need to press the lever and watch their work. Failure means that one of the unstable problems has been detected.

To repair the mechanism, you will need to dismantle it and remove the ball, clamping the lower side with pliers carefully so as not to deform the case. With the help of a compressor, we purge the channels and, having assembled it, we install it without gaps. The resulting gaps will lead to unwanted discharge. Correct operation and purge cleanliness is assessed by a long, straight jet.

A rare case with a diaphragm

A malfunction with the diaphragm of the accelerating pump is not detected so often. Only the spring remains in the structure, and its cover disappears. You have to make a homemade button from available tools. When such a problem is identified at the station, auto mechanics suggest completely changing the carburetor so as not to mess with trifles.

The culprit filters

When the car jerks when driving at low or high speeds, then it is necessary to remember how long ago the fuel filters changed. In diesel power plants, as a rule, put a pair: coarse and fine cleaning. The main trouble is the second.

Fuel filters

To identify the condition of the coarse filter, you can flip the fuel hose and blow through the mesh. In this case, the cap on the neck of the gas tank should be unscrewed. After a couple of days, we repeat the procedure. If the result is negative, care must be taken to clean the fine filter. Almost all foreign cars use disposable fine fuel filters. The procedure for adding a small amount of fuel to the filter will help to add efficiency after replacing it.

A clogged fine filter leads to unstable engine operation, but this car does not twitch. The motor often stalls or suffocates.

Spark test

Some cars start to jerk when descending or on some level areas if there is a problem with the contactless ignition system. A faulty switch located inside the structure can cause such consequences. Repair with this item is not carried out. You will have to completely replace the assembly.

Control unit monitoring

In some situations, car owners are advised to check the carburetor control unit. A characteristic feature of the occurrence of tremors is their random occurrence or poor predictability. You can send the car to a diagnostic stand at the nearest car service. There you can detect instability at idle, the appearance of jolts when you press the accelerator pedal and the formation of "floating" revolutions.

Carburetor control unit

Often for carburetor cars, the cause is identified in the carburetor control unit. It is practically impossible to independently diagnose this node "by ear" or by the consequences of the motor operation.

Conclusion

The emerging instability or intermittent operation of the car can in many cases be diagnosed and "cured" by yourself. This will cost significantly less than at the station. If you don't have enough experience, you can contact your friends or check several "suspicious" sites. It is not worth delaying the solution of the problem, since such unstable operation of the car negatively affects the rest of the nodes and general safety while driving.

A car malfunction can manifest itself in different ways, most often it is foreign noise, for example, a knock or creak. But, sometimes malfunctions have more noticeable symptoms, for example, the car may deviate from the course set by the driver or twitch when accelerating and gaining speed. In this article, we will consider the latter option, namely, why the car jerks when accelerating and what to do in such a situation.

All currently operated cars from gasoline engines equipped with either injector or carburetor power units. The second type of internal combustion engine is now considered almost "rare", but in Russia (especially in the provinces) there is still a lot of such equipment on the move. Therefore, consideration possible reasonsby which cars can twitch and accelerate in jerks, it makes sense to start with them.

Carburetor engines

These power units in comparison with more modern, injection, simpler in design, all of them " weak spots»Are well studied, and therefore it is not so difficult to find the reason for their unstable operation at the stage of starting and accelerating the car. Experienced mechanics with knowledge of the matter say that cars with a carburetor engine are most often twitched due to problems such as:

• Dirty fuel or air filter;
• Problems in the operation of the fuel pump;
• Fuel pressure regulator malfunction.

Thus, those owners of cars with carburetor engines, whose cars began to twitch when starting the engine and accelerating, should, first of all, check exactly those parts, components and assemblies that are listed above.

If it turns out that everything is in order with them, then you need to pay close attention to the ignition system. IN carburetor engines its malfunctions are also often causes of jerks. Practice shows that in cases where the car refuses to accelerate when the accelerator pedal is pressed (as the drivers say in their professional slang, it “fails”), it makes sense to check the ignition coil, as well as the high-voltage wires connected to it.

In fact, it often turns out that these parts begin to "pierce", and therefore the engine "troit". The solution to the problem in this case is to replace the defective part.

Another fairly common problem is banal soot in candles. It leads to the fact that the spark does not occur when it should (and sometimes does not occur at all), which leads to jerks during acceleration. The way out of this situation is to clean or replace the spark plugs.

Injection engines

Gasoline power units of this type are significantly better than carburetor ones, operational and specifications, however, their design is much more complicated. Accordingly, the reasons due to which the car can twitch during acceleration are much greater.

The main feature of the injection engine is that a special the electronic unit... Several sensors are involved in this process, namely:

• Throttle positions;
• Mass air flow;
• Provisions crankshaft.

Failure of any of them can be the reason that the car jerks when starting the engine and accelerating. It is interesting that in the event of serious problems with the crankshaft position sensor injection system often it turns off completely, and then it is generally impossible to start the engine.

It goes without saying that the reasons for jerking when accelerating cars equipped with injection engines can be the same as for carburetor engines, that is, filter clogs, problems with spark plugs, ignition coils and high-voltage wires, as well as elements fuel system (including clogged fuel injectors).

It should also be noted that one of the common reasons for the jerking of a car when starting the engine and accelerating is the use of low-quality fuel. As a result, a lean fuel mixture is formed, and the engine starts to work very unstable, in particular, jerks appear during acceleration. This applies equally to both carburetor and injection power units.

What to do if the car jerks when accelerating?

To accurately diagnose the cause of unstable performance gasoline engine internal combustion, expressed in jerking when starting and accelerating, first of all, you need to make sure exactly what is used quality fuel... It is necessary to check its density, octane number (the corresponding devices are now sold in specialized stores and are quite inexpensive). If it turns out that the reason for the jerks during overclocking is precisely the poor fuel, then it simply does not need to be used.

It is also necessary to check the air and fuel filters... The fact that they are contaminated is usually visible to the naked eye. The remedy is to replace these consumables with new ones.

To check the candles, you just need to remove them and subject them to visual inspection. If it turns out that there is carbon deposits on them, then it should be removed or simply replaced with new candles. As for the coils and high-voltage wires, then most often the cause of their malfunction is the oxidation of the contacts. To detect it, the easiest way is to use a multimeter and ring the circuit. Defective ignition coils and high-voltage wires should not be repaired, but replaced with new ones.

As for the sensors in injection engines, then a conventional oscilloscope is used to check them. If this component is functional, then the screen displays pulses indicating the operation of the injector. In cases where there are none or they have an irregular shape, the sensors should be replaced with new ones.

Video about jerking when overclocking